Just a few thoughts: for the 300wby it looks like it needs to be seated further out to keep the boat tail out of the body and closer to the neck. Remember we have a lot of freebore to play with, it may also drop your pressure a bit. For using the bullet puller just stuff some paper towel at the bottom to save your tips. Love the channel. Good luck! Chris
Totally agree !! All my loads in my 300 wby are max or slightly greater with zero pressure, (weatherby mark v) I load out full mag !! Love this channel too
The 210gr ABLR works phenomenally well in my .300WM, I use Retumbo and velocity 2,964ft/sec. With RL25, it is 2,959ft/sec and I have used it in hunting and competition applications. Both speeds were substantially faster than expected, even though I also use GRT. My rifle is a Remington 700, Long Range, 26” barrel. It did so well, I bought all the ABLR’s in 210gr that I could find. Now sitting on stock for some years.
I have a fierce 7PRC that only shoots under 3/4 moa if I let it cool between the 2nd and third shots. If you have a thin profile barrel in a high energy cartridge, it may just be moving “walking” as the barrel heats up.
Place a small cotton ball into your puller to cushion the bullet tip. One other thing to check is your case internal water volume. I've found large disparities when measuring full case overflow. Weatherby cases seem to have larger case volumes. Quick Load adjusts for that, and you can go over pressure if not careful.
If you haven’t already, I’d bed the action and make sure the barrel is floated on the 300 WSM. May get rid of the flyer. Thanks for sharing, even if the results weren’t what you were hoping for.
@ReloadingWeatherby my 300 wsm was a remington 700 stainless fluted, it would do very similar with 200gr eldx bullets. The first two close and the 3rd was a flyer, it's just getting too hot is what I found. My 6.5 PRC is much the same with 143gr eldx bullets. When I let them cool for a minute or two, the 3rd lands in the group. I don't hand load, so it could be the primers or the seat depth. But both my rifle are magazine constrained. The 200gr bullets would almost touch the internal mag. The 143gr almost touch the detachable mag. You might have similar issues with your 300wsm if it's a remington 700.
Good advice, get rid of the obvious rifle accuracy robbing variables first. "Don't put the cart before the horse, so to speak." This can be done using less expensive factory loads that your barrel already likes. When those start to group tighter, it's handloading time.
The 2 together and one out like Your getting with the 300 WSM is typical of a barrel that has a pressure point near the end of the forearm and free floating the barrel should cure that issue
I've had pressure in the lower published data in my .300 Wby with 7828 also. I've also been over book max with H1000 and had no pressure🤷♂️🤷♂️ I'm currently running 88 grains of H1000 at 3150 fps with a 180 AB which is faster than what the book says it should run. Long story short, the books are all over the place with their data because it's typically one rifle's worth of data and as we know, they're all different.
You know, showing the rough range days makes it more relatable. I hope these work out, I just picked some up and they are pretty spendy. One would hope that translates to repeatable results.
Try putting some bees wax in the end of the puller's tube to cushion the bullet tips. Very little powder will be lost, whatever may stick to the wax. You can clean the puller out with hot water afterward...A collet puller can mar the jacket as well, so there is no perfect way to pull bullets. Enjoying your content, although only a few cartridges are common to what I use.
Interesting what you experience with your reloaded Weatherby rounds across calibers… I’d be interested in a dedicated video around the subject… I’m curious about experience with factory loads and reloaded rounds - including seating depth, bullet protruding into case data etc…… the 300 WSM is so fun…
Rumors are it has to do with Weatherby no longer using Norma brass. The new brass has less case capacity and therefore drives up the pressure and velocity that the books say are safe. I don't think the data out of Nosler, Hornady, Speer, Sierra and so on has been updated for the Weatherby cartridges in 20 years or more.
I have found in my 378wby I can't go anywhere near what Barnes claims Is max. I hit velocity and pressure way before what Barnes claims to be maximum. Gotta be careful even with published load data on some of these cartridges. Especially ones that are less mainstream. Makes you wonder if they ever actually tested some of this stuff or if it's just some sort of program they use to create suggested load data
The 7828SSC and the regular 7828 are two different powders. 7828 has been discontinued in favor of the 7828SSC. The load density between the two is drastically different due to the kernel size. May be something to look into with that powder for more accurate weights. You shouldn't be getting that kind of pressure signs but then again each rifle is different.
