Yeah that setup definitely needs to be updated with an in-line connection either before or after the back-flow preventer. You are not supposed to put compressed air through the test valves, that has an extremely high chance to premenantly damage the back-flow preventer.
It's probably important to note that your PSI need to be set low--60 or less--since you may damage the backflow preventer and/or flexible underground tubing if you're using it. Thanks for your video!
You forgot to mention that the valve for the water supply that you shut off in the basement needs to be turned off also outside the one under the syphon bell before you hook your compressor hose on to proceed
I am sorry to say, that you are literally creating a cross connection when you blow through the test valves. The backflow preventer is redundant, it has a check valve and a popit valve and should be installed 12 in above your highest outlet. When introducing the air through a test valve you are eliminating the Total protection of the device. There must be a tee installed after the backflow device to introduce air into the irrigation system, with the outlet valve of the backflow preventer shut off. While the procedure used in this video may be effective, it is improper methodology. Also in the state of Indiana, according to the Cross connection control rule 327 IAC 8-10, it is illegal. Just saying.
As long as you keep your PSI under 60 or so, you shouldn't have a problem. WIth that said, 60 PSI may not allow your poppet to seal effectively, thus will leak air out when clearing out the lines. I glued a poppet to a bonnet and it seals fine and lets me winterize effectively. 5 years now with no issues.
@stevenbohne8887 Since you seem to understand the internals of the PVB, I have a question for you. How come in the video the air doesn't leak out from under the bell? I tried this today (I used the upper test port) and found that the air leaked under the bell. I imagine that if I glue the poppet to the bonnet as you describe then it would create a seal but that would ruin the PVB.
This is HORRIBLE ADVICE !!! Sprinklers should not be blown out through the BFP !!! Should NOT be blown out with a garage or home owner size compressor. They do not provide enough CFM (amount) of air... usually way to high of pressure !! Should not Ever use more than 80 PSI. Doing so will damge pipes and valves !! Need to have at least a 1/2" size hose to carry enough CFM to properly get ALL water out of a system. 4 min may not be long enough to clear all the water from the lines. THIS IS ALL VERY BAD INFORMATION OF A BLOW OUT... Do what he has said to turn off water. Drain it inside your house and open drain in valve box or you may have auto drain in there. OPEN BOTH the peices he said to hook air up too. But dont hook up air and do what he has said. You will damage your system. Just drain it all and call a true professional that uses professional size equipment that produces adequit air pressure and VOLUME. If not call a professional in the spring for repair that is much more costly than a blow out done correctly !! For you Keller Williams... shame.on you for this horrible information and leading unsuspecting people to damage their systems !!!
Just bought a house and am confused… the previous owner told me to hook up the air to the exact same valve you did on the backflow preventer, but the Febco instructions (and other commenters) say this can damage the backflow preventer. Hmmm
Yes, you CAN break the backflow preventer and it's WAY safer for the company to tell YOU not to do it and leave it to a professional or install another fitting onto the copper to do the blowout. Like Damian, this is how I was taught too, just have to keep the PSI low. Probably do each section 3-4 times under 60ish psi. If you break the backflow preventer, it's about $100 and a couple hours of work if you know how to sweat copper.
I'm fairly sure that blowing air through the PBV is harming the seals in the valve. I always blow out through a port AFTER the valve! Just saying. To each his own.
Where exactly would that be? If you refer to the video there isn't a port after the backflow preventer in his setup. Also if the PSI aren't insanely high it should be fine.
@@FightingSportsMedia Air running through a pipe creates friction. Friction creates heat. If you don’t believe me, try grabbing the tube between your compressor motor and your compressor tank after it’s been running for a while.
@@richardradcliffe6047 Which is why you do it for less than 2 minutes at a time. Even if you attach at an additional port still need to limit time. Friction heat will also damage the underground lines and sprinkler heads. If you are using a small compressor, no way are you producing enough friction heat to damage anything.
Yeah that setup definitely needs to be updated with an in-line connection either before or after the back-flow preventer. You are not supposed to put compressed air through the test valves, that has an extremely high chance to premenantly damage the back-flow preventer.
It's probably important to note that your PSI need to be set low--60 or less--since you may damage the backflow preventer and/or flexible underground tubing if you're using it. Thanks for your video!
Thanks, your video cleared some of my doubts
You forgot to mention that the valve for the water supply that you shut off in the basement needs to be turned off also outside the one under the syphon bell before you hook your compressor hose on to proceed
I moved to Colorado 20 years ago, and this is how I was taught and haven't had a problem, however, I'm always open for better ways to do it!
