How To Buy A $500 Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2024
- #cheapcar #usedcar #debtfree4life
How I buy cheap used cars. No guarantees but for $500 I'll take a chance. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I have bought a few used cars for extremely cheap prices and some have lasted me years.
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This is crazy. In 2019 you're supposed to buy a $65K Tesla and live in it.
If I bought a Tesla I would be living in it.
Lol you smart ass
A Tesla Model 3 retails for $38k no rebate. After rebate ~$31k.
Shit that’s what I was doing till a cop got jealous of my “status” and falsely accused me of DUI and charged me with a felony lol 😂 it’s okay I’m gonna live in a lambo next b***h
Oh my....
Ha ha yeah Lambo 🙌
We sold a 5 yr gran prix in excellent condition for $200 to a young couple. They were so skeptical, naturally. They just didn't believe that we were actually trying to just give a young person a break. Then once the deal was made we just gave them the car and told them one day when they are older, do the same for some young couple starting out. It can make such an impact and if you can afford to do so, why not.
I agree with helping a couple out. However I think you should have taken a little money from them. May not be the case here but I find that if you pay up you have more respect and will take better care. But good on you for helping the couple out. I thought of the same thing that if I didn't need one of these cars I could give it to a person who could really use a break in their life.
I agree with your sentiment. My brother's first car was a old 1992 Buick Century and they were selling it for $600. The car had a dent on the bumper but other than that the car ran perfect. My brother asked if she would sell it for $500, and she replied and said how about $300? She was an older lady but she was so generous to drop the price which allowed my brother to be able to register the vehicle right away. Then my brother passed that car on to me and it became my first car.
That's so nice of you!
People like you are amazing sadly there isn’t enough people out there and I’m still trying to save and get a really good older car but I just thought I’d commit how amazing and heart felt that story was thank you again
@@UneducatedEconomistI do really need a beater car rn I currently walk 12 miles a day to work Monday through Friday
Super cheap cars. A man after my own heart. Picked up a non running 1999 Tacoma from a friend of a friend for 200 bucks that he was going to junk. 300 in parts to get it running and it's been solid ever since.
Awesome deal. Toyota is real a good vehicle to buy used. I've been very impressed on how mechanically sound they can be
@@UneducatedEconomist - Yep, if yer gonna buy used, Honda and Toyota are the very best there is!
My buddy bought a Courier for $125, put a head gasket it and drove it for 10 years. The stick transmission started making noises so he replaced the bearings for $50 and kept driving.
Yeah me too. I like the mid 90s cars. Latest is (couple of years ago) a 1 owner carport kept '94 Lexus ES 300, 156K miles with all maintenance records. 'It will just cut off once in awhile' owner said, so we just don't drive it much anymore, 'I'd rather drive the truck anyway'. Otherwise, engine sounded great, tranny great, drove great, nice car. I studied and learned that the ECM in those Toyota (94~96) cars had 'capacitors' that would 'leak', but an easy fix! There are many companies that repair these Electronic Control Modules. Pulled it out (under the glove box) sent it in and for $185, boom, repaired and I have driven the car for over 2 years 45k miles, this excellent car by Toyota and were designed to run 500k miles. I bought it for $2000 with the $2700 of repair receipts of recent work that was done to it! Buddy of mine has a little car shop and we do a little this and a little that once in a while together. Now retired, it's a great all around local beater car in great shape and compliments my used for cruising, '94 V8 Tbird (103k miles) very nicely and my garage kept very cool '89 E150 conversion camper van - (84k miles!) used for music festivals, and my trusty '75 F100 yard truck. I keep everything in a heated building on my 48 acres. Takes some work but its all good for the skills and use of the hands! Insurance, $14/month and no taxes in VA.
First 30 seconds of video: "I'm not a mechanic"
Rest of video: "Hold my beer"
🤣🤣🤣
Facts !
The key to a high net worth is to be willing to drive a crappy car.
Mark Wegner so true!
There was a Swedish billionaire drove an old volvo.
Living in a reasonable low cost area, not paying for fancy housing, etc. also help a LOT.
My $500 Camry had 200k on it when I bought it and it finally blew a head gasket at 500k. 32mpg and never broke down till now.
Camry's can be among the best. Corollas too. Mainly keep the oil changed and let someone who knows what they're doing check out key systems on occasion, and you're good. No guarantees, but statistically, it's a mighty good bet in my experience, once a mechanic has checked it out for problems.
Can't complain about it! Bought mine a manual Camry 200k for 3 grand hope it runs to 500k like yours .
