A joke I heard from the secretary of USSR Embassy ( true story) in '89. " In Soviet Union we have fastest clocks and biggest computers !" Had a good laugh then.
It's interesting that this was made in '83 or later. the circuit board and many of the components look like what I would expect from the 1960s. I'm getting old...
what do you want to know? orange transistor with 3 thin ribbon legs is one the things... apparently google image search of "soviet electronic components" gives loads of photos of pcbs and individual components, which all are almost exactly same, even to the pcb layout and markings... i'm sure we could find some actual method to chat if you're curious about subject... note that my age, 36, doesn't include much of personal history about those
I got a clock just like that, it appears dead, I could only make it beep, but no display at all. It almost looks like the heater doesn't get any voltage. Thanks for posting this video, makes me want to try fixing it again. These old Soviet VFD clocks are legends.
I find old russian electronics very unusual, the components look so different. Most are readable but the space ship transistors are just an unknown. That fresh display made a hell of a difference, im confused why the heaters cant be run on a lower voltage. I would have thought that a lower emmision would make them last, but i know very little about such devices. Beautifull cat, sorry but it is :-D.
The heaters should not run on lower voltage because of the same effect as in vacuum tubes ( valves in British ;). Voltage on anodes is high enough to "tear" electrons from cathode if it's not hot enough, and if it's happening, the oxide layer from cathode ( on VFD's filament is the cathode ) is being sputtered onto the surface of anodes, covering it and lowering the current, also dimming it ( of course phosphor is wearing out too, that's why segments got darker ) higher voltage is allowed due to less harmful effect than under powering, but if the oxides get too hot, it may fall off the cathode or loose it's strong thermoionic effect due to poisoning ( gas absorption by oxides or developing high resistance layer between oxides and cathode ). That's why the heater voltage must be just right. ( sorry for any language errors, I'm Pole and that's not my native language, sadly )
@@sebo0855 There is nothing wrong with your english, you discribed the problems very clearly. I have saved your information to a text file, I may need to refresh my foggy brain one day lol :-D My written english is far from perfect and i am english lol. No one is perfect :-D.
That means you are young person. All russian elektronics is copy on ancient western one :) And if something they made different that means that soviet technology level was unable to copy (like TU-144 an Concorde. Russians managed to steal all drawings except wing. An was unable to make proper one. This is why they used small front wings to make plane stable at low speeds)
Diode gone wild: nice and informative video as always. We have a really old microwave oven at the parents house. It works fine but the VFD is almost unreadable at low daylight as like in the morning or evening. Is there a way to let it shine brighter? For example to raise the heater about 0.1 to 0.2 volts? Or the anode/cathode up to several volts? Or would be the only way to replace the display? As I said that thing is really old, for sure 20 + years. It's a Panasonic. Quality made by Japanese :)
Get the heater voltage to the nominal, check for power supply ripple voltage and check/replace the capacitors, if it's still dimm, replace the display, if you start increasing the voltages it will degrade faster and you'll have problems again (potentially even damaging it to the point where it's not viable to fix)
if it's the entire display that is dim it's probably cathode poisoning, if it's a matter of some segments those are burnt instead... in the case of cathode poisoning they say you can bring the filaments to cherry red by applying an higher voltage with a power supply, cycling like 5 times for the duration of a pair of seconds, this may clean the cathode... before that also check for resistors in series with the filaments that may be burnt... of course check the supply voltage also
I still have one on my nightstand. One day it switched over to 24hr format by itself. There is no switch to change it from 12 to 24 hr format. I took it apart and the glue they used on some of the caps went conductive. The glue was touching a pin on an IC chip. I cleaned the glue off and the clock stayed in 12 hr format.
@@DiscretesignalsI think UxwBill modded one for 24hr mode once. Also, I have a GE 7-4663 from 1987 and a 7-4695 from 1981. I also had a 7-4666 from 1983 bit it didnt work well
Got one of these, older with separate tubes. Checked the chem-capacitor, still more capacity than advertised, and I could not find any leak current, down to the .01 mA range at 50V DC. So, if anyone restores one of these clocks, just replacing them forehand is absolutely HARAM! By the way, single VFDs like this can be found in the Sony digi cube Clockradio from the mid 90s. These were really stuffed inside, interesting.
