What does a UV Sterilizer actually do? What does UV not do? Is it worth the investment?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2020
- Will a UV Sterilizer cure Ich? Will a UV Sterilizer prevent Ich? Can UV kill or treat algae? When choosing the right tool for the right job, we need to know what a UV Sterilizer can and can't do so we know that we are using one properly. Today we help answer those questions!
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Ich eradication vs. Ich management by Humblefish
www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
Honestly.. UV was the best piece of equipment i ever put on my tank. I struggled with ich for years. Had it wipe out a fully stocked 150 twice. I was religious about QT during that time as well and it worked... until it didn't. Not to mention i probably lost just as many fish to QT. Just being honest. I went the over-sized UV route ( got it off the brs website :) and it worked. It just plain and simple worked. My fish stopped showing any sign of ich, they look magnificent, not just alive but their skin is perfect and vibrant and they just seem strong and happy. I don't QT anymore.. mainly cause i cant add anymore fish to my system cause i'm not having to constantly replace dead fish..
Are you running it constantly with your filters are only when cloudy and fish have ick?
That's badass.
I only get Ich when I move my rocks around or add new rocks and these damn Tangs love getting ich every chance they get!
Tangs love ich
I see a bunch of questions about when UV should be introduced. UV induces Thymine Dimers which are a form of DNA damage, as noted in the video; anything passing through the UV chamber can be effected. Any and all organizims can be damaged by UV (it's why we wear sunscreen) as UV is indiscriminate twoards anything passing through the plumbing.
This does mean it can kill "benifical" bacteria early in a cycle. But once those beneficials are established in a bio-film, then introduce UV.
Beyond that, great video
Without a doubt,best videos on TH-cam. Knowledgeable,and to the point! Thanks
I set up a 75 FOLR tank 3 months ago; sump; skimmer and UV run constantly. Started with mature live rock from LFS (never out of water brought home in buckets of water). Caribsea ocean direct live sand and all natural sea water. I have 13 fish; no losses; 3 anemones all doing great. To this day, I’ve never had an Algae bloom or diatom stage. I rarely have any algae on the class; never any on back overflow. If I ever cleaned the glass, I wouldn’t see a difference. Even the rock has never gotten darker which a lot of rock does as it’s been in a tank with floating algae. Im convinced my lack of algae on the rock and glass is due to the UV. It’s made my tank very beautiful
Gotta say these "5 minute" guides are much more effective than the ultra long "round table discussions", am I feeding too much? Yeah I don't have an hour for that.
thanks! I think the different formats hit different people.
@@BRStv Oh yeah absolutely, I'm a big fan of in your face "here's information" with no idle "chit chat" (e.g. live streams), which is why I'm a fan of the 5 minute and investigate series. But all of the stuff you put out is great, I just don't have time to dedicate to watching that much, now in cases where you give time stamps for when you talk about everything and I can just skip around that's great. But you keep being you, you're doing a good job!
@@BRStv I agree. I like the short format for when I just have a few minutes to relax at my PC and the longer formats/discussions for when I'm doing things such as working out or prolonged tank maintenance. When I am doing lengthy activities, I don't want to have to choose a video to watch every 5 or 10 minutes. In those cases, I prefer just choosing one of your hour long video discussions and hope it last throughout my activity.
@@BRStv I actually enjoy the hour long chats, I usually listen in the background and it provides alot more of the 'why' information and I appreciate that.
Awesome - 5(+)mins - clear and concise - well done Ryan ;)
I have been a sceptical UV user until now. This was actually the first opportunity in 11 years of reefing to see it make a noticible difference instead of it just being there ambiguously. From the day after installing the UV the things I purchased the UV for started to improve.
What a brilliant video in just 5 minutes 👍👍 I now realise I really do need to get an inline UV Sterilizer, but having a canister filter it’s not going to be a straight forward fix, but guess I must have a go to finally stop the algae on my glass. Thanks guys, as always very informative and encouraging video
It's ridiculously easy to fix an inline UV to a canister if you know your flow rates.
I am running a sterilizer and clarifier, had them running probably for 3 years+ now. I consider UV essential 100%
Have got seen a raise in teMp on your tank?
