This is the fun stuff! After I wet it out with a brush, I use the roller for the bubbles. This is for hull repair work. And big pieces of fiberglass. For me and my yard buddy, ha ha. 🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊
I was using the roller but then I had to clean the roller. I was able to get the same results from the brush which doesn’t need to be cleaned at the end. I have had a few times where I really did need the roller and so I had to use it and then clean it after.
@RiggingDoctor yeah, I dropped mine in a bucket of acetone. Left it for the next day. Then I just rinse it off with water and soap for me...I can't LOL right now. I have Streptococcus (Strept Throat) it hurts to lol.
You need to pick up one of the finned metal rollers used in glass/resin lamination. These work exceptionally well in wetting out the cloth, working out excessive resin between layers, and working out any air bubbles in the layup. They are inexpensive and if you’re in the Baltimore area: West should have them in stock. I’m located at the very top of the Bay, our West stocks them. If you’re not aware, the tool of choice in cutting or trimming cured laminate is a Fein saw. The original Fein tool is quite expensive, however a few years ago imitations showed up on the market and one of these inexpensive units will be fine for your immediate needs. (Harbor Freight) Look for the semi circular shaped blade with fine teeth resembling a metal hacksaw blade. Cuts cured laminate like butter leaving a smooth cut edge. If you wish a saw which will last the remainder of your life, Fein is the way to go.
I have the roller but find the brush to be just as effective. There are some times when the brush won’t get it done and at that point, the roller comes in to save the day. I don’t have a Fein Saw or even knew what they were called. I knew what they looked like but was just going to go to Home Depot and pick up one of the imitation saws. Now I know which brand to get! I’m going to be installing external chainplates on Wisdom and need to cut a slot in the rub rail for the plate to run through. I have seen these saws but didn’t know their name. Thank you very much!
If you would like to try the Fein saw before making the investment, let me know. I may not be that far away from you. ( Turkey Point Light House/ Elk Neck State Park) The vibrating saw technology may have come from the medical world. The first that I saw it was a power bone saw which would not cut adjacent tissue while in use. Fein, a Swiss company I believe, seemed to have a grip on the market until a few years ago. I expect their patent expired and we then saw inexpensive imitations appear.
@@myrlstone8904correct Fein had a 20+year robust patent that ran out about 10 years ago. Hence all the knock off out there. Our tool of choice for cutting cured fiberglass is a 4” diamond wheel saw. There are knockoffs of these now too. Way faster than the Fein type , and Fein type blade are expensive. Great share experience Cheers Warren
@@Cheers_Warren Agree on your comments. I’d suggest the Fein as a choice if one were buying just one tool. Why, because of the Fein’s versatility. It is slower on some cuts and very slow in wood, but with the wide assortment of blades available, and the ability to make very accurate and controlled plunge, straight, or flush cuts in glass or wood can be a real timesaver.
I used credit cards for getting air out of fiberglass flat surfaces, but it was west system epoxy, for corners I used very firm brush and tap danced on it. Your project looks great.
It’s actually a really fun material to work with. It goes on easily and cures to be really strong. You build it gradually in layers so any mistakes can be rectified on the next layup
Nice work Herby. I think it's s great fun to build stuff from scratch. Breathing the styrene fumes from the polyester resin.... Eh not so much. Is existing gel coat on Windpuff the reason you went with the stinky stuff?
@@RiggingDoctor You got that right! Thank GOD my Irwin was built with poly, originally! There's an Ace Hardware here that's older than me. Well my yard buddy had me take him foe a ride after he saw me in WM. $56 a gallon for Poly prior to covid and chop strain and the good stuff 15?? I forget. Was real cheap to! They gave me the tiny plastic bottle the (oh, I'm on too many meds right now, ya know, hardener, to get it cooking off. I've got so many red underlines, don't care though.
I would glass in some bulkheads, then when all classed up, I would fill with foam Also, looks as if you have not Defined the edges of the mold, hope I’m wrong, or trimming afterwards will take a while, think it will look fantastic when done 😎
The edges are on the mold but I’m going above and beyond because I suck at the edges. The crappy edges go above the mark and then get cut off. It will be a lot of finishing work but I’m excited to get to that stage soon.
Have you considered using roving to add thickness? Layers of mat and cloth then one or more layers of roving, then more mat and cloth. The roving isn't as strong as cloth but adds thickness and just like a cored hull adds strength by adding a space between two layers of cloth.
