Self levelling floor timelapse | Failed and Rectified | Mapei 3240
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2021
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This is our first time attempting self-leveling over a concrete screed slab.
The process involving floor cleaning, building bunds and rails, priming, pouring self-leveling compound. We devided the open-plan floor into 3 main parts to level.
1st Part - kitchen (failed): 7 packs of Mapei 3240
1st Part - kitchen (rectified): 4 packs of Mapei 1210
2nd Part - living: 6 packs of Mapei 3240
3rd Part - living: 4 packs of Mapei 3240
It was quite a thick layer - 21 packs of 25kg in total, as the floor was 30mm out of level over 30m2. We used laser levels to check high points and low points. During pouring compound, we used an aluminium straight edge to spread the compound (we failed the first time without this, we found that this self level compound does not automatically find its level). I used Mapei Ultraplan 3240 self levelling compound and 1210 to rectify the first failed attempt.
In preparation of this, we have watched a lot of useful youtube videos for a good technique to level floor. It was back-breaking hard work, failed at the first attempt, but managed to rectify it and achieved a flat and level floor throughout.
Thanks for watching!
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Thanks so much for this. You really helped me and gave me the confidence to rectify my first attempt. Well if you don’t make mistakes you don’t learn!
Amazing some of the negative comments people posted here :-) thanks for sharing this, your process was clear and I love the honesty regarding rectified. this is the truth, we are not all trade professionals! I am learning all the time and I enjoy doing things myself. I am currently doing a 'rectify' as I bought a 10kg tub thinking it could do my pub shed floor and its not turned out well. Back to the hardware store today for some bigger bags of Mapei. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jack. Appreciate your comment. Yeah learning as we were doing it to be honest, the failed attempt was very stressful, but thanks to all the other youtube videos which gave us ideas to rectify it! Still very glad that we did it ourselves, we saved a lot. And our floor now feels so much more levelled that every time I go to places with unlevelled floors, my feet noticed it! It was the same for us, we needed more bags than we calculated, not sure if it is Mapei or it may be because we didn't prime the kitchen floor enough so part of it was absorbed, not sure.. Anyways, all the best with your floor, I am sure you will get there! Good luck!
@@DIYTimeLapser thank you! keep up the good work. I'm sure you have added value to your place sorting the floor and saved thousands getting outside work in to do it
Pls I need u help me i contracted a bricklayer to refloor a 2 storey building I stand for my family. I got d bricklayer n I thought did a good jib .only for me to see everything cracked . I couldn't sleep because I hired him for my family. Pls is there any how it could be rectify to solidify it. Note d cracks is much and on d storey floor which people say couldn't be dig out because of decoy. Pls I will be glad u help out
@@moscoolstitches9027 sorry to hear that… From what you have written, it’s hard for me to work out what had gone wrong. Is it the self-levelling flooring that cracked or the tiles on top of it cracked? sorry I am not a professional builder, I am afraid I might not be able to give you the right advice…
Very helpful to watch how you rectified after first attempt. Thanks.
Thanks :)
The best way to self level use level quick it’s little expensive but you save so much time and you get your floor level for 100% thanks
At 3:29 in the video, I saw the expense incurred - the thickness of the pour.
Right now, in our area, self-leveling is $30/bag and to achieve that thickness as in your example, it would be a huge number of bags, a small fortune $$.
Thanks for your video. I have decided to alter my original plan. I'm going to rent a heavy-duty floor grinder and grind down all the high spots. The cost of a 1-day rental of the floor grinder is probably 1/20th the cost of the large number of $30/bag self-leveler I would otherwise need if I had to 'fill in' up to the high spots.
If the self-leveler was no so expensive, I wouldn't grind.
Well spotted! That was one of the lowest points in the house, about 20mm lower than the highest point! But don’t forget, at some area, we only needed to fill 1-5mm. We have an area of about 320 sq ft and ended up using 17 bags of 25kg + 4 packs of 20kg. Total was £315 (about $430) on the self levelling alone. We got the compound when it was on promotion - a 25kg pack was only $20, so managed to save a bit from that.
We thought about grinding down the high points too. But annoyingly these high points are located by the edge or corner of our walls or patio door. We then worried about the circular grinder not being able to reach those awkward edges/corners and the time needed to grinding down the 1 inch of concrete. Also renting a grinder here in the uk would cost us $280/day, so we decided to stick with self levelling compound when it was on sale!
But perhaps in your case, floor grinder is the way to go. Hope it all goes well for you.
Hi there! What’s the thing in the end of the screed level ? Is that specially made?
