To measure temper to wet process I create a flat disc of the clay, cut out a pie wedge, make a snake out of removed bit and frame the section removed from the disc (like you're adding crust on your pie) and fill the missing space with temper. Quarter wedge removed will give you 20% mixture.
Dry is great if you live in a dry area where you can get dry clay naturally. Living in a wetter environment its easier to start the process wet. Love the comparison.
Believe it or not we have a rainy season here in Arizona and during that time it is hard to get dry clay and humidities are rather high. During this time I just leave my clay sitting out in my studio and let it air dry, it's still less work in my opinion.
Great introduction to dry processing...I've always done wet. I have a large strainer that is made to fit over a sink for washing vegetables, etc., and which has mesh about the size of window screen. I put the clay through that, washing it through as part of the wetting process, then levigate it, and like Micki (see comment below) pour off several times, though I don't use a siphon at the end. The use of the pillowcase is brilliant--I hadn't tried that. I have read that storing native clays wet actually helps to make them more plastic--the organic particles in it start to decay some, and makes it more workable. I wait until mine is a good moisture level for workability, and then make them into softball-sized balls, put them in labeled ziplocks, and store them in a sealed 5-gallon bucket. Then they're ready to pull out whenever I have a chance to work on them. Since I live in NM, a softball sized chunk is about what I can work up without it getting too dry. If I need more, I pull out another ball. Since several of them will fit in one ziplock, over time the slightly drier balls absorb moisture from the slightly wetter ones, and so I wind up with nice consistent moisture levels from one ball to another in the same bag.
I appreciate seeing both methods. I plan on doing a pottery project with my 6 year old son based off of your videos. We're going to attempt the wet processing method first for the fun of getting messy together. I'll take on the hard labor part of adding temper. I just have to remember where I put my sand or I might lose my temper ;)
I really like the dry processing, and went ahead and got a grinder based on your recommendation. Thanks for posting this. However, I've done wet processing, and did it just a little differently. I didn't use the pillow case, although I did run the slurry through a screen. It took a lot longer, but I didn't do as much work. I let the mixed clay settle overnight, poured off some clear water, let it settle again, then used a rubber tube to siphon off most of the rest of the water. At this point you can add the sand, and it mixes in pretty easily. Then I just let the bucket sit outside for a couple more days... or less, depending on how hot and dry it is. I live in AZ too. You DO need to check it to keep it from drying out too much, and if it's pretty wet, I give it a stir. The yield is much higher, but this won't work if you're in a hurry.
Thanks for the rundown Micki, there are a million ways to do it and no "right way". It's whatever works for you. I have another video where I go through the levigation process, that is really the long way.
And I despise the wet method. I just want clay to create already. This is not good for indigenous-inspired artists because I doubt the adobe for pueblos or Mediterranean pottery was made using buckets and sieves and pillowcases for days, nothing would get built.
L9ok forward to your vids every week ...best teacher ever in my opinion...other channels don't explain in depth what is required to make a pot...thank you!
My biggest hurdle with implementing the dry method is that my clay is quite contaminated with organic matter. I can't see how the fibrous roots and soil in various levels of decay can be removed before the grinder stage. Otherwise this vid has helped with me streamlining my wet process as it doesn't generate nearly as much as I would like to play with.
I'm glad it helped you. I have dealt with small amounts of organic matter, but yours sounds like its a whole different level. This method doesn't work for all clays, so maybe it just isn't the method for your clay. Good luck.
I don't think he is describing the 'refining' process of dirt to clay. I was also very confused why he wasn't using dirt, and where he got his supply of already dry and refined clay. Some users here, like myself, have come for bushcraft knowledge on how to make clay from out in the woods.
@@HaloWolf102 I feel like the simple answer to why he's using clay rather than dirt is that Andy's found a good clay source within driving distance as opposed to the bushcraft approach where much of everything is done in situ. Clay does naturally form and collect in the way Andy finds it whereas what I'm dealing with is probably a 60/40 or 80/20 split of "refined" clay and "bush" clay but beggars can't be choosers since I'm walking about 20ft to where I dig clay vs driving 20 mins
@@A.L.75 Simon seems to have a long-spanning youtube history of videos so on first inspection I can't seem to find the video you are meaning. Sifting the clay is definitely the most viable method I have explored but with fine roots and bark fragments that go down to a few millimetres I've only found wet filtration works. It actually results in pretty decent slips but I'm yet to try using them.
@@HaloWolf102 I have the same question. How did he get to the clay he is starting with at the dry process? My clay would be dug from the ground and have dirt and organic matter mixed in too.
Andy I use both methods depending on the clay. If it is wet and has sand and gravel in it I use the wet method. I also weigh the clay before soaking as a reference for the temper. Each method for different materials and locations / weather conditions. Sometimes a batch may take 3 weeks to dry but once you have several batches going that's not a problem. Just keep processing at regular intervals, cheers
Thanks Andy! I imagine it is less stressful in a moist climate like England. Here if I forget to check the clay every 4 hours or so I can end up with an adobe brick.
@@AncientPottery Andy, opposite here, in mid December I had a trough of wet clay freeze solid, didn't seem to harm it but slowed things down for a week or so. Cheers
Hi Andy! The answer to your question why you get a much smaller volume through the wet method may be that you have sieved the clay, whereas there was no sieving in the dry method, so you're using a purified clay with the wet method and have cast out a great deal of it. Great thanks for your videos, they are very inspiring, archaeologists included, and I am aiming to start to make the kind of Prehistoric pottery I usually find in northern Greece (which is also hand made, burnished and open fired), it's just a question of finding the time and I am preparing the kind of tools I might need according to your videos.
A wet density check can show you the difference in weights. But you also have higher compaction on wet processing due to refined particle size. So some density was lost through screening through any type of cloth. Particle size distribution also plays into the size differences. Great video.
I was wondering if you adjust your temper to allow for the natural impurities of dry processing verses the straining out during the wet. In your video you mentioned the same percentage in both processes. After reading the comments, I understand it's all about the clay itself, but noticed you didn't have a different percentage noted. I recently moved to the south and have discovered clay all over my property, in particular some nice veins of bluish white and tan amongst the predominantly red areas along my mineral stream beds. Just for fun I've been wet processing it in various batches and combinations for over a year now. I have a couple of hundred pounds in blocks stored. There are no classes near me that I can find, so I'm very happy I have found these videos! I haven't done a thing with the clay and haven't been able to figure out how to fire it if I did. I've read conflicting information regarding whether or not open fire temperatures get high enough for stoneware or dishware, and that different clays have an optimal firing temperature. How do you test wild clay to know it's range of what you CAN do with it?
Yes, always adjust your temper proportions based on the grit that is naturally in your clay. 20% is just a good overall starting place. Outdoor firings are fine but you cannot reach stoneware temperatures without a kiln or even get hot enough to melt glaze. All you can do in an outdoor firing is earthenware, something like a bisque firing.
Wow! Your channel is a revelation! Thank you for your superb work and good style. Boy, I wish I'd found your videos a long time ago. The dry method makes a world of sense. I've been wet-processing wild clay--and as pleased as I've been with the prettied systems I've created, the process seems cumbersome and wasteful. (Though I have been capturing the waste water and levigating it to render a fine powder.) And all that just to turn around and dry it out entirely for storage!? I can't wait to tackle my next batch with your more elegant method. And save waterplay for pigments. Thanks again for your great videos. I'm soon on my way to watching them all. Aloha!