@@Vladynko1 Oleg? I've ordered from him directly without going through eBay just by emailing him. Saved a ton of money that way. He got arrested for terrorism last year....but seems to be selling things again.
I have Elektronika 1 clock, a bit older, but actually nicer clock of the similar design, with slightly bigger digits, and nice wooden box and clean front. I really like. I bough one from Ebay, from Ukraine, few years ago, because I remember my grandfather had one about 30 years ago, and I always liked it.
@@prathikprashanth2932 sad sad sad or sweet kitty you will be missed. I once lost a pet as well. Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Smartest dog I've ever seen in my life. Not biased but very much so serious. Not the only one that has said that. Not just the folks either. Not just family. More than a handful of others.
I love the old soviet VFDs and Nixies and they last forever if you run them easy. One exception are the clock/calculator tubes like the one that was originally in the clock that use that brown adhesive stuff to secure the pins to contacts on the glass. They are mostly junk now and fail a ton because of the adhesive separating. In my last tube shipment I bought like 25 for 5 bucks because I wanted to see if they were as bad as I heard, and they were 5 bucks for a bunch. Unsurprisingly about half of them are way too fragile for any serious use, and they lose grid/anode connections pretty often, and sometimes the whole bit of adhesive with contacts just separates and completely ruins the tube! I tried a little bit to see if I could fix them but it wasn't worth the time. Just buy the other tubes which are a bit more but well worth it.
@@aaronbrandenburg2441 A sea lion frequency? Oh, you mean "AC Line frequency"! The mains in the UK was always accurate, 50 cycles per second. Or 4 320 000 per day, anyway (if the generators slowed down during the day, they ran them a little bit faster overnight!)
In some areas, line frequency is 60Hz, but it's 50Hz in others. Also, spikes and noise on the line tend to get counted as well, so the clock gains time. Finally, using a crystal allows a battery backup when the power fails.
These displays are designed to run on AC so a DC regulator is actually worse. You will get a voltage gradient across the filament meaning one end of the display runs bright and the other end runs dimmer. It may also reduce the life of the display.
At 15:55 you measure the heater voltage by placing the red test lead on the cathode [filament] pin of the display and the black test lead on the cathode [filament] pin, at the other end of the display. But both these pins are cathodes [negative], shouldn’t you be connecting one of the test leads to a positive pin to get a reading? I’m confused. Please clarify. Thank you
Diode, I bought a broken scientific calculator from the 80's but I'm simply an amateur in electronics, I wish I had half of your knowledge so I could fix it! I found at least one blown transistor in it but I do not know if it's the only thing wrong with it
I wonder if the Soviet chips were RTL, DTL, TTL, or CMOS? And if they are TTL/CMOS, do they have the same pinouts as the non-Soviet variety, or did they change it to avoid a patent-infringement lawsuit?
These VFDs run on ~12-24 volts on the segments and 3.3 volts on the filament. The data works by first powering the filament, then powering the control grid with the higher voltage, and then powering the segments with the same higher voltage.
The anode and grid voltage is I think 27V nominal, it tends to be regulated using three 9V zeners in series. The duty cycle is 7/32 at high brightnes and 2/32 at low brightness. The heater is 5V~ 120mA.
Do you have daylight saving time in the Czech Republic? We've just put our clocks forward in the UK. If you do, it must take a long time to adjust all those clocks in your house.
Yes, we also have it. The last Sunday of March at 2:00 the time goes to 3:00. I programmed most of my microcontroller clocks do this automatically, but the mechanical or vintage clocks have to be shifted manually, of course. But this only happens 2x a year. I have to wind the mechanical clocks every week anyway :).
