Happy days, guys. We're told the Wright $4k one can be found under Proto USA for a mere $2,900 amzn.to/4bS2vwu Can't afford NOT to buy it :P If this comment gets a single like from anyone we'll buy more torque multipliers, these were stupid fun
Mammoth makes a nice one I paid 300 for it. It's a 12 :1 torque output. Maxed out at 2k torque. It saved us thousands of dollars when I pulled it out to turn a rod inside a press.
@@mond000 I've got bad news. There's only 1 kind of oil filter for your car's engine, so if it's a different size than last time, it's not the right oil filter now, or it wasn't earlier.
@@shawn576 Yes, if Jiffy does it right, not only will you have to replace the drain plug, you will also have to rethread the oil pan. And, even if they stop the impact wrench short, you will still have a plug that's very hard to remove & the threads will be stretched.
So that chain is an incredibly dangerous spring, and if you guys do this again, please, use a solid, noncompressable stop for holding the reaction arm. As a Millwright in a steel mill, when torque like this goes wrong with sprung restraints, people can die. I have seen stuff go straight through cinderblock walls. Be safe.
LOL! Don't ever watch someone pull a frame then, that's way more sketchy with a chain and spring action. Especially with modern high strength steel frame members.
@@brianwelch1579 Like vehicle frame straightening? Naw, that's light work stuff. The real fear for me is playing with the 6000 BAR hydraulic jacks. That stuff you quadruple check and still have a few sweats. And everyone jumps when it finally gets things moving!
they were lifting the unit off the ground so that was no good then ripping it off the base. the chain to the body was the best choice however they should have got gr100 chain of adequate size . that stuff looked like gr30
@@ronblack7870 I disagree. I understand your point of view, as this seems like the easiest and cheapest solution, but I disagree that it is that safe. If they want to play with the big torque, I think they need to make sure they have the equipment to deal with it properly. For example, our work benches where we routinely torque bolts to 1900 lb/ft, are all 1" thick steel plate tops that have anchor points in them to mount framework and can be used to brace a reaction arm against. Connection points rated for many tons of load and build up almost no sprung energy. It's just not worth the risk of playing with it if you don't need too, and chain is for sure the lowest on the list to try and contain an unknown force. A link goes and it all goes launching. Better slings, be it nylon or steel, at least there is feedback. But better to have the ability to fold the tool in half knowing that you are safe. That all from a simple bench that will last forever. Easy call in my book.
That thing is ugly even by cheapo Chinese tool standards. Looks like something an archaeologist would dig up from the bronze age - except the quality of the alloy used would probably be better if it was from the bronze age.
I've done multiple Honda Pilot crank bolts... they are always impressive. I just use a 3/4 old craftsman breaker bar braced against the frame and use the starter to crank over the engine with the spark cables removed. I'm forever grateful to the guys on the Piloteers forums for teaching me that one!
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I rented a 3/4" impact to get the one on my Honda Civic back in the day (after failing to crack it with a 1/2" ratchet and long pipe extension).
A couple of us broke 2 $13k torque multipliers one night trying to remove die bed bolts. They wouldn't let us cut the bolts, cuz they were special order, until they saw the 2 broken multipliers. lol
@@ENEN-tz6eg 4 upper die bed bolts in a ajax 2500ton press that hold the bed to the machine. I can't remember what size they were exactly but i want to say they were like 3 3/4 inch bolts.
What would happen if you connected the output of one multiplier to the input to the next? Chain all the multipliers and you'll be able to twist spacetime.
Snap on actually recommends doing this and I'm sure it will worth with the neiko as well. It's convenient that the output of the smaller matches the input of the bigger. Snap on has three sizes. You can't get more over all output than the biggest it just makes it much easier.
The $4k Wright multiplier is really handy to use with a pneumatic nutrunner. Ours is a 25:1 ratio, and with an Ingersoll Rand 9RSQ83 nutrunner, it's 300 rpm & 82 inch-pounds input, 12 rpm & 170 ft-lbs out. Moves stuff quickly.
We use generally hydraulic or electric versions of these in structural steel to do final torque, after snugging large or particularly important bolts we will go either 1/3rd or 1/2 a turn (depending on bolt length) to reach final torque, this is what we do on roadway gantries, large road signs, refineries, tunnels, mining equipment, etc. I worked at an ethylene-oxide plant one time using a hydraulic torque multiplier to break loose the bolts holding the catalytic chamber together. Huge bolts, about 70 or 90 or so of them and they had to be cracked loose 8 at a time - so hydraulics running to 8 reaction arms. It was a major job, took days for a dozen guys just to do that.
As a semi truck driver i can say these things are priceless. Recently i swap to 3/4 makita impact but i still carry one of these in the cab. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting to loosen the nuts of the wheel on the side of the highway. Love this channel
I work in a hydraulic cylinder manufacturing plant, we use electric motor driven torque multipliers for the piston nuts, crazy how tight they can get accurately
We have a Proto J6252 torque multiplier at work that says it goes up to 8,000 ft-lbs, lets just say we have shattered 2" B7 grade studs with it when they just didn't want to come free. It has 1 1/2" input and output drive squares.
We used one to test slip torque on drivetrain flanges for muscle cars. We often go well above 2000 lb-ft. We can then take the torque required to slip the joint and the tension created by bolts holding the flanges together to calculate to coefficient of friction of the flanges.
I wish I knew where to find one… But I know what you need. Years ago I was working on a tractor with my dad, and we were unable to get the rear wheel off because our household air compressor wasn’t up to the task of keeping the impact going Long enough to break those big giant Lugnuts loose. My dad worked at a factory and he knew the shop foreman. He was able to borrow this wrench from the machine shop, that was basically like a 6 foot long ratchet with a 1 inch drive socket, and in the box it also had a 4 to1 multiplier box, that you could put on it to amplify the torque. It was a beast. The funniest thing was even with all that one of the Lugnuts was so stuck. We put a 6 foot cheater bar on the handle of that giant ratchet, trying to get it off. So just imagine someone hopping up and down on a 12 foot lever with a 4:1 gearbox… I really thought we were going to snap the stud off, but it finally broke loose with some help from the torch heating it.
