Brother! I was about to tackle this with no manual but googled it and came across your video. Mines a 89 but still very similar. Super helpful. Thank you!
i have been a mechanic in some fashion since the 90's, all the way from auto mechanic up through industrial mechanic. Mechanics come in many levels from technician to craftsman, your patience and attention to detail are on a craftsmanship level, keep up the good work my Brother... watching this series is like therapy for us old a$$ mechanics!
Wow! I appreciate the kind words my friend! 🙏😍 this work is therapy for myself as well. If you keep watching then the videos will keep coming! The car community is quite amazing ❤
The blue seal is a Teflon seal. The “spongy” one. And the white seal right after you said you don’t know what it goes to; is the Teflon seal sizer. You put it over the blue seal for like 3 min and it compresses it slightly to fit in the tube without tearing it. They use them in auto trans a lot if you’ve never seen them before.
Thanks! Your video helped me dismantle my C4 Rack without damaging anything. This C4 rack I bought was supposed to be remanufactured by Lonestar Caliper. However, none of the parts (o-rings, boots, tie rods, etc) appear to new and parts were never cleaned properly. The lower pinion bearing has no grease! But Lonestar Caliper says it is not theirs even though it was in a Lonestar Caliper box and the seller says they only get their racks from Lonestar Caliper. I bought a rebuild kit and will "remanufacture" it myself with all new replaceable parts.
To compress the teflon o-rings I used plastic from milk/water jugs to completely cover the o-rings. Then I used hose clamps to progressively compress the o-rings over a 2 days period. They installed with no problem. However my first try at the internal shaft seal failed because I installed the seal before the rack. Second try I installed the seal on the rack first then installed the rack and tapped it into place. @@vikingtrad3r
Super helpful, thank you!! Can you please put the part number for the rebuild kit (Gates 351690?) and possibly even where you got them? Also, it might be good to amend the title to say "C4 Corvette" and place the years this applies to since not everything is 84-96 on these cars. I think your kit only applies to 84-87 but the process is likely similar. Again, super appreciated! I just want to make sure others can find this content as well.
I just found your video and it's been very helpful. I would like to know if you can guide me with clocking the rack and pinion, I'm using a rack and pinion off an 84 Vette and installed it on my 57 Chevy truck but the lines on top are in the way. I need to rotate them to the front of the rack and pinion. Thanks for any help that you can provide.
Hmm that's a tough one. I didn't have to clock this one fortunately and I'm not entirely sure it's possible. Only way I could see this working a little easier for you would be to make some custom fabricated lines and route them to the front and around the body to avoid interference. The top lines (if I'm thinking correctly) are the lines that transfer fluid to each chamber and they should be very close to equal length to allow equal flow to each side at a minimum.
@@RustedandBusted Thanks for your response, yes, I'm talking about the top lines. I've seen them when they have rotated the housing where the top lines are moved to the front so the engine can sit down a little further and still remove the rack and pinion if necessary.
@jklmbrand I gotcha now. The black sleeved portion I can't recall if it has a rivet or set screw holding it in place. It is two pieces though so if you were able to rotate it you may have to drill through a new location to set it in place and plug up the area where the original hole was. Failing that, you may be able to tap new holes in the body of the rack and add new fittings where you made the holes. Obviously way more work there but you could then put the fitting anywhere you want.
Hey, another "Rusted" channel..., great job with that Rack. Yknow i remember getting a crash course on Racks in tech school, but it was just with 1 mock up for everyone to see. I need to do this to a 2003 impala i have, it "should be" a relatively similar process.ts a shame how many racks are replaced for leaking, yet like yours, they still work, no damaged gears or bearings. Oh well, great video!
If your hesitant to build the rack and pinion, look for local rebuilders. I found a guy that has been doing this for 40 years and bought a rebuilt one for cheap (with exchange).
