Thanks! That was helpful! I need to add, that when you want to lower the pressure, you will have to turn on the water somewhere in the house after adjusting the screw. Otherwise you won’t see a change on the gauge. After releasing the pressure it will settle to your new set pressure 😊
Excellent tutorial! Just bought a water pressure gauge, and increased our water pressure with no problem. Note: I had next to no knowledge about plumbing, so thanks!
very informative. bardi HVAC came out to do a "complimentary" plumbing inspection. dude tried to charge me like 700 bucks to adjust the water pressure. man these people are INSANE
Thank you. I have had to learn how to be independently proactive in caring for my home. Your instructions were very clear. I am right at 60 psi. Very empowering. How often should I do this?
He forgot to mention if your water pressure doesnt increase after turning the head of the bolt clockwise, you need to replace that regulator since it's bad. Usually after 20 years. it needs replaced. The new water regulators come in 5/8 inch and 1/2 inch for home use. They run about 100 + bucks. ( as of this posting 3-13-2024. )
@@1-Tom-Plumber Quick question: I noticed that if I leave the pressure gauge attached to the garden spigot/bib, the pressure will slowly increase. For example, it starts at 50 when I turn on the valve, but it rises to about 60 if I leave it there for 20 mins. What causes that? Your video did not say to wait... is the instantaneous reading (black handle) accurate or should we pay more attention to the red handle?
Great Video + info. Thank you. Had my mom's refrigerator water line valve start leaking, got it replaced, then found the refrigerators water valve was leaking way worse too. I was wondering what would cause both to go at the same time..... All I could think of was too high of a water pressure..... So I needed to look into checking it myself. 1950's house, (some) new lines, 18 year old fridge, has been too many half a** "plumbers/workers" worked at my mom's house, along with other problems too, and ....me.... Sadly with very little knowledge of those things. So,.. I figured I'd give some things a shot. Can't/Shouldn't do any worse than the people that were hired. Lol. Thank you. I appreciate it.
Thank you. Our pressure adjustment unit is new style, then the screw driver dent knob is pretty much worn out. I was able to use a wrench and adjust this time. I may change the unit when possible...
Thank you thank you!! Our water pressure got turned up to high by the people doing our water softener sysyem and i was able to fix it myself! It was actually 10 over recommend on our tag
Thank u very much Sir..u test out side, but my kitchen sink has horrible pressure but basement sink super pressure..by testing outside is there a reason for where u put on the tester?
Great video but stuck on one thing.... which outside spigot do you attach it to? Like with most houses, I have two. One is closer to the intake, the other is on the other side of the house. The one closest to the intake reads about 55 on the black hand. The other one reads 85. Which do I go with?
Thank you for the very nicely done video. I have one question. Some of the other resources I have read recommend shutting off the water main. Should I do this?
Hello, thank you for your video! Very well explained! Currently my house has a water pressure of 100+psi and the plumber is recommending replacing the PRV. Instead of replacing, can I adjust the pressure on it so that it's around 75? The PRV might be around 15 years old though. Thank you!
Maybe you should ask the plumber that question. Did he try to adjust the pressure to a lower value? Maybe he just wanted to make a quick buck and sell you something you did not really need. I would have tried to adjust the pressure to see if you can lower it yourself. If you can not lower the pressure then maybe you do need a new valve.
How come you didn't loosen the bolt below the bolt that lowers and raises the water pressure? Do you need to shut off the water main before you adjust the pressure? Thanks!
Problem is with my house, I can’t find the dern regulator. Got any tips for that. That don’t involve trenching my yard or tearing a bunch of Sheetrock up?
If you can't find the regulator, there are a few things you can try before going into major projects like trenching or tearing down Sheetrock. First, check near your main water shut-off valve; in most homes, the regulator is located close to where the main line enters the house. It could also be in a utility area like a basement, garage, or crawl space. Sometimes, it's installed on the exterior wall if the main line comes in from there. If you’re still having trouble, consider using a stud finder or an infrared camera to locate hidden pipes behind walls without causing any damage. Hope this helps! Let me know if you need more details.
