Thank you! I just took down a 75 foot pine that was leaning on an oak across my driveway. Followed your instructions which were perfect until the last 30 feet of the tree was vertical. Then I just moved the base until it fell. Used the pieces for a makeshift bench along the drive. Good stuff.
Good description and clear demonstration on various sizes of trees. Thank you for not taking 10 minutes to describe the problem like many tubers do. Just a note that by the time you have chopped off a few sections the top end with branches is likely to lower itself enough that it comes free from the hang up. And you have reduced much of the weight which greatly reduces further risk. Like that you used a large enough tree example to illustrate the usefulness of a top notch.
Finally see a video how to bring down a dead tree leaning on power line. City won't do it...on son in law's wooded area. Waited until winter....wet area. 2 trees leaning...1 small & 1 medium size. Hope all goes well. 😘
Does the same cutting technique apply to uprooted trees that are still attached to a very heavy root ball ? We had a tornado on September 7th and it brought down most of my mature trees, lots of heavy leaners too. Thank you for the video this really helped me a lot.
my question exactly. Facing a huge oak, some 30+ inches across, monster root ball. Making the upper cut makes sense, but what about the force of the root ball wanting to sit back down ?
No specific technique exists that fits every situation .. Windblown trees come in all forms and sizes. Some are easy to deal with, others can be extremely challenging. Anybody dealing with it themselves should know how to determine where the tree has compression and tension. And then you make a plan to deal with the tree safely. If not, then at least take a lot of pictures and show them to somebody who has more experience.
@@OvesDIYvideos : i have a big fir hung up in another big fir and ive been pondering how to deal with this obviously dangerous cutting job . im hoping to get the leaner to slide off its stump and come down out of the other tree but i dont know if this would happen or not . i have a powerful come-along and a good hydraulic jack plus plenty of wedges and powerful levers . taking photos is a very good idea . im not in a hurry to get killed , lol .
As you say, the weight of the root ball might try to lift a portion back upwards. Try to look at where your tension is. Carry some wedges. Cut slow and look for the direction it moves. Always know where you're going to run to. If need be drop the saw and run. Can always buy a new saw. Not the same for a new you
Ok, with every cut, the remaining tree becomes steeper. So, what does one do if they've followed this example, but now the remaining 50 feet of the tree exceeds 60 degree limit cited? The video conveniently cut off at that point.
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
If your high and under when it drops your bar will be there and you will get pulled down if your low and under your bar is to the side of the part that drops and it wont get pulled
What do you do when it's greater than 60°? I have a tree that's leaning across a road. Once I start taking pieces off like this I'll need to finish the job. Suggestions?
When is the best time to hinge cut large maples? It is January and cold here in Michigan I want to start hinging my bigger trees which are maple but we are having problems getting a good hinge, most are breaking off. Should we wait until spring with the maple trees? Thanks, Frustrated Michigan Hunter
+Jason Cook Large maples are difficult to keep intact. I strongly recommend using conventional cutting methods with a face cut and back cut to completely fell the tree. Unless you are a professional I would not hinge cut maples greater than about 10-12 inches in diameter, and even they are dangerous. Instead, fell those trees and then drop smaller ones on top of them.
Jason Cook that is a example leaning log rite ok kick that over ok there are several logs in that shot on a 45 or so would have a large compression, so I dunno bud geuss you got the last word on technical shit out in God's green one , or you are full of shit
I have a hung tree at the cottage, about 60-80 feet tall leaning at a solid 45° angle. The trunk is over a foot in diameter, say, 16 inches. It won't hit any structures if it falls but will damage the few other trees that are holding it up. Any suggestions or other videos would be great.
Sometimes you can't because they get too upright. But once the tree is shortened and move like that you have created the opening you need to fell the next tree.
I never waste time on the upper cut. Just come up from the bottom in one cut. You don't need to direct the tree because gravity only goes one way.....down.
What is "blocking"? Clearly not football here. :') There is a well-known term "bucking". Might I suggest that with the small examples shown here (and far larger) you either make opposite cuts into compression, then tension sides, OR cut in far enough into the compression side to set a couple wedges and then just cut through. For hard-cases, a cable winch works great pulling laterally with face- and back-cuts made carefully sideways before. Mainly KISS, need deer culling here.