I AM LITERALLY ABOUT TO BUY A $500 CAR. IT IS TIME TO APPLY THE KNOWLEDGE I LEARNED FROM THIS VIDEO INTO REALITY!!!
When I was a kid, I use to have a rusted Chevy Luv because that was all I could afford. My Great neighbor always use to tell me- Herb, 3rd class driving is better than 1st class walking. Lol
I walked to work many times
Uneducated economist educating all of us.
the timing belt vs timing chain thing, it's more important to check if it's an interference type motor or non interference. If the belt snaps on a non interference motor, it won't cause catastrophic damage, where as an interference engine it will.
Great video..... even if the engine blows, you can pick up a used engine under $500, have it installed under $1k and drive until the wheels fall off..... my thing is 4 every grand I spend I need to drive it at least 1.5 years.... I always come out on top.
Got an 07 accord, needs a motor with fresher gaskets and seals, and good compression. Knowing where to look is key and knowing the experienced people to bargain with in doing the work. If you're close enough to them, you could be able to help in the process too. Thinking in detail with this process can be a huge money saver. As far as mine goes, I'll drive it until It can't go like it should. And even past, if it's just plugs.
The average age of my cars is 15 years. I do all my own work and will never finance again.
About the timing chain or timing belt, either one will break the engine if it fails. Instead find out if it is "an interference or non interference engine". An interference engine, whether it has a chain or a belt, will break the engine when the chain or belt fails. A non interference engine, whether it has a chain or a belt, will not break the engine when the chain or belt fails. The problem is that very very very few vehicles these days are non-interference engines. It is a mistake to based your purchase on whether the engine has a chain or a belt. Many manufactures will tell you that this or that car has a chain and that it is good for the life of the vehicle... BUT the chain tensioner is not (although some are self-tensioning and hydraulic, still needs to be replaced, and if you are inside the engine changing the tensioner then might as well change the chain too) and you still have to open that engine to replace it. Even if they tell you that the chain is good for the life of the engine do know that if it breaks it will ruin the engine if it is an "interference engine". Non-interference engines were more common in the 80s and 90s, but rare today and if you find one it's usually a big truck or a very expensive model. Now, that being said, it is easier to change a timing belt than a chain. The belt is outside the engine and the chain is inside the engine. Either way, older cars are easier to change the timing belts. Just google "List of Cars with Non-Interference Engines" and see for yourself. Nissan does not make a single car with non-interference engine. Subaru only has on non-interference engine. Toyota has a few but that engine might not be inside the car you may be interested on. Oh, yes, when buying a car you must check the engine model to know if it is interference or non-interference.
this is a certified hood classic
Yes. I've been told this by mechanics I liked. That was an example of why they tended to like certain Toyotas as a reliable car.
Another example of why changing the oil a lot is helpful. When my first Toyota had 100K miles, I had them check the timing chain, because the service manual said it can wear out. It was in such good shape, the service manager asked me if I'd had it changed previously.
I told him no, and verified it was relatively expensive and took hours, so I'd have noticed. Then he asked me how often I changed the oil. When I told him every 3000 miles like clockwork he looked at the technician and said, "See. People are just INSANE not to keep their oil changed."
Always have either a 125cc Honda or a 125cc hn Suzuki in the garage as a back up vehicle. If fuel goes up a full tank gets you 300miles.
scion ia gets 340 miles on 15 dollars of 2.45 dollars/gallon gas
Get in an accident, you die . Nope
Who else will be on the road but those with similar vehicles, when the price of gas skyrockets.@@Chevy-hw6lw
that ceiling liner is holding on for dear life
We still drive our 99 Honda civic, it still runs good! Love it!
Great tips!! I sold my big truck last year. Costing me 1k per month. Have never felt more free. Good fortune came my way and my sis sold me her car for 1 dollar. Good stuff happens on occasion!!
Yes, good stuff does happen on occasion
It's liberating! I just sold my car too
Simon,
Buying a car is one of the toughest things to do: buy or lease? It appears no matter what I do it is a loss for me.
However, I purchased a 2001 Toyota two years ago. The owner was an old lady that went into a nursing home. It had 85,000 miles on it. I paid $2,250 in Michigan. My wife and I have another car, but everyone in my family has borrowed the Toyota when their cars have been in for repairs. Two years later, new brakes and a new radiator, it is paid for and it just keeps running!
Your video was the best! You are appreciated!
David/Michigan
Glad to see you're not putting yourself back into debt by buying a horrendously pricey new car. Great tips. Buying good used cars saves a lot of money!
