why would you replace those perfectly good parts ??? just use a 000 sand paper and lightly sand those arc marks off the rotor strike edge ..do the same for the wire ends inside the cap .....check the cap center lead ... use a tiny tad bit of copper grease paste on the rotor center where the cap lead center seats and turns..also on the rotor`s strike edge and inside the wire ends inside the cap where you found the corrosion .... and put it back .... it`ll work just fine and smooth.... please don`t throw away perfectly good parts and worse please don`t suggest doing that to other people
bijan, please make a video showing how to lightly sand those arc marks off the rotor strike edge and the wire ends inside the cap. Also, please elaborate on how much copper grease paste to put on and exactly where to apply it. It is much easier to show new Nissan D21 truck owners that they need to replace a $15 Cap and Rotor than trying to show someone how to repair and maintain the old one.
Hey Sam! There are 2 circles with numbers. If you look at 1:21, you will see one circle that is a stamp showing when the cap was manufactured. The arrow points to a 9, and 1-0 is stamped around the arrow. So, my guess is the cap was molded in September of 2010 and it sat on a shelf until I bought it from the local Nissan dealership. There is another circle between the contact points, below the serial number "612 2 239". These circles are found all around the part. They are most likely left from the molding process so that the part can be removed from the mold.
jp2code : thanks for reply, my car is manual 1.3 when start can’t on or suddenly engine off in traffic light and hard to on again, I open that cup it was oily with some oil in that I pull out the router clean that now don’t know why was the position the head of router
@@SamSam-us2fh There should be marks on the top of the distributor that indicate what cylinder each wire goes to, and the distributor cap should only be able to go on One Way to prevent confusion.
@@jp2code hmmm not sure if i can. But i can see. But also i did inspect distributor cap and rotor. And they look burnt just like yours.. Could this be the problem why the wires are arcing ..?
@@myyoutubechannel3161 it would certainly help to replace them. If possible, try to get those parts from the local dealership. It is too hard to tell when local auto parts stores are selling quality stuff. Even the employees don't know
Good advice literally just got my 85 D 50 Dodge/Mitsubishi to start up that way. Gonna replace the cap and rotor, but it's definitely a fix for the moment
I think that there's really nothing wrong with your distributor cap, and from the age and mileage, yeah, soooo... i bet the guys at the parts store love your business.
There was over 20,000 miles on that Cap/Rotor. Replacing it made the engine run a little smoother. The point of the video was that a distributor cap can look fine on the outside, but you have to take it off to see how the contacts are doing on the inside. The oil company loves me, too, because I change my oil before it is really needed. The point of Preventive Maintenance is to do repairs BEFORE they are needed.
You're kidding right? It's a major component of the ignition system... heat, vibration, age, etc. all wear down the plastic. A slight crack is enough to *barely* not make the cap and point have contact and cause misfires or not starting the car at all. If you're a car guy, you know this will happen at the most inopportune time leaving you completely stranded. I'll be a big spender and pay the $15 for a new one.
Thanks. Now I know to change my cap and rotor sooner than 80k. Made a big difference.
thanks for this video
This was not so bad. My wad terrible. It was nearly rouching the rotor ! Xd
thanks
why would you replace those perfectly good parts ??? just use a 000 sand paper and lightly sand those arc marks off the rotor strike edge ..do the same for the wire ends inside the cap .....check the cap center lead ... use a tiny tad bit of copper grease paste on the rotor center where the cap lead center seats and turns..also on the rotor`s strike edge and inside the wire ends inside the cap where you found the corrosion .... and put it back .... it`ll work just fine and smooth.... please don`t throw away perfectly good parts and worse please don`t suggest doing that to other people
bijan khairy bruh it's literally 15 bucks
Sanding it is not worthing shit
bijan, please make a video showing how to lightly sand those arc marks off the rotor strike edge and the wire ends inside the cap. Also, please elaborate on how much copper grease paste to put on and exactly where to apply it. It is much easier to show new Nissan D21 truck owners that they need to replace a $15 Cap and Rotor than trying to show someone how to repair and maintain the old one.
Hey buddy nice video 👍🏻. What’s that mark under your finger that circle ⭕️ with numbers ?
Hey Sam! There are 2 circles with numbers. If you look at 1:21, you will see one circle that is a stamp showing when the cap was manufactured. The arrow points to a 9, and 1-0 is stamped around the arrow. So, my guess is the cap was molded in September of 2010 and it sat on a shelf until I bought it from the local Nissan dealership. There is another circle between the contact points, below the serial number "612 2 239". These circles are found all around the part. They are most likely left from the molding process so that the part can be removed from the mold.
jp2code : thanks for reply, my car is manual 1.3 when start can’t on or suddenly engine off in traffic light and hard to on again, I open that cup it was oily with some oil in that I pull out the router clean that now don’t know why was the position the head of router
jp2code : under the router is not round it’s like nut 🛑
@@SamSam-us2fh There should be marks on the top of the distributor that indicate what cylinder each wire goes to, and the distributor cap should only be able to go on One Way to prevent confusion.
Did you say arcing ? That's what my spark plug wires are doing.
If the plug wires are arcing, you need new spark plug wires!!!
@@jp2code thanks for replying but i bought new ones amd still the arcing continued. .?
@@myyoutubechannel3161 can you return them for a better set? If they are arcing through the insulated wires, they are not very good quality.
@@jp2code hmmm not sure if i can. But i can see. But also i did inspect distributor cap and rotor. And they look burnt just like yours.. Could this be the problem why the wires are arcing ..?
@@myyoutubechannel3161 it would certainly help to replace them. If possible, try to get those parts from the local dealership. It is too hard to tell when local auto parts stores are selling quality stuff. Even the employees don't know
Your cap looks fine sand paper fix
Good advice literally just got my 85 D 50 Dodge/Mitsubishi to start up that way. Gonna replace the cap and rotor, but it's definitely a fix for the moment
I think that there's really nothing wrong with your distributor cap, and from the age and mileage, yeah, soooo... i bet the guys at the parts store love your business.
There was over 20,000 miles on that Cap/Rotor. Replacing it made the engine run a little smoother. The point of the video was that a distributor cap can look fine on the outside, but you have to take it off to see how the contacts are doing on the inside. The oil company loves me, too, because I change my oil before it is really needed. The point of Preventive Maintenance is to do repairs BEFORE they are needed.
You're kidding right? It's a major component of the ignition system... heat, vibration, age, etc. all wear down the plastic. A slight crack is enough to *barely* not make the cap and point have contact and cause misfires or not starting the car at all. If you're a car guy, you know this will happen at the most inopportune time leaving you completely stranded. I'll be a big spender and pay the $15 for a new one.
should carbon brush be replaced?
What is the carbon brush? Is it shown anywhere in my video?
@@jp2code maybe in older cap not yours there is a carbon brush in the middle of the cap that can be removed