Here's Why You NEVER Mess With Factory BALL JOINTS!!

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น •

  • @artfisher1235
    @artfisher1235 2 ปีที่แล้ว +101

    Congratulations on becoming the world leading salesman for complete control arm / ball joint / bushing assemblies.

    • @ahmadghosheh3104
      @ahmadghosheh3104 2 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Absolutely. Unless you have a 10 ton press of course. But who buys one for once every 5 years job?

    • @jmartin9785
      @jmartin9785 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Right on Art! Lots of blab out there! 🌈

    • @jmartin9785
      @jmartin9785 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@ahmadghosheh3104 Truth! Great Truth! 👍

    • @omgpk2133
      @omgpk2133 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@ahmadghosheh3104 I bought a 20 ton press.....Lmao

    • @ProleDaddy
      @ProleDaddy 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@ahmadghosheh3104 That's definitely not the only time you'll use a press, if you're doing all your own work. I also have a 20 ton HF shop press.

  • @arontesfay2520
    @arontesfay2520 2 ปีที่แล้ว +56

    12:15 Always go with grade 8 bolts for these kinds of applications. Those general purpose bolts they sell by the unit in Lowes/Home Depot shear pretty easily. They're not for structural applications.

    • @dnlmachine4287
      @dnlmachine4287 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Agreed. Also, greasing the forcing screw/bolt threads is standard for any press/puller tool.
      Fine threads have more threads per inch as well. Sometimes thats the difference in getting the job done.
      Stay gold.

    • @justint5625
      @justint5625 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yup 🤦‍♂️

    • @markchidester6239
      @markchidester6239 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I think he wanted something with threads the whole length.
      I was yelling at him too.
      A stack of double thick washers would make up for the lack of threads on a hardened bolt.

  • @richarddannov5784
    @richarddannov5784 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I feel your pain as far as bushings go. Was trying to save money pressing out and in replacement control arm bushings on an Isuzu Ascender. The uppers were possible with the ball joint C clamp tool but the lowers are just impossible. After 3 days I dropped the lower control arms off at a mechanic who charged $125 an hour. It wouldve been better (and cheaper) to just buy new lower arm assemblies with everything already installed. This is how we learn.

  • @josephdunkle1152
    @josephdunkle1152 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Congrats on doing it mostly yourself and learning during the process. Bushings are no joke. I ended up just buying the control arm assemblies with bushings and ball joints already installed, mainly because I don't have all the right tools.

    • @thJune
      @thJune 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      For a GMT400? If so can you share the link?

  • @BraydenSB
    @BraydenSB 2 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    Could've used a ball joint press for the control arm bushings

  • @billschaeffer7903
    @billschaeffer7903 2 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Hilarious that your solution to your stainless bolt breaking twice was to grind the teeth off your socket instead of getting a hardened steel bolt lol

    • @ronniewilliz153
      @ronniewilliz153 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I hope he knows about grade 8 also. an you gotta learn somehow

    • @jester1614
      @jester1614 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      That's probably not stainless, looks to me like a zinc plated A307a hex bolt

  • @EricErnst
    @EricErnst 2 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    I put polyurethane bushings back in mine. They don't deflect like rubber bushings do. I also drilled and tapped the control arms to accept a grease fitting so I can lube them up when I'm servicing the truck.
    A hydraulic press would have helped a lot on yours. The bolt and spindle nut socket was a good idea. If you needed a longer bolt, you could have used a big piece of all-thread.
    I've heard good things about mevotech. I just used duralast gold parts on mine. They've got a lifetime warranty so if I have to redo it in rhe future, it will be cheaper.
    Looking forward to the rest of this series.

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the input!! 👍

    • @stevea6722
      @stevea6722 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@1RoadGarage If you use a bolt or all thread the same diameter as the OEM pivot bolt on those bushings it will help keep everything aligned. Might have to drill the 1/2" square drive hole out to match but after cutting the ears off that front hub socket it doesn't really matter. If you use the polyurethane bushings generally you leave the outer shells of the bushings in place and remove the rubber along with the inner metal sleeve. A propane or mapp gas torch will help with removing the rubber and sleeves.

    • @thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259
      @thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Delrin is another good material.

