Airbrush Basics: Reducing Your Paint (Part 1)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2020
- Demystifying paint reduction for general airbrushing - In this video I discuss all of the different Createx reducers available for Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail Colors and Illustration Colors. I share my opinion on which reducer is best suited for general airbrush purposes and show the manufacturers recommended reduction percentage ratios.
Createx Technical Data Sheets creatextech.com/
Createx 4011 Reducer amzn.to/30wRBuo
Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by or affiliated with any of the products mentioned in my videos. I promote products that I use personally because they work. Links listed above are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
#createxcolorsco - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This was a great series that has helped me a lot on getting started.
Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
As a new TH-cam creator dealing with diecast cars, I have found your videos extremely helpful! Subscribed. 👍🏼
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words and support!
Thank you trevor - just added the 4011 to my amazon cart
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment Carolyn!
Thanks for the info. A simple reliable guide to reducing my illustration paint would be a great resource. I've noticed that black seems to be thicker that say red or yellow (yellow especially).
Correct. Some colors are thicker than others (which is true across the board - Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail and the Illustration line). I'm not a chemist, but I believe it has to do with the different pigments used to create the actual colors. I suspect some are just larger particles than others which causes greater viscosity. In part 2 I'll actually spray most of the manufacturer recommended percentage ratios from 5% to 30% and beyond. We'll take a close look at those results. I'll also share how I mix my paint and the reduction ratio I use for about 90 percent of what I do. Hopefully, that information will help to simplify things for everyone!
Thanks for this video. I have had nothing but problems with the 4012 also. It seems to make my paint not mix together and clogs my brush every time. I stopped airbrushing because of it. I'm gonna have to try the 11 and 13. I appreciate your knowledge.
Hey Josh! Like I said, 4012 was very hit and miss for me. It worked great when it worked, but when it didn't it was extremely frustrating on my end too! I haven't tried the 4013 yet, but the 4011 reducer has always worked with absolutely no issues. I'd stick with the 4011!
Thanks for all the great tips. Finally sensibly explained what all these reducers are used for .. Think it has been a jungle of confusion ..
Awesome! I'm glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Thank you for this much needed video. Unfortunately I have found the more research I do on this subject, the more confused I get!
Hopefully these videos will alleviate some of your confusion. I gave you my recommendation for using only the 4011 reducer in this video (if you're using Createx products). In part 2 we'll dig into how the 5% to 30% recommended ratios actually perform. I'll share how I mix my paint and what reduction ratio I use for about 90 percent of what I do.
@@wickedartstudio I was using 4012, but have put in an order for 4011. I even emailed createx about the difference and they said the 4011 is the newer alternative (doesn't really tell me much!) Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and I will be watching.
@@jf6720 Thank you for the support my friend!
I feel that
Welcome back! thanks for the clearer info : )
PS... is it true the W100 is the same as 4011? Thanks.
Thanks Jimbo!
Yes. It is true the W100 reducer is the same as 4011. There might be some minor chemistry changes between the two (especially if the 4011 is new), but nothing that will cause any issues. I still have five and a half 32 oz. bottles of W100 that I use almost every day. W100 and/or 4011 do not go bad in my experience.
@@wickedartstudio Thanks very much my good man!
I was using 4012 for a year and had so much trouble with it, airbrush gumming up and bad flow. Never knew what was going wrong when i saw everywhere that it was the reducer to use. Was almost ready to give up with createx. But tried 4011 after watching your vid and I have to say the difference is night and day. So much better flow. Thanks.
I'm glad you found the information helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!
@@wickedartstudio Great videos. Thank you.
i like all your works and tutorials thank you idol
Thank you my friend!
Great video Trevor I have never understood the whole skim milk thing either haha thought it was just me not understanding that I do the same roughly bout 50/50 maybe less sometimes just depends great helpful video thanks for taking the time to put it together
Glad I'm not alone... lol. I appreciate the kind words Jayden!
