Thanks for this review, just one clarification. Please, never place the tall leg of a c-stand in the opposite direction of the load. I know it seems like it makes sense and if enough counterweight is used, then it can obviously work but it is still inherently unsafe. I can't tell you the number of lights I've seen crash to the ground when a clueless PA starts pulling sandbags while the light is still rigged out front of that kind of rigging. By placing the tall leg in the direction of and directly under the load (and properly bagged), you are gaining a mechanical advantage that allows for safe use of the boomed out fixture without the need for massive amounts of counterweigh and much less danger that the stand will fall over if the weight is improperly removed.
I appreciate the comment Mark! Though, In my experience in my gaffing years, it’s still the less dangerous option. I’ve seen far more lights topple over, especially if being hastily reset to accommodate for modifiers or set dec. As for the PA taking the bags… that’s true, and I’d be lying if I said that I haven’t seen the same. However, I try to make sure on my sets that PAs never touch gear unless it’s no longer in play. They don’t have the experience to be safe and it’s often placing them in jeopardy as well. Systems exist to make it safer for everyone, as long as they follow the system.
@@vistek All the experience in the world doesn't matter if the physics is in disagreement, and in this case, it's quite settled. The big leg towards the load is by far the most stable configuration for a c-stand. Saying otherwise is at best wrong, and at worst, dangerous. If you've seen lights topple, it's only because operators were being unsafe or overloading their equipment, not because the big leg was towards the load instead of away from it.
Thank you for the overview. So far yours is the most comprehensive review I can find of the PavoSlim line, and you’ve definitely convinced me to start adding these to my kit. For quick setups and easy packing, I don’t think there’s anything better on the market right now.
As a Gaffer, thank you so much for this review. Just placed an order for one each color model. What I really wanted to see that I couldn't find online, anywhere else, were a few things. The operation of the header cable connection. Sure, Litegear's PDX is great, but these look just as good too, if not better. With the one handed twist lock. Love that. The new ballast clamp looks amazing. Like a hybrid between the Nanlux Evoke clamp and old forza clamps. And the angle degree of the lenses! Normal diodes have roughly like a 120 to 180 degree beam angle. So 60 degrees is huge! and pulling 150W of power, the Pavoslim 120C could be brighter than a Litemat Spectrum 2L and close to the Spectrum 4. With the latest generation spectrum 3's already out, these really look like a much better generation of products than what Litegear has given us. I'm honestly super impressed by Nanlite and would've expected these to come from Nanlux.
Thank you so much Mastermatt63! I'm a former gaffer, and I'm happy that you picked up on my genuine love for these fixtures. A long time coming from Nanlite. The quality enhancements overall from Nanlite/Nanlux in the last 3-4 years has been outstanding. They've gone from an entry level brand to full professional but are keeping the prices reasonable. I've never been more impressed than with their last few fixture releases. For me, it's almost always been about durability - and where I've felt they've (rightfully) cut corners in the past. The PavoSlims prove that durability and professional use will no longer be an issue (well, time will tell what ends up wearing out/breaking and if the fixtures are repairable). If I had two complaints it would be: I wish they left a little scoop in the metal backing to thread a safety chain through. My 2nd complaint is it would be great if they made a ballast powerful enough to make a daisy chain connection. So you could have say, 4 heads running off one ballast like a DMX universe. This way you wouldn't have to rig up each ballast as well. I also hope they come out with larger versions so you don't need the couplers. But all told, these lights are amazing.
@@vistek ah yes, please make the safety loop bigger than the Litegear one. And I really hope the bigger ballast is down the line. Would be amazing to have a 2, 2L, and 4 configurations off one ballast.
Those coupling brackets mentioned at 5:30 are going to be such a clutch trick to use multiple of these together with. I appreciate you showing that as well as the comparison to the LiteGear Litemat.