там можно начинку на жесткой логике заменить на контроллер типа atmega, я иногда так делаю но обычно все наши микросхемы являются функциональными аналогами ваших
I second that I third it and so on don't do it unless you have an isolation Transformer or are you at don't do it at all. Correction just don't do it don't do it don't do it don't do it don't do it...... he did it ______________________
No, it was probably on for 10 years before some old grumpy Russian threw it across the room when it woke him for work one very frosty Dezember morning....lol!
I see a cold green plexiglass and a cyan-turquoise-aqua-teal colored light ... not exactly cyan-turquoise-aqua-teal. This color of light can only be described as a VFD color :).
Average AC is zero.... (for regular sine wave) Edit for those that don't know the RMS (0.707 peak) value of an AC waveform is the equivalent of the DC for power dissipated in a resistive load or heating effect historically.
Hey friends, here you can look at the schematic of Elektronika 2 clock: elektrotanya.com/elektronika_2-05_clock_sch.pdf/download.html P.S. elektrotanya.com is a very useful source of schematics, service manuals and even ROM files for old electronics. Make sure to save a bookmark for future. I think it's Hungarian. It's a good site because unlike other shady sites it doesn't charge you or even ask to subscribe for download. If you have some service manuals or schematics in your archive that are not on the site please upload them there and help others with repairs.
Love the VFD displays not matter is a calc or a wach.I have read, tried and failed sort of "rejuvenation" of this VFD type on an old desktop calc with a hosrt pulsde of DC on the filament in one way and trhen antother to burn impurities or I dont know what on the filmanet. Sort of clean process. Firt time I done it, I got a better brigthness, but for some reason it was a bit un-even ... I fell corageus enough to try it a second time ... wops ... bye bye VFD ..... It almost shaded to nothing. Filamente was ok, I mean, not open. I used s 500mA 12V DC transformer to pulse the filment. Man it went bright LOL
Born in early 1987 in Prague, he developed a passion for electronics in 1993. His family moved to Mělník around this time. At 9 years old, he received his first digital multimeter. Apart from disassembling electronics, he spent his time creating apocalypse-themed charcoal drawings and playing Bio Menace on DOS. Later, he got himself a Win95 PC (and then maybe another one), connected to the Internet and established the domain danyk.wz.cz in 2002 to dump his projects on. (The nickname comes from his name Daniel K. → Daník (his classmates would call him this) → Danyk.) There are over 100 articles published there since. His early videos of shocking experiments, now seen on the _danyk666_ channel, were shot and edited (!) in _VideoDJ_ on his Sony Ericsson K510i, which he enthusiastically showed to friends. He graduated a grammar school in Mělník and went on to study economics in Prague. His attempts to find a wife online failed, but he got a great GF he visited Sydney with in 2014. He moved -to -*-**-* _relatively_ close to his favourite brewery in 2015. He has a dog, Jessie, and a cat, Veritáska and a "secret" TH-cam channel for his alter-ego's mysterious content, on which he sometimes hits the viral jackpot. He loves low-budget films and muic by Rammstein, Iva Frühlingová, Anna K, ABBA, Linkin Park or Evanescence. His favourite places are pubs and waste dumps with old electronics.
@@aaronbrandenburg2441 The deep web... I used Archive.org and I'm also Czech, so following the leads was quite easy for me. A manual depth-first search starting on his website was a good start. Thanks to his long-lived Internet presence and willingness to share I have gathered a lot of information about him. I'm not going to doxx though, just stay a secret admirer... He has a very unique personality and I would love to be his apprentice in electronics. If you want to find out more about his projects, his website (now residing at danyk.cz) is a great resource. His "secret" TH-cam channel I'm not going to link to featured a few popular videos (1M+ views) from 2014, but they got removed in late 2019 for spreading misinformation. I'm convinced he did not want to deceive anyone though, just earn a bit of money for rent and components, desparately resorting to clickbait.
Where I can find replacement chips for Elektronika clock, also the display if mine is faulty? Shipping could be expensive if not from china. I have Elektronika 6 and the upper row is gone and eventually one vertical segment of all digits, after cleaning with alcohol it become totally unresponsive. I'm not sure how to check if the display is faulty or the driver for the display. I don't understand schematics very well.
