Wow! That's a great project and a nostalgia trip for me. We made one of these as student apprentices in the early 1980s. A team of us designed and made it over a 2 week project. Ours was slicker, of course ... according to my rose-tinted memory!
I still use this little machine a lot. Yes, I'm sure there are lots of improvements that can be made. I've since added a spring to the back that pulls the handle back up (that detent thing didn't work well in the end). And modified the chute were the plastic is loaded.
I just discovered your channel and it's absolute gold! I have always thought of gear hobbing as black magic. Watching an "amateur" doing it makes it all the more approachable. Please keep up the good work.
I went to your playlist - you have a technically competent approach to the implementation of your ideas. Very clean workshop, workbench and all the tools. Probably your specialty is a locksmith toolmaker? It is a pleasure to look at the work done with diligence and without errors in compliance with the technological process. Unfortunately, in Russia, ingenuity and mental work - which is for the benefit of people, is not appreciated by the leadership. But as I usually say-food for the mind is often more important than food for the stomach. But without food for the stomach, there will be no food for the mind... I have subscribed to your channel. I wish happiness and prosperity for you.
Thanks very much for the compliments! No, I'm not a toolmaker and I've had only little formal training in engineering, I'm really just an enthusiast. Also my workshop isn't always as clean and organised as it appears in the videos!
Liked the clip. Well thought out and clever application. The fellow that was doing all of this is apparently aware of the specific stiffness of the steel stock that he was working with. As I previously observed, 'clever fellow.
Well done. I built the one from Vincent Gingery's book "secrets of Building a Plastic injection molding Machine" It has very limited capacity, but it does work on recycled plastic.
Super Lathe work. I cannot imagine to make such a desktop injection molding equipment since the skill expressed by is superb. What would be the cost to make such a machine :this I wish to know if affordable I will think of it. I am doing a model train project at home in which I need to have certain components.
I have a small power hacksaw and of course grinders etc. But I just like sawing things by hand, it's less messy and often quicker as I can just grab the saw and there's no setup or changing discs needed.
@@AndysMachines I need a better hacksaw blade. I'll use a hack saw if it's under 3/8" or if it's too short to put in the chop saw.. or if it's after 10 at night and I can't run loud tools haha
Not always, I've made a lot of moulds with just a manual lathe and/or milling machine, even for my bigger automatic injection moulder complete with ejector pins etc.
Hi Andy. Excellent video may I say, and just as excellent a machine in this video. Just came across your channel and have subscribed, actually after the first video on the 'improved injection moulding machine'. So, have watched a few of the back catalogue too. Will watch a few more later. Regards Mark in the UK
I'm really just an enthusiast and still have a lot to learn! Though this little machine did turn out very well, I use it a lot and it's very effective.
I wanted to make a square plug with a shoulder and a tapped hole in it centred on it's axis. Hex bar allows me to hold it in the mill vice and index it by 90° by clamping on the flats, then the corners. And I can also hold it in the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe without having to change to the 4-jaw and dial it in. I can't do both of those operations with either square or round bar without some additional setup, plus I probably just had the hex bar to hand and it was the most convenient thing to use.
It's just a Far Eastern made 10" bench lathe that's sold under various brands. There are more modern versions of it now with variable speed etc. but all the same castings. I've had mine for 20 years.
Between the barrel and the rod there is quite a generous clearance, around 1mm. On the end of the rod is a bronze piston about 10mm long, this has a tighter clearance, around 0.05 -0.1mm though you could probably get away with more, 0.5mm or even more. The plastic directly under the piston is usually not molten unless you let the machine run low or leave it to sit for too long between shots, so it's unlikely plastic will bypass the piston even with a fairly big gap.
I would like to ask you a question please: why you create a sleeve for the heating bands and do not fix them straight on the tube in wich the plastic melts ? to what serves A BARREL HEATER SLEEVE? thank you
You can put the heater straight on the barrel, but there are many advantages to putting a sleeve in between. This is quite a small barrel so only a smaller less powerful heater would fit directly, the sleeve means I can use any convenient diameter heater band. The sleeve also provides more thermal mass and even distribution of the heat since it is aluminium which conducts heat well. And it also provides somewhere to mount the thermocouple which will give a more accurate reading than trying to put it in contact with the barrel itself.
Well spotted! At the time I had partially converted that milling machine to CNC and this cut was done under CNC control. I still mostly used the machine manually though and it wasn't an ideal setup for both. I've since changed it into a dedicated CNC mill and got another larger machine for manual use. I will often just saw and file a radius like this, but as I had 4 to do it was worth using the CNC.
I didn't draw up full plans when I built this machine, but I did a 3D .stl drawing from which you can take measurements, I've uploaded this to my Patreon page (www.patreon.com/AndysMachines).
@@Microdose_RC I've thought about doing this, but firstly I don't have time right now to produce machines for sale and secondly I'm put off by the legal side (compliance, safety, liability etc..). So I probably wouldn't be able to sell them as finished machines, they would probably be kits of parts you would have assemble yourself.