@@vistek Nanlite has come a long ways. I have a 720B and their Pavotubes 30x's. along with older 300B's and a 500. Want to get the dual 500BII kit they have. I also own 2 Aputure Novas. I'm not a gaffer but a DP. I like having a nice lighting kit. These Pavoslims are interesting as they have that collapsible softbox that can be removed if needed.
And Aputure Amaran P60c is half the lux output of the Pavoslim 120c. Wish Aputure had a similar design and a 2x1 to compete with the Pavoslim 120c. Question. How is the Nanlite app compared to Sidus Link?
How useful is the C vs the bi version? I saw on IndieMogul that RGB vs using a gel over the light does not render lights accurately. Does this apply still when using G/M adjustments? The guest on that episode is a guy from Quasar. If you want, I can search for the episode.
Yes, this is now quite a well known and often cited video. And yes, this is true. However, LED technology is becoming better - but you often pay for the “best” and there are still some wavelength discrepancies. Colour render also has to factor in the camera sensor as well. Neither technique is better or worse for color accuracy, other than if you’re after a very specific colour, then you should be doing tests.
@@vistek so when you corect magenta-green with the higher end lights, does it work to reproduce in cam somewhat natural colors as seen by the eye?? I'm choosing between a pavoslim color and an F22c or something like that. I'm working with a komodo, occasionally some sony or canon dslr.
I am between this and the Amaran F22C. I see this light as a more “quick” solution, but the amaran is bigger, softer and practically the same price. Any other opinion comparing this two lights?
Hi Mikey, great question. Both are fantastic fixtures. There is a lot of great things about the Amaran, in terms of it's flexibility. Neither fixture would be the wrong choice - but my initial observations are: 1. Output - the smaller Nanlite 120c is half the size of the Amaran, yet outputs twice the light. This is likely because of the metal heat sinks of the PavoSlim. If you coupled them, to produce the same size light as the Amaran, you are buying yourself 3 extra stops of light. 2. Durability / Speed - where the Amaran gives you loads of rigging options, it can be more finicky and time consuming to rig (situation dependant). I also question how much one could use the Amaran and not run into over-use damage. Whereas, the PavoSlims are built like a rental fixture and the pop up soft box can be another timesaver. They have very few moving parts - so they will likely take more abuse. This 2nd point is very minor - it's super situational. I don't think you're going to run into any significant rigging or durability issues with the Amaran. 3. PavoSlim (C versions) have CRMX built in. Hope this helps!
Depends on if you see yourself using the light with manual control or needing DMX control. I prefer using CRMX to control my lights so these would beat having to use the Amaran DMX to USB-C adapter with the F22C and a CRMX receiver.
You might've already made a choice but I've had the F22C since launch. It's a great light, but as you pointed out, it does take slightly longer to setup than these single piece panel lights. I've recently got the Lantern accessory which is amazing for creating soft overhead light however, I would only do it on a combo stand as it can get quite weighty and unstable on a c-stand. I would also make sure to factor in the improved mounting bracket they released based on user feedback, as the included one is terrible. Otherwise I'm also tempted by these Nanlite fixtures for their professional features like CRMX and fast setup time. Thanks for the review guys!
No gold mount option is annoying with lower wattage fixtures. I get it when you need 26V batteries for the bigger lights, but these lower wattage panel lights are ideal to run off of 14V batteries, and gold mount is so much more secure in awkward rigging.
Well, define outdoor. Outdoor is a big place with lots going on. So, are you competing with direct sun? Are you in the shade? How close can you place the fixture to your subject? How diffused do you want the lighting to be? Do you have a plan to manage, diffuse, bounce, or block sunlight? Are you lighting one person, or more? Are you lighting a medium close up, a close up, a medium, or a full shot? I can go on and on....
I used what I had access to in order to illustrate a few examples - with the intent of making a review video a little bit more interesting. I have no interest in making an hour long video with every bit of kit available to mankind.
@@vistekdo you hear what you say and the relation to my question? I see you made an hour long build with contraptions and mathellinis and countre arms 😅.... there is a d650 i told you. Did u even watch ur video?