Oh no!!! 😔 I hope this video will help! Word of advice from my mistake! Turns out the new seals were installed correctly as per the video BUT I had the main spline off one tooth so when I had moved the car and turned the wheel lock to lock the fluid blew past the outer seal and leaked again! You'll see this in a later video in the series 🤣 Other than that it's pretty easy to do 😉👍
Great video.. I was considering doing this because I took my rack out for a used one that is about the same. I figured I can rebuild my original one since it's out the car. Also what causes that sort of thud noise when you shake the steeringwheel left to right. They keep telling me its the rack but is that a simple part that shouldn't require rebuild?
Thanks for tuning in! We'll the thud could be a few things in that system. There are linkages and joints all through that to the wheels. Worst case you would have a tooth missing somewhere within but you'll have to take it apart to figure that out. I hope the video helps!
Thank you for the view inside that power rack assy. I have one, on a Pontiac G6 that after the lines from the power-piston-to-steering input were replaced, the steering would violently shake back and forth…..if you touch the wheel. Almost like an inline air sander does. Im thinking that my tech may have found a way to cross the lines,( lol!) what do you think?
Happy to post it and glad you got some insight inside of yours as well! The violent shakes in your G6 rack could be an issue with the electric assist motor or gear I'd say just from experience. If the rack or gear doesn't quite line up to its sensors it would likely try to jerk the wheel wherever it thinks it needs to be. The solution could be replacing the assist motor or worse rhe rack itself. I don't think lines can be crossed on the physical rack only because they can be different sizes on the I let and outlet as well as the bends in the pressure lines are made specifically for the connections they go to. 🤷♂️ best of luck with yours and be sure to let me know iw what you find out!
@@mikestone234 interesting.. 🤔 seems like very odd behavior for sure. In that case the main shaft from the wheel has several seals which separate the supply and return. I would then think perhaps there is a cross there somewhere that when under pressure leaks by. You can follow the lines on your rack to the pump and confirm the lines are correct but I'd think if they were only reversed the rack would still function.. 🤔 when he installed the new lines did he bleed the system? Perhaps an air pocket in there could cause issues as well
Im just doing my 84 rack now , it didnt have an o ring under the blue teflon ring, im wondering weather its worrh putting it in or not, what do you think?
Hmmm good question! Personally I would add it just because it worked for me.. not too sure what the implications would be if its not there.. BUT funny how it was not in the first place.. very strange
More to come my man! Thanks for tuning in!! I had considered side exhaust but the ministry of transportation would have a field day here lol 😆 the body kit will essentially touch the ground when aired out so you shouldn't see a thing 👍
On www.rockauto.com you're looking for a "EDELMANN 8608" This is the kit that I used :) good luck! I believe the kit came as a "gates" brand but this is the same thing on their website.
@JohnRebello-383 no, the tube stays together. If you look closely when I take the part to the vice I insert the tool all the way down from one end. Things why you need the extension. It is the same for re installation as well
@@RustedandBusted ok thank you.i have a 1986 Corvette and I built a 550 HP 383 stroker motor.so I'm going through the whole car.i did all super pro bushing on car.wow that was tough.but my rack and ponion was not leaking but I just wanted a rebuild.im half way done but that inside one had me baffled Thank you.any questions on the vet let me know like I said I went through my whole car bolt to bolt
Ahh Rats! I thought I forgot to mention something! What you want to do is center the rack main shaft at its center which for me was 2" exactly of extrusion on either side then mark the input shaft with a paint marker. The spline on the input shaft then was put back in similar to a distributor where you place it in the housing 5 degress or less before the mark you made. It should slide in with a bit of finess from that point and then double check measurements 😉👍
That cap on the bottom that you popped off with a screwdriver, did you reuse the same one? I accidently cut a tiny slit in mine and I'm not sure how to repair it. I already have the rack of the vehicle it's a 05 Cavalier. Thanks
Thanks for tuning in! Yes I did reuse it. I would try to JB weld the slit or find a way to seal it with RTV perhaps. Luckily it is separate from the hydraulics and only a grease cap for the bearing so it just has to seal a low pressure area to keep dust and moisture out 👍 let me know how it goes!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2002 gmc 1500 Sierra that came from factory with exact same rack. I could not find any info on it. Check into a rack for Sierra 02 , only $400. Thank you I am going to rebuild mine now.