I did think about it, but the math was easier to use a uniform fiber. I did 1708 for all of it so that I can extrapolate the values of the different layers and figure out how much I need for this. The second reason is I was worried about secondary polymerization where I would have imprint shining through the hull. I know I will be judged harshly if this doesn’t come out looking like peaches in the sunshine on a summer day. Roving isn’t as smooth and might look bad later after I fair and paint. Since we will be painting the hull a color instead of white, the chances of this secondary cure are high so I want to have all my bases covered.
That is the way my 40+ yo boat is made, with lots of layers of mat and glass, layers of mat and roving, more layers of mat and glass to make it less lumpy on the inside. Total is 1/2 thick most places, getting wider up to 2 inch thick near the keel. Gelcoat looks fine and should hold paint just fine. fwiw. @@RiggingDoctor
Wisdom and Windpuff don’t have much on the inside so the inside of the hull is very apparent that it is roving. The bulkheads are also tabbed with roving and nothing over it for a nice textured surface. I just did all my practice with woven cloth, 1708, and CSM. I have never worked with roving, only read about it in books on boat building. When I get to the stringers, knees, and bulkheads, I will be using roving!
Hello doctor! You laminate polyester and fiberglass without using a steel roller. I have produced many many square meters of laminate. Only with hard rolling can you achieve quality laminates. But it is heavy and time-consuming. In my opinion, the main cause of osmotic is due to carelessly rolled laminates. When a 30-40 foot hull is manufactured, the crew should consist of three "rollers" plus one for other work. But it is costly for a manufacturer. Usually there are two in total.
Good point. I have it but I only use it when I can’t get it done with the brush. I stopped using it as often because of the cleanup. The brush gets tossed but the roller needs cleaning.
I agree with you. Plastic easily sticks to rollers. A can of acetone, a brush and a thin screwdriver are good tools and start cleaning before the plastic gets too hard
Can’t agree with not vacuuming out excess dust and detritus from the sanding job. A little fine dust left over won’t matter. But It’s way better that wiping with acetone that should not be done. Cheers Warren
I love it!! I’m using the input from many people and books and building to the highest standard of each piece by each person. The best advice came from Robert D., a naval architect: “build it and attach it, then pull up and down on it with a lot of force to see if it flexes. If it does, keep making it stronger. If it doesn’t, know that anything extra is just extra.” I like the “build it and test it approach”.
Not sure what you’re trying to create. Sorry isn’t the waterline and weight help performance? You’re adding weight but not waterline. Help me understand things I don’t understand. Will this add sail area? Or just all for looks. With respect trying to understand is all.
5 steps read anything provided by the manufacture…. Don’t listen to people who fail to qualify their skills “ this fool “ Don’t remove the dust or wipe down with anything. After all a clean work environment could never help the outcome of your project..
That dust is fiberglass dust which is in 402 from West System. Why take it out when it doesn’t hurt anything? Sounds like extra work for no reason. Reading the instructions is always a good first step, but the instructions don’t show techniques or tricks. I like the interesting spacing that you employ in your sentence construction, makes you see more “ what’s the word “
@@RiggingDoctor Dust is not a quality filler it provides no structural support and in fact my provide impurities and dry spots in the Lamination . So for a a little extra security why leave a potential problem …. Truly the difference between a hack and a pro.
![How Thick is “This Many” Layers of Fiberglass? | Windpuff's Rebuild [S1 Ep 7]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yA6y8UewRh4/mqdefault.jpg)
![How Thick is “This Many” Layers of Fiberglass? | Windpuff's Rebuild [S1 Ep 7]](/img/tr.png)
![Windpuff: Rebuilding Our Next Boat! | Windpuff’s Rebuild [S1 Ep1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fm9ggW-MO4M/mqdefault.jpg)
![Is My Boat Strong Enough to Become Bigger? | Windpuff's Rebuild [S1 Ep 8]](/img/n.gif)
This is the fun stuff! After I wet it out with a brush, I use the roller for the bubbles. This is for hull repair work. And big pieces of fiberglass. For me and my yard buddy, ha ha. 🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊
I was using the roller but then I had to clean the roller. I was able to get the same results from the brush which doesn’t need to be cleaned at the end.
I have had a few times where I really did need the roller and so I had to use it and then clean it after.
@RiggingDoctor yeah, I dropped mine in a bucket of acetone. Left it for the next day. Then I just rinse it off with water and soap for me...I can't LOL right now. I have Streptococcus (Strept Throat) it hurts to lol.
Awesome work fiberglassing, Herby! One step closer to finishing!