WHAT? Don’t EVER do that cardellini thing with the c-stand riser. What the actual F there’s no way that’s union compliant, a safety chain ain’t doin shit when that falls apart. What’s crazy is you HAVE A BOOM STAND, so you know they exist. You can’t get a smaller one? instead of Frankensteining FOUR c-stands (or ordering 3 discrete gobo arms and a cardellini, the cost of an entire second c-stand). You can’t even claim price is too high, bc that’s the same cost as a pro kit stand or low boy, plus a boom arm. You’re either doing it on purpose for engagement like my comment here, OR… idk you’re just not very smart? sigh, look. That’s SO dangerous, PLEASE don’t EVER rig a light like that on an actual job with other humans.
Thank you for your comment, dymonmein. I think this is a great opportunity to open the discussion a bit further and have you explain a bit more on why you believe it is critically dangerous. I worked as a gaffer for 8 years, in and out of the local union. On smaller non-union productions, it's more than typical to run out of equipment and have to rig elements together. Budgets aren't limitless. The goal in rigging is to understand the vital limits of your rig. Every rig has its limits - even Skyjacks/Condors. I believe that it's generally never ideal (safety wise) for the base stand in this rig to be a c-stand, being the shifting legs offering the greatest area of weakness. However, with a reasonable load - at which I believe the PavoSlim definitely qualifies, and taking the precautions to use a ratchet strap or a magic arm, there is no clear evidence that this system is unsafe in any way. I've never seen this rig setup to be unsafe if done correctly and minding the load that we place on it. The goal of the various rigs in this video was to express the various ways one could rig the PavoSlim. It was not intended in any way to bait people. I still stand by this - but I also open the floor for us to have a reasonable conversation about this outside of vitriol and insults. If you can explain your position further about what specifically you find troubling and where the safety issues are, I'm more than happy to consider these and change my position. - Dale.
@@vistek yes absolutely. Thanks for asking. So. That’s true, gaff and grip often need to rig things MacGuyver-style. But safely. For example: One of the main features of a cardellini is the spinning nut, if something bumps that just a little bit, your whole arm comes down. Also, even if you’ve personally tested and used that specific setup thousands of times, your viewers likely haven’t. It invites injury, and I feel it’s irresponsible. Especially when you could’ve simply shot another take with an actual boom. Then you say “budgets aren’t limitless” - which I totally get - but that comes back to my point that you had to cannibalize like 4 c-stands, which are now armless (lol “armless c-stands” why does that sound so funny). So add the price of the actual stands, then subtract their c-stand-ability they’re basically light stands now lol. Look, I love unique grip rigs just as much as the next guy. Maybe more. I just think you went a little overboard with that setup. It just might have the *weight* capacity, sure. But it’s much more precarious than I think you realize or admit. Moreover, somebody could try something like this after watching your videos, then hurt themselves or get someone fired. They may not know to consider things like the weight of a PavoSlim vs, say, a SkyPanel or something. Or at least do it in a video where you can give an in-depth explanation, idk. Thanks for the response and sorry if I came off a bit over-zealous in my first comment :) 🤙🏼
Thanks for the thorough explanation of your point. I would like to agree with two specific points: 1. Yes, the cardelinni can open up. I may not have done it in this video (yes, I'm too lazy to go back and look now that I'm writing this) - but in this set up, I almost always drop the finished clamp to the grip head, effectively locking it (because the tightening arm cannot fit). My error, perhaps is not fully demonstrating this. 2. You are correct in that this information - open to whomever sees it, without thorough explanation can be dangerous in the hands of inexperienced people. I believe there is a very large grey area in which we as professionals and as (dare I say), educators have to work in and make some level of assumptions. Did I make a good call here or a bad one? From your perspective, I made a good one. But I've seen this rig built by seasoned professional key grips, and amateurs alike. In my opinion, it's still safer than connecting two 40" grip arms and gets the fixture out further. Is it possible that someone will try