  • @dennissecor8092
    @dennissecor8092 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice job, I bought a ball joint removal, and installer tool, from HF, I have a 01express van, 1500, I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, and upper and lower control arm bushings, water pump, timing chain and gears, hI volume oil pump, evap, coil, a/c compressor, receiver drier, plus the spider fuel injection, its a conversion van, that's my home, so i want to keep it running great, and it does!

  • @arontesfay2520
    @arontesfay2520 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I've rebuilt suspensions by pressing out and pressing in bushings and ball joints. It can get pretty frustrating the first time. It took me way longer than I initially planned. Once you have the experience of doing it the first time, it's a lot easier the next time since you kind of already have an idea of the things you should and shouldn't do.
    With the bushings, it is possible to press them in with a ball joint press. The most important part is preparing the inner surface of the control arm and then applying grease to it as well as the outer sleeve of the bushing. That will minimize the chances of it seizing when you're pressing it in. Just start pressing it in and back it a up a little if it goes in cockeyed and starts seizing. The further it goes into the control arm, the less chance of it seizing. Once it's halfway in, it should go in the rest of the way without a hitch. Another tip is to put the bushing in a freezer for a few hours before you press it in and then heating up the control arm with a torch/hot air gun. You'll have to work a little fast though because the heat will transfer to the bushing although the grease acts as an insulator and slows down the heat transfer.
    Best of luck!

  • @Katya5cat
    @Katya5cat 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    For the guys without access to a press B7 all thread. It's made from hardened stock. Not as hard as Grade 8 but close. Fine thread B7 might have made the job easier. Almost all of my higher capacity pullers use a fine thread screw. With the all thread, length isn't a problem. Also you may have been able to drill out the square drive to the exact size of the bushing hole and used a bigger threaded rod and therefore got more pulling/pushing capacity. You did pretty good for a newb.

  • @snortder
    @snortder 2 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Cover that fiberglass insulation in that garage... breathing in fiberglass dust can eventually destroy your lungs.

  • @jon-christiankaczor5384
    @jon-christiankaczor5384 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I been wrenching for 30 years and gotta say mevotech is hands down best bang for your buck

  • @MrBowNaxe
    @MrBowNaxe 2 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    Good stuff Jimmy! I had a similar issue and ended up breaking a cup or two pressing replacement bushings in. Ended up using a press to get it done. Haven't done that since...gone with straight replacement of a "loaded" control arm. Worth every penny. I get why you wanted to do it yourself but time and effort isn't worth it. Good video none the less. Thanks for sharing.

    • @geraldscott4302
      @geraldscott4302 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you are talking about a complete control arm assembly, they have the same JUNK ball joints and bushings on them that you can buy separately. Even genuine GM, Ford, and Fiat/Chrysler parts are now made in China. Newer cars are no longer safe to drive, not only because of all the failure prone GARBAGE technology that needed another 50 years to perfect, but also due to the poor quality of simple mechanical parts.
      And it gets even scarier. Boeing and Airbus are buying airliner parts made in China.

    • @christophervanzetta
      @christophervanzetta 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@geraldscott4302 and these aren’t made in china? 🤣

    • @justint5625
      @justint5625 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good stuff are you kidding me ? What a joke. It’s a 20 min job if you do it right….

    • @justint5625
      @justint5625 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@geraldscott4302 everything is made in China except the box it comes in

  • @NWGarage
    @NWGarage 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Pro tip - throw all new bushings in the freezer for a little while before putting in so molecules shrink and there’s more clearance to get new bushings into arms etc

  • @thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259
    @thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Agree, a complete assembly is the way to go. Same for many wheel bearing spindles.

  • @yellow_noise3
    @yellow_noise3 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Awesome job with bushings. What I'd do extra, just use "blue wrench", meaning a torch to heat UCA around bushing. It helps a LOT

  • @terryzak1742
    @terryzak1742 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is why one of my favored expressions is: "Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you want."
    I think if you had an air hammer (Ingersol Rand $60) it would have made short work of getting those rivets out. I know that's the reason I purchased mine 20+ years ago. After drilling, the chisel bit takes those rivet heads right off, and then a straight bit would drive the rivet shanks right out. But you'd need to mount your shop vise onto a bench, or the ground to hold the ball joint housing.
    Makita makes a great piston style shop compressor (Big-Bore, $210) that's quiet; runs at 1725 rpm or so. Small but heavy, as it's not a toy. I'd say the compressor and the air hammer would add significant capability to your shop. I usually try to get an estimate from a shop to do work, and then that gives me a budget to stay inside. That's made financial sense for many tools purchased over the years, even if they're used once every 5-10 years.
    Cheers.