I live in a residential place with a second floor. The water supply does not come from a well. When I moved in I noticed our whole house had low water pressure. We changed out all of the out-dated pipes and had the same result. I had my plumber install a Grundfos Scala 2 booster pump that conveniently began to leak after the warranty. Before trying to repair this device, is there another water pressure booster device that the plumbing community can recommend that has a history of reliability? TYIA
Thanks for sharing your experience! When it comes to boosting water pressure reliably, many plumbers recommend the DAB E.sybox or the WaterBoost CMBE Series from Grundfos. Both have a reputation for consistent performance and durability. Another option you could look into is installing a constant pressure system with a reliable pressure tank. These systems help regulate and maintain steady water pressure throughout the house. It might also be worth having a plumber check for other potential causes of low pressure, like partially closed valves or sediment buildup. Hope this helps, and good luck with finding the right solution!
Our pressure had always been very low. It only became an issue when there wasn’t enough pressure to flush my boat engine. So I tested it and it was at 20 psi. I adjusted it to 60 and now the engine is discharging with the hose just fine. Anyway, should I adjust it back down? Or do I need to worry about it spiking and becoming too high? I just don’t want any leaks with too much pressure. It’s at 60 now
I see that you reply back- good, so my question is that I live in an apt./condo ( I own it) and we had to all change our water tanks. I have the expansion tank and a brass "t' valve for the expansion tank. To put on the tank I have to know the water pressure to correctly hook up the expansion tank so how do I go about this being that I do not live in a house like you show but live in an apt building and so l can not tell all the tenants not to use their water just so that I can test my water pressure. We do have the relief valve going from my water tank to the outside of the apt. just so you know.
How do you check the pressure in the bath tub where that won’t fit on it. The outside faucets have good pressure. Inside the kitchen, washroom and bathroom not so much. How do you increase the pressure inside the house?
I have the exact same pressure reader. My black arm is on about 62 psi and the red arm reaches past 100 psi. What’s the highest the red arm should reach.
Great question! The red arm on your pressure gauge typically indicates the peak pressure reached in your system. Ideally, you want to keep your water pressure between 60 and 75 psi to avoid putting strain on your pipes and fixtures. If the red arm is showing over 100 psi, that's definitely on the high side and could lead to leaks or damage over time. I’d recommend having a plumber check your pressure regulator to make sure it’s functioning properly, or consider installing one if you don’t have one already.
I also read that if the black arm is below 80 and red arm above 80 that it could be the thermal expansion tank rather than the pressure regulator. But I don’t see a thermal expansion tank on my water heater, which was replaced in 2021 in a home built in 2001. Does this mean it is definitely the pressure valve regulator? thanks.
Hi there. Question. My water pressure is awful. Inside my home I did the test at the faucet, timing how long it took to fill 1 Liter. It took 30 seconds to fill 1 liter. The instructional advice was that it should take 6 seconds to fill 1 Liter. I do not have that bell with the adjusting bolt inside my home to adjust the water pressure. I only have the water shut off valve at the main coming into my home, in my basement. Should I have one of those bells put on? The other thing is the city has the outside meter in my yard, set between 30 and 35 PSI. I understand it should be set on 60 PSI. Is there a way to increase the water pressure between that outside meter and my house since the city has it set so low at the meter? The water pressure often drops to 10 PSI, and lower, barely coming out and this occurs often, nearly daily. And it's caused me to even ruin washing white clothes in my washer with a little bit of bleach, and ive gotten very sick with stomach cramps, diarrhea and such as well, from drinking the water at such low PSI. What can I do? Thanks.
Why does the pressure on my gauge jump way up when I first turn the water on, but almost immediately settle back down to about 50. I didn't see that when you first turned your water on.