Exactly, SO wasteful and it's taking FOREVER and there's a mess EVERYWHERE. and it takes the fun and adventure and spirit out of art. The dry method is what I thought up in my head as a means to an end after staring at a bucket of dirty water waiting. But apparently, it makes sense to just...get soil and wet it a bit and lump it and dry it. Idk WHY people do the wet method????
I suppose it depends on where I sourced it from. Most of the clay I find does have a pretty large amount of random crap in it. Mostly organic matter, some rocks, good amount of sand.
Andy, your videos are amazing. The presentation is professional and very on the nose/to the point, and I cannot express how much I appreciate that. The best pottery professor on TH-cam, everyone.
PERFECT TIMING!!! I did JUST get my red clay; Four, 5-gal buckets, and was wondering how to process it. What I have, is sticky-damp. I was looking for sand, and am wondering if regular ol riverbank sand will work, or do I need to find washed sand?
I'm not sure that a drill will have the required torque to turn this. I have a friend who has rigged his up to an electric motor using a belt and that seems to work like a charm.
Hi Andy, I love you channel and your content. I moved to Taos NM three years ago and have gotten really into pottery and my new passion is everything you do in your videos. I have a question about after you have made your clay how do you know at what temp. to fire it at? If you do have a video I have not found it to tell me how to figure it how to find the right temp. If you don't have a video could you please do one on the process of how to determine the correct temp to fire your homemade clay. Thank you for all your wonderful work! David Blackwell
So with an outdoor firing you don’t have to worry because you can’t get it hit enough to melt the clay or at least you would have to work at it real hard. But if you mean what temp to fire in an electric kiln. That video is currently in the planning stage and should be out around November.
Great...(could have a wire to quarting the clay at final stage, help get mor homogenous moister in the claybody). Also I when it s a slip stage, I use to separate a part it for finer engobe, by siphon the top part of the bucket after let seetle a bit, giving really fine slip close to terra siligata...I have a large jar, very thick and porous (add vegetal carbon into the bodyclay), it s a bsorbing very well extra moisture.
Nice to learn about the two methods of processing clay. My take away from this is it personal preference and experience. You make an important point that is useful for storing the clay. Perhaps less space is needed for dry storage. Is there any concerns with mold when storing wet clay? Thanks for sharing.
I often use either or both of those materials. The definition of temper is “non-plastic material” so lots of different materials will work. Try diatomaceous earth for a super fine temper.
I always wet process my recycled clay. When I pour the water off the top, I stop when the fine sediment starts to pour out. I let the bucket rest for a couple of hours and start removing the excess water by floating a sponge on the surface, then pillow case it. It's more work, but when using the recycled clay I am mindful of my efforts and less prone to carelessly waste it a 2nd time. BTW, I prefer adding paper, or cotton instead of sand.
Clay is precious and when you process it yourself you are definitely more mindful of waste. Cotton or paper will make for a porous clay, why would that be desirable?
@@AncientPottery DISCLAIMER: Adding paper to clay wasn't my invention. Many years ago Clay Times magazine did an article on the benefits of "paper clay". At the time I was having a problem with cracks developing in my large slab-formed pieces. I decided to swap the sand for paper and it solved the cracking problem. Later on, I experimented with cotton and it worked as well. The small pieces of cotton or cellulose fibers add strength to the unfired piece as well as evening out the moisture content between 2 pieces of clay at a joint. This is especially helpful when joining large pieces of clay near the point of leather hardness. It's even possible to successfully join 2 pieces of clay with dIfferent moisture levels (within reason). It also decreases the chances of cracks from thermal shock in a pit/raku firing because the ends of the crack will stop when they hit a void left by the paper fiber. Porosity isn't really an issue because it doesn't take much, I only use 4-5 squares of toilet paper, or 2 cotton balls (pureed in a blender). I've never liked sand in a clay body, so the paper trick was a definite win-win for me.
When adding 20% temper to your clay , has anyone ever considered adding even amounts of black iron sand w/regular sand - - or even adding finely ground black sand in red clay slip to enhance the red color in an oxidizing fire ?! I love your channel & i’m interested in your reply ! Thx Andy
I have enjoyed watching your videos. Around my area, is alot of red clay just under the surface of top soil. I thought I might just scoop me up a couple 5 gallon buckets of the stuff using the wet method, and get a 5 gallon bucket of sand off the dirt road and process it similarly and mix it all together in a big pillow case and let it dry a few days and be able to make some pottery. Will that work? Watching this video, using the "dry" method, and just running it all through a grinder would save loads of time and increase any yield plus make it easier to store for longer, not having to worry about it drying out? So now I am confused. Using the dry method, how do you know what the sand to clay mixture is that is already in the clay you dig up if you are grinding it all up together? I thought the wet method was necessary in order to separate the sand and other impurities out of the clay?
Yes that could work John. The thing is that each clay comes with its own grit or different amounts so you need to kind of feel it and try different things to know what it needs. This video might help you th-cam.com/video/l4QjKYP3fGk/w-d-xo.html
I dug a wide shallow hole, added water and some clay-ish soil, and trod around in it for a few minutes. Then I let the water seep into the ground. Two hours later I ended up with a two inch layer of clay on a bed of sand. I scooped it out, but after watching this, I think next time I will let it dry out and then harvest it to process dry.
Hey there loving the videos, I'm in Thailand and it's very muddy here and I suspect that there is a high clay content would I have to dry it then grind it or better to do the wet method
@@AncientPottery Hi Andy!! Thank you so much for replying! My idea really is, do the wet process first to remove impurities such as rocks, organic stuff, etc.. and what remains is pure clay. Then mold it thinly and let it dry completely in the sun. When it’s stone hard, i’ll just break it and finally grind it so I can store it dry. In that way, I’m storing dried powdered pure clay. I would love to hear your thoughts on this
How about a combination of the two methods: Dry grind and sift the clay, add water and mix well, screen out gravel and dirt, let settle, pour off excess water, add the temper, mix well, then bag and dry?
Give it a try. It still sounds like more labor than just dry, but it might work for someone or some specific clay. There are not right or wrong answers, just what works for you and your clay.
Me to so bitty I am trying so hard to change the texture to its, right form! Not to wet or dry! OMG! it's hard BUT I am learning 1st TIME I will be patient learn and I won't give up either! 😂 I am buying my 1st pottery machine today but by hand too. 🤣I think I have come to the right place though he is a very good teacher for us all! 😌
I know you commented this a year ago, but technically the wet process is better for plasticity, and in my mind requires less physical labor especially if you scale up to 100+ lbs, the disadvantages are just the extra time and space required for drying
Thank you. This is great! Do you think a coffee grinder would work as well for the dry process? And in that dry process, I take it you’re all also grinding stones and whatever else is in there?
Yes, my corn grinder eats through small rocks just fine as long as they are not too hard. These just become temper in the clay body. I kind of wonder if a coffee grinder could work at the same volume as a grain mill, maybe though.