If one segment is dead or one segment always on in all digits, it tends to be a bad K176ID3 chip, a BCD to 7 segment decoder. Sometimes it can be a broken connection in the display. You can also have 2 segments shorted with each other in the display. Then both light up if any of them should light up. I'd check the K176ID3 first. If you don't have an old stock, you can buy both the display and the chips on ebay.
A joke I heard from the secretary of USSR Embassy ( true story) in '89. " In Soviet Union we have fastest clocks and biggest computers !" Had a good laugh then.
Soviet microcomputers are the biggest in the world.
Ohhh.... yeaa. :) " random nixie in my capacitor box?.... that weired" 🤣😎
xd
I wish random nixies started appearing in my capacitor box... :(
I like the elektronika clocks ,i have three of them.
I often find in the washing machine ...
"So let's make a quick video..."
20mins, laughing
You are the best
Lmao I was about to write this comment
Yes you are the best
Those are the dream clock my uncle has when i was little boy!
Never too long! Love your videos and your accent/cadence. Best wishes from England.
Yep, love from London
I just got an Elektronika 6-15M I'm trying to fix and your videos have really helped me!
maybe this will also help you: elektrotanya.com/elektronika_6-15_clock_sch.pdf/download.html
@@chodnejabko3553 that really helps, thanks!
I have always been a fan of these displays. Thanks for the video
It's interesting that this was made in '83 or later. the circuit board and many of the components look like what I would expect from the 1960s. I'm getting old...
That's what I like about old eastern bloc electronics.
show me what a "normal" electronic watch should look like .
I was thinking the same thing lol
th-cam.com/video/J3MbTVntKbw/w-d-xo.html or search up LCD watch.
oh, my childhood! i remember all of the soviet devices i took apart, and still do to this time sometimes... all the same components in them
Sumptuously! I would like to know more about this
what do you want to know? orange transistor with 3 thin ribbon legs is one the things... apparently google image search of "soviet electronic components" gives loads of photos of pcbs and individual components, which all are almost exactly same, even to the pcb layout and markings... i'm sure we could find some actual method to chat if you're curious about subject... note that my age, 36, doesn't include much of personal history about those
Fantastic job and really interesting. Thank you very much for showing us!
I have Elektronika 4 with the same problem (cracked display) and I soldered a new display and it works :)
Amazing that you can still find a VFD display for it, but since it was written on it Cdelano v SSSR, I guess it must be old stock pre-1991.
I got a clock just like that, it appears dead, I could only make it beep, but no display at all. It almost looks like the heater doesn't get any voltage. Thanks for posting this video, makes me want to try fixing it again. These old Soviet VFD clocks are legends.
I find old russian electronics very unusual, the components look so different.
Most are readable but the space ship transistors are just an unknown.
That fresh display made a hell of a difference, im confused why the heaters cant be run on a lower voltage.
I would have thought that a lower emmision would make them last, but i know very little about such devices.
Beautifull cat, sorry but it is :-D.
The heaters should not run on lower voltage because of the same effect as in vacuum tubes ( valves in British ;).
Voltage on anodes is high enough to "tear" electrons from cathode if it's not hot enough, and if it's happening, the oxide layer from cathode ( on VFD's filament is the cathode ) is being sputtered onto the surface of anodes, covering it and lowering the current, also dimming it ( of course phosphor is wearing out too, that's why segments got darker ) higher voltage is allowed due to less harmful effect than under powering, but if the oxides get too hot, it may fall off the cathode or loose it's strong thermoionic effect due to poisoning ( gas absorption by oxides or developing high resistance layer between oxides and cathode ).
That's why the heater voltage must be just right. ( sorry for any language errors, I'm Pole and that's not my native language, sadly )
@@sebo0855 There is nothing wrong with your english, you discribed the problems very clearly.