Will the bolt adjuster in a pressure regulator valve come out if you turn it too many times to reduce water pressure? I need to turn my pressure down but I am not sure if the old regulator is working or just has been turned up too high previously.
I attached the gage with nonwater running and received a 150psi reading. Adjusted the screw and nothing changed. I then turned on the faucet and reading dropped to around 35. Stayed around 35 but the faucet still sputters. Aside he sputtering the prv had a leak. Waiting a little bit before i go back to that part. I need to faucet 2 stop shaking 😫
Hi Tom, what happens if I have two different showers in the house, and one gets great pressure and the other one is terrible. I have removed the actual shower heads from both so there is absolutely no obstructions, and still it's the same thing. One has great pressure and the other one stinks. I've tried 4 or 5 different shower heads that are supposed to increase the pressure, but NONE of them have worked.
Tfs this info, it appears my pressure needs reducing, my monitor says 100 and it looks like water has entered it! Can this be happening as a result from the underground water issues my property has been happening?
Thanks for the video. What if the black needle shoots up initially to around 80 and then settles down to around 60 and stays there? Is where it stops the correct measurement? Thanks!
@@1-Tom-Plumber Mine shot up to around 78 and stayed there, but when I turned off the water at the home owner shutoff valve at the street it slowly sinks but stays around 64. Is this normal? Why does it sink and then go stable? Is this an indicator of a leak where it drops down and gets stable at the rate of the leak? My water meter reads 0.0 for a rate at the street with nothing shut off. Is the pressure test more sensitive than the rate shown on the meter? Thanks in advance for reply.
Well, maybe I should put in a PRV, I'm a little worried that water will be coming out of the sockets soon, the enamel tub is almost down to bare metal.........
I don't understand as the outside tap is before the PRV; so reducing the PRV did not change the outside tap pressure, which is off the mains?! so confused
We have a toilet that when you flush it the water line for the fridge icemaker squeals while the toilet refills. The sink beside the toilet cold water nearly comes to a stop when toilet is flushed. The squealing noise isn't at the toilet though. It is behind the fridge. Brand new water regulator. I can't test water pressure this way because the outside faucet is before the refrigerator. I'm stumped.
Plumbing Theory Question: Would it be possible to isolate a section of baseboard to prevent the pipes from freezing by cutting in shut off ball valves where it breaks off the system at the supply, 1 where it joins the return, and spigot in the middle to drain the line after it's shut off? I ask because my house has an addition my parents put on when I was a kid and whoever ran the baseboard literally ran the supply outside the foundation of the house before going up into the floor of the addition.
thx Dino this was informative and it helped me ........like 17 2 15 22 ........btw my brother's name is Dino .........glad I viewed this clip........Mark
@@1-Tom-Plumber true......I will ck out some of ya other vids on how to........stay safe man.......& if ya have some time come on over 2 listen .......I hope ya enjoy some of my music........Mark
If the water pressure level coming into your home from the city exceeds 80 psi, you need a water pressure regulator. On average, reducing the system pressure by 10-20 psi can save you thousands of gallons a year in your home.
This is classic example of why it is important to contract/employ a professional/licensed/insured PLUMBER ... that is educated within the discipline of hydraulics engineering! Ha!
Thanks! That was helpful! I need to add, that when you want to lower the pressure, you will have to turn on the water somewhere in the house after adjusting the screw. Otherwise you won’t see a change on the gauge. After releasing the pressure it will settle to your new set pressure 😊
Perfect 🎉
Just wanted to mention that your backyard is beautiful! Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.
Excellent tutorial! Just bought a water pressure gauge, and increased our water pressure with no problem. Note: I had next to no knowledge about plumbing, so thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much. I was able to check the pressure and lower it myself. I especially liked the recap at the end.
Shouldn't you loosen the lock nut on the bolt before adjusting the pressure and then tighten it again when you're done?