Your dry process idea was brilliant! I was looking to make dirt birdhouses and this is the cheapest method Btw, I had tried with a seed press and didn't work, because the tip gets jammed very easily, It's much quicker if you get the corn mill. I got mine for $30 in Mexico
Hi, I’m just looking at getting into pottery, and am lucky enough to live on 50 acres of clay, so would like to process my own. My questions is why do you have to add sand to the clay? Why can’t it be used in its pure form? Thank you
Most clay will crack if used pure, adding temper will help it to withstand drying and firing. This video will help explain it th-cam.com/video/uZZdLLCO8Iw/w-d-xo.html
Hi! Me again. Hey.... I'm a bit bamboozled here. I wet processed most of my clay, but I did the best I could to dry a bucket full & dry processed that. I was able to remove about 95% of the inert material via wet processing, but not so much via dry processing. So my first question is... Does it matter if there's a small amount of inert material in your clay? If so, is there a best way to screen it out (as I have already used the smallest metal screen, that I could find & still have tiny particulates of inert material)? Thank you for your time & videos. I've watched all of them at least 4x's each. =-)
Thanks Jenny! Clay that is suitable for dry processing needs to be at least 70% pure to start with because dry processing does not purify the clay in any way. I will pick out bigger bits of roots and sticks etc while I am grinding clay but I don't obsess over getting every little bit. The smaller pieces of plant matter run through the grinder and become tiny bits of temper. You can run your ground clay through a screen but chances are this is not catching only organic matter but little grains of sand and even bits of clay that didn't get ground well enough, so it is best to not throw that material out but just re-grind it. So if your clay is really chuck full of junk then it probably isn't well suited to dry processing. But if not then don't worry about cleaning all the junk out, just grind it all up and use it.
I've got lots of time and my clay (at the foot of a mountain) has a lot of impurities. I tried grinding and screening but to no usable result. I'm going to start a wet process batch tomorrow weather permitting. I know I got good clay, I just have to float it off of all the rocks.
This might be a dumb question, but if I am collecting wild clay, it should probably be purified, meaning I need to use the wet process regardless, right? When using wild clay, when could you use the dry method because it should always be purified?
I did not remove the impurities. I have to add temper to the clay anyway, and that is essentially just adding an impurity. So instead of removing impurities then adding impurities back into the clay, I just leave them there and grind them up so they can act as naturally occurring temper.
Andy, I really liked the video. I have been extracting clay from the soil in my back yard. I live in a high altitude desert of Southern California. I have found it necessary to sift through the soil to get down to clay and silt (smaller than 50 microns). I find that when I leave the suspended mixture to sit for a while (an hour to a day or two) the shiny silt settles to the very bottom with a layer of various grades of clay on top. Can silt be used as temperature? Is there an easier way to separate silt from clay?
The method you are using is called levigation, I show how to do that in this video th-cam.com/video/aryqJ5I3f2Q/w-d-xo.html As far as I know there is not a better way to remove silt. I think you probably want something larger than silt to use as temper.
Hello Andy! Thank you for your great videos.I already learned a lot from them. I have a question that I can‘t find an answer to: What exatly is „Temper“? Translators don‘t help. I think it is a function the sand has and maybe other materials could have as well, but I‘m not sure. Could you explain it to me please? Thank you and greetings from Germany 🙂
Li Ma thanks for the encouragement. Temper is non-plastic material that is added to clay to open it up allowing it to dry more efficiently, it protects pottery from cracking in the drying and firing process. All clay has some temper added, commercial clay uses grog which is just finely ground fired clay. I use sand because that is what the prehistoric potters in my area used, other materials like grog are superior. Thanks for the reminder to explain terms like temper better, maybe I will make a video explaining what temper is and why it is important.
@@gabrielasantos8289 if not mistaken he before mixed 8 or 9 clay to 2 temper. He talk about it in his other video. Here: th-cam.com/video/UzkZ1EpLXxs/w-d-xo.html
are you processing RAW clay you found outside? or some old clay that's already been processed? why do you add sand doesn't that dilute the end product?
It is wild clay that I collected from nature. All clay must must have non-plastic materials added to promote even drying. Commercial clay uses grog, fired clay that is ground super fine. The temper protects the clay from cracking while drying and from cracking in the firing.
I believe that he starts with soil that has a very high percentage of clay. If you can’t find the right soil, he also has a video on wet processing and levigating.
Thanks for making the vid. When you are doing the wet process, have you considered adding the temper to the filtered clay suspension in the bucket... and then drying it along with the clay? then you don't gotta wedge it in :) Also wondering if you have tried drying the clay sludge on a plaster bat or plaster 'bowl'? the pillowslip looks messy.
Yes, I have considered that. My concern is that the temper will settle to the bottom so I will have to knead that whole lump to make sure it gets evenly distributed in the end. I have dried in a plaster bowl and that works great, I just don't usually have an extremely large one available. Check out how my friend Tony does it th-cam.com/video/UIDGm51q4hc/w-d-xo.html
THANKS FOR YOUR ANSWERS AND FINE INFO. . IF MY CLAY IS VERY WET ,CAME FROM BANK OF POND, AND THE WEATHER ISN'T HELPING DRY IT CAN I JUST ADD MORE TEMPER OR SAND OR IS IT BETTER TO jUST HOLD? TH A KS ROB.
I can't really say, out here in Arizona I never have trouble drying out clay because the air is so dry all the time. Temper might dry it out some but if leaving it uncovered outside does not dry it out maybe you could put it in the oven on low or something.
@@AncientPottery Thanks idaho has been very wet this year but I will give it more time only had. It in pillow case for 3 days and now on drying tables with cotton coverage for two days and it was very wet on pond edge when I found it. Thanks for the help and the information you are very nice to share the years of learning. . Rob
Hi, super interesting video! Do you have another video where you work with this 2 differents clays to see if there is a difference to manipulate it? on firing? and the end?
Somewhere I picked up that clay contains about 30% water....so weigh ..back out 30%...weigh and add the temper...here in La. it takes a good 5 days to dry clay in a pillow case....that grinder you have is wonderful...
Can't be sure what my favourite part of this caper is... Is it the clay rustling? Is it the processing? Or is it the sculpting... Can't decide. It's all good 😀👍
Oh for measuring the amount of temper in the wet process? Well I think it would not work so great because the clay is wet (that weight is mostly water), and the temper is dry. But maybe, give it a try and let me know what you find.
Funny you should ask, that is the subject of next weeks video which I just finished today. Temper is non-plastic material that is added to prevent cracking. Usually it is sand.
I live in an area that is very sandy (coastal) and found clay deposits. Wouldn't wet be better for this to make sure the clay is separated from the sand and other junk?
@@AncientPottery is there a way to use the coil test to guage how much non-expansive material to add back in after processing? I don't want to much after processing to make it usable. This second batch coiled without cracking right out of the ground! I didn't even have to use my water bottle to wet it.
I understand the wet and dry process but wouldn't you still have to do the wet process anyway to get the clay separate from other impurities. Especially when it's harvested clad from a river bank etc..
I guess it depends on how much junk is in your clay. My thought is that we remove sand and silt from our clay and then add it back in with temper, why not leave it in place and save yourself the effort?
perkkd the answer is a bit too complicated for a comment, I probably should make a video about this. In the meantime check out this video th-cam.com/video/YId_uswkMBI/w-d-xo.html
Hi! Thanks so much for all the helpful videos! I’ve been trying to learn how to make primitive pottery and this video was super great. I’m questioning purification of the clay thru the dry method. Based on your other comments the clay doesn’t need to be purified from dirt or sand depending on the amount of impurities?
What about major impurities, like organics, grass, and sand? The wet process removes most of these (organics float, sand falls to the bottom), but grinding the clay would mix some of this into the final clay. In any case, your channel is awesome. Really appreciate all of the effort you put into your videos. Note: I read more comments after posting this, so I get the jist of it. The dry process really only works well if your clay isn't too contaminated. But if it has more than 30-40% sand/dirt/debris, you would probably need to screen it with a finer screen, or use the wet process.