I haven't paid more than $1500 for a car in a long time. Too many cars out there.
I've got 3 fully functional vehicles over 10 years 100K miles now. DIY repair/maintenance. Values are 3k, 6k, and 9k. If any of them get smashed up I would not be overly concerned. That piece of mind is worth it and I choose to drive lower value vehicles. I'm a millionaire BTW. Just the savings on taxes for tabs over newer cars is several thousand a year. Not to mention insurance.
Just came across your videos on driving an old car. You have very good advice on developing a frugal habit as well as the benefits of driving an older car if you need to save money. I have paid cash for cars in the past but they were not well made. After some ups and downs I began to research my next car that I would pay cash for. Long story short after waiting and taking the bus I decided to take another look at the used car dealer website and I found a Toyota. A 1999 Toyota Camry. The amount of stress relieved by not having a car payment has just been wonderful. Once a year I have to make a repair. It averages out to about $20 a month. I am low-income and am recovering from the pandemic. My next car will be a Toyota and if I have to finance it I know it will be a reliable car and I can afford to do it. 👍
Very good video. Make sure they try reverse too. Seen a number of cars that were good all around......but no reverse. When it comes to timing belts, older toyota/nissans are pretty easy to change, no special tools. The key is to make sure the engine is a "non-interference" engine. So if the belt does break, the pistons and valves won't touch. Outside of that, very good video. 👍
Like I said I'm no mechanic. Thanks for helping clarify.
Exactly the things I make sure of with used cars. If it does have a belt just make sure it’s not an “interference “ engine. Those are the designs where the piston hits the valve when the belt breaks.
That was the term "interference"
Picked up an '03 Toyota Tacoma with 200,000 that got sideswiped and had an issue with the automatic windows for $600. Looked like a blister, but two years later that Tacoma has 320K on the odometer and still running great!
great video. paid $100 for my first car 50 years ago & you gave lots of good tips. a new car is usually the worst "investment" you will ever make,but i have been doing it myself for the past 25 years but i do pay cash & keep them 6-7 years.
If you could maintain them and keep them twice as long, that would be reasonably frugal.
I bought 1993 Toyota camry in September this year very cheap. The thing is smooth and very nice to drive. Power steering, aircon, cranking windows, central locking, and a 5 speed manual. It does have a belt, but I'll change it myself, very easy.
Those early 90's Camrys were bullet proof back in the day and highly sought after for years. A friend of mine drove a 1991 Toyota Paseo I gave him in 2005, until he died in 2022. He didn't drive it a lot, but it just kept running and running with little work. The main issue he had was finding parts like exhaust parts once it was over 20 years old.
Plus if it's cheap enough and a mechanic has checked out the obvious, it's not like you're taking much risk.
Under the Oil cap is a good place to check, along with radiator cap - look for crud. Of course good tires and brakes are most important Check heating system (ie defrost). But most cars engine trans are not the issue, electrical is the issue.)
I've done this for years. I got fed up buying newer cars that only ever gave problems. I picked up a 2005 Passat TDi with 130k miles on it, in black, with full leather interior for £250 18 months ago. Needed a little bit of work and a good detail. Total outlay was £500 including buying it. I was offered £2300 for it but it's just too good to sell.
And before that I had a 2002 Passat TDi Estate which cost me £160. Fixed a coolant issue and drove it for 5 years. Still have it and it's still roadworthy
I'm an old person and have a 2003 Jeep Liberty with 53k miles. So I think you're right about the old people.
I know when I was younger I drove a lot more.
My advice as a mechanic.. don’t buy a clunker unless you can fix it yourself. Don’t believe me, call a shop and ask what hourly rates are. You still gotta maintain Toyotas as reliable as they are!
It tells a massive story that you've so few views on this video compared to your others.
People seek good information but they don't want to put it into practice.
My 20 year old Mercedes SLK cost £2000 when I got it almost 5 years ago. I could get £2000 for it still today.
Humility requires action, not just knowledge seeking. People want to learn all the right stuff, but when it comes down to it most still get a new car on finance.
Great upload 👍🏼
The days of the $500 runner is long gone. It seems like everyone wants $2k for the mechanic special nowadays.
awesome I do the same thing . new cars are a big waist of money . I haven't had a car payment in over 20 yrs and its very freeing .
