We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
A "tip of the hat" for this incredible Video. It is awesome. I will build one, to do just what it is suppose to do. You are truly a genius kind Sir. May Jesus bless you and yours for your talents; that you share with us. Sorry I didn't see this video until today. Thank you and it will go into all of my downloads of your extraordinary videos.
I've seen something like this on a commercial planer for wooden beams, of course the rollers were two big cylindrical hydraulic roller that pressed on the beam from both sides and they were on both the in-feed and out-feed of the planer. This jig should be on the in-feed and out-feed of the planer or as soon as the piece of wood leaves the jig it will twist and just start to parallel plane the board. Also you should first parallel plane the board and then pass it through the jointing jig, that way you have a flat board that won't snag when it engages the out-feed part of the jig. Thanks for the video! Hope implement this in my shop as well.
Great job! I used to clamp pre-planed boards (in thickness) together so that they were wider than tall. It made them stable while going through the planer. This was my short-term jointer-solution. :-) - Keep up the super innovation!
That's brilliant. As a first shot it's just terrific, I can see how the suggestions others have made will improve upon it, but to prove the concept I love it.
Another concept perfectly executed. I disagree with the springs being too strong though . It's better to have alot of force holding it square . Especially when running wider stock through it . Not enough force wouldn't work with really twisted stock . You Nailed It !!!!!
New blades on the planer and then build a jig like this. If it works, I'll get rid of the joiner. I need to get more space in the shop by getting rid of the tools I rairly use.
Great idea and good to build a prototype of something you like to see working and using it helps you to see more in detail of what adjustments and changes would be better and needed for your personal use. Good man. I'm making things myself from old and not great wood so I can see errors and adjustments I need to make before I start buying good wood for final making. I also need to see where it is located and convenience for its frequency of use to incorporate any final ideas. Thanks
1. you're a genius, that is on of the smartest contraptions I have ever seen.2. your drill press sounds wild as hell3. that wrist band magnet thing is the cool as hell and nerdy at the same time.
As a proto type idea it does have alot of promise. I imagine you loose squarenes once the timber leaves the support of the rollers, so outfeed support would help somewhat. For larger pieces a jig that's fixed on a moving sled supporting all the timber would be handy.
This jig seems awesome for accomplishing what you wanted to, square one side to another. However, it does nothing to address the main thing a jointer is used for, and that is making one side perfectly flat. If your material was twisted, the one side would just get squared to the twist, making it a perfect spiral instead of a random one. I do like your concept though.
@Jean - great video. I hope my comment here will help you find a way to add improvements. You might want to do things differently than what I suggest; I only write this in order to make you aware of possible issues to avoid. @Doug sholly - Yes, the jig is definitely better than nothing and as you say, twists would be a problem. Cups and bows would actually also still be problematic, but it should be possible to at least reduce cups and bows by running the piece through multiple times (rotating it 'vertically' 180 degrees each time; eg. flip up/down). @Jean - One thing I noticed is that the fence stops working when the piece exits the sprinig-loaded mechanism. For short pieces, that's a bummer, but for longer pieces it might be useful enough to get a 3m piece out of a 4m rafter. The thickness planer have some rolls that push the workpiece downwards; this means that if there is a cup or bow (especially bow), then the wood will "spring back" when it exits the machine. Still, it will make the workpiece more straight. If there are serious cups/bows/twists, it's worth it to remove the high points with a handplane. You don't need to work for hours on this, just get the rough problems out of the way and use the planed side as the bottom on your planer. Still I recommend using the MDF to improve the flatness of the thickness-planer's table. This will go a long way and sometimes you'll get perfectly flat sides. If I had a handheld router and a thicknesser only, I'd make a 'vise like' jig for the router, so that I could route two rebates in a 2x4 rafter along the edges of one side. Then I'd temporarily glue two 'perfect' strips of wood to those sides. Now those two 'wooden rails' will be perfectly flat and I can use them to run on the MDF, to get the oposite side flat. After that, I'd take off the two strips, and flip the piece 180 degrees to plane the side where the strips were glued. -If you have to run a lot of pieces through, it's better to create a rail on the MDF and not temporarily glue things to the workpiece.
I was about to type the same thing! I like the channel and the guy is good, but this was a lot of effort for something that could've been solved easily
How do you intend on holding the piece "flat" to the surface at a 90 from the blade? Hold downs won't exactly hold it down flat especially, if there's a slight twist to the piece. You did notice he ran what looked like either a 3/4" or 1" small piece through. Table saws and fingers don't mix well.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing and I also think his test piece should've been a 3/4" 1x6 or something like that cuz a 4x4 doesnt need any assistance going through a planer. But a 3/4" 1x6??now that needs assistance lol but yes a taper jig on #tablesaw is much quicker and cheaper and takes up less space .