😀 I thought I was the only one to catch this. You are 100% correct
Na bro your overthinking it. 😅
Agreed Some Guy... if the lock nut served no purpose then why would it be there in the first place?
How much do you loosen it?
Yes. He forgot to loosen the bolt before adjusting the pressure! 😢 Then tighten it back when you’re done.
very informative. bardi HVAC came out to do a "complimentary" plumbing inspection. dude tried to charge me like 700 bucks to adjust the water pressure. man these people are INSANE
Oh wow!
Thank you so much. Our garden hoses kept bursting. I have tried everything. So now I have lowered the water pressure & hope that solves the problem.
Sohhh, how did that lowering of property/house pressure work out for you? ... suspect searching for real engineered "SOLUTION"?
What pressure did you start with that ruined your hoses? What did you end up setting it to?
Thank you. I have had to learn how to be independently proactive in caring for my home. Your instructions were very clear. I am right at 60 psi. Very empowering. How often should I do this?
You probably want to do it every day before you shower just to make sure you have the right water pressure.
He forgot to mention if your water pressure doesnt increase after turning the head of the bolt clockwise, you need to replace that regulator since it's bad. Usually after 20 years. it needs replaced. The new water regulators come in 5/8 inch and 1/2 inch for home use. They run about 100 + bucks. ( as of this posting 3-13-2024. )
Wow-- so well explained, Dino! Your's is without question the BEST plumbing-related video I've seen all week!
Wow, thanks! You're my biggest (only?) fan. ;-)
Ha, ha, ha.
@@1-Tom-Plumber
Quick question: I noticed that if I leave the pressure gauge attached to the garden spigot/bib, the pressure will slowly increase. For example, it starts at 50 when I turn on the valve, but it rises to about 60 if I leave it there for 20 mins. What causes that?
Your video did not say to wait... is the instantaneous reading (black handle) accurate or should we pay more attention to the red handle?
Great Video + info. Thank you. Had my mom's refrigerator water line valve start leaking, got it replaced, then found the refrigerators water valve was leaking way worse too. I was wondering what would cause both to go at the same time..... All I could think of was too high of a water pressure..... So I needed to look into checking it myself. 1950's house, (some) new lines, 18 year old fridge, has been too many half a** "plumbers/workers" worked at my mom's house, along with other problems too, and ....me....
Sadly with very little knowledge of those things. So,.. I figured I'd give some things a shot. Can't/Shouldn't do any worse than the people that were hired. Lol.
Thank you. I appreciate it.
seems that you listened a bit too loosley?
interesting video, done well. I know many cities that don't have pressure regulators before or after the water meter.
Thank you!
Thank you. Our pressure adjustment unit is new style, then the screw driver dent knob is pretty much worn out. I was able to use a wrench and adjust this time. I may change the unit when possible...
Glad it helped!
Thank you thank you!! Our water pressure got turned up to high by the people doing our water softener sysyem and i was able to fix it myself! It was actually 10 over recommend on our tag
No problem! I'm glad we could help out.
Thank u very much Sir..u test out side, but my kitchen sink has horrible pressure but basement sink super pressure..by testing outside is there a reason for where u put on the tester?
When you adjust the water pressure do you have to shut the main city water line before turning the screw to asjust the pressure?
Very good video, very well explained 👍🏽
Glad you liked it!
Great video but stuck on one thing.... which outside spigot do you attach it to? Like with most houses, I have two. One is closer to the intake, the other is on the other side of the house. The one closest to the intake reads about 55 on the black hand. The other one reads 85. Which do I go with?
Always go with the highest reading
Great video, very informative for someone who didn't know anything about this!
Thank you for the very nicely done video. I have one question. Some of the other resources I have read recommend shutting off the water main. Should I do this?
No.
Hello, thank you for your video! Very well explained! Currently my house has a water pressure of 100+psi and the plumber is recommending replacing the PRV. Instead of replacing, can I adjust the pressure on it so that it's around 75? The PRV might be around 15 years old though. Thank you!