Glad I posted it! I hope it helps you too! Check the comments here as there are a lot of extra tips and some information I wasn't able to capture 🙏 Look back 20yrs.. I'd be lost without TH-cam 🤣 thanks for watching! Hope your project is a success as well!
I'm in the process of rebuilding mine right now but need some help! I need a link to the 2 tubes you used to install both shafts! Any help would be appreciated because I can't find them thank you!
So jealous, you're making exactly what I'd make out of my 84'. Bought my C4 as a bucket list item when my health had some challenges, I got better, but sadly I could never find a garage near me to do what I wanted for the car. Someday...
Congrats on conquering those health issues! You have the C4 now.. hopefully it all comes together for you again 👍 When you're ready, hopefully these videos will help you meet your goal 😊
Nice to see. I rock an '86. When my rack started to go, (years ago- "morning sickness") I got a rebuilt unit through my NAPA guy. It's my understanding the GM racks wear the piston bores (in an aluminum housing, hence the "sickness"), the rebuilt unit is supposed to be steel sleeved as preventative-repair.
Great information to have! Thank you for commenting! I hope she lasts a while as is with new seals. That makes perfect sense though shame that they wear to then need a sleeve. Thanks for tuning in!
I did! I tried to show it in the video but it was hard to show.. I used a socket, a few extensions and a mallet to punch it out. same for the installation. I hope that helps!
Try a Nissan 240sx rack that center splitter on the internal rack bar always scores the rack housing on the way out. These chevy racks are beautiful to do. I’m rebuilding my trailblazer SS rack and stopped by to be sure Its not the same as the Nissan design. The Vette and TB rack are very similar. Thank you!
Did the steering rack end up leaking at all post install? In short was it worth doing yourself? I’m thinking of repairing my own as the price for repair is just too expensive. Cheers
Thanks for tuning in! It was totally worth it! Mine DID leak and it was only because of some oversight on my own work. Everything was very easy to do once it was apart and nothing was really that difficult other than one snap ring on the pass side shaft that was a pain. Make sure you place the spline gear "EXACTLY" where it came from or dead center of the shaft that connects the tie rods, mine was off one tooth and when I went full lock to one side it popped passed the seal and leaked everywhere. Just make some marks you can see and place it carefully. The rest was very straightforward 😁👍
You got it! Was more worried about having to buy one if it was knackered inside... but wee should be good to go! After no PS in that RX, I REEEEALLY want it now lol
did this work for you? no leaks? This video helped me figure out how to rebuild my rack, but I just reinstalled it and it's leaking like a sieve out of both sides. Now that I'm thinking about it, the inner seal probably got nicked when I slid it past the holes inside the bore of the rack. IDK how that could be avoided, though. Maybe it's just because I didn't lube it before pressing it in. that might explain the leak on the left side but it's also leaking on the right side and idk why else that would happen.... unless I put the seals in backwards but I'm sure I didn't
It did work for me BUT it did leak as well. Only thing I did wrong was not put the main spline gear back in on center and when I went full lock the seal pushed out on the driver's side and dumped the fluid on the driveway. Once I made the adjustment it was fine. You definitely need to lubricate everything while installing
Brother! I was about to tackle this with no manual but googled it and came across your video. Mines a 89 but still very similar. Super helpful. Thank you!
Awesome!! Hope it helps!! I do know the 84 is its own unfortunately but yes very similar 😎👌 good luck!