I airbrush nails and your video really helped me. Thank you 😎🥰😎
Awesome! Thank you!
Very helpful, thank you !!!!
Thank you!
know this is a old video.But wow that did help me and my paint spray alot better and so much more control. Thank you again. Sub for sure.
Thanks Freddie! This video is older, but the information still applies. I'm glad it helped you out and happy to have you as a subscriber!
Trevor..Thanks
I had a problem while back I asked you about my paint gumming up it was the 4012..I have switched to 401..Thanks for help
Hey Richard! I'm glad my advice was helpful and I have no doubt the 4011 is treating you well! I appreciate your continued support my friend!
This is very interesting, I been using both 4012/4011 for quite some time and never experienced my paint gumming up. Maybe they changed the formula of the 4012 and there are different batches of it? I will be sure to order 4011 when I run low on reducer.
I know for a fact the paint formulations have changed over the years. So, I wouldn't be surprised if the reducer formulations have gone through changes as well. I'm no chemist, but I've more or less attributed my 4012 failures to a couple of things (or a combination of them):
1). I tend to buy reducer in large quantities just to be sure I don't run out in the middle of a job. If I'm doing a lot of large work with a mini gun or full size gun, the reducer gets used relatively quickly. The majority of my work is all airbrush though which uses reducer at a much slower rate. Sometimes a bottle of reducer will sit on my shelf for a long period of time before it gets used as a result. When I was experiencing issues with 4012 and trying to figure out what was going on, I went and bought a brand new 2 oz. bottle of the same reducer at a local jobber and had no issues. My initial thought was perhaps there's a shelf life, but it also could've been a new formulation. I really don't know.
2). I tend to over reduce my paint. I've tried adding small quantities of 4012 to my paint at a time, stirring well before adding additional reducer as opposed to adding all of the reducer at once and shocking the paint. Sometimes that strategy worked and sometimes it didn't - I still wound up with a congealed mixture that wasn't usable in a lot of those instances.
In the end, I gave up on 4012. Using 4011 simplifies things and solved the issues I was having with 4012.
Thank you for your time and videos
I was wondering what paints in the Createx line you would recommend for a beginner to airbrushing?
I took a few traditional art classes and worked with basic acrylics and I really liked it but kept finding that an airbrush would suit my artistic pursuits.
That being said, I also love Candies and Pearl's and incorporated it in some of my artwork with rattle cans with varying degrees of success.
Thanks again, can't wait for the next video!
-Rod
Hey Rod. Thanks for the kind words and the support my friend! I would suggest the Illustration line for a beginner. The Illustration line is better suited for the airbrush in my opinion. Some of the Illustration colors are thin enough to spray without reduction (depending on the needle/nozzle size of the brush you're using) and others require little reduction (you'll notice some colors have more viscosity than others). Overall, the learning curve using the Illustration line should be minimal. Pearlescent colors are not offered in the Illustration line though. You can get those in the Wicked or Auto Air lines (or mix them yourself with Illustration transparent base and dry pearl). Hope that helps!
@@wickedartstudio Thanks for taking time out of your day to respond, it is greatly appreciated and it helps a bunch!
Do you have a website or link that might benefit your channel that I can buy them through?
Thanks again, hope you and yours are safe 😀👍
@@kill3rkitt3ns I do have a link that I will receive a small commission from if you choose to make a purchase. You can find a full set here amzn.to/30XOEmN
Thank you so much for the support my friend!
Dude great vid
Thank you!
Have you used GAC 200 often in your airbrush for sealing ground metal? I use an Iwata HP-C Plus which has a 3mm tip. Just curious about your experience with it since you mention it in one of your videos. I also use Golden High Flow Acrylics in my airbrush and right now, its my go to. But I haven’t tried the Candy 2.0 yet so I’m also interested in trying that through my equipment. Also, would you ever use the createx transparent sealer under golden paints or would you stick with a mfg brand for your whole painting process. I keep trying auto air on my ground metal projects and disappointed by the color brightness after 3 or 4 thin coats.
