From Electro and Co. I bought one of there kits and emailed them I'd be using the motor for a go kart not a bike and they included that controller for me. You could probably email them and they'd send you a link to buy it. They are a great company to work with.
Electric and co actually remoted into my computer and did the adjustments. But there were tutorials online. But I ordered the usb dongle from them that allowed the controller to connect to my computer. Once you get into the controller you change the out put order of the yellow green and blue wires. And you adjust the haul sensor position. You can can't just change the physical order of the colored wires because you also have to change the haul sensor number.
For the motor tension, you might want to put the motor on a sled and weld a nut over a through hole so you can adjust tension with a long bolt or threaded rod. Relying on friction left me with a lot of chain issues, and looking back i wish i would've used this idea.
@@SkippyRockGame I didn't think of it until I was fixing a robot arm at work. The belt tensioner we use has a long screw to do just that, and I felt so dumb when I didn't think to do something similar to tension my kart chain
Another option is to mount the motor plate on two door hinges and use bolts pushing against the frame for tension. Plug the welder *directly* into the closest outlet to the circuit breakers, and shut the entire house off, (within reason). Tack the two ground clean pieces together, crank the welder to full tilt boogie and WATCH the weld pool flow the steel together. Start in the middle and weld out if you pull, outside in if you push. Don't stop till you get to the outside or inside then do the other half. The most important thing in welding is to *watch the weld pool flow the two pieces together* and learn how to steer that weld pool. Go slow, it will take your welder a long time to melt that much metal which is why you don't want to stop once you have a pool of molten steel. You can thank me later. ;)
This is awesome, thank you! Makes sense to use the heat from the weld pool to keep everything hot. This was the thickest piece of metal I've tried to weld. I ended up using a 220v stick welder. It's currently holding!
@@SkippyRockGame I truly hope it helped. It almost sounds stupid to say "Pay attention", but those words (watch the weld pool flow) from my community college TIG instructor were the turning point I needed to actually weld metal. Funny thing, that TIG class was back when our cassette collection had just booted the last of our 8-tracks and we were being told these mini-records called discs would change the world. TIG welders cost more than my car so my first welder was a laughable 50 Amp stick welder I learned to use behind the house near the circuit breaker. At work, I mastered oxy-acetylene welding standing under cars welding exhaust. Time passed, and now I weld Hardox 1/2 to 2-inch plates on loader buckets because I'm old and working 2 days a week beats working 5. Never TIG welded again, but I learned 1 valuable thing! ;)
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha... why do people always tend to overlook the simple fact that if a motor is expected to drive wheels with so much power, the motor mounts also have to be able to deal with that amount of power attempting to tear them off? the motor tries to climb the chain. you have to actually consider this, and how it will react. to make the wheels rotate clockwise, it wants to tear itself off anti-clockwise. it also tries to twist on the other axis. as the sprocket is at one end. you have two torques to deal with. and when its slowing down, braking... you have them acting the opposite way. seriously better off to weld a solid plate into the chassis, which will also stop the horrid flex you have right in front of the motor... angle iron? seriously? no double walls or box section or anything? anyway. with the motor mount RIGIDLY attached, you use a strip of steel a bit narrower than the chains rollers as a tensioner. dont need pulleys or sprockets. its a ROLLER chain. and... you need to practice welding, there are a million and one videos, instructionals, diagrams, charts, references... there is NO EXCUSE FOR PUTTING BIRDSHIT DOWN. if you want to do birdshit, then cry that "youre only learning", then actually try and LEARN. and you wont do birdhsit anymore. you dont need a course, or training. you just have to practice and actually WATCH what you are doing. "melt both metals and ensure fusion" really hard, huh? if the motor mount broke in a few seconds, wtf is going to happen when this starts moving under its own power and hits a pothole? i just dont understand how people can do that, lay down birdshit, look at it, and feel some type of pride... let alone take photos of it. asking for critique...
Thanks for watching! I've got the motor mount welded together with a 220v welder and stiffen up the frame around the motor, that's in part 3. I like your simple tensioner idea, I'll look into that.
@@itsnathanoliver why? because you think everything should be sugar coated and syrupy sweet, just like when mummy hugs you and tells you youre her little hero? grow up. the world would be a better place if people told it like it is. also note i gave some advice. that may or may not be taken. its called constructive criticism. id like to see the follow up video. i expect to see some improvements. how about you go take a walk? stretch those flabby hamstrings ;)
When you're done it will be awesome!
Where did you get the control by wire pedal? Thanks
From Electro and Co. I bought one of there kits and emailed them I'd be using the motor for a go kart not a bike and they included that controller for me. You could probably email them and they'd send you a link to buy it. They are a great company to work with.