Oh God. How can this b in the public? With that undercut, that blade is gonna jump up and slice your head in two someday. Oh God don’t pattern after this horrible advice. Oh God.
Elaborate? A 12,000 RPM exposed blade slicing through skin, nose, eyes, blood vessels, and skull after kickback. I would add "brain", but those making this kind of cut don't have any.
I like that you clearly demonstrated the technique several times. Re: the small tree technique, it looks like you are making the first from the top at 90 degree angle to the log, whereas it appears that the second cut, from underneath, is simply vertical. Would this be right. Then re the larger tree part of the demo, looks like the cut from below is at 90 degrees to the log. Hope this is correct! And thanks for doing this!
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
+brian dandrea Not sure I follow you. In every case the first cut was on the top (compression) side and the second cut was on the bottom (tension) side, with a slight offset to retain holding wood.
I believe all the first was over and the second was under cut. It creates a hinge, there's been times I would only do a under cut. But this video seems to create a hinge by doing both cuts or blocking.
After the safety videos, this should be the first "how-to" instructional video anyone hinge cutting should watch because this is the very first problem you will have to solve when you begin improving your deer habitat. The first tree you release will almost invariably get hung up until the canopy begins to open up.
I would of made a 35-45⁰ cut and watch the gap closely before it pinches and stick a wedge in so bar won't get stuck. Then continue cut downward. As the weight of main tree falls away to ground the only major weight that may be on bar is small portion of hung up tree. I don't necessarily like your technique. It seems like your trying to get away too quickly and pulling back up. It just looks like it's prone for major kickback. The wedge is a great tool and underutilized by most I've seen using a chainsaw.
I suggest a new title: "Bringing a hung tree (*almost*) down by blocking -- and then leave the newbie on TH-cam confused about how to deal with most dangerous vertical part at the end".
J DeWitt -- In this video th-cam.com/video/7Rxore5Qm2I/w-d-xo.html you can see Swedish lumberjacks learning the "kana på slana" (slide on the pole) technique for falling a hung-up tree. Make a notch in the base of the hung-up tree. Shove a pole (for example, a sapling that has been stripped of branches) into the notch and lay the pole on the ground -- to serve as a rail. Then use a strong branch as a crowbar to force the hung-up tree away from the tree on which it's hung up. The hung-up tree will slide along the pole / rail, and after a few tries, it will fall to the ground.
@Pete Mason That would obviously work if you`re next to a road or fire trail. Why not call the City and have them pick it up? bwahaha Out in the woods it`s a little different. Have somebody take you into the woods sometime.
Dig a hole under it, pull it up straight, backfill the hole and water generously for about a week or so. Come back in a few years and repeat. Use cuttings for firewood.
However you do it it's going to be a whole lot easier than with what you started with, either attached to the stump or stuck hard into the ground. I generally notch the backside of the last piece, put a rope around it and pull it out with my pickup truck. Or if I can't use the truck then a come along to another tree. And at the last piece is still stuck into the ground I will loop a rope over one of the branches in an adjoining tree if there is one.
And what to do with the rest of the tree which is still standing? I cut a broken maple which was standing on its crown and the base of the trunk was holding on the broken half of it. I ended up with the upside down tree which is kind of funny but now I puzzled how to drop it down safely.
Interesting. I have seen leaners where the technique used is the opposite: with the notch on bottom and the cut from the top. Here you do the notch on top and cut top, and then the bottom. The opposite. is this because of the compression due to the top of tree touching or is this just another method for cutting a leaner? I do know there are often different methods used.
I had a large oak fall between a forked oak and prop agaunst another tree basically did this, now I have a 6 or 8 ft log lodged in the fork. I has to also make sure when I dropped tree it didn't hit a water faucet. The problem would be solved if I could cut the fork but it would put me in the danger zone. If I can't get a tractor I'm thinking maybe a jack and a 4x4 post to teeter the log out of fork then cut the bad fork. The log probably weighs over a 1000 lbs and it's in the fork about 6 ft high from the ground. I can't snatch the fork down with my vehicle even though the base is split.