Hey Carolyn! I don't think I've mentioned any Golden products in any of my videos because I don't use them. I've actually never tried that particular brand of paint although I hear and read great things about their paint quite often.
For sealing ground metal I will normally use Createx UVLS Gloss Clear. On occasion I will opt to seal the surface with a catalyzed urethane clear if I really want to protect the surface or stop a candy bleed before I begin airbrushing artwork over the background created on the panel, but that is rare and using UVLS makes the process go a lot faster.
I also normally recommend sticking with one product line from start to finish. Sometimes different brands don't get along all that well chemically and some strange things can happen. Sometimes the reaction creates a cool effect and sometimes it ruins your work. Having said that, mixing different products can be done successfully more often than not based on my own experience. If you choose to do so I would strongly recommend trying it out on a test panel before you use it on your actual project just to be sure.
Thanks for the great advice. I get some candy’s next week as well as the URL’s clear and excited to try it as my metal sealer prior to painting.
@@skysettermobiles You are welcome! If you have further questions please don't hesitate to ask!
4012 absolutely has a shelf life once opened. I got back into doing a little brushing after a 2 year hiatus. My half bottle of 4012 was toast. It would instantly cause my paint to go bad. Luckily I had my suspicions so I used a small cup to check. My unopened bottle, used and tested in the exact way had NO PROBLEMS. It's not a SHOCKING problem, it's a problem with the base chemical, and from my research and others, bacteria will break it down and ruin it. I always loved the stuff, but the going bad thing has bit my a couple times. Haven't tried any of the new stuff.
Either way, I only use 4011 Reducer mixed with my paint. 4012 has been discontinued. What I have left is only used for cleaning purposes.
Can't get used to createx so much moisture build up and just hasn't got the detail of urethane basecoats
In my opinion It does once you get it figured out. I used urethane for about 15 years before I started playing with Createx when Auto Air was first introduced. I struggled with it a lot... for a longer period of time than I should have. Part of the issue I think was Auto Air Colors was new and their formulations weren't as refined as they are now. The other part of the issue was me. Between marketing, forums and just talking to other painters about the products, it seemed everyone was trying to get Createx to spray and act like the urethane we all knew and loved. I fell into that trap too. I didn't want to change the way I worked because what I was doing worked so well for years with urethane. I tried to use the water-based paint the same way I used urethane until I finally figured out that approach didn't work. They are two completely different animals. The newer formulations that we have today perform closer to a urethane in my opinion, but I'm not sure the two products will ever be as close as a lot of us would like.
Great video. Can I use other brands of acrylic thinners with createx candy2o? Thanks in advance
I've personally never tried using other thinner brands with Createx products. This can likely be done without creating issues, but I would highly recommend testing on something other than your artwork first to be sure.
I'm new to airbrushing I've got wicked detail paint the reducer that came with it was w100 I'm struggling to airbrush without it being grainy thanks in advance
W100 was an earlier reducer that was phased out around 2010 I think (I could have the year wrong on that). I suspect you purchased a kit that had been on the shelf for a long time. The paint is likely fine. I have bottles that are far older than that and they still spray great. I would recommend getting a bottle of 4011 reducer though. Also, when you mix your paint allow it to sit for about 10 minutes before you spray it. The extra time allows the paint and reducer to really marry into each other which should help resolve the grainy texture you're experiencing.
I'm just here to see if I can use the auto air candies on RC bodies, I usually use Spazstix for my Candies, Faskolor , Pro-Line and Wicked for everything else, but I'm wanting to do more of a Candy Emerald green body for my E-Revo and Spazstix only has Candy Apple Green,and I've already painted 4 or 5 bodies using it. Advice or info will be much appreciated.