Yes, that is right. But the other point I want to make is that if your clay has like 30% junk then maybe you should find a better clay to start with. My point is that digging and processing clay is a time consuming process and in my opinion, not the fun part. So make it as easy and low input as possible so you can get to the fun part of making pottery sooner.
based on the information on internet, usually ~30% (+-5%) of the clay mix is water, so when adding temper maybe we could extract that weight from the total to calculate it? Example: 1000g of wet clay should be ~300g water and 700g "dry" clay, therefore 25% of 700g equals 175g of temper? (or 163g - 188g range with the +-5% water difference) - as was said, it's not rocket science but it could be better than eyeballing it, right? Maybe next time you are mixing dry clay you could measure weight before and after to check the water percentage...
Sand helps the clay to dry without cracking and also to withstand thermal shock. See this video for a full explanation th-cam.com/video/uZZdLLCO8Iw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for all your help I make indean artafscts and want to ma k e some pots and pipes , I just harvested some native red and may have a sorse with white clay ,how do I store 10# of wet clay for long term use? Thanks Andy I Am Idaho Rob
Thanks Rob. Try storing it in a 5 gallon paint bucket with a tight fitting lid. Although I have to tell you I am just guessing since I have never tried storing wet clay for longer than a couple of months
Is it possible to do both wet and dry processing of the clay? I am processing wet to clean it as much as possible. I will be using the clay i make for yaki-ire=焼き入れclay tempering on my tanto=短刀, 'short sword. The mixture is clay+charcoal+sand or ground stone.
@@AncientPottery thank you, also do you need a supply of clay? I was gonna start working with it but It's a little too much I have other projects I'm working on but I have a lot of it & I'm in Tucson, its red clay straight from the ground
@@AncientPottery Thanks for the information.. If we can store wet processed tempered clay then adding temper with wet process clay should be a easy process. I mean we can add temper to clay before we keep the clay for drying (Or after 30% dried clay) because it will be easy to add temper while clay is still wet as mixing temper to semi dried clay (mixing temper to ready to use clay) is difficulty or require more labour while wedging ?? Is it possible ? Please give me your suggestion on this..
My question is if the wet process is how you separate the Clay from all the unusable stuff. Then how is it you are able to separate everything from the dry clay so that all you need to do is grind it up to a silty consistency without any apparent processing other than screening it?
What about levitation? What if your only sources of clay is full of bio mass or organic materials? Don't you have to levitate it to get that stuff out?
Yes, if your clay is full of impurities then levigation is an option. My advice would be to find a better clay though because levigation is very time intensive. Here is a video I made showing the levigation process I use th-cam.com/video/aryqJ5I3f2Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi Andy! If I were to attempt to process my own clay,is there a good way to tell if it needs to have temper added? Or would it be more of a trial and error thing with firing before deciding if I would need to add sand? Is there such thing as too much temper?
All clay needs temper although some may have enough naturally. Make a test tile and see how it dries, then make a small pinch pot and see how it dries, it is trial and error. Too much temper and your clay will become unusable, lose plasticity and be overly gritty and crumbly, there is a balance needed.
Andy Ward's Ancient Pottery Thank you! I processed my own clay this past Monday and its currently hanging to dry! Cant wait to experiment this weekend!
Today I'm rewatching your videos while I process some Santa Cruz River clay from Tucson. I'm using your suggested method to sieve out coarse material, the Home Depot paint strainer and then levigation to remove the suspended clay. I use this local clay in my Cone 10 ash glazes. Thank you so much Andy for the great advice and instruction!
Sand is temper, it opens up the clay body and allows it to dry more evenly, thereby preventing clays and breakage during drying and firing. All potters clay has some type of temper, be it grog, sand, volcanic ash or some naturally occurring non-plastic material.
To measure temper to wet process I create a flat disc of the clay, cut out a pie wedge, make a snake out of removed bit and frame the section removed from the disc (like you're adding crust on your pie) and fill the missing space with temper. Quarter wedge removed will give you 20% mixture.
That's a new idea to me, thanks for sharing.
Dry is great if you live in a dry area where you can get dry clay naturally. Living in a wetter environment its easier to start the process wet. Love the comparison.
Believe it or not we have a rainy season here in Arizona and during that time it is hard to get dry clay and humidities are rather high. During this time I just leave my clay sitting out in my studio and let it air dry, it's still less work in my opinion.
I wish there were more people like you on Earth.
That's very nice. Thanks!
The difference in storing and the final difference in mass makes a huge difference in my mind. Thanks for taking us through the steps so clearly.
Keith Lightminder thanks Keith.
Great introduction to dry processing...I've always done wet. I have a large strainer that is made to fit over a sink for washing vegetables, etc., and which has mesh about the size of window screen. I put the clay through that, washing it through as part of the wetting process, then levigate it, and like Micki (see comment below) pour off several times, though I don't use a siphon at the end. The use of the pillowcase is brilliant--I hadn't tried that.
I have read that storing native clays wet actually helps to make them more plastic--the organic particles in it start to decay some, and makes it more workable. I wait until mine is a good moisture level for workability, and then make them into softball-sized balls, put them in labeled ziplocks, and store them in a sealed 5-gallon bucket. Then they're ready to pull out whenever I have a chance to work on them. Since I live in NM, a softball sized chunk is about what I can work up without it getting too dry. If I need more, I pull out another ball. Since several of them will fit in one ziplock, over time the slightly drier balls absorb moisture from the slightly wetter ones, and so I wind up with nice consistent moisture levels from one ball to another in the same bag.
Thanks Leslie, good description of your process.
I appreciate seeing both methods. I plan on doing a pottery project with my 6 year old son based off of your videos. We're going to attempt the wet processing method first for the fun of getting messy together. I'll take on the hard labor part of adding temper. I just have to remember where I put my sand or I might lose my temper ;)
LOL, let me know how your project comes out
I really like the dry processing, and went ahead and got a grinder based on your recommendation. Thanks for posting this. However, I've done wet processing, and did it just a little differently. I didn't use the pillow case, although I did run the slurry through a screen. It took a lot longer, but I didn't do as much work. I let the mixed clay settle overnight, poured off some clear water, let it settle again, then used a rubber tube to siphon off most of the rest of the water. At this point you can add the sand, and it mixes in pretty easily. Then I just let the bucket sit outside for a couple more days... or less, depending on how hot and dry it is. I live in AZ too. You DO need to check it to keep it from drying out too much, and if it's pretty wet, I give it a stir. The yield is much higher, but this won't work if you're in a hurry.
Thanks for the rundown Micki, there are a million ways to do it and no "right way". It's whatever works for you. I have another video where I go through the levigation process, that is really the long way.
And I despise the wet method. I just want clay to create already. This is not good for indigenous-inspired artists because I doubt the adobe for pueblos or Mediterranean pottery was made using buckets and sieves and pillowcases for days, nothing would get built.
I'm curious why not add the sand while the clay is still in suspension so it mixes easier?
You could do that, but my concern would be that the sand would settle to the bottom right away and need to be kneaded through anyway.
i don t think you could accurately measure 20% sand not knowing how much clay you'd end up with. Plus you'd loose it if you used the filter.
L9ok forward to your vids every week ...best teacher ever in my opinion...other channels don't explain in depth what is required to make a pot...thank you!
Thanks, I try
👍
My biggest hurdle with implementing the dry method is that my clay is quite contaminated with organic matter. I can't see how the fibrous roots and soil in various levels of decay can be removed before the grinder stage. Otherwise this vid has helped with me streamlining my wet process as it doesn't generate nearly as much as I would like to play with.
I'm glad it helped you. I have dealt with small amounts of organic matter, but yours sounds like its a whole different level. This method doesn't work for all clays, so maybe it just isn't the method for your clay. Good luck.
I don't think he is describing the 'refining' process of dirt to clay. I was also very confused why he wasn't using dirt, and where he got his supply of already dry and refined clay.