That's a widow maker leaning. You can be ok for now, don't know for how long....I don't believe you've ever seen a pro doing that cut before, did you. Very dangerous people out there teaching potentially more dangerous people.
Finally someone who knows what they are doing and can explain it. Thank you.
Thank you! I just took down a 75 foot pine that was leaning on an oak across my driveway. Followed your instructions which were perfect until the last 30 feet of the tree was vertical. Then I just moved the base until it fell. Used the pieces for a makeshift bench along the drive. Good stuff.
Good description and clear demonstration on various sizes of trees. Thank you for not taking 10 minutes to describe the problem like many tubers do. Just a note that by the time you have chopped off a few sections the top end with branches is likely to lower itself enough that it comes free from the hang up. And you have reduced much of the weight which greatly reduces further risk. Like that you used a large enough tree example to illustrate the usefulness of a top notch.
Watched several videos without explanations and unsafe methods. Thanks for the good and to the point video!
Boom! Nice, simple, to the point. Thanks!
Finally see a video how to bring down a dead tree leaning on power line. City won't do it...on son in law's wooded area. Waited until winter....wet area. 2 trees leaning...1 small & 1 medium size. Hope all goes well. 😘
Well done. Straight to the point too. I have a big dead ash tree laying against the fork of another tree. Should be able to use this method safely
Always clear the ground around you before any cutting. Have a getaway path with no trip obstacles.
ugh.....Title had me thinking this was how to calm my morning woody down. oh well
Does the same cutting technique apply to uprooted trees that are still attached to a very heavy root ball ?
We had a tornado on September 7th and it brought down most of my mature trees, lots of heavy leaners too.
Thank you for the video this really helped me a lot.
my question exactly. Facing a huge oak, some 30+ inches across, monster root ball. Making the upper cut makes sense, but what about the force of the root ball wanting to sit back down ?
No specific technique exists that fits every situation .. Windblown trees come in all forms and sizes. Some are easy to deal with, others can be extremely challenging. Anybody dealing with it themselves should know how to determine where the tree has compression and tension. And then you make a plan to deal with the tree safely. If not, then at least take a lot of pictures and show them to somebody who has more experience.
@@OvesDIYvideos : i have a big fir hung up in another big fir and ive been pondering how to deal with this obviously dangerous cutting job . im hoping to get the leaner to slide off its stump and come down out of the other tree but i dont know if this would happen or not . i have a powerful come-along and a good hydraulic jack plus plenty of wedges and powerful levers . taking photos is a very good idea . im not in a hurry to get killed , lol .
As you say, the weight of the root ball might try to lift a portion back upwards. Try to look at where your tension is. Carry some wedges. Cut slow and look for the direction it moves.
Always know where you're going to run to. If need be drop the saw and run. Can always buy a new saw. Not the same for a new you
Good video, Dude 😎
With zero experience, I have to take down a partially fallen tree. This explanation helps.
Ok, with every cut, the remaining tree becomes steeper. So, what does one do if they've followed this example, but now the remaining 50 feet of the tree exceeds 60 degree limit cited? The video conveniently cut off at that point.
By then you have achieved the goal of making room for other trees to be felled. The goal is to get it out of the way, not to get it to the ground.
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
If your high and under when it drops your bar will be there and you will get pulled down if your low and under your bar is to the side of the part that drops and it wont get pulled
This is the way
What do you do when it's greater than 60°? I have a tree that's leaning across a road. Once I start taking pieces off like this I'll need to finish the job. Suggestions?
Just use a truck to pull that tree 😅 it's already fell right? Just tug on it with a truck and you'll be able to drag it
very good thanks!
When is the best time to hinge cut large maples? It is January and cold here in Michigan I want to start hinging my bigger trees which are maple but we are having problems getting a good hinge, most are breaking off. Should we wait until spring with the maple trees? Thanks, Frustrated Michigan Hunter
+Jason Cook Large maples are difficult to keep intact. I strongly recommend using conventional cutting methods with a face cut and back cut to completely fell the tree. Unless you are a professional I would not hinge cut maples greater than about 10-12 inches in diameter, and even they are dangerous. Instead, fell those trees and then drop smaller ones on top of them.
