You have made a great video of this process. I have been out of the inspection department job since 96, so this was a great refresher course. I have a nice hobby machine shop now that I am retired. But like all skills, if you don't use it, you tend to lose it, or at least need some catching up. Thanks again!
...only just found your channel and it’s very interesting. This is a prime example of how the internet and television can and should be used for sharing experiences and educating ourselves. It reminds me of my college days although I never got to become a machinist...never mind. Thank you Mr Machingmoments!
When I worked at precision grinding I used Joe blocks every day,They were sent to the standard room every 6 months for calibration.I worked to very tight tolerance +- 0.0001 With a 2 - 4 micro finish.
My apologies if I misunderstood, I sometimes find post messages hard to interpret. Sine=opposite ÷hypotinuse. We have the angle (in Degrees, Minutes,Seconds), the opposite will be the blocks we need for the buildup, the hypotenuse in 5” (center distance of the wheels). So moving the formula around 30(dms)50(dms)12(dms)(enter Sine(depending on your calculator))X5 enter(=) should give you 2.5629”. If you prefer 30D50M12S = 30.8366dd. I hope this helps, thanks for your post!
That is an option and as with anything there are limitations. Some kits have two .050 wear blocks. Sometimes wear blocks are not used but this is not good practice.Thanks for your post.
Nice video. Don't pay any mind to the over critical. If you were woking in a sterile enviroment in a clean room, then yes, gloves and alcohol are the right choice. But for normal use on the floor, I was taught the way you just showed. Wring the blocks together after rubbing on the back of hand to ensure a friction fit, and get on with it. When finished for the day, I always cleaned with alcohol, then rub them down with a clean oil dampened cloth (3-in-1 oil) to get a film on them
You will notice I use the back of my hand which does not have the same oil issue as the palm. If you are going to use cotton gloves beware of lint. Rust only becomes an issue if the blocks are left wrung together after use rather than taken apart, cleaned properly, and put away. The acids in your hands will rust the blocks.
This is specalized equippment used in a course I teach. If you don't get it don't worry most people won't use it. If you would like to understand please send me a note letting me know what I can help you with.
@florisjanpietster, You don't machine against a sine bar. You use it in conjunction with a dial gauge to set the angle of the workpiece in a rotary stage or by setting the table angle or head angle on the mil. It's just a more precise and repeatable way to do that than using the graduated scale on a geared rotary stage.
machiningmoments We studied this in course but lecturer never told us how to measure angle and we need to remove air before stacking. Thank you..... BTW Cody labs did video on how the blocks are joined together and even when there was no air, it stuck
machiningmoments, thanks indeed for the enlighting video. Perhaps it´s worth mentioning that the blocks shouldn´t be left longer than necessary stuck one to another as their absolute even surfaces cause kind of a welding effect between them, making it impossible to separate them again.
How can you ensure the gage blocks are clean when you have oils from your hands being transfered to the blocks? Use CLEAN cotton gloves to handle the blocks and use a lint free wipe and alcohol to clean them. This methodology will ensure that your gage blocks will not rust!! If your going to teach people how to do something, please ensure you are training them PROPERLY!!!
![fellow fellow - PROUD feat. INK WARUNTORN [STRING QUARTET]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BQrVkMPTdHE/mqdefault.jpg)
You have made a great video of this process. I have been out of the inspection department job since 96, so this was a great refresher course. I have a nice hobby machine shop now that I am retired. But like all skills, if you don't use it, you tend to lose it, or at least need some catching up. Thanks again!
I like how you show the breakdown for deciding on gauge block combination. Very linear and logical.
I'm glad to hear it worked for you, always appreciate feedback! Thanks for stopping by.
...only just found your channel and it’s very interesting. This is a prime example of how the internet and television can and should be used for sharing experiences and educating ourselves. It reminds me of my college days although I never got to become a machinist...never mind. Thank you Mr Machingmoments!
Thank you, glad you are here!
When I worked at precision grinding I used Joe blocks every day,They were sent to the standard room every 6 months for calibration.I worked to very tight tolerance +- 0.0001 With a 2 - 4 micro finish.
Thank you, always appreciate the comments. Thanks for posting!
My apologies if I misunderstood, I sometimes find post messages hard to interpret. Sine=opposite ÷hypotinuse. We have the angle (in Degrees, Minutes,Seconds), the opposite will be the blocks we need for the buildup, the hypotenuse in 5” (center distance of the wheels). So moving the formula around 30(dms)50(dms)12(dms)(enter Sine(depending on your calculator))X5 enter(=) should give you 2.5629”. If you prefer 30D50M12S = 30.8366dd. I hope this helps, thanks for your post!