Some users here, like myself, have come for bushcraft knowledge on how to make clay from out in the woods.
@@HaloWolf102 I feel like the simple answer to why he's using clay rather than dirt is that Andy's found a good clay source within driving distance as opposed to the bushcraft approach where much of everything is done in situ. Clay does naturally form and collect in the way Andy finds it whereas what I'm dealing with is probably a 60/40 or 80/20 split of "refined" clay and "bush" clay but beggars can't be choosers since I'm walking about 20ft to where I dig clay vs driving 20 mins
@@A.L.75 Simon seems to have a long-spanning youtube history of videos so on first inspection I can't seem to find the video you are meaning. Sifting the clay is definitely the most viable method I have explored but with fine roots and bark fragments that go down to a few millimetres I've only found wet filtration works. It actually results in pretty decent slips but I'm yet to try using them.
@@HaloWolf102 I have the same question. How did he get to the clay he is starting with at the dry process? My clay would be dug from the ground and have dirt and organic matter mixed in too.
Andy I use both methods depending on the clay. If it is wet and has sand and gravel in it I use the wet method. I also weigh the clay before soaking as a reference for the temper. Each method for different materials and locations / weather conditions. Sometimes a batch may take 3 weeks to dry but once you have several batches going that's not a problem. Just keep processing at regular intervals, cheers
Thanks Andy! I imagine it is less stressful in a moist climate like England. Here if I forget to check the clay every 4 hours or so I can end up with an adobe brick.
@@AncientPottery Andy, opposite here, in mid December I had a trough of wet clay freeze solid, didn't seem to harm it but slowed things down for a week or so. Cheers
Andy , what's temper?
Non-plastic material added to the clay body to open it up and promote even drying. All pottery clays have some form of temper in them.
@@AncientPottery Thank you Andy
Definitely time to buy a grinder! Thanks for a great video.
You're welcome. A grinder will make it faster for sure.
I prefer the wet method so I can control the quality and type of aggregate in the mix and when to add it.
Hi Andy! The answer to your question why you get a much smaller volume through the wet method may be that you have sieved the clay, whereas there was no sieving in the dry method, so you're using a purified clay with the wet method and have cast out a great deal of it. Great thanks for your videos, they are very inspiring, archaeologists included, and I am aiming to start to make the kind of Prehistoric pottery I usually find in northern Greece (which is also hand made, burnished and open fired), it's just a question of finding the time and I am preparing the kind of tools I might need according to your videos.
Awesome, that Greek pottery sounds cool. You are welcome, I am glad to help.
A wet density check can show you the difference in weights. But you also have higher compaction on wet processing due to refined particle size. So some density was lost through screening through any type of cloth. Particle size distribution also plays into the size differences. Great video.
Andy, thanks for all the demonstrations, this will save me alot of time . great video ""
kaolinwasher you’re welcome.
I was wondering if you adjust your temper to allow for the natural impurities of dry processing verses the straining out during the wet. In your video you mentioned the same percentage in both processes.
After reading the comments, I understand it's all about the clay itself, but noticed you didn't have a different percentage noted.
I recently moved to the south and have discovered clay all over my property, in particular some nice veins of bluish white and tan amongst the predominantly red areas along my mineral stream beds. Just for fun I've been wet processing it in various batches and combinations for over a year now. I have a couple of hundred pounds in blocks stored. There are no classes near me that I can find, so I'm very happy I have found these videos! I haven't done a thing with the clay and haven't been able to figure out how to fire it if I did. I've read conflicting information regarding whether or not open fire temperatures get high enough for stoneware or dishware, and that different clays have an optimal firing temperature. How do you test wild clay to know it's range of what you CAN do with it?
Yes, always adjust your temper proportions based on the grit that is naturally in your clay. 20% is just a good overall starting place. Outdoor firings are fine but you cannot reach stoneware temperatures without a kiln or even get hot enough to melt glaze. All you can do in an outdoor firing is earthenware, something like a bisque firing.
Wow! Your channel is a revelation! Thank you for your superb work and good style. Boy, I wish I'd found your videos a long time ago.
The dry method makes a world of sense. I've been wet-processing wild clay--and as pleased as I've been with the prettied systems I've created, the process seems cumbersome and wasteful. (Though I have been capturing the waste water and levigating it to render a fine powder.) And all that just to turn around and dry it out entirely for storage!?
I can't wait to tackle my next batch with your more elegant method. And save waterplay for pigments.
Thanks again for your great videos. I'm soon on my way to watching them all. Aloha!
Thanks a lot! I hope it helps you.
Exactly, SO wasteful and it's taking FOREVER and there's a mess EVERYWHERE. and it takes the fun and adventure and spirit out of art. The dry method is what I thought up in my head as a means to an end after staring at a bucket of dirty water waiting. But apparently, it makes sense to just...get soil and wet it a bit and lump it and dry it. Idk WHY people do the wet method????
Excellent documentary!
Many thanks!
I suppose it depends on where I sourced it from. Most of the clay I find does have a pretty large amount of random crap in it. Mostly organic matter, some rocks, good amount of sand.
Yes, the clay itself makes a huge difference in how you will choose to process it.
Andy, your videos are amazing.
The presentation is professional and very on the nose/to the point, and I cannot express how much I appreciate that.
The best pottery professor on TH-cam, everyone.
Wow, thank you!
You are amazing.
High five my friend! I just love listening to how he tells us how to do it properly! I think he is our full time pottery teacher now!🥰😁👊🤛🤜👀✍️
That's really insightful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
PERFECT TIMING!!!
I did JUST get my red clay; Four, 5-gal buckets, and was wondering how to process it. What I have, is sticky-damp.
I was looking for sand, and am wondering if regular ol riverbank sand will work, or do I need to find washed sand?
Riverbank sand should work.
@@AncientPottery forgive me please for asking; why do we add sand, again.
This is amazing information. Thank you! You won a sub.
Awesome, thank you!
Would you be able to remove the handle on your grinder and use an electric drill to do the turning of the grinder?
I'm not sure that a drill will have the required torque to turn this. I have a friend who has rigged his up to an electric motor using a belt and that seems to work like a charm.
Hi Andy, I love you channel and your content. I moved to Taos NM three years ago and have gotten really into pottery and my new passion is everything you do in your videos. I have a question about after you have made your clay how do you know at what temp. to fire it at? If you do have a video I have not found it to tell me how to figure it how to find the right temp. If you don't have a video could you please do one on the process of how to determine the correct temp to fire your homemade clay. Thank you for all your wonderful work!
David Blackwell
So with an outdoor firing you don’t have to worry because you can’t get it hit enough to melt the clay or at least you would have to work at it real hard. But if you mean what temp to fire in an electric kiln. That video is currently in the planning stage and should be out around November.
Great...(could have a wire to quarting the clay at final stage, help get mor homogenous moister in the claybody). Also I when it s a slip stage, I use to separate a part it for finer engobe, by siphon the top part of the bucket after let seetle a bit, giving really fine slip close to terra siligata...I have a large jar, very thick and porous (add vegetal carbon into the bodyclay), it s a bsorbing very well extra moisture.
Great tips, thanks!
Nice to learn about the two methods of processing clay. My take away from this is it personal preference and experience. You make an important point that is useful for storing the clay. Perhaps less space is needed for dry storage. Is there any concerns with mold when storing wet clay? Thanks for sharing.
Is that sand or the grounded bits of old fired clay?
I often use either or both of those materials. The definition of temper is “non-plastic material” so lots of different materials will work. Try diatomaceous earth for a super fine temper.