Jason Cook that is a example leaning log rite ok kick that over ok there are several logs in that shot on a 45 or so would have a large compression, so I dunno bud geuss you got the last word on technical shit out in God's green one , or you are full of shit
I have a hung tree at the cottage, about 60-80 feet tall leaning at a solid 45° angle. The trunk is over a foot in diameter, say, 16 inches. It won't hit any structures if it falls but will damage the few other trees that are holding it up. Any suggestions or other videos would be great.
For this amateur, ignore the damage to the other trees.
Great video I will try that next time
Good job I do it same way
So how do you do the last part of the tree?
Sometimes you can't because they get too upright. But once the tree is shortened and move like that you have created the opening you need to fell the next tree.
I know I am late to the party but... I winch them if the others aren't coming down.
I never waste time on the upper cut. Just come up from the bottom in one cut. You don't need to direct the tree because gravity only goes one way.....down.
hyzercreek can get pinched
Daryle Jones
Never happens, if it does just kick the log away from you
hyzercreek think you follow of it man
What?
full fak not fallo
I should have watched this one years ago , so it sounds like the trick is don't cut all the way through
What is "blocking"? Clearly not football here. :') There is a well-known term "bucking". Might I suggest that with the small examples shown here (and far larger) you either make opposite cuts into compression, then tension sides, OR cut in far enough into the compression side to set a couple wedges and then just cut through. For hard-cases, a cable winch works great pulling laterally with face- and back-cuts made carefully sideways before. Mainly KISS, need deer culling here.
I think the 3 foot sections of tree can be called blocks. Not sure. I like to cut 26 inch sections because my fireplace is 13 inches wide.
www.google.com/search?q=blocking+down+a+tree&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS707US710&oq=blocking+a+tree&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.7513j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Not even close 😢
Pop cut.
Good example. Proper
dude , sharpen your saw ... please.
Oh God. How can this b in the public? With that undercut, that blade is gonna jump up and slice your head in two someday. Oh God don’t pattern after this horrible advice. Oh God.
Care to elaborate
Elaborate? A 12,000 RPM exposed blade slicing through skin, nose, eyes, blood vessels, and skull after kickback. I would add "brain", but those making this kind of cut don't have any.
Is that what happened to you?
Hard hat and gloves, both hands on saw.
@@wesleyoke8448 bwahaha Groucho there doesn`t have a clue but calls to his supposed maker.
I like that you clearly demonstrated the technique several times. Re: the small tree technique, it looks like you are making the first from the top at 90 degree angle to the log, whereas it appears that the second cut, from underneath, is simply vertical. Would this be right. Then re the larger tree part of the demo, looks like the cut from below is at 90 degrees to the log. Hope this is correct! And thanks for doing this!
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
Thanks! Got one hung up today and just needed a reminder. This was great!!
The ones complaining aren’t woodmen
Top handled saws are for climbing only!! Not for ground use!!!
slightly confused. the first cut is high and above, while the second cut is low and under, in the first tree fell. in all others the approach is opposite. as in the first cut is low and above and the second is high an under.
+brian dandrea Not sure I follow you. In every case the first cut was on the top (compression) side and the second cut was on the bottom (tension) side, with a slight offset to retain holding wood.
I believe all the first was over and the second was under cut. It creates a hinge, there's been times I would only do a under cut. But this video seems to create a hinge by doing both cuts or blocking.
After the safety videos, this should be the first "how-to" instructional video anyone hinge cutting should watch because this is the very first problem you will have to solve when you begin improving your deer habitat. The first tree you release will almost invariably get hung up until the canopy begins to open up.
I would of made a 35-45⁰ cut and watch the gap closely before it pinches and stick a wedge in so bar won't get stuck. Then continue cut downward. As the weight of main tree falls away to ground the only major weight that may be on bar is small portion of hung up tree.
I don't necessarily like your technique. It seems like your trying to get away too quickly and pulling back up. It just looks like it's prone for major kickback.
The wedge is a great tool and underutilized by most I've seen using a chainsaw.