Your welcome. I appreciate your comments Stanley, thanks for taking the time to write.
As a technician at Pratt, I commend you on this video. Well done Sir.
Thank you for your kind words.
That is an option and as with anything there are limitations. Some kits have two .050 wear blocks. Sometimes wear blocks are not used but this is not good practice.Thanks for your post.
I love grinding, very tight tolerances! Thanks for your post!
....Which is about the typical level of intellect of many TH-cam videos.
Nice and clever … but as I'm a failure in these kind of things, I did not understand a word of it !!… ;))
Nice video. Don't pay any mind to the over critical. If you were woking in a sterile enviroment in a clean room, then yes, gloves and alcohol are the right choice. But for normal use on the floor, I was taught the way you just showed. Wring the blocks together after rubbing on the back of hand to ensure a friction fit, and get on with it. When finished for the day, I always cleaned with alcohol, then rub them down with a clean oil dampened cloth (3-in-1 oil) to get a film on them
Thank you, I appreciate you stopping by!
Thanks for your comment, it is nice to know these videos are useful!
Hope this helped! Thanks for stopping by.
You will notice I use the back of my hand which does not have the same oil issue as the palm. If you are going to use cotton gloves beware of lint. Rust only becomes an issue if the blocks are left wrung together after use rather than taken apart, cleaned properly, and put away. The acids in your hands will rust the blocks.
Excellent video and very informative, thanks for sharing.
Glad to Kevin, thanks for taking the time to watch.
Very clear explanation, thanks a lot for posting!
Excellent demo. Many thanks.
I believe that is true although I would say oxidation...but I've never tried it! Thanks for your post!
Great question, often when machining is required a sine "plate" is use. the job is either bolted to the plate or a magnetic plate is used. Thanks
This is specalized equippment used in a course I teach. If you don't get it don't worry most people won't use it. If you would like to understand please send me a note letting me know what I can help you with.
Great post, well-explained. Thank you.
@florisjanpietster, You don't machine against a sine bar. You use it in conjunction with a dial gauge to set the angle of the workpiece in a rotary stage or by setting the table angle or head angle on the mil. It's just a more precise and repeatable way to do that than using the graduated scale on a geared rotary stage.
I've machined on a sine plate.
Calibration should be done at regular intervals and pulled out of service if the blocks exceed their tolerance.
machiningmoments We studied this in course but lecturer never told us how to measure angle and we need to remove air before stacking. Thank you.....
BTW Cody labs did video on how the blocks are joined together and even when there was no air, it stuck
Thanks for your note. Yes the blocks are so flat when you put them together they seem to be magnetized.
machiningmoments the manufacturing is just phenomenal...
machiningmoments, thanks indeed for the enlighting video. Perhaps it´s worth mentioning that the blocks shouldn´t be left longer than necessary stuck one to another as their absolute even surfaces cause kind of a welding effect between them, making it impossible to separate them again.
Very good video, thanks, is it true that these blocks will cold weld together if not disassembled and oiled ??
you explained it well. thank you so much.
What if the wear blocks wear out of spec? Extra hard material?
How are you going to accurately measure an angle on a part made on your CNC machine to ensure that it correct to within tolerence?
The thumbnail looks like a rally car climbing a block of concrete :)
how would you machine the piece without damaging the sine bar. for example when milling.
They need a lot of steel/material to feed them. They can be expensive to have sitting idle!
Good, clear explanation. Thanks! I subbed.
Somebody woke up on the wrong side of bed huh... chill out, bad mood and nasty temper are bad for your blood pressure :)
This is very nice of you, but I guess I can do without it.
Thak you just the same : I really appreciate.
Have a good day.
dd? Are ok using trigonometry?
We all need a little iron!
I'm not really sure...and different regions will have different slang names for tool.
Thanks
My pleasure
i wondered what a sine bar was for...
Shouldn't it be 2.263 ? being as we are rounding off a 9?
When using gauge blocks we calculate to the fourth decimal place as that is the accuracy of the blocks.
Thank you for clarifying that for me
Glad to help
How can you ensure the gage blocks are clean when you have oils from your hands being transfered to the blocks? Use CLEAN cotton gloves to handle the blocks and use a lint free wipe and alcohol to clean them. This methodology will ensure that your gage blocks will not rust!! If your going to teach people how to do something, please ensure you are training them PROPERLY!!!
It is a bit odd looking.
Inches
By the way, one more thing, the oils from your hands will RUST the gage blocks!!