Hi! At the bund side, I have stuck on a rigid metal ‘L’ bracket. And on the wall side, I have stuck on a rigid straight bracket. Both using multiple super strong Gorilla tapes to make sure it doesn’t move at all / come loose.
Thanks for sharing but why specificly you used 1215 the other type?
Thanks. We originally planned to pour minimum 5-24mm to reach the level we wanted, so used 3240 at first(because 3240 compound is suitable for 3-40mm infilling). As you can see, we failed the first attempt at the kitchen side, but luckily it was still 1-8mm lower than the level we wanted, so we had to use 1210 to pour over it to rectify the problem (because this was suitable for 1-20mm infilling). We have asked the supplier if we could pour the 1210 on top, and they said it would be fine as long as the first attempt (3240) was dried and primed.
Hi did you leave a gap along the base of the door or did you push the leveling compound right up against the door. I have a large pvc window in my hall, the pvc base of it rests on my floor and i wondered if i need a gap between it and the leveling compound
Hi, yes we did leave a small 3mm gap along the base of the door threshold by sticking a piece of thin foam against it before pouring the compound. Then after we laid the tiles, we used a white pvc scotia moulding piece to cover the small gap.
@@DIYTimeLapser thanks for the reply👍
So why did it fail the first time? Was it because not enough self leveller was applied?
Thanks
Sorry just seeing this. A number of reasons: 1. Our base floor was very porous, and we didn’t apply enough primer at first( I am guessing that small amount of the moisture from the compound was absorbed by the original floor), we later applied 3 times instead of once. 2. The self-leveller we got wasn’t very self-levelling and our floor has a whopping level difference of 0-30mm, so we later used a long straight edge level to guide the compound. 3. we used a powerdrill at first, it was slow and wasn’t mixing the compound very well, we then bought a proper paddle mixer and it mixed the compound a lot faster and smoother.
Thanks for filming the process it helps lots of people who want to DIY self levelling. Can you let me know how big was the bucket did you use for mixing a bag of 25kg compound? and how many buckets would you pre-mix every time? Thank you very much! 😊
Thank you for watching! The white bucket was a 30-liter. Mixing the 25kg compound we used required 4.5L of water, which filled the bucket to around 3/4. Initially, we had two 30L buckets, intending for one person to pour while the other mixing the next batch. But weight was an issue for me, especially while wearing spiked shoes. So we ended up using one bucket for the entire process of mixing, pouring and repeat. To streamline things, we did have other smaller buckets, pots, and jugs ready with the pre-measured exact amount of water required for each mix before starting. This eliminated the need for measurements during the mixing and pouring step.
@@DIYTimeLapser Thank you for the reply!
Great job. Where did you buy the straight edge?
Thanks, got it online from the toolden website. It is called Faithfull Screeding Level 2.4m.
Did your screening level come with the brackets on the ends for hanging it below the level of the form? I can’t find these anywhere online. Thanks.
@@allthewhey247 hey sorry missed your question. I am probably too late, at the bund side, I have stuck on a rigid metal ‘L’ bracket. And on the wall side, I have stuck on a rigid straight bracket. Both using multiple super strong Gorilla tapes to make sure it doesn’t move at all / come loose.
Hey did you have any issues with the joins at all?
No, we didn’t. we just had to prime the joints very well and be very careful of matching the level of the new self levelling with the old. Also when building bunds, make sure to caulk it well so the self leveller doesn’t escape.
Can this be applied to a garage floor with old epoxy flooring?
wont hold up for vehicle traffic. best to just rent a grinder from home depot and restore the concrete. itll only take about 2-3 hours to get a layer of concrete off. then just vacuum and hose it down and reseal it with a sealer or a good commercial grade epoxy
What primer did you use?
we used mapei primer G
@@DIYTimeLapser ta!
@@DIYTimeLapser thats the wrong primer
@@richardbeadle3945 On the building material supplier’s website, it states that primer G ‘Can be used to prepare cement based surfaces prior to smoothing with self-levelling or smoothing compounds.’
@@DIYTimeLapser look at the technical data sheet for the levelling compound manufacturer and you will see which are the correct primers, primer g is not one of them
The wood you put down did you just use silent along the edges of it then knock it down afterward?
Yes, we used caulk to stick wood down and seal. Mallet to knock it down after. lightly clean the edge with sand paper.
@@DIYTimeLapser thanks for the quick reply and wish me luck haha
@@cjfew Good luck. You can do it!
Really this stuff isn’t meant to fix 1 inch valleys.
I don’t know what you are using, but the one we are using is Mapei ultraplan renovation screed 3240 which is a fibre reinforced compound suitable for infilling differences in thickness between 3-40mm.
Wow you might as well should have left the text invisible.