Maybe you should ask the plumber that question. Did he try to adjust the pressure to a lower value? Maybe he just wanted to make a quick buck and sell you something you did not really need. I would have tried to adjust the pressure to see if you can lower it yourself. If you can not lower the pressure then maybe you do need a new valve.
Thank you - this was a big help! Very detailed but not long and tedious detailed.
Glad it was helpful!
Can water pressure be checked from hot water tank drain valve. I was told to check pressure just like you showed in this video
Thanks for the great video. Is the pressure the same for pex water lines? 👍
How fast should you turn ON the spigot or does it not matter?
Try about 45 MPH.
@@__GALLANT__ 😂😂😂
How come you didn't loosen the bolt below the bolt that lowers and raises the water pressure? Do you need to shut off the water main before you adjust the pressure? Thanks!
What pressure would you recommend for a 27 yr old house woth pcv plumbing.
good quality video and audio. what camera is this?
Problem is with my house, I can’t find the dern regulator. Got any tips for that. That don’t involve trenching my yard or tearing a bunch of Sheetrock up?
If you can't find the regulator, there are a few things you can try before going into major projects like trenching or tearing down Sheetrock. First, check near your main water shut-off valve; in most homes, the regulator is located close to where the main line enters the house. It could also be in a utility area like a basement, garage, or crawl space. Sometimes, it's installed on the exterior wall if the main line comes in from there.
If you’re still having trouble, consider using a stud finder or an infrared camera to locate hidden pipes behind walls without causing any damage. Hope this helps! Let me know if you need more details.
I live in a residential place with a second floor. The water supply does not come from a well. When I moved in I noticed our whole house had low water pressure. We changed out all of the out-dated pipes and had the same result. I had my plumber install a Grundfos Scala 2 booster pump that conveniently began to leak after the warranty. Before trying to repair this device, is there another water pressure booster device that the plumbing community can recommend that has a history of reliability? TYIA
Thanks for sharing your experience! When it comes to boosting water pressure reliably, many plumbers recommend the DAB E.sybox or the WaterBoost CMBE Series from Grundfos. Both have a reputation for consistent performance and durability. Another option you could look into is installing a constant pressure system with a reliable pressure tank. These systems help regulate and maintain steady water pressure throughout the house. It might also be worth having a plumber check for other potential causes of low pressure, like partially closed valves or sediment buildup. Hope this helps, and good luck with finding the right solution!
Tried to lower the pressure but screw came completely off, can this be fixed??
Our pressure had always been very low. It only became an issue when there wasn’t enough pressure to flush my boat engine. So I tested it and it was at 20 psi. I adjusted it to 60 and now the engine is discharging with the hose just fine. Anyway, should I adjust it back down? Or do I need to worry about it spiking and becoming too high? I just don’t want any leaks with too much pressure. It’s at 60 now
I see that you reply back- good, so my question is that I live in an apt./condo ( I own it) and we had to all change our water tanks. I have the expansion tank and a brass "t' valve for the expansion tank. To put on the tank I have to know the water pressure to correctly hook up the expansion tank so how do I go about this being that I do not live in a house like you show but live in an apt building and so l can not tell all the tenants not to use their water just so that I can test my water pressure. We do have the relief valve going from my water tank to the outside of the apt. just so you know.
How do you check the pressure in the bath tub where that won’t fit on it. The outside faucets have good pressure. Inside the kitchen, washroom and bathroom not so much. How do you increase the pressure inside the house?
My adjustment runs right into my water softener, does that change anything for me when adjusting my pressure?
What was the psi after the short turn?
Very simple and informative.
Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure
Hi Dino, how do I find the water pressure in my closed hydronic heating system? Thanks.
what if i dont have a hose bib? I do have a slop sink in the basement...