  • @LakshmananLM
    @LakshmananLM 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks to you I've found the courage to buy complete parts. And get a professional to do the work. Keep up the excellent informative work. Cheers!

  • @BayouBreeze1
    @BayouBreeze1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Should have went to Michine Shop they would have taking the old ones out and press the new ones in, and it would have cost you about maybe 40 bucks if that, I like your Channel for someone who’s never done this kind of stuff your doing a great job Jimmy with your DIYing, stay safe Don from SOCAL

  • @TdrSld
    @TdrSld 2 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    The tool you were looking for is at HB and its called Front Wheel Drive Bearing Remover and Installer Kit. It's about $130 after taxes here in Texas.
    Also any time you're using a threaded rod to pull or push something with any real force. You need to put Anti-seize on the threads and the faces of the washers and nuts, will keep the tool running smooth and make life WAY easier on you.
    Next you need a 20ton hydraulic press at minimum, with a good couple of sets of pressing dies, sleeves, and cups. I have been a Auto Tech for 20 years and I couldn't work fast enough to make money with out a press. But great job non the less and keep learning ways to get things done, it can save you butt out on the trail or road someday.

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thanks! Anti-seize is a good call there. I should have done that.

    • @lebronjordan802
      @lebronjordan802 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Grease will work too!

    • @steveheavener4932
      @steveheavener4932 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      What store is HB?

    • @TdrSld
      @TdrSld 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@steveheavener4932 Sorry that should be HF (Harbor Freight) , but my Dyslexics Butt screwed it up haha. That's why I design the off road truck not right the user manuals MUAHAHA

    • @TdrSld
      @TdrSld 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@lebronjordan802
      "Grease
      Ideal for fast-moving, low load applications, grease is formulated with a base oil and a thickener. Containing no solids or low solids, grease enables parts, such as high-speed automotive ball bearings, to move rapidly without making contact.
      However, grease alone is not suitable for extremely high load and/or very high temperature applications. This is because the oil burns off around 400°F, and its film is not strong enough to hold against pressure from asperity contact.
      Anti-Seize
      Designed to convert torque to tightening force more efficiently, anti-seize is formulated with high solids content and a carrier grease. Because of its high solids content, anti-seize can handle high load applications while still providing lubrication and friction reduction.
      However, anti-seize is not suitable for fast-moving applications, as its high solids content can cause parts to jam.
      Yet unlike grease, the solid lubricant in anti-seize can withstand high temperatures and protect parts from galling and seizure even under extremely stressful environments. This makes it ideal for many nut, bolt and press fit applications." - Bostik web site

  • @garyr7027
    @garyr7027 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    My 97 f150 had the original upper ball joints built into the control arms and was not replaceable. Had to buy the complete upper control arm assembly that did have replaceable ball joints. Made my job real easy.

  • @paulricketts5657
    @paulricketts5657 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'm a mechanic and you just gave me an idea however next time try using a bench vise to press them back in it wrks for me I normally burned them out but watching your video gave me the idea to use the socket and bolt method to remove them 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾thanks

  • @MM_in_Havasu
    @MM_in_Havasu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Thanks for the informative and helpful video, Jimmy! Myself, I'd have just gotten 2 new upper control arm assemblies and saved the old ones to overhaul them at a later time. Either way, you got 'er done and that's all good.
    Looking forward to the next one!

  • @channelview8854
    @channelview8854 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    As for that broken punch, you need to use a starter punch before you go to a pin punch. For the longer screw you can use all thread rod and cut it to custom lengths. It I also available in grade 8 which is much stronger but it may be hard to find. There is always McMaster Carr. If they don't have it you probably don't need it. And I would have lubed the nut and threads with some EP (extreme pressure) grease or, even better, some antiseize. Good video. Thanks for sharing.

  • @spelunkerd
    @spelunkerd 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Astro sell a wheel bearing press kit, with a second kit having some unusual odd sizes, and of course the standard ball joint press kits can be found. The Astro center bolt is 3/4" coarse thread, not as good as the top level kits that are NF threads. Guys who do this all the time sometimes add a cheap thrust bearing and lots of thread lubrication, since much of the wasted energy is turned into heat and galling of the threads. The cool thing about this kind of work is the way odd sizes and circumstances often lead to making your own adapters, which is a fun challenge in itself. Congratulations on getting the job done, it will be a positive life memory! I completely agree with your instinct to follow OEM design features as much as you can.