this and then rig a heavy fixture to it? Sure! But I have to make a call on what I believe demonstrates a variety of options for a variety of film-makers, operating on a variety of budgets. Not every geographic area even has access to boom arms, or menace arm kits. So in conclusion, I'm happy to keep your comment, and this conversation up & to keep it going. The information is here for the viewer to both know that caution must be employed when building any overhead rigs, and they also get that message from another industry professional. Alongside, they continue to get my explanation and my position which I'm not defending as being 100% correct - though I we do not see eye-to-eye on how extreme it is. Perhaps if we had a chorus of other key grips in the comments telling me to shut it down, I'd be more inclined to re-consider my position. Perhaps this is an opportunity for you to rally your colleagues to do just that. I don't shy away from criticism. Critiques make for better content. In this particular case, I'm expressing that I don't believe what I've demonstrated to be irresponsible, with the exception that perhaps it could have come with some more descriptive caveats. - D
Thanks for this review, just one clarification. Please, never place the tall leg of a c-stand in the opposite direction of the load. I know it seems like it makes sense and if enough counterweight is used, then it can obviously work but it is still inherently unsafe. I can't tell you the number of lights I've seen crash to the ground when a clueless PA starts pulling sandbags while the light is still rigged out front of that kind of rigging. By placing the tall leg in the direction of and directly under the load (and properly bagged), you are gaining a mechanical advantage that allows for safe use of the boomed out fixture without the need for massive amounts of counterweigh and much less danger that the stand will fall over if the weight is improperly removed.
I appreciate the comment Mark! Though, In my experience in my gaffing years, it’s still the less dangerous option. I’ve seen far more lights topple over, especially if being hastily reset to accommodate for modifiers or set dec.
As for the PA taking the bags… that’s true, and I’d be lying if I said that I haven’t seen the same. However, I try to make sure on my sets that PAs never touch gear unless it’s no longer in play. They don’t have the experience to be safe and it’s often placing them in jeopardy as well. Systems exist to make it safer for everyone, as long as they follow the system.
@@vistek First, second and third rules to new PAs: Never touch anything that belongs to grip and eclectic! 😀
Came here to say this as well. The high leg of the stand should always be placed under the direction with the most weight hanging from the stand.
@@vistek All the experience in the world doesn't matter if the physics is in disagreement, and in this case, it's quite settled. The big leg towards the load is by far the most stable configuration for a c-stand. Saying otherwise is at best wrong, and at worst, dangerous.
If you've seen lights topple, it's only because operators were being unsafe or overloading their equipment, not because the big leg was towards the load instead of away from it.
This channel has been around a while, and you caught them in a flub like that??? Pffff 😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you for the overview. So far yours is the most comprehensive review I can find of the PavoSlim line, and you’ve definitely convinced me to start adding these to my kit. For quick setups and easy packing, I don’t think there’s anything better on the market right now.
Thanks for the great comment!! Appreciate the kind words and I agree - they fit a unique position in the market at the moment.
As a Gaffer, thank you so much for this review. Just placed an order for one each color model. What I really wanted to see that I couldn't find online, anywhere else, were a few things. The operation of the header cable connection. Sure, Litegear's PDX is great, but these look just as good too, if not better. With the one handed twist lock. Love that. The new ballast clamp looks amazing. Like a hybrid between the Nanlux Evoke clamp and old forza clamps. And the angle degree of the lenses! Normal diodes have roughly like a 120 to 180 degree beam angle. So 60 degrees is huge! and pulling 150W of power, the Pavoslim 120C could be brighter than a Litemat Spectrum 2L and close to the Spectrum 4. With the latest generation spectrum 3's already out, these really look like a much better generation of products than what Litegear has given us. I'm honestly super impressed by Nanlite and would've expected these to come from Nanlux.