I have saved your information to a text file, I may need to refresh my foggy brain one day lol :-D
My written english is far from perfect and i am english lol.
No one is perfect :-D.
That means you are young person. All russian elektronics is copy on ancient western one :) And if something they made different that means that soviet technology level was unable to copy (like TU-144 an Concorde. Russians managed to steal all drawings except wing. An was unable to make proper one. This is why they used small front wings to make plane stable at low speeds)
@@mikasm3717 and put a man in space first.
@@sjefoekel6058 With Fon Braun made rockets :)
Diode gone wild: nice and informative video as always. We have a really old microwave oven at the parents house. It works fine but the VFD is almost unreadable at low daylight as like in the morning or evening. Is there a way to let it shine brighter? For example to raise the heater about 0.1 to 0.2 volts? Or the anode/cathode up to several volts? Or would be the only way to replace the display?
As I said that thing is really old, for sure 20 + years. It's a Panasonic. Quality made by Japanese :)
Get the heater voltage to the nominal, check for power supply ripple voltage and check/replace the capacitors, if it's still dimm, replace the display, if you start increasing the voltages it will degrade faster and you'll have problems again (potentially even damaging it to the point where it's not viable to fix)
if it's the entire display that is dim it's probably cathode poisoning, if it's a matter of some segments those are burnt instead... in the case of cathode poisoning they say you can bring the filaments to cherry red by applying an higher voltage with a power supply, cycling like 5 times for the duration of a pair of seconds, this may clean the cathode... before that also check for resistors in series with the filaments that may be burnt... of course check the supply voltage also
Like this old soviet electronic videos. Thanks
I like these VFD clocks. Where I live, GE clocks from the 80s are common.
I still have one on my nightstand. One day it switched over to 24hr format by itself. There is no switch to change it from 12 to 24 hr format. I took it apart and the glue they used on some of the caps went conductive. The glue was touching a pin on an IC chip. I cleaned the glue off and the clock stayed in 12 hr format.
@@DiscretesignalsI think UxwBill modded one for 24hr mode once. Also, I have a GE 7-4663 from 1987 and a 7-4695 from 1981. I also had a 7-4666 from 1983 bit it didnt work well
Got one of these, older with separate tubes. Checked the chem-capacitor, still more capacity than advertised, and I could not find any leak current, down to the .01 mA range at 50V DC. So, if anyone restores one of these clocks, just replacing them forehand is absolutely HARAM!
By the way, single VFDs like this can be found in the Sony digi cube Clockradio from the mid 90s. These were really stuffed inside, interesting.
Thank you for the videos on the SGTC it helped me build a SGTC that works really well. Sparks that get about a centimeter and a half
How nice that you could find a replacement display for it! Was it difficult to get?
Tx for the video!
I have several boxes of them and they are probably on Ebay too...
@@DiodeGoneWild I ordered 2 years ago via E-bay somewhere in Ukraine- (dealer Oleg Sidorov?). Price with shipping to Slovakia approx. 15euro.
@@Vladynko1 Oleg? I've ordered from him directly without going through eBay just by emailing him. Saved a ton of money that way. He got arrested for terrorism last year....but seems to be selling things again.
I have Elektronika 1 clock, a bit older, but actually nicer clock of the similar design, with slightly bigger digits, and nice wooden box and clean front. I really like. I bough one from Ebay, from Ukraine, few years ago, because I remember my grandfather had one about 30 years ago, and I always liked it.
OUR clock has been fixed.
Nice
I was just about to complain for another video without the cat.. thumbs up! BTW what's the cat name? Diode may be?
We call her Veritáska :).
@@goc9000 the other cat died a long time ago
@@prathikprashanth2932 sad sad sad or sweet kitty you will be missed.
I once lost a pet as well.
Pembroke Welsh Corgi.
Smartest dog I've ever seen in my life.
Not biased but very much so serious.
Not the only one that has said that.
Not just the folks either.
Not just family.
More than a handful of others.
Ah the good old time! easy to fix and amazing sturdy as well! Cheers!