  • @matthewjames4334
    @matthewjames4334 2 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Coat the washers and bolt head with grease. It’ll reduce the friction/ rotational coefficient
    And help keep you from snapping the bolt when pressing things in and out

    • @rimc8783
      @rimc8783 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Light sanding in the ring where the bushing goes help, plus sanding the prime off the metal part of bushing. Grease up and your ready.

    • @blutorlz3
      @blutorlz3 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I was thinking the same thing, lube it up

  • @MichaelBEarl
    @MichaelBEarl 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I worked in an auto parts store when I was a kid and we had a press for doing these. I must have pressed in and out hundreds of bushings and ball joints. Find an old school parts store (not a big chain one) and many will offer these services. The other thing to do is have the parts and go to a nearby independent garage and they will do this or tell you who can. Harbor Freight sells a pretty inexpensive hydraulic press that is effectively a frame with a bottle jack - you can get a lot of things done with one of those and a bunch of sockets cut down like you did for getting the bushings out.

    • @bronsondicken4499
      @bronsondicken4499 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Or if you have the know how you could have built a press

  • @ManleyHurd
    @ManleyHurd 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    If you want to finish the homemade socket press, get some Allthread and cut it to length. I think you can buy it different lengths but since you need some adjustment I'd get at least 10-12 inches. And if it's the same socket you were using in this video then get the same diameter and thread as the bolt you used.
    Other than that the proper tool for this job is your traditional hydraulic press stand. My friend just picked up the 20ton from HF and we've pressed her wheel bearings, my control arm bushings and a some wheel bearing for my motorcycles.

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I was literally about to buy that same press but decided on letting the shop take care of it for me. I may still pick up that press in the future though.

  • @dudebruhdude
    @dudebruhdude 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great choice in not flipping the ball joints. I helped a family in a flipped k5 blazer that had ran over a ladder on the freeway that sheared off the ball joint and wheel and they both went 65mph in different directions. Watching that will always make me do only factory style thru and thru

  • @jordanlawson6132
    @jordanlawson6132 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    JIMMYYYY AHHHHH. I was in yer boat last summer with my 1500 Silverado. “Ah i can press out the CA bushings I got the tools baby”. Yea when a 3 hour job takes you 5 and you gotta drive that truck to work the next day. If you ain’t got the sweet HF press then spend the extra $75 and get UCA ready to roll with bushings and BJ installed. Oh my god. Home mechanics feel your pain Jimbo! You always learn AFTER the first one baby. Atta boy your hair and beard are flippin beautiful.

  • @MrMattDat
    @MrMattDat 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well, you learned a new lesson AND got the job finished for $30! I call that a success!!

  • @OGSook
    @OGSook 2 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Jimmy, why didn't you just burn out/remove the old rubber bushings and replace them with energy suspension bushings or prothane bushings?

    • @txmechs
      @txmechs 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +1 >>>going to all that trouble might as well upgrade. Also mevotech isn't all it's cracked up to be -> MOOG all the way "The Problem Solver"🤘🏻

    • @alantrimble2881
      @alantrimble2881 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@txmechs Moog has been straight trash since the '90s.

  • @TribalStorm777ForEternity
    @TribalStorm777ForEternity 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Obviously a master Ace 1 mechanic. Thanks for the oddly satisfying video

  • @vincentorona163
    @vincentorona163 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I’m getting ready to do the same job, but I order mevotech control arms to avoid the head ache, extra cash well spent from the looks of it

  • @markchidester6239
    @markchidester6239 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    It was fun watching a guy figure this out. You did a decent job for a first attempt without the knowledge of the proper tools to use.

  • @patthesoundguy
    @patthesoundguy 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Something that helps to remove the rivets is after you drill the heads you can file or take the flapper disk and make sure there is no head left on the rivet so they pull through easier. That truck will drive so much better after all that work for sure.

  • @DH.Maker.Artist
    @DH.Maker.Artist 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    In the future whether you're using a ball joint press or making your own with those bolts you should put grease on the threads. Reduces the friction and gives you more clamping power and less chance of ruining the threads.

