I've been sitting here reading all your comments 30 years been paralyzed and I think I'm going to get one of them motorcycles y'all riding I think it's time to get back on two wheels again now that's a automatic CVT
The spouse and I are both considering buying a Ryker for each of us. I appreciate the video and the comparison. You're very clear about the differences. Super helpful! I'm now more convinced I want the 900 lol.
Thx for the feedback! I was pleasantly surprised at the 600's growl and good power delivery. The 900 is certainly faster and has more torque, but the 600 should suffice for anyone that doesn't plan to ride 2-up or travel for extended periods above 80 mph on the highway. You might be interested in my Red Dirt Ryker's meetup ride series, where I rode with several other Rykers... mostly 900's and the same 600 again: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . The 600 was able to keep up with us just fine until we got up to triple-digit speeds. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I was just back up in OKC last weekend for a Ryker meet-up ride with the Red Dirt Rykers. I'm editing that video series now and I should have it posted soon. Stay tuned for that! 👍 --QM
I’ve ridden the 600, the 900, and a spyder F3’s, and so far I’ve loved the 600 out of all of them, I found that the 900 throttle was really twitchy, great ride, cheers
We bought the 600 Ryker for the missus. Due to California ARB emissions laws, it’s the only one we could find but I was pleased with the power and like the sound of the twin better. I really appreciate your comparison video. Thanks!
Hello fellow Californian. The 900s should be coming out at the beginning/middle of next month. I've been hearing between the 10th and 15th from my local dealer. Cant wait to pick one up!
Awsome thanks for video. I have been riding the 600 for the last 6 months.i have been looking for a video showing 900 and 600 side by side speed..damn, i want the 900 now... but I still love my 600.
Yep, I've had the ROLO laser alignment done on my Rally twice already. The first alignment fixed a bad toe-out condition (hard pull to the right). The second one was an attempt to cure the tail wag a bit more (dialed in another 0.5 degree of toe-in), but it didn't seem to make any difference. --QM
Simple cure for the twitch: replace your factory sway bar and sway bar end links. I bought a used 2019 last month (May 2024), and it scared hell out of me - especially on curves and rough roads. Replacing the sway bar with a BajaRon three-piece bar, , and the end links with some generic ones off Amazon, made an amazing difference.
Good tips! I replaced the original sway bar with the upgraded BRP bar (+30% stiffer) just a couple of weeks after getting my Ryker. I still had the factory end links on there (plastic), but the steering issues were more involved with my Ryker. I paid to have it laser aligned 5 times without any success. Some of the steering components were finally replaced 3 years later under a factory recall, but none of those "fixes" worked for my bike. I finally decided to sell it in August 2023. The new owner advised that they replaced the steering center bushings, the right side ball joints, and right side control arm bushings... which finally resolved the erratic steering and handling issues. Can-Am refused to acknowledge that those parts were faulty from the assembly line, and they would't cover the diagnosis or replacement under my factory warranty or the 4-year extended warranty that I purchased. Unfortunately, I think that will probably be the first and last Can-Am product I'll ever own. 😒 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Interesting to hear what the fix involved, and depressing to hear Can-Am wouldn't stand behind their product. Mine had 9000 miles over five years when I bought it last month, and there seems to have been no substantive issues with it - aside from the squirrely steering, which the last owner didn't realize was a bug. I picked it up for $5000, because the seller is retiring to Mexico and decided it would draw unwanted attention from both sides of the law. He originally listed it for $7000, and had no takers. His loss, my gain. It came with an upgraded seat, side color panels, a windshield and a parking lever lock By far the most attention I get is from young children; they absolutely love it. My wife says that should tell me something.... 😁
It’s always humid in OKC except in the winter time. You can’t have F 5 tornados without humidity. NM sends you guys thee cold fronts into that warm humid air stream from the Gulf Coast. Buy for your wife and give it to me. 🤪. Now if you’re head West you must be headed my way. Yep, you’re on I 40. And 66 will still bring yourself onto ABQ. How large a gas tank on both? I’m watching this Wednesday evening. Wait until you get a hurricane in Houston. Thanks, enjoyed the ride and info.
@@jauwannr I just drove it into Fort Wayne, Indiana from Hicksville, Ohio. It runs great and has plenty of get up and go. I got it up to 91 mph but the highways around this area are 55 mph. Unless you get on one of the freeways which is 70 mph. So it’s plenty of machine. I get around 40 mpg if I don’t get on the throttle to much.
It's probably alignment in the front. So if your toe in is set perfectly parallel as in 0⁰ toe then it will wander around. If theres 5⁰ toe in it will have a tendency to wash side to side as tires grab. Suspension movement can exaggerate it. Depending on tires and suspension stiffness that should be something that can be adjusted out. Or possibly a steering dampener shock? It could be a design flaw? Ultimately it needs to be tight enough on the toe in so that it responds without a bunch of slop.
Yeah, we've gone around and around with it. I had the ROLO laser alignment done initially to resolve an out of spec condition where it was constantly pulling to the right. We set the toe at the factory spec of ~2⁰, straightened the handlebars to center, and then reset the steering angle sensor... that helped but didn't eliminate the wandering ("tail-wag"). I took it back a second time to add a bit more toe-in (another ~1-1.5⁰) to see if that would help, but it's still the same story. The only significant changes that have worked were fixing the alignment originally and then reducing the front spring preload (factory was set at #3, we dropped to #2 and then I dropped it again down to ~1.5). The front end does have a tiny bit of negative camber that's baked-in, but it's not adjustable. We didn't measure the castor angle, but I'll bet that it's very low, too. In the old days, I typically set my race cars with very low toe-in and slowly increased the negative camber until the high-speed stability was dialed-in where I liked it (but not too much to cause bump-steer or other anomalies). I think the Ryker needs adjustable camber arms/plates to allow fix its ails. The steering linkage on the Ryker is a very simple arrangement... think go-kart, not Spyder. There is no power assist or rack-and-pinion arrangement... it's manual through and through. The handlebars are linked to a steering shaft (with a U-joint to change the angle) that connects to a simple cam arm that pulls directly on the left/right tie-rods... just like a go-kart. The ratio is fairly steep, so minor handlebar inputs translate to rather quick steering changes. The arrangement of the steering linkage would make it tough to fit a steering dampener in there, but it could probably be done. The first hurdle would be how to attach the dampener to one (or both) of the tie rods because they don't move straight laterally... they move in an eccentric arc due to the cam arm in the center. The second trick would be finding the right damper that isn't too stiff, which would make the steering too heavy (it's manual, no power-assist). The last issue is response tuning of the damper... the on-center tracking is so twitchy and requires so little input to affect the bike that the center would need to be "notchy" to help with the tail-wag. So far, I have concluded that the only "real" fix for the handling problem would be revised wheel geometry (e.g. adjustable camber arms) and rack-and-pinion steering (with an variable ratio rack, lower ratio on-center to give finer control). I'm still brainstorming on ways to improve or cure it, but I don't have the big shop full of tools needed for the job. I'll have to wait on the aftermarket to come up with answers, or for BRP to step up and replace some of the OEM pieces to remedy this first generation problem. --QM
Great video, really enjoyed it. Just waiting for the eBay auction to end on my future Ryker if the price doesn't get too crazy. Waiting is killing me, but these videos help a lot.
Smoak's videos were influential to me in purchasing my Ryker! I watched his laser realignment video several times, and that's what I showed to my dealer. Unfortunately, none of the dealers in the Houston area have the laser alignment equipment. They refer customers to outside 3rd parties to PAY for an alignment... not covered by dealer setup or factory warranty. That's a big fail on Can-Am's part. My Ryker has always handled badly compared to other Rykers, even after 4 separate ROLO laser alignments. I just noticed a new problem with the right wheel... fluttering in/out at the rear, independent of the other wheel or the tie rods... that means that ball joints or bushings are bad. So, it's parked until I have time to fight with warranty or just ordering new parts at my expense (e.g., control arms, ball joints, thrust bushings, etc). 👍 --QM
I'm looking into buying a Ryker, but I'm torn between the 600 and 900. I plan on doing some long rides 400+ miles. Would you recommend the 900 for that type of rides or would 600 do just fine. I was thinking about the Rally as well.
Either the 600 or 900 will be able to handle those distances without any problem. The decision on which model depends on how fast you plan to travel and on which highways. Texas has mostly 75 mph highways now, which the 600 can handle fine, but that's in the upper range of its "comfort zone". Most traffic here moves 15+ mph over the limit everywhere, so the 600 would be staying with the flow but not able to do much more. The 900 has plenty of power to run triple digits if needed, so it can cruise at 75-85 mph and still have room on top to accelerate or overtake if needed. The same thing applies to steep hills or mountain roads... the 900 will definitely be the better choice there because of the increased power on tap. The decision between the 900 and 900-Rally is just a matter of economics and looks. The 900 (non-Rally) has the full rear fender and more street-oriented wheels and tires, but it doesn't include the MAX Mount for the passenger. If you plan to ride 2-up, to add the MAX mount, or need the adjustable suspension, then the Rally is the better/cheaper option because those are already included. If you add the suspension and MAX mount to the 900 non-Rally, the price is higher than getting the Rally. Lastly, for longer trips, you'll probably need some luggage... that means either a tail bag (on the MAX mount) or the saddlebag kit. Luggage capacity on the Ryker is somewhat limited unless you think outside the box a little bit... a tailbag can hold a lot of stuff, but you'll need that MAX mount to do it. --QM
Just a guess, but I think the reason why yours tracks more is due to the tires on your Rally model being a wider, flatter profile than what the 600 has..
The tire sizes are roughly the same on the 600/900 vs the Rally, but the Rally has a different tread pattern... all-season vs road/street tread. I have discussed the tire issues with BRP and also with my dealer to see if there is any correlation. My dealer mentioned that several other Ryker owners have asked to swap tires with the non-Rally version for similar issues. The only problem there is that the Rally has a 15" rear tire instead of the 16" that the non-Rally has. There are aftermarket alternatives for the 15" rear, but we're stuck with the Kenda's for the front tires for now... nobody else manufacturers this size right now. --QM
Try "ride on" balance fluid in you tires to fix that side shift, I use it and it fixed 90 percent of shimmying I'll bet it will help with the sway back and forth on those trikes.. It balances as you ride , no more weights and perfect balance every ride.
Howdy, Zach! That's a great tip on the Ride-On tire balancer and sealant. I've been using that stuff in my motorcycle tires for many years including in the Ryker's tires (seen from inside the tire here: th-cam.com/video/g--QSajaLCU/w-d-xo.html ). Unfortunately, my Ryker has always had alignment issue with toe-out and wandering at higher speeds. It has been laser aligned 5+ times with only minor improvements that don't seem to last.
Thanks for the feedback, and congratulations on your new Ryker! You can find a lot of riding groups on Facebook. Be sure to look up "Red Dirt Rykers" and you'll find a lot of good folks there! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Cool video. I love those rykers but I've never owned one either. I'd probably pick the 600 like your friend Porky's gotta gun lol. Lots of people are complaining about the vss code and poor quality or reliability so I've backed off the purchase of one. Thanks for the great video. 🙂
I know this video is an older one but, I have a question. Bought a Ryker 900 Ace for my wife. While riding it, it sounds as though the transmission only has 1 gear and doesn't shift. Is that correct or am I just not noticing?
Yes, you are mostly correct. The Ryker has a CVT that doesn't "shift", but it does vary its output ratio into the gearbox. There are no variable speeds in the gearbox on the left side of the engine... it just allows operation in forward or reverse. The CVT is configured to maintain 3500-5000 RPM at lower road speeds around town. At higher speeds (e.g., freeway riding), the CVT will be in its most extended position for the highest drive ratio, but the Ryker's engine still spins relatively fast compared to most motorcycles. This is a good video showing a Can-Am CVT transmission in action: th-cam.com/video/sz8PaW_lUTI/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The windscreen makes a huge difference if you are planning to do any long, high-speed trips on the highways. Without the screen, you are buffeted around by the wind and you feel like you have to hang onto the bars tightly because of the pressure on your chest (it's the same with any naked bike moving over 60 mph). Speeds under 50-ish are manageable without the windscreen, so it depends on your intended rides and uses for the Ryker. I may upgrade this screen to another brand when they become availble (e.g. MadStad Engineering or similar) to have a little wider coverage, but the OEM Sport Windscreen does a good job. --QM
I did like the windscreen on motards ryker. It does make a huge difference at highway speeds. I can do about 90 minutes solid on highway until I feel beat up. But not having the guage spoiler was not fun.
Yep, that's Oklahoma weather in a nutshell. I live in Houston, so Gulf Coast weather isn't much better... but at least we don't (normally) have to worry about tornadoes. 😉👍 --QM
Nice, subbing! I think I’ll be leaning toward the 1330 cc model. I have ridden 2 wheel bikes my whole life. Still got my 1st street bike which I’ll probably keep for ever unless some one offers me some stupid cash for it. It’s a 1983 LTD 750 Kawasaki. My last street bike was a 1997 Valkyrie that flat 6 has me spoiled. I like the power on the highway! Plus I don’t care for CVT transmissions. I know they have gotten better over the years but I’m not a fan.
Thanks for the feedback and the sub! The CVT on the Ryker is actually quite good... much better than a typical scooter because it engages more smoothly and it handles slow speeds without constantly riding/burning the clutch at the engagement point. My only gripe about the Ryker's CVT and overall transmission ratio is that the motor spins really high at freeway cruising speeds, so the economy is poor... only 29-31 MPG average. 👍 --QM
Very nice video. Great for someone considering the 600 vs 900. I think for me the 600 should be plenty and i plan to add the 3 protection armors, sport windshield, LED auxiliary light, comfort seats, passenger seat, foldable passenger backrest, red swaybar and the 2-up rear spring. (10,983.87). (12,348.88) for 900 with same build. (13,089.80 for Rally Edition with same build with standard Aluminum Handguards).
