Great Video! So, my desire is to use a keep alive to slowly bring a loco to a stop once it get's to an isolated track section. If I'm running a main line, I want the loco to go into the yard and come to a slow stop on it's own! This is not only a safe way to run the DC layout via not worrying about watching the loco going into the yard, but will bring realism via a nice slow auto stop. All this allows you to get a bit of a DCC experience on a DC layout. And IMHO, a better experience. I can run very long main lines that dead end to insulated track sections. As I'm working another loco, the other is just running to it's destination worry free. I'm thinking of designing my next layout on this concept. It seems like a no brainer. Now, time to experience with Capacitors vs. time to stall.
Just discovered your channel. Excellent video. Super informative. I will use those information for my coach,s then I will move on the loco after some experience.
It's a question with a multi-faceted answer. You should use a temperature that suits the solder you are using, the iron, in terms of both its power and the shape and size of its tip, the parts and board you are soldering to, and when working in SMD, the flux you are using. It should be hot enough to melt solder instantly on the iron, and to get the joint made in a second or two, but not so hot that it shocks the part or the board. Many MERG pcbs have unnecessarily fine tracks that can be induced to shrivel up with a slight overheat. If you want starting numbers I currently use an 80W Weller MSP iron and/or a 60W chinese TS100 running off an RC battery. I set these to about 320 -340C. I use Amtech BGA rework flux for best, certainly for rework, or flux out of flux pen for day to day. Additional solder is usually 28ga multicore from RS/Farnell/Rapid or 5micron solder paste. A good way to 'get your eye in' is to solder SMD ( 1206 or 0804 ) resistors/caps between adjacent tracks of a piece of veroboard. My technique is to tin both tracks, then remove the solder with a solder sucker or braid, this leaves the areas on both sides tinned, but flat. I can then place the part. I often use tweezers or the finger of God to hold it in place while I reheat/reflow it into place with the iron. I then backfill solder into the connection on either side. I use a webcam feeding a 28 inch monitor as a soldering microscope, though the adonstar 'dashcam' type microscopes are good too.
i don't have any of these problems, i run my locos on internal batteries and hm7000 sound decoders which i buy for £60 (the batteries are free). It doesn't matter what points i use or whether i have a reversing loop thingamyjig. Also i have no need for a track cleaner as my track does not supply power to my loco via the wheels and then through a contact made of a conducting material that must be kept clean. My locos work everytime and never stutter or stop, oh and i nearly forgot i don't need a stay alive, my locos are alive.🙂
The reason stay alives are successful in DCC is that the power is a constant voltage supplied all the time. The storage capacitor in the stay alive is therefore always charged, even if the loco is standing still. With a DC system the track is only powered when the loco is moving, and then only at a fraction of the ~12V supply. The storage capacitor therefore cannot build sufficient charge to be of much use.
This is by far the best stay alive TH-cam I have seen. Very clear presentation covering all aspects, very well done Wosag.
Great Video! So, my desire is to use a keep alive to slowly bring a loco to a stop once it get's to an isolated track section. If I'm running a main line, I want the loco to go into the yard and come to a slow stop on it's own! This is not only a safe way to run the DC layout via not worrying about watching the loco going into the yard, but will bring realism via a nice slow auto stop. All this allows you to get a bit of a DCC experience on a DC layout. And IMHO, a better experience. I can run very long main lines that dead end to insulated track sections. As I'm working another loco, the other is just running to it's destination worry free. I'm thinking of designing my next layout on this concept. It seems like a no brainer. Now, time to experience with Capacitors vs. time to stall.
Excellent. I have learnt a lot thank you.
Excellent presentation, thank you for your time 🥳👍
I have always found the blue wire that is the common for lighting is usable for the + wire on the keep alive
Nice thanks learnt heaps. Hi from NZ
Just discovered your channel. Excellent video. Super informative. I will use those information for my coach,s then I will move on the loco after some experience.
what temp should the soldering iron be for SMD soldering please?
It's a question with a multi-faceted answer. You should use a temperature that suits the solder you are using, the iron, in terms of both its power and the shape and size of its tip, the parts and board you are soldering to, and when working in SMD, the flux you are using.
It should be hot enough to melt solder instantly on the iron, and to get the joint made in a second or two, but not so hot that it shocks the part or the board. Many MERG pcbs have unnecessarily fine tracks that can be induced to shrivel up with a slight overheat.
If you want starting numbers I currently use an 80W Weller MSP iron and/or a 60W chinese TS100 running off an RC battery. I set these to about 320 -340C. I use Amtech BGA rework flux for best, certainly for rework, or flux out of flux pen for day to day. Additional solder is usually 28ga multicore from RS/Farnell/Rapid or 5micron solder paste.
A good way to 'get your eye in' is to solder SMD ( 1206 or 0804 ) resistors/caps between adjacent tracks of a piece of veroboard.
My technique is to tin both tracks, then remove the solder with a solder sucker or braid, this leaves the areas on both sides tinned, but flat.
I can then place the part. I often use tweezers or the finger of God to hold it in place while I reheat/reflow it into place with the iron. I then backfill solder into the connection on either side.
I use a webcam feeding a 28 inch monitor as a soldering microscope, though the adonstar 'dashcam' type microscopes are good too.
Thanks for providing such a full response, much appreciated.
i don't have any of these problems, i run my locos on internal batteries and hm7000 sound decoders which i buy for £60 (the batteries are free). It doesn't matter what points i use or whether i have a reversing loop thingamyjig. Also i have no need for a track cleaner as my track does not supply power to my loco via the wheels and then through a contact made of a conducting material that must be kept clean. My locos work everytime and never stutter or stop, oh and i nearly forgot i don't need a stay alive, my locos are alive.🙂
That’s all very well if you have loads of room in your locomotives. What scale are you running?
@@davidrichie9570 4mm
@@davidrichie9570 4mm
Where are PMP 19 circuits available? What is the complete reference to the Journal?
Check out merg.org.uk/content/kits
Can I use it for motor in DC loco ??
The reason stay alives are successful in DCC is that the power is a constant voltage supplied all the time. The storage capacitor in the stay alive is therefore always charged, even if the loco is standing still. With a DC system the track is only powered when the loco is moving, and then only at a fraction of the ~12V supply. The storage capacitor therefore cannot build sufficient charge to be of much use.