Thanks man. I think with a bit more tweaking it could work nicely. It won't ever be able to straighten buckled boards but I don't see me getting that from a jig for the planer ever. I guess in that case the router will have to come through.
I just found your channel and love it. The jig is super and will come in handy. One thing I may suggest is that a small and even large space you should use dust mask. Some sort of dust collection is a must as it will cause harm down the line in the future. I realize you may use it when not filming.
Terrific idea! I think I will use MDF with a melamine surface to make it slick. Like you, I have to be stingy with my shop floor space. Thanks for the great idea!
The fence should go the full length of the bed, including over the blade and the outfeed table. With this set up the first part of the timber may be planed square to the fence but as soon as its no longer contacting the fence it will shift and will just plane it parallel to the bottom face. You should be able to apply pressure to the fence to get the required angle the whole time the timer is in contact with the blades this is why the top of a surface planer/jointer is always open with some sort of blade guard.
Hey Adam, I do mention in the video that it is my intention to mimic the infeed assembly on the outfeed side. I don't feel it necessary to have a fence under the blade because it would restrict the height adjustment of the planer and decrease the jigs usability.
I think he was correct as even if you had a second one on the outfeed it could still twist before it reached the outfeed set. I think the idea was clever but not fully realized. If you look at videos others have made using a plainer to flatten a wide board with a sled it could be modified to make a squad side like you are doing here. The way I would do it is like a machinist does and use point loads on one side to push against a square fence. Basically just replace the roller side with clamps that have small pivoting faces (so they are not trying to establish square on their face). Of course to do this the entire sled will need to be lower than the height of the stock and the entire sled goes through as a unit instead of just the stock.
it wouldn't have to be very high just 1" or so to keep the fence connected so the work peice will flow throw instead of having a chance of binding if it doesn't line up exactly
I agree with adding another "brace" at the tail end of the jig. However, I disagree about using a lighter spring. If your piece is out by quite a difference, those springs will hold it from trying to twist back out of "square". Besides, over time, those springs will weaken some anyway. I'd like to see this made out of Oak or Hickory. Honestly, I've never understood why this couldn't be accomplished with using just a planer, thank you for confirming that it can be done.
It seems as there should be support for the piece after the cut. Seems it would taper off if not supported, toward more of an opposing parallel than an adjacent one
"A prototype so I am just going to use the parts I have around the shop." [breaks out tiny wheels on an axle, strong springs, a hinge, and mounting brackets] That's a well-equipped shop
I’ve tried a planer jointer jig 2x. Each time theres to much down pressure in the rollers and no matter what, the piece is squished just enough to prevent a nice strait edge.
As you were showing the first pass through I was thinking" if it had one roller high just under or just passed the cutter head just to help keep the full length in line". Perhaps, same wide fence on out feed. Great Idea though! I would keep same springs but make fence steel angle iron on fence side to make vertical fence face easily changeable , due to marring over time.
Here’s a totally crazy idea: Mount the planer upside down so that the level of its blades align with the surface of your table. With some plates to reduce the gap you then have a planer! You’ll need to make a cut depth by having a lower in-feed side to the out-feed, but theoretically it would work. Probably time to invest in a properly designed jointer / planer combination or two separate machines. Add a power feed and voila - lovely planed and square output. Cheers.
That's not how a planer works though. A planer's in feed table and out feed table are not co-planar. Generally the in feed table is adjustable and sits ~1/16th below the out feed table. If his table is flat it won't actually joint a side, at least not accurately.
I ain’t gonna lie. I was mesmerized by your planer and miter saw transforming from under your bench. As far as using the planer to joint... Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t you running into the same problem running the uneven end on the table when you joint as you would running an uneven face on the table when you plane? The uneven end/face needs to be shimmed and fixed to a flat surface as that flat surface slides through, not the piece by itself. Additionally you either have a larger height limitation or it runs the risk of being unstable to joint a tall piece through the planer.
I realize this is an older video, but there's a really simple table saw jointer jig that's been around for years that works really well, and requires less effort.
Very good idea and I think like you said it needs another fence system at the other side to keep the wood at the same angel all the time...well done ...cheers from Egypt
you could just clamp the material you want to square up to the fence of youre jig(s) and use the jig as a sled , feed the whole thing through the thicknes planer as one piece (so the jig will move through the planer too ) , it will register to the bottom of the jig , and the part you are planing registers to the fence once the top is flat you can move the beam throough it om its own
Hey man thanks for all the comments! Yeah I hear what you are saying and I agree but with that concept your stock is limited to the length of the jig. What I was trying to achieve here was a jig that could handle a wider variety of stock lengths but it's a work work in progress still.