It looks like you've done your shopping and options comparison! One thing to note... if you plan to ride 2-up, then you'll also need the MAX mount (not listed, but I'm sure you know that). The 600 might be a bit under-powered for riding 2-up in some areas (e.g. hills and faster highways), but it should be fine under most circumstances. The CVT does a good job of keeping the motor in its power curve regardless of road speed. Remember that overtaking on the highway with the 600 takes a little more planning if you're moving at higher speeds because it lacks that top-end grunt that the 900 has... and that will be more pronounced if riding 2-up. --QM
Hi I am watching your videos I have been riding a Harley and like to get a Ryker May I ask I am planning a trip to the coast which one would you get a 600/900 my friend has a victory. Speed I saw you had up to 85 how did that handle? What is the biggest difference between both bikes besides price LoL
Howdy, Monica! You could do a coast-to-coast trip on either the Ryker 600 or 900, but I'd recommend the 900 just for the extra headroom up top. The 600 runs out of steam above 80 MPH on flat ground, so it will have problems keeping up with fast traffic on the open roads... probably have trouble going up steep inclines above 70 MPH as well. I would recommend the Ryker 900 ACE instead of the Rally edition. Most owners report that the non-Rally model handles better, and that has also been my experience. You can spend that extra $$$ on upgraded suspension or other accessories. Nick and I rode our Rykers together on a few other road trips after this initial meet-up. This video is when we did a group ride with Nick on his Ryker 600 ACE and several other riders on 900's: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . You might be interested in watching this video for comparisons on faster highways: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html . Nick had trouble maintaining speed into headwinds that day on his 600, but my 900 could pull away without any problems. So, if you're planning to ride with a Victory, then the 900 is probably a better fit. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I've taken my Ryker in for the ROLO laser alignment two times, so the wandering and darting is something else intrinsic to this platform... most likely the lack of proper camber or caster on the front wheels (non-adjustable). --QM
Thx for the feedback and compliments! I'm still learning and improving my camera work and editing skills to create higher quality videos. I have lots of other vlog-type content that I don't post just so I don't bore everyone to tears. Unfortunately, most of my riding is commuting for work, so I enjoy being able to do these more interesting videos whenever possible. Thx again for the feedback, and I hope you can grab a Ryker of your own soon... get out and ride! Cheers! 👍😉 --QM
Almost looks like the sway is coming from the rear. Maybe try a different rear tire. Also check caster. Caster angle affects stability at high speeds. Toe-in provides better straight line stability at the expense or turn-in responsiveness.
Agreed... I thought the same thing after my first ride. The first thing that came to mind was a loose rear wheel hub nut or loose swingarm pivot/bushings. Neither of those were the case for me... it's just the rear tire tread pattern. The problem there is that the only "official" tire for the Rally is the same 15" Kenda tire that's on it now... no alternates are available yet. I took my bike to a local laser alignment tech, and he said that we should be able to swap for a similar size Yokohama that is used on some of the Spyders, so that's my next best hope. The alignment hasn't fixed the wandering/darting, but it did fix the constant pull to the right that the bike had when it was new. 👍 --QM
Good catch! Yes, Shawn's video was the first resource that I found back in 2019 when I got my Ryker! Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed my Ryker's handling issues. I've had it laser aligned 5 times now, and some of the front steering linkage was recently replaced... no joy so far. The newest symptom that I started experiencing last year was the right wheel wobbling side-by-side and the VSS being triggered too easily on left hand corners. The right side inner tie rod was replaced under warranty, but I'm still seeing and feeling right wheel flutter. I think that other pieces might be out of tolerances or broken... maybe ball joints or control arm bushings. I'll try to dig into it again this summer to see if I can figure out that wheel issue. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I don't own any other Can-Am bikes, so I couldn't give an owner's perspective on the other models. However, I have ridden the Spyder F3's and RT's many times so I can make some general comparisons. The F3 and RT both have power-assist rack-and-pinion steering, so that is the largest riding difference when compared to the Ryker's manual steering. The Ryker is essentially a snowmobile for asphalt and it has go-kart style direct-linkage steering. This makes it much more of a physical machine to ride because it requires a lot more physical input to wrangle the handlebars around corners and bumps. Weight is the next issue. The lowest model F3 is heavier than the Ryker by ~300 pounds, and the RT's are heavier by 400 pounds or more. Here are the weight and power specs for reference: - Ryker 600: 594 pounds (270 kg), 50 HP (37.3 kW), 36.7 ft-lb (49.7 Nm) - Ryker 900: 616 pounds (280 kg), 82 HP (61.1 kW), 58.3 ft-lb (79.1 Nm) - Spyder F3 (F3-S): 899 pounds (408 kg), 105 HP (78.3 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm) (the F3-S generates +10 HP, same as RT's) - Spyder F3 Limited: 988 pounds (448 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm) - Spyder RT: 987 pounds (449 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm) - Spyder RT Limited: 1021 (464 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm) The next big difference is the F3's and RT's are manual-shift bikes that don't have the ability to twist-and-go like the Ryker's CVT transmission. Most of the F3/RT's have with an automatic clutch, and you are forced to shift them up to higher gears (but they will automatically downshift if you forget). The Ryker is like a big scooter... just twist the throttle and go! The F3's and RT's have 1330cc Rotax triple-cylinder engines with more horsepower than the Ryker's 900cc triple, but the F3's and RT's are also pulling more weight. The acceleration of the Ryker 900 is quite good and the CVT keeps the motor in the power peak all the time. The F3-S is probably faster, but not until above 55-60 mph in a drag race (don't quote me on that... those are just my seat-of-the-pants impressions). In summary, the Ryker is more of an athletic "naked bike" and it's more suited to "focused" riding and less suitable for touring. The F3's and RT's are more comfortable for touring and have better road manners due to their higher weight and the power-assist steering. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Great video and very helpful as well , Im torn between a 2024 600 or the 900 as we speak , My biggest question whats the rpm at around 60-65 mph on the 600 tia !
@sxxkkllmmmclean7894 If you plan on riding 2-up, then you should definitely opt for the 900. The 600 runs out of steam above 75 mph or when climbing steep hills. Nick (the owner of this 600) and I rode the Texas Twisted Sisters route (very hilly and twisty) on these Rykers. My 900 Rally was able to accelerate uphill and easily maintain 80+ mph while his 600 was laboring to maintain the same pace. You can watch that adventure here: th-cam.com/video/_3mO8HmgZ2Q/w-d-xo.html Cheers, and good luck with your upcoming Ryker purchase! 😉👍 --QM
OK, will do! I ride through that area several times every week. I haven't noticed that shop, but everything over there is building out so fast that it's hard to keep up. --QM
Yep, I've been down that path already, but I didn't have any luck yet. The bike has been laser aligned twice so far. The first time fixed a constant pull to the right (toe-out) and a misaligned steering stem; the second time was an attempt to dial-in a bit more toe-in to help the high-speed wandering issue... no joy. I plan to replace the tires with different tread, replace the front wheel hubs with the 2020 model (anodized to resist rusting), and have a different dealer re-align the front end. Hopefully that will resolve the bizarre tracking issues... we'll see! Cheers! 👍 --QM
I am sure that this information is down in your comment somewhere, but you need to upgrade your sway bar in your links. I don’t know why it doesn’t come standard when BRP knows the issue, maybe they’re just supporting the aftermarket.
I'm hearing that most 900's seem more "twitchy" that most 600's. I'm guessing that is because of the added weight of the 900 engine in the same frame and suspension as the 600. I rented a Rally for a few days and noticed it was twitchy but it was really my first experience on a 3 wheel motorcycle so I was expecting some major differences. I did like it well enough that I've purchased two 900's (for my wife and I) and I'm just waiting for them to arrive at the dealership. Still not getting rid of my Concours 14 just yet.
I don't think it's the 900's in general... it seems to be more of a Rally edition issue. The difference could be due to the higher ground clearance that is affecting the steering geometry. My Rally is down for a few months right now pending a complete front suspension rebuild/replacement. It developed a new (dangerous) condition where the right wheel was shuddering and wobbling at higher speeds (I haven't had time to edit or post those videos yet). During fast left-hand turns (right suspension loaded), the bike wobbles and swerves side-to-side and won't track a line. It has always been flighty in a straight line, but it always cornered well until now. I think the ball joints and/or control arm bushings are defective, which would explain why I've always had stability and alignment issues with my bike. I will start a warranty claim with BRP to see if they will fix the problem first. If they can't/won't fix it, then I will just purchase all of the parts (e.g., left and right side upper & lower control arms, ball joints, chassis bushings, etc) and fix this issue. I'm tired of messing around with realignments that are only putting band-aids on the underlying problems. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I thank you very much for sharing this video. My wife and I are trying to figure out the better Ryker for her. I ride a Victory motorcycle 106 cubic inch motor. And we do a lot of highway riding... My bike loves to run around 80 mph. That is the comfort zone on that bike. Wasn't sure if the 600 would comfortably maintain that or if we should jump her up to the 900?
I'm glad to help! You should definitely go for the 900 ACE to run those speeds comfortably. The 600 ACE runs out of steam at ~80 mph, so it would have problems keeping up with your Victory on the open road. I would advise against the Rally edition because of the handling problems that I've had with mine, and many other Rally owners seem to echo my sentiments. It's just something about the taller ride height and the all-season tires that make it a bit more twitchy than the non-Rally models. If you need/want the rear mount for the passenger seat or other luggage options, then you can always add those pieces for a little more money. However, the one thing my Rally (900 ACE) has plenty of... is POWER. I have run it flat-out against the rev-limiter (102-103 mph) nonstop for an entire tank of fuel (~140 miles or 1.5 hours) and it didn't mind a bit. --QM
Haven't been down in that kneck of the woods in a long time....I'm on the Tinker side of town..thx for the review on the 600!!! Thinking on trading my car for one of these
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad to help (if encouraging someone to spend money is "helping") 🤣 The 600 ACE has plenty of power if you don't plan on riding at speeds above the posted limits or roasting the rear tire at every stoplight. You might want to test ride both the 600 and 900 just so you can feel the difference. The 900 also has riding modes (e.g. ECO, Normal, Sport) while the 600 doesn't have any ride modes. If you haven't watched my Red Dirt Ryker's meet-up, you might want to check out that series to see how well the 600 hangs with a troop of 900's: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
At 8:10 you mentioned cruise control. I was under the impression that feature was an aftermarket lock-type. Is that not the case? Haven't got a Ryker yet but prepping to get a Rally next spring/summer. Trying to learn as much as I can about them and buy aftermarket stuff to make my ride as comfortable as possible.
I hacked a GoCruise throttle lock to work with my Rally edition ( th-cam.com/video/KPAomxzdCiE/w-d-xo.html ), and I've been using that since I've owned my bike. In the early portion of this video, I'm riding Nick's Ryker 600 that doesn't have the handguards fitted yet... those are necessary for the GoCruise to have a stopper (the Ryker doesn't have a front brake lever like other bikes). You can see the cruise control in the last few minutes of this video. Nick has installed the handguards and also done my cruise control hack since this was filmed. Let me know if you have any other questions about gear or add-ons and I'll be happy to help with my opinions and what did or didn't work for my riding style. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Unfortunately, I tried that route several times without success. I was the first Ryker owner in Texas, and NONE of the local dealers had the experience or tools to align these machines correctly for 6-12 months after the initial deliveries. I eventually found an independent Spyder maintenance shop on the north side of Houston who was the first in Texas to purchase the ROLO laser alignment tools. I paid out of my pocket to have this Ryker aligned 5 separate times with only temporary relief from the darting and wandering isuses. Can-Am refused to cover ANY of the repairs, even under the extended "B.E.S.T." warranty. I finally lost faith in the machine after the final $1300 repair (alignment, blown CVT, etc) and sold it to a new owner. My Can-Am ownership experience was abysmal to sy the least. 😒👎 --QM
The oversensitive steering can be taken care of by a steering stabilizer shock. That’s my opinion and I’m gonna put a steering stabilizer on my Can-Am Ryker
It’s likely that you need a little toe-in on your front wheels. Laser alignment is worthless. The more toe-out the front is, the more wandering and heading for the ditches it is. Another solution is a steering stabilizer (not dampener) like on an RV or jeep…
Agreed, that's the usual culprit. I had that Ryker realigned 6 different times, but none of those sessions provided lasting results. We tried varying amounts of toe-in to fix the erratic behavior, but it always reverted back to chaos within a few hundred miles. The Ryker's steering geometry is primary design problem because there is no damping or mechanical advantage over the system (e.g., steering damper, rack and pinion, etc). The other major fault in the design is no provision for caster or camber adjustment. Can-Am's larger trikes (e.g., Spyder, RT) have adjustable camber, toe, and rear thrust angle; however, the Ryker only offers toe adjustment. I eventually sold the Ryker in October 2024, and the new owner advised that they replaced all of the steering components. They found a bad ball joint on the right side and a failed center bushing on the steering shaft. Those components were faulty from the beginning, but Can-Am/BRP refused to repair them under warranty even after multiple service visits and factory recall issues. Those problems, combined with other critical safety issues, forced me to sell the Ryker. Based on Can-Am's horrible customer service and disregard for their customers' safety, I won't own another Can-Am product. 😒 --QM
Yes, the front tires are the same size on both models, but the rear wheel on the Rally is 15" instead of 16". The only "approved" tires by Can-Am/BRP are the original Kenda's that are on the bike now. The non-Rally models have street-oriented tread, and the Rally model has all-season tires with a different tread pattern. The all-season tread tends to wander and follow pavement grooves on the highway more than the street tread that the non-Rally models have. I do have the stiffer BRP sway bar installed on my Rally... it makes a huge difference in handling and reducing body roll in corners. --QM
I enjoyed your #Ride video!👍🏼🙏 Nothing like enjoying the day with your brother. "My brother doesn't ride" Thinking about getting one after selling my 2014 Honda CTX-700 motorcycle that I ride 20 minutes from time to time. Thx for sharing! #CypressTexas
Distracted drivers is why I don’t ride anymore. I almost got hit in my SUV 3 times in 1 day, got one of them on my dash cam. If I was on a bike, I would of been road kill.
Yep, cagers on cell phones are a real hazard to everyone... particularly motorcyclists. I've never been down on the street in my riding career, but it's a constant battle to keep it that way. 👍 --QM
The aluminum handguard frames are included with the Ryker Rally edition. The plastic deflectors are Can-Am factory accessories that can be added to those frames. Both pieces can be added to the non-Rally Rykers as well. Here is the Can-Am accessory page for reference: can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/us/en/accessories/ryker-accessories/windshields-wind-protections.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Watched several Ryker videos and there does seem to be a relationship between tracking and shocks dealing both with type and setting. You may also consider tire tread differences I have found some tread patterns want to wonder cars, bike both. There is a video out where he actually changes to an aftermarket shock and it cured his tracking problem, but that was an advertisement. I think I would experiment with shock settings and tire pressures and note what changes produce. Note: One change at a time.