  • @justinpass8154
    @justinpass8154 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I've done this before on my 89 Chevy and yea grind of boths sides of rivet made it easy

  • @29madmangaud29
    @29madmangaud29 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Okay, now of course you know if you just take the control arms to somewhere , a shop that has a press you'd have had it done in seconds, but maybe you'd have paid $20 or so. you know right? This is the way I'd had started out, however with that much times, and frustration I would've ended up probably taking it to a shop and having it pressed on. Good Job, showing PERSISTANCE!

  • @philipburrows
    @philipburrows 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Have you thought about having your own hydraulic press, because you can use a bottle jack as the primary power and a couple of strong coil springs (hood mount springs for a semi, or something on those lines) as a return, lifting mechanism to help the bottle jack return to its compact state.

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Been thinking about getting one

    • @catslivesmatter1268
      @catslivesmatter1268 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@1RoadGarage what you really started out with, that 1/2" driver socket is actually a socket called a DUMBBELL SOCKET , it's used for the removal of floor drain and shower drains that are threaded in a drain pipe , I have a full set of these and they can get very expensive depending on the material of the socket , They also have different thickness and are very popular with the right plumbing company

    • @athhud
      @athhud 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@catslivesmatter1268 lol that’s not at all what it is. That is a spindle nut socket for the front axle on a 4wd truck. I think that particular one fits a Dana 44 front axle, but it has been a while...

    • @quademasters249
      @quademasters249 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@1RoadGarage Wife got me a cheap 20 ton for Christmas 10 years ago. I've replace the bottle-jack a couple times. I've used it far more than I expected. My one piece of advice is secure the bottle jack. I had one jump out of the saddle and smash a nice dent in a fender on my car.

  • @axemastersinc3269
    @axemastersinc3269 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    3:01 Next time leave it on the vehicle and use a cold chisel to pop those rivets.

  • @LoneWolf1985BK
    @LoneWolf1985BK 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Just two things:
    1) you give engineers way too much credit for doing it “right”.
    2) your parts store employees sound like register punchers. They could’ve rented you a ball joint press with the adapters and that would serve to press those bushings out.

  • @krustythecarhauler
    @krustythecarhauler 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I use the mevotech ttx control arms and ball joints and such and they are holding up great

  • @jessebaca2750
    @jessebaca2750 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Kenny Loggins brother got this project going in the right direction 👍🏼😊

  • @deanreinglas3679
    @deanreinglas3679 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love your honesty you are very informant and seem to be a great guy... God bless ty for the videos

  • @DragonOfTheSkies
    @DragonOfTheSkies 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So what did the shop you hired do differently? Were they willing to show you their tools and technique?

  • @science999
    @science999 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice video u need an air hammer for those rivets

  • @godstruthwar7410
    @godstruthwar7410 ปีที่แล้ว

    my solution for removing bushings from a Nissan Rogue Subframe ended up being a combination of something like a 34" socket and running through about 7-8 PVC couplers with a sledge hammer.... needless to say... think your solution was likely more sophisticated. There is no feeling like "holy sh*t.... I got all 4 out!".. exasperation & terror -> VICTORY!!!!

  • @tracysellman1562
    @tracysellman1562 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Jemmy, They do make a tool for this job it is a Ball Joint Press it is also used for installing and removing bushings it differs from a traditional floor 2-5 ton press, in that it is more like a big heavy-duty C-clamp with adapters and cups. OTC and even Harbor Feight sells one. I have used them for years and they work great. Just thought I would put that out there for you.

    • @fritzkabeano1969
      @fritzkabeano1969 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      "Rainman Ray" uses that HF tool all the time.......

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks, yes, I actually bought that tool and it didn’t have the cup size I needed. The thing was beefy though!!

    • @SlikLizrd
      @SlikLizrd 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@1RoadGarage YEP. CUP SIZE IS very important -- which is why I prefer a "C" cup -- not too big, not too small -- just right.

    • @i_no_nutin
      @i_no_nutin 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@SlikLizrd 🤣🤣

    • @floridagunrat1625
      @floridagunrat1625 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@SlikLizrd Right on! If the cup size gets too big, they lose their perkiness!!!

  • @MrEyad1990
    @MrEyad1990 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I don't know wich is better, the video editing or his awesome hair.