Thank you so much Mastermatt63! I'm a former gaffer, and I'm happy that you picked up on my genuine love for these fixtures. A long time coming from Nanlite. The quality enhancements overall from Nanlite/Nanlux in the last 3-4 years has been outstanding. They've gone from an entry level brand to full professional but are keeping the prices reasonable. I've never been more impressed than with their last few fixture releases. For me, it's almost always been about durability - and where I've felt they've (rightfully) cut corners in the past. The PavoSlims prove that durability and professional use will no longer be an issue (well, time will tell what ends up wearing out/breaking and if the fixtures are repairable). If I had two complaints it would be: I wish they left a little scoop in the metal backing to thread a safety chain through. My 2nd complaint is it would be great if they made a ballast powerful enough to make a daisy chain connection. So you could have say, 4 heads running off one ballast like a DMX universe. This way you wouldn't have to rig up each ballast as well. I also hope they come out with larger versions so you don't need the couplers. But all told, these lights are amazing.
@@vistek ah yes, please make the safety loop bigger than the Litegear one. And I really hope the bigger ballast is down the line. Would be amazing to have a 2, 2L, and 4 configurations off one ballast.
Those coupling brackets mentioned at 5:30 are going to be such a clutch trick to use multiple of these together with. I appreciate you showing that as well as the comparison to the LiteGear Litemat.
Thanks for the great comment!
Great review. I really wish they would make a 300 watt 3x3 version of the Pavoslim. Be good for a quick interview setup
So do I. I'd like to see a direct size comparison to the LiteMat 4, and a long version without the coupler.
@@vistek Nanlite has come a long ways. I have a 720B and their Pavotubes 30x's. along with older 300B's and a 500. Want to get the dual 500BII kit they have. I also own 2 Aputure Novas. I'm not a gaffer but a DP. I like having a nice lighting kit. These Pavoslims are interesting as they have that collapsible softbox that can be removed if needed.
You might want to check out their Alien line of lights
This light is sick
Agreed!
What boom arm was that and the accessory in the front to hang the light off ?
strobe head boom arm, watched it back, know which brand/model you got ? thanks in advance.
Please see link in description. :)
Does version 60b also have a "green/magenta" driver like in 60c?
And Aputure Amaran P60c is half the lux output of the Pavoslim 120c.
Wish Aputure had a similar design and a 2x1 to compete with the Pavoslim 120c.
Question. How is the Nanlite app compared to Sidus Link?
I find them to be about the same (apps). They have each their own advantages and annoyances.
How useful is the C vs the bi version? I saw on IndieMogul that RGB vs using a gel over the light does not render lights accurately. Does this apply still when using G/M adjustments? The guest on that episode is a guy from Quasar. If you want, I can search for the episode.
Yes, this is now quite a well known and often cited video. And yes, this is true. However, LED technology is becoming better - but you often pay for the “best” and there are still some wavelength discrepancies. Colour render also has to factor in the camera sensor as well. Neither technique is better or worse for color accuracy, other than if you’re after a very specific colour, then you should be doing tests.
@@vistek so when you corect magenta-green with the higher end lights, does it work to reproduce in cam somewhat natural colors as seen by the eye?? I'm choosing between a pavoslim color and an F22c or something like that. I'm working with a komodo, occasionally some sony or canon dslr.
What is a stobe head boom and where do you buy one?
Hi Shawn, here it is:
www.vistek.ca/store/129588/manfrotto-025bs-super-boom-complete-008-steel-stand-black
I am between this and the Amaran F22C. I see this light as a more “quick” solution, but the amaran is bigger, softer and practically the same price. Any other opinion comparing this two lights?
Hi Mikey, great question. Both are fantastic fixtures. There is a lot of great things about the Amaran, in terms of it's flexibility. Neither fixture would be the wrong choice - but my initial observations are:
1. Output - the smaller Nanlite 120c is half the size of the Amaran, yet outputs twice the light. This is likely because of the metal heat sinks of the PavoSlim. If you coupled them, to produce the same size light as the Amaran, you are buying yourself 3 extra stops of light.
