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3 ปีที่แล้ว +3
Hello my friend, I once had this Hikori Ontario hunting knife. Now I remember. But it was lost. I followed a nice sharpening process with Shapton stones. It was a razor sharp hunting knife. good job. Congratulations. Thank you for sharing. See you. stay healthy and happy. Big greetings. With all respect.
Ontario Knives never used 5160 carbon steel in the "Old Hickory" line of knives. They used to be 1095 high carbon steel but was changed to 1075 medium-high carbon steel in the mid 2000.
I made the video same time ago and I don't know where I got the information that it is a 5160 carbon steel. I am sure I have read it somewhere as I am not a specialist in metals. :) I have google it now and you seem to be right. :)
For 10k grit chosera is offering a stone wich is horrible expensive so not too many people will test it. I don't have it. Shapton 12k (I just got one last week) is more affordable, but in my opinion a 5k and a strop is more than enough for a knife.
@@DanielWorkshop some methods work better than others. some steels and some knives don't matter very much, because they are cheap or cheaply made, so they can be sharpened incorrectly. i prefer to correctly sharpen all of the cutting edges I use, axes, chainsaws, kitchen knives, hunting knives, sawmill blades etc.
For a beginner when stroping a knife try holding it with a finger on the blade, start at the tip and push to the base on a flat strop after finding the bevel of the blade. It will help you to not lift the knife and drag the edge flat.
G'Day Daniel, Came across your videos (movies) while searching for scissor sharpening information and found the information there quite helpful. However, watching some of your knife sharpening videos I was quite disturbed to see that you use the edge leading technique rather than edge trailing. Man . . . . not cool on whetstones, very uncool !!! Do you used edge leading on a leather strop ????? Think of your whetstone as a hard leather stop. Edge leading is a bit of a hangover from oil stone sharpening where either push or pull is quite acceptable due to the hardness of the stones I guess. Seems to have been transferred to whetstone use probably by Amuricans who wouldn't know if their own arse was on fire most of the time.
Hey John, Thank you for your feedback. I use edge leading because is much faster that edge trailing. And reading what you wrote now I understand why I like hard stones. To be honest there is no right way of doing it but I might try to sharpen a knife only with edge trailing technique and see how it goes.
@@DanielWorkshop You're quite right Daniel, there is no right or wrong way here. If it works for you it's all good, as they say. My sharpening experience with oil stones goes back nearly 60 years (yes, I'm an old bugger) and still use the old oilies on chisels and hand plane blades in the workshop here. Transitioned to water type stones for kitchen knives a few years ago and absolutely love their superior performance on good knife steel. Sort of learnt the hard way I guess on the 1000 side of a King KDS 1000/6000 that you can't push sharpen on a softer stone unless your angle is 100% perfect. Since the King experience I have extended the whetstone collection with a few Shaptons, a 320 and a 1000. Then discovered Naniwa stones, and they are just fantastic on good steel. A 220 grey brick, great for reprofiling and thinning. Also have the Naniwa 400, 600, 800, 1000, 3000 and 5000. All brilliant stones for good steel. Trailing edge will definitely leave more of a bur on your apex and as such, stropping strokes on the stone will be more necessary. And of course leather with compound then bare leather to finish. Fascinating process . . . . love it. Stay sharp
Hey again you old bugger. :) To be honest Shapton are my favorites. I have tested also the Naniwas but I don't like them that much. Actually I hate the superstone series. They are getting clogged very fast and they stop cutting. Professional and Chosera are much better but not as fast as Shapton (in my opinion).
@@DanielWorkshop LOL . . . Hey youngster. . Was warned off the superstone series for the very reason you mention. The Choseras and Professionals are prefered here. They work very nicely on Carbon steel, VG10 and SG2 for me. Didn't continue the Shapton Pro series because I found their 1000 a little too course for a 1K stone (closer to 700 or so) and the 320 dished out very fast doing some thinning on a carbon steel gyutoh. Will be trying out some of the Nano Hone series in the future. They sound like a good thing, on par with the Shapton Glass series but better value/thickness. Keep the vids coming dude, your commentary is much easier to understand than those bloody Septic Tanks (yanks)
Shapton Pro (Kuromaku) are very bad under 1000 grit. Even the 1000 is as you said closer to 700 I don't mid it because it very fast and it does not make almost any slurry. And the 2000 and 5000 are in my opinion better than the Naniwas only because Naniwa makes slurry. I don't like stones that make slurry. :) Regarding the Nano Hone almost impossible to get it where I live but who know what might be coming my way. :)
If you like my movie please subscribe by clicking here:
tinyurl.com/y47sasv4
It will help me a lot if you like and share my movie. :) Please watch the other movies that I have made: tinyurl.com/yyj6a8me
Hello my friend,
I once had this Hikori Ontario hunting knife. Now I remember. But it was lost. I followed a nice sharpening process with Shapton stones. It was a razor sharp hunting knife. good job. Congratulations. Thank you for sharing. See you. stay healthy and happy. Big greetings. With all respect.