Just poppped it out of the mold tonight :)
You need to pick up one of the finned metal rollers used in glass/resin lamination. These work exceptionally well in wetting out the cloth, working out excessive resin between layers, and working out any air bubbles in the layup. They are inexpensive and if you’re in the Baltimore area: West should have them in stock. I’m located at the very top of the Bay, our West stocks them.
If you’re not aware, the tool of choice in cutting or trimming cured laminate is a Fein saw. The original Fein tool is quite expensive, however a few years ago imitations showed up on the market and one of these inexpensive units will be fine for your immediate needs. (Harbor Freight) Look for the semi circular shaped blade with fine teeth resembling a metal hacksaw blade. Cuts cured laminate like butter leaving a smooth cut edge. If you wish a saw which will last the remainder of your life, Fein is the way to go.
I have the roller but find the brush to be just as effective. There are some times when the brush won’t get it done and at that point, the roller comes in to save the day.
I don’t have a Fein Saw or even knew what they were called. I knew what they looked like but was just going to go to Home Depot and pick up one of the imitation saws. Now I know which brand to get!
I’m going to be installing external chainplates on Wisdom and need to cut a slot in the rub rail for the plate to run through. I have seen these saws but didn’t know their name. Thank you very much!
If you would like to try the Fein saw before making the investment, let me know. I may not be that far away from you. ( Turkey Point Light House/ Elk Neck State Park)
The vibrating saw technology may have come from the medical world. The first that I saw it was a power bone saw which would not cut adjacent tissue while in use.
Fein, a Swiss company I believe, seemed to have a grip on the market until a few years ago. I expect their patent expired and we then saw inexpensive imitations appear.
@@myrlstone8904correct Fein had a 20+year robust patent that ran out about 10 years ago. Hence all the knock off out there.
Our tool of choice for cutting cured fiberglass is a 4” diamond wheel saw. There are knockoffs of these now too. Way faster than the Fein type , and Fein type blade are expensive.
Great share experience
Cheers Warren
@@Cheers_Warren
Agree on your comments. I’d suggest the Fein as a choice if one were buying just one tool. Why, because of the Fein’s versatility. It is slower on some cuts and very slow in wood, but with the wide assortment of blades available, and the ability to make very accurate and controlled plunge, straight, or flush cuts in glass or wood can be a real timesaver.
@@myrlstone8904 repair work has defiantly speeded up with the oscillating blade tools. Less new work where you can plan ahead .
👍
awesome stuff. glassing is such as art. takes a tole too but worth it imho
Thankfully it’s a short term commitment. I can’t imagine the toll that these chemicals would take if you worked with them everyday.
Well done Herbie.
Thank you
I used credit cards for getting air out of fiberglass flat surfaces, but it was west system epoxy, for corners I used very firm brush and tap danced on it. Your project looks great.
I have had good results with using the brush, but I also have scrapers (like the credit card trick but bigger) and a finned roller.
DC the music.
👍
Thanks for sharing.
😎
This is making me less scared of Fiberglass.
It’s actually a really fun material to work with. It goes on easily and cures to be really strong. You build it gradually in layers so any mistakes can be rectified on the next layup
Did you use a metal fin roller to squash out the air and ecxess resin between each layer?
Good show!
It’s coming along :)
@@RiggingDoctorIt is a bit tedious and laborious but will be well worth it!
Nice work Herby. I think it's s great fun to build stuff from scratch. Breathing the styrene fumes from the polyester resin.... Eh not so much. Is existing gel coat on Windpuff the reason you went with the stinky stuff?
It was the price. Epoxy is $100/gallon and polyester is $67/gallon
@@RiggingDoctor You got that right! Thank GOD my Irwin was built with poly, originally! There's an Ace Hardware here that's older than me. Well my yard buddy had me take him foe a ride after he saw me in WM. $56 a gallon for Poly prior to covid and chop strain and the good stuff 15?? I forget. Was real cheap to! They gave me the tiny plastic bottle the (oh, I'm on too many meds right now, ya know, hardener, to get it cooking off. I've got so many red underlines, don't care though.
I would glass in some bulkheads, then when all classed up, I would fill with foam Also, looks as if you have not Defined the edges of the mold, hope I’m wrong, or trimming afterwards will take a while, think it will look fantastic when done 😎
The edges are on the mold but I’m going above and beyond because I suck at the edges. The crappy edges go above the mark and then get cut off.
It will be a lot of finishing work but I’m excited to get to that stage soon.
👍👍👍
😎
Have you considered using roving to add thickness? Layers of mat and cloth then one or more layers of roving, then more mat and cloth. The roving isn't as strong as cloth but adds thickness and just like a cored hull adds strength by adding a space between two layers of cloth.