If there's enough interest I could look at putting together some kits, they would need assembly. Due to complex legal requirements I can't sell completed working machines.
@@AndysMachines I don't need any working machines. just the parts, which required milling/welding/... and cant be bought locally. I need it for looking at them only.
It's one of these: www.chesterhobbystore.com/shop/metalworking-machines/lathes/db10vs-super-lathe/ Though mine is an older model without the variable speed. The same identical castings (far eastern) are used on a lot of different manufacturers lathes of this size.
@@garciapatrickdaniels.7568 Yes I expect so, it will just take an extra couple of minutes to heat up initially. The 150W band is only ticking over when it's up to 230°C, it would go a lot hotter.
Wow! That's a great project and a nostalgia trip for me. We made one of these as student apprentices in the early 1980s. A team of us designed and made it over a 2 week project. Ours was slicker, of course ... according to my rose-tinted memory!
I still use this little machine a lot. Yes, I'm sure there are lots of improvements that can be made. I've since added a spring to the back that pulls the handle back up (that detent thing didn't work well in the end). And modified the chute were the plastic is loaded.
I just discovered your channel and it's absolute gold! I have always thought of gear hobbing as black magic. Watching an "amateur" doing it makes it all the more approachable. Please keep up the good work.
I went to your playlist - you have a technically competent approach to the implementation of your ideas. Very clean workshop, workbench and all the tools. Probably your specialty is a locksmith toolmaker? It is a pleasure to look at the work done with diligence and without errors in compliance with the technological process. Unfortunately, in Russia, ingenuity and mental work - which is for the benefit of people, is not appreciated by the leadership. But as I usually say-food for the mind is often more important than food for the stomach. But without food for the stomach, there will be no food for the mind... I have subscribed to your channel. I wish happiness and prosperity for you.
Thanks very much for the compliments! No, I'm not a toolmaker and I've had only little formal training in engineering, I'm really just an enthusiast. Also my workshop isn't always as clean and organised as it appears in the videos!
Liked the clip. Well thought out and clever application. The fellow that was doing all of this is apparently aware of the specific stiffness of the steel stock that he was working with. As I previously observed, 'clever fellow.
this video have more manufacturing knowledge than 4 years of engineering syllabus
Jesus man, you work terrifyingly close to the chuck.
Also awesome build.
It's the only way! The more stick-out the more flex and vibration there is. I try and stay at least 0.2mm away from the jaws 😁
@@AndysMachines 😅
Amazing skills! You can machine-up anything! Learned some new techniques watching this! Thank you!
This is the best injection machine build I have seen so far.
No lo creerán pero vi el video 3 veces, me quedo gustando que parecía tomando Coca Cola bien fría en el desierto
Impressive amount of fabrication. I must say that I’m envious of the number of tools and the skills you possess!
That was mind blowing!! Love it!
Superb.
Lot of hardwork went into this
😁
you are quite the machinist - right on
Well done. I built the one from Vincent Gingery's book "secrets of Building a Plastic injection molding Machine" It has very limited capacity, but it does work on recycled plastic.
Excellent project, I enjoyed the video from beginning to end, my respects !!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it😊
The way you made the machine is awesome great job keep it up
Your sawing arm has GOT to be huge. 💪
excellent work, a true professional
Very nice Sir
very good
finally a build video with some good music! awesome machine too
How taste differs ...
Well, good for you, but that beat makes me crazy, hehehe.
Anyways, the machining is great, so I have to push through it:)
Super Lathe work. I cannot imagine to make such a desktop injection molding equipment since the skill expressed by is superb. What would be the cost to make such a machine :this I wish to know if affordable I will think of it. I am doing a model train project at home in which I need to have certain components.
Add on a crank operated mold open/ejecting pin setup....
Who needs a workout when you have a hacksaw! lol.. What I'd give for a lathe that can cut threads!
I have a small power hacksaw and of course grinders etc. But I just like sawing things by hand, it's less messy and often quicker as I can just grab the saw and there's no setup or changing discs needed.
@@AndysMachines I need a better hacksaw blade. I'll use a hack saw if it's under 3/8" or if it's too short to put in the chop saw.. or if it's after 10 at night and I can't run loud tools haha
That was amazing !!!!
Great tool.
Too bad need CNC machine for molds.
Not always, I've made a lot of moulds with just a manual lathe and/or milling machine, even for my bigger automatic injection moulder complete with ejector pins etc.
Excellent well made machine, like it a lot
Hi Andy. Excellent video may I say, and just as excellent a machine in this video.
Just came across your channel and have subscribed, actually after the first video on the 'improved injection moulding machine'. So, have watched a few of the back catalogue too.
Will watch a few more later.
Regards Mark in the UK
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you liked it!
very impressive piece of work ...have you worked in the injection moulding business or is that a very talented home hobbiest at work
I'm really just an enthusiast and still have a lot to learn! Though this little machine did turn out very well, I use it a lot and it's very effective.