I found a 2002 lxe camry v6 it was for 1k i asked the guy can you do less he said give me $100 coz he noticed am a new immigrant with new baby expected soon, what a noble man! Car was great i fixed it for $600. Great video bro
I agree with most of the advice in this video. One thing; different vehicles have different procedures for checking the automatic transmission fluid, so be sure to check the manual for that specific vehicle. Also, timing belts; most home mechanics can change a timing belt with a decent set of tools and some help from TH-cam, if they’re careful. Lastly, if you’re only paying $500-$750 for a vehicle, go ahead and pay a good local mechanic $100 to do a pre-purchase inspection. He’ll be able to spot a “do not buy” vehicle for you. Again, good video and advice; car payments are stupid!
I also wouldn't completely discard all timing belt cars. My tacoma is a non-interfearance engine so if the belt snaps, you just have to get it towed and re-timed and it's good to go again.
I'm not a mechanic I ownd a sporting goods store for almost a decade.... However my father was a mechanic for almost 30 years... You're absolutely right about checking a car over and interference engines.however what I would add is that you can buy a car that will last close to five years for about $3,000... When you get into the $5,000 range you can find a really really nicenice cars that will last you more than 5 years sometimes 8 or 10.I know that sounds high but we live very ruraly and sometimes have to drive up to an hour to work...You don't want to pay much for a car but you do want to get to work LOL. if your local in town and you just need an old beater I agree with everything you said five hundred bucks works... If you're in the middle of Wyoming and you have to drive an hour to work I suggest you started around the $3,000 range..... Also if you can buya stick shift it eliminates much of your transmission problems and will last two or three times longer than an automatic. As usual great video! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the advice on traveling distance. You are right about that. I'll be driving this little Toyota for about 12 minutes a day total.
Interesting, what good cars would be considered in the 5k + range? Im willing to spend more than 5k but less than 8k, for an suv or larger vehicle not a compact vehicle.
Good choice with it being a Toyota. Jesus. i'm jelly.
This dude's advice is gold.
That 99 Corolla is possibly the best car ever made!!!
What makes it the best car ever made ? I'm asking because I'm seriously considering getting one . Thanks .
I've gotten cars for free in the past. Many years ago, I was looking for an 80's Camaro. I called about one I saw in an ad, so I went to go look at it. I ended up going to the wrong house, but they had a Camaro similar to the year I went to go look at. Well they just wanted to get rid of it. So I got it for free. Long story short, after checking it out I found that it just wasn't worth putting any money into it. So, I sold it to the local junk yard for $600. I didn't keep it long enough to register it, so I was $600 positive on the whole deal. I did end up buying the other one for $500 dollars, which was in good condition, a blue 1985 IROC Z. It also needed some repairs, so it didn't turn out to be such a good deal. I ended up selling it not long after.
Buying cheap cars needless to say is a gamble, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. It really depends on how well the car was taken care of. So you really gotta check it out before you buy.
@financeeconomics1057 - your long story has already been covered by the video. Cheap cars are a dice roll ... sometimes a win ... sometimes a loss.
$500 is a great price. Paid for is even better. Good ideas. I once had to replace a timing belt. I got super lucky according to the mechanic. I got some other things done, but I paid way more than $500. Every used car I ever bought since I have a mechanic check it out. Great tips.
Cars with timing belts are good if they have a non interference engine. With non interference engines you won't have to worry about pistons blowing the engine if the timing belt breaks. Just keep a spare timing belt in your car and replace it if it breaks and the engine should be fine.
Awesome video I buy and sell cars as a side hustle. There are some great used cars out there. It’s insane that some zombified sheeple pay 60k + for a new car. Did a video on the upcoming Carmageddon...
4 years ago I bought a 1995 ram 4x4 . For o$ 2500 added a $200 camper shell . Great truck .
Ford taurus pre owned by old woman, done it. 5 hundo. Have had beat up old metro, del sol, elite ch80 scooter, then no vehicle for a while walking to work, a ranger...well that one was pretty nice but a 96. Recently the man bought an f350 with a dump bed, he's workin that home depot referral with me in the home office. Best financial sitch yet, esp w the future in mind. I used to work web dev/tech on a w2 and I'd rather chew glass than do it again. Anyway yeah, financing new cars is for suckers no matter how much money you have.
The key 2 not getting ripped on a used car is to ALWAYS have a backup...... its nothing worse than having a car break down and you can't fix it or worse you NEED another vehicle ASAP..... that's the quickest way to overpay.
Absolutely. No better way to overpay then to be desperate.
If you want to go the luxury route I highly recommend the timeless Lexus LS400. Just as reliable as an econobox 4 banger beater, but you’ll actually enjoy driving it.
It was senior owned and had the timing belt done right before I bought it.
For RWD vehicles (and Subarus) changing the timing belt is generally doable for most DIYers.
