As a Hawaiian surfer myself, here in Hawaiʻi, I am so proud of what our sport has become. As a sport of my kūpuna (ancestors) we could have only dreamed to share our beloved “ocean-sliding” practice with the rest of the world and have them participate in the Hawaiian art of “heʻe nalu”, and here it is now, one of the most profound, famous, and unique water sports out there. Do not forget, ALOHA must always he present while surfing, think about other, enjoy the ocean, and most of all have fun! Mahalo from Hawaiʻi.
That is my neighborhood break in the opening scene(s). Im surprised I'm not in that lineup, or am I since I'm there almost daily?! I was hoping there would be some local interviews with Yater and Al Merrick who are pioneers in their own right.
This is an extremely condensed "history of surfboards" and even more condensed, shallow history of surfing itself. I guess that's what we can expect from the bite-size feature style of CBS Sunday Morning show segments. At least it's not totally insulting by showing Gidget movie clips or something equally lame. It's worth noting that the surfboard shaper is subjecting himself to constant assault by particles released as he digs into the foam, which are harmful to the skin and the lungs if you breathe it in (most shapers wear masks, which are only partially protective). The fiberglass and polyester resin of the next stage of surfboard construction are even more hazardous to the producer and the environment. I know it would bum out the viewers to hear about such reality. But hey, surfing is still a great sport, and being in the ocean is one way to get closer to nature. We could all benefit from more of that.
If you are going to report the history of surfboard. Interview Polynesian surfers who has a long family history of surfing. Not the European-Americans.
As a Hawaiian surfer myself, here in Hawaiʻi, I am so proud of what our sport has become. As a sport of my kūpuna (ancestors) we could have only dreamed to share our beloved “ocean-sliding” practice with the rest of the world and have them participate in the Hawaiian art of “heʻe nalu”, and here it is now, one of the most profound, famous, and unique water sports out there. Do not forget, ALOHA must always he present while surfing, think about other, enjoy the ocean, and most of all have fun! Mahalo from Hawaiʻi.
The Endless Summer is a must see film for anyone who likes surfing.
Members of my family have been surfing in San Diego since world war One . Modern surfboards are so much easier ⚡
I forgot how many times I was in and out of Don Hobie's surfboard shop in Huntington Beach. California in the late 1960's
That is my neighborhood break in the opening scene(s). Im surprised I'm not in that lineup, or am I since I'm there almost daily?!
I was hoping there would be some local interviews with Yater and Al Merrick who are pioneers in their own right.
I am from Hawaii. My friend crafts colorful artistic surfboards for a living.
Lest we forget surf music is pretty darn cool. 😎 🏄♂️
Doheny was once a hot spot for surfing, however the rock breakwater that enclosed the marina mucked it up 😥
🤙🏻
🤙
So much better than the 9-5 cubicle modern slavery.
If you can earn a living doing it.
does anyone know the name of the song that closes this segment at 4:03?
Hawaii inspired Santa Cruz California I was a shaper , i had a Messy shop, made some Sick Sticks pot was $10 a lid Peace Bro !
Santa Cruzan here! I was surprised that there was no mention of the fact that Hawaiians first brought surfing here!
Does anyone know the name of this song at the beginning of this segment?
Ventures
🤙🏼
I thought modern surf board was out of Hawaii in the 1940s.😊
Killed me when she said “ used to be a boys club”....kidding me right, you mean it isn’t anymore?
🤙🏽
Anyone know the song at 0:35? Thx :)
@@mililaniman thank you so much! Have a great week.
@@amym.483 The song is "Sleepwalk" . I am sorry for the error,
@@mililaniman yes, thank you! No worries!
This is an extremely condensed "history of surfboards" and even more condensed, shallow history of surfing itself. I guess that's what we can expect from the bite-size feature style of CBS Sunday Morning show segments. At least it's not totally insulting by showing Gidget movie clips or something equally lame. It's worth noting that the surfboard shaper is subjecting himself to constant assault by particles released as he digs into the foam, which are harmful to the skin and the lungs if you breathe it in (most shapers wear masks, which are only partially protective). The fiberglass and polyester resin of the next stage of surfboard construction are even more hazardous to the producer and the environment. I know it would bum out the viewers to hear about such reality. But hey, surfing is still a great sport, and being in the ocean is one way to get closer to nature. We could all benefit from more of that.
It’s not a documentary. Chill out
If you are going to report the history of surfboard. Interview Polynesian surfers who has a long family history of surfing. Not the European-Americans.
CBS just made surfing UNcool...too crowded... gapers all over.
🤙🏼