So i am a maintenance tech at an aluminum extrusion factory and we use a B-Rad 5,000 for almost everything that asks for over 1,000 lbs. love the channel btw!
It's definitely a farmer's tool. If it breaks, oh well get another at that price. For how often you need it, Chinesium gears are fine. Still, that Neiko sounds tempting. Easier on the wrists for sure.
I love the ratcheting one, you can torque up the bolt real high and walk away. It will let you know when it breaks loose. You can also apply a little heat or vibration while it's torqued.
I've got a 3/4" drive SnapOn X4 (1000 ftIbs) that I purchased second hand for £150 of my old foreman when he retired. Definitely one of my favourite tools and it's amazing how much you use them once you've got one. Main thing is being able to torque to 500ftib plus without having to lug a 6ft long torque wrench around.
Hytorc has a 1 1/2 drive hydraulic torque I use at work ever once in a awhile to adjust 3 - 4 inch bolts that adjust the height of hydraulic press knives. Our toque spec for those bolts is 10,000 ft lbs. We use the same tool to loosen those bolts with added heat
I recently purchased a multiplier from princess auto in Canada. Some items from princess auto are less than great (garbage), but I was willing to risk the money. It's a 4:1 ratio and was on sale for 50% off. So, a $400 item for $200. Now what surprised me was a handwritten calibration certificate that came with it. The multiplier was rated at 1100ft pounds, but the certificate of test was up to almost 1400 ft pounds. I highly doubt that I'll need to torque anything that high, but it was more for removing larger or stuck bolts/nuts. it looks very similar to the Neiko and are similar in specs, however, mine did not have a case for it, but it did come with a calibration certificate. Excellent test video.
The same company that made one of the torque multiplier, made my air con unit (homcom) have had it for 3 yrs working non stop as a dehumidifier and all summer time as an ac unit and hasn't missed a beat yet
Regarding the square drive issues, just get a high grade large bolt and nut, thread them together then lay some weld so they're now one big long hex, put a 1 inch drive socket on the input, put the giant hex in the socket, put a socket on the hex sticking out, and put a tool on the socket. I made an adapter to let me use the 1/2" end of an extension on an impact gun to zoot Caravan/T&C spare tires up and down inside the car instead of using the included tools very slowly.
I work on US Army CH-47. We use something like that Gador torque multiplier to torque the "Jesus" nut that holds the fwd and aft rotor head to the fwd and aft transmissions. I think we torque the nuts to something like 5,000 ft-lbs. It's always a little sketchy. This is an awesome video. Love your content.
I purchased a pepper grinder style about a year ago. The first thing I did before using it was removing the guts clean and greased the gears. I have a 5 foot brush hog and the blade bolt requires 350ft-lbs. The highest I could get my torque wrench by myself without the multiplier was 275 ft-lbs. I was afraid the blade would work the bolt loose that's why I bought the multiplier. I bought a Neiko upon arrival the socket square was broke and Neiko to send me a new face plate, nope, returned the tool to Amazon. Bought the cheap pepper grinder style. Only use twice a year to sharpen brush hog blades. Thanks for the video.
This makes sense, nieko is occasional use, snap on is general purpose semi truck , agricultural one. Wright is for heavy industrial equipment like d11 cats or structural needs.
We use Sweeney high capacity aerospace torque multipliers at work. I can't find how much they cost but I'm guessing its not cheap. As far as I know the biggest goes up to 30,000 ft-lbs.
That would be neat to see. It's pretty rare I encounter a fastener I can't use the torch on when the ugga dugga and the breaker bar won't move it, but having a fairly cheap tool in the bottom drawer for just such an emergency would be smart (especially if you know which one isnt total garbage)
I've run ground screws in with peppergrinders, sustained torque over 1000ftlb for over 20 revolutions, over 24 groundscrews. Used amilwaukee b4-32 to drive it and an 8'pole as the reaction arm. Failure mode has been snapping the reaction arm off
Needed to drive some 3/4"x12" Titen concrete screws that our impact couldn't handle and ended up getting one of the cheapo "peppermill" units. Worked like a champ and ran those screws in with a 1/2" drill powering it.
Efficiency loss with old grease is a real thing. I have an old MAC 4:1 with 1" drive output that I can barely turn. I have no imeadiete use for it, but it needs to be cleaned out of the old dried and sticky grease for sure.
I used to use multipliers to torque crane and bucket truck mount bolts. We sent both the torque wrench and multiplier out every year to be calibrated, as far as the multiplier, we gave them a list of actual torque values we used and they did something like what you did. They sent a list of values to multiply by when using the combo we sent them.
I've got the same one as that last one, but a different brand (either Enerpak or Proto, I can't remember, but they're all the same). If you do some diligent shopping, you can find used ones (relatively) pretty cheaply. I snagged mine for less than $400.
I use one of these things for one job. Torquing the crab nuts to 1800 ft lbs on an EMD. My boss is too cheap to get us a hydraulic torque wrench so we use a 600 ft lb torque wrench and a multiplier.
Im glad you cleaned and repacked the one. Thats something i do with all my ratchets no matter the brand. Even from new. Its amazing what a difference it makes in having them cleaned and greased inside.
5:00 i noticed a mistake , with your seup. the chain is pressing against the nut, the tighter it got the tighter thechain is pressed into the nut making it become more difficult faster than it should have. i think
I have plenty of 4 point sockets, I use them for pipe plugs. Some of the really old ones from the 1800s are completely non standard so I have many sizes including custom CNC machined ones.