Thank you.
How did you manage to change the rotation of the motor with the program?
Electric and co actually remoted into my computer and did the adjustments. But there were tutorials online. But I ordered the usb dongle from them that allowed the controller to connect to my computer. Once you get into the controller you change the out put order of the yellow green and blue wires. And you adjust the haul sensor position. You can can't just change the physical order of the colored wires because you also have to change the haul sensor number.
For the motor tension, you might want to put the motor on a sled and weld a nut over a through hole so you can adjust tension with a long bolt or threaded rod. Relying on friction left me with a lot of chain issues, and looking back i wish i would've used this idea.
Holy crap, that's a great idea! And that wouldn't take much work to add that to what I've already made.
@@SkippyRockGame I didn't think of it until I was fixing a robot arm at work. The belt tensioner we use has a long screw to do just that, and I felt so dumb when I didn't think to do something similar to tension my kart chain
Another option is to mount the motor plate on two door hinges and use bolts pushing against the frame for tension.
Plug the welder *directly* into the closest outlet to the circuit breakers, and shut the entire house off, (within reason). Tack the two ground clean pieces together, crank the welder to full tilt boogie and WATCH the weld pool flow the steel together. Start in the middle and weld out if you pull, outside in if you push. Don't stop till you get to the outside or inside then do the other half. The most important thing in welding is to *watch the weld pool flow the two pieces together* and learn how to steer that weld pool. Go slow, it will take your welder a long time to melt that much metal which is why you don't want to stop once you have a pool of molten steel. You can thank me later. ;)
This is awesome, thank you! Makes sense to use the heat from the weld pool to keep everything hot. This was the thickest piece of metal I've tried to weld. I ended up using a 220v stick welder. It's currently holding!
@@SkippyRockGame I truly hope it helped. It almost sounds stupid to say "Pay attention", but those words (watch the weld pool flow) from my community college TIG instructor were the turning point I needed to actually weld metal. Funny thing, that TIG class was back when our cassette collection had just booted the last of our 8-tracks and we were being told these mini-records called discs would change the world. TIG welders cost more than my car so my first welder was a laughable 50 Amp stick welder I learned to use behind the house near the circuit breaker. At work, I mastered oxy-acetylene welding standing under cars welding exhaust. Time passed, and now I weld Hardox 1/2 to 2-inch plates on loader buckets because I'm old and working 2 days a week beats working 5.
Never TIG welded again, but I learned 1 valuable thing! ;)
Nice!
Thanks!
Seat belt!
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha...
why do people always tend to overlook the simple fact that if a motor is expected to drive wheels with so much power, the motor mounts also have to be able to deal with that amount of power attempting to tear them off?
the motor tries to climb the chain. you have to actually consider this, and how it will react. to make the wheels rotate clockwise, it wants to tear itself off anti-clockwise. it also tries to twist on the other axis. as the sprocket is at one end. you have two torques to deal with. and when its slowing down, braking... you have them acting the opposite way.
seriously better off to weld a solid plate into the chassis, which will also stop the horrid flex you have right in front of the motor... angle iron? seriously? no double walls or box section or anything? anyway. with the motor mount RIGIDLY attached, you use a strip of steel a bit narrower than the chains rollers as a tensioner. dont need pulleys or sprockets. its a ROLLER chain.
and... you need to practice welding, there are a million and one videos, instructionals, diagrams, charts, references...
there is NO EXCUSE FOR PUTTING BIRDSHIT DOWN. if you want to do birdshit, then cry that "youre only learning", then actually try and LEARN. and you wont do birdhsit anymore.
you dont need a course, or training. you just have to practice and actually WATCH what you are doing. "melt both metals and ensure fusion" really hard, huh?
if the motor mount broke in a few seconds, wtf is going to happen when this starts moving under its own power and hits a pothole?
i just dont understand how people can do that, lay down birdshit, look at it, and feel some type of pride... let alone take photos of it. asking for critique...
Thanks for watching! I've got the motor mount welded together with a 220v welder and stiffen up the frame around the motor, that's in part 3. I like your simple tensioner idea, I'll look into that.
Jeebus bro. Take a walk.
@@itsnathanoliver why? because you think everything should be sugar coated and syrupy sweet, just like when mummy hugs you and tells you youre her little hero?
grow up. the world would be a better place if people told it like it is.
also note i gave some advice. that may or may not be taken.
its called constructive criticism. id like to see the follow up video. i expect to see some improvements.
how about you go take a walk? stretch those flabby hamstrings ;)
Wow.
I considered the bird shit comment as a positive because the extra weld material was structural to my build!