No joke, I was witness to a competition in this vain.
About ten years ago I worked with two guys who got me onto this idea. They were very smart guys, self-reliant, etc. They actually contested who could by the best value used vehicle at a super low price and use it as a DD. The first dude bought a 1994 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 and a stick shift with 160,000 miles. The other dude bought (I forget the year, but I'm in the right age range) I think a 1994/1995 FORD F-150 that had the 300 I6 and it had over 700,000 miles on it!!! Last I knew, they still had them going strong.
Never laugh at the people driving old cars who have no debts. They're ahead of you.
@platinumuschannel - re: "No joke" = 1. do you usually start off sentences with that wimpy "No joke" routine?? 2. or are you a "jokester" in daily life, causing others to wait for the "no joke" line. 3. ehhh?
No joke is just a phrase. Calm down people just like to use it.
vein
That's a hell of a lot more sensible competition than the normal "Who can buy the most expensive car to waste money by showing off in" that so many engage in while they DON'T save enough money toward retirement.
It's not what you drive that matters, but rather what drives you!
@binladen2739 - what would we's all do without reading your clever witticisms that have no meaning.
Buy a beater, make $200 a month payments to yourself.
My car maths, pay cash, say $1200, drop another $1000 in it now you are up to $2400. If the car lasts 12months you have invested $200 a month, a year, $100 a month. Two years $50 a month, less than a per month public transit pass. If you paid yourself $200 a month in a year you could have bought a backup beater. Two is one and one is none. I have a truck I paid $2000 for a decade ago that drove me to work today. It has cost me $17 a month before repairs. Even if I added all the repairs (I don't count tires, breaks, batteries, wants) I am at $25. Full disclosure I work on it myself. That is why I have two beaters in case one isn't road worthy. I don't have to panic or make expensive decisions because "I need my car".
Excellent post! I couldn't agree with you more. I haven't had a car payment since the 2008/9 crash. Began to get out of debt then-by purchasing other people's vehicles who could afford to maintain the car I bought from them. includes all the receipts, history-accidents or not etc. Passed along one of them to my son-who will maintain it for another 100k haha. I do not understand why people all have these 600 per month car payments. :(
*great tips-thanks.
I would like a new truck. But I want to make sound investments. I can't do both. I don't understand it either. Watched a kid pull up to the gas pumps in a jacked up Chevy. When he stopped the truck it dropped about 4 inches. Kid jumps out of his fancy truck and puts $20 in the tank. I thought to myself "well you can make the payments but you can hardly put gas in it....nice truck kid".
Uneducated Mechanic
Lol good one
Smart man. I got caught up in the materialistic world and have me a 40k truck. But I do have my daily beater 02 Ford Ranger to save on fuel.
The best kind of car is a paid for car! Good on you!
Thank you
On cold starts listen for knocks (bottom of the engine) and/or rattles (front of the engine) both of which would normally die down after a few seconds when oil circulates. If you hear either probably best to walk away as former is possibly bottom end / crank problems and latter is likely slack timing chain.
Paid for is so good! Hubs is an auto body dude. I have always driven sweet car's with rebuilt title's. Just sold my 2000 Acura TL. Purchased in 02 and was totaled. Sweet car....btw...please watch Ron Paul on YT. Talking about super inflation via monatary stupidity from the fed. collapse of dollar is coming. Love this man as he is so easy to understand. Most underrated and savy ex politician! He has been warning us for years and crickets.....get out of debt peeps!!!! You don't need that brand new car!
So true about the timing belt...I replaced the TL's belt at 90k. The mechanic spray painted a date on the cover of something saying when belt was changed. It was about $700 to replace...UE...ur spot on..,a guy your age bought my little old lady V6....lol
Oh ....and the Fed... commiting treason and Trump is puty in their hands. Grrrr......
Looks like the car salesmen gave you your only thumbs down.
Ron paul been cry wolf for long
Long
Time
Ron paul a broke back windup clock
“If you’re looking at a vehicle that someone is selling for 500,000 dolla-“
😂
I think your car is awesome! I hope you take it to it’s limits, bud!
Same way bro. I drive a beaten up 2000 Toyota Corolla. I repair things here and there and save alot of money. Best investment ever.
Just paid off my 2015 Nissan Versa last month. It’s a great feeling when it’s yours free and clear.
Great tip on the timing chain. This is why I love Toyota and they're super easy to work on.