It seems like you could make a really high quality one of these for pretty cheap. The only reason they’re so expensive is because they’re sold as “specialty tools” to industrial shops and so they justify insane prices.
We use a Sweeney Power wrench to torque propellers. Much like a torque wrench they have to be tested we are then provided with a chart showing its ratio at specific input torques. For us it's around 200 input for approximately 2200 output. Cool test
Lookup (Superbolt). We used these (Supernut version) on 4 inch studs. Hand screw the two piece nut on, then stretch the nut height with included high tensile 5/8 size fastners.
I've had the homcom for years now ($49 in Dec 2015 according to Amazon). It gets used very rarely, maybe once or twice a year, but it's worth way more than the $49 when I do need it.
Id probably say these are designed as alternatives to power shop tools where power shop tools aren't available or space is limited. Wheel change on the road, or that suspension fastener between the frame & body. I like the idea, I can think of several occasions where these could be used. Great video.
0:42 It is done all the time in fastener laboratories, they're just not posting about it on the internet. We're using strain gauged fasteners not these micky mouse skidmore units.
I've used a Neiko similar to that one to break free a rusted rear pinion nut off of a Chevy 2500 that the owner had brought in because they forgot to refill diff fluid before driving 80mi on the highway, the pinion nut was almost welded on since the bearing had welded itself together. I felt like an absolute god when I broke it free.
I used to work at a place that used that style for precision applications. Every one had a calibration sheet for input and output torque. Find your desired torque on the chart and cross for your required input. They're accurate but need charted for high precision use.
Snap-On is the one I would go for. Years ago a shop I worked in had a different type of Snap-On. It was like 4 ratchets stacked on each other. Largest ratchet closest to the work moving to smaller ones away. Shop owned as I am sure the cost was in the stratosphere.
I have a good quality 1" air impact wrench that would not budge a rusted on semi truck lug nuts. I bought the cheap hand crank torque multiplier and unbelievably it had no problem removing every lug nut, and quietly.
I have one of the pepper grinder ones, and it takes over tourqed rusted semi lugs off, run by a makita XPH14, or XPH07, using a 12 sided socket (1-1/8" I think) to turn the input. It's a beast! Not pretty, and with all the sockets and just stacked up, it's heavy... but man it beats jumping on a 4ft cheater pipe handle....
Watching you break that loose with one hand was more than a sight to see, I know mathematically speaking it was always gonna turn out like that, but Watching it was like magic, imagine never needing to torch a bolt, you could lift almost an entire truck with the strength it puts out
Awesome! We have the larger version of the neiko for breaking apart hydraulic cylinders mostly and we've really abused it. Absolutely fantastic tool for 250 bucks. I would love to have that 4k one though. What a world of difference that would make.
I think it’s nice that you have a Skidmore but for these experiments maybe you could buy a 10 foot I-beam and just use the definition of torque: weld a large nut onto one end of your I-beam weld a hook onto the other end, figure out the weight of the I-beam, and then add some more weights to the far end…
So , you're onto the "burn that thing to the ground" method too (if it's 5000lbs worth of stuck) , also , that's Uncle Bernie's 1/2 Craftsman breaker , thanks for all your work !
The biggest torque multiplier I ever have seen was at my first job, a overhaul shop for jet engines. The torque multiplier used for removing and installing the fan blade hub retaining nut on the P&W JT9D engines was installed by overhead winch, it must have weighed at least 150kg. I have no idea of the maximum torque produced though…
I bought the starter model of these torque multipliers two months ago. It did the job, however I'm aware that you have to be careful when using these because you can break them as they aren't that well made. They are chunky so you might be tempted to think that they are invulnerable, they aren't. Treat them with care and they should last. Make sure the lube is good.
I own the same exact one as that $60 you showed, I got it on sale a little less, I've used it to remove 22.5" wheels off commercial trucks and buses, it gives you a work out but I prefer it to a breaker bar. Thank you for these, I love your tests. I left mine outside in the box, it wound up FULL of water and you know those gears rusted like crazy but I've used it a couple of times since then but its been a couple of months now I wonder if it is rusted stuck lol.
I have one of those el cheapo or what you call peppergrinder style ones. It might be 10 years old, used and abused, wobbly as anything but it still works fine. I find a 27mm 12 point socket fits it just fine, milwaukee m18 drill in low gear driving it and it'll shift pretty much any wheelbolt I throw it at. Pop all the bolts and the 1/2 inch m18 impact does the rest.
Thanks for answering a question I didn´t knew I´d have: can I uggabugga those? Should I? -No. …Thanks, Merry Christmas! I liked the narrator. Sounds way more calm than the other guy. A taste comparison: this voice is like butter, going down tasty and smooth. The other seems more like hot pepper moonshine, not too pleasant but it delivers the message.
IDEA. You recently showed how no-seize can affect torque readings. I watch a lot of SMA and Eric is always faking torque wrench noises. He's learned to tighten by feel most of the time because he knows how far off torque can be for a variety of situations. I would love to see this tested. Mock up a bunch of scenarios of rusted, oily, wet bolts and nuts and show how different torque varies in these scenarios when trying to use a torque wrench. And, maybe have your staff tighten by feel to see how closely they can approximate the required torque. Better yet, go to SMA and do this with Eric. I would love to see that kind of collaboration.
We have a red "pepper grinder", at the shop and even though it doesn't work on every "stuck" lug nut, it gets the job done when it fits! I forgot what brand it is but, I'm rather positive that it's on the cheap side.
We use the Wright 18.5:1 multipler at CAT to torque those 836 axle mounting bolts at 1800 ft lbs. They are the best, a little heavy upside down but good still
i understand that an impact gun wont work because it wants continuous torque but that begs the question will a drill? many people have a drill at home but no dedicated auto tools, perhaps one of these cheap ones would allow a drill to break lug nuts free
Hey. A drill won't work. The best way to find out is to try it for yourself. Be easy on the drill to not tear it up and you will see not enough torque to do the job and whatever you put in drill chuck will most likely spin inside the chuck. And a large drill if it gets hung up will jerk your arm bad.