Ontario Knives never used 5160 carbon steel in the "Old Hickory" line of knives. They used to be 1095 high carbon steel but was changed to 1075 medium-high carbon steel in the mid 2000.
I made the video same time ago and I don't know where I got the information that it is a 5160 carbon steel. I am sure I have read it somewhere as I am not a specialist in metals. :) I have google it now and you seem to be right. :)
the accent makes the video much more interesting, good job👍
Thank you. I am counting on it. 😁
Nice work, been using Shaptons for years now and are my favorite water stones.
Same here!
For polishing grit such as 10k, how did the shapton compare to chosera ? which is better and smoothest finish ?
For 10k grit chosera is offering a stone wich is horrible expensive so not too many people will test it. I don't have it. Shapton 12k (I just got one last week) is more affordable, but in my opinion a 5k and a strop is more than enough for a knife.
@@harisyoung4110 They are fairly similar but start to get expensive. I rarely go beyond 8k and only do for straight razors.
Thank you for the great video.
Thank you for watching. 🙂
I have always sharpened blades in long, full sweeps along the entire edge. Never short or swirling rubs.
Each one has it's own technique. Whatever works.
@@DanielWorkshop some methods work better than others. some steels and some knives don't matter very much, because they are cheap or cheaply made, so they can be sharpened incorrectly. i prefer to correctly sharpen all of the cutting edges I use, axes, chainsaws, kitchen knives, hunting knives, sawmill blades etc.
Good for you.
For a beginner when stroping a knife try holding it with a finger on the blade, start at the tip and push to the base on a flat strop after finding the bevel of the blade. It will help you to not lift the knife and drag the edge flat.
Just picked up a full set of them. Thank you for this!
Thank you for the feedback. 😀
nice content, nice video, congratulations, I wish you success🔔
Thank you.
G'Day Daniel,
Came across your videos (movies) while searching for scissor sharpening information and found the information there quite helpful.
However, watching some of your knife sharpening videos I was quite disturbed to see that you use the edge leading technique rather than edge trailing. Man . . . . not cool on whetstones, very uncool !!!
Do you used edge leading on a leather strop ????? Think of your whetstone as a hard leather stop.
Edge leading is a bit of a hangover from oil stone sharpening where either push or pull is quite acceptable due to the hardness of the stones I guess. Seems to have been transferred to whetstone use probably by Amuricans who wouldn't know if their own arse was on fire most of the time.
Hey John,
Thank you for your feedback. I use edge leading because is much faster that edge trailing. And reading what you wrote now I understand why I like hard stones.
To be honest there is no right way of doing it but I might try to sharpen a knife only with edge trailing technique and see how it goes.
@@DanielWorkshop You're quite right Daniel, there is no right or wrong way here. If it works for you it's all good, as they say.
My sharpening experience with oil stones goes back nearly 60 years (yes, I'm an old bugger) and still use the old oilies on chisels and hand plane blades in the workshop here.
Transitioned to water type stones for kitchen knives a few years ago and absolutely love their superior performance on good knife steel. Sort of learnt the hard way I guess on the 1000 side of a King KDS 1000/6000 that you can't push sharpen on a softer stone unless your angle is 100% perfect.
Since the King experience I have extended the whetstone collection with a few Shaptons, a 320 and a 1000.
Then discovered Naniwa stones, and they are just fantastic on good steel. A 220 grey brick, great for reprofiling and thinning. Also have the Naniwa 400, 600, 800, 1000, 3000 and 5000. All brilliant stones for good steel.
Trailing edge will definitely leave more of a bur on your apex and as such, stropping strokes on the stone will be more necessary. And of course leather with compound then bare leather to finish.
Fascinating process . . . . love it.
Stay sharp
Hey again you old bugger. :)
To be honest Shapton are my favorites. I have tested also the Naniwas but I don't like them that much. Actually I hate the superstone series. They are getting clogged very fast and they stop cutting. Professional and Chosera are much better but not as fast as Shapton (in my opinion).
@@DanielWorkshop LOL . . . Hey youngster. . Was warned off the superstone series for the very reason you mention. The Choseras and Professionals are prefered here. They work very nicely on Carbon steel, VG10 and SG2 for me.
Didn't continue the Shapton Pro series because I found their 1000 a little too course for a 1K stone (closer to 700 or so) and the 320 dished out very fast doing some thinning on a carbon steel gyutoh.
Will be trying out some of the Nano Hone series in the future. They sound like a good thing, on par with the Shapton Glass series but better value/thickness.
Keep the vids coming dude, your commentary is much easier to understand than those bloody Septic Tanks (yanks)
Shapton Pro (Kuromaku) are very bad under 1000 grit. Even the 1000 is as you said closer to 700 I don't mid it because it very fast and it does not make almost any slurry. And the 2000 and 5000 are in my opinion better than the Naniwas only because Naniwa makes slurry. I don't like stones that make slurry. :)
Regarding the Nano Hone almost impossible to get it where I live but who know what might be coming my way. :)
I was told not to bend the wrist
In my opinion there is no standard recipe. I do what is works for me. :)