With all the darn stimulus money floating around, it is tough to find a good used car for $3k - $5k at this point. I'd call that "inflation", but you may disagree ;)
I love timing belts tbh but I'm able / willing to do a bit more to my vehicles. Especially Toyotas with belts. Another thing you could do is get a non interference engine the timing belt snaps it wont mess anything up. If you replace the belt go with a gates, the metal core in them is superior by a lot. Also some cars water pumps, like the Aveo could cause timing belt issue so you want to do the water pump as well. Sometimes if the oil cap is all white it could merely just need a PCV valve which is a $10 easy fix for some rigs, it's hard to tell but look for antifreeze signs in oil & in reservoir check for exhaust smell(which means HG not PCV). My thoughts are unless you have a hole in the block or a severely bent up frame you can actually save most cars. Watch some YT videos on how to fix the specific issue that is wrong. Follow gravity / oil flow paths to the leak, replace or repair the seal.
Also generally studying how to fix each issue on cars over time will familiarize yourself with how a lot of engines work. Stick with a 4cyl engine, less gas, less parts needed to repair & get back on the road also Manual with crank windows is ideal, the less strain on the battery system the less likely to break down.
You were ahead of the times bro. Great advice.
Great advice. I drive an old beater that runs well and it saves me a lot of money. Also I would ask the guy if the brakes are good with some lining left.
"What old people drive" in the GTA its nothinh but Mercedes and Bmers 😂
I buy from the southern states. I do a car history search (carfax or similar) and make sure it has always been in a salt free state. As for timing belts you are spot on. I can change timing belts. If you do know how to change timing belts consider the cost of the parts. I would avoid Subaru or anything with timing belt driven water pumps. The parts alone can cost $500.
I find I can get 5 to 7 years out of Elantras in the 2500 to 4000 parts range. If you can drive standard or learn how to drive standard then you can get a low mileage standard Elantra under 3000. The last one cost me $2550 from Florida, and about $1000 to ship it. I did a brake job on it, and about 10000 miles in the timing belt ($35), and I knew when it was from the carfax type vehicle report.
Also I if you live in a road salt area, examine vehicles of a similar make and work out where the rust starts to show first. Then always examine in that area before purchase. Elantras always show oxidation on the brackets that hold the radiator on. If you see rust there then expect that rust will show up in the next few years in other places.
I bought a $500 2003 ford taurus for my gf last february. It was about an hour outside of the city so nobody really jumped on it. We picked it up with a uhaul tow dolley bc my friend worked for them at the time, so we just took it at night for free and towed it back so we didn't have to worry about it breaking down. Anyways I got there and did a quick drive and it was fine... it did smoke some coolant in the engine bay a bit but that hasn't really been an issue luckily. The main issue was it bogs down and stalls out kind of randomly, usually after a quick accelleration. But yea it was just a kid dumping the car because he wanted something better. The interior was in really great shape. It was a salvage title with exterior dents.
Once we got it home we got it inspected and it failed for a ball joint and exhaust leak, so I paid the shop $60 to fix the exhaust leak and I spent about another $100 or so on parts and tools to replace the heavily rusted ball joint. Passed inspection and ran fine for the past 8 months for short trips around town. It has started to get worse though with the accelleration issue, so I just spent $80 bucks on a fuel pump and replaced it, it's pretty easy on the tauruses. Should be good to go.
Best part is my gf loves it! Well besides the accelleration issue haha.
Overall I would say this dude has really good points for this. I definitely should have checked more things, like he mentioned.
You can get one more and alternate when/If you need to fix it. Might even be same brand, model and year so that you can use parts on the other one.
Here is some news for people that buy $4k-$5k vehicles. I used to detail cars. They would buy them for $1200-$1800 at auction. We would polish the crap out of the paint and hide the swirls with glaze. If you have single stage paint, we just removed the UV resistant layer because we polished so hard. Once the glaze wears off, it won't be so shiny.
If there was undercoating protecting the engine bay, it gets removed to show how shiny the now unprotected engine bay is. If there was any rusty looking areas in the wheel wells, it was covered with spray on rubberized rock guard.
On old cheap American cars with plush velour interior, we would spray the doors or stains on the seat with a pressure washer. I removed really tough interior grease stains with engine degreaser mixed with carpet cleaner and hot water. If you used the carpet extractor on the roof liner, it would fall down just like the one in the video after a year or so.
Would I drive a beater car? Maybe. Can I take care of a beater car? You bet. Every POS car from the late 70s and throughout the 80s was a beater car right off the showroom floor. After 80k the cars were thrown away., Engine issues, emission parts failure, carburetor issues, rust, half the electronics and electrical stuff in the car didn't work after a few years. Fancy American cars meant nothing. How many of them had clocks in the dash that broke, warped rotors, squealing belts and heater blowers, failed defroster lines, broken door handles, doors that are sagging. lights not working and the list goes on., This trained folks to buy new cars every five years of face the consequences.