Great concept but for anything two inches or below your router with a flush trim bit and straight edge would be better or a router table with a sixteenth of an inch proud fence on the back the the bit lined up with back fence for pieces wider like 4 inch to width of planer a simple flat surface with some hot glue and wedges work perfectly. Might make it easier for you
Looks like your jig does work, but I think the more accurate means would be the make a jig for your table saw to do the same thing and also take out the curves in your boards. Then you could buy a powered hand plane and make a jig like I have seen here on you tube and use the plane for double duty
While I agree that you don't need a jointer, there is a better way to joint than the jig you built. Instead of using the planer for edge jointing, get a track saw and use that to put a straight edge on your boards. It's easy to do, and easy to store when your done. For flattening boards, build a jig to remove warp using the planer.
Very nice idea. If you think the springs in this attachment are to strong...hmm..what about changing the construction and use a feather board? Just my two cents..
a better idea might be a jig that holds the piece square and perpendicular to the feed bed but that the whole thing goes through the planer. i've seen people make sleds out of MDF/melamine that allows them to put a warped plank of wood on top with some wedges to keep it stiff and run the whole sled through the planer so that the sled bottom acts as the parallel reference surface.
I am aware of the design you are mentioning but what I was trying here was to make a one size fits all type jig that can handle any length of lumber. With the other method you guide pieces need to be the same length as the lumber. My concept is far from perfect I agree but I'm going to mess around with it a bit more with the hope of producing a better result.
I'm trying to wrap my brain around this. If the two faces of the wood pressing against the fence and the wheels are twisted down their lenght, will it not then copy that twist to the face that is being planed by the blades? And what happens to the last part of the wood when it releases from the jig and goes through the planer by itself? Just a friendly inquiry..
Hey, as I explained towards the end of the video, ideally and eventually I will mimic the assembly leading into the planer at the back also. This will pick up the wood when it is exiting the planer and keep it at that angle. Also, the jig is intended to square out corners. If the stock is twisted I am sure that you are correct in your assumption but unfortunately, I haven't tested the jig in that way.
I did not watch till the very end so I did not hear you talk about the extention, my bad. This is a fresh look at jointing with a planer and I am subscribed, so I look forward to seeing how this jig evolves. I am currently busy building the jig with the 6 leveling bars. You have probably seen that one.
Ek kan ook net bysê dat die content wat jy uitsit, van hoë kwaliteit is. Baie inoverend en jy overcomplicate nie dinge nie. My setup is amper identies as joune. Garage, werksbank met alles ingebou ensovoorts. So hierdie channel help my baie.
Idk if this would work but what about using a router with a long bit and a clamped track on the workpiece to follow, that was going to be my temporary solution
Hey man - my new Sawdust Expert t-shirt arrived last week, and I love it! This jig is a neat idea! Do you think this provides better / more consistent results than a simple jig that slides through the planer with the work piece? I've seen lots of other channels build jointing sleds that run through the planer with the work piece, and I'm curious which is the better approach. Keep up the great work!
Hey man. That's awesome! Thanks for the support. I did consider building a jig like that but there were two reasons I decided against it. Firstly, you are adding additional weight that the planer needs to pull through and in the case of narrow planks I feared that there wouldn't be enough force on the stock to pull the entire jig. Also, you are more limited in what length of wood you can put through it. With this jig, the length of the jig does not determine the max length of lumber you can put through the planer.
That's a great point about not limiting the thickness. I picked up a new planer earlier this year, but have not even opened the box yet as I've been finishing up a really large shed build project... But that project should wrap up this week, and I have several projects planned for that new planer - including a jointer jig. Thanks for the tips!
No problem. I checked out your channel and subbed. I'm planning a deck/look-out type project on a farm for my next big build and your "how to build your own rafters" video that I just watched actually helped with a small dilemma I was facing.
Hey, that's fantastic! I'm thrilled to hear that you found something useful in there. :-) Feel free to pester me if you get stuck with anything else, and I'll do my best to help.
I'm confused how does this work as a jointer? There is nothing leveling the piece to register as flat you could do the same with just running the board in the planer alone, this looks like you still need to have at least one square face to Register on the left side of the fence right?