Very thankful for my elders for all the valuable information, appreciate everyone who makes videos. Especially good ones
Happy to help those in need my friend 🙏
i have been a mechanic in some fashion since the 90's, all the way from auto mechanic up through industrial mechanic. Mechanics come in many levels from technician to craftsman, your patience and attention to detail are on a craftsmanship level, keep up the good work my Brother... watching this series is like therapy for us old a$$ mechanics!
Wow! I appreciate the kind words my friend! 🙏😍 this work is therapy for myself as well. If you keep watching then the videos will keep coming! The car community is quite amazing ❤
The blue seal is a Teflon seal. The “spongy” one. And the white seal right after you said you don’t know what it goes to; is the Teflon seal sizer. You put it over the blue seal for like 3 min and it compresses it slightly to fit in the tube without tearing it. They use them in auto trans a lot if you’ve never seen them before.
Ahhhh! That makes so much sense now! 🤦♂️ Thank you for the info and for tuning in!
I can not for the life of me get these teflon rings inside their tubes
It's definitely not an easy task. It took me MANY attempts. Patience my friend 🙏
Well I fucked mine up and used the white one as the seal, welp I’ll by another rebuilt kit if it leaks
Oh no!! Fingers crossed it works out!! 💪
Thanks! Your video helped me dismantle my C4 Rack without damaging anything. This C4 rack I bought was supposed to be remanufactured by Lonestar Caliper. However, none of the parts (o-rings, boots, tie rods, etc) appear to new and parts were never cleaned properly. The lower pinion bearing has no grease! But Lonestar Caliper says it is not theirs even though it was in a Lonestar Caliper box and the seller says they only get their racks from Lonestar Caliper. I bought a rebuild kit and will "remanufacture" it myself with all new replaceable parts.
Heyyy! So glad this helped! Brutal that sellers still have to be this way 😞 glad you got it all figured out though! Happy cruising 😁
Did you rebuild your rack? How did it ho and any tips?
To compress the teflon o-rings I used plastic from milk/water jugs to completely cover the o-rings. Then I used hose clamps to progressively compress the o-rings over a 2 days period. They installed with no problem. However my first try at the internal shaft seal failed because I installed the seal before the rack. Second try I installed the seal on the rack first then installed the rack and tapped it into place. @@vikingtrad3r
Amazing! Great work!
fantastic video replaced my power steering pump on my 88 and came across this glad i did
Glad it helped! I wouldn't want to do this too many times lol
Love the chill music !!
Thanks! 🙏
Super helpful, thank you!! Can you please put the part number for the rebuild kit (Gates 351690?) and possibly even where you got them? Also, it might be good to amend the title to say "C4 Corvette" and place the years this applies to since not everything is 84-96 on these cars. I think your kit only applies to 84-87 but the process is likely similar. Again, super appreciated! I just want to make sure others can find this content as well.
Thanks for tuning in! Description and title have been changed ✌️ I have been meaning to update that so thank you!
Not even kidding I am in the process and f pulling mine out and getting ready to rebuild!! Awesome video brotha!!
Awesome to hear buddy!! Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and supporting!!
what made the joke so good was how much SHE loved it! i added that one to my Dad joke repertoire!
Haha! She loves her dad jokes, thats for sure 🤣🤣 Im sure she has a bunch up her sleeve 😉
How did you take the middle seal off (14 in long one)
Two 1/2" extentions and a socket that barely fit down the shaft to punch it out. Same with re installation
Nice video, and nice Vette. Well done buddy.
Thank you for tuning in! 🙏 I appreciate the kind words as well. More content to come!
Thank you for your video. How to set the pre load spring (side bolt)?
Thanks for watching! I can't recall at this time. I think it may have been in the manual. 🤔 sorry
I wanna go out to McDonald’s and get a happy meal with nuggets of wisdom!!! Lol great video 👍🏻
😄😄 Thanks Dan!