Right now I do drive a luxury car but I paid my dues, worked a lot, invested my money and now it's time. The only comfort my luxury car doesn't have is the security of knowing that if I broke down, the car could be fixed with my onboard tool kit.
Coat hanger, duct tape, a hammer, zip ties, a bent flat blade screwdriver (with paint spatter), vice grips and some various hose clamps and a road map. Back in the day, no cellphones (or reception) for hours of driving. I HAVE broken down in b@ttf@#K nowhere at 2;30AM on my way back from Oklahoma and gotten out of a jam and made it home and I don't even live in the USA.
Just ran into this older video. I am stressed about how to buy a used cheaper car for my teen next year. Thanks for the video
Great video!
Also!!! Look at the underside of the car/truck!!! I almost bought a car, but got down and looked at the underside of the car...lots of transmission fluid the length of the car. Stay away from steam cleaned engines!
Good Old School Knowledge in THIS One!
I have a 2011 Ford Taurus that used to be owned by Florida snowbirds who had it regularly maintained.
Good stuff ! I agree- 2 things I look for when buying a car are that they have a timing chain and are manual transmission (especially if it’s European) I don’t trust automatic transmissions on them. If properly taken care of, a VW can last you a good 8-10 years.
Smart and f- automatics my 96 tercel 35mpg and never fails
been driving cheap cars my whole life and have learned to fix things myself for cheap as they came up or have found mechanics that do work for cheap . New cars are such a waste of money and lose value so fast . Plus everyone i know who has a new one always says they are broke because of car payments and higher insurance payments
Brother, I killed myself to be a 6fig earner. I exclusively drive used cars. Someone else pays the premium, shipment fee, and the instant 20% depreciation. the mechanic my charge 500 for something I don't want to waste my time on, but it's not $500 a month!
I did one better
500.00 ford ranger pickup with canopy
1997 2.3 liter
5 speed
204000 miles
Runs like timex watch
The one important thing about buying that $500 car is that you'll be much better when you just simply accept there is - or soon is - something to be repaired no matter how carefully you looked the car through, nobody expects a perfect car with that price. The best situation for you would be that if you have some skills to repair or maintenance some parts of the car, that the car you are buying, doesn't have other problems than just what you can actually do yourself.
If the problems are fixable by just using some hand tools and some $5-$20 part to be replaced, that's much easier than repairing some moderate rust problems requiring cutting and welding, they are often like rabbits nest, just a small hole on the surface but soon you find lots more problems when looking deeper.
If you want to keep it affordable, you want to make sure the car doesn't have too much expensive parts which are known to break every now and then, too much electronic fancy gadgets - including things like motorized windows - can end up being a money pit.
Got a Toyota Corolla estate, with 135,000miles. With timing chain. I've replaced the exhaust & have new break's. They have some gearbox problems but have added a reconditioned gearbox & new clutch. The fords have been good but engines have some issues over 100,000miles.
Check out your local small town auto repair shops. Often an older car will fail inspection for brakes/ exhaust or tires. Negotiate a cheap "as is" CASH price. The owner is probably going to get a new car anyways. And the shop knows the car`s history. Buy the necessary parts and fix the car yourself. No bank, no payments.
You beat me at my 1k 1999 Jeep Sport Cherokee Damn you. Still running like a 2 time World Champion. But mine is 4x4 lol
I also have a 99 ford F150. Starts and runs fine but the thing only goes about 35 mph comfortably after that it's a hell of a scary ride....my sister drives it to work. $500 I paid for it about a year ago. Put a starter and new battery in it. If 35mph is all she can do that's fine just leave a few minutes earlier. Right sis. Lol
@@UneducatedEconomist I haven't done anything with the Jeep except change the oil over a year now. Smart Buying depreciating asset good job Bro.
Yep go cheap, leaves more funds for prepping !!!
I have a Chevy 1993 5.7 liter half ton, 4x4, new engine and transmission in it and new other parts overall cost right know 8k-10k. And some things still need to be replaced but love my truck
I envy those that have cars that are cheaper than a higher end bicycle.
My dad was the CEO of his cancer detection company and drove around in a rusted car. My car is almost 20 years old and runs. As long as it works it’s good. 👍
I’m of two minds about beaters: Yes, car payments are stupid and worrying about the condition of a nice car will drain your soul. But keeping an old car running is also a drain on your time when you could invest that time in earning more income which allows you to buy, among many things, a dependable, low maintenance vehicle. So I think beaters are a good idea when you’re just getting started in life but something to transition out of as you earn more. Thanks for the video!