I don’t understand? You could’ve built a taper jig in 10min and used the table saw. You could use a sacrificial fence in a table saw and get an even better result then even a taper jig with the only issue being multiple passes on bad lumber as you can only take 1/8” at a time and that cut remains constant no matter if you have 1/16” twist or 3/16” twist. I used to use a taper jig but you can’t face joint 2x till you cut it dose way to narrow do to growth of cut. Most saws are 3-1/4” depth so even with a sacrificial fence joint you’ll have to joint then Parallel cut the other ended before you can get a full cut through the face. Hands down the partial cut sacrificial fence has given me way better results and is much faster then clamping and unclamping a taper jig every board. If I were to joint with a planer I’d use a sled and shims. This is what I do for 6” and larger boards at least till I can purchase a tracksaw. I would get a jointer but as most in my price range are limited to 6” anyways I may as well go the track saw route which makes more sense. End of the day I fail to see how this actually joints? The only thing I can assume is the jig keeps the rollers from twisting back and forth so I can see it as possible however once your out of the jig that last 12 plus inches is not going to be jointer and will have to be cut off before paralleling the other side.. I gues one could flip the board and put the end in and run a second time but chances are you’ll now have 24” of wasted board ends..
Pretty sure that board is wide enough to run through the Planner on its own without the jig and you would still get the same result should have used a 3/4 inch 1 x 6 then your jig would have been useful cuz you can't put a 3/4 inch 1 by 6 on the edge through a planer not without worrying! Lol anyways,, great idea though, wish you would have used a 3/4 inch 1 by 4 for the test piece instead just my opinion tho.
Is it cold there? I would be dieing wearing that right now...my table is coming along..keep running into snags..yours was easy compared to what Im working with.saw is bigger,planer is bigger,chop saw is bigger..trying to work out a scissor lift settup for the planer and miter saw.I'll get there...keep up the good work man.
So how did that scissor lift idea work out? I was thinking yesterday some type of hydraulic lift or scissor lift would be an awesome way to raise and lower tools into the workbench. Kind of like those TV's that drop down into a footboard.
Nicely adapted. Ive not seen a jig like this before. Another good idea would be to make an L shaped sled to clamp a piece of wood to and feed through the thicknesser. Similar to the table saw jig for jointing. That would eliminate the need for the second fence on the outfeed side. 👍
I don’t see how this would work with twisted boards. As it goes through the roller, different angles will result through the planer blades. In short you’ll still have a wonky board. The only way this will work properly is if the board is held securely so the angle of the board doesn’t vary as it passes through the planer. The more commonly seen jointer jigs for planers with wedges to keep the board in place do this so will result in a flatter surface.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I look forward to the finished version. Keep it up
This is an amazing design. I just got a planer, so if I can use it for jointing and planing, win-win. Thank you for making these videos.
Really nicely done, Jean. I like how your projects often combine woodworking and engineering!
A lot of interesting ideas. There is nothing like a good hobby.
A "tip of the hat" for this incredible Video. It is awesome. I will build one, to do just what it is suppose to do. You are truly a genius kind Sir. May Jesus bless you and yours for your talents; that you share with us. Sorry I didn't see this video until today. Thank you and it will go into all of my downloads of your extraordinary videos.
Great idea & thanks for sharing 🙌🏻
I've seen something like this on a commercial planer for wooden beams, of course the rollers were two big cylindrical hydraulic roller that pressed on the beam from both sides and they were on both the in-feed and out-feed of the planer. This jig should be on the in-feed and out-feed of the planer or as soon as the piece of wood leaves the jig it will twist and just start to parallel plane the board. Also you should first parallel plane the board and then pass it through the jointing jig, that way you have a flat board that won't snag when it engages the out-feed part of the jig. Thanks for the video! Hope implement this in my shop as well.
Great ingenuity
Great job! I used to clamp pre-planed boards (in thickness) together so that they were wider than tall. It made them stable while going through the planer. This was my short-term jointer-solution. :-) - Keep up the super innovation!
That's brilliant. As a first shot it's just terrific, I can see how the suggestions others have made will improve upon it, but to prove the concept I love it.
Thanks! I have been fiddling with a few changes to the concept on paper. Hopefully I'll get the time to test them soon.
Another concept perfectly executed. I disagree with the springs being too strong though . It's better to have alot of force holding it square . Especially when running wider stock through it . Not enough force wouldn't work with really twisted stock . You Nailed It !!!!!
You are a genius!!!!!!!
That's an awesome jig mate. I'm going to have construct something similar to save me buying a jointer!
New blades on the planer and then build a jig like this. If it works, I'll get rid of the joiner. I need to get more space in the shop by getting rid of the tools I rairly use.
Good to see some ingenuity instead of just buying another bit of kit. Well done!
Sehr gute Idee! Ich gratuliere!
Great idea and good to build a prototype of something you like to see working and using it helps you to see more in detail of what adjustments and changes would be better and needed for your personal use. Good man. I'm making things myself from old and not great wood so I can see errors and adjustments I need to make before I start buying good wood for final making. I also need to see where it is located and convenience for its frequency of use to incorporate any final ideas. Thanks
1. you're a genius, that is on of the smartest contraptions I have ever seen.2. your drill press sounds wild as hell3. that wrist band magnet thing is the cool as hell and nerdy at the same time.