Another great educational video. I love long videos)) Thank you, Diode)
Excellent video.., you are true electronics genius,, Love from India 🇮🇳
A great "short" repair video.
Is it just the camera, or is that center dot not on/flashing?
I love the old soviet VFDs and Nixies and they last forever if you run them easy. One exception are the clock/calculator tubes like the one that was originally in the clock that use that brown adhesive stuff to secure the pins to contacts on the glass. They are mostly junk now and fail a ton because of the adhesive separating. In my last tube shipment I bought like 25 for 5 bucks because I wanted to see if they were as bad as I heard, and they were 5 bucks for a bunch. Unsurprisingly about half of them are way too fragile for any serious use, and they lose grid/anode connections pretty often, and sometimes the whole bit of adhesive with contacts just separates and completely ruins the tube! I tried a little bit to see if I could fix them but it wasn't worth the time. Just buy the other tubes which are a bit more but well worth it.
Very nice video and repair!!!! I like a lot this clock
1983 is an awesome year. That's the year I was born 😬
What's the white substance in the evacuation stem.... I thought it was "rotten" getter material.... but it's white, not silver, in the new one too.
Why does a mains-powered clock need a crystal? Why not just use the frequency of the AC supply for the time reference?
It may be to keep your car going on battery if it has one to keep accurate time and some clocks just use a Crystal instead of a sea lion frequency.
@@aaronbrandenburg2441 A sea lion frequency? Oh, you mean "AC Line frequency"!
The mains in the UK was always accurate, 50 cycles per second. Or 4 320 000 per day, anyway (if the generators slowed down during the day, they ran them a little bit faster overnight!)
In some areas, line frequency is 60Hz, but it's 50Hz in others. Also, spikes and noise on the line tend to get counted as well, so the clock gains time. Finally, using a crystal allows a battery backup when the power fails.
How about using 7805 without using the center tap isn't better?
These displays are designed to run on AC so a DC regulator is actually worse. You will get a voltage gradient across the filament meaning one end of the display runs bright and the other end runs dimmer. It may also reduce the life of the display.
I have Soviet audio amplifier from Elektronika (WK-120 to be precise), very good and reliable equipment :)
At 15:55 you measure the heater voltage by placing the red test lead on the cathode [filament] pin of the display and the black test lead on the cathode [filament] pin, at the other end of the display. But both these pins are cathodes [negative], shouldn’t you be connecting one of the test leads to a positive pin to get a reading? I’m confused. Please clarify. Thank you
From which country do you come
He's from Czech Republic.
Ok thanks
Whats the size of the adjustable capasitor that can adjust the clock? mine dont react on adjustment it always clock always runs fast.
Diode, I bought a broken scientific calculator from the 80's but I'm simply an amateur in electronics, I wish I had half of your knowledge so I could fix it! I found at least one blown transistor in it but I do not know if it's the only thing wrong with it
Very cool old technology.
Nice display 👍
I wonder if the Soviet chips were RTL, DTL, TTL, or CMOS? And if they are TTL/CMOS, do they have the same pinouts as the non-Soviet variety, or did they change it to avoid a patent-infringement lawsuit?
How is the data working for the display. Is there a voltage - how many volts feeding the input for the display. Thanks for your video.
These VFDs run on ~12-24 volts on the segments and 3.3 volts on the filament. The data works by first powering the filament, then powering the control grid with the higher voltage, and then powering the segments with the same higher voltage.
The anode and grid voltage is I think 27V nominal, it tends to be regulated using three 9V zeners in series. The duty cycle is 7/32 at high brightnes and 2/32 at low brightness. The heater is 5V~ 120mA.
@@retropcs88 Thank you.. Dekuji.
Do you have any with glass encapsulated crystals?
Unfortunately I don't have any. Just the crystals alone.
Do you have daylight saving time in the Czech Republic? We've just put our clocks forward in the UK. If you do, it must take a long time to adjust all those clocks in your house.