I am sorry to say, that you are literally creating a cross connection when you blow through the test valves.
The backflow preventer is redundant, it has a check valve and a popit valve and should be installed 12 in above your highest outlet. When introducing the air through a test valve you are eliminating the Total protection of the device.
There must be a tee installed after the backflow device to introduce air into the irrigation system, with the outlet valve of the backflow preventer shut off.
While the procedure used in this video may be effective, it is improper methodology. Also in the state of Indiana, according to the Cross connection control rule 327 IAC 8-10, it is illegal.
Just saying.
Just watched a vid that I think said the same thing. Don't connect air compressor to pressure vacuum breaker.
Well... it's worked for me without damage.
@@TheDylan6908 I hear the same thing but most ppl are going thru the breaker, must not be a huge risk after all
@@kkevinj1 IDK but I'm a by the book kinda person so I generally play it safe with things like that .
@@TheDylan6908 When I set mine up for winter im playing it safe too
I thought you wasn't supposed to blowout through the test cogs? I have the same back flow preventor
As long as you keep your PSI under 60 or so, you shouldn't have a problem. WIth that said, 60 PSI may not allow your poppet to seal effectively, thus will leak air out when clearing out the lines. I glued a poppet to a bonnet and it seals fine and lets me winterize effectively. 5 years now with no issues.
@stevenbohne8887 Since you seem to understand the internals of the PVB, I have a question for you. How come in the video the air doesn't leak out from under the bell? I tried this today (I used the upper test port) and found that the air leaked under the bell. I imagine that if I glue the poppet to the bonnet as you describe then it would create a seal but that would ruin the PVB.
@@stevenbohne8887see above
This is HORRIBLE ADVICE !!! Sprinklers should not be blown out through the BFP !!! Should NOT be blown out with a garage or home owner size compressor. They do not provide enough CFM (amount) of air... usually way to high of pressure !! Should not Ever use more than 80 PSI. Doing so will damge pipes and valves !! Need to have at least a 1/2" size hose to carry enough CFM to properly get ALL water out of a system. 4 min may not be long enough to clear all the water from the lines. THIS IS ALL VERY BAD INFORMATION OF A BLOW OUT... Do what he has said to turn off water. Drain it inside your house and open drain in valve box or you may have auto drain in there. OPEN BOTH the peices he said to hook air up too. But dont hook up air and do what he has said. You will damage your system. Just drain it all and call a true professional that uses professional size equipment that produces adequit air pressure and VOLUME. If not call a professional in the spring for repair that is much more costly than a blow out done correctly !! For you Keller Williams... shame.on you for this horrible information and leading unsuspecting people to damage their systems !!!
Just bought a house and am confused… the previous owner told me to hook up the air to the exact same valve you did on the backflow preventer, but the Febco instructions (and other commenters) say this can damage the backflow preventer. Hmmm
Yes, you CAN break the backflow preventer and it's WAY safer for the company to tell YOU not to do it and leave it to a professional or install another fitting onto the copper to do the blowout. Like Damian, this is how I was taught too, just have to keep the PSI low. Probably do each section 3-4 times under 60ish psi. If you break the backflow preventer, it's about $100 and a couple hours of work if you know how to sweat copper.
How many gallons is your compressor?
Hey Sorry! I have a 10 gallon compressor.
Should NOT be running through the backflow preventer EVER
I've done it this way for years and never damaged a backflow.
T
I'm fairly sure that blowing air through the PBV is harming the seals in the valve. I always blow out through a port AFTER the valve! Just saying. To each his own.
Where exactly would that be? If you refer to the video there isn't a port after the backflow preventer in his setup. Also if the PSI aren't insanely high it should be fine.
@@cosmocracy2000 if their isn't one you should plumb one. It isn't just psi, but also the heat generated by the air that will damage your backflow
@@markkendall331 the air isnt very hot at all
@@FightingSportsMedia Air running through a pipe creates friction. Friction creates heat. If you don’t believe me, try grabbing the tube between your compressor motor and your compressor tank after it’s been running for a while.
@@richardradcliffe6047 Which is why you do it for less than 2 minutes at a time. Even if you attach at an additional port still need to limit time. Friction heat will also damage the underground lines and sprinkler heads. If you are using a small compressor, no way are you producing enough friction heat to damage anything.
this is not how to do this. i sell and teach plumbers all day how to do this wright and this is how you damage you backflow