I like the design! Nice job. Great thinking.
As a proto type idea it does have alot of promise. I imagine you loose squarenes once the timber leaves the support of the rollers, so outfeed support would help somewhat. For larger pieces a jig that's fixed on a moving sled supporting all the timber would be handy.
A true innovation with low tech hardware. Nicely done. True genius simplicity . 5 stars!
This jig seems awesome for accomplishing what you wanted to, square one side to another. However, it does nothing to address the main thing a jointer is used for, and that is making one side perfectly flat. If your material was twisted, the one side would just get squared to the twist, making it a perfect spiral instead of a random one.
I do like your concept though.
@Jean - great video. I hope my comment here will help you find a way to add improvements. You might want to do things differently than what I suggest; I only write this in order to make you aware of possible issues to avoid.
@Doug sholly - Yes, the jig is definitely better than nothing and as you say, twists would be a problem. Cups and bows would actually also still be problematic, but it should be possible to at least reduce cups and bows by running the piece through multiple times (rotating it 'vertically' 180 degrees each time; eg. flip up/down).
@Jean - One thing I noticed is that the fence stops working when the piece exits the sprinig-loaded mechanism.
For short pieces, that's a bummer, but for longer pieces it might be useful enough to get a 3m piece out of a 4m rafter.
The thickness planer have some rolls that push the workpiece downwards; this means that if there is a cup or bow (especially bow), then the wood will "spring back" when it exits the machine. Still, it will make the workpiece more straight.
If there are serious cups/bows/twists, it's worth it to remove the high points with a handplane. You don't need to work for hours on this, just get the rough problems out of the way and use the planed side as the bottom on your planer.
Still I recommend using the MDF to improve the flatness of the thickness-planer's table. This will go a long way and sometimes you'll get perfectly flat sides.
If I had a handheld router and a thicknesser only, I'd make a 'vise like' jig for the router, so that I could route two rebates in a 2x4 rafter along the edges of one side. Then I'd temporarily glue two 'perfect' strips of wood to those sides. Now those two 'wooden rails' will be perfectly flat and I can use them to run on the MDF, to get the oposite side flat. After that, I'd take off the two strips, and flip the piece 180 degrees to plane the side where the strips were glued.
-If you have to run a lot of pieces through, it's better to create a rail on the MDF and not temporarily glue things to the workpiece.
Love it 👍.
After the intro statement, I chuckled and said a plane and a square.
Brilliant!
Again a very creative solution, thanks!
Все мои думки разом решил!! СПАСИБО!!
Did the piece twist after it left the jig while still engaged with the planer . Love the idea tho. Can't afford a jointer so this may work for me .
Don't see anyone here asking why. I simple tapering jig on the table saw would make a better edge jointer and would not have any possibility of snipe.
I was about to type the same thing! I like the channel and the guy is good, but this was a lot of effort for something that could've been solved easily
How do you intend on holding the piece "flat" to the surface at a 90 from the blade? Hold downs won't exactly hold it down flat especially, if there's a slight twist to the piece. You did notice he ran what looked like either a 3/4" or 1" small piece through. Table saws and fingers don't mix well.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing and I also think his test piece should've been a 3/4" 1x6 or something like that cuz a 4x4 doesnt need any assistance going through a planer. But a 3/4" 1x6??now that needs assistance lol but yes a taper jig on #tablesaw is much quicker and cheaper and takes up less space .
@Ham68 & @Joe - Here's a good example on how it could be done: th-cam.com/video/G8o4P-aM8UE/w-d-xo.html
@@tooljunkie555 4x4 still need a jointer because you might create a parallelogram instead of a square. But I get your point!
Great job man... never seen a jointer jig quite like this... very original... looks like it will get the job done to me...
Thanks man. I think with a bit more tweaking it could work nicely. It won't ever be able to straighten buckled boards but I don't see me getting that from a jig for the planer ever. I guess in that case the router will have to come through.
I just found your channel and love it. The jig is super and will come in handy. One thing I may suggest is that a small and even large space you should use dust mask. Some sort of dust collection is a must as it will cause harm down the line in the future. I realize you may use it when not filming.
Hi, just wondering how this jig is holding up ? Also wondering why you didnt use the table saw to square up the edge given you had one flat side.
I love ur work and I'm a huge fan because I have learnt a lot from ur channel. Just one thing, ur hand gesture at 8:00 to 8:02 😂😂
Very cool. How would you make it better?? Besides the spring part you mentioned? Do u have a new version/follow up video?