They say 7828 and 7828ssc are interchangeable for load data but every time reloading data calls for straight 7828 and iv used SSC in its place I always hit pressure way early!! You can’t tell me that you can take a powder and shorten the kernels as much as SSC is shortened over 7828 and it not burn different!! It has to burn faster!! If that wasn’t the case you wouldn’t have hit pressure below half what Nosler calls for and I wouldn’t see the same thing every time I try to interchange them!!
Way back in the day, mid-‘80’s, when I had my Mark V Deluxe, I found that gun shot lights out with 180gr Speers. When I’d move up to 200-220gr, I’d always get that one flier in the group.
@ I have to say, I do enjoy living vicariously through you. Back when I was reloading, we just didn’t have all the bullet options there are now. I’ve thought about getting back into it since my wife passed a couple years ago, but I’m afraid I might lose my mind with all the bullets out there now. Lolol.
Try putting a foam ear plug or piece of felt in the bottom of your inertia bullet puller. Also, have you checked your Weatherby brass for water weight after fire forming in your rifle? It's just something else to scramble the brain. Good luck, and stay safe!!! 😉😉😉
Put a piece of paper towel in your puller. Tips won’t get damaged. Works great. Also use a shell holder instead of that ridiculous collet. It’s a lot easier.
I ran 82 grs of 7828 in my 300 Wby with a 220 smk don't forget about your bearing surface length it has alot to do with pressure also, a Vld in 210 will not show pressure because it has a shorter bearing surface, meaning not as much contact surface on the barrel hope your running 1n10 or 1n11 twist if a 1n9 will cause pressure also Great Vid 👍👍👍👍
@@ReloadingWeatherby 2850 30 inch Hart barrel 1.450 dia tight neck 336 dia neck shilen dga action gun weighed 53 lbs buil by Bruce Baer shot in the .1's to .2's at 100 6 to 10 inches at 1000yds .200 freebore barrel block epoxied in 8.7 steel block 2oz trig
I'm blowing got old still shoot but have some fun don't worry bout velocity paper trumps all, gun handling managing trigger pull and knowing when you made a good trigger pull or touch is key, the 300wsm is very accurate because of case design just a big 6br..nice chatting with u
Jealous that you've got 7828! It's good to see the bad days too. Otherwise someone new to the sport will look and think it's oh so easy and everything works perfectly from the get-go
That's a real head-scratcher, R.Dubb. IMR-7828 has been my go-to powder for my 300 and 340 Weatherbys. I don't shoot the 300 above 200 grains, though. You may want to consider a lighter bullet for your 300 and 210 and above in the 340. That's the weight range that produces the best results for me from both rifles.
@ReloadingWeatherby Yep, every gun, every shooter, every handload developed varies for any number of different reasons. However, you don't need warp factor 7, cloverleaf results at 100 yards to take down a deer, antelope, elk, etc, at 400 yards with a .300 Weatherby.
Weatherby's have never shot well with the ABLR for me with the secant ogive. Now standard Accubonds with the tangent ogive jump well and shoot way better for me with the freebore. Hard for me to get Berger VLD's to shoot well also. Have to shoot the Hybrids.
I can’t get my hands on the 210s, 190s are everywhere. Disappointing re the pressure signs. Especially since we are at low temps right now. What’s the H2O capacity on your once fired Weatherby brass? Is it the 90 grain the Nosler book states or more? I guess you are above with a proper shoulder set back which would make the pressure signs even more perplexing [EDIT] - just saw the GRT screen at the end. You are at 97 grains case capacity in your modeling, which makes the book numbers absolutely ridiculous.
So the 300wm can only stabalize up to 190 grain bullets with a 1 in 10 twist. Im gonna assume the 300wsm is conparable if not slightly less grain weight since less velocity. Be better suited for a 175grain
We just got my dad a 257 weatherby he’s been talking about one for years(Christmas present) he’s a die hard 25-06 guy!! What’s the best load you’ve found for your if you don’t mind me asking
What do you think it is that makes both the 190 and 210 ABLR sketchy? Have you had good luck with ABLR's in other calibers/cartridges? I have never used them, so I am just curious.