@@AncientPottery thank you for your informative reply.
I always wet process my recycled clay. When I pour the water off the top, I stop when the fine sediment starts to pour out. I let the bucket rest for a couple of hours and start removing the excess water by floating a sponge on the surface, then pillow case it. It's more work, but when using the recycled clay I am mindful of my efforts and less prone to carelessly waste it a 2nd time. BTW, I prefer adding paper, or cotton instead of sand.
Clay is precious and when you process it yourself you are definitely more mindful of waste. Cotton or paper will make for a porous clay, why would that be desirable?
@@AncientPottery DISCLAIMER: Adding paper to clay wasn't my invention. Many years ago Clay Times magazine did an article on the benefits of "paper clay". At the time I was having a problem with cracks developing in my large slab-formed pieces. I decided to swap the sand for paper and it solved the cracking problem. Later on, I experimented with cotton and it worked as well. The small pieces of cotton or cellulose fibers add strength to the unfired piece as well as evening out the moisture content between 2 pieces of clay at a joint. This is especially helpful when joining large pieces of clay near the point of leather hardness. It's even possible to successfully join 2 pieces of clay with dIfferent moisture levels (within reason). It also decreases the chances of cracks from thermal shock in a pit/raku firing because the ends of the crack will stop when they hit a void left by the paper fiber. Porosity isn't really an issue because it doesn't take much, I only use 4-5 squares of toilet paper, or 2 cotton balls (pureed in a blender). I've never liked sand in a clay body, so the paper trick was a definite win-win for me.
When adding 20% temper to your clay , has anyone ever considered adding even amounts of black iron sand w/regular sand - - or even adding finely ground black sand in red clay slip to enhance the red color in an oxidizing fire ?! I love your channel & i’m interested in your reply ! Thx Andy
This channel is so great
Thanks
I have enjoyed watching your videos. Around my area, is alot of red clay just under the surface of top soil. I thought I might just scoop me up a couple 5 gallon buckets of the stuff using the wet method, and get a 5 gallon bucket of sand off the dirt road and process it similarly and mix it all together in a big pillow case and let it dry a few days and be able to make some pottery. Will that work?
Watching this video, using the "dry" method, and just running it all through a grinder would save loads of time and increase any yield plus make it easier to store for longer, not having to worry about it drying out?
So now I am confused. Using the dry method, how do you know what the sand to clay mixture is that is already in the clay you dig up if you are grinding it all up together? I thought the wet method was necessary in order to separate the sand and other impurities out of the clay?
I read the answers in the comments after posting.. But great content in your videos. Thank you for your time and efforts in making them.
Yes that could work John. The thing is that each clay comes with its own grit or different amounts so you need to kind of feel it and try different things to know what it needs. This video might help you th-cam.com/video/l4QjKYP3fGk/w-d-xo.html
You are welcome.
How do you go about getting the gravel and rocks out before dry processing clay?
I grind them right up and they become temper which I have to add anyway.
@@AncientPottery Wow, that's a pretty impressive grinder.
I dug a wide shallow hole, added water and some clay-ish soil, and trod around in it for a few minutes. Then I let the water seep into the ground. Two hours later I ended up with a two inch layer of clay on a bed of sand. I scooped it out, but after watching this, I think next time I will let it dry out and then harvest it to process dry.
That sounds like an interesting method. Do what works for you.
Great videos! Thanks. What type of sand do you use for tempering? Is this what they call "engine sand" for top-dressing putting greens?
I guess you could use putting green sand. I live in Arizona so I can collect sand from just about any wash (dry stream) near my house.
Hey there loving the videos, I'm in Thailand and it's very muddy here and I suspect that there is a high clay content would I have to dry it then grind it or better to do the wet method
Find a process that works for you. That being said, in a damp climate it could still be done by first allowing the clay to air dry under cover.
Hi Andy! Would you consider making a Dirt to Clay Video with Dry Method? That would help us beginners so much. Dry Method is so perfect storage wise.
How about this one? Is this what you are looking for? th-cam.com/video/u6RlHSG4cY4/w-d-xo.html If not please elaborate on what else you need.
@@AncientPottery Hi Andy!! Thank you so much for replying! My idea really is, do the wet process first to remove impurities such as rocks, organic stuff, etc.. and what remains is pure clay. Then mold it thinly and let it dry completely in the sun. When it’s stone hard, i’ll just break it and finally grind it so I can store it dry. In that way, I’m storing dried powdered pure clay. I would love to hear your thoughts on this
How about a combination of the two methods: Dry grind and sift the clay, add water and mix well, screen out gravel and dirt, let settle, pour off excess water, add the temper, mix well, then bag and dry?
Give it a try. It still sounds like more labor than just dry, but it might work for someone or some specific clay. There are not right or wrong answers, just what works for you and your clay.
Sadly I'm stuck with the wet process. My clay has a lot of fine mica in it and it seriously impacts the workability.
Yes, many times your process is dictated by the clay quality.
Me to so bitty I am trying so hard to change the texture to its, right form! Not to wet or dry! OMG! it's hard BUT I am learning 1st TIME I will be patient learn and I won't give up either! 😂 I am buying my 1st pottery machine today but by hand too. 🤣I think I have come to the right place though he is a very good teacher for us all! 😌
I know you commented this a year ago, but technically the wet process is better for plasticity, and in my mind requires less physical labor especially if you scale up to 100+ lbs, the disadvantages are just the extra time and space required for drying
Thank you. This is great! Do you think a coffee grinder would work as well for the dry process? And in that dry process, I take it you’re all also grinding stones and whatever else is in there?
Yes, my corn grinder eats through small rocks just fine as long as they are not too hard. These just become temper in the clay body. I kind of wonder if a coffee grinder could work at the same volume as a grain mill, maybe though.
Our land has so much red clay on it and there is a lot of mica. Would the mica count as temper? Thank you. These videos are so helpful!
Yes, mica can act as temper
Your dry process idea was brilliant! I was looking to make dirt birdhouses and this is the cheapest method
Btw, I had tried with a seed press and didn't work, because the tip gets jammed very easily, It's much quicker if you get the corn mill. I got mine for $30 in Mexico
Thanks, good luck with the birdhouses.
Hi Andy, Is there a way to dry process clay when significant sands and gravels need to be separated out?
Thank-you
No, Dry processing only works well when the clay is relatively pure, if you need to remove a lot of junk then wet processing is the way to go.
thank you
You are welcome.
@@AncientPottery I am learning a lot from you
Hi, I’m just looking at getting into pottery, and am lucky enough to live on 50 acres of clay, so would like to process my own. My questions is why do you have to add sand to the clay? Why can’t it be used in its pure form?
Thank you
Most clay will crack if used pure, adding temper will help it to withstand drying and firing. This video will help explain it th-cam.com/video/uZZdLLCO8Iw/w-d-xo.html
@@AncientPottery oh ok! Thank you so much! 😊
Iam learning! I Live in Sahaurita Az south of Tucson and theres lots of clay here!
I am in Tucson. Enjoy!
Hi! Me again. Hey.... I'm a bit bamboozled here. I wet processed most of my clay, but I did the best I could to dry a bucket full & dry processed that.
I was able to remove about 95% of the inert material via wet processing, but not so much via dry processing.
So my first question is... Does it matter if there's a small amount of inert material in your clay?
If so, is there a best way to screen it out (as I have already used the smallest metal screen, that I could find & still have tiny particulates of inert material)?