  • @galevest4545
    @galevest4545 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Those TTK ball joints are the best ball joints and tie rods I've used . I get them from Rock Auto and there very well priced and outperform Spicer aka typical factory ball joints!

  • @cswango1714
    @cswango1714 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I’ve knocked dozens of those out , get a good sharp chisel and a hand sledge and hit the chisel like you mean it.. and you’ll cut and pop them right off, get a decent punch, swing a regular hammer like you mean it, last part of rivet easily pops out

  • @coreymartel1090
    @coreymartel1090 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've personally done this myself for my own truck at the dealership and I hit the bushings in with a hammer. That's why they both press in from the outside. So you can do that.

  • @ruwithlee1970
    @ruwithlee1970 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've done what you did no more! Now days I just pre-order the whole pre-assembled A arm assembly from Amazon Detroit Axle has a great Kit for old Truck for a Decent price.

  • @blutorlz3
    @blutorlz3 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had to give up on the bushings and go to my friends heavy equipment repair and machine tool shop. Ended up using an enormous 200 ton press to get the new ones in.

  • @atsernov
    @atsernov 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The hand tool for the job is called a "press and pull sleeve kit." It's basically a fancy version of what you made with some strong, extra long bolts.
    Of course, the ideal tool for the job is a hydraulic press and some sleeves.
    But, unless you do this kind of thing regularly... It's not worth the expense to buy the tools. Just take them to a shop to get the bushings pressed out and in, or buy a complete control arm with bushings and ball joints if available.

  • @ka2057
    @ka2057 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    For the bushings you could have saved yourself a bunch of trouble, time and money and used either a ball joint press kit with the proper adapters, a bearing removal/installation kit (but only if the forcing screw fits through the center opening on the bushings), a hydraulic press, or just drilled, cut or even burnt them out. No point in reinventing the wheel for common tasks.
    To install new bushings, you can use a ball joint kit also with the proper adapters (they have add-on adapter kits to work with the base kit), a hydraulic press, or, if they make them for your vehicle, press-in poly bushings such as are made by Energy Suspension or Prothane. That's what I did.
    I just removed the bushings from my car's rear upper & lower control arms & trailing arms, six in all. Two came out easy with a ball joint kit but the other four required me to drill through and cut out the hardened rubber and then use a hack saw to cut through the outset metal sleeve to relieve its tension and then the ball joint kit. All together they probably took me the better part of a day.
    Don't try to wing these tasks. Do some research next time and find out about common solutions.

  • @outlawjos3ywales
    @outlawjos3ywales 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Should have gave the guys that pressed them in a shout out in your channel, jmo. Everyman helps another out. I’m sore they would have appreciated it. And passed it on.

  • @johnfitzgerald5158
    @johnfitzgerald5158 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sorry man, I saw something else called a ball joint flip that I thought was a bad idea. Bottom mounting the ball joint is totally fine. Cognito has UCAs for later model Chevys that have bolt on Moog ball joints that allow you to mount on top or below. I mounted below and it worked just fine. If the bolts ever sheer, they are gonna sheer whether top mounted or bottom mounted. It's only going to happen in a severe mishap or accident. I think it is fine to bottom mount and you should do it.

    • @jacobn3160
      @jacobn3160 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Agreed. Not sure if there were others, but I think I was the first to suggest him flipping them a few weeks back. Either way it’s mounted the bolts could shear (Very very unlikely) and will most result in significant front end damage. However, the likelihood of that balljoint overextending and the upper control arm hitting the droop stop repeatedly could snap the balljoint stud in half. I see that much more frequently, that’s why I suggested the flip. Of course I hope those things don’t have to his rig. He made the decision he thought was best to keep him and his family safe, and I can’t knock that. Even though you and I are “right” he didn’t feel safe doing it

  • @spydahed808
    @spydahed808 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have pressed out and pressed in new ball joints hundreds of time with no issues.

  • @David-yy7lb
    @David-yy7lb 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your suburban would be a perfect project for a front solid axle swap and would look awesome 👍🏿....

  • @seanculbreth7108
    @seanculbreth7108 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I ran in to the same problem replacing the lower control arm on my jeep. I used a long threaded stud and used grease on the threads

  • @AntonioClaudioMichael
    @AntonioClaudioMichael 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Mevoteck ttx are amazing balljoints

  • @justinpass8154
    @justinpass8154 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I prefer pro forged but mevotech is my go to for my customers. Never have issues last a long time and they come standard with grease serts

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Good to know. Thanks!