@@MADTrollsReefTanks No, holding steady at 26C
Merci pour ta vidéo !!! 👍👍👍
Hi Ryan... what size of pump would I need to run on my vecton 600 uv ... thanks
I use 2 x15watt wands there like heaters in my pump return area and because the glass is normal iron green edge it does not pass through into other chambers infarct algea grows on other side's but not in return chamber
Im using a 28w bulb in an off grid shower system so leaving it on 24/7 is to much power but the ballast for my unit keeps burning out bulbs, is there an option that can be turned on/off once or twice a day without damaging the bulbs?
I had a green nightmare in my freshwater setup I bought a small UV sterilizer as only have a small tank and wow the water is so much cleaner and tidier I use 6x shrimp to help clean up surface algae and stuff that needs more cleaning
Please please can you show that 40 gallon breeder UV sterilizer set-up you have????? I want that same set-up on my 40 gallon breeder as well. It is at 6:30 in the video the set up I want to buy. Thank you Bulk reef supply.
Is it easier to achieve both goals using ozone instead?
I have a question about UV Sterilizers. If I have a 57 watt sterilizer plugged into my apex shouldn't the wattage used show up as 57 watts. I have a Pentair UV rated at 40 watts and on my apex it draws 45 watts. My Aqua UV 57 watt unit draws 33 watts. How is that possible?
I just installed the hanger model on my sump and in 24hrs have noticed a massive change in my water clarity and sand bed, I had brown diatom patches in the sand and after raking them into the water column they are gone, also scrubbed my rocks free of hair algae, and I'm not having any more outbreaks. The water is so clear that I'm worried my snails will not have any food to eat as the glass in the aquarium has no film. I may have to buy algae pellets for my snails!
I know right they look awful and get churned up in your water making a even bigger mess to clean one reason love the UV 🙂
Didn't put one on for ich, but to try and help with a stringy deep red cyano I had. Too lazy to do the cyano medicines and associated water changes and skimmer overflow. This stuff wouldn't go away without medication. Worked for me, and any other stuff it kills in the water (can't remember the term for bad bacteria) is a bonus. Nano tank here. Gives me a bit more confidence putting new stuff in the tank.
This is exactly what I’m trying to solve right now. Looking to purchase a UV sterilizer hopefully it works the same magic for me
I have a 32G biocube Is the coralife in-line uv going to do anything ?
Hi iam india,When to change the water? what are the procedures?
Hey Ryan, awsome video as always. I know you said that you can't use a single UV for all goals. But I'm thinking using a Reef Octopus Varios 8 and a Pentair 40Watt with an Apex controller and I wanted to know if I ran it fo 12 hours at 943GPH for Algae & Bacteria and 12 hours at 157GPH for Bacteria on a Red Sea Reefer 750. Does this make sence or am I essentiallty doing nothing becuase it's turnover is not correct during a 24 hour period?
You probably won't get the outcome that you're expecting. Bacteria reproduces VERY quickly, so running it as a specific flow rate 24/7 is necessary to achieve most goals. You're better off picking one or the other (flowrate), then sticking with it.
But it also kills free swimming plankton. I gave up on using filter sock as well, just let the stuff swim and develop, it’s very natural.
OK, this is my experience of uv steriliser used on my q/t tank.
125lt tank with a cycled ext power filter, a 15watt uv fed with 600 litre eheim power head, 12 wks in this tank, I use no chemicals, copper, cp, etc, these are just poison in my opinion,
Gem tang, majestic angel, potters angel, ulitiensis butterflyfish, declivis butterflyfish, tomini tang, have all been through this .
Regular small wc, through the twelve weeks, treatment of flukesolve, repeating as per instructions.
A little time consuming, a tub of salt, but no poisoning of fish, stressful dips, just to add the ulitiensis had tail fin rot, it got worse then cleared totally never returned. I shudder to think how many fish have died in qt due to chemical treatment, hope this is of interest.
I see online many cases where people bring home fish and put them in quarantine and medicate them right away with parasite medication and then the fish dies (id assume because that's a ton of stress)
Essentially, would uv lights in quarantine for a new fish be just fine and then only go further if something is observed? What if the fish was wild caught?
Wouldn’t it make sense to add a UV light in a young tank to help with the ugly’s then switch over to parasite control. Maybe bouncing back and forth as needed in an established tank or qt tank. 1 week of high flow then the next low flow. Once everything is in check adjust flow as desired.
I have one built into both my fish tanks never a problem
I purchased the 25W UV from BRS, I am running it on a reefer 250 (65gal). I have the flow set at 100gph. the water is coming from a tee off my return pump in the sump and the outflow of the UV drops into the overflow section of the sump. Is this the best config., or should I do something else?