I have very little experience painting RC bodies. Having said that, all of the Createx products I've tried on them have adhered just fine. There's no reason why candy2o wouldn't adhere the same as the Wicked does. As far as using candy2o with the other paint brands you mentioned goes, I'd try it on a practice body before you use the combination on a client's body.
If you look at the side of the thinner bottle they have temperature recommendations
Creates Colors 4012 reducer for acrylic paint? I’m just getting into airbrushing 3d models, and am using the cheap Apple Barrel acrylic paint. I have a quart of 4012, and get it for about $14 per quart, so it’s very economical if it works. What do you think?
Createx paint is an acrylic polyurethane, which may be slightly different in composition compared to the Apple Barrel paint you are using. I would think the Createx reducer would work fine with the Apple Barrel paint, but I would suggest experimenting with it on something other than your project first just to be sure.
The consistency of milk has always puzzled me. The milk I have is like water (green cap) or looks like the same consistency!!!
As clear as mud!!!......but not the same consistency lol.
😂 I'm glad I'm not the only one confused by that advice!
What can we add to our Acrylic paints after we've thinned our paints and now have severe adhesion problem. I've thinned my acrylic paints with bottled water, isopropanol alcohol and vegetable glycerin that helps against tip dry. It looks like I've wasted two collection's of acrylic paint!!! I've contacted the company's that actually produce the paints and had no reply. Could I add a clear water based varnish or a strong PVA glue to improve the adhesion. I've had the new airbrush, compressor and other equipment since Christmas and not used it yet, only to test the paints through my airbrush at different strength's and air pressure. To say that I'm frustrated would be a massive understatement. I just want a paint that I can practice with so obviously I'm not buying the expensive paints but will be doing so when I think that I'm ready.
May I take this opportunity to thank you for your help through your videos. They have been so fascinating and at the same time very educational. I can't believe how much that I have learnt along the way
Right where's the second part to this video, I've watched them before but the more times I watch something the more information actually sinks in lol.
Take care my friend 👍😷👍🏴
Hey Andrew! You can find the second part to this video here th-cam.com/video/RHBVX3tLSyA/w-d-xo.html
You can find another video I created that deals with the same subject here th-cam.com/video/_sg48yHf1Mk/w-d-xo.html
I very, very rarely add any additives to my paint that aren't created by the manufacturer for the specific brand of paint I'm using. In my case, I use Createx Colors (Wicked and Illustration) pretty much exclusively. Way back when their automotive line was first introduced, there were a lot of us mixing up our own cocktailed reducers trying to achieve better performance. I was one of those artists too; however, the technology has improved by a huge margin since then and it's no longer necessary. The off the shelf products work incredibly well these days. Adding different additives into your paint, especially anything not designed and tested by the manufacturer can actually create adhesion issues. Over reducing paint can also cause adhesion issues because the binder is being stretched too thin. I'm not saying the rules can never be broken, but it's good advice to learn the rules before you attempt to work around or break them. My best advice is to use a paint manufactured specifically for airbrush use as opposed to hairy brushes.
Adhesion issues are generally caused by poor preparation of the surface being painted rather than the paint in and of itself based on my own experience. There are two types of adhesion we use, mechanical and chemical. We generally start with mechanical adhesion, meaning the surface has been cleaned, scratched with a Scoth-Brite pad or sandpaper and then cleaned again before painting begins. The scratches formed in the sanding process provides a mechanical "tooth" for the paint to bite and adhere to. Chemical adhesion comes into play after that, meaning the paint binds to the layers below it through a chemical process. I discuss all of this in another video that was primarily aimed at paint lifting when masking techniques are used, but the same information applies without masking techniques as well. You can find the video here th-cam.com/video/3tC8CnJfH1k/w-d-xo.html if you're not familiar with what I'm talking about. More often than not, poor prep work is the problem when adhesion issues occur.