Great video very well explain, I thank you!! my water pressure is fine and so is my "Blood Pressure" I`d twice busted pipes.
hahaha glad we could help out
I have the exact same pressure reader. My black arm is on about 62 psi and the red arm reaches past 100 psi. What’s the highest the red arm should reach.
Great question! The red arm on your pressure gauge typically indicates the peak pressure reached in your system. Ideally, you want to keep your water pressure between 60 and 75 psi to avoid putting strain on your pipes and fixtures. If the red arm is showing over 100 psi, that's definitely on the high side and could lead to leaks or damage over time. I’d recommend having a plumber check your pressure regulator to make sure it’s functioning properly, or consider installing one if you don’t have one already.
I also read that if the black arm is below 80 and red arm above 80 that it could be the thermal expansion tank rather than the pressure regulator. But I don’t see a thermal expansion tank on my water heater, which was replaced in 2021 in a home built in 2001. Does this mean it is definitely the pressure valve regulator? thanks.
Hi there. Question. My water pressure is awful. Inside my home I did the test at the faucet, timing how long it took to fill 1 Liter. It took 30 seconds to fill 1 liter. The instructional advice was that it should take 6 seconds to fill 1 Liter. I do not have that bell with the adjusting bolt inside my home to adjust the water pressure. I only have the water shut off valve at the main coming into my home, in my basement. Should I have one of those bells put on? The other thing is the city has the outside meter in my yard, set between 30 and 35 PSI. I understand it should be set on 60 PSI. Is there a way to increase the water pressure between that outside meter and my house since the city has it set so low at the meter? The water pressure often drops to 10 PSI, and lower, barely coming out and this occurs often, nearly daily. And it's caused me to even ruin washing white clothes in my washer with a little bit of bleach, and ive gotten very sick with stomach cramps, diarrhea and such as well, from drinking the water at such low PSI. What can I do? Thanks.
Why does the pressure on my gauge jump way up when I first turn the water on, but almost immediately settle back down to about 50. I didn't see that when you first turned your water on.
Nice presentation and thanks for sharing.
Thank you for commenting!
What if you turn it counterclockwise and pressure doesn’t go down?? Home built in 2020.
Is there a maximum before problems arise? What types of problems? Mine just went UP. NO regulator to adjust.
Don't go over 80 PSI, most homes need 40-60 psi. Any more than that and it can cause problems
Pressure tester started at 65 psi. Red max was stuck and shot up to 90 psi today. Ug.
Time to get that fixed, hopefully there is a 1-Tom-Plumber in your area!
Will the bolt adjuster in a pressure regulator valve come out if you turn it too many times to reduce water pressure?
I need to turn my pressure down but I am not sure if the old regulator is working or just has been turned up too high previously.
Thank you! It was a great information 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
I attached the gage with nonwater running and received a 150psi reading. Adjusted the screw and nothing changed. I then turned on the faucet and reading dropped to around 35. Stayed around 35 but the faucet still sputters. Aside he sputtering the prv had a leak. Waiting a little bit before i go back to that part.
I need to faucet 2 stop shaking 😫
My outside line branches off before my pressure reducing valve, how can i check my pressure?
Try your laundry sink or washer hookup.
Hi Tom, what happens if I have two different showers in the house, and one gets great pressure and the other one is terrible. I have removed the actual shower heads from both so there is absolutely no obstructions, and still it's the same thing. One has great pressure and the other one stinks. I've tried 4 or 5 different shower heads that are supposed to increase the pressure, but NONE of them have worked.
What is the manufacturers name on the shower valves?
I checked my pressure on a outside spigot and it read 60. I then double checked it and it was reading 100. Am I doing something wrong?
No, not if you want your water pressure to be 100.
Why does it have to be tested on an "outside" faucet?
Tfs this info, it appears my pressure needs reducing, my monitor says 100 and it looks like water has entered it!
Can this be happening as a result from the underground water issues my property has been happening?
Yes but possibly no.
What if the red mark reaches 140 immediately upon opening the faucet but the black mark stays at 70? Can someone help with this.
