Here's a solution I've developed. From Autocad, I've been printing full 1:1 scale line drawings of my different fret boards (I have different scale lengths/numbers of frets/fanned/straight etc), all of which include the scale length in large numerals, the edges and ends of the board, the fret positions, a centerline, and positions for dot inlays. I use a scalpel and a steel straight edge to cut the drawing free of the paper stock, then gently roll it up from the body end. I then apply a thin layer of boiled sugar and water solution (cooled) to the board, and then aligning the centerline on the headstock end of the paper cutout to the centerline previously marked on the board, I carefully roll the template down the length of the board, smoothing it carefully down as I go, and aligning the body end centerline to its premarked mate on the board. I then let it dry completely, usually overnight. I only do this on fully flat, installed, but unradiused boards. I got sick of second guessing the fret positions, referring to tables, and squinting at a ruler. This method has a learning curve to it with respect to how the paper is unrolled so it does not distort, and with how much sugar solution to use (which largely depends on the wood species). Practicing on a dummy board until you get the method down is best. Once the solution has dried, the paper is stuck fast, and the fret positions are stark black against the white of the paper. As an added bonus, if the drawing is done correctly, and printing is true to size, the fret positions are extremely accurate. And obviously the CAD file can be printed over and over. So after you've sawn the fret slots, and drilled for any markers should you wish, the next step is to sand the paper template off with a flat beam, or just use the raduising beam and proceed as usual. Because the sugar glue dries crispy, and is relatively very weak, the template and the adhesive are gone in no time. Some quick clearing of the slots will be needed, but that has to be done in any event. Nice looking neck you're working on.
Here's a solution I've developed.
From Autocad, I've been printing full 1:1 scale line drawings of my different fret boards (I have different scale lengths/numbers of frets/fanned/straight etc), all of which include the scale length in large numerals, the edges and ends of the board, the fret positions, a centerline, and positions for dot inlays.
I use a scalpel and a steel straight edge to cut the drawing free of the paper stock, then gently roll it up from the body end. I then apply a thin layer of boiled sugar and water solution (cooled) to the board, and then aligning the centerline on the headstock end of the paper cutout to the centerline previously marked on the board, I carefully roll the template down the length of the board, smoothing it carefully down as I go, and aligning the body end centerline to its premarked mate on the board. I then let it dry completely, usually overnight.
I only do this on fully flat, installed, but unradiused boards.
I got sick of second guessing the fret positions, referring to tables, and squinting at a ruler.
This method has a learning curve to it with respect to how the paper is unrolled so it does not distort, and with how much sugar solution to use (which largely depends on the wood species).
Practicing on a dummy board until you get the method down is best.
Once the solution has dried, the paper is stuck fast, and the fret positions are stark black against the white of the paper. As an added bonus, if the drawing is done correctly, and printing is true to size, the fret positions are extremely accurate. And obviously the CAD file can be printed over and over.
So after you've sawn the fret slots, and drilled for any markers should you wish, the next step is to sand the paper template off with a flat beam, or just use the raduising beam and proceed as usual.
Because the sugar glue dries crispy, and is relatively very weak, the template and the adhesive are gone in no time. Some quick clearing of the slots will be needed, but that has to be done in any event.
Nice looking neck you're working on.
That’s the holy grail, consistent reliable & repeatable. Sounds like a good system 👍