I wonder if you can improve the el cheapo ones by cleaning it out, put in fine grinding paste and run it with a drill, no load for 5 or 10 minutes before cleaning and use some quality grease
The $4000 one looks identical to the proto j6232. No worries on breaking it as the square drive is replaceable and it acts as a shear pin… ask me how I know! I’d be open to send you one to tear down and peek inside to show the viewers! We tear ours down each year to clean and inspect!
It looks identical to the cat one we’ve got at work. I know a lot of the old cat tools were rebranded proto. We broke the drive at about 3200 ftlbs tightening jaw crusher main bearing caps. Good thing they are replaceable.
@@TorqueTestChannel I picked up a new in box williams tm-393 3,200 lb.ft multiplier from an estate sale place on ebay for $500 because they didn't know what it was. lol
My rule of thumb: - cheap and high ratio torque multipliers are good for unbolting heavy duty bolts - if you want to torque a bolt up to spec, expensive multipliers with lower ratio are needed - the cheap ones will throw your measurements out the window because they're highly innacurate.
We have two different ones like you show at my work. One of the black ones with the "foot" we have on an electric gun specifically designed for torqueing wheel studs on trucks. You set a value on the gun and go. The other one is like the most expensive one you showed. Tough to use as heavy as it is and moves so slow you can barely tell, but it does the job. Kind of scary really.
Tip of the day. Torque multipliers are heavy and sometimes you need a second person help hold it in position. If you're that person, don't get your arm/hand stuck between the reaction bar and a hard place when buddy is pulling on the ratchet. It really effing hurts.
I just used 1/2" drive 6 point socket ($7) pivoted on jack stand with 6' of 3/4" black pipe tube added to 18" breaker bar, with harmonic balancer hollow hex tool ($15) and got well over 1,000 lb.ft to unlock 22 year old Civic crankshaft bolt, total < $ 25 beyond all the normal tools I had. May need to do it again on a 20 year old pilot crankshaft bolt.
Happy days, guys. We're told the Wright $4k one can be found under Proto USA for a mere $2,900 amzn.to/4bS2vwu Can't afford NOT to buy it :P
If this comment gets a single like from anyone we'll buy more torque multipliers, these were stupid fun
Yes! MORE BEANS!
I have the proto version. It’s a game changer when you can’t fit your inch drive impact in on really tight bolts.
There are a couple used units posted up on eBay, coming from India, for $1299 w/free shipping. Sounds like TTC needs one for the arsenal
I have 2 requests for tests. The new air impacts from Walmart, Amazon and Harbor Freight and new high torque impacts from Amazon please
Mammoth makes a nice one I paid 300 for it. It's a 12 :1 torque output. Maxed out at 2k torque. It saved us thousands of dollars when I pulled it out to turn a rod inside a press.
Now we gotta allow the good idea fairy to provide a visit, and drive a torque multiplier with a torque multiplier
Yes please
Yes. See I'd the pepper grinders can add up to more torque for less money than the $4000 tool!
Inception
Yeah I want to apply 50,000 foot pounds of torque with my hand
Torqueception
Finally found what Jiffy Lube uses to tighten drain plugs .
...and those crappy tiny little oil filters.
@@mond000 I've got bad news. There's only 1 kind of oil filter for your car's engine, so if it's a different size than last time, it's not the right oil filter now, or it wasn't earlier.
The secret is to use an impact wrench. The plug will spin fast, then it turn very slow, then it will spin really fast. That's when you know it's done.
LOL! You're done alright... Or should I say your car's drain plug bolt 🔩 is done!
@@shawn576 Yes, if Jiffy does it right, not only will you have to replace the drain plug, you will also have to rethread the oil pan. And, even if they stop the impact wrench short, you will still have a plug that's very hard to remove & the threads will be stretched.
"Anyways, here's us using an impact wrench."😂😂😂
Heck yeah 😂
I laughed out loud at this 😂
I choked on my soda
Frank Reynolds energy.
@@cpthornman "So anyways, I started blasting"😆
So that chain is an incredibly dangerous spring, and if you guys do this again, please, use a solid, noncompressable stop for holding the reaction arm. As a Millwright in a steel mill, when torque like this goes wrong with sprung restraints, people can die. I have seen stuff go straight through cinderblock walls. Be safe.
When it’s too sketchy for even the millwrights you know it’s dangerous.
LOL! Don't ever watch someone pull a frame then, that's way more sketchy with a chain and spring action. Especially with modern high strength steel frame members.
@@brianwelch1579 Like vehicle frame straightening? Naw, that's light work stuff. The real fear for me is playing with the 6000 BAR hydraulic jacks. That stuff you quadruple check and still have a few sweats. And everyone jumps when it finally gets things moving!
they were lifting the unit off the ground so that was no good then ripping it off the base. the chain to the body was the best choice however they should have got gr100 chain of adequate size . that stuff looked like gr30
@@ronblack7870 I disagree. I understand your point of view, as this seems like the easiest and cheapest solution, but I disagree that it is that safe. If they want to play with the big torque, I think they need to make sure they have the equipment to deal with it properly. For example, our work benches where we routinely torque bolts to 1900 lb/ft, are all 1" thick steel plate tops that have anchor points in them to mount framework and can be used to brace a reaction arm against. Connection points rated for many tons of load and build up almost no sprung energy. It's just not worth the risk of playing with it if you don't need too, and chain is for sure the lowest on the list to try and contain an unknown force. A link goes and it all goes launching. Better slings, be it nylon or steel, at least there is feedback. But better to have the ability to fold the tool in half knowing that you are safe. That all from a simple bench that will last forever. Easy call in my book.