Yes, we also have it. The last Sunday of March at 2:00 the time goes to 3:00. I programmed most of my microcontroller clocks do this automatically, but the mechanical or vintage clocks have to be shifted manually, of course. But this only happens 2x a year. I have to wind the mechanical clocks every week anyway :).
там можно начинку на жесткой логике заменить на контроллер типа atmega, я иногда так делаю но обычно все наши микросхемы являются функциональными аналогами ваших
And you basically ruin it
So when you hear transformer hum, is it usually a bad capacitor on the power supply?
No, but when you hear the loudspeaker hum it usually is.
So many clocks... are you soviet Dr. Brown?
What's going on whit TESLA COIL project???
We are waiting for the part 3 of the tesla coil video .....
nice video but it is bad practice to touch anything that is connected to 220V. you never know what is going on, especially if it is broke.
I second that I third it and so on don't do it unless you have an isolation Transformer or are you at don't do it at all. Correction just don't do it don't do it don't do it don't do it don't do it......
he did it ______________________
Конденсаторы надо было еще 1983 году заменить.
Can you buy these still?
Eh, I'm gonna go watch SeleniumRectifierGoneStinky instead.
Imagine his narration instead of Morgan Freeman :)
how r u ?? r u safe amid coronavirus?
learn to spell
I don't have it yet, or maybe I had it with almost no symptoms, who knows....
Where can i buy this display?
How did you get spare new screen?
Yes please tell yes please do it yes please to okay okay yes yes yes yes yes
Sir I need one vft clock where it available
Where did you study electrical engineering?
That clock could have been on continously for 20-30 plus years, no wonder the old VFD is burned.
No, it was probably on for 10 years before some old grumpy Russian threw it across the room when it woke him for work one very frosty Dezember morning....lol!
Hey does anyone have any thought on that wire only connected at one end as he says antenna? Please comment thanks ahead of time.
In soviet rusia you give time to clock.
Green plexiglass? I see it blue am I wrong?
I see a cold green plexiglass and a cyan-turquoise-aqua-teal colored light ... not exactly cyan-turquoise-aqua-teal. This color of light can only be described as a VFD color :).
@@DiodeGoneWild 😄 It was an interesting video I never saw a clock like this in real life.
I love your channel
Average AC is zero.... (for regular sine wave)
Edit for those that don't know the RMS (0.707 peak) value of an AC waveform is the equivalent of the DC for power dissipated in a resistive load or heating effect historically.
kotek wrócił :)
Hey friends, here you can look at the schematic of Elektronika 2 clock:
elektrotanya.com/elektronika_2-05_clock_sch.pdf/download.html
P.S.
elektrotanya.com is a very useful source of schematics, service manuals and even ROM files for old electronics. Make sure to save a bookmark for future. I think it's Hungarian. It's a good site because unlike other shady sites it doesn't charge you or even ask to subscribe for download. If you have some service manuals or schematics in your archive that are not on the site please upload them there and help others with repairs.
Больше соли! (More salt!)
А что, так пресно?
Gotta love Russian auto routing on that silkscreen.
Soviet microchips are the biggest microchips in the world 😀
So you're saying they are almost forty years old? Oh crab, that's a lot!
I also have 1978 ones that still work. And some 1962 geiger counters that still work. And some 1890 thermometers that still works :).
@@DiodeGoneWild «that's weird» © DGW
☺ I'm subscribed to your channel for a year only, although this has been long enough to realize that I should expect various pieces of technology on a verge of extinction.
And thank you for what you're doing, it's really interesting to watch you digging into these devices.
Love the VFD displays not matter is a calc or a wach.I have read, tried and failed sort of "rejuvenation" of this VFD type on an old desktop calc with a hosrt pulsde of DC on the filament in one way and trhen antother to burn impurities or I dont know what on the filmanet. Sort of clean process. Firt time I done it, I got a better brigthness, but for some reason it was a bit un-even ... I fell corageus enough to try it a second time ... wops ... bye bye VFD ..... It almost shaded to nothing. Filamente was ok, I mean, not open. I used s 500mA 12V DC transformer to pulse the filment. Man it went bright LOL
Cat looks very young
Tell us more about your childhood!