You're probably not optimizing it's use because, as described, a significant amount of the water is effectively recycling through the UV. From other BRS video's, they seem to recommend T'ing off the return pump, go into the UV, and then that water go into the tank (not sump).
During cycling a new tank should one turn on the UV? I feel like it can disrupt the beneficial bacteria growth, specially if the bacteria is being introduced through a bottle into the water column. Can you shed some light onto this?
Cycle "could" take "slightly" longer and I wouldn't have it on the same day i pour in starter bacteria but the advantages outweigh the small amount of time added.
If kills parasites, then what does it do to the beneficial bacteria and pods?
Studies have consistently found that low flow rates in recirculating systems result in inferior microbial inactivation. If you think about it, it's actually fairly intuitive why this is true.
I'm so glad I got my UV for my saltwater tank 🙌🏾 had a ich outbreak I couldn't cure lost fish was actually thinking about getting out the hobby. Then I heard about the UV lights 😀 so I got one hooked it up and bam 💥 a few weeks later the ich was gone off all of the fish 😁 all my fish are doing great no ich to be seen I'm so happy I highly recommend getting one it will save your fish 🏥🥰
Also the water quality is amazing crystal clear looks amazing 😲
I'm in that boat with Ich right now. If it takes out my tank, I'm not starting that tank back up.
@@NinjaSushi2 and? Did you manage to resolve it?
Thank you for the video. It's possible to use aquarium UV light to sterilize drinking water?
We mainly focus on aquariums, but the same principles should apply to drinking water too. If you have questions about your specific drinking water, we'd recommend reaching out to a water filtration professional in your area as they probably have some good insight on filtering whatever you're concerned about 😃
@@BRStv Thank you very much for the answer!
is there a way to have one week run the UV under low speed to kill parasite, and one week to kill agile/bacteria? Would that work to get rid or slow/reduce the chance of both problems?
Probably could do it with a DC pump and Neptune controller...but given their rate of reproduction, a bacteria bloom could go nuts in that week of slow speed.
Potentially. I can't say for sure as we've never tried it. Would most easily be done with a controller and DC controllable pump like the Varios though.
Just getting started and about ready to start. I'm a few grand invested and after months and months of research and purchases and planning thinking "im good to go now, just need some time to git'r'dun and set-up..". But now this U/V question comes up and you give me the answer i need but didn't want to hear... Now, I realize the fact that I still need "one more thing for the tank". Do you promise it will save fish??? I really need to sell this to my wife man!
We can't promise anything in this hobby, but we can say that a UV will help protect the fish from potential parasites IF set up and sized properly.
Do they kill copepods
do you think that the smaller gravity fed uv sterilizers are worthwhile in an all in one tank
The Innovative Marine one? That's what I use.
Innovative Marine makes some great UV sterilizers for their AIO tanks. While I'd never call them 100% necessary, they're a good addition :)
*looks at 80w UV sterilizer for 750xxl in corner*
So I had just gotten a brand new tank all setup and finally has fish in it. I’m thinking of getting some corals maybe but what would be a good few corals for a saltwater aquarium newbie? Thanks if you see/reply to this
BRS has video on beginner corals too.
What type of lighting are you running over your tank? Im more then happy to help. You can add me on reef central, reef4life07.
Mushrooms and euphyllia are really hardy
Check out this video. Lots of good info on corals for beginners :)
www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/5-minute-saltwater-aquarium-guide-ep18-adding-coral/
prfinest07 on what thing like social media? I’d be happy if you’d help me to and I don’t know what with the light because I got an all in one tank by fluval 13.5 gallons
Well the UV sterilizer get rid of the beneficial bacteria in vibrant?
In this BRStv Investigates test, we found that UV has very little impact on how effective Vibrant is.
th-cam.com/video/jDUbzs8j3Y4/w-d-xo.html
Why have I heard to mount UV vertically and if you dont there could be problems?
The goal is to mount it so that air can't get trapped inside
You can also take the bulb out for replacement without turning your pumps off.
How about live phytoplanktons?
I'm not seeing the link to the R2R thread mentioned in the video.
I have a quick question. I hear that UV is great for salt water tanks, but will it work in fresh water tanks?
Yes, with pest and water clarity
Does uv not kill good bacteria as well ?
the bacteria that cycle our tanks live predominantly on surfaces so there will not be a meaningful impact.
Just curious, would a slow flow through a UV set to kill parasites minimize the tank fallow period (for eradication) on a system that contained ich?