2. Durability / Speed - where the Amaran gives you loads of rigging options, it can be more finicky and time consuming to rig (situation dependant). I also question how much one could use the Amaran and not run into over-use damage. Whereas, the PavoSlims are built like a rental fixture and the pop up soft box can be another timesaver. They have very few moving parts - so they will likely take more abuse.
This 2nd point is very minor - it's super situational. I don't think you're going to run into any significant rigging or durability issues with the Amaran.
3. PavoSlim (C versions) have CRMX built in.
Hope this helps!
Depends on if you see yourself using the light with manual control or needing DMX control. I prefer using CRMX to control my lights so these would beat having to use the Amaran DMX to USB-C adapter with the F22C and a CRMX receiver.
You might've already made a choice but I've had the F22C since launch. It's a great light, but as you pointed out, it does take slightly longer to setup than these single piece panel lights. I've recently got the Lantern accessory which is amazing for creating soft overhead light however, I would only do it on a combo stand as it can get quite weighty and unstable on a c-stand. I would also make sure to factor in the improved mounting bracket they released based on user feedback, as the included one is terrible.
Otherwise I'm also tempted by these Nanlite fixtures for their professional features like CRMX and fast setup time. Thanks for the review guys!
Could you link the boom arm you used that has pan and tilt control from the stand side end of the boom?
In the description!
No gold mount option is annoying with lower wattage fixtures. I get it when you need 26V batteries for the bigger lights, but these lower wattage panel lights are ideal to run off of 14V batteries, and gold mount is so much more secure in awkward rigging.
I can't disagree with you - but V-mount is typically offered because of global compatibility and infrastructure.
Where do you find the gels in the app?
These is a tab for it. But it’s only activated when you have a RGB light with that firmware feature.
Do you think the slim 120 is powerful enough for an interview ( 1 pers ) ?
I believe I proved that, no?
@@vistek nope. I would love to see if it's powerful enough to be used outdoor for example..
Well, define outdoor. Outdoor is a big place with lots going on. So, are you competing with direct sun? Are you in the shade? How close can you place the fixture to your subject? How diffused do you want the lighting to be? Do you have a plan to manage, diffuse, bounce, or block sunlight? Are you lighting one person, or more? Are you lighting a medium close up, a close up, a medium, or a full shot? I can go on and on....
@@vistek I went with the godox f400 bi. Thanks
What is that strobe boom arm called?
Thanks for the comment, here you go!
www.vistek.ca/store/129588/manfrotto-025bs-super-boom-complete-008-steel-stand-black
How's the fan noise?
I never even noticed it.
what you could not afford the d650 boom??
I used what I had access to in order to illustrate a few examples - with the intent of making a review video a little bit more interesting. I have no interest in making an hour long video with every bit of kit available to mankind.
@@vistekdo you hear what you say and the relation to my question? I see you made an hour long build with contraptions and mathellinis and countre arms 😅.... there is a d650 i told you. Did u even watch ur video?
My God, why don't they make these LEDs in sizes suitable for a kino? I can't understand
WHAT? Don’t EVER do that cardellini thing with the c-stand riser. What the actual F there’s no way that’s union compliant, a safety chain ain’t doin shit when that falls apart. What’s crazy is you HAVE A BOOM STAND, so you know they exist. You can’t get a smaller one? instead of Frankensteining FOUR c-stands (or ordering 3 discrete gobo arms and a cardellini, the cost of an entire second c-stand). You can’t even claim price is too high, bc that’s the same cost as a pro kit stand or low boy, plus a boom arm.
You’re either doing it on purpose for engagement like my comment here, OR… idk you’re just not very smart?
sigh, look. That’s SO dangerous, PLEASE don’t EVER rig a light like that on an actual job with other humans.