Agreed! The suspension/shock settings will certainly play a factor in the Ryker's road manners. I have a fair bit of experience tuning bike and car suspension from my younger years. I haven't played with the suspension settings on my Ryker very much yet. The only changes so far have been to the alignment and reducing the front spring preload down from #3 to #2. I will tinker around with the front'rear spring preload to adjust the rider sag to see if I can settle the bike a bit more for my riding weight (it barely drops at all when I sit on it). --QM
@@jacksloan3516 The non-Rally models (600 or 900) don't have adjustable settings for the front shocks. Both of those models do have a rear spring preload stepper-collar, but no adjustable compression/rebound settings. The Rally edition has adjustable front spring preload (threaded collars), but no compression/rebound settings. The Rally's rear shock has spring preload (threaded collar) and an adjustable damping setting via a 4-position remote reservoir.. but I'm not sure if it affects compression, rebound, or both. I suspect that it affects compression damping only as depicted in the passenger seat documentation (instructions show to bump it up to the maximum of #4). BRP does offer fully-adjustable FOX shocks as an accessory/upgrade for the Ryker, but I haven't seen them in person yet. --QM
Thanks for the video! I am researching can-am Ryker 600 because I am thinking 🤔 about buying it right now I have Piaggio mp3 250IE and not made for HWY because top speed 70!♤
Thanks for the feedback! You will probably love the Ryker 600 if you're already riding a Piaggio MP3. The Ryker doesn't lean like the MP3, but it's still twist-and-go... very simple to ride. The Ryker's engine performance and handling are in a completely different league compared to the MP3... much faster, more sure-footed, and it's virtually impossible to tip over (roll over). The Ryker 600's highway manners are good, and it can maintain relatively high speeds for hours at a time. The top speed is 85-90 MPH under most conditions, but heavy headwinds or steep inclines can reduce that to about 75-80 MPH. Here is one of my ride videos with Nick (same Rykers as in this video) when we took a recent trip to Arkansas in heavy winds: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html The Ryker doesn't have any useful storage capacity, so you'll need to consider adding the MAX mount and a rear carrier, or the SHAD saddlebag and mount if you want to carry anything with you. Good luck shopping! Cheers! 👍 --QM
If you’re ever back out in OKC, let me know as well. I’d love to meet up and ride with you. I’ve watched most of your videos and it’s always quality content. Seriously though, please, let me know. Also, the dealership you were talking about working at 30 years ago? It’s called Reynolds Ford now and it’s been there for YEARS! I’ve even purchased one of my mustangs from there. Ride safe sir!
Thx for the feedback and the video compliment! Yessir, that's the dealer! I worked there very briefly back in the early 90's just for a change of pace. I've always been a car and gear junkie, so I thought that might be an interesting job at the time. I couldn't do the high-pressure car sales bit though, so I had to move on after just a couple of months. I didn't really need the money at the time... it was just to try something new/different. I will certainly keep in touch with you and @fattywithafirearm for my future visits to the OKC area. Maybe we can round up a few more Ryker owners and have a group meet-up or short destination ride somewhere... maybe a lunch run or a short motocamping trip. --QM
My wife isn't into the tricycle riding thing either. I wish I can have the 900 and get her the 600 and we both can go for summer day rides but she won't. Heck I bought a little Troy built zero turn and she was scared of it. It took her a few year's of me having it before she tried it and I could walk faster than she was going..lol
That sounds like my wife... she just doesn't have the moto gene in her DNA. I tried several times over the past 20 years to get her interested in riding, both as a passenger and as a pilot, but it's just not her thing. That's OK, though... she supports my hobby and it lets me have my "me time" to enjoy the rides without worrying about pleasing someone that just isn't interested. Maybe your wife would like riding as a passenger on the Ryker... it's a very different experience than riding on a motorcycle because it doesn't lean in corners (no sensation of tipping over). Cheers, and good luck with your shopping! 👍 --QM
On which bike? The flat black panel on the black bike (600) is the gauge spoiler (a miniature windscreen). The silver reflective bit on the yellow bike (900 Rally) is the RiderScan blind spot mirror: th-cam.com/video/gNQ-TtpdmeM/w-d-xo.html . The other two flat plates on my Rally would be the wind deflector behind the windscreen (part of the same unit), and the other smaller black plate on the handlebars is a GoPro Remote mount. --QM
Howdy, David! Yes, I still have my Ryker, but it's parked for a while. I've had alignment problems with my Rally since day one, and it recently developed a new symptom that sidelined it until I have time to repair the issue. The right wheel started fluttering/wobbling side-to-side at freeway speeds and during fast left-hand corners (right suspension loaded). I was able to observe the wobble on camera when I took it back to park it at my warehouse. I'll be editing and posting that video soon. My Ryker is still under warranty, so I plan to open a case with Can-Am to see if they will repair whatever is faulty. I suspect that the ball joint(s) and/or control arm bushings are bad and they are what is causing the wheel flutter. A few other Ryker owners have reported similar failures of ball joints on their bikes, so that's probably the issue with my bike as well. If Can-Am can't (or won't) replace the suspension on my Ryker, then I'll just purchase all of the parts and do it myself. The parts total for the entire front suspension will be ~$1400 (left and right side: upper & lower control arms, ball joints, bushings, ball joints, steering knuckles, etc). Otherwise, the engine and drivetrain have been flawless. I really enjoy the Ryker, and it has great potential for touring and casual riding. Unfortunately, I've been fighting these suspension issues since I purchased it, and I'm just tired of messing around. So, it's time to hit it with a bigger hammer and fix these problems permanently! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard that’s really sad can-am is putting the situation 2 U I am going to have to Find a different motorcycle to buy Love from Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Awesome feedback. Did you notice the seat height difference between the rally and 600? Are it's really not much of a difference? Looking at getting a 900 ace or rally.
Thx for the feedback! There is no appreciable difference in seat height between the 3 models (600ACE, 900ACE, and Rally). I've been recommending to most prospective owners to skip the Rally edition and go for the 900ACE instead. The "rally mode" is just a gimmick, and the all-season tires don't ride or track as well as the "normal" tires from the non-Rally Rykers. Most of the Rally's upgrades can be put on the 900 if you want/need them... but you can pick and choose to save some money. You can add the MAX mount and Linq accessories only if you need them, and then spend $1000-1500 on better suspension from Elka or Fox (the factory KYB's aren't that great) and an upgraded sway bar. 😉👍 --QM
The 900 runs about 300-400 RPM slower, so it's turning ~5850 at the same speed. The 900 is much more capable on the highway vs the 600 when speeds rise above 75 MPH. The headroom that the 900 offers in terms of top-end and acceleration are definitely worth the added expense in MSRP vs the 600 ACE, in my opinion. Nick's Ryker 600 struggled to maintain speed into headwinds and hills, but the 900 soldiered on without breaking a sweat: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html . The 600 pales in comparison to the 900 when the speeds are above 70 MPH. 😉👍 --QM
Really looking at Ryker, also here in Houston, if you couldn’t be under a covered spot what do you do to battle the Htown heat when you aren’t on it, and not in a garage? Jacket preference for protection and also okay for houston heat?
Welcome, fellow Houstonian! If the bike isn't covered from the sun, then the seat is going to get really hot. I have the AirHawk Cruiser Large seat pad on mine, so it cools off really quickly when you sit down. You could get the outdoor cover for it, but it's really large and heavy... probably not something you want to carry around with you. The heat output from the Ryker itself isn't too bad, and most of it flows away from you when you're in motion (radiator is mounted in the front chin area). The motor and exhaust are far enough away that your legs don't get cooked when sitting still. As for the riding gear, I always ride with helmet, jacket, gloves, and boots (unless I'm just going around the corner to the grocery store). The jacket, gloves, and boots are ventilated mesh (textile), so that helps with the heat management as long as I'm moving... but sitting still in the heat sucks, period. I typically wear a modular helmet (flip-up chin bar), which is a nice convenience and it can help to cool down my face and head when I'm stuck in traffic. If you aren't accustomed to riding in Houston heat, then it might take a while to get comfortable with your riding gear selection and managing the heat issues. For really hot days, I have a cooling vest that fits underneath my mesh jacket. It's a textile vest that you soak in water, and then wring out the excess. Airflow past it creates an evaporative cooling effect that helps under the right conditions (sitting still isn't one of them). Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll be happy to help! --QM
I've been looking for so long and can't find any good 0-60 mph videos, I found some from europe but they seem to slow? Every where I look in the comments people say it's around 6 seconds but in the video it was around 9, I just want to see one video where the 0-60 is seconds for the can am ryker
The 900 ACE (or Rally edition) can make the 0-60 run in about 6 seconds. You can watch my "Ryker meets Monster" video here to see how it compares to my 2013 Ducati Monster 1100 Evo: th-cam.com/video/myU-Fszubxk/w-d-xo.html . At 8m36s of that video, I make a hard 0-60 mph run: th-cam.com/video/myU-Fszubxk/w-d-xo.html&t=516s . The Ryker could probably do it in the low 5-second range (or faster), but the problem is traction... too much rear wheel spin causes the traction control to step in. So you lost momentum and the computer retarding engine power at the same time. A really sticky rear tire would help with the hard launches. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Does anyone have issues with their mirrors shaking? I have contacted BRP to address the issue because it is definitely a safety issue. I can't make out any vehicles past 60mph
Several owners have commented about that problem, and it seems to affect some riders more than others. Maybe it's the difference between the 900 (triple) and 600 (twin) engine vibrations? I have replaced my mirrors with the CRG Lane Splitter's and I don't have any problem with vibration... the image is rock-solid at all speeds (idle is still shaky, but viewable). --QM
No, I didn't video that install, but I could redo mine for you if you're interested. It's very easy to get the original mirrors out if you have the TORX bit (T-20, if I remember correctly). The CRG bar-end adapters install very easily with a standard 5mm hex/Allen key. If you order the CRG mirrors, be sure to get a PAIR of mirrors and a PAIR of bar-end adapters... I accidentally ordered a single adapter on one occasion, then had to wait another few days for the second order to arrive... oops. Here are the Amazon links for the ones on my Ryker: CRG EXO LS left mirror ($80.06): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DZ8YT6 CRG EXO LS right mirror ($80.06): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RXKG39 Bar-end adapters ($16.20 x2): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7JD92 The mirrors that I have are the "EXO" model with the exoskeleton pattern on the back, so they are slightly more expensive. You can get the cheaper version (like I have on my Honda Super Cub) with the smooth back for only $66/each: CRG Hindsight LS left: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CC3YE CRG Hindsight LS right: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041C94TG The bar-end adapters will be the same as above. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to help! --QM
Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem for my Ryker. I have done the laser alignment on my Rally two times... the first time helped cure the constant pull to the right, and the second time was to add a little more toe-in to see if that would help the straight-line tracking. It still wanders around at freeway speeds and darts toward road imperfections and dips (or off-camber surfaces). I'm still searching for the cure... new tires with street-oriented tread are next. 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Clearly whoever is doing it for you doesn't know how to do it properly. Since your Ryker is still fairly new you should call CanAM and see if they can recommend a dealership who they can get in touch with and have to get the issue shorted out. Then take it there, have them test ride it to verify the problem so they can relay the info back to CanCAM properly just in case, in worst case you have a lemon. :(
I might take a trip to a dealer in east Texas that was recommended by another Ryker owner in the SpyderLovers.com forum. He said that his dealer laser-aligned his bike and it tracks perfect now... so, maybe a road trip is coming up! --QM
@@QuasiMotard I understand, but keep in mind CanAM themselves are the GODS for your vehicle, they would know best than any dealership. So it wouldn't hurt to get them involved, maybe other people have complained about this to them and they know a more direct way of fixing it. :)
@@dhowser2008 I was going to suggest "toe in" and you've already tried that! I bet its the tires following the grooves in the road surface. You can get this in Autos but it's somewhat ameliorated by having two wheels at the back
The Ryker can be used as a daily rider, but it has some pros/cons vs a motorcycle. The stability of the reverse-trike platform and all of the advanced rider aids (e.g,. traction control, stability control, etc) are definitely better than a motorcycle in almost all respects. Rain rides are almost comforting on the Ryker because you never need to worry about dropping the bike, and losing control while in motion is much less likely due to the Ryker's stability controls ( th-cam.com/video/-QSYaoaBBps/w-d-xo.html ). You also cannot split lanes or avoid road debris as easily on a Ryker as you could on a motorcycle due to the three independent wheel tracks; one of the three wheels is likely to hit the item on the road... potholes, ripples, road debris, etc. Motorcycles have two wheels but only a single inline track, so it's easier to swerve around road issues. The Ryker's front wheel track is as wide as a Smart ForTwo, so riding on the shoulder or squeezing between other vehicles to avoid a nasty situation is more difficult or impossible (e.g., getting through to dedicated turn lanes in deep queues of traffic is a common scenario... that's a big time saver on a motorcycle that doesn't work on the Ryker). The Ryker's fuel economy is much lower than any typical motorcycles regardless of displacement... so that makes it less than ideal as a commuter vehicle. My lifetime average on my Ryker Rally 900 is 29.7 MPG (US) with mixed city commuting and long-distance touring ( www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/can-am/ryker_rally_900/2019/quasimotard/887879 ). Any of my motorcycles return better fuel economy (next lowest is 38.9 MPG on a sport bike). That could make a difference if you commute long distances... fuel prices are always going to rise over time. I recommend taking the Can-Am Learn to Ride course ( can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/en/learn-to-ride/registration.html ) to see if the Ryker or a Spyder works for your needs. Good luck shopping and I hope you find a good fit! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
How can you see the top of the wheel and tell if it’s negative or positive camber...? When all you can see from behind is the finders on the front...? Maybe your finder is not straight...?