I just found your video and it's been very helpful. I would like to know if you can guide me with clocking the rack and pinion, I'm using a rack and pinion off an 84 Vette and installed it on my 57 Chevy truck but the lines on top are in the way. I need to rotate them to the front of the rack and pinion. Thanks for any help that you can provide.
Hmm that's a tough one. I didn't have to clock this one fortunately and I'm not entirely sure it's possible. Only way I could see this working a little easier for you would be to make some custom fabricated lines and route them to the front and around the body to avoid interference. The top lines (if I'm thinking correctly) are the lines that transfer fluid to each chamber and they should be very close to equal length to allow equal flow to each side at a minimum.
@@RustedandBusted Thanks for your response, yes, I'm talking about the top lines. I've seen them when they have rotated the housing where the top lines are moved to the front so the engine can sit down a little further and still remove the rack and pinion if necessary.
@jklmbrand I gotcha now. The black sleeved portion I can't recall if it has a rivet or set screw holding it in place. It is two pieces though so if you were able to rotate it you may have to drill through a new location to set it in place and plug up the area where the original hole was.
Failing that, you may be able to tap new holes in the body of the rack and add new fittings where you made the holes. Obviously way more work there but you could then put the fitting anywhere you want.
Hey, another "Rusted" channel..., great job with that Rack. Yknow i remember getting a crash course on Racks in tech school, but it was just with 1 mock up for everyone to see. I need to do this to a 2003 impala i have, it "should be" a relatively similar process.ts a shame how many racks are replaced for leaking, yet like yours, they still work, no damaged gears or bearings. Oh well, great video!
Thanks brother!!! Good luck with your repair as well! They're nasty but very rewarding 😍🤘
If your hesitant to build the rack and pinion, look for local rebuilders. I found a guy that has been doing this for 40 years and bought a rebuilt one for cheap (with exchange).
Nice! Super clean! I built a “only one in the world” Batmobile using a 84 chassis and guess what just started leaking 😢so thanks for the video
Oh no!!! 😔 I hope this video will help! Word of advice from my mistake! Turns out the new seals were installed correctly as per the video BUT I had the main spline off one tooth so when I had moved the car and turned the wheel lock to lock the fluid blew past the outer seal and leaked again! You'll see this in a later video in the series 🤣
Other than that it's pretty easy to do 😉👍
Great video.. I was considering doing this because I took my rack out for a used one that is about the same. I figured I can rebuild my original one since it's out the car. Also what causes that sort of thud noise when you shake the steeringwheel left to right. They keep telling me its the rack but is that a simple part that shouldn't require rebuild?
Thanks for tuning in! We'll the thud could be a few things in that system. There are linkages and joints all through that to the wheels. Worst case you would have a tooth missing somewhere within but you'll have to take it apart to figure that out. I hope the video helps!
Thank you for the view inside that power rack assy. I have one, on a Pontiac G6 that after the lines from the power-piston-to-steering input were replaced, the steering would violently shake back and forth…..if you touch the wheel. Almost like an inline air sander does. Im thinking that my tech may have found a way to cross the lines,( lol!) what do you think?
Happy to post it and glad you got some insight inside of yours as well! The violent shakes in your G6 rack could be an issue with the electric assist motor or gear I'd say just from experience. If the rack or gear doesn't quite line up to its sensors it would likely try to jerk the wheel wherever it thinks it needs to be. The solution could be replacing the assist motor or worse rhe rack itself. I don't think lines can be crossed on the physical rack only because they can be different sizes on the I let and outlet as well as the bends in the pressure lines are made specifically for the connections they go to. 🤷♂️ best of luck with yours and be sure to let me know iw what you find out!
@@RustedandBusted this one is hydraulic only. Thanks.