Great idea if I ever get one!!!
Terrific idea! I think I will use MDF with a melamine surface to make it slick. Like you, I have to be stingy with my shop floor space. Thanks for the great idea!
Very good idea. I will do the same. Melamine is much stronger than MDF and as you say slick.
The fence should go the full length of the bed, including over the blade and the outfeed table. With this set up the first part of the timber may be planed square to the fence but as soon as its no longer contacting the fence it will shift and will just plane it parallel to the bottom face. You should be able to apply pressure to the fence to get the required angle the whole time the timer is in contact with the blades this is why the top of a surface planer/jointer is always open with some sort of blade guard.
Hey Adam, I do mention in the video that it is my intention to mimic the infeed assembly on the outfeed side. I don't feel it necessary to have a fence under the blade because it would restrict the height adjustment of the planer and decrease the jigs usability.
adam8949 13:40
I find a good hand plane is just as effective, and much quieter. It is a bit slower though.
I think he was correct as even if you had a second one on the outfeed it could still twist before it reached the outfeed set. I think the idea was clever but not fully realized. If you look at videos others have made using a plainer to flatten a wide board with a sled it could be modified to make a squad side like you are doing here. The way I would do it is like a machinist does and use point loads on one side to push against a square fence. Basically just replace the roller side with clamps that have small pivoting faces (so they are not trying to establish square on their face). Of course to do this the entire sled will need to be lower than the height of the stock and the entire sled goes through as a unit instead of just the stock.
it wouldn't have to be very high just 1" or so to keep the fence connected so the work peice will flow throw instead of having a chance of binding if it doesn't line up exactly
Necessity is the mother of invention....👍🏻
Brilliant jig but could it be mounted diagonally on the sled (to make use of more spinning planar blades rather than thrust those in the center)?
I agree with adding another "brace" at the tail end of the jig. However, I disagree about using a lighter spring. If your piece is out by quite a difference, those springs will hold it from trying to twist back out of "square". Besides, over time, those springs will weaken some anyway. I'd like to see this made out of Oak or Hickory. Honestly, I've never understood why this couldn't be accomplished with using just a planer, thank you for confirming that it can be done.
فكرة رائعة وجميلة جدا وعملية ومفيدة
It seems as there should be support for the piece after the cut. Seems it would taper off if not supported, toward more of an opposing parallel than an adjacent one
Love this. Thanks for sharing.
"A prototype so I am just going to use the parts I have around the shop."
[breaks out tiny wheels on an axle, strong springs, a hinge, and mounting brackets]
That's a well-equipped shop
I’ve tried a planer jointer jig 2x. Each time theres to much down pressure in the rollers and no matter what, the piece is squished just enough to prevent a nice strait edge.
Love The foldaway work bench. Do you have a video of it’s construction
Oh fantastic idea really enjoyed the video and a must to try it
As you were showing the first pass through I was thinking" if it had one roller high just under or just passed the cutter head just to help keep the full length in line". Perhaps, same wide fence on out feed. Great Idea though! I would keep same springs but make fence steel angle iron on fence side to make vertical fence face easily changeable , due to marring over time.
Was my concern also.
Great idea and design.
cool jig, would definitely benefit from outfeed support. Definitely has potential
Great idea and the plan worked out spot on. Well Done.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks Barry.
Here’s a totally crazy idea: Mount the planer upside down so that the level of its blades align with the surface of your table. With some plates to reduce the gap you then have a planer! You’ll need to make a cut depth by having a lower in-feed side to the out-feed, but theoretically it would work. Probably time to invest in a properly designed jointer / planer combination or two separate machines. Add a power feed and voila - lovely planed and square output. Cheers.
That's not how a planer works though. A planer's in feed table and out feed table are not co-planar. Generally the in feed table is adjustable and sits ~1/16th below the out feed table. If his table is flat it won't actually joint a side, at least not accurately.
I ain’t gonna lie. I was mesmerized by your planer and miter saw transforming from under your bench. As far as using the planer to joint... Correct me if I’m wrong, but aren’t you running into the same problem running the uneven end on the table when you joint as you would running an uneven face on the table when you plane? The uneven end/face needs to be shimmed and fixed to a flat surface as that flat surface slides through, not the piece by itself. Additionally you either have a larger height limitation or it runs the risk of being unstable to joint a tall piece through the planer.
I realize this is an older video, but there's a really simple table saw jointer jig that's been around for years that works really well, and requires less effort.
There are many ways that are much simpler than this.