  • @Tablesaw818
    @Tablesaw818 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video Jimmy! Keep knocking them home runs!

  • @georgebonney90
    @georgebonney90 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I usually use a air hammer with a chisel end to brake the heads of those rivets no drilling required usually, thank u sir👍

  • @shootthemoon9549
    @shootthemoon9549 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I did a full suspension rebuild on my Tahoe using Mevotech parts and it was a regrettable experience, bushings were hard as rocks, lube blowing out the seams of the tie rod ends and idler arm and I had to re die the threads on nearly every part. Next time I'll use Moog I thought I had done enough research on Mevotech but those parts were made very poorly.

    • @mikem5475
      @mikem5475 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have to tap and die everything anyways so mevotech doesn't sound so bad, especially since they grease the joints from factory. That doesn't happen often

    • @jacobn3160
      @jacobn3160 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Did you use the TTX? I’ve never seen a problem out of them. The supreme and their standard Mevotech parts aren’t the best though

  • @capman911
    @capman911 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The Kryptonite Company makers of heavy-duty front-end parts recommend putting the ball joints on the bottom of the control arm if the vehicle is lifted. If it is stock put them back the way the factory had installed them on the top.

  • @adaminirenato
    @adaminirenato 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Buongiorno 1ROAD
    piccolo consiglio, la morsa da banco blu che hai usato per tagliare i dentini, usala fissa sul bancone da lavoro, per bloccare i pezzi che stai lavorando e Se non vuoi rovinarli quando li stringi nella morsa usa due pezzi di legno, così farai meno fatica, e non rovini il piano del banco......e se rivesti il piano del banco con il LINOLEUM, i pezzi non scivolano ed è più facile tenerlo pulito...!!
    Comunque fai veramente dei bei lavori, complimenti..! 🤙🇮🇹🤚

  • @29madmangaud29
    @29madmangaud29 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    A lot of work and "TIME"!!!!! Good job, Stubborn Jimmy ! AHAHAHHA I'd have done the same!

    • @1RoadGarage
      @1RoadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yep. Time. Sometimes not worth it yet sometimes it is.

  • @Quis85
    @Quis85 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Wow man I drive a 06 h3 hummer and same kit came plug and play. You did alot of work for nothing. Unless your vehicle doesn't come with the whole upper control arm and ball joint. It was basically take old out. Put new in. But maybe this was the cheaper way. Because yes; even with the H3. I could buy JUST the ball joint and etc. But I was always taught. Work smarter not harder lol. Nevertheless. Great work as always.

  • @darrenbutland2056
    @darrenbutland2056 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Get yourself a heavy duty workbench, preferably 1/2" to 5/8" steel top and mount that heavy duty vise on it. Now that you have those, get yourself a simple 24" manual hydraulic press. Grade 5 bolts won't cut it

  • @markcondrey2297
    @markcondrey2297 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I would go to a truck service center like Tag truck center, they have a hydraulic press that they rent to push in ... And out things like bushings. Heck it's even cheap! Tag truck centers are owned by Freightliner.

  • @nicholassmerk
    @nicholassmerk 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I've done bushings on a Dodge before. I can't remember how I installed them. I may have borrowed a hydraulic press. Did you have a bad bushing? I have one on my Tahoe, under the oil filter that looks bad, so I'd like to do them this year.

  • @XqeDiosxqe
    @XqeDiosxqe 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    For future repairs place bushings in the freezer and heat up control arm will make installing way easier.

  • @edwardglowacki4495
    @edwardglowacki4495 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I’ve learned my lesson a long time ago with changing out bushings on control arms. I have a 12 ton press and have wasted too much time f’ing around pressing them and trying to figure out how to rig up a set up to do it . After buying the bushings and doing it myself or having it done factoring time spent I’m behind the price of buying a complete new arm . If it’s just the ball joint ok but if the bushings need to be changed also go complete and call it a day .

  • @SupportSoldiers113
    @SupportSoldiers113 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey JIMMY..... I wish I can be closer to you bc I have a ton of work in my suburban 95 as well. I don't mind if you become my mentor and teacher because I will needed brother. I watch your channel for advice but it's hard to communicate thru here. I like my truck and I want to keep it. I have problem with the factory alarm, the lights and signals works sometimes, etc.