@@mikestone234 interesting.. 🤔 seems like very odd behavior for sure. In that case the main shaft from the wheel has several seals which separate the supply and return. I would then think perhaps there is a cross there somewhere that when under pressure leaks by. You can follow the lines on your rack to the pump and confirm the lines are correct but I'd think if they were only reversed the rack would still function.. 🤔 when he installed the new lines did he bleed the system? Perhaps an air pocket in there could cause issues as well
Wow. that is one clean engine
Thank you kindly 🙏
Im just doing my 84 rack now , it didnt have an o ring under the blue teflon ring, im wondering weather its worrh putting it in or not, what do you think?
Hmmm good question! Personally I would add it just because it worked for me.. not too sure what the implications would be if its not there.. BUT funny how it was not in the first place.. very strange
@@RustedandBusted yea,very odd, thanks for tour reply
@@brent56 my pleasure 🙏 best of luck! Let me know how it goes!
I can't wait to see more! What do you think about side exhaust exit or side skirts to hide the ride height?
More to come my man! Thanks for tuning in!! I had considered side exhaust but the ministry of transportation would have a field day here lol 😆 the body kit will essentially touch the ground when aired out so you shouldn't see a thing 👍
Hi! can you add link or part number to that rebuild kit ? btw once again great video!
Thanks for tuning in! Absolutely! Now I just need to find it 🤪
On www.rockauto.com you're looking for a "EDELMANN 8608" This is the kit that I used :) good luck! I believe the kit came as a "gates" brand but this is the same thing on their website.
do. you know where I can find repair manual for 88 mustang rack and pinion
My recommendation would be www.rockauto.com. that's where I was able to find the one for the C4
How did you replace the seal in the middle of the tube??
@@JohnRebello-383 I used about a 17mm pr so socket and a few extentions and hammered it out. It's a bit hard to see in the video
@@RustedandBusted did you take the tube apart where there are two rivet like ?
@JohnRebello-383 no, the tube stays together. If you look closely when I take the part to the vice I insert the tool all the way down from one end. Things why you need the extension. It is the same for re installation as well
@@RustedandBusted ok thank you.i have a 1986 Corvette and I built a 550 HP 383 stroker motor.so I'm going through the whole car.i did all super pro bushing on car.wow that was tough.but my rack and ponion was not leaking but I just wanted a rebuild.im half way done but that inside one had me baffled
Thank you.any questions on the vet let me know like I said I went through my whole car bolt to bolt
That's awesome! Sounds like a great car and thank you for the offer for the resources!!
Have you ever smelled any differential oil.
Oh yes, nothing smells worse than that 😆
how did you line up your steering gear with the linear teeth on the shaft. I picked up a quick ratio that turns more to one side than the other. lol.
Ahh Rats! I thought I forgot to mention something! What you want to do is center the rack main shaft at its center which for me was 2" exactly of extrusion on either side then mark the input shaft with a paint marker. The spline on the input shaft then was put back in similar to a distributor where you place it in the housing 5 degress or less before the mark you made. It should slide in with a bit of finess from that point and then double check measurements 😉👍
That cap on the bottom that you popped off with a screwdriver, did you reuse the same one? I accidently cut a tiny slit in mine and I'm not sure how to repair it. I already have the rack of the vehicle it's a 05 Cavalier. Thanks
Thanks for tuning in! Yes I did reuse it. I would try to JB weld the slit or find a way to seal it with RTV perhaps. Luckily it is separate from the hydraulics and only a grease cap for the bearing so it just has to seal a low pressure area to keep dust and moisture out 👍 let me know how it goes!
@@RustedandBusted Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have a 2002 gmc 1500 Sierra that came from factory with exact same rack. I could not find any info on it. Check into a rack for Sierra 02 , only $400. Thank you I am going to rebuild mine now.
Glad I posted it! I hope it helps you too! Check the comments here as there are a lot of extra tips and some information I wasn't able to capture 🙏 Look back 20yrs.. I'd be lost without TH-cam 🤣 thanks for watching! Hope your project is a success as well!