Thank you for your comment, dymonmein. I think this is a great opportunity to open the discussion a bit further and have you explain a bit more on why you believe it is critically dangerous. I worked as a gaffer for 8 years, in and out of the local union. On smaller non-union productions, it's more than typical to run out of equipment and have to rig elements together. Budgets aren't limitless. The goal in rigging is to understand the vital limits of your rig. Every rig has its limits - even Skyjacks/Condors. I believe that it's generally never ideal (safety wise) for the base stand in this rig to be a c-stand, being the shifting legs offering the greatest area of weakness. However, with a reasonable load - at which I believe the PavoSlim definitely qualifies, and taking the precautions to use a ratchet strap or a magic arm, there is no clear evidence that this system is unsafe in any way. I've never seen this rig setup to be unsafe if done correctly and minding the load that we place on it. The goal of the various rigs in this video was to express the various ways one could rig the PavoSlim. It was not intended in any way to bait people. I still stand by this - but I also open the floor for us to have a reasonable conversation about this outside of vitriol and insults. If you can explain your position further about what specifically you find troubling and where the safety issues are, I'm more than happy to consider these and change my position. - Dale.
@@vistek yes absolutely. Thanks for asking.
So.
That’s true, gaff and grip often need to rig things MacGuyver-style. But safely. For example:
One of the main features of a cardellini is the spinning nut, if something bumps that just a little bit, your whole arm comes down. Also, even if you’ve personally tested and used that specific setup thousands of times, your viewers likely haven’t. It invites injury, and I feel it’s irresponsible. Especially when you could’ve simply shot another take with an actual boom.
Then you say “budgets aren’t limitless” - which I totally get - but that comes back to my point that you had to cannibalize like 4 c-stands, which are now armless (lol “armless c-stands” why does that sound so funny).
So add the price of the actual stands, then subtract their c-stand-ability they’re basically light stands now lol.
Look, I love unique grip rigs just as much as the next guy. Maybe more. I just think you went a little overboard with that setup. It just might have the *weight* capacity, sure. But it’s much more precarious than I think you realize or admit. Moreover, somebody could try something like this after watching your videos, then hurt themselves or get someone fired. They may not know to consider things like the weight of a PavoSlim vs, say, a SkyPanel or something.
Or at least do it in a video where you can give an in-depth explanation, idk.
Thanks for the response and sorry if I came off a bit over-zealous in my first comment :)
🤙🏼
Thanks for the thorough explanation of your point. I would like to agree with two specific points:
1. Yes, the cardelinni can open up. I may not have done it in this video (yes, I'm too lazy to go back and look now that I'm writing this) - but in this set up, I almost always drop the finished clamp to the grip head, effectively locking it (because the tightening arm cannot fit). My error, perhaps is not fully demonstrating this.
2. You are correct in that this information - open to whomever sees it, without thorough explanation can be dangerous in the hands of inexperienced people. I believe there is a very large grey area in which we as professionals and as (dare I say), educators have to work in and make some level of assumptions. Did I make a good call here or a bad one? From your perspective, I made a good one. But I've seen this rig built by seasoned professional key grips, and amateurs alike. In my opinion, it's still safer than connecting two 40" grip arms and gets the fixture out further. Is it possible that someone will try this and then rig a heavy fixture to it? Sure! But I have to make a call on what I believe demonstrates a variety of options for a variety of film-makers, operating on a variety of budgets. Not every geographic area even has access to boom arms, or menace arm kits.
So in conclusion, I'm happy to keep your comment, and this conversation up & to keep it going. The information is here for the viewer to both know that caution must be employed when building any overhead rigs, and they also get that message from another industry professional.
Alongside, they continue to get my explanation and my position which I'm not defending as being 100% correct - though I we do not see eye-to-eye on how extreme it is. Perhaps if we had a chorus of other key grips in the comments telling me to shut it down, I'd be more inclined to re-consider my position. Perhaps this is an opportunity for you to rally your colleagues to do just that. I don't shy away from criticism. Critiques make for better content. In this particular case, I'm expressing that I don't believe what I've demonstrated to be irresponsible, with the exception that perhaps it could have come with some more descriptive caveats. - D