That effect is probably an optical illusion created by the upper width of the wheel's fender. Positive camber is when the top of the wheel is tilted outward relative to the bottom of the wheel... and that is NEVER good for a road vehicle (great for tractors that are digging into the dirt). A small amount of negative camber is generally good for road vehicles because it settles the front wheels and prevents "darty" steering. Race vehicles usually have a considerable amount of negative camber and also slight toe-in to aid in high-speed tracking. Cheers! 👍 --QM
The weights are 594 lbs (600 ACE), 616 lbs (900 ACE), and 627 lbs (900 Rally). Weight will certainly play some factor in the front-end stability, but the jury is still out on how much weight is really needed to "plant" the front wheels. The BRP engineers that I spoke with a couple of months ago said that all Rykers are calibrated for a rider that weighs 170-190 pounds. I am on the lower end of that scale when fully geared up (e.g. boots, jacket, helmet, etc). Unfortunately, I haven't found any other Ryker (or Rally) owners that are roughly my height and weight, so I am just theorizing that I might not be heavy enough for the suspension settings or particular "rider sag" that the suspension expects. Note that weight plays a significant role in the front wheel alignment and suspension geometry, particularly for the toe-in values (toe-in reduces with more weight on the bike and gets closer to zero-toe as weight increases). James Thorne ( www.thornolis.com ) is our local expert on Can-Am Spyder/Ryker (reverse-trike) suspension geometry, so he is my source for this information regarding the Ryker's behavior. --QM
Thanks for the feedback! I don't know of any steering stabilizers that are made specifically for the Ryker, but it might be possible to fit a universal damper on there. The stabilizer would need to be compact and very stiff because it doesn't take very much movement in the steering linkage to translate to a lot of steering angle. The Ryker's steering is essentially go-kart linkage, so it doesn't have mechanical advantage like a rack-and-pinion system in cars or the larger Can-Am Spyders. 😉👍 --QM
I'm 6'5" and 275lbs, will I have an acceptable amount of room on the Ryker? Since a number of spinal surgeries, riding a two wheel bike is out of the question.
I think you would probably fit OK on the Ryker 900 (or Rally), but you might want to look at the Spyder F3 instead. The F3 is physically larger and has more legroom that would allow you to stretch out. If you have back problems, the F3 will also be easier to handle because it has power-assist rack-and-pinion steering versus the manual (go-kart) steering of the Ryker. I recommend going to a dealer and sit on both bikes to get a feel for the ergonomics. Arrange a test ride on both of them if you can... that will let you experience the handling and steering differences between the two bikes. Good luck with your shopping and I hope that you can find a fit on 3 wheels! Cheers! 👍 --QM
No, I've thought about it, but haven't really decided to go down that path. If I trade or sell the Ryker, then I'm not sure what would take its place. The F3's and RT's are interesting, but they are a bit too big and heavy for my commute duties. --QM
No, the Ryker 600ACE doesn't have enough torque to spin the rear wheel at-will like the 900ACE can. However, none of the Rykers (including the Rally edition) will maintain a power slide or drifting for more than a few seconds... and that's at a relatively low speed. The stability control steps in too easy and too often to allow the rear wheel to step out and continue spinning. You can see an example of that here: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
That is the RiderScan blind spot mirror. You can watch my install and review video here: th-cam.com/video/gNQ-TtpdmeM/w-d-xo.html . Check the video description for links to the manufacturer's site and also to Amazon's product page where you can order one. --QM
Update on the RiderScan mirrors: I received a reply from the new UK dealer today ( www.sportouring.co.uk/ ) stating that they should have a new production batch of RiderScan mirrors in 6-8 weeks. I will keep in touch with them regarding the availability and advise when I get more info. --QM
My 1330 cc spyder will do 60 mph in second gear. I rode a ryker and personally didn't care for it. Nice video hope you guys get plenty of enjoyment out of your machines
Thx for the feedback! The 900 ACE is plenty quick for me. I hope to resolve the alignment and twitchy highway manners one day... then I'll be able to enjoy my Ryker on longer road trips without fighting it so much. --QM
@@QuasiMotard my spyder used to track to the right then I got an alignment and changed the stock rear tire and that cured it alot of people also upgrade their sway bar and that helps stiffen it up from sway
@@larzman651 I haven't done the tire swaps yet, because the Ryker uses a proprietary front tire size... Kenda is the only supplier right now. The rear size is somewhat common, so an aftermarket or automotive equivalent may work. However, I have done the ROLO laser alignment twice, and this thing still darts all over the road. There is no relaxing and enjoying the ride... it's always a fight to keep it within a lane of traffic. --QM
I had a RevZilla sticker on the rear fender of my bike (the yellow Rally) for a while, but I took it off a while back. I left the RevZilla stickers on the engine side covers, and one of them blends in to say "RykerZLA". 👍 --QM
Howdy, Bud! The screen on my Ryker in this video is the Can-Am Sport windshield ( can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/en/shop/ryker-accessories/wind-protection.html ), but they no longer sell that model. I have since upgraded to the MadStad Engineering adjustable windscreen ( madstad.com/collections/can-am/products/can-am-ryker-2019 ), and it is MUCH better for coverage and features. My height is 5'7" (170 cm) and I chose the MadStad 18" screen, but I would recommend the 20" instead for slightly better coverage. MadStad has a measuring chart on their site to help find the correct height. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The 600 ACE in this video has seen 90-92 mph reliably, and has reportedly reached 100-102 mph under the right conditions. The 900 ACE and Rally can easily run right up to the speed-limiter at 102-105 mph every time. There are ECU flash kits for the 900's that remap the engine performance and remove the speed-limiter, so the 900's can reportedly reach 125-135 mph. The high-speed stability is good if you are on flat roads without too many ruts or cambered surfaces. Pavement ripples or off-camber surfaces can make the Ryker a serious handful at triple-digit speeds. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
My lifetime average for my Ryker 900 Rally is 29.7 MPG over 11K miles. It typically ranges from 28-31 MPG in mixed city & highway commuting. You can check my stats on Fuelly here: www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/can-am/ryker_rally_900/2019/quasimotard/887879 . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
No, the Sypder RT and F3 are heavier and have different steering/suspension geometry, so they are definitely more stable... straight-line tracking is much better than the Ryker. The Ryker has a shorter wheelbase, lighter weight, and a quicker steering ratio, so it tends to be a bit more "nervous" at freeway speeds. I have noticed that my Ryker feels more stable with more weight on board... it seems to plant it better. I took a ride on the Ryker a few days ago with my son as pillion (combined weight of ~310 pounds), and my Ryker handled much better... kind of counter-intuitive, but it was definitely less "twitchy". Cheers! 👍 --QM
I use the Go Cruise 7/8" throttle lock (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TIEATVY). I added a short piece of heater hose to the end of the plastic to let it reach the Ryker's handguard: th-cam.com/video/KPAomxzdCiE/w-d-xo.html . It works very well, and the total cost was under $20! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard OK, I was trying that but it does not grip the throttle hard enough and so will only hold the speed for a few seconds. I thought in one of your videos I saw you had the Atlas Throttle Lock connected to your Ryker.... May have been someone else. I've watched so many Spyder/Ryker videos on TH-cam I can't keep them straight anymore..... :)
@@gregkamer3754 I've had that same problem on my Ryker... the GoCruise slips a bit because the grips are too squishy. The black rubber band that comes with the GoCruise helps to reduce the slippage. My grips are wearing out, so I will be replacing them with ProGrip 714's early next week. I'll let you know if that helps or not. 👍 --QM
They are a hoot to ride, for sure! If you decide to buy one, then grill your dealer on the alignment issue and all of the TSB's or recalls to be sure that the bike is COMPLETELY ready to ride. It seems that most of the newer owners aren't experiencing many the issues that I've had with mine, so us early adopters were the test pilots. 🤣 --QM
Also do know the ralley is the only model that has a radiator guard. Cost me a pretty penny to replace my radiator before I found out my 600 didnt have a radiator guard
I think that's part of the issue, which has been one of my suspicions since the very first day of ownership. These "all-season" tires on the Rally just don't seem to be matched well to the bike... whether it's the track width, weight bias, wheelbase, or whatever. These tires are really nasty on grooved pavement and change direction violently... more than any other vehicle that I've ever owned or driven. I will probably replace the front tires with the non-Rally (street) tires from the other Rykers. The rear tire should be a common enough size to find a street-oriented alternative. We'll see how that plays out. I'm still convinced that the only "real" fix for the high-speed wandering is adjustable camber plates... that's a much bigger issue to resolve. --QM
@@iluvbiggirlz420 As far as I know, the Rally and non-Rally wheels are interchangeable. The front tires sizes are the same, but the Rally has a different tread pattern (street vs all-season). The rear wheel and tire are 15" on the Rally and 16" on the non-Rally. The wheel construction for the Rally is supposed to be stronger to take more abuse for people that might take the Rally off-road (not a good idea considering the low ground clearance and radiator hovering ~5" off the ground). There aren't any aftermarket wheels for it yet, but that could change in the future. --QM
My Rally edition's first oil change was $146.72. Here is the breakdown of the oil service parts and fees: $ 3.59 420552280 O-RING $ 2.59 420950141 RING-SEALING $14.39 420956123 FILTER-OIL $41.36 779133 OIL 4T 5W40 SYNTH BLEND QT (x4) $ 9.99 420230920 O-RING -------- $71.92 Parts total $74.80 0.8 hr SHOP LABOR ==== $146.72 TOTAL --QM
Yes, I stayed in Edmond during this trip. I won't be headed back up there on the Ryker for a while, but I will be moving some personal items in a moving truck from there back to Houston in a few weeks. --QM
Absolutely! The Ryker 600 ACE is a very capable machine. Nick ( @fattywithafirearm ) has ridden his Ryker 600 from Oklahoma City down into Texas and Arkansas several times. The 600 will maintain freeway speeds without any trouble, and it can maintain 80-85 into moderate headwinds and inclines without struggling too much. The seat comfort might be a pain (literally), so you might consider adding the Can-Am "comfort seat" ( can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/us/en/219400795-driver-comfort-seat.html ) or the AirHawk Cruiser R Large seat cushion ( amzn.to/3wlCr9a ) to help with the long-haul comfort. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@jmore3479 Yes, that's correct... the same physical size for all models. The 900 ACE and Rally edition are slightly heavier than the 600, but the physical dimensions are the same. The Rally sits about 0.5-1.0" higher because of the upgraded suspension, but it's not really noticeable from the rider's perspective. 👍 --QM
I've been sitting here reading all your comments 30 years been paralyzed and I think I'm going to get one of them motorcycles y'all riding I think it's time to get back on two wheels again now that's a automatic CVT
heck ya get after it good luck
I believe you should as well! Godspeed
You want a spyder. It will be able to ride it and mount it way easier than a Riker.
I’ve been in a chair for 35 years and I got my Ryker 600 a year ago. Freaking love it!
@@rickbaker1015 get anything to get you back on the road. Canam is perfect for the application. And it's really nice to ride.
The spouse and I are both considering buying a Ryker for each of us. I appreciate the video and the comparison. You're very clear about the differences. Super helpful! I'm now more convinced I want the 900 lol.
Thx for the feedback! I was pleasantly surprised at the 600's growl and good power delivery. The 900 is certainly faster and has more torque, but the 600 should suffice for anyone that doesn't plan to ride 2-up or travel for extended periods above 80 mph on the highway. You might be interested in my Red Dirt Ryker's meetup ride series, where I rode with several other Rykers... mostly 900's and the same 600 again: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . The 600 was able to keep up with us just fine until we got up to triple-digit speeds. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I'm shocked at the power of the 600. Never thought it would do 90mph. Fantastic Fun ride ! also I like your idea of the added brake lights
90 or around 140km is normal highway speed in many countries .. 40-50 miles is dangerous for highway speed in other countries .
@@weld3z 90 is cruising speed on CA highways, though posted limit is usually around 65-70
This is one of my favorite videos being I lived in the OKC area and I love seeing the difference in the 600 and 900 Rykers.
I was just back up in OKC last weekend for a Ryker meet-up ride with the Red Dirt Rykers. I'm editing that video series now and I should have it posted soon. Stay tuned for that! 👍 --QM
I’ve ridden the 600, the 900, and a spyder F3’s, and so far I’ve loved the 600 out of all of them, I found that the 900 throttle was really twitchy, great ride, cheers
I had a 2021 600 but I let everyone with 900s tell me I need a 900 now I'm torn. But I looooved my 600(it's gone🥺)
One of the first videos I watched on my journey to owning a Ryker! Absolutely love my 2021 Ryker 900 ACE. Thanks 4 the informative video!
Thanks for that 600 review. That’s the one I want someday.
We bought the 600 Ryker for the missus. Due to California ARB emissions laws, it’s the only one we could find but I was pleased with the power and like the sound of the twin better. I really appreciate your comparison video. Thanks!
Hello fellow Californian. The 900s should be coming out at the beginning/middle of next month. I've been hearing between the 10th and 15th from my local dealer. Cant wait to pick one up!
what a great ride and beautiful scenery....!! luv the place and please let these vids keep on coming !!!
I just bought a used 2021 Ryker 900 mine is doing the back and forth also. When the wind is blowing its even worse.. thank you for the video.
Awsome thanks for video. I have been riding the 600 for the last 6 months.i have been looking for a video showing 900 and 600 side by side speed..damn, i want the 900 now... but I still love my 600.
You need a laser alignment on the front wheels. Kudos to Mr. Smoke and the team at ProCaliber in Washington. Every can am roadster is laser aligned .
Yep, I've had the ROLO laser alignment done on my Rally twice already. The first alignment fixed a bad toe-out condition (hard pull to the right). The second one was an attempt to cure the tail wag a bit more (dialed in another 0.5 degree of toe-in), but it didn't seem to make any difference. --QM
Simple cure for the twitch: replace your factory sway bar and sway bar end links. I bought a used 2019 last month (May 2024), and it scared hell out of me - especially on curves and rough roads. Replacing the sway bar with a BajaRon three-piece bar, , and the end links with some generic ones off Amazon, made an amazing difference.
Good tips! I replaced the original sway bar with the upgraded BRP bar (+30% stiffer) just a couple of weeks after getting my Ryker. I still had the factory end links on there (plastic), but the steering issues were more involved with my Ryker. I paid to have it laser aligned 5 times without any success.
Some of the steering components were finally replaced 3 years later under a factory recall, but none of those "fixes" worked for my bike. I finally decided to sell it in August 2023. The new owner advised that they replaced the steering center bushings, the right side ball joints, and right side control arm bushings... which finally resolved the erratic steering and handling issues.
Can-Am refused to acknowledge that those parts were faulty from the assembly line, and they would't cover the diagnosis or replacement under my factory warranty or the 4-year extended warranty that I purchased. Unfortunately, I think that will probably be the first and last Can-Am product I'll ever own. 😒 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Interesting to hear what the fix involved, and depressing to hear Can-Am wouldn't stand behind their product.
Mine had 9000 miles over five years when I bought it last month, and there seems to have been no substantive issues with it - aside from the squirrely steering, which the last owner didn't realize was a bug.
I picked it up for $5000, because the seller is retiring to Mexico and decided it would draw unwanted attention from both sides of the law. He originally listed it for $7000, and had no takers. His loss, my gain.