@@AndysMachines do you have some recommended source(s) about molding and molding machines? Would be glad to if you can share it with us.
Félicitations for the quality job and good ideas of creating, un good moment with you. Tank you very much.
Broaching, cool!
I'm a little confused about milling the hex rod square, then using it to plug square tubing?
I wanted to make a square plug with a shoulder and a tapped hole in it centred on it's axis. Hex bar allows me to hold it in the mill vice and index it by 90° by clamping on the flats, then the corners. And I can also hold it in the 3-jaw chuck on the lathe without having to change to the 4-jaw and dial it in. I can't do both of those operations with either square or round bar without some additional setup, plus I probably just had the hex bar to hand and it was the most convenient thing to use.
@@AndysMachines Ah! That makes sense. Thank you!
Great idea but I don't have a lathe as many of us dont
How are you heating the pellets and will you offer this type of product for sale?
Some really nice engineering there. What model lathe is that one?
It's just a Far Eastern made 10" bench lathe that's sold under various brands. There are more modern versions of it now with variable speed etc. but all the same castings. I've had mine for 20 years.
@@AndysMachines Thanks, I'll look out for one. Second hand would be alright if yours had lasted that long.
What tolerance did you use between the barrel and the rod?
Between the barrel and the rod there is quite a generous clearance, around 1mm. On the end of the rod is a bronze piston about 10mm long, this has a tighter clearance, around 0.05 -0.1mm though you could probably get away with more, 0.5mm or even more. The plastic directly under the piston is usually not molten unless you let the machine run low or leave it to sit for too long between shots, so it's unlikely plastic will bypass the piston even with a fairly big gap.
I was totally hooked once the knurled handled started. Can we buy the components?
I would like to ask you a question please: why you create a sleeve for the heating bands and do not fix them straight on the tube in wich the plastic melts ? to what serves A BARREL HEATER SLEEVE? thank you
You can put the heater straight on the barrel, but there are many advantages to putting a sleeve in between. This is quite a small barrel so only a smaller less powerful heater would fit directly, the sleeve means I can use any convenient diameter heater band. The sleeve also provides more thermal mass and even distribution of the heat since it is aluminium which conducts heat well. And it also provides somewhere to mount the thermocouple which will give a more accurate reading than trying to put it in contact with the barrel itself.
@@AndysMachines thank you Mr. Andy. Greeting from Tunisia
Is it possible share the dimensional drawings of each components?
I have drawings and measurements for this machine on Patreon
niiice work andy see you in the pp forums
A pneumatic cylinder above and attached to the piston rod, would have saved one hell of a lot of work ! a la Austin Allen ....look it up on google
Umm... Have you seen my other builds? th-cam.com/video/WCEvjRdkjrU/w-d-xo.html
How did you do the radius on the end at 15 mins 20 secs into the video?? awesome job though.
Well spotted! At the time I had partially converted that milling machine to CNC and this cut was done under CNC control. I still mostly used the machine manually though and it wasn't an ideal setup for both. I've since changed it into a dedicated CNC mill and got another larger machine for manual use. I will often just saw and file a radius like this, but as I had 4 to do it was worth using the CNC.
¿Cual es el precio?
I love it!
How much do you sell for one? Can it do rubber?
douglas
awesome.... goog idea
can you share the plan? i really want to build one.
I didn't draw up full plans when I built this machine, but I did a 3D .stl drawing from which you can take measurements, I've uploaded this to my Patreon page (www.patreon.com/AndysMachines).
@@AndysMachines Do you sell finished machines by chance? Thanks
@@Microdose_RC I've thought about doing this, but firstly I don't have time right now to produce machines for sale and secondly I'm put off by the legal side (compliance, safety, liability etc..). So I probably wouldn't be able to sell them as finished machines, they would probably be kits of parts you would have assemble yourself.
@@AndysMachines I'd be interested in purchasing a kit...
Sensacional !
are you selling kits ?
If there's enough interest I could look at putting together some kits, they would need assembly. Due to complex legal requirements I can't sell completed working machines.
@@AndysMachines I don't need any working machines. just the parts, which required milling/welding/... and cant be bought locally. I need it for looking at them only.
what exact model is that lathe machine
It's one of these:
www.chesterhobbystore.com/shop/metalworking-machines/lathes/db10vs-super-lathe/
Though mine is an older model without the variable speed. The same identical castings (far eastern) are used on a lot of different manufacturers lathes of this size.
How many watts is your heating element?
It's 150 Watts. Heats up from cold in about 10 minutes and has no problem keeping up, it will melt the plastic as fast as I can inject items.
Can 120watts work?
@@garciapatrickdaniels.7568 Yes I expect so, it will just take an extra couple of minutes to heat up initially. The 150W band is only ticking over when it's up to 230°C, it would go a lot hotter.
(35x45mm) 150 watts heater band is enough to reach 230 deg celusis to reach. Which one is mica or ceramic?
Hii