ABLR bullets have a secant design. Generally they are extremely jump sensitive. With the Weatherby rifles having tons of freebore... it's not a good combo. I have had very good success reloading the ABLR in a standard cartridge.
you're at max max book charge weight, but is your velocity more than what the book list as max for that powder? pressure equals velocity. you should be basing your max load by the velocity, not the amount of powder.
Like you, I like IMR7828 and H1000 in my 300 Weatherby. Last year I switched powders. I started using N560 due to powder availability in my area. Not much for data out there. I am having very good luck with it using the 200gr LRX. Best of luck to you.
I don’t plan on getting reloading equipment for a few years if that affects the choice between 300 pro and 300 wetherby. Ammunition cost isn’t a massive concern either
It's not you, it's your die. Here's 3 better ways to size your brass: 1) If your FL die has a fully threaded expander rod, run a case all the way up, then screw up the expander rod until the expander ball touches the neck, then screw it down a couple turns. Lower the ram but stop when the ball is in the neck. Put a rubber o-ring under the rod's locknut and tighten snugly. This allows finding center. Bonanza FL dies already come with a raised ball. The case is then supported while being expanded. 2) Remove the expander rod entirely and use a second step with an expander die to set your neck. 3) Use a Lee Collet Neck Die.
Let’s hope you didn’t find the rare bullet that doesn’t shoot in one of your guns. There’s nothing worse than finding a bullet your gun just doesn’t agree with. The 169 SMK and my 308 simply don’t seem to get along. 4 powders, 6 seating depths, several charge ladders and the bullet just won’t get below 1 MOA consistently with a gun that I have often looked at a suggested GRT load and got sub moa first try or do a 5-10 shot ladder and get a workable load out of that without much chasing. Fingers crossed RDub.
A trick I use in my bullet puller. I fold up a couple of cleaning patches and stuff them in the bottom of the puller. Have damaged a tip since.
Just a few thoughts: for the 300wby it looks like it needs to be seated further out to keep the boat tail out of the body and closer to the neck. Remember we have a lot of freebore to play with, it may also drop your pressure a bit.
For using the bullet puller just stuff some paper towel at the bottom to save your tips.
Love the channel. Good luck!
Chris
Totally agree !! All my loads in my 300 wby are max or slightly greater with zero pressure, (weatherby mark v) I load out full mag !! Love this channel too
RCBS Collet Bullet Puller! Just buy the correct collets for bullet diameter. Easy & simple!
The 210gr ABLR works phenomenally well in my .300WM, I use Retumbo and velocity 2,964ft/sec. With RL25, it is 2,959ft/sec and I have used it in hunting and competition applications. Both speeds were substantially faster than expected, even though I also use GRT.
My rifle is a Remington 700, Long Range, 26” barrel.
It did so well, I bought all the ABLR’s in 210gr that I could find. Now sitting on stock for some years.
I have a fierce 7PRC that only shoots under 3/4 moa if I let it cool between the 2nd and third shots. If you have a thin profile barrel in a high energy cartridge, it may just be moving “walking” as the barrel heats up.
Place a small cotton ball into your puller to cushion the bullet tip.
One other thing to check is your case internal water volume. I've found large disparities when measuring full case overflow. Weatherby cases seem to have larger case volumes. Quick Load adjusts for that, and you can go over pressure if not careful.
If you haven’t already, I’d bed the action and make sure the barrel is floated on the 300 WSM. May get rid of the flyer. Thanks for sharing, even if the results weren’t what you were hoping for.
Hmm... I just might
@ReloadingWeatherby my 300 wsm was a remington 700 stainless fluted, it would do very similar with 200gr eldx bullets. The first two close and the 3rd was a flyer, it's just getting too hot is what I found. My 6.5 PRC is much the same with 143gr eldx bullets. When I let them cool for a minute or two, the 3rd lands in the group. I don't hand load, so it could be the primers or the seat depth. But both my rifle are magazine constrained. The 200gr bullets would almost touch the internal mag. The 143gr almost touch the detachable mag. You might have similar issues with your 300wsm if it's a remington 700.