It came with an upgraded seat, side color panels, a windshield and a parking lever lock
By far the most attention I get is from young children; they absolutely love it. My wife says that should tell me something.... 😁
It’s always humid in OKC except in the winter time. You can’t have F 5 tornados without humidity. NM sends you guys thee cold fronts into that warm humid air stream from the Gulf Coast. Buy for your wife and give it to me. 🤪. Now if you’re head West you must be headed my way. Yep, you’re on I 40. And 66 will still bring yourself onto ABQ. How large a gas tank on both? I’m watching this Wednesday evening. Wait until you get a hurricane in Houston. Thanks, enjoyed the ride and info.
I’m getting a 600 in just a few days. Thanks for your videos.
How do you like your 600?
@@jauwannr I just drove it into Fort Wayne, Indiana from Hicksville, Ohio. It runs great and has plenty of get up and go. I got it up to 91 mph but the highways around this area are 55 mph. Unless you get on one of the freeways which is 70 mph. So it’s plenty of machine. I get around 40 mpg if I don’t get on the throttle to much.
@@pjfrog10 nice.. I'll be getting one soon
Can you drift in wet and dry with 600 cc?
Is it enough for strong drifting?
@@canerkurt1391 not for drifting. Get a rally for that.
It's probably alignment in the front. So if your toe in is set perfectly parallel as in 0⁰ toe then it will wander around. If theres 5⁰ toe in it will have a tendency to wash side to side as tires grab. Suspension movement can exaggerate it. Depending on tires and suspension stiffness that should be something that can be adjusted out. Or possibly a steering dampener shock? It could be a design flaw? Ultimately it needs to be tight enough on the toe in so that it responds without a bunch of slop.
Yeah, we've gone around and around with it. I had the ROLO laser alignment done initially to resolve an out of spec condition where it was constantly pulling to the right. We set the toe at the factory spec of ~2⁰, straightened the handlebars to center, and then reset the steering angle sensor... that helped but didn't eliminate the wandering ("tail-wag"). I took it back a second time to add a bit more toe-in (another ~1-1.5⁰) to see if that would help, but it's still the same story. The only significant changes that have worked were fixing the alignment originally and then reducing the front spring preload (factory was set at #3, we dropped to #2 and then I dropped it again down to ~1.5).
The front end does have a tiny bit of negative camber that's baked-in, but it's not adjustable. We didn't measure the castor angle, but I'll bet that it's very low, too. In the old days, I typically set my race cars with very low toe-in and slowly increased the negative camber until the high-speed stability was dialed-in where I liked it (but not too much to cause bump-steer or other anomalies). I think the Ryker needs adjustable camber arms/plates to allow fix its ails.
The steering linkage on the Ryker is a very simple arrangement... think go-kart, not Spyder. There is no power assist or rack-and-pinion arrangement... it's manual through and through. The handlebars are linked to a steering shaft (with a U-joint to change the angle) that connects to a simple cam arm that pulls directly on the left/right tie-rods... just like a go-kart. The ratio is fairly steep, so minor handlebar inputs translate to rather quick steering changes. The arrangement of the steering linkage would make it tough to fit a steering dampener in there, but it could probably be done. The first hurdle would be how to attach the dampener to one (or both) of the tie rods because they don't move straight laterally... they move in an eccentric arc due to the cam arm in the center. The second trick would be finding the right damper that isn't too stiff, which would make the steering too heavy (it's manual, no power-assist). The last issue is response tuning of the damper... the on-center tracking is so twitchy and requires so little input to affect the bike that the center would need to be "notchy" to help with the tail-wag.
So far, I have concluded that the only "real" fix for the handling problem would be revised wheel geometry (e.g. adjustable camber arms) and rack-and-pinion steering (with an variable ratio rack, lower ratio on-center to give finer control). I'm still brainstorming on ways to improve or cure it, but I don't have the big shop full of tools needed for the job. I'll have to wait on the aftermarket to come up with answers, or for BRP to step up and replace some of the OEM pieces to remedy this first generation problem. --QM
@@QuasiMotard the steering being quick probably is the culprit. Small input equals large results. Guess you learn to be gental on straight shots?
I’m old school. I never ride another person’s (ride) like I stole it and I expect the same in return. I don’t ever abuse another person’s property.
Great video, really enjoyed it. Just waiting for the eBay auction to end on my future Ryker if the price doesn't get too crazy. Waiting is killing me, but these videos help a lot.
I don’t think all dealerships do it but get a laser alignment. Shawn Smoak vlogs about it and says it changes everything. He’s a CanAm tech.
Smoak's videos were influential to me in purchasing my Ryker! I watched his laser realignment video several times, and that's what I showed to my dealer. Unfortunately, none of the dealers in the Houston area have the laser alignment equipment. They refer customers to outside 3rd parties to PAY for an alignment... not covered by dealer setup or factory warranty. That's a big fail on Can-Am's part.
My Ryker has always handled badly compared to other Rykers, even after 4 separate ROLO laser alignments. I just noticed a new problem with the right wheel... fluttering in/out at the rear, independent of the other wheel or the tie rods... that means that ball joints or bushings are bad. So, it's parked until I have time to fight with warranty or just ordering new parts at my expense (e.g., control arms, ball joints, thrust bushings, etc). 👍 --QM
I'm looking into buying a Ryker, but I'm torn between the 600 and 900. I plan on doing some long rides 400+ miles. Would you recommend the 900 for that type of rides or would 600 do just fine. I was thinking about the Rally as well.
Either the 600 or 900 will be able to handle those distances without any problem. The decision on which model depends on how fast you plan to travel and on which highways. Texas has mostly 75 mph highways now, which the 600 can handle fine, but that's in the upper range of its "comfort zone". Most traffic here moves 15+ mph over the limit everywhere, so the 600 would be staying with the flow but not able to do much more. The 900 has plenty of power to run triple digits if needed, so it can cruise at 75-85 mph and still have room on top to accelerate or overtake if needed. The same thing applies to steep hills or mountain roads... the 900 will definitely be the better choice there because of the increased power on tap.
The decision between the 900 and 900-Rally is just a matter of economics and looks. The 900 (non-Rally) has the full rear fender and more street-oriented wheels and tires, but it doesn't include the MAX Mount for the passenger. If you plan to ride 2-up, to add the MAX mount, or need the adjustable suspension, then the Rally is the better/cheaper option because those are already included. If you add the suspension and MAX mount to the 900 non-Rally, the price is higher than getting the Rally.
Lastly, for longer trips, you'll probably need some luggage... that means either a tail bag (on the MAX mount) or the saddlebag kit. Luggage capacity on the Ryker is somewhat limited unless you think outside the box a little bit... a tailbag can hold a lot of stuff, but you'll need that MAX mount to do it. --QM
Just a guess, but I think the reason why yours tracks more is due to the tires on your Rally model being a wider, flatter profile than what the 600 has..
The tire sizes are roughly the same on the 600/900 vs the Rally, but the Rally has a different tread pattern... all-season vs road/street tread. I have discussed the tire issues with BRP and also with my dealer to see if there is any correlation. My dealer mentioned that several other Ryker owners have asked to swap tires with the non-Rally version for similar issues. The only problem there is that the Rally has a 15" rear tire instead of the 16" that the non-Rally has. There are aftermarket alternatives for the 15" rear, but we're stuck with the Kenda's for the front tires for now... nobody else manufacturers this size right now. --QM
Try "ride on" balance fluid in you tires to fix that side shift, I use it and it fixed 90 percent of shimmying I'll bet it will help with the sway back and forth on those trikes.. It balances as you ride , no more weights and perfect balance every ride.
Howdy, Zach! That's a great tip on the Ride-On tire balancer and sealant. I've been using that stuff in my motorcycle tires for many years including in the Ryker's tires (seen from inside the tire here: th-cam.com/video/g--QSajaLCU/w-d-xo.html ).
Unfortunately, my Ryker has always had alignment issue with toe-out and wandering at higher speeds. It has been laser aligned 5+ times with only minor improvements that don't seem to last.
I'm getting my Ryker 600 in a few weeks. I live in Del City so maybe I can find some people to ride with. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for the feedback, and congratulations on your new Ryker! You can find a lot of riding groups on Facebook. Be sure to look up "Red Dirt Rykers" and you'll find a lot of good folks there! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I’m in NW OKC and I just got mine yesterday
i’ve seen other videos where they fixed handled the “wishy washy” feeling at higher speeds by using heavier sway bar links
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT ACTUAL PRACTICAL DOCUMENTATION ... 👏 👍 👌 GOD BLESS THOSE BIKERS 🙌 🙏
Cool video. I love those rykers but I've never owned one either. I'd probably pick the 600 like your friend Porky's gotta gun lol. Lots of people are complaining about the vss code and poor quality or reliability so I've backed off the purchase of one. Thanks for the great video. 🙂
I know this video is an older one but, I have a question. Bought a Ryker 900 Ace for my wife. While riding it, it sounds as though the transmission only has 1 gear and doesn't shift. Is that correct or am I just not noticing?
Yes, you are mostly correct. The Ryker has a CVT that doesn't "shift", but it does vary its output ratio into the gearbox. There are no variable speeds in the gearbox on the left side of the engine... it just allows operation in forward or reverse.
The CVT is configured to maintain 3500-5000 RPM at lower road speeds around town. At higher speeds (e.g., freeway riding), the CVT will be in its most extended position for the highest drive ratio, but the Ryker's engine still spins relatively fast compared to most motorcycles. This is a good video showing a Can-Am CVT transmission in action: th-cam.com/video/sz8PaW_lUTI/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Best information I was looking for info on the difference between if I should buy the windscreen or not. Thanks for this vid
The windscreen makes a huge difference if you are planning to do any long, high-speed trips on the highways. Without the screen, you are buffeted around by the wind and you feel like you have to hang onto the bars tightly because of the pressure on your chest (it's the same with any naked bike moving over 60 mph). Speeds under 50-ish are manageable without the windscreen, so it depends on your intended rides and uses for the Ryker. I may upgrade this screen to another brand when they become availble (e.g. MadStad Engineering or similar) to have a little wider coverage, but the OEM Sport Windscreen does a good job. --QM
I did like the windscreen on motards ryker. It does make a huge difference at highway speeds. I can do about 90 minutes solid on highway until I feel beat up. But not having the guage spoiler was not fun.
Looks like partly cloudy with a tornado in the afternoon.
Yep, that's Oklahoma weather in a nutshell. I live in Houston, so Gulf Coast weather isn't much better... but at least we don't (normally) have to worry about tornadoes. 😉👍 --QM
Nice, subbing! I think I’ll be leaning toward the 1330 cc model. I have ridden 2 wheel bikes my whole life. Still got my 1st street bike which I’ll probably keep for ever unless some one offers me some stupid cash for it. It’s a 1983 LTD 750 Kawasaki. My last street bike was a 1997 Valkyrie that flat 6 has me spoiled. I like the power on the highway! Plus I don’t care for CVT transmissions. I know they have gotten better over the years but I’m not a fan.
Thanks for the feedback and the sub! The CVT on the Ryker is actually quite good... much better than a typical scooter because it engages more smoothly and it handles slow speeds without constantly riding/burning the clutch at the engagement point. My only gripe about the Ryker's CVT and overall transmission ratio is that the motor spins really high at freeway cruising speeds, so the economy is poor... only 29-31 MPG average. 👍 --QM
Very nice video. Great for someone considering the 600 vs 900. I think for me the 600 should be plenty and i plan to add the 3 protection armors, sport windshield, LED auxiliary light, comfort seats, passenger seat, foldable passenger backrest, red swaybar and the 2-up rear spring. (10,983.87). (12,348.88) for 900 with same build. (13,089.80 for Rally Edition with same build with standard Aluminum Handguards).
It looks like you've done your shopping and options comparison! One thing to note... if you plan to ride 2-up, then you'll also need the MAX mount (not listed, but I'm sure you know that). The 600 might be a bit under-powered for riding 2-up in some areas (e.g. hills and faster highways), but it should be fine under most circumstances. The CVT does a good job of keeping the motor in its power curve regardless of road speed. Remember that overtaking on the highway with the 600 takes a little more planning if you're moving at higher speeds because it lacks that top-end grunt that the 900 has... and that will be more pronounced if riding 2-up. --QM
Very good points to consider. Thanks for your detailed response.
This might be a stupid question since they go into reverse do they have a reverse light
No reverse lights, but they do flash the signal lights continuously (front and rear) and sound the warning beeper twice as a backup alert. --QM.
My 600 gets right at 40 mpg. My top speed on the gage was 90mph and probably could have gotten another mile or two.
Nice bud how do you think the 600 would do with 2 people riding?
@@tjr71797 not good unless it’s two small people
Hi I am watching your videos I have been riding a Harley and like to get a Ryker May I ask I am planning a trip to the coast which one would you get a 600/900 my friend has a victory. Speed I saw you had up to 85 how did that handle?
What is the biggest difference between both bikes besides price LoL
Howdy, Monica! You could do a coast-to-coast trip on either the Ryker 600 or 900, but I'd recommend the 900 just for the extra headroom up top. The 600 runs out of steam above 80 MPH on flat ground, so it will have problems keeping up with fast traffic on the open roads... probably have trouble going up steep inclines above 70 MPH as well. I would recommend the Ryker 900 ACE instead of the Rally edition. Most owners report that the non-Rally model handles better, and that has also been my experience. You can spend that extra $$$ on upgraded suspension or other accessories.
Nick and I rode our Rykers together on a few other road trips after this initial meet-up. This video is when we did a group ride with Nick on his Ryker 600 ACE and several other riders on 900's: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . You might be interested in watching this video for comparisons on faster highways: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html . Nick had trouble maintaining speed into headwinds that day on his 600, but my 900 could pull away without any problems. So, if you're planning to ride with a Victory, then the 900 is probably a better fit. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I've ridden Cam Am's that twitched around. And it was the alignment. I would bet you bike needs a proper alignment.
I've taken my Ryker in for the ROLO laser alignment two times, so the wandering and darting is something else intrinsic to this platform... most likely the lack of proper camber or caster on the front wheels (non-adjustable). --QM
I really enjoy your videos. You do a great job with the editing and sound. The cam quality is awesome too. I hope to get one of these Ryker's someday!