Thank you for your time & videos. I've watched all of them at least 4x's each. =-)
Thanks Jenny! Clay that is suitable for dry processing needs to be at least 70% pure to start with because dry processing does not purify the clay in any way. I will pick out bigger bits of roots and sticks etc while I am grinding clay but I don't obsess over getting every little bit. The smaller pieces of plant matter run through the grinder and become tiny bits of temper. You can run your ground clay through a screen but chances are this is not catching only organic matter but little grains of sand and even bits of clay that didn't get ground well enough, so it is best to not throw that material out but just re-grind it. So if your clay is really chuck full of junk then it probably isn't well suited to dry processing. But if not then don't worry about cleaning all the junk out, just grind it all up and use it.
@@AncientPottery Thanks. You're the best.
You should test the drying shrinkage. I bet grinding the dry clay gave you a smaller partical size and there for more surface area
Perhaps. That would be an interesting experiment.
I've got lots of time and my clay (at the foot of a mountain) has a lot of impurities. I tried grinding and screening but to no usable result. I'm going to start a wet process batch tomorrow weather permitting. I know I got good clay, I just have to float it off of all the rocks.
Sounds great!
This might be a dumb question, but if I am collecting wild clay, it should probably be purified, meaning I need to use the wet process regardless, right? When using wild clay, when could you use the dry method because it should always be purified?
Hi Andy
If i want to use the clay on a pottery wheel, should i still add sand? :-)
If you will be firing outdoors definitely. If you are firing in an electric kiln then maybe not.
Okay, Thanks!
How did you get the impurities out with the dry method?
I did not remove the impurities. I have to add temper to the clay anyway, and that is essentially just adding an impurity. So instead of removing impurities then adding impurities back into the clay, I just leave them there and grind them up so they can act as naturally occurring temper.
ANDY ,, JUST GOT MY GRINDER AND IT WORKS GREAT SO MUCH EASIER THAN WET ,THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIP. ROB
That's great.
Andy, I really liked the video. I have been extracting clay from the soil in my back yard. I live in a high altitude desert of Southern California. I have found it necessary to sift through the soil to get down to clay and silt (smaller than 50 microns). I find that when I leave the suspended mixture to sit for a while (an hour to a day or two) the shiny silt settles to the very bottom with a layer of various grades of clay on top. Can silt be used as temperature? Is there an easier way to separate silt from clay?
The method you are using is called levigation, I show how to do that in this video th-cam.com/video/aryqJ5I3f2Q/w-d-xo.html
As far as I know there is not a better way to remove silt. I think you probably want something larger than silt to use as temper.
Hello Andy!
Thank you for your great videos.I already learned a lot from them. I have a question that I can‘t find an answer to:
What exatly is „Temper“? Translators don‘t help. I think it is a function the sand has and maybe other materials could have as well, but I‘m not sure. Could you explain it to me please?
Thank you and greetings from Germany 🙂
Li Ma thanks for the encouragement. Temper is non-plastic material that is added to clay to open it up allowing it to dry more efficiently, it protects pottery from cracking in the drying and firing process. All clay has some temper added, commercial clay uses grog which is just finely ground fired clay. I use sand because that is what the prehistoric potters in my area used, other materials like grog are superior. Thanks for the reminder to explain terms like temper better, maybe I will make a video explaining what temper is and why it is important.
Thank you Andy,you made my day!🙂
@@AncientPottery How much grog should I add if I have it available? same proportion to sand?
TIA!
@@gabrielasantos8289 if not mistaken he before mixed 8 or 9 clay to 2 temper. He talk about it in his other video. Here: th-cam.com/video/UzkZ1EpLXxs/w-d-xo.html
are you processing RAW clay you found outside? or some old clay that's already been processed? why do you add sand doesn't that dilute the end product?
It is wild clay that I collected from nature. All clay must must have non-plastic materials added to promote even drying. Commercial clay uses grog, fired clay that is ground super fine. The temper protects the clay from cracking while drying and from cracking in the firing.
What type of sand do you use?
Sand I collect from a local stream.
Nice idea
Thanks a lot
How does soil and other debris get separated in the dry process?
It gets pulverized and becomes temper which is needed anyway.
I believe that he starts with soil that has a very high percentage of clay. If you can’t find the right soil, he also has a video on wet processing and levigating.
Thanks for making the vid. When you are doing the wet process, have you considered adding the temper to the filtered clay suspension in the bucket... and then drying it along with the clay? then you don't gotta wedge it in :) Also wondering if you have tried drying the clay sludge on a plaster bat or plaster 'bowl'? the pillowslip looks messy.
Yes, I have considered that. My concern is that the temper will settle to the bottom so I will have to knead that whole lump to make sure it gets evenly distributed in the end. I have dried in a plaster bowl and that works great, I just don't usually have an extremely large one available. Check out how my friend Tony does it th-cam.com/video/UIDGm51q4hc/w-d-xo.html
THANKS FOR YOUR ANSWERS AND FINE INFO.
. IF MY CLAY IS VERY WET ,CAME FROM BANK OF POND, AND THE WEATHER ISN'T HELPING DRY IT CAN I JUST ADD MORE TEMPER OR SAND OR IS IT BETTER TO jUST HOLD? TH A KS ROB.
I can't really say, out here in Arizona I never have trouble drying out clay because the air is so dry all the time. Temper might dry it out some but if leaving it uncovered outside does not dry it out maybe you could put it in the oven on low or something.
@@AncientPottery Thanks idaho has been very wet this year but I will give it more time only had. It in pillow case for 3 days and now on drying tables with cotton coverage for two days and it was very wet on pond edge when I found it. Thanks for the help and the information you are very nice to share the years of learning. . Rob
Hi, super interesting video! Do you have another video where you work with this 2 differents clays to see if there is a difference to manipulate it? on firing? and the end?
No, I have not made a video like that, but that is a great idea. I will try to make one like that soon, thanks.
I can't wait to see it!
Somewhere I picked up that clay contains about 30% water....so weigh ..back out 30%...weigh and add the temper...here in La. it takes a good 5 days to dry clay in a pillow case....that grinder you have is wonderful...
Allen Bealle great tip. Thanks.
Is silt able to be used as temper? I don’t know what it is used for ❤
I believe so, although I have no personal experience with that.
Can't be sure what my favourite part of this caper is... Is it the clay rustling? Is it the processing? Or is it the sculpting... Can't decide. It's all good 😀👍
Thanks
also why not mix in the temper while the wet clay is still in solution? Mix it up then let it dry?
I believe the temper would quickly settle to the bottom so you would need to wedge it through either way.
Can you weigh your clay and temper?
Oh for measuring the amount of temper in the wet process? Well I think it would not work so great because the clay is wet (that weight is mostly water), and the temper is dry. But maybe, give it a try and let me know what you find.
what is temper?
Funny you should ask, that is the subject of next weeks video which I just finished today. Temper is non-plastic material that is added to prevent cracking. Usually it is sand.
I live in an area that is very sandy (coastal) and found clay deposits. Wouldn't wet be better for this to make sure the clay is separated from the sand and other junk?
It depends on how much junk is in your clay. Try both and see what works best for you
@@AncientPottery is there a way to use the coil test to guage how much non-expansive material to add back in after processing? I don't want to much after processing to make it usable. This second batch coiled without cracking right out of the ground! I didn't even have to use my water bottle to wet it.
i like that shirt! where'd ya get it?
Amazon amzn.to/3wht2RX (affiliate link)
I understand the wet and dry process but wouldn't you still have to do the wet process anyway to get the clay separate from other impurities. Especially when it's harvested clad from a river bank etc..
I guess it depends on how much junk is in your clay. My thought is that we remove sand and silt from our clay and then add it back in with temper, why not leave it in place and save yourself the effort?