Bed at two points on the lu and near the tang to the rear of the reciever@@ReloadingWeatherby
Good advice, get rid of the obvious rifle accuracy robbing variables first. "Don't put the cart before the horse, so to speak." This can be done using less expensive factory loads that your barrel already likes. When those start to group tighter, it's handloading time.
@@ReloadingWeatherby what did you get velocity wise for the 300 wsm?
The 2 together and one out like Your getting with the 300 WSM is typical of a barrel that has a pressure point near the end of the forearm and free floating the barrel should cure that issue
I've had pressure in the lower published data in my .300 Wby with 7828 also. I've also been over book max with H1000 and had no pressure🤷♂️🤷♂️
I'm currently running 88 grains of H1000 at 3150 fps with a 180 AB which is faster than what the book says it should run.
Long story short, the books are all over the place with their data because it's typically one rifle's worth of data and as we know, they're all different.
I loaded some of these for a friend in 30 nosler. Used IMR 4831 for the best groups of the powders I tried.
I would check the bedding on the action. Not every thing can be a loading issue. The gun wants to shoot when two group and you get a flyer.
You know, showing the rough range days makes it more relatable. I hope these work out, I just picked some up and they are pretty spendy. One would hope that translates to repeatable results.
We will see
@ReloadingWeatherby here's hoping. Money for bullets, powder, case prep and time at the range would be nice to have a payoff.
Try putting some bees wax in the end of the puller's tube to cushion the bullet tips. Very little powder will be lost, whatever may stick to the wax. You can clean the puller out with hot water afterward...A collet puller can mar the jacket as well, so there is no perfect way to pull bullets.
Enjoying your content, although only a few cartridges are common to what I use.
Interesting what you experience with your reloaded Weatherby rounds across calibers… I’d be interested in a dedicated video around the subject… I’m curious about experience with factory loads and reloaded rounds - including seating depth, bullet protruding into case data etc…… the 300 WSM is so fun…
Rumors are it has to do with Weatherby no longer using Norma brass. The new brass has less case capacity and therefore drives up the pressure and velocity that the books say are safe. I don't think the data out of Nosler, Hornady, Speer, Sierra and so on has been updated for the Weatherby cartridges in 20 years or more.
@@ReloadingWeatherby very interesting and adds up…… thank you.
Have seen a few loading manuals and cartridges disagree with each other, will be curious to see your results moving forward Austin
I have same problem with 7828 even in 243. I quit using it all together. I use ram shot magnum and have staball had but haven’t tried the staball yet
Put some medium from your tumbler in the bullet puller to help keep from damaging the tip, also try some H1000
I have found in my 378wby I can't go anywhere near what Barnes claims Is max. I hit velocity and pressure way before what Barnes claims to be maximum. Gotta be careful even with published load data on some of these cartridges. Especially ones that are less mainstream. Makes you wonder if they ever actually tested some of this stuff or if it's just some sort of program they use to create suggested load data
The 7828SSC and the regular 7828 are two different powders. 7828 has been discontinued in favor of the 7828SSC. The load density between the two is drastically different due to the kernel size. May be something to look into with that powder for more accurate weights. You shouldn't be getting that kind of pressure signs but then again each rifle is different.
300 WSM vs 300 RCM dub it "Battle of the Shorties!"
They say 7828 and 7828ssc are interchangeable for load data but every time reloading data calls for straight 7828 and iv used SSC in its place I always hit pressure way early!! You can’t tell me that you can take a powder and shorten the kernels as much as SSC is shortened over 7828 and it not burn different!! It has to burn faster!! If that wasn’t the case you wouldn’t have hit pressure below half what Nosler calls for and I wouldn’t see the same thing every time I try to interchange them!!
When using them bullet pullers put a bit of foam at the end it'll help prevent tip damage.
Way back in the day, mid-‘80’s, when I had my Mark V Deluxe, I found that gun shot lights out with 180gr Speers. When I’d move up to 200-220gr, I’d always get that one flier in the group.