I can't believe the first one you opened even works. Sand cast gears... amazing.
I made a gagging noise when he opened that first case. The fact that it does 1100 at all is a damn miracle.
That was the second one.
The finest chinese sand though!
That thing is ugly even by cheapo Chinese tool standards. Looks like something an archaeologist would dig up from the bronze age - except the quality of the alloy used would probably be better if it was from the bronze age.
The more expensive 2nd one was the poor quality pepper grinder
If you stack all of these together you might be able to remove a Honda crank bolt.
Actually the neiko will take that right out. A primary reason I got mine was to deal with m16 crank bolts TTY on bmw.
We used a Snap-On 3/4" breaker bar and a 10' pipe for our CR-V. Lifted the car off the jackstand before it let go. Scary stuff.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I use my IR 3/4" drive gun, one blip of the trigger and it's off.
I've done multiple Honda Pilot crank bolts... they are always impressive. I just use a 3/4 old craftsman breaker bar braced against the frame and use the starter to crank over the engine with the spark cables removed. I'm forever grateful to the guys on the Piloteers forums for teaching me that one!
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I rented a 3/4" impact to get the one on my Honda Civic back in the day (after failing to crack it with a 1/2" ratchet and long pipe extension).
A couple of us broke 2 $13k torque multipliers one night trying to remove die bed bolts. They wouldn't let us cut the bolts, cuz they were special order, until they saw the 2 broken multipliers. lol
What bolts?
@@ENEN-tz6eg 4 upper die bed bolts in a ajax 2500ton press that hold the bed to the machine. I can't remember what size they were exactly but i want to say they were like 3 3/4 inch bolts.
@@TheFallenAngel13524 goddamn. Thanks for the info
They wuz college boys for sure .... "NOOO, those bolts are expensive"
clearly you should have welded those 2 torque multipliers together and make a $26k torque exponentiater - something wouldve come off for sure
What would happen if you connected the output of one multiplier to the input to the next? Chain all the multipliers and you'll be able to twist spacetime.
Be able to move the universe
Just gotta get past the backlash.
They all have pretty low max input torque numbers, so you'd always blow up the second one in the set, and all following if they get that far.
Snap on actually recommends doing this and I'm sure it will worth with the neiko as well. It's convenient that the output of the smaller matches the input of the bigger. Snap on has three sizes. You can't get more over all output than the biggest it just makes it much easier.
Did that on very large bolts all the time. Had to torque to 2400 ftlbs.
The $4k Wright multiplier is really handy to use with a pneumatic nutrunner. Ours is a 25:1 ratio, and with an Ingersoll Rand 9RSQ83 nutrunner, it's 300 rpm & 82 inch-pounds input, 12 rpm & 170 ft-lbs out. Moves stuff quickly.
We use generally hydraulic or electric versions of these in structural steel to do final torque, after snugging large or particularly important bolts we will go either 1/3rd or 1/2 a turn (depending on bolt length) to reach final torque, this is what we do on roadway gantries, large road signs, refineries, tunnels, mining equipment, etc.
I worked at an ethylene-oxide plant one time using a hydraulic torque multiplier to break loose the bolts holding the catalytic chamber together.
Huge bolts, about 70 or 90 or so of them and they had to be cracked loose 8 at a time - so hydraulics running to 8 reaction arms.
It was a major job, took days for a dozen guys just to do that.
same here..... HY-TORQ
Seen a few guys pinch fingers with the hy torque, scary!
Lol, its a small world because I make em! Hytorc Versa Slims?
As a semi truck driver i can say these things are priceless. Recently i swap to 3/4 makita impact but i still carry one of these in the cab. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting to loosen the nuts of the wheel on the side of the highway. Love this channel
I work in a hydraulic cylinder manufacturing plant, we use electric motor driven torque multipliers for the piston nuts, crazy how tight they can get accurately
at 1:04 When talking about price and said "and our own Snap-On situated right in the middle" I perked up.
We have a Proto J6252 torque multiplier at work that says it goes up to 8,000 ft-lbs, lets just say we have shattered 2" B7 grade studs with it when they just didn't want to come free. It has 1 1/2" input and output drive squares.
We used one to test slip torque on drivetrain flanges for muscle cars. We often go well above 2000 lb-ft. We can then take the torque required to slip the joint and the tension created by bolts holding the flanges together to calculate to coefficient of friction of the flanges.
I wish I knew where to find one… But I know what you need. Years ago I was working on a tractor with my dad, and we were unable to get the rear wheel off because our household air compressor wasn’t up to the task of keeping the impact going Long enough to break those big giant Lugnuts loose.
My dad worked at a factory and he knew the shop foreman. He was able to borrow this wrench from the machine shop, that was basically like a 6 foot long ratchet with a 1 inch drive socket, and in the box it also had a 4 to1 multiplier box, that you could put on it to amplify the torque. It was a beast. The funniest thing was even with all that one of the Lugnuts was so stuck. We put a 6 foot cheater bar on the handle of that giant ratchet, trying to get it off. So just imagine someone hopping up and down on a 12 foot lever with a 4:1 gearbox… I really thought we were going to snap the stud off, but it finally broke loose with some help from the torch heating it.
Damn.
So i am a maintenance tech at an aluminum extrusion factory and we use a B-Rad 5,000 for almost everything that asks for over 1,000 lbs. love the channel btw!
You have to Bart Simpson Megaphone these things.....one into another.
Infinite torque!!
you aren't tightening the bolt clockwise, you're spinning the earth counter-clockwise below you
awesome reference lol
I’d love to see them stacked!
I have the 60$ version, works great on semi lug nuts in the farm when needed out in the field away from air compressor, small package but works great!
It's definitely a farmer's tool. If it breaks, oh well get another at that price. For how often you need it, Chinesium gears are fine. Still, that Neiko sounds tempting. Easier on the wrists for sure.