Thx for the feedback and compliments! I'm still learning and improving my camera work and editing skills to create higher quality videos. I have lots of other vlog-type content that I don't post just so I don't bore everyone to tears. Unfortunately, most of my riding is commuting for work, so I enjoy being able to do these more interesting videos whenever possible. Thx again for the feedback, and I hope you can grab a Ryker of your own soon... get out and ride! Cheers! 👍😉 --QM
Almost looks like the sway is coming from the rear. Maybe try a different rear tire.
Also check caster. Caster angle affects stability at high speeds. Toe-in provides better straight line stability at the expense or turn-in responsiveness.
Agreed... I thought the same thing after my first ride. The first thing that came to mind was a loose rear wheel hub nut or loose swingarm pivot/bushings. Neither of those were the case for me... it's just the rear tire tread pattern. The problem there is that the only "official" tire for the Rally is the same 15" Kenda tire that's on it now... no alternates are available yet. I took my bike to a local laser alignment tech, and he said that we should be able to swap for a similar size Yokohama that is used on some of the Spyders, so that's my next best hope. The alignment hasn't fixed the wandering/darting, but it did fix the constant pull to the right that the bike had when it was new. 👍 --QM
REALY ... I AM THINKING 🤔 OF PURCHACING ONE ... THANKS 👍 FOR THIS VIDIO ❤️ ...
Sounds like you might need to laser align the 900 . Shawn Smoak talks about twitchy feelings if your front end needs aligned. 👍
Good catch! Yes, Shawn's video was the first resource that I found back in 2019 when I got my Ryker! Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed my Ryker's handling issues. I've had it laser aligned 5 times now, and some of the front steering linkage was recently replaced... no joy so far.
The newest symptom that I started experiencing last year was the right wheel wobbling side-by-side and the VSS being triggered too easily on left hand corners. The right side inner tie rod was replaced under warranty, but I'm still seeing and feeling right wheel flutter. I think that other pieces might be out of tolerances or broken... maybe ball joints or control arm bushings. I'll try to dig into it again this summer to see if I can figure out that wheel issue. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
How does it compare to the F-3 & other Cam Am’s? You should list pro’s & Con’s for all to read, provided whoever wants to read them.
I don't own any other Can-Am bikes, so I couldn't give an owner's perspective on the other models. However, I have ridden the Spyder F3's and RT's many times so I can make some general comparisons. The F3 and RT both have power-assist rack-and-pinion steering, so that is the largest riding difference when compared to the Ryker's manual steering. The Ryker is essentially a snowmobile for asphalt and it has go-kart style direct-linkage steering. This makes it much more of a physical machine to ride because it requires a lot more physical input to wrangle the handlebars around corners and bumps.
Weight is the next issue. The lowest model F3 is heavier than the Ryker by ~300 pounds, and the RT's are heavier by 400 pounds or more. Here are the weight and power specs for reference:
- Ryker 600: 594 pounds (270 kg), 50 HP (37.3 kW), 36.7 ft-lb (49.7 Nm)
- Ryker 900: 616 pounds (280 kg), 82 HP (61.1 kW), 58.3 ft-lb (79.1 Nm)
- Spyder F3 (F3-S): 899 pounds (408 kg), 105 HP (78.3 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm) (the F3-S generates +10 HP, same as RT's)
- Spyder F3 Limited: 988 pounds (448 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm)
- Spyder RT: 987 pounds (449 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm)
- Spyder RT Limited: 1021 (464 kg), 115 HP (85.8 kW), 96 ft-lb (130.1 Nm)
The next big difference is the F3's and RT's are manual-shift bikes that don't have the ability to twist-and-go like the Ryker's CVT transmission. Most of the F3/RT's have with an automatic clutch, and you are forced to shift them up to higher gears (but they will automatically downshift if you forget). The Ryker is like a big scooter... just twist the throttle and go! The F3's and RT's have 1330cc Rotax triple-cylinder engines with more horsepower than the Ryker's 900cc triple, but the F3's and RT's are also pulling more weight. The acceleration of the Ryker 900 is quite good and the CVT keeps the motor in the power peak all the time. The F3-S is probably faster, but not until above 55-60 mph in a drag race (don't quote me on that... those are just my seat-of-the-pants impressions).
In summary, the Ryker is more of an athletic "naked bike" and it's more suited to "focused" riding and less suitable for touring. The F3's and RT's are more comfortable for touring and have better road manners due to their higher weight and the power-assist steering. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Diagonal parking spaces that require you to back out onto the highway? That sounds a little dicey.
The speed drops to 35 in that area
I think I'm going to go buy one tomorrow does anybody know what the top speed is on the 900
thank you guys for the videos greatly appreciated
Great video and very helpful as well , Im torn between a 2024 600 or the 900 as we speak , My biggest question whats the rpm at around 60-65 mph on the 600 tia !
Sir the 600 excellent handling with one person but not enough power for 2 people? Steve from WV im getting the 900 and the rt for my gf and me
@sxxkkllmmmclean7894 If you plan on riding 2-up, then you should definitely opt for the 900. The 600 runs out of steam above 75 mph or when climbing steep hills.
Nick (the owner of this 600) and I rode the Texas Twisted Sisters route (very hilly and twisty) on these Rykers. My 900 Rally was able to accelerate uphill and easily maintain 80+ mph while his 600 was laboring to maintain the same pace. You can watch that adventure here: th-cam.com/video/_3mO8HmgZ2Q/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, and good luck with your upcoming Ryker purchase! 😉👍 --QM
Hey if you're ever rykin' around Katy during the week you should stop by the shop I work at. Dynamic Munitions behind the CarMax on 10.
OK, will do! I ride through that area several times every week. I haven't noticed that shop, but everything over there is building out so fast that it's hard to keep up. --QM
I've got a Burgman 400. But I would love to have a Ryker. 600 or 900.
I would have the Front End Alignment Checked, this will cause it to move around some...
Yep, I've been down that path already, but I didn't have any luck yet. The bike has been laser aligned twice so far. The first time fixed a constant pull to the right (toe-out) and a misaligned steering stem; the second time was an attempt to dial-in a bit more toe-in to help the high-speed wandering issue... no joy. I plan to replace the tires with different tread, replace the front wheel hubs with the 2020 model (anodized to resist rusting), and have a different dealer re-align the front end. Hopefully that will resolve the bizarre tracking issues... we'll see! Cheers! 👍 --QM
I am thinking a steering stabilizer kit would stop the sensitivity it would dampen the steering
I am sure that this information is down in your comment somewhere, but you need to upgrade your sway bar in your links. I don’t know why it doesn’t come standard when BRP knows the issue, maybe they’re just supporting the aftermarket.
I'm hearing that most 900's seem more "twitchy" that most 600's. I'm guessing that is because of the added weight of the 900 engine in the same frame and suspension as the 600. I rented a Rally for a few days and noticed it was twitchy but it was really my first experience on a 3 wheel motorcycle so I was expecting some major differences. I did like it well enough that I've purchased two 900's (for my wife and I) and I'm just waiting for them to arrive at the dealership. Still not getting rid of my Concours 14 just yet.
I don't think it's the 900's in general... it seems to be more of a Rally edition issue. The difference could be due to the higher ground clearance that is affecting the steering geometry. My Rally is down for a few months right now pending a complete front suspension rebuild/replacement. It developed a new (dangerous) condition where the right wheel was shuddering and wobbling at higher speeds (I haven't had time to edit or post those videos yet). During fast left-hand turns (right suspension loaded), the bike wobbles and swerves side-to-side and won't track a line. It has always been flighty in a straight line, but it always cornered well until now.
I think the ball joints and/or control arm bushings are defective, which would explain why I've always had stability and alignment issues with my bike. I will start a warranty claim with BRP to see if they will fix the problem first. If they can't/won't fix it, then I will just purchase all of the parts (e.g., left and right side upper & lower control arms, ball joints, chassis bushings, etc) and fix this issue. I'm tired of messing around with realignments that are only putting band-aids on the underlying problems. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I thank you very much for sharing this video. My wife and I are trying to figure out the better Ryker for her.
I ride a Victory motorcycle 106 cubic inch motor. And we do a lot of highway riding... My bike loves to run around 80 mph. That is the comfort zone on that bike. Wasn't sure if the 600 would comfortably maintain that or if we should jump her up to the 900?
I'm glad to help! You should definitely go for the 900 ACE to run those speeds comfortably. The 600 ACE runs out of steam at ~80 mph, so it would have problems keeping up with your Victory on the open road. I would advise against the Rally edition because of the handling problems that I've had with mine, and many other Rally owners seem to echo my sentiments. It's just something about the taller ride height and the all-season tires that make it a bit more twitchy than the non-Rally models. If you need/want the rear mount for the passenger seat or other luggage options, then you can always add those pieces for a little more money.
However, the one thing my Rally (900 ACE) has plenty of... is POWER. I have run it flat-out against the rev-limiter (102-103 mph) nonstop for an entire tank of fuel (~140 miles or 1.5 hours) and it didn't mind a bit. --QM
The left right wishy washy your getting may simply be wheel alignment. As you said, camber is a factor and toe in / out as well.
I like those Mirrors. By the way I’m an Okie living in ABQ these days. Lived in New Castle for a few years and grew up inHoldenville and Tulsa.
You still here in ABQ?
@@2wheeledsocialworker372 moved away a year ago
Haven't been down in that kneck of the woods in a long time....I'm on the Tinker side of town..thx for the review on the 600!!! Thinking on trading my car for one of these
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad to help (if encouraging someone to spend money is "helping") 🤣 The 600 ACE has plenty of power if you don't plan on riding at speeds above the posted limits or roasting the rear tire at every stoplight. You might want to test ride both the 600 and 900 just so you can feel the difference. The 900 also has riding modes (e.g. ECO, Normal, Sport) while the 600 doesn't have any ride modes. If you haven't watched my Red Dirt Ryker's meet-up, you might want to check out that series to see how well the 600 hangs with a troop of 900's: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
At 8:10 you mentioned cruise control. I was under the impression that feature was an aftermarket lock-type. Is that not the case? Haven't got a Ryker yet but prepping to get a Rally next spring/summer. Trying to learn as much as I can about them and buy aftermarket stuff to make my ride as comfortable as possible.
I hacked a GoCruise throttle lock to work with my Rally edition ( th-cam.com/video/KPAomxzdCiE/w-d-xo.html ), and I've been using that since I've owned my bike. In the early portion of this video, I'm riding Nick's Ryker 600 that doesn't have the handguards fitted yet... those are necessary for the GoCruise to have a stopper (the Ryker doesn't have a front brake lever like other bikes). You can see the cruise control in the last few minutes of this video. Nick has installed the handguards and also done my cruise control hack since this was filmed. Let me know if you have any other questions about gear or add-ons and I'll be happy to help with my opinions and what did or didn't work for my riding style. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I might suggest you just take it back to the dealership and tell them that it needs an alignment for the front end
Unfortunately, I tried that route several times without success. I was the first Ryker owner in Texas, and NONE of the local dealers had the experience or tools to align these machines correctly for 6-12 months after the initial deliveries. I eventually found an independent Spyder maintenance shop on the north side of Houston who was the first in Texas to purchase the ROLO laser alignment tools.
I paid out of my pocket to have this Ryker aligned 5 separate times with only temporary relief from the darting and wandering isuses. Can-Am refused to cover ANY of the repairs, even under the extended "B.E.S.T." warranty. I finally lost faith in the machine after the final $1300 repair (alignment, blown CVT, etc) and sold it to a new owner. My Can-Am ownership experience was abysmal to sy the least. 😒👎 --QM
I just want a Ryker for running around my neighborhood. Seems like the 600 is good enough
The oversensitive steering can be taken care of by a steering stabilizer shock. That’s my opinion and I’m gonna put a steering stabilizer on my Can-Am Ryker
It’s likely that you need a little toe-in on your front wheels. Laser alignment is worthless. The more toe-out the front is, the more wandering and heading for the ditches it is. Another solution is a steering stabilizer (not dampener) like on an RV or jeep…
Agreed, that's the usual culprit. I had that Ryker realigned 6 different times, but none of those sessions provided lasting results. We tried varying amounts of toe-in to fix the erratic behavior, but it always reverted back to chaos within a few hundred miles.
The Ryker's steering geometry is primary design problem because there is no damping or mechanical advantage over the system (e.g., steering damper, rack and pinion, etc). The other major fault in the design is no provision for caster or camber adjustment. Can-Am's larger trikes (e.g., Spyder, RT) have adjustable camber, toe, and rear thrust angle; however, the Ryker only offers toe adjustment.
I eventually sold the Ryker in October 2024, and the new owner advised that they replaced all of the steering components. They found a bad ball joint on the right side and a failed center bushing on the steering shaft. Those components were faulty from the beginning, but Can-Am/BRP refused to repair them under warranty even after multiple service visits and factory recall issues.
Those problems, combined with other critical safety issues, forced me to sell the Ryker. Based on Can-Am's horrible customer service and disregard for their customers' safety, I won't own another Can-Am product. 😒 --QM
The key to a good Can Am experience is in having a good service dealer.
Tires -- are the tires the same size ? You can buy a bigger swaybar for the 900. Watched a guy install it on youtube
Yes, the front tires are the same size on both models, but the rear wheel on the Rally is 15" instead of 16". The only "approved" tires by Can-Am/BRP are the original Kenda's that are on the bike now. The non-Rally models have street-oriented tread, and the Rally model has all-season tires with a different tread pattern. The all-season tread tends to wander and follow pavement grooves on the highway more than the street tread that the non-Rally models have. I do have the stiffer BRP sway bar installed on my Rally... it makes a huge difference in handling and reducing body roll in corners. --QM
I enjoyed your #Ride video!👍🏼🙏
Nothing like enjoying the day with your brother. "My brother doesn't ride"
Thinking about getting one after selling my 2014 Honda CTX-700 motorcycle that I ride 20 minutes from time to time.
Thx for sharing! #CypressTexas
Distracted drivers is why I don’t ride anymore. I almost got hit in my SUV 3 times in 1 day, got one of them on my dash cam. If I was on a bike, I would of been road kill.
Yep, cagers on cell phones are a real hazard to everyone... particularly motorcyclists. I've never been down on the street in my riding career, but it's a constant battle to keep it that way. 👍 --QM
on the green ryker where did u get the hand gaurds? i like those
The aluminum handguard frames are included with the Ryker Rally edition. The plastic deflectors are Can-Am factory accessories that can be added to those frames. Both pieces can be added to the non-Rally Rykers as well. Here is the Can-Am accessory page for reference: can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/us/en/accessories/ryker-accessories/windshields-wind-protections.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Watched several Ryker videos and there does seem to be a relationship between tracking and shocks dealing both with type and setting. You may also consider tire tread differences I have found some tread patterns want to wonder cars, bike both. There is a video out where he actually changes to an aftermarket shock and it cured his tracking problem, but that was an advertisement. I think I would experiment with shock settings and tire pressures and note what changes produce. Note: One change at a time.