I have a killer 175 gr LRX load to fall back on. Just trying something new for fun
@ I have to say, I do enjoy living vicariously through you. Back when I was reloading, we just didn’t have all the bullet options there are now. I’ve thought about getting back into it since my wife passed a couple years ago, but I’m afraid I might lose my mind with all the bullets out there now. Lolol.
Try putting a foam ear plug or piece of felt in the bottom of your inertia bullet puller. Also, have you checked your Weatherby brass for water weight after fire forming in your rifle? It's just something else to scramble the brain. Good luck, and stay safe!!! 😉😉😉
Good idea with the bullet puller. I have put water in my fired case.
Put a piece of paper towel in your puller. Tips won’t get damaged. Works great. Also use a shell holder instead of that ridiculous collet. It’s a lot easier.
I ran 82 grs of 7828 in my 300 Wby with a 220 smk don't forget about your bearing surface length it has alot to do with pressure also, a Vld in 210 will not show pressure because it has a shorter bearing surface, meaning not as much contact surface on the barrel hope your running 1n10 or 1n11 twist if a 1n9 will cause pressure also Great Vid 👍👍👍👍
What velocities are you getting with that 220 gr?
@@ReloadingWeatherby 2850 30 inch Hart barrel 1.450 dia tight neck 336 dia neck shilen dga action gun weighed 53 lbs buil by Bruce Baer shot in the .1's to .2's at 100 6 to 10 inches at 1000yds .200 freebore barrel block epoxied in 8.7 steel block 2oz trig
I'm blowing got old still shoot but have some fun don't worry bout velocity paper trumps all, gun handling managing trigger pull and knowing when you made a good trigger pull or touch is key, the 300wsm is very accurate because of case design just a big 6br..nice chatting with u
Jealous that you've got 7828!
It's good to see the bad days too. Otherwise someone new to the sport will look and think it's oh so easy and everything works perfectly from the get-go
Put a small bit of toilet paper or paper towel down in the bottom of the kinetic bullet pullers for the bullet to hit into will save you tips too!
What a completely ridiculous, useless tip. EVERYONE knows half a cotton ball it the obvious solution. #teamcottonballinmybulletpuller
You sound sick I hope you feel better
I am sick
That's a real head-scratcher, R.Dubb. IMR-7828 has been my go-to powder for my 300 and 340 Weatherbys.
I don't shoot the 300 above 200 grains, though. You may want to consider a lighter bullet for your 300 and 210 and above in the 340. That's the weight range that produces the best results for me from both rifles.
Every gun is different... I've never had stellar results with IMR 7828 SSC in any of my guns. But I can usually get something sub MOA with it.
@ReloadingWeatherby
Yep, every gun, every shooter, every handload developed varies for any number of different reasons. However, you don't need warp factor 7, cloverleaf results at 100 yards to take down a deer, antelope, elk, etc, at 400 yards with a .300 Weatherby.
IMR 7828 has been discontinued hope you have a stockpile if you find a great load
Put a foam ear plug in your bullet puller it won’t damage the bullets at all !!
i use disposable ear plug in the bottom seems to work well
Stick to the standard accubond mate, heaps better bullet anyway 👍🏼
Weatherby's have never shot well with the ABLR for me with the secant ogive. Now standard Accubonds with the tangent ogive jump well and shoot way better for me with the freebore. Hard for me to get Berger VLD's to shoot well also. Have to shoot the Hybrids.
Yep
i like 4831sc and weatherby likes freebore
RL 22 only.. H1000 Weatherby
Basically lol
Put an ear plug in your puller. It helps.
I can’t get my hands on the 210s, 190s are everywhere. Disappointing re the pressure signs. Especially since we are at low temps right now. What’s the H2O capacity on your once fired Weatherby brass? Is it the 90 grain the Nosler book states or more? I guess you are above with a proper shoulder set back which would make the pressure signs even more perplexing
[EDIT] - just saw the GRT screen at the end. You are at 97 grains case capacity in your modeling, which makes the book numbers absolutely ridiculous.