"I don't have room for a jointer" proceeds to flip a planer from beneath the work bench, james bond style
Very good idea and I think like you said it needs another fence system at the other side to keep the wood at the same angel all the time...well done ...cheers from Egypt
as I’m watching this video I’m constantly thinking of
‘District 9’ 😬🤣😂
Your guide side was on the left from the delivery end, you should check square from that not the side with the rollers
you could just clamp the material you want to square up to the fence of youre jig(s) and use the jig as a sled , feed the whole thing through the thicknes planer as one piece (so the jig will move through the planer too ) , it will register to the bottom of the jig , and the part you are planing registers to the fence once the top is flat you can move the beam throough it om its own
Hey man thanks for all the comments! Yeah I hear what you are saying and I agree but with that concept your stock is limited to the length of the jig. What I was trying to achieve here was a jig that could handle a wider variety of stock lengths but it's a work work in progress still.
this is sick!
great video, just what I am needing as I cant afford a jointer. Do you still use this jig? did you upgrade it? do you have any plans?
Love it, while i have a jointer the finish pales in comparison to my planer. This sure beats the heck out of a jointer sled for convenience as well.
Great concept but for anything two inches or below your router with a flush trim bit and straight edge would be better or a router table with a sixteenth of an inch proud fence on the back the the bit lined up with back fence for pieces wider like 4 inch to width of planer a simple flat surface with some hot glue and wedges work perfectly. Might make it easier for you
Looks like your jig does work, but I think the more accurate means would be the make a jig for your table saw to do the same thing and also take out the curves in your boards. Then you could buy a powered hand plane and make a jig like I have seen here on you tube and use the plane for double duty
Excellent concept. Great prototype.
Interesting. Any issues with snipe or the end of the board not being held square (after it leaves the jig)?
While I agree that you don't need a jointer, there is a better way to joint than the jig you built.
Instead of using the planer for edge jointing, get a track saw and use that to put a straight edge on your boards. It's easy to do, and easy to store when your done. For flattening boards, build a jig to remove warp using the planer.
Can you do a review of the ryobi ap13 planer
Clever
Terrific concept!
Very nice idea. If you think the springs in this attachment are to strong...hmm..what about changing the construction and use a feather board?
Just my two cents..
Excellent video yet again. Thanks for sharing. Could you please share what Bosch Professional drill you used on the job? It looks small and ideal.
a better idea might be a jig that holds the piece square and perpendicular to the feed bed but that the whole thing goes through the planer. i've seen people make sleds out of MDF/melamine that allows them to put a warped plank of wood on top with some wedges to keep it stiff and run the whole sled through the planer so that the sled bottom acts as the parallel reference surface.
I am aware of the design you are mentioning but what I was trying here was to make a one size fits all type jig that can handle any length of lumber. With the other method you guide pieces need to be the same length as the lumber. My concept is far from perfect I agree but I'm going to mess around with it a bit more with the hope of producing a better result.
I'm trying to wrap my brain around this. If the two faces of the wood pressing against the fence and the wheels are twisted down their lenght, will it not then copy that twist to the face that is being planed by the blades? And what happens to the last part of the wood when it releases from the jig and goes through the planer by itself? Just a friendly inquiry..
Hey, as I explained towards the end of the video, ideally and eventually I will mimic the assembly leading into the planer at the back also. This will pick up the wood when it is exiting the planer and keep it at that angle. Also, the jig is intended to square out corners. If the stock is twisted I am sure that you are correct in your assumption but unfortunately, I haven't tested the jig in that way.
I did not watch till the very end so I did not hear you talk about the extention, my bad. This is a fresh look at jointing with a planer and I am subscribed, so I look forward to seeing how this jig evolves. I am currently busy building the jig with the 6 leveling bars. You have probably seen that one.
Ek kan ook net bysê dat die content wat jy uitsit, van hoë kwaliteit is. Baie inoverend en jy overcomplicate nie dinge nie. My setup is amper identies as joune. Garage, werksbank met alles ingebou ensovoorts. So hierdie channel help my baie.
Thanks for the sub friend, en dankie vir die kompliment. Ek prober my goed eenvoudig hou. Less is more.
There is a reason the table saw is so versatile.
What is the name of your shop vac that you use that comes on when your tools start?
Very good idea. Thanks for the video.
No problem. Glad you enjoyed it.
Idk if this would work but what about using a router with a long bit and a clamped track on the workpiece to follow, that was going to be my temporary solution
Hey man - my new Sawdust Expert t-shirt arrived last week, and I love it! This jig is a neat idea! Do you think this provides better / more consistent results than a simple jig that slides through the planer with the work piece? I've seen lots of other channels build jointing sleds that run through the planer with the work piece, and I'm curious which is the better approach. Keep up the great work!