Agreed! The suspension/shock settings will certainly play a factor in the Ryker's road manners. I have a fair bit of experience tuning bike and car suspension from my younger years. I haven't played with the suspension settings on my Ryker very much yet. The only changes so far have been to the alignment and reducing the front spring preload down from #3 to #2. I will tinker around with the front'rear spring preload to adjust the rider sag to see if I can settle the bike a bit more for my riding weight (it barely drops at all when I sit on it). --QM
@@QuasiMotard Do the shocks have any dampening or rebound adjustments?
@@jacksloan3516 The non-Rally models (600 or 900) don't have adjustable settings for the front shocks. Both of those models do have a rear spring preload stepper-collar, but no adjustable compression/rebound settings. The Rally edition has adjustable front spring preload (threaded collars), but no compression/rebound settings. The Rally's rear shock has spring preload (threaded collar) and an adjustable damping setting via a 4-position remote reservoir.. but I'm not sure if it affects compression, rebound, or both. I suspect that it affects compression damping only as depicted in the passenger seat documentation (instructions show to bump it up to the maximum of #4). BRP does offer fully-adjustable FOX shocks as an accessory/upgrade for the Ryker, but I haven't seen them in person yet. --QM
@@QuasiMotard th-cam.com/video/K2PtQBy88Ss/w-d-xo.html
Saw this the other day, they do have a good reputation.
Thanks for the video! I am researching can-am Ryker 600 because I am thinking 🤔 about buying it right now I have Piaggio mp3 250IE and not made for HWY because top speed 70!♤
Thanks for the feedback! You will probably love the Ryker 600 if you're already riding a Piaggio MP3. The Ryker doesn't lean like the MP3, but it's still twist-and-go... very simple to ride. The Ryker's engine performance and handling are in a completely different league compared to the MP3... much faster, more sure-footed, and it's virtually impossible to tip over (roll over).
The Ryker 600's highway manners are good, and it can maintain relatively high speeds for hours at a time. The top speed is 85-90 MPH under most conditions, but heavy headwinds or steep inclines can reduce that to about 75-80 MPH. Here is one of my ride videos with Nick (same Rykers as in this video) when we took a recent trip to Arkansas in heavy winds: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html
The Ryker doesn't have any useful storage capacity, so you'll need to consider adding the MAX mount and a rear carrier, or the SHAD saddlebag and mount if you want to carry anything with you. Good luck shopping! Cheers! 👍 --QM
If you’re ever back out in OKC, let me know as well. I’d love to meet up and ride with you. I’ve watched most of your videos and it’s always quality content. Seriously though, please, let me know. Also, the dealership you were talking about working at 30 years ago? It’s called Reynolds Ford now and it’s been there for YEARS! I’ve even purchased one of my mustangs from there. Ride safe sir!
It was fun to swap ryker qhen he was up here in OKC
Thx for the feedback and the video compliment! Yessir, that's the dealer! I worked there very briefly back in the early 90's just for a change of pace. I've always been a car and gear junkie, so I thought that might be an interesting job at the time. I couldn't do the high-pressure car sales bit though, so I had to move on after just a couple of months. I didn't really need the money at the time... it was just to try something new/different.
I will certainly keep in touch with you and @fattywithafirearm for my future visits to the OKC area. Maybe we can round up a few more Ryker owners and have a group meet-up or short destination ride somewhere... maybe a lunch run or a short motocamping trip. --QM
My wife isn't into the tricycle riding thing either. I wish I can have the 900 and get her the 600 and we both can go for summer day rides but she won't. Heck I bought a little Troy built zero turn and she was scared of it. It took her a few year's of me having it before she tried it and I could walk faster than she was going..lol
That sounds like my wife... she just doesn't have the moto gene in her DNA. I tried several times over the past 20 years to get her interested in riding, both as a passenger and as a pilot, but it's just not her thing. That's OK, though... she supports my hobby and it lets me have my "me time" to enjoy the rides without worrying about pleasing someone that just isn't interested. Maybe your wife would like riding as a passenger on the Ryker... it's a very different experience than riding on a motorcycle because it doesn't lean in corners (no sensation of tipping over). Cheers, and good luck with your shopping! 👍 --QM
Good video. I think you have more sway since it is a Rally? I love the yellow panels. Those are the ones I have on my Ryker 900 when I had it.
What is that flat plate in front of the speedometer?
On which bike? The flat black panel on the black bike (600) is the gauge spoiler (a miniature windscreen). The silver reflective bit on the yellow bike (900 Rally) is the RiderScan blind spot mirror: th-cam.com/video/gNQ-TtpdmeM/w-d-xo.html . The other two flat plates on my Rally would be the wind deflector behind the windscreen (part of the same unit), and the other smaller black plate on the handlebars is a GoPro Remote mount. --QM
Before motard sent me the guage spoiler I would get beaten up on the highway. I'd be worn out after an hour or so.
Oh it's called a gauge spoiler. Ok I see. Thanks guys!
And yeah quasi, I'm totally gonna buy that blind spot mirror. I've been watching your vids and it makes perfect sense.
August 2021 do you still have your Riker and is it doing well. Love from Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Howdy, David! Yes, I still have my Ryker, but it's parked for a while. I've had alignment problems with my Rally since day one, and it recently developed a new symptom that sidelined it until I have time to repair the issue. The right wheel started fluttering/wobbling side-to-side at freeway speeds and during fast left-hand corners (right suspension loaded). I was able to observe the wobble on camera when I took it back to park it at my warehouse. I'll be editing and posting that video soon.
My Ryker is still under warranty, so I plan to open a case with Can-Am to see if they will repair whatever is faulty. I suspect that the ball joint(s) and/or control arm bushings are bad and they are what is causing the wheel flutter. A few other Ryker owners have reported similar failures of ball joints on their bikes, so that's probably the issue with my bike as well.
If Can-Am can't (or won't) replace the suspension on my Ryker, then I'll just purchase all of the parts and do it myself. The parts total for the entire front suspension will be ~$1400 (left and right side: upper & lower control arms, ball joints, bushings, ball joints, steering knuckles, etc).
Otherwise, the engine and drivetrain have been flawless. I really enjoy the Ryker, and it has great potential for touring and casual riding. Unfortunately, I've been fighting these suspension issues since I purchased it, and I'm just tired of messing around. So, it's time to hit it with a bigger hammer and fix these problems permanently! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard that’s really sad can-am is putting the situation 2 U I am going to have to
Find a different motorcycle to buy
Love from Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Awesome feedback. Did you notice the seat height difference between the rally and 600? Are it's really not much of a difference? Looking at getting a 900 ace or rally.
Thx for the feedback! There is no appreciable difference in seat height between the 3 models (600ACE, 900ACE, and Rally). I've been recommending to most prospective owners to skip the Rally edition and go for the 900ACE instead. The "rally mode" is just a gimmick, and the all-season tires don't ride or track as well as the "normal" tires from the non-Rally Rykers. Most of the Rally's upgrades can be put on the 900 if you want/need them... but you can pick and choose to save some money. You can add the MAX mount and Linq accessories only if you need them, and then spend $1000-1500 on better suspension from Elka or Fox (the factory KYB's aren't that great) and an upgraded sway bar. 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard that's great advice. Thank you. Be safe on the road in Htown. I lived there for 10 years and I know how the drivers are out there.
I noticed the 600 was at 6250rpm at 70mph -- what rpm would the 900 be at that speed?
The 900 runs about 300-400 RPM slower, so it's turning ~5850 at the same speed. The 900 is much more capable on the highway vs the 600 when speeds rise above 75 MPH. The headroom that the 900 offers in terms of top-end and acceleration are definitely worth the added expense in MSRP vs the 600 ACE, in my opinion. Nick's Ryker 600 struggled to maintain speed into headwinds and hills, but the 900 soldiered on without breaking a sweat: th-cam.com/video/rfL7hGBfVtM/w-d-xo.html . The 600 pales in comparison to the 900 when the speeds are above 70 MPH. 😉👍 --QM
Really looking at Ryker, also here in Houston, if you couldn’t be under a covered spot what do you do to battle the Htown heat when you aren’t on it, and not in a garage? Jacket preference for protection and also okay for houston heat?
Welcome, fellow Houstonian! If the bike isn't covered from the sun, then the seat is going to get really hot. I have the AirHawk Cruiser Large seat pad on mine, so it cools off really quickly when you sit down. You could get the outdoor cover for it, but it's really large and heavy... probably not something you want to carry around with you. The heat output from the Ryker itself isn't too bad, and most of it flows away from you when you're in motion (radiator is mounted in the front chin area). The motor and exhaust are far enough away that your legs don't get cooked when sitting still.
As for the riding gear, I always ride with helmet, jacket, gloves, and boots (unless I'm just going around the corner to the grocery store). The jacket, gloves, and boots are ventilated mesh (textile), so that helps with the heat management as long as I'm moving... but sitting still in the heat sucks, period. I typically wear a modular helmet (flip-up chin bar), which is a nice convenience and it can help to cool down my face and head when I'm stuck in traffic.
If you aren't accustomed to riding in Houston heat, then it might take a while to get comfortable with your riding gear selection and managing the heat issues. For really hot days, I have a cooling vest that fits underneath my mesh jacket. It's a textile vest that you soak in water, and then wring out the excess. Airflow past it creates an evaporative cooling effect that helps under the right conditions (sitting still isn't one of them).
Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll be happy to help! --QM
I've been looking for so long and can't find any good 0-60 mph videos, I found some from europe but they seem to slow? Every where I look in the comments people say it's around 6 seconds but in the video it was around 9, I just want to see one video where the 0-60 is seconds for the can am ryker
The 900 ACE (or Rally edition) can make the 0-60 run in about 6 seconds. You can watch my "Ryker meets Monster" video here to see how it compares to my 2013 Ducati Monster 1100 Evo: th-cam.com/video/myU-Fszubxk/w-d-xo.html . At 8m36s of that video, I make a hard 0-60 mph run: th-cam.com/video/myU-Fszubxk/w-d-xo.html&t=516s . The Ryker could probably do it in the low 5-second range (or faster), but the problem is traction... too much rear wheel spin causes the traction control to step in. So you lost momentum and the computer retarding engine power at the same time. A really sticky rear tire would help with the hard launches. Cheers! 👍 --QM
th-cam.com/video/7su_PCei_e8/w-d-xo.html
Does anyone know how to 600 rides with 2 people.
Does anyone have issues with their mirrors shaking? I have contacted BRP to address the issue because it is definitely a safety issue. I can't make out any vehicles past 60mph
Several owners have commented about that problem, and it seems to affect some riders more than others. Maybe it's the difference between the 900 (triple) and 600 (twin) engine vibrations? I have replaced my mirrors with the CRG Lane Splitter's and I don't have any problem with vibration... the image is rock-solid at all speeds (idle is still shaky, but viewable). --QM
@@QuasiMotard thank you
@@QuasiMotard I found them online. Is there an install video you would recommend that is specifically for Rykers?
No, I didn't video that install, but I could redo mine for you if you're interested. It's very easy to get the original mirrors out if you have the TORX bit (T-20, if I remember correctly). The CRG bar-end adapters install very easily with a standard 5mm hex/Allen key. If you order the CRG mirrors, be sure to get a PAIR of mirrors and a PAIR of bar-end adapters... I accidentally ordered a single adapter on one occasion, then had to wait another few days for the second order to arrive... oops. Here are the Amazon links for the ones on my Ryker:
CRG EXO LS left mirror ($80.06): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DZ8YT6
CRG EXO LS right mirror ($80.06): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RXKG39
Bar-end adapters ($16.20 x2): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7JD92
The mirrors that I have are the "EXO" model with the exoskeleton pattern on the back, so they are slightly more expensive. You can get the cheaper version (like I have on my Honda Super Cub) with the smooth back for only $66/each:
CRG Hindsight LS left: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CC3YE
CRG Hindsight LS right: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041C94TG
The bar-end adapters will be the same as above.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to help! --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thank you so much! This should be the problem solver. You laid it out so well for me. I am purchasing now👍.
Maybe you have to do a front wheel alignment on your 900 to fix the tracking issue?
Unfortunately, that hasn't fixed the problem for my Ryker. I have done the laser alignment on my Rally two times... the first time helped cure the constant pull to the right, and the second time was to add a little more toe-in to see if that would help the straight-line tracking. It still wanders around at freeway speeds and darts toward road imperfections and dips (or off-camber surfaces). I'm still searching for the cure... new tires with street-oriented tread are next. 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Clearly whoever is doing it for you doesn't know how to do it properly. Since your Ryker is still fairly new you should call CanAM and see if they can recommend a dealership who they can get in touch with and have to get the issue shorted out. Then take it there, have them test ride it to verify the problem so they can relay the info back to CanCAM properly just in case, in worst case you have a lemon. :(
I might take a trip to a dealer in east Texas that was recommended by another Ryker owner in the SpyderLovers.com forum. He said that his dealer laser-aligned his bike and it tracks perfect now... so, maybe a road trip is coming up! --QM
@@QuasiMotard I understand, but keep in mind CanAM themselves are the GODS for your vehicle, they would know best than any dealership. So it wouldn't hurt to get them involved, maybe other people have complained about this to them and they know a more direct way of fixing it. :)
@@dhowser2008 I was going to suggest "toe in" and you've already tried that! I bet its the tires following the grooves in the road surface. You can get this in Autos but it's somewhat ameliorated by having two wheels at the back
I'm debating to he one, one concern is, can I use it for my everyday drive?? Is it worth it or jis use it jis to cruise n chill??
The Ryker can be used as a daily rider, but it has some pros/cons vs a motorcycle. The stability of the reverse-trike platform and all of the advanced rider aids (e.g,. traction control, stability control, etc) are definitely better than a motorcycle in almost all respects. Rain rides are almost comforting on the Ryker because you never need to worry about dropping the bike, and losing control while in motion is much less likely due to the Ryker's stability controls ( th-cam.com/video/-QSYaoaBBps/w-d-xo.html ).