Perfect bro keep going
Thank you, I will
How do you determine if you have clay in soil and how do you extract the clay from soil, so that you can try to make your own clay body?
perkkd the answer is a bit too complicated for a comment, I probably should make a video about this. In the meantime check out this video th-cam.com/video/YId_uswkMBI/w-d-xo.html
Hi! Thanks so much for all the helpful videos! I’ve been trying to learn how to make primitive pottery and this video was super great. I’m questioning purification of the clay thru the dry method. Based on your other comments the clay doesn’t need to be purified from dirt or sand depending on the amount of impurities?
Muy buen video gracias
De nada
Is there much difference with the quality of the 2 clay lumps you have?
Not much difference.
Can you tell me what kind of sand?
Pretty much just ordinary sand, playground sand, creek sand, construction sand.
What about major impurities, like organics, grass, and sand? The wet process removes most of these (organics float, sand falls to the bottom), but grinding the clay would mix some of this into the final clay. In any case, your channel is awesome. Really appreciate all of the effort you put into your videos.
Note: I read more comments after posting this, so I get the jist of it. The dry process really only works well if your clay isn't too contaminated. But if it has more than 30-40% sand/dirt/debris, you would probably need to screen it with a finer screen, or use the wet process.
Yes, that is right. But the other point I want to make is that if your clay has like 30% junk then maybe you should find a better clay to start with. My point is that digging and processing clay is a time consuming process and in my opinion, not the fun part. So make it as easy and low input as possible so you can get to the fun part of making pottery sooner.
if you grind clay wont you be grinding dirt an debres in with it?
Yes, these impurities act as temper which is needed.
based on the information on internet, usually ~30% (+-5%) of the clay mix is water, so when adding temper maybe we could extract that weight from the total to calculate it?
Example: 1000g of wet clay should be ~300g water and 700g "dry" clay, therefore 25% of 700g equals 175g of temper? (or 163g - 188g range with the +-5% water difference)
- as was said, it's not rocket science but it could be better than eyeballing it, right?
Maybe next time you are mixing dry clay you could measure weight before and after to check the water percentage...
@@Daab11091982 it does not need the level of precision you are seeking. But if it makes you happy, do it.
I like this type of pottery. Start from the beginning.
It’s all about the process, thanks for watching.
What kind of sand and why?
Sand helps the clay to dry without cracking and also to withstand thermal shock. See this video for a full explanation th-cam.com/video/uZZdLLCO8Iw/w-d-xo.html
@@AncientPottery
Thanks
Thank you for all your help I make indean artafscts and want to ma k e some pots and pipes , I just harvested some native red and may have a sorse with white clay ,how do I store 10# of wet clay for long term use? Thanks Andy I Am Idaho Rob
Thanks Rob. Try storing it in a 5 gallon paint bucket with a tight fitting lid. Although I have to tell you I am just guessing since I have never tried storing wet clay for longer than a couple of months
Is it possible to do both wet and dry processing of the clay? I am processing wet to clean it as much as possible. I will be using the clay i make for yaki-ire=焼き入れclay tempering on my tanto=短刀, 'short sword. The mixture is clay+charcoal+sand or ground stone.
Sure but that would take even longer and more work
@AncientPottery ok, thanks. I appreciate it. You have been a great help. I will continue the wet process you have taught me much godbless and be safe.
Great video, really helped me out 👍
Glad to hear it!
@@AncientPottery thank you, also do you need a supply of clay? I was gonna start working with it but It's a little too much I have other projects I'm working on but I have a lot of it & I'm in Tucson, its red clay straight from the ground
@@xsaguaroxcc7155 No, I'm good for clay, thanks.
@@AncientPottery yeah i just seen your new video haha anyways, good luck on your clay endeavors! Thanks again
Where can i buy dry sifted clay?
I have no idea. It seems clay is usually sold already wet. I process my own clay from nature so that’s a little different.
Lol thanks I think I'll use the dry method. Keep up the good work, found this very informative.
Great! Good luck with your clay.
Hey..Can we store wet processed tempered clay for longer duration ?
Sure if it is wrapped up good. But some clay gets smelly after awhile.
@@AncientPottery Thanks for the information.. If we can store wet processed tempered clay then adding temper with wet process clay should be a easy process. I mean we can add temper to clay before we keep the clay for drying (Or after 30% dried clay) because it will be easy to add temper while clay is still wet as mixing temper to semi dried clay (mixing temper to ready to use clay) is difficulty or require more labour while wedging ??
Is it possible ? Please give me your suggestion on this..
Can you please reply and give your valuable suggestion on above issue ??
This will help me a lot..😊😊
for adding sand to the wet clay why not go by weight?
it took me 2 seconds after i posted to realize there's water weight.
It can be done, I like the simplicity of using ratios.
why do we need temper? cant we just use pure clay?
No, pure clay will crack when it dries. Temper allows the water to get out of the clay.
@@AncientPottery if I'm using white clay what s the best Tempar to use so I don't change colour too much
@@AncientPottery thanks
My question is if the wet process is how you separate the Clay from all the unusable stuff. Then how is it you are able to separate everything from the dry clay so that all you need to do is grind it up to a silty consistency without any apparent processing other than screening it?
What about levitation? What if your only sources of clay is full of bio mass or organic materials? Don't you have to levitate it to get that stuff out?
Yes, if your clay is full of impurities then levigation is an option. My advice would be to find a better clay though because levigation is very time intensive. Here is a video I made showing the levigation process I use th-cam.com/video/aryqJ5I3f2Q/w-d-xo.html
Hi Andy! If I were to attempt to process my own clay,is there a good way to tell if it needs to have temper added? Or would it be more of a trial and error thing with firing before deciding if I would need to add sand?
Is there such thing as too much temper?
All clay needs temper although some may have enough naturally. Make a test tile and see how it dries, then make a small pinch pot and see how it dries, it is trial and error. Too much temper and your clay will become unusable, lose plasticity and be overly gritty and crumbly, there is a balance needed.
Andy Ward's Ancient Pottery Thank you! I processed my own clay this past Monday and its currently hanging to dry! Cant wait to experiment this weekend!
whats tempar?
Sand, ground up rock or fired ceramics, volcanic ash, diatomaceous earth, etc.
Love your vedios .is air dry clay already processed?
I think air dry clay is something entirely different. I have never used it so can't say much about it.
How do you start the dry processing method if the clay you have found is damp?
Let it sit out and dry
@@AncientPottery So fully dry, then crush / grind it, right?
@@TribalGlobe yes
@@AncientPottery Gracias :)
@@AncientPottery Your videos are very helpful and professional. Do you have experience in television or something?
Today I'm rewatching your videos while I process some Santa Cruz River clay from Tucson. I'm using your suggested method to sieve out coarse material, the Home Depot paint strainer and then levigation to remove the suspended clay. I use this local clay in my Cone 10 ash glazes. Thank you so much Andy for the great advice and instruction!
Thanks Paula, I'm glad to help. I can't wait to see what you make.
Why are you adding the sand?
Pros/cons of adding sand
Sand is temper, it opens up the clay body and allows it to dry more evenly, thereby preventing clays and breakage during drying and firing. All potters clay has some type of temper, be it grog, sand, volcanic ash or some naturally occurring non-plastic material.
Check out this article for a more in-depth explanation of temper. ancientpottery.how/how-to-process-clay/
I live in finland and its dry, cold, and windy here.
And yet, then ancient Finns made pottery in that climate. Have you heard about their asbestos pottery? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos-ceramic
Interesting if you start with play did you know is clay