Hey man. That's awesome! Thanks for the support. I did consider building a jig like that but there were two reasons I decided against it. Firstly, you are adding additional weight that the planer needs to pull through and in the case of narrow planks I feared that there wouldn't be enough force on the stock to pull the entire jig. Also, you are more limited in what length of wood you can put through it. With this jig, the length of the jig does not determine the max length of lumber you can put through the planer.
That's a great point about not limiting the thickness. I picked up a new planer earlier this year, but have not even opened the box yet as I've been finishing up a really large shed build project... But that project should wrap up this week, and I have several projects planned for that new planer - including a jointer jig. Thanks for the tips!
No problem. I checked out your channel and subbed. I'm planning a deck/look-out type project on a farm for my next big build and your "how to build your own rafters" video that I just watched actually helped with a small dilemma I was facing.
Hey, that's fantastic! I'm thrilled to hear that you found something useful in there. :-) Feel free to pester me if you get stuck with anything else, and I'll do my best to help.
Will do. Thanks.
I'm confused how does this work as a jointer? There is nothing leveling the piece to register as flat you could do the same with just running the board in the planer alone, this looks like you still need to have at least one square face to Register on the left side of the fence right?
A great idea. You are a genius.
I think your shop set up is really neat and creative. Did you design and build this be yourself?
Brilliant idea!
How well has this held up?
When you finalize the design, I would be happy to purchase plans from you!
If you have a table saw, look up a table saw jointer jig. They work better for less effort than this.
Very cool.
That works good for large thick peices of wood, How about for a standard one inch thick peace of wood?
It does but obviously the plank width is limited by the planer height.
Dis Nogal n goeie idee ek sal n out feed guide ook insit as ek jy is
I don’t understand? You could’ve built a taper jig in 10min and used the table saw. You could use a sacrificial fence in a table saw and get an even better result then even a taper jig with the only issue being multiple passes on bad lumber as you can only take 1/8” at a time and that cut remains constant no matter if you have 1/16” twist or 3/16” twist.
I used to use a taper jig but you can’t face joint 2x till you cut it dose way to narrow do to growth of cut. Most saws are 3-1/4” depth so even with a sacrificial fence joint you’ll have to joint then Parallel cut the other ended before you can get a full cut through the face. Hands down the partial cut sacrificial fence has given me way better results and is much faster then clamping and unclamping a taper jig every board.
If I were to joint with a planer I’d use a sled and shims. This is what I do for 6” and larger boards at least till I can purchase a tracksaw. I would get a jointer but as most in my price range are limited to 6” anyways I may as well go the track saw route which makes more sense.
End of the day I fail to see how this actually joints? The only thing I can assume is the jig keeps the rollers from twisting back and forth so I can see it as possible however once your out of the jig that last 12 plus inches is not going to be jointer and will have to be cut off before paralleling the other side.. I gues one could flip the board and put the end in and run a second time but chances are you’ll now have 24” of wasted board ends..
Pretty sure that board is wide enough to run through the Planner on its own without the jig and you would still get the same result should have used a 3/4 inch 1 x 6 then your jig would have been useful cuz you can't put a 3/4 inch 1 by 6 on the edge through a planer not without worrying! Lol anyways,, great idea though, wish you would have used a 3/4 inch 1 by 4 for the test piece instead just my opinion tho.
Is it cold there? I would be dieing wearing that right now...my table is coming along..keep running into snags..yours was easy compared to what Im working with.saw is bigger,planer is bigger,chop saw is bigger..trying to work out a scissor lift settup for the planer and miter saw.I'll get there...keep up the good work man.
Thanks man and good luck with your table. It is a bit chilly here yeah.
So how did that scissor lift idea work out? I was thinking yesterday some type of hydraulic lift or scissor lift would be an awesome way to raise and lower tools into the workbench. Kind of like those TV's that drop down into a footboard.
Why not use a jointer jig on your table saw? Way simpler.
Nicely adapted. Ive not seen a jig like this before. Another good idea would be to make an L shaped sled to clamp a piece of wood to and feed through the thicknesser. Similar to the table saw jig for jointing. That would eliminate the need for the second fence on the outfeed side.
👍
That is correct and I did consider it. I decided against it though because the length of such a jig would limit the length of stock you can plane.
Great concept simple and affective, you wouldn't have a design for your pivoting table setup by any chance to share.
How to jointer as thicknesser dude
I don’t see how this would work with twisted boards. As it goes through the roller, different angles will result through the planer blades. In short you’ll still have a wonky board. The only way this will work properly is if the board is held securely so the angle of the board doesn’t vary as it passes through the planer. The more commonly seen jointer jigs for planers with wedges to keep the board in place do this so will result in a flatter surface.
i would buy a jointer
that was ingenious!
What a great idea :)