You also cannot split lanes or avoid road debris as easily on a Ryker as you could on a motorcycle due to the three independent wheel tracks; one of the three wheels is likely to hit the item on the road... potholes, ripples, road debris, etc. Motorcycles have two wheels but only a single inline track, so it's easier to swerve around road issues. The Ryker's front wheel track is as wide as a Smart ForTwo, so riding on the shoulder or squeezing between other vehicles to avoid a nasty situation is more difficult or impossible (e.g., getting through to dedicated turn lanes in deep queues of traffic is a common scenario... that's a big time saver on a motorcycle that doesn't work on the Ryker).
The Ryker's fuel economy is much lower than any typical motorcycles regardless of displacement... so that makes it less than ideal as a commuter vehicle. My lifetime average on my Ryker Rally 900 is 29.7 MPG (US) with mixed city commuting and long-distance touring ( www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/can-am/ryker_rally_900/2019/quasimotard/887879 ). Any of my motorcycles return better fuel economy (next lowest is 38.9 MPG on a sport bike). That could make a difference if you commute long distances... fuel prices are always going to rise over time.
I recommend taking the Can-Am Learn to Ride course ( can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/en/learn-to-ride/registration.html ) to see if the Ryker or a Spyder works for your needs. Good luck shopping and I hope you find a good fit! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
How can you see the top of the wheel and tell if it’s negative or positive camber...? When all you can see from behind is the finders on the front...? Maybe your finder is not straight...?
That effect is probably an optical illusion created by the upper width of the wheel's fender. Positive camber is when the top of the wheel is tilted outward relative to the bottom of the wheel... and that is NEVER good for a road vehicle (great for tractors that are digging into the dirt). A small amount of negative camber is generally good for road vehicles because it settles the front wheels and prevents "darty" steering. Race vehicles usually have a considerable amount of negative camber and also slight toe-in to aid in high-speed tracking. Cheers! 👍 --QM
What's the weight difference between the 600 and 900? Do you think that would make a difference in the tracking, side to side?
The 600 has a dry weight of 594 pounds. The 900 is 616 lbs.
I'm a few inches taller and about 40 pounds heavier than Quasi
The weights are 594 lbs (600 ACE), 616 lbs (900 ACE), and 627 lbs (900 Rally). Weight will certainly play some factor in the front-end stability, but the jury is still out on how much weight is really needed to "plant" the front wheels. The BRP engineers that I spoke with a couple of months ago said that all Rykers are calibrated for a rider that weighs 170-190 pounds. I am on the lower end of that scale when fully geared up (e.g. boots, jacket, helmet, etc). Unfortunately, I haven't found any other Ryker (or Rally) owners that are roughly my height and weight, so I am just theorizing that I might not be heavy enough for the suspension settings or particular "rider sag" that the suspension expects.
Note that weight plays a significant role in the front wheel alignment and suspension geometry, particularly for the toe-in values (toe-in reduces with more weight on the bike and gets closer to zero-toe as weight increases). James Thorne ( www.thornolis.com ) is our local expert on Can-Am Spyder/Ryker (reverse-trike) suspension geometry, so he is my source for this information regarding the Ryker's behavior. --QM
Love your videos! Thanks for the ride along. Do they sell anything to help stabilize the machine for highway speeds?
Thanks for the feedback! I don't know of any steering stabilizers that are made specifically for the Ryker, but it might be possible to fit a universal damper on there. The stabilizer would need to be compact and very stiff because it doesn't take very much movement in the steering linkage to translate to a lot of steering angle. The Ryker's steering is essentially go-kart linkage, so it doesn't have mechanical advantage like a rack-and-pinion system in cars or the larger Can-Am Spyders. 😉👍 --QM
I'm 6'5" and 275lbs, will I have an acceptable amount of room on the Ryker? Since a number of spinal surgeries, riding a two wheel bike is out of the question.
Too late, lol. I bought the Ryker Rally. Love it so far. Comfort seat and all the other bells and whistles on the way.
I think you would probably fit OK on the Ryker 900 (or Rally), but you might want to look at the Spyder F3 instead. The F3 is physically larger and has more legroom that would allow you to stretch out. If you have back problems, the F3 will also be easier to handle because it has power-assist rack-and-pinion steering versus the manual (go-kart) steering of the Ryker. I recommend going to a dealer and sit on both bikes to get a feel for the ergonomics. Arrange a test ride on both of them if you can... that will let you experience the handling and steering differences between the two bikes. Good luck with your shopping and I hope that you can find a fit on 3 wheels! Cheers! 👍 --QM
Did u get a 600 or a 900ace alexander im the same size?
I got a 900 Rally. Love it.
Did I hear you say you were thinking of selling your Ryker to buy an F3? Someone said that months ago. Didn’t know if it was you or not.
No, I've thought about it, but haven't really decided to go down that path. If I trade or sell the Ryker, then I'm not sure what would take its place. The F3's and RT's are interesting, but they are a bit too big and heavy for my commute duties. --QM
Can you drift in wet and dry with 600 cc?
Is it enough for strong drifting?
No, the Ryker 600ACE doesn't have enough torque to spin the rear wheel at-will like the 900ACE can. However, none of the Rykers (including the Rally edition) will maintain a power slide or drifting for more than a few seconds... and that's at a relatively low speed. The stability control steps in too easy and too often to allow the rear wheel to step out and continue spinning. You can see an example of that here: th-cam.com/video/gsGgYdhveh4/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I keep asking, do you like the windshield?
Yes...
Where did you buy that round mirror?
That is the RiderScan blind spot mirror. You can watch my install and review video here: th-cam.com/video/gNQ-TtpdmeM/w-d-xo.html . Check the video description for links to the manufacturer's site and also to Amazon's product page where you can order one. --QM
Update on the RiderScan mirrors: I received a reply from the new UK dealer today ( www.sportouring.co.uk/ ) stating that they should have a new production batch of RiderScan mirrors in 6-8 weeks. I will keep in touch with them regarding the availability and advise when I get more info. --QM
My 1330 cc spyder will do 60 mph in second gear. I rode a ryker and personally didn't care for it. Nice video hope you guys get plenty of enjoyment out of your machines
Thx for the feedback! The 900 ACE is plenty quick for me. I hope to resolve the alignment and twitchy highway manners one day... then I'll be able to enjoy my Ryker on longer road trips without fighting it so much. --QM
@@QuasiMotard my spyder used to track to the right then I got an alignment and changed the stock rear tire and that cured it alot of people also upgrade their sway bar and that helps stiffen it up from sway
@@larzman651 I haven't done the tire swaps yet, because the Ryker uses a proprietary front tire size... Kenda is the only supplier right now. The rear size is somewhat common, so an aftermarket or automotive equivalent may work. However, I have done the ROLO laser alignment twice, and this thing still darts all over the road. There is no relaxing and enjoying the ride... it's always a fight to keep it within a lane of traffic. --QM
@@QuasiMotard I hope you get that twitch figured out so you can relax when you ride 👊
Thats like me saying my bussa does 120 in 2nd gear lol two different creatures for 2 different rides lol
Is that a decal or painted onto the rear fender?
I had a RevZilla sticker on the rear fender of my bike (the yellow Rally) for a while, but I took it off a while back. I left the RevZilla stickers on the engine side covers, and one of them blends in to say "RykerZLA". 👍 --QM
Great honest comparison.
What windshield is that and how do you like it?
Howdy, Bud! The screen on my Ryker in this video is the Can-Am Sport windshield ( can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/en/shop/ryker-accessories/wind-protection.html ), but they no longer sell that model. I have since upgraded to the MadStad Engineering adjustable windscreen ( madstad.com/collections/can-am/products/can-am-ryker-2019 ), and it is MUCH better for coverage and features.
My height is 5'7" (170 cm) and I chose the MadStad 18" screen, but I would recommend the 20" instead for slightly better coverage. MadStad has a measuring chart on their site to help find the correct height. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I need a Dictionary for some of you're Volgs, You need a "VLOGS FOR DUMMIES. " Still look forward to your Video's.
No worries... just let me know if there is anything that I should clarify, or if you have particular questions and I'll be happy to help! --QM
What is the top speed for one of these things ??
The 600 ACE in this video has seen 90-92 mph reliably, and has reportedly reached 100-102 mph under the right conditions. The 900 ACE and Rally can easily run right up to the speed-limiter at 102-105 mph every time. There are ECU flash kits for the 900's that remap the engine performance and remove the speed-limiter, so the 900's can reportedly reach 125-135 mph.
The high-speed stability is good if you are on flat roads without too many ruts or cambered surfaces. Pavement ripples or off-camber surfaces can make the Ryker a serious handful at triple-digit speeds. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What kind of mpg does you 900 get?
My lifetime average for my Ryker 900 Rally is 29.7 MPG over 11K miles. It typically ranges from 28-31 MPG in mixed city & highway commuting. You can check my stats on Fuelly here: www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/can-am/ryker_rally_900/2019/quasimotard/887879 . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Ride seems shaky. Is the Spyder that shaky too?
No, the Sypder RT and F3 are heavier and have different steering/suspension geometry, so they are definitely more stable... straight-line tracking is much better than the Ryker. The Ryker has a shorter wheelbase, lighter weight, and a quicker steering ratio, so it tends to be a bit more "nervous" at freeway speeds. I have noticed that my Ryker feels more stable with more weight on board... it seems to plant it better. I took a ride on the Ryker a few days ago with my son as pillion (combined weight of ~310 pounds), and my Ryker handled much better... kind of counter-intuitive, but it was definitely less "twitchy". Cheers! 👍 --QM
What kind of cruise control do you have on your Ryker?
I use the Go Cruise 7/8" throttle lock (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TIEATVY). I added a short piece of heater hose to the end of the plastic to let it reach the Ryker's handguard: th-cam.com/video/KPAomxzdCiE/w-d-xo.html . It works very well, and the total cost was under $20! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard OK, I was trying that but it does not grip the throttle hard enough and so will only hold the speed for a few seconds. I thought in one of your videos I saw you had the Atlas Throttle Lock connected to your Ryker.... May have been someone else. I've watched so many Spyder/Ryker videos on TH-cam I can't keep them straight anymore..... :)
@@gregkamer3754 I've had that same problem on my Ryker... the GoCruise slips a bit because the grips are too squishy. The black rubber band that comes with the GoCruise helps to reduce the slippage. My grips are wearing out, so I will be replacing them with ProGrip 714's early next week. I'll let you know if that helps or not. 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for the suggestion. I've been taking a close look at the Atlas Throttle Lock, but the price tag is kind of scary.... :)
I’m seriously thinking about getting one.
They are a hoot to ride, for sure! If you decide to buy one, then grill your dealer on the alignment issue and all of the TSB's or recalls to be sure that the bike is COMPLETELY ready to ride. It seems that most of the newer owners aren't experiencing many the issues that I've had with mine, so us early adopters were the test pilots. 🤣 --QM
Also do know the ralley is the only model that has a radiator guard. Cost me a pretty penny to replace my radiator before I found out my 600 didnt have a radiator guard
Could it be the tires tread difference, more of a street tire or touring style treading on the 600?
I think that's part of the issue, which has been one of my suspicions since the very first day of ownership. These "all-season" tires on the Rally just don't seem to be matched well to the bike... whether it's the track width, weight bias, wheelbase, or whatever. These tires are really nasty on grooved pavement and change direction violently... more than any other vehicle that I've ever owned or driven. I will probably replace the front tires with the non-Rally (street) tires from the other Rykers. The rear tire should be a common enough size to find a street-oriented alternative. We'll see how that plays out. I'm still convinced that the only "real" fix for the high-speed wandering is adjustable camber plates... that's a much bigger issue to resolve. --QM
@@QuasiMotard You lost me with the chamber plates lol Can you change the rims too? I can't wait to be part of the family.
@@iluvbiggirlz420 As far as I know, the Rally and non-Rally wheels are interchangeable. The front tires sizes are the same, but the Rally has a different tread pattern (street vs all-season). The rear wheel and tire are 15" on the Rally and 16" on the non-Rally. The wheel construction for the Rally is supposed to be stronger to take more abuse for people that might take the Rally off-road (not a good idea considering the low ground clearance and radiator hovering ~5" off the ground). There aren't any aftermarket wheels for it yet, but that could change in the future. --QM
@@QuasiMotard ok thanks, I like the 900 rims better than the rally rims anyway. I think I'm leaning towards the 900 more,with the 2 up set up.
My #1 issue is getting the windshield or not. I'm going to take long trips on it, just not sure if I want it not.
I assume the 600 is not really good for two up riding.
I wouldn't want to take the highway from OK city up to Tulsa on a motorcycle.
How much for oil change for a Ryker
My Rally edition's first oil change was $146.72. Here is the breakdown of the oil service parts and fees:
$ 3.59 420552280 O-RING
$ 2.59 420950141 RING-SEALING
$14.39 420956123 FILTER-OIL
$41.36 779133 OIL 4T 5W40 SYNTH BLEND QT (x4)
$ 9.99 420230920 O-RING
--------
$71.92 Parts total
$74.80 0.8 hr SHOP LABOR
====
$146.72 TOTAL
--QM
Thank you
Are you headed for Edmond, OK?
Yes, I stayed in Edmond during this trip. I won't be headed back up there on the Ryker for a while, but I will be moving some personal items in a moving truck from there back to Houston in a few weeks. --QM
Good video. Can’t believe I saw it all lol
Thanks for the feedback! That was a good ride, and I've kept in close touch with Nick ( @fattywithafirearm ) since then. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Is the 600 good for like maybe a ride 2 hours the most ?
Absolutely! The Ryker 600 ACE is a very capable machine. Nick ( @fattywithafirearm ) has ridden his Ryker 600 from Oklahoma City down into Texas and Arkansas several times. The 600 will maintain freeway speeds without any trouble, and it can maintain 80-85 into moderate headwinds and inclines without struggling too much. The seat comfort might be a pain (literally), so you might consider adding the Can-Am "comfort seat" ( can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/us/en/219400795-driver-comfort-seat.html ) or the AirHawk Cruiser R Large seat cushion ( amzn.to/3wlCr9a ) to help with the long-haul comfort. Cheers! 👍 --QM
One other quick question as far as size goes 600 and 900 are no different in size other then the engine power correct ?
@@jmore3479 Yes, that's correct... the same physical size for all models. The 900 ACE and Rally edition are slightly heavier than the 600, but the physical dimensions are the same. The Rally sits about 0.5-1.0" higher because of the upgraded suspension, but it's not really noticeable from the rider's perspective. 👍 --QM