Frustration is part of learning sometimes and we've all been there, me included. Again, using an airbrush specific paint may be a little more expensive, but it will lessen the learning curve if you concentrate on learning with what you plan to use. You also use very little paint when airbrushing, especially when practicing, provided you're mixing very small quantities at a time. Your paint should last you a long time if you're not constantly painting large artworks.
I appreciate the kind words my friend! Knowing others are learning from my videos is what keeps me motivated to continue!
Is it ok to use 4011 in water based paints from Lure works. I will be painting soft plastic lures? Thanks
Hi Larry! I can't say for sure because I've never used Lure Works paint. Using 4011 Reducer will probably be fine, but I would recommend experimenting with it on something other than your project first to be sure.
i use Etac..paint is amazing
I agree. Etac is very good! There's a number of really good airbrush paints available. There's also a number of paints available that are not so good in my experience. I use Createx because it works the best for what I do on a daily basis. That doesn't necessarily mean it will work for everyone. I encourage people to try different brands and find what works the best for them.
Just awsome videos!! How ist with their clear coat and thinning?
//Daniel
Sweden
Hey Daniel! Their clear coat is very good for a water-based paint. Thinning depends on whether you're spraying it with a spray gun or airbrush. I'm normally around 10 to 20 percent for a spray gun and 30 to 40 percent for airbrush use.
@@wickedartstudio Hi! Thanks for your answer.
Best airbrush videos on the tube!
@@jacobsson_daniel Thank you so much!
Does this apply to the bcs .5 siphone feed also ?
It does. As you mentioned, the HP-BCS has a slightly larger needle and nozzle set compared to a lot of the gravity feed airbrushes. A higher air pressure setting is also common for artists using a siphon feed airbrush, although that's not a requirement. With a slightly larger needle/nozzle and a higher working air pressure setting, you can get away with less reduction and get good results. The guidelines are the same though. Find the reduction ratio that atomizes paint the best at the air pressure setting you intend to use with the airbrush you intend to use.
You know.........those are good starting points. But everybody's situation is different. Different airbrush's, nozzle size, different air pressure, high humidity parts of the country, ambient air temp, and probably a few other variables. These recommendations are guidelines everybody has to fine tune to get the best results............
Agreed.
Does reducer work with regular craft paints
It would probably work fine, but I've never tried it personally. I'd suggest testing it on something other than your project first to be sure.
Where can I buy a fluid nozzle please
Any airbrush supplier that carries the airbrush you have will likely have parts available too.
lol at the consistency of milk part. that doesn't make sense to me either
Skim milk or whole milk?
lol! Right?
At 9:53 - medium sized is considered 0.35mm (Eclipse) and small is noted as 0.18mm up to 0.30mm (not as less than 0.18mm). I've never come across an airbrush smaller than 0.18mm. Superb advice, as always, many thanks.
Correct, in my opinion anyway. I've always considered a 0.35mm needle and nozzle set as a mid-range airbrush. That size is good for just about anything, including very fine detail in the hands of an experienced artist. It is a very versatile airbrush. Larger needle/nozzle sizes (0.5mm to 0.7mm) are good for covering larger areas quickly, but they are also capable of impressive detail. A needle/nozzle set in the range of 0.18mm to 0.23mm has always been considered more of a detail-oriented brush in my view. There are some airbrushes out there with a needle and nozzle smaller than 0.18mm. I own a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.15mm needle/nozzle as one example. Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!
Fucking hate this shit to many reducers. They need to fix ther label on the bottles
I can't help you with that.
How bout this. Let's stop talking volume and how milk consistency doesn't work. Let's how bout show us how you mix the paint in the airbrush and how you measure the stuff properly. Who cares what createx says. Show up please!
I've actually showed how I mix my paint in multiple videos. I go over it again in part two of this video. th-cam.com/video/RHBVX3tLSyA/w-d-xo.html
Skimmed non skimmen full fat of soya? Nah mate it's not just you honestly! When I get a modeller saying that on a video your like OK amateur!
Good to know I'm not the only one... lol! Thanks Charlie!