Potentially, but you'd never know for sure when the ich is gone. There just isn't a reasonable way to test for it to confirm that it's 100% eradicated.
UV is the solution to manage ich for large tanks.
Is impossible to remove all the fish in the Long Island’s 20,000 gallon reef tank whenever
there is an ich outbreak and put all the fish a hospital tank.
Long Island’s 20,000 gallon reef has been running successfully everyday for 20 years with fish.
the 10 min 5 min guide
UV is a great tool but I feel like it can mask other issues when used improperly. For example, crazy algae issues point to organic waste in the tank. Reducing photo-period, more cleaning, adding biofiltration and water changes seem like a better solution imo.
No link guys ...I have a 210 reef any recommendation?
www.bulkreefsupply.com/emperor-aquatics-smart-uv-40-watt.html
UV isn't an alternative to effective QT protocol, but it should be part of one. I have numerous QT tanks, some "watch 'em" tanks with UV, some medicated tanks, without. Likewise, UV on the display systems as well.
In my experience, ich eradication just becomes ich management. Basically, i'm a pessimistic, i don't think anyone or any process is perfect, I don't trust anyone, even myself, and i've seen enough dorys that just seem to never get cured no matter what, i'm at the point where if you aren't trying to do BOTH ich eradication and management, you aren't really doing everything you can do.
Interesting take. Considering how many people mess up ich eradication it is difficult to come to the conclusion that both are not valuable.
I got around 175-200gph on my main return for a 45g. (60g total water, refugium, sump)
So if i hook a aqua advantage 2000 15w on the return, i will have more then enough to kill free floating algae, bacteria, ick etc...
Product detail:
When used as a saltwater sterilizer will accomodate systems up to 75 gals with a flowrate of 233 gph for 90,000 uw/cm2
I love the 5 minute idea but it’s 10...
5 ish.... 😜
People think I'm crazy because I run a uv on my biocube32 but I only clean my glass once a week and that alone is a big enough win for me to run it. #lazybutsmartreefer
What kind of UV are u running and how long have u had it. Thinking as about running UV in my 50g but have seen bad experiences with the UV melting and leaching crap into the wate column.
@@cdc4355 I run an Aqua Ultraviolet. The smallest one they make. Its amazing.
Won't UV kill the beneficial bacteria?
UV can and will kill bacteria passing through it, but most of the beneficial bacteria lives on surfaces like sand and rock, so it won't pass through the UV.
Free floating bacteria only, not surface beneficial bacteria
use a canister filter for anerobic bacteria and connect a uv on the outlet. then with slow flow you get lower nitrates and and maximum uv burn 😂
how is this 5 minutes?
Wouldn't it kill the beneficial bacteria along with the bacteria we do not want?
No, those are on the surface of the rock/sand. He explained several times that it wouldn't do anything really to established populations. Sure, SOME is in the water column, but not a significant quantity.
@@komokaziboschetti Uv will remove beneficial bacteria as well as bad thats in the water.
@@mikegarbrandt Only what's suspended in the water column which is negligible.
Only the bacteria that floats through the UV will be affected. Since most of the good bacteria will live on surfaces like rock and sand, this is a non issue.
Is he rhyming or is it just me
You said you’ve been using it for years on some tanks and with decades of information on them out there and just “ recently “ you’re understanding how something works that you sell? Smh...why ppl don’t take the time to learn about products they sell is beyond me.
Thinking that BRS doesn't take the time to learn the products they sell is just stupid. Find a large distributor that knows as much about all of their products. I'll wait.
WSATV I’m sure he has had to known longer than “ recently “ otherwise that’s pretty scary. Then again I have called their sales reps twice to ask questions on their products. 1st call on a product that I couldn’t get a direct answer for just beat around the bush and the 2nd call why or how to achieve something in the water and they couldn’t help me. Just ended the call with “ well that’s what I would try, see if that works and if not call back. Oh great answer, just go try something that neither of us know about on MY tank. Maybe I just had tough questions idk.
Fortunately, the way we use and understand equipment evolves and improves as time goes on. The experiments that we do as a part of BRStv is part of what helps us learn how to help the end user use the equipment more efficiently and effectively. It just so happens that our thinking on UV is evolving as of late due to some of our recent findings and new information :)
At what gph with which uv wattage is needed to kill which bacteria?? Chart would be on point if you were a concerned aquarist but i understand its "JUST BUISNESS"...