At $500 I wouldn't be to worried about a timing belt. If it breaks after a year or two you are not out much and can probably sell it for close to what you paid for it.
Timing belt - those engines in the mid 90s - such as the Honda Accord used - were known as 'interference' engines - other words, if the belt breaks, contact between piston and valves IS possible. Conversely, 'non interference' engines, such as the 3.0 FE engine by Toyota, will not self destruct with a belt breakage. Good advice UE.
Well I think getting a car for $500 is always a good deal if the car is known to be of good quality in the past. I just bought a 1994 Acura Vigor with apx 170,000 miles for $500. This was owned by an old woman and then an old man. It was sitting for a while but I have one just like it. That one got hit about a month ago. So I got this one to fix and drive. If you have a decent mechanic or can work on it yourself. It’s not a bad thing to do. I have a new timing belt and water pump to put in it which I bought for the one that got hit. I’ve put in 250 so far but for the fact that I have one already, I cannot loose if I parts it out either. They don’t make these anymore and mines that got hit i have for 19yrs, 361,000 miles. My biggest thing is the person who hit me don’t have coverage and that pissed me off.
Timing chain is 💯. I have 3 Toyotas. All timing chains. All great. 2003 Corolla with 89k. 2006 Tacoma with 310k. 2013 Sienna with 76k. Cheap used cars forever!
My van was only cheap because we bought it in 2020 right before things got crazy in the car market 😂
Mercury Grand Marquis. Rear wheel drive. Easier. A tank. ... Remove oil fill while running ... no smoke is good, smoke = bad valves. ... no pull to right/left with hands off at highway speed ... alignment, front end.
One of your best.
Nice! I’m taken my chances too for the really used car. The title says it all on TH-cam thumb nail :)
Seems like cars can get to be such a pain for the owner, they will drop the price just to get rid of it. Your patience with fixing easy things can be a big win. I had a Fiero that burst a water hose and I swear it looked like the car was on fire. Towing was a pain, and being a wage slave, I had to get to work on Monday. This was before internet and Uber. Bang, somebody else's treasure for dirt cheap. Not sure how anybody gives away a decent car today. Prices are so high, and .. Carvana will come do a deal in your driveway.
Im a total car noob but from my experience anything cant beat Mercedes 190D. Bought it for 2500$ 10 years ago and still using it like a new. And its 30 years old, just like me. And its my first car and ill try to make it my last as well hah, if he can handle of course.
Just did the headliner on my 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ. Daily driver.
Chances are with that Corolla you could see some oil consumption, maybe even towards excessive. If that's the case, get a bottle of Sea Foam, put it in the crankcase and about 500 miles later give it an oil change. Also if it's using oil, put in Mobil 1 15w-50. If you do both your consumption should diminish significantly.
Luckily I'm driving for about 12 minutes a day total. But will definitely check the oil often
Fantastic video. Incredible value. Thx for sharing ur philosophy and experience with used cars. I'm going to draw up a list with every point u made. Thx so much!
I paid 900 for my 1999 P71 Crown Vic.... Had 98k on the odometer and is pushing 160k now..
Very possibly the best vehicle ever made. I've put 500k on one and even seen one mad lad squeeze 900k out of another.
900k? Wow the only vehicle I've seen with that many was an old ford diesel farm truck. In fact I think it's still going.
@@danmslacker6782 p71 is the best vehicle.
@@jaredstieg4238 you're quite right. I should have been more specific. But when I think Vic's I just assume P71.
@@danmslacker6782 oh of course is there any other. Most definitely it's a P71
Really good segment.
Thank you
Interesting about the timing chain/belt. Thank you for the info 🙏
run your finger on the inside of tail pipe, see if it's smutty from burning oil, if it is white, or not real sooty, it doesn't burn oil. look at the break pedal, and see how bad the rubber is worn (city miles) good rubber on break, highway miles.
Interesting brake pedal wear? Hadn't thought of that one.
I drive a 1992 Honda accord again for 400$ drove it for 7yrs, currently driving a 2006 CRv paid 800 and invested 400 in radiator condenser core support 5yrs on the road …
I have a ford Taurus too bought it with 73k miles on it in 2021.
Look to see if there are any oily leak spots on the engine? I see you haven't met the Toyota 1MZ engine. That thing leaks everywhere all the time but runs great.