You should go on his website and see his childhood drawings, they're amazing.
Born in early 1987 in Prague, he developed a passion for electronics in 1993. His family moved to Mělník around this time. At 9 years old, he received his first digital multimeter. Apart from disassembling electronics, he spent his time creating apocalypse-themed charcoal drawings and playing Bio Menace on DOS. Later, he got himself a Win95 PC (and then maybe another one), connected to the Internet and established the domain danyk.wz.cz in 2002 to dump his projects on. (The nickname comes from his name Daniel K. → Daník (his classmates would call him this) → Danyk.) There are over 100 articles published there since. His early videos of shocking experiments, now seen on the _danyk666_ channel, were shot and edited (!) in _VideoDJ_ on his Sony Ericsson K510i, which he enthusiastically showed to friends. He graduated a grammar school in Mělník and went on to study economics in Prague. His attempts to find a wife online failed, but he got a great GF he visited Sydney with in 2014. He moved -to -*-**-* _relatively_ close to his favourite brewery in 2015. He has a dog, Jessie, and a cat, Veritáska and a "secret" TH-cam channel for his alter-ego's mysterious content, on which he sometimes hits the viral jackpot. He loves low-budget films and muic by Rammstein, Iva Frühlingová, Anna K, ABBA, Linkin Park or Evanescence. His favourite places are pubs and waste dumps with old electronics.
@@vaclavtrpisovsky w h a t ?????????
@@aaronbrandenburg2441 The deep web... I used Archive.org and I'm also Czech, so following the leads was quite easy for me. A manual depth-first search starting on his website was a good start. Thanks to his long-lived Internet presence and willingness to share I have gathered a lot of information about him. I'm not going to doxx though, just stay a secret admirer... He has a very unique personality and I would love to be his apprentice in electronics. If you want to find out more about his projects, his website (now residing at danyk.cz) is a great resource. His "secret" TH-cam channel I'm not going to link to featured a few popular videos (1M+ views) from 2014, but they got removed in late 2019 for spreading misinformation. I'm convinced he did not want to deceive anyone though, just earn a bit of money for rent and components, desparately resorting to clickbait.
Nakarmić kota, i robić dłuższe filmy ;)
Where I can find replacement chips for Elektronika clock, also the display if mine is faulty? Shipping could be expensive if not from china. I have Elektronika 6 and the upper row is gone and eventually one vertical segment of all digits, after cleaning with alcohol it become totally unresponsive. I'm not sure how to check if the display is faulty or the driver for the display. I don't understand schematics very well.
If one segment is dead or one segment always on in all digits, it tends to be a bad K176ID3 chip, a BCD to 7 segment decoder. Sometimes it can be a broken connection in the display. You can also have 2 segments shorted with each other in the display. Then both light up if any of them should light up. I'd check the K176ID3 first. If you don't have an old stock, you can buy both the display and the chips on ebay.
jaka to rasa kota ?
Good 💯❤️👌👍
сердечку тепло
Subscribed
Nice clog :)
9:33 and here's my clock on the wall... HAHAHA!
are your soviet watches too?)
👍🙏
9:57 delay-line 😂
I have a similar clock!
I am not surprised the Russians don't use the alarm function on the clock. They would be too drunk to hear it lol :p
Title edited "Basicly"
got it....
I have Electronica 7 at home
ELEKTRONIKA 2 from CCCP
Hello baldi
Tesla coil part 3
Варвары изучают как работает Советская техника.
О ещё один из под печки выпрыгнул
5:04 face reviling
If you want to see him, just visit danyk.cz and about me...
9:43 helo
Oh no, I sought this woz gowink to bee an Ayprl fuels vidio... Thats dissapointing...
могу продать несколько килограммов советских резисторов, диодов и транзисторов
Čech socialistickou angličtinou popisuje ruský výrobek z čínských součástek :-D
I'm the 800th viewer
First!!! 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