  • @mrfelix2510
    @mrfelix2510 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for another great video. Looking forward to seeing the final product.

  • @TheShmeebitdog
    @TheShmeebitdog 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I’ve always use a press and it always worked for me

  • @rogercorn8320
    @rogercorn8320 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    It okay man. I ended up having to use a socket too lol. I bought an entire ball joint press kit just to find none were the right size even a little.

  • @AntonioClaudioMichael
    @AntonioClaudioMichael 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Whoot whoot RedHead Steering Gears

  • @Loudpedal10
    @Loudpedal10 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You must have the most sparsely equipped garage in the whole state of Tennessee. A little planning and about $250 at Harbor Freight and you’d have a 12 ton press and a air chisel set added to your system. As it stands now it seems like you made zero progress in upgrading your shop capabilities. You don’t need to spend a fortune on tooling, especially when it’s used infrequently.

  • @gsr2envy
    @gsr2envy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Yes it was entertaining. I laughed when you broke the bolts. Lol

  • @Nord3202
    @Nord3202 ปีที่แล้ว

    All you needed was a cheap $150 shop hydraulic press, comes with the plates. You had the right socket for the bushings. I also use mine for axle bearings and pressing out the ball joint rivets after u drill the heads.

  • @omgpk2133
    @omgpk2133 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    And this is why I picked up a 20 ton press for at home.

  • @MrLunatic1369
    @MrLunatic1369 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    yeah I put Energy Susupension poly's on my '03 Tahoes whole front end, and I am a damn good mechanic, but ripping out those bushings and pressing the new ones in solo at home was NOT EASY!!! Ended up fabbing a tool like this using a bolt from a 3-jaw puller. It is possible, but you'll be cursing all hell beating the crap out these things. Nice vid, stay up Jimmy!

  • @timtimtimmay4654
    @timtimtimmay4654 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    A very large C clamp is helpful instead of a bolt. The socket works well, though. Otherwise you are looking for a press pull sleeve and bearing kit. Speaking of that, that hydraulic press is what we always used at the shop for the bushings.

  • @johnmonter561
    @johnmonter561 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Jimmy, did you see the type of equipment that pressed the bushing in?

  • @selrahc2061
    @selrahc2061 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Yeah fully loaded arm's less pain, Detroit axle sells a nice kit. I am going through a refresh on K3500 Crew.

  • @joshromero87
    @joshromero87 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Master ball joint press tool

  • @abyssalreclass
    @abyssalreclass 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hydraulic press to get the bushings in and out. Sometimes you can get it done with a bench vise as well, but it is hit or miss.

  • @AntonioClaudioMichael
    @AntonioClaudioMichael 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Bushings are pretty easy to install if you use a Vice

  • @scottnovak8903
    @scottnovak8903 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I bought a lemon/ with new inspection sticker, so I reinspection didn't correct inspector he wrote out and stick it, 1995 GMC 2500 vandura, went to Big O tire auto repair, popped my bubble, rearend bad, u joints,shocks easily feel that, control arms ball joints, sadly I loved it strong V6 vortex, immediate tuned up plugs and wires always put platinum plugs, van repairs and labor exceed value plug spent too much, any needs running parts?

  • @goforbroke2
    @goforbroke2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Someone buy or give this man a vice.

  • @stevenmcadams5918
    @stevenmcadams5918 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Terrific 👍

  • @seanculbreth7108
    @seanculbreth7108 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    When using the bolts to get the bushings out, grease the threads of the bolt to reduce the friction.

  • @nathanbrickles6387
    @nathanbrickles6387 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    1. The socket a spindle nut socket for vehicles that have proper serviceable wheel bearings instead of those junk unit bearings...2. Put control arm in oven and bake at 350 for 30 minutes while bushings sit in a deep freezer...you may want to undo all your ball joint work first though...when wasting time rebuilding through away parts like that it is always best to completely strip them down before reassembly

  • @caseyjones1999
    @caseyjones1999 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    all threaded rod works well for that. 1/2" Also schedule 40 PVC can work as the receptacle for the ball joint to be drawn into believe it or not.

  • @lukecollins7129
    @lukecollins7129 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    First video watched. New subscriber for sure. Great video!

  • @cup_and_cone
    @cup_and_cone 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Tractor Supply sells higher quality graded bolts if you ever make more homemade press tools.