I'm in the process of rebuilding mine right now but need some help! I need a link to the 2 tubes you used to install both shafts! Any help would be appreciated because I can't find them thank you!
Hey Brandin! I'm not sure which tubes you are referring to but im happy to help! Can you give me the time in the video to what tubes you need?
So jealous, you're making exactly what I'd make out of my 84'. Bought my C4 as a bucket list item when my health had some challenges, I got better, but sadly I could never find a garage near me to do what I wanted for the car. Someday...
Congrats on conquering those health issues! You have the C4 now.. hopefully it all comes together for you again 👍 When you're ready, hopefully these videos will help you meet your goal 😊
Your a GOD bro! Keep these videos coming. You make it look easy!
Wow thank you for the kind words my man! More to come!
Do you have a link to the kit you bought?
I do! It's in the comments below 😎👍
Nice to see. I rock an '86. When my rack started to go, (years ago- "morning sickness") I got a rebuilt unit through my NAPA guy. It's my understanding the GM racks wear the piston bores (in an aluminum housing, hence the "sickness"), the rebuilt unit is supposed to be steel sleeved as preventative-repair.
Great information to have! Thank you for commenting! I hope she lasts a while as is with new seals. That makes perfect sense though shame that they wear to then need a sleeve. Thanks for tuning in!
Did you replace the seal inside it? If so, how did you get it out?
I did! I tried to show it in the video but it was hard to show.. I used a socket, a few extensions and a mallet to punch it out. same for the installation. I hope that helps!
@@RustedandBusted
Thank you!
Where did you get that manual?
Good day! Www.rockauto.com you can find them all and original reprint manuals as well 👍
Theres a kit that power steering seals sells.turn one uses same kit
Try a Nissan 240sx rack that center splitter on the internal rack bar always scores the rack housing on the way out. These chevy racks are beautiful to do. I’m rebuilding my trailblazer SS rack and stopped by to be sure Its not the same as the Nissan design. The Vette and TB rack are very similar. Thank you!
Oooff that sounds nasty 😄 Glad the video helped as well! I'd rather not do it too many more times regardless of the rack but it was a fun one to try 🤣
Did the steering rack end up leaking at all post install? In short was it worth doing yourself? I’m thinking of repairing my own as the price for repair is just too expensive. Cheers
Thanks for tuning in! It was totally worth it! Mine DID leak and it was only because of some oversight on my own work. Everything was very easy to do once it was apart and nothing was really that difficult other than one snap ring on the pass side shaft that was a pain.
Make sure you place the spline gear "EXACTLY" where it came from or dead center of the shaft that connects the tie rods, mine was off one tooth and when I went full lock to one side it popped passed the seal and leaked everywhere. Just make some marks you can see and place it carefully. The rest was very straightforward 😁👍
That white seal is a weir bushing
Broom broom...lol...👍
🤣
Broom broom! Hahaha
@@Z32orDIe 😅😅
Like a pro, you were worried for nothing!!!
You got it! Was more worried about having to buy one if it was knackered inside... but wee should be good to go! After no PS in that RX, I REEEEALLY want it now lol
🧙♀️
Broom Broom!
The joke wasn't all that great. At least she's pretty!😂
did this work for you? no leaks?
This video helped me figure out how to rebuild my rack, but I just reinstalled it and it's leaking like a sieve out of both sides. Now that I'm thinking about it, the inner seal probably got nicked when I slid it past the holes inside the bore of the rack. IDK how that could be avoided, though. Maybe it's just because I didn't lube it before pressing it in. that might explain the leak on the left side but it's also leaking on the right side and idk why else that would happen.... unless I put the seals in backwards but I'm sure I didn't
It did work for me BUT it did leak as well. Only thing I did wrong was not put the main spline gear back in on center and when I went full lock the seal pushed out on the driver's side and dumped the fluid on the driveway. Once I made the adjustment it was fine.
You definitely need to lubricate everything while installing