It's not the size it's how you use it
I love the ratcheting one, you can torque up the bolt real high and walk away. It will let you know when it breaks loose. You can also apply a little heat or vibration while it's torqued.
She torqued my wrench till I multiplied
Did she strip your sand-cast gears tho?
😂
@@HANKTHEDANKEST She cnc machined them perfect
Dammit😂
C'mon now, you'll be in middle school next year, where there's no such Tomfoolery allowed 😉
Love Grandpa's 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar! I bought one about 45-50 yrs ago,still haven't a use it all the time! Love the old Craftsman USA stuff!
My new protos are pretty sweet but I would definitely love to have one of those old craftsman USA's.
I've got a 3/4" drive SnapOn X4 (1000 ftIbs) that I purchased second hand for £150 of my old foreman when he retired.
Definitely one of my favourite tools and it's amazing how much you use them once you've got one. Main thing is being able to torque to 500ftib plus without having to lug a 6ft long torque wrench around.
Hytorc has a 1 1/2 drive hydraulic torque I use at work ever once in a awhile to adjust 3 - 4 inch bolts that adjust the height of hydraulic press knives. Our toque spec for those bolts is 10,000 ft lbs. We use the same tool to loosen those bolts with added heat
I recently purchased a multiplier from princess auto in Canada. Some items from princess auto are less than great (garbage), but I was willing to risk the money. It's a 4:1 ratio and was on sale for 50% off. So, a $400 item for $200. Now what surprised me was a handwritten calibration certificate that came with it. The multiplier was rated at 1100ft pounds, but the certificate of test was up to almost 1400 ft pounds. I highly doubt that I'll need to torque anything that high, but it was more for removing larger or stuck bolts/nuts. it looks very similar to the Neiko and are similar in specs, however, mine did not have a case for it, but it did come with a calibration certificate. Excellent test video.
The same company that made one of the torque multiplier, made my air con unit (homcom) have had it for 3 yrs working non stop as a dehumidifier and all summer time as an ac unit and hasn't missed a beat yet
Regarding the square drive issues, just get a high grade large bolt and nut, thread them together then lay some weld so they're now one big long hex, put a 1 inch drive socket on the input, put the giant hex in the socket, put a socket on the hex sticking out, and put a tool on the socket. I made an adapter to let me use the 1/2" end of an extension on an impact gun to zoot Caravan/T&C spare tires up and down inside the car instead of using the included tools very slowly.
I work on US Army CH-47. We use something like that Gador torque multiplier to torque the "Jesus" nut that holds the fwd and aft rotor head to the fwd and aft transmissions. I think we torque the nuts to something like 5,000 ft-lbs. It's always a little sketchy. This is an awesome video. Love your content.
I love watching the ones they use to remove bolts on D11s, track plates, roller bolts, etc. Hydraulic things with MASSIVE torque.
The real question what happens when you put a multiplier on a multiplier.
It can move a truck, i think
I purchased a pepper grinder style about a year ago. The first thing I did before using it was removing the guts clean and greased the gears. I have a 5 foot brush hog and the blade bolt requires 350ft-lbs. The highest I could get my torque wrench by myself without the multiplier was 275 ft-lbs. I was afraid the blade would work the bolt loose that's why I bought the multiplier. I bought a Neiko upon arrival the socket square was broke and Neiko to send me a new face plate, nope, returned the tool to Amazon. Bought the cheap pepper grinder style. Only use twice a year to sharpen brush hog blades. Thanks for the video.
What a beautiful Armstrong torque wrench.. just added a nos digital 1/2" to my Armstrong collection
Having a number of Armstrong tools, seeing another makes me happy they continue to live on and sad they are no more.
This makes sense, nieko is occasional use, snap on is general purpose semi truck , agricultural one. Wright is for heavy industrial equipment like d11 cats or structural needs.
16:45 - Pure tofu dregs quality right there!! WOW!
Probably still has casting sand in there!
Cha Bu Duo Industrial Svc, LTD
And here is us using an impact....😂
That made me literally laugh out loud.
This tool are not meant to be used with an impact...WE'RE GONNA TEST THAT
@@BuilderWild Ahhh. Nice Project Farm reference. I like it.👍
"I'd recommend burning that thing to the ground" I'm going to say that to my boss next time a piece of equipment breaks
We use Sweeney high capacity aerospace torque multipliers at work. I can't find how much they cost but I'm guessing its not cheap. As far as I know the biggest goes up to 30,000 ft-lbs.
I definitely want to see more of the pepper grinders since they're so cheap. Maybe there's a low-cost good-quality version out there?
That would be neat to see. It's pretty rare I encounter a fastener I can't use the torch on when the ugga dugga and the breaker bar won't move it, but having a fairly cheap tool in the bottom drawer for just such an emergency would be smart (especially if you know which one isnt total garbage)
Grams of pepper per second is a metric my life needs
I've run ground screws in with peppergrinders, sustained torque over 1000ftlb for over 20 revolutions, over 24 groundscrews. Used amilwaukee b4-32 to drive it and an 8'pole as the reaction arm. Failure mode has been snapping the reaction arm off
@@rotorhead5000 AME makes the nut loosener for like $100 we use them where we cant use heat. 58 to 1
Needed to drive some 3/4"x12" Titen concrete screws that our impact couldn't handle and ended up getting one of the cheapo "peppermill" units. Worked like a champ and ran those screws in with a 1/2" drill powering it.
Efficiency loss with old grease is a real thing. I have an old MAC 4:1 with 1" drive output that I can barely turn. I have no imeadiete use for it, but it needs to be cleaned out of the old dried and sticky grease for sure.