Having the same issue..
Thanks for the video. What if the black needle shoots up initially to around 80 and then settles down to around 60 and stays there? Is where it stops the correct measurement? Thanks!
You're welcome! The average household psi is anywhere from 40-80, if it steadily reads 60, you're good to go :)
@@1-Tom-Plumber Mine shot up to around 78 and stayed there, but when I turned off the water at the home owner shutoff valve at the street it slowly sinks but stays around 64. Is this normal? Why does it sink and then go stable? Is this an indicator of a leak where it drops down and gets stable at the rate of the leak? My water meter reads 0.0 for a rate at the street with nothing shut off. Is the pressure test more sensitive than the rate shown on the meter? Thanks in advance for reply.
With the shower on . Should the water pressure maintain the same pressure as if NO water is running ??
Yes and no.
This is very helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I want to reduce the water pressure, if I keep on turning counterclockwise, will the screw pop out causing a leak?
Yes
of course it will, thats why he recommends a 1/4 turn, go and check and keep repeating the process until the desired setting is reached.
Well, maybe I should put in a PRV, I'm a little worried that water will be coming out of the sockets soon, the enamel tub is almost down to bare metal.........
This guy needs to redu this video. There is a big difference between outside pressure and in-house pressure.
Well please explain the difference.
Thanks, this was great information!!👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, very helpful!!!
I don't understand as the outside tap is before the PRV; so reducing the PRV did not change the outside tap pressure, which is off the mains?! so confused
We have a toilet that when you flush it the water line for the fridge icemaker squeals while the toilet refills. The sink beside the toilet cold water nearly comes to a stop when toilet is flushed. The squealing noise isn't at the toilet though. It is behind the fridge. Brand new water regulator. I can't test water pressure this way because the outside faucet is before the refrigerator. I'm stumped.
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
Thanks!
No problem!
Exelente tutorial thxs
No problem! Glad you found it helpful.
Plumbing Theory Question: Would it be possible to isolate a section of baseboard to prevent the pipes from freezing by cutting in shut off ball valves where it breaks off the system at the supply, 1 where it joins the return, and spigot in the middle to drain the line after it's shut off?
I ask because my house has an addition my parents put on when I was a kid and whoever ran the baseboard literally ran the supply outside the foundation of the house before going up into the floor of the addition.
No.
Thank you so much for this video!!
Thanks
No problem!
Thank you.
You're very welcome! Hopefully this information served you well.
Great video
Ha. I always thought you were stuck with the pressure you had!
:-)
Lol me too. Just today am I learning about this.
Same here 😆
Same!
Excelente!
Thx, helpful
No problem!
Thank you very much, helpful, will help me check my water pressure and if, necessary making recommended changes.
Glad it helped!
thx Dino this was informative and it helped me ........like 17 2 15 22 ........btw my brother's name is Dino .........glad I viewed this clip........Mark
Glad I could help, Mark! Appreciate it. There aren't many of us Dinos around...gotta take care of each other. LOL
@@1-Tom-Plumber true......I will ck out some of ya other vids on how to........stay safe man.......& if ya have some time come on over 2 listen .......I hope ya enjoy some of my music........Mark
@@webnet15 Holy cow, Mark. Just started listening to your featured video. Fantastic. I'll like and follow!
@@1-Tom-Plumber Dino thx man.......
2:42 Did you really turn the knob the wrong way....
How do you know if you need a pressure reducer valve, the meter reading is between 50 and 130 psi
If the water pressure level coming into your home from the city exceeds 80 psi, you need a water pressure regulator. On average, reducing the system pressure by 10-20 psi can save you thousands of gallons a year in your home.
And if your house lacks a prv, you need to call a plumber asap.
Best to perform additional research before trust of this singular approach
This is classic example of why it is important to contract/employ a professional/licensed/insured PLUMBER ... that is educated within the discipline of hydraulics engineering! Ha!