Im shooting 210's in my 300wm at 3000fps sub moa and have performed very well on game
Nice
Seat them deeper in both guns, that might bring the fliers in especially with the 300 WSM. They like some jump typically.
Planning on it
So the 300wm can only stabalize up to 190 grain bullets with a 1 in 10 twist. Im gonna assume the 300wsm is conparable if not slightly less grain weight since less velocity. Be better suited for a 175grain
Any 30 caliber 1in10 twist rifle will stabilize up to the 230 gr Berger.
I put cotton on bottom of tube. My tips do not get damaged
We just got my dad a 257 weatherby he’s been talking about one for years(Christmas present) he’s a die hard 25-06 guy!! What’s the best load you’ve found for your if you don’t mind me asking
My gun likes the 92 gr Hammer and the 110 gr Accubond. H4831SC, H1000 will do well
What do you think it is that makes both the 190 and 210 ABLR sketchy? Have you had good luck with ABLR's in other calibers/cartridges? I have never used them, so I am just curious.
ABLR bullets have a secant design. Generally they are extremely jump sensitive. With the Weatherby rifles having tons of freebore... it's not a good combo. I have had very good success reloading the ABLR in a standard cartridge.
@@ReloadingWeatherby Thank you!
you're at max max book charge weight, but is your velocity more than what the book list as max for that powder?
pressure equals velocity. you should be basing your max load by the velocity, not the amount of powder.
Like you, I like IMR7828 and H1000 in my 300 Weatherby. Last year I switched powders. I started using N560 due to powder availability in my area. Not much for data out there. I am having very good luck with it using the 200gr LRX. Best of luck to you.
Do you have a short free bore in your 300 WBY ? You should not be getting that kind of pressure at that powder charge .
No... this rifle has a lot of freebore
@ Why do you think it develops so much pressure ?
Whats your runout?
I’m stuck between a 300 weather y or a 300 prc or a 28 nosler. What would you recommend
I would pick 300 Weatherby or 300 PRC. The 30 caliber magnums are easier to get accurate over 28 Nosler.
@ thank you for responding! what should I pick between 300 prc and 300 weatherby
I don’t plan on getting reloading equipment for a few years if that affects the choice between 300 pro and 300 wetherby. Ammunition cost isn’t a massive concern either
My Kimber 300 WSM hated them.
Was it always the last shot with that went wide with the WSM
Yep
@ReloadingWeatherby if it's consistent it might be a barrel heating issue
I shoot the 190 ablr out one of my custom 300 ways with a 26 inch bartlein barrel im getting half moa and 3250 fps with 88 grains of h1000
Nice
WHAT VELOCITIES WERE YOU GETTING WITH THE 300 WSM?
Little over 2800 FPS
@ReloadingWeatherby NICE!
I can't keep my runout down to accept numbers with accubonds, but I'm sure it's just me.
It's not you, it's your die. Here's 3 better ways to size your brass:
1) If your FL die has a fully threaded expander rod, run a case all the way up, then screw up the expander rod until the expander ball touches the neck, then screw it down a couple turns. Lower the ram but stop when the ball is in the neck. Put a rubber o-ring under the rod's locknut and tighten snugly. This allows finding center. Bonanza FL dies already come with a raised ball. The case is then supported while being expanded.
2) Remove the expander rod entirely and use a second step with an expander die to set your neck.
3) Use a Lee Collet Neck Die.
Let’s hope you didn’t find the rare bullet that doesn’t shoot in one of your guns. There’s nothing worse than finding a bullet your gun just doesn’t agree with. The 169 SMK and my 308 simply don’t seem to get along. 4 powders, 6 seating depths, several charge ladders and the bullet just won’t get below 1 MOA consistently with a gun that I have often looked at a suggested GRT load and got sub moa first try or do a 5-10 shot ladder and get a workable load out of that without much chasing. Fingers crossed RDub.
Put a piece of rag in the bottom of the hammer
Dud what happened to your voice
I'm sick
That remington stock is shit get rid.of it
Less is more
Bummer
I'll get it to work eventually...
Get bergers.
They are accurate... but I don't like them as hunting bullets.
I’m pushing these close to 2600 in 308