I did think about it, but the math was easier to use a uniform fiber. I did 1708 for all of it so that I can extrapolate the values of the different layers and figure out how much I need for this.
The second reason is I was worried about secondary polymerization where I would have imprint shining through the hull. I know I will be judged harshly if this doesn’t come out looking like peaches in the sunshine on a summer day. Roving isn’t as smooth and might look bad later after I fair and paint.
Since we will be painting the hull a color instead of white, the chances of this secondary cure are high so I want to have all my bases covered.
That is the way my 40+ yo boat is made, with lots of layers of mat and glass, layers of mat and roving, more layers of mat and glass to make it less lumpy on the inside. Total is 1/2 thick most places, getting wider up to 2 inch thick near the keel. Gelcoat looks fine and should hold paint just fine. fwiw. @@RiggingDoctor
Wisdom and Windpuff don’t have much on the inside so the inside of the hull is very apparent that it is roving. The bulkheads are also tabbed with roving and nothing over it for a nice textured surface.
I just did all my practice with woven cloth, 1708, and CSM. I have never worked with roving, only read about it in books on boat building. When I get to the stringers, knees, and bulkheads, I will be using roving!
Hello doctor! You laminate polyester and fiberglass without using a steel roller. I have produced many many square meters of laminate. Only with hard rolling can you achieve quality laminates. But it is heavy and time-consuming. In my opinion, the main cause of osmotic is due to carelessly rolled laminates. When a 30-40 foot hull is manufactured, the crew should consist of three "rollers" plus one for other work. But it is costly for a manufacturer. Usually there are two in total.
Good point. I have it but I only use it when I can’t get it done with the brush. I stopped using it as often because of the cleanup. The brush gets tossed but the roller needs cleaning.
Laziness is not an excuse for bad workmanship though
I agree with you. Plastic easily sticks to rollers. A can of acetone, a brush and a thin screwdriver are good tools and start cleaning before the plastic gets too hard
8 layers of biaxial will get you about 1/4 inch unless its 1708 then you should get 1/2 an inch?
It’s 1708 :)
Is the total boat system less expensive than the west system?
$100/gallon of epoxy
$67/gallon of polyester
@@RiggingDoctor my God...that's WAY cheaper
@@PyeGuySailingif your buying commercial is closer to 5:1 cheaper to buy polyester!
@@Cheers_Warren good to know :)
Can’t agree with not vacuuming out excess dust and detritus from the sanding job. A little fine dust left over won’t matter.
But It’s way better that wiping with acetone that should not be done.
Cheers Warren
You would know! I will be vacuuming from now on.
Man your resemblance to Adam Ragusea is uncanny
I see it!
First rule of Engineering - Nobody knows if it is too strong.
Second Rule - Except another Engineer.
I love it!!
I’m using the input from many people and books and building to the highest standard of each piece by each person.
The best advice came from Robert D., a naval architect: “build it and attach it, then pull up and down on it with a lot of force to see if it flexes. If it does, keep making it stronger. If it doesn’t, know that anything extra is just extra.”
I like the “build it and test it approach”.
NDT 'though!@@RiggingDoctor
I am interested in how you are going to bond this to the stern. Stay tuned.
👍
Why are you using polyester resin and not epoxy resin?
Epoxy costs $100 per gallon, polyester costs $67 per gallon
:)
😎
Not sure what you’re trying to create. Sorry isn’t the waterline and weight help performance? You’re adding weight but not waterline. Help me understand things I don’t understand. Will this add sail area? Or just all for looks. With respect trying to understand is all.
th-cam.com/users/liveaTifeB9EbOI?si=A4GEOs5jm_cSrs8K
5 steps read anything provided by the manufacture…. Don’t listen to people who fail to qualify their skills “ this fool “
Don’t remove the dust or wipe down with anything. After all a clean work environment could never help the outcome of your project..
That dust is fiberglass dust which is in 402 from West System. Why take it out when it doesn’t hurt anything? Sounds like extra work for no reason.
Reading the instructions is always a good first step, but the instructions don’t show techniques or tricks.
I like the interesting spacing that you employ in your sentence construction, makes you see more “ what’s the word “
@@RiggingDoctor
Dust is not a quality filler it provides no structural support and in fact my provide impurities and dry spots in the Lamination . So for a a little extra security why leave a potential problem …. Truly the difference between a hack and a pro.
If you have any control over ads, please lose the trump spots.
I regret to inform you that we don’t choose the ads and they are targeted to you. Everyone sees different ones and they are tailored to you.
You'll get biden ads when they can get him to read a script without screwing it up.