This is not a membrane system (bonding flange drain to membrane), for those who are asking. You use the old school vinyl liner system for this linear drain. You pre-slope the floor under the vinyl liner toward the drain. Install the vinyl liner over your pre-sloped base, then install the linear drain and then you make your mortar bed over the liner. This vinyl liner system cost less in materials than a membrane system. 5-6 bags of bed mortar, vinyl liner, drain flange and linear drain. A linear drain with bonded membrane is 200-300 dollars, a roll of membrane 125.00, corner membranes and two rolls of membrane strip, close to another 200 dollars, 40 dollars for modified thinset. Then either you go with a foam pre slope floor or a mortar bed...all that stuff adds up in a heartbeat.
if that channel is level there is no way all the water will drain out. There is going to be a lot of mold in the channel you'll need to clean it very often. Flat bed trays do not work right, you need the trays that have the V shaped bottoms that are tapered down to the drain hole.
No membrane is not used. This is not a bonding drain flange. This is the old school vinyl liner system. You make a pre-sloped based that the liner goes on. Water that seeps past the mortar bed is pulled by gravity and capillary action toward the drain flange and goes down the weep holes in the drain flange. This system cost less in materials than a bonding drain flange and membrane.
Do you have any inside as to this looks like they legit had to build up like 2 inches of mortar or thinset to make the tile flush like what the fuck should I not build my shower base with a water barrier and have the drain built lower down with this so my thinset on the water barrier is only like quarter inch or something not 2 inches lol
Well....it's a rather long explanation but watch this video.....you'll get the idea. And yes, sometimes it's a 2" build up. In the video I like how he uses a dry pack instead of runny. Yer right... you wouldn't want to do this with thin-set. Experienced tile guys screed off of just a pencil mark but you do what you want. th-cam.com/video/eYJ5gQtVAsI/w-d-xo.html
@Read More yeah I would rather not do it like this having that much build up sounds like a nightmare for inconsistencies I will watch the video you linked some guys I have watched have the pre made bottom and the drain sits in it so you don't have crazy build up I guess some of this could come down to local building codes but this just seems like a silly way go go about it in my opinion
The flex sealant provided is trash It only seals. You will have to buy your own glue to keep them together Also cutting the channel is a bad idea The blade provided burns the metal also trash.
This is not a membrane system (bonding flange drain to membrane), for those who are asking. You use the old school vinyl liner system for this linear drain. You pre-slope the floor under the vinyl liner toward the drain. Install the vinyl liner over your pre-sloped base, then install the linear drain and then you make your mortar bed over the liner. This vinyl liner system cost less in materials than a membrane system. 5-6 bags of bed mortar, vinyl liner, drain flange and linear drain. A linear drain with bonded membrane is 200-300 dollars, a roll of membrane 125.00, corner membranes and two rolls of membrane strip, close to another 200 dollars, 40 dollars for modified thinset. Then either you go with a foam pre slope floor or a mortar bed...all that stuff adds up in a heartbeat.
if that channel is level there is no way all the water will drain out. There is going to be a lot of mold in the channel you'll need to clean it very often. Flat bed trays do not work right, you need the trays that have the V shaped bottoms that are tapered down to the drain hole.
No waterproof membrane?
No membrane is not used. This is not a bonding drain flange. This is the old school vinyl liner system. You make a pre-sloped based that the liner goes on. Water that seeps past the mortar bed is pulled by gravity and capillary action toward the drain flange and goes down the weep holes in the drain flange. This system cost less in materials than a bonding drain flange and membrane.
No liner?
No mention of weep water drain? They always call the plumber (me) when a stain shows on the ceiling.
Do you have any inside as to this looks like they legit had to build up like 2 inches of mortar or thinset to make the tile flush like what the fuck should I not build my shower base with a water barrier and have the drain built lower down with this so my thinset on the water barrier is only like quarter inch or something not 2 inches lol
Well....it's a rather long explanation but watch this video.....you'll get the idea. And yes, sometimes it's a 2" build up. In the video I like how he uses a dry pack instead of runny. Yer right... you wouldn't want to do this with thin-set. Experienced tile guys screed off of just a pencil mark but you do what you want. th-cam.com/video/eYJ5gQtVAsI/w-d-xo.html
@Read More yeah I would rather not do it like this having that much build up sounds like a nightmare for inconsistencies I will watch the video you linked some guys I have watched have the pre made bottom and the drain sits in it so you don't have crazy build up I guess some of this could come down to local building codes but this just seems like a silly way go go about it in my opinion
Cut and reconnect is a bad idea
John Smith yeah that’s no good
Just buy the standard sizes available.
step one buy a drain that don't required cutting
I don't trust the cutting of the drain. That's a no no
1. google 2. type in "mortar" 3. click on the button to hear it pronounced 4. repeat for "denatured". But otherwise a very nice how to video.
The flex sealant provided is trash
It only seals. You will have to buy your own glue to keep them together
Also cutting the channel is a bad idea
The blade provided burns the metal also trash.
I dont trust in this one to many pieces
Like you're desired height
You mispronounced many words
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