I suggest a new title: "Bringing a hung tree (*almost*) down by blocking -- and then leave the newbie on TH-cam confused about how to deal with most dangerous vertical part at the end".
i came here for this answer only to be disappointed.
@Extreme Deer Habitat
@ExtremeDeerHabitat
So how do you get that last (nearly upright) piece? (at the end of the video)?
J DeWitt -- In this video
th-cam.com/video/7Rxore5Qm2I/w-d-xo.html
you can see Swedish lumberjacks learning the "kana på slana" (slide on the pole) technique for falling a hung-up tree. Make a notch in the base of the hung-up tree. Shove a pole (for example, a sapling that has been stripped of branches) into the notch and lay the pole on the ground -- to serve as a rail. Then use a strong branch as a crowbar to force the hung-up tree away from the tree on which it's hung up. The hung-up tree will slide along the pole / rail, and after a few tries, it will fall to the ground.
You post it down with a few steep angled cuts it will eventually fold on its self or be cut short enough it wont be a hazard
@Pete Mason That would obviously work if you`re next to a road or fire trail. Why not call the City and have them pick it up? bwahaha Out in the woods it`s a little different. Have somebody take you into the woods sometime.
Dig a hole under it, pull it up straight, backfill the hole and water generously for about a week or so. Come back in a few years and repeat. Use cuttings for firewood.
However you do it it's going to be a whole lot easier than with what you started with, either attached to the stump or stuck hard into the ground. I generally notch the backside of the last piece, put a rope around it and pull it out with my pickup truck. Or if I can't use the truck then a come along to another tree. And at the last piece is still stuck into the ground I will loop a rope over one of the branches in an adjoining tree if there is one.
Should have used a pole saw from 15 safe feet away. Ive cut widow makers twice the size of what u cut with a small pole saw
clear , concise and to the point . thank you sir , i wish i could give you a hundred likes .
I will try your technique, I have a fairly large poplar hung up leaner that was uprooted this Summer. Thanks, Dave.
If you did it the same way, I hope you've survived
Once the tree is past 60 degrees, what do you recommend?
I like the notch method, thanks for the video.
I have two hung up trees outside my house
Jordan Peterson 12 rules of cutting down a tree
And what to do with the rest of the tree which is still standing? I cut a broken maple which was standing on its crown and the base of the trunk was holding on the broken half of it. I ended up with the upside down tree which is kind of funny but now I puzzled how to drop it down safely.
Thank you
Interesting. I have seen leaners where the technique used is the opposite: with the notch on bottom and the cut from the top. Here you do the notch on top and cut top, and then the bottom. The opposite. is this because of the compression due to the top of tree touching or is this just another method for cutting a leaner? I do know there are often different methods used.
now what?
Nice clear demonstration.
Does this approach scale well to larger trees? no real difference?
I had a large oak fall between a forked oak and prop agaunst another tree basically did this, now I have a 6 or 8 ft log lodged in the fork. I has to also make sure when I dropped tree it didn't hit a water faucet. The problem would be solved if I could cut the fork but it would put me in the danger zone. If I can't get a tractor I'm thinking maybe a jack and a 4x4 post to teeter the log out of fork then cut the bad fork. The log probably weighs over a 1000 lbs and it's in the fork about 6 ft high from the ground. I can't snatch the fork down with my vehicle even though the base is split.
Thanks. Great video and straight to the point
Great video!! Thank you!
THANK YOU MAN
thank you
good video but what to do when you get mostly upright?
You hope it falls before getting vertical !
I treat it as a regular standing tree
That's a widow maker leaning. You can be ok for now, don't know for how long....I don't believe you've ever seen a pro doing that cut before, did you. Very dangerous people out there teaching potentially more dangerous people.
This method does work. But not if you are trying to cut specific sized logs.
This is a safety video not a fireplace log video
“Quickest way to it is straight through it”- spear cut Steve
But then we are left with logs too long for the firebox.
There must be a better way of clamping the short poles for cutting.
That is my problem.
if bucken billy could see you he would have your chain saw confiscated.
Thank you for posting this video. I volunteer in a local public park that is FILLED with hung trees. This video will prove very useful.