You can tell how much softer it is than the back. The grain is trickier to work with knife though. The shape of the lip next to the purfling is beautiful.
Spruce has a lower density than maple because the top must not be too heavy. I usually prefer a density lower than 0.40 for spruce and around 0.60 for maple. A maple lower than 0.60 can also be desirable to reduce weight. Still, it must not be to the detriment of resistance, so the thicknesses must be kept more robust to not lose the fundamental support for the structure of the violin and not to absorb too much vibration energy from the top.
Dear David, Thank you so much for this fabulous video and for all of your informative and beautiful videos. My edgework really needs improvement, and now I think I can really make a step forward!
Greetings Davide, I am currently studying at the Newark School of Violin making in England, I very much enjoy your videos, both in their informative and creative aspects. I do have a question - what is the abrasive ‘sandpaper’ like pad used to finish the rounding of the edgework here? Many thanks, Thomas J
it's sandpaper with foam backing made by 3M: www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/company-uk/3m-products/~/3M-Paper-Sheet-255P/?N=5002385+3292972845&rt=rud Mine is quite old so I do not know if the current product is exactly the same, and probably it is also found in other brands. I like this sandpaper because it perfectly imitates the flexibility and consistency of shark skin that was used by old masters and it doesn't have the terrible stench of fish skin, which I tried to use just to experience and have a comparison. However, I must admit that real shark skin would be more eco-friendly, but I don't know if sharks would be of the same opinion...😊
Davide Sora thank you for your reply! I will visit the website and do some digging about. I have heard of using shark skin and have tried using that of a friends, it’s very interesting but unfortunately he had none to spare! I may get back to you, keep up the great videos :)
😊 Spruce is a wood that is a bit difficult to work because of its inhomogeneity and fragility, the sharpening of the tools is really fundamental to be able to work this wood with confidence and control.
No, the knife for the f-holes is too delicate because it is sharpened with a very acute angle, it is not made for these jobs and solely dedicated to cutting the f-holes. This knife is a bit less pointed, sharpened with a more open cutting edge angle, and with a slightly rounded bevel to better turn in the curves of the corners
@@DanteAlighieri100 You can find an index of all my videos about the making of the violin, in order of construction phase here: davidesora.altervista.org/videos/ The TH-cam channel page does not show all the video previews because there is a numerical limit. Or you can use playlists to make sure you don't miss any
They are common files for metal, with a fine cut (n2 or n3 depending on the brand) and with cross-cut cutting edge 20 cm long. One is semicircular (half-round file) and the other is oval (crossing file). I believe you can find them in any hardware store. Mine are branded F.D. for the half-round and Baiter for the oval, but probably any good brand is fine. Glardon / Vallorbe is another fairly well-known brand: www.dictum.com/en/files-for-metal-working-bahd/glardonvallorbe-crossing-file-cut-1-705031 www.dictum.com/en/files-for-metal-working-bahd/glardonvallorbe-half-round-file-cut-2-705087 The important thing is that they are fine-cut, so as not to be too aggressive with the wood, especially for spruce which is tender and not uniform in density.
The video would be much better if some narrative had been included, otherwise it's very uninformative, as are most violin making videos. If the video person went to a class and the instructor said nothing, would you want your tuition back?
It's true, but consider that these videos are not lessons in a violin making course, they only aim to show in detail how I make my violins. As for a possible didactic value, I am sure that being able to see the real work in detail at the exact moment while it is being carried out is extremely instructive and useful, and also the oldest way of learning.
You can tell how much softer it is than the back. The grain is trickier to work with knife though. The shape of the lip next to the purfling is beautiful.
Spruce has a lower density than maple because the top must not be too heavy. I usually prefer a density lower than 0.40 for spruce and around 0.60 for maple. A maple lower than 0.60 can also be desirable to reduce weight. Still, it must not be to the detriment of resistance, so the thicknesses must be kept more robust to not lose the fundamental support for the structure of the violin and not to absorb too much vibration energy from the top.
Beautiful purfling and edge work, maestro!
Dear David,
Thank you so much for this fabulous video and for all of your informative and beautiful videos. My edgework really needs improvement, and now I think I can really make a step forward!
Thank you for your video, this is the best step by step guide to creating a violin!
Thank you David Exquisite edgework just beautiful thank you. Thank you much. Terry Farrell Lake of the Ozarks Missouri
Thank you!🙏
Very nice work.
Grazie!! E complimenti, come sempre...
Excelso!! Gracias Maestro!!
It's simply exquisite.
Che maravilla!!!!!
Greetings Davide, I am currently studying at the Newark School of Violin making in England, I very much enjoy your videos, both in their informative and creative aspects. I do have a question - what is the abrasive ‘sandpaper’ like pad used to finish the rounding of the edgework here? Many thanks, Thomas J
it's sandpaper with foam backing made by 3M: www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/company-uk/3m-products/~/3M-Paper-Sheet-255P/?N=5002385+3292972845&rt=rud
Mine is quite old so I do not know if the current product is exactly the same, and probably it is also found in other brands.
I like this sandpaper because it perfectly imitates the flexibility and consistency of shark skin that was used by old masters and it doesn't have the terrible stench of fish skin, which I tried to use just to experience and have a comparison. However, I must admit that real shark skin would be more eco-friendly, but I don't know if sharks would be of the same opinion...😊
Davide Sora thank you for your reply! I will visit the website and do some digging about. I have heard of using shark skin and have tried using that of a friends, it’s very interesting but unfortunately he had none to spare! I may get back to you, keep up the great videos :)
2:06 now that is a sharp knife!!
😊 Spruce is a wood that is a bit difficult to work because of its inhomogeneity and fragility, the sharpening of the tools is really fundamental to be able to work this wood with confidence and control.
Как красиво!
Salutations Davide, is that the same knife you used for cutting the f-holes?
No, the knife for the f-holes is too delicate because it is sharpened with a very acute angle, it is not made for these jobs and solely dedicated to cutting the f-holes. This knife is a bit less pointed, sharpened with a more open cutting edge angle, and with a slightly rounded bevel to better turn in the curves of the corners
Thank you very much, and thank you for the channel, it is wonderful. 🙏
@@DanteAlighieri100 You can find an index of all my videos about the making of the violin, in order of construction phase here: davidesora.altervista.org/videos/
The TH-cam channel page does not show all the video previews because there is a numerical limit. Or you can use playlists to make sure you don't miss any
Please tell me where I can find the file you have used. And the model. Thank you!
They are common files for metal, with a fine cut (n2 or n3 depending on the brand) and with cross-cut cutting edge 20 cm long. One is semicircular (half-round file) and the other is oval (crossing file). I believe you can find them in any hardware store. Mine are branded F.D. for the half-round and Baiter for the oval, but probably any good brand is fine. Glardon / Vallorbe is another fairly well-known brand: www.dictum.com/en/files-for-metal-working-bahd/glardonvallorbe-crossing-file-cut-1-705031
www.dictum.com/en/files-for-metal-working-bahd/glardonvallorbe-half-round-file-cut-2-705087
The important thing is that they are fine-cut, so as not to be too aggressive with the wood, especially for spruce which is tender and not uniform in density.
@@DavideSora Grazie mille!
The video would be much better if some narrative had been included, otherwise it's very uninformative, as are most violin making videos. If the video person went to a class and the instructor said nothing, would you want your tuition back?
It's true, but consider that these videos are not lessons in a violin making course, they only aim to show in detail how I make my violins. As for a possible didactic value, I am sure that being able to see the real work in detail at the exact moment while it is being carried out is extremely instructive and useful, and also the oldest way of learning.