I used to use multipliers to torque crane and bucket truck mount bolts. We sent both the torque wrench and multiplier out every year to be calibrated, as far as the multiplier, we gave them a list of actual torque values we used and they did something like what you did. They sent a list of values to multiply by when using the combo we sent them.
I've got the same one as that last one, but a different brand (either Enerpak or Proto, I can't remember, but they're all the same). If you do some diligent shopping, you can find used ones (relatively) pretty cheaply. I snagged mine for less than $400.
More pepper grinder videos please! I didn't even know those were a thing. Thanks for being awesome!
I've seen them and they have bad idea written all over them. Stay away.
@@firesurferthey are fine for their intended use. heavy truck lug nuts.
I have the Snap-on one and it has served me well. Got it used of a guy who used to work on gaint factory air compressors
I use one of these things for one job. Torquing the crab nuts to 1800 ft lbs on an EMD. My boss is too cheap to get us a hydraulic torque wrench so we use a 600 ft lb torque wrench and a multiplier.
well a hydraulic wrench new is 10 - 20k with the power unit. so depends how much you use it.
I just realized watching this how much you have increased the collective understanding of torque and tools. Wild!
Im glad you cleaned and repacked the one. Thats something i do with all my ratchets no matter the brand. Even from new. Its amazing what a difference it makes in having them cleaned and greased inside.
5:00 i noticed a mistake , with your seup. the chain is pressing against the nut, the tighter it got the tighter thechain is pressed into the nut making it become more difficult faster than it should have. i think
I have plenty of 4 point sockets, I use them for pipe plugs. Some of the really old ones from the 1800s are completely non standard so I have many sizes including custom CNC machined ones.
It seems like you could make a really high quality one of these for pretty cheap. The only reason they’re so expensive is because they’re sold as “specialty tools” to industrial shops and so they justify insane prices.
$4k wrench is $20 worth of an OEM Auto component lmfao these specialty tool prices
We use a Sweeney Power wrench to torque propellers. Much like a torque wrench they have to be tested we are then provided with a chart showing its ratio at specific input torques. For us it's around 200 input for approximately 2200 output. Cool test
Lookup (Superbolt). We used these (Supernut version) on 4 inch studs. Hand screw the two piece nut on, then stretch the nut height with included high tensile 5/8 size fastners.
I've had the homcom for years now ($49 in Dec 2015 according to Amazon). It gets used very rarely, maybe once or twice a year, but it's worth way more than the $49 when I do need it.
Id probably say these are designed as alternatives to power shop tools where power shop tools aren't available or space is limited. Wheel change on the road, or that suspension fastener between the frame & body. I like the idea, I can think of several occasions where these could be used. Great video.
0:42 It is done all the time in fastener laboratories, they're just not posting about it on the internet. We're using strain gauged fasteners not these micky mouse skidmore units.
I've always used a Ten Foot Length of 2" Iron Pipe as a Torque Multiplier
Yo, my adhd loved this. You just got a new fan. Great stuff
I work at Caterpillar, we use thr 18 to 1 all the time for D12 undercarriage, or removing big excavator counterweight. They are awsome!!
I've used a Neiko similar to that one to break free a rusted rear pinion nut off of a Chevy 2500 that the owner had brought in because they forgot to refill diff fluid before driving 80mi on the highway, the pinion nut was almost welded on since the bearing had welded itself together. I felt like an absolute god when I broke it free.
I bought the Neiko for torquing backhoe cylinder piston bolts. Nice to know it's a bit off in ratios.
I used to work at a place that used that style for precision applications. Every one had a calibration sheet for input and output torque. Find your desired torque on the chart and cross for your required input. They're accurate but need charted for high precision use.
I was surprised to see that last multiplier without Cat branding, I've only ever seen them with Caterpillar part numbers
Snap-On is the one I would go for. Years ago a shop I worked in had a different type of Snap-On. It was like 4 ratchets stacked on each other. Largest ratchet closest to the work moving to smaller ones away. Shop owned as I am sure the cost was in the stratosphere.
I have a good quality 1" air impact wrench that would not budge a rusted on semi truck lug nuts. I bought the cheap hand crank torque multiplier and unbelievably it had no problem removing every lug nut, and quietly.
I have had the same Wright 20:1 for 15 years and it is so much better than anything else I've ever used. Every torque multiplier should be ratcheting.
Thanks for taking the time and risks to test these. I'm actually surprised that the cheap ones didn't disintegrate.
I have one of the pepper grinder ones, and it takes over tourqed rusted semi lugs off, run by a makita XPH14, or XPH07, using a 12 sided socket (1-1/8" I think) to turn the input. It's a beast! Not pretty, and with all the sockets and just stacked up, it's heavy... but man it beats jumping on a 4ft cheater pipe handle....
Watching you break that loose with one hand was more than a sight to see, I know mathematically speaking it was always gonna turn out like that, but Watching it was like magic, imagine never needing to torch a bolt, you could lift almost an entire truck with the strength it puts out
Very cool. That Wright model is so slick with the ratcheting.
I have been waiting for this for so longgggg!!!!!
Awesome! We have the larger version of the neiko for breaking apart hydraulic cylinders mostly and we've really abused it. Absolutely fantastic tool for 250 bucks. I would love to have that 4k one though. What a world of difference that would make.
I think it’s nice that you have a Skidmore but for these experiments maybe you could buy a 10 foot I-beam and just use the definition of torque: weld a large nut onto one end of your I-beam weld a hook onto the other end, figure out the weight of the I-beam, and then add some more weights to the far end…
So , you're onto the "burn that thing to the ground" method too (if it's 5000lbs worth of stuck) , also , that's Uncle Bernie's 1/2 Craftsman breaker , thanks for all your work !
The biggest torque multiplier I ever have seen was at my first job, a overhaul shop for jet engines. The torque multiplier used for removing and installing the fan blade hub retaining nut on the P&W JT9D engines was installed by overhead winch, it must have weighed at least 150kg. I have no idea of the maximum torque produced though…
First I want to say your script is awesome. Second, the heavy trades did use torque tools for 1000s of ft pound specs.
