So, before you even dropped the level on that boiler, I said to myself that it doesn’t appear to be square! Gives credence to the saying “ Hacks bring Stacks”!😂 Another job well done by you, Daniel 👏
There aren’t many service techs out there capable of doing what you do. You must be in the top 5%. Great video and explanation of how and why you perform your service calls!
I think birds have gotten into the exhaust pipe of my boiler. I am afraid to use the boiler until I check for debris. Trying to figure out how much I need to take apart. Putting a hardware cloth screen over the vent afterwards of course.
Hey Daniel, I have this boiler and I'm getting 8.6% CO2 and CO in the upper 80's PPM at high fire. 37% excess air, 5.7% O2. If I back out the throttle screw to 9.0% CO2 (min specified by NTI), my CO exceeds 100ppm. Any ideas? This is after cleaning the combustion chamber. Gas line pressure is within spec static (7 inWC) and and high fire (>4 inWC).
@@PhillyFixed first of all recommended static from NTI is 7-10 InH2O. (And Higher if it’s propane) Just because it’s within “spec” doesn’t mean it’s what the manufacturer wants. The specified minimum is the absolute minimum it will run at that doesn’t mean it’s safe and proper to do so. The maximum CO from NTI is 175, because through there tests they’ve found the lowest level it can burn at with varying atmospheric pressures and gas pressures is 175. And that doesn’t mean 175 is good it just means that NTI will accept it. I would say you need to inspect everything fully and clean everything fully. Inspect the burner itself. If the burner has any slight defect, crack, hole, anything. It will burn improperly and cause higher CO. Secondly check your blower. Make sure it’s actually modulating at the RPM the system thinks it’s at. I would check fresh air, make sure u have no blockages even thought you have enough. I believe the blower pulls the gas in on this model rather than allowing it to just flow in, which means it requires good negative air pressure from the fresh air. I would check for blockages in the exhaust and make sure it’s clear. And make sure it’s within manufacturer specifications with distance (number of fittings, and type of fittings increases distance greatly). Make sure your combustion analyzer and your manometer are reading accurately. There’s a lot to look at. Kinda need to gauge the situation yourself.
@DCHVAC thanks for the reply. NTI specifies min 4 / max 10.5 inches of WC as the acceptable range for the gas pressure, with 7 as the ideal. It's around 7 static, but more like 4.3 at high fire -- there's not much I can do to increase my gas pressure from the street, though. "Throttle screw" is the term NTI uses for the gas adjustment screw in their literature. UEI C161 analyzer just came back from UEI's calibration/recert, and manometer was zeroed just before turning the gas back on. I'll double check my air intake and exhaust piping for any obstructions, I suppose. I can't think of any other causes. The boiler is 7 years old and has operated well in the past, so no issues with the original install (vent distance etc.) Thanks again for the reply!
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
So, before you even dropped the level on that boiler, I said to myself that it doesn’t appear to be square! Gives credence to the saying “ Hacks bring Stacks”!😂 Another job well done by you, Daniel 👏
There aren’t many service techs out there capable of doing what you do. You must be in the top 5%. Great video and explanation of how and why you perform your service calls!
Appreciate that
Beautiful work DanielSon! Good to have you back! 👍👍🏆🏆
Good job Daniel. Keep up the good work.
They're on your third revision to that control board
Nice job Dan ... Thx
Nice video Daniel keep it up
I think birds have gotten into the exhaust pipe of my boiler. I am afraid to use the boiler until I check for debris. Trying to figure out how much I need to take apart. Putting a hardware cloth screen over the vent afterwards of course.
Hey man I have this same boiler do you service In NYC
Use a cake spreader to go into grooves
Nylon brush on drill works well
I can't stay wife coming back from shopping. I'm at Winn Dixie lol
It looks good from my house. The installer 😂
Hello Daniel
👍
HVAC guy on TH-cam uses it he works by himself
that upper neutralizer, under the condensate trap, should be horizontal, with the offset outlet high, so it stays full and neutralizing,
It’s not used as a neutralizer. The pump is the neutralizer.
I didn’t install it.
@@DCHVAC ok
Hey Daniel, I have this boiler and I'm getting 8.6% CO2 and CO in the upper 80's PPM at high fire. 37% excess air, 5.7% O2. If I back out the throttle screw to 9.0% CO2 (min specified by NTI), my CO exceeds 100ppm. Any ideas? This is after cleaning the combustion chamber. Gas line pressure is within spec static (7 inWC) and and high fire (>4 inWC).
@@PhillyFixed first of all recommended static from NTI is 7-10 InH2O. (And Higher if it’s propane)
Just because it’s within “spec” doesn’t mean it’s what the manufacturer wants. The specified minimum is the absolute minimum it will run at that doesn’t mean it’s safe and proper to do so.
The maximum CO from NTI is 175, because through there tests they’ve found the lowest level it can burn at with varying atmospheric pressures and gas pressures is 175. And that doesn’t mean 175 is good it just means that NTI will accept it.
I would say you need to inspect everything fully and clean everything fully. Inspect the burner itself. If the burner has any slight defect, crack, hole, anything. It will burn improperly and cause higher CO. Secondly check your blower. Make sure it’s actually modulating at the RPM the system thinks it’s at.
I would check fresh air, make sure u have no blockages even thought you have enough. I believe the blower pulls the gas in on this model rather than allowing it to just flow in, which means it requires good negative air pressure from the fresh air.
I would check for blockages in the exhaust and make sure it’s clear. And make sure it’s within manufacturer specifications with distance (number of fittings, and type of fittings increases distance greatly).
Make sure your combustion analyzer and your manometer are reading accurately.
There’s a lot to look at. Kinda need to gauge the situation yourself.
@@PhillyFixed I also hope you’re touching the right screw when you say “throttle” screw.
@DCHVAC thanks for the reply.
NTI specifies min 4 / max 10.5 inches of WC as the acceptable range for the gas pressure, with 7 as the ideal. It's around 7 static, but more like 4.3 at high fire -- there's not much I can do to increase my gas pressure from the street, though.
"Throttle screw" is the term NTI uses for the gas adjustment screw in their literature.
UEI C161 analyzer just came back from UEI's calibration/recert, and manometer was zeroed just before turning the gas back on.
I'll double check my air intake and exhaust piping for any obstructions, I suppose. I can't think of any other causes. The boiler is 7 years old and has operated well in the past, so no issues with the original install (vent distance etc.)
Thanks again for the reply!
You should get this chest mount for phone
How would you maintain and service NTI FTVN 150,000 ???
Similarly.
I know it must be hard to tape when trying to get jobs done and keep movi
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