I bought the starter model of these torque multipliers two months ago. It did the job, however I'm aware that you have to be careful when using these because you can break them as they aren't that well made. They are chunky so you might be tempted to think that they are invulnerable, they aren't. Treat them with care and they should last. Make sure the lube is good.
I own the same exact one as that $60 you showed, I got it on sale a little less, I've used it to remove 22.5" wheels off commercial trucks and buses, it gives you a work out but I prefer it to a breaker bar. Thank you for these, I love your tests.
I left mine outside in the box, it wound up FULL of water and you know those gears rusted like crazy but I've used it a couple of times since then but its been a couple of months now I wonder if it is rusted stuck lol.
The real question is how many torque multipliers do you have to put together to create a singularity and put a rip in the space time continuum? 🤔
I had no idea this tool exists. Man, that wright tools model is the sauce
Any chance of testing the swenchs? Ive always been intriguied at the idea of having one
17:30 Now that's QUALITY Chinesium
I have one of those el cheapo or what you call peppergrinder style ones. It might be 10 years old, used and abused, wobbly as anything but it still works fine. I find a 27mm 12 point socket fits it just fine, milwaukee m18 drill in low gear driving it and it'll shift pretty much any wheelbolt I throw it at. Pop all the bolts and the 1/2 inch m18 impact does the rest.
Thanks for answering a question I didn´t knew I´d have: can I uggabugga those? Should I? -No. …Thanks, Merry Christmas! I liked the narrator. Sounds way more calm than the other guy. A taste comparison: this voice is like butter, going down tasty and smooth. The other seems more like hot pepper moonshine, not too pleasant but it delivers the message.
You gotta try manual impact wrenches, particularly the Swench, it seems to be quite good
IDEA. You recently showed how no-seize can affect torque readings. I watch a lot of SMA and Eric is always faking torque wrench noises. He's learned to tighten by feel most of the time because he knows how far off torque can be for a variety of situations. I would love to see this tested. Mock up a bunch of scenarios of rusted, oily, wet bolts and nuts and show how different torque varies in these scenarios when trying to use a torque wrench. And, maybe have your staff tighten by feel to see how closely they can approximate the required torque. Better yet, go to SMA and do this with Eric. I would love to see that kind of collaboration.
this is awesome, we actually used the last torque multiplier to torque EMD engine bolts some up to 2400ftlbs
We have a red "pepper grinder", at the shop and even though it doesn't work on every "stuck" lug nut, it gets the job done when it fits! I forgot what brand it is but, I'm rather positive that it's on the cheap side.
We use the Wright 18.5:1 multipler at CAT to torque those 836 axle mounting bolts at 1800 ft lbs. They are the best, a little heavy upside down but good still
i understand that an impact gun wont work because it wants continuous torque but that begs the question will a drill? many people have a drill at home but no dedicated auto tools, perhaps one of these cheap ones would allow a drill to break lug nuts free
Hey. A drill won't work. The best way to find out is to try it for yourself.
Be easy on the drill to not tear it up and you will see not enough torque to do the job and whatever you put in drill chuck will most likely spin inside the chuck.
And a large drill if it gets hung up will jerk your arm bad.
I wonder if you can improve the el cheapo ones by cleaning it out, put in fine grinding paste and run it with a drill, no load for 5 or 10 minutes before cleaning and use some quality grease
The $4000 one looks identical to the proto j6232. No worries on breaking it as the square drive is replaceable and it acts as a shear pin… ask me how I know! I’d be open to send you one to tear down and peek inside to show the viewers! We tear ours down each year to clean and inspect!
Hey good catch! And no doubt are same units as there's often industrial overlap between Proto and Wright
It looks identical to the cat one we’ve got at work. I know a lot of the old cat tools were rebranded proto. We broke the drive at about 3200 ftlbs tightening jaw crusher main bearing caps. Good thing they are replaceable.
@@TorqueTestChannel I picked up a new in box williams tm-393 3,200 lb.ft multiplier from an estate sale place on ebay for $500 because they didn't know what it was. lol
At the nuke plant we had Hi-torque's
Battery operated and digital selectable.
Big $$$$.
I used one of the pepper grinders on a modified manual tire changer. Works like a charm.
i use a norbar 25:1 torque multiplier at work for injection mold machines some bolts are torqued to 1200-1500 NM 3/4 breaker bar, no sweat.
My rule of thumb:
- cheap and high ratio torque multipliers are good for unbolting heavy duty bolts
- if you want to torque a bolt up to spec, expensive multipliers with lower ratio are needed - the cheap ones will throw your measurements out the window because they're highly innacurate.
We have two different ones like you show at my work. One of the black ones with the "foot" we have on an electric gun specifically designed for torqueing wheel studs on trucks. You set a value on the gun and go. The other one is like the most expensive one you showed. Tough to use as heavy as it is and moves so slow you can barely tell, but it does the job. Kind of scary really.
Get your hands on one of the big internal spline drive Sweeney multipliers. 8200s. They're super cool.
Tip of the day. Torque multipliers are heavy and sometimes you need a second person help hold it in position. If you're that person, don't get your arm/hand stuck between the reaction bar and a hard place when buddy is pulling on the ratchet. It really effing hurts.
I just used 1/2" drive 6 point socket ($7) pivoted on jack stand with 6' of 3/4" black pipe tube added to 18" breaker bar, with harmonic balancer hollow hex tool ($15) and got well over 1,000 lb.ft to unlock 22 year old Civic crankshaft bolt, total < $ 25 beyond all the normal tools I had. May need to do it again on a 20 year old pilot crankshaft bolt.
The pepper grinder ones are like a old crank handle for a old tractors and old cars 😊😊😊😊