Hi Andy :D Listen, I'm currently working on a derelict 221 that I thrifted and found that "Meguiar's Ultimate Compound" does wonders on dull & cloudy shellac finish. It removes the dull layer of the shellac coating to reveal the glossy shine hidden underneath. It won't make disappear shellac flakes but will mitigate them a wee bit, it will also make disappear dull spots caused by a spill of Krud Kutter or IPA (I've been there too haha).
Hey! Thank you so much for this great information. I love when people share this kind of stuff because I know my viewers. Many of my viewers at least read into the comments so I pin this comment to the top because I get a lot of visits on this page where people are searching how to clean their featherweight or other black shellac singer iron lady. Thanks again for taking time to share that
I'm going to begin cleaning my roomates 1936 221 Featherweight pretty soon. My roomate is 81 and this machine was her mother's. I've been doing the research online and collecting supplies. I've watched so many videos and I just discovered yours a few days ago, so I see I'm going to be watching lots more. I think I'm in love; with you, the machines, all this amazing information. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge, experience, methods and love of the machines. And a special thank you for sharing your time.
It's an amazing machine. I only worked on the one I named "Lala" th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html I appreciate your very kind comment 🙏 In case you did not come across these folks here are the true Pro's for model 221 (IMO) singer-featherweight.com/ I mean when folks send their machines from out of the country to them I figure they know what's going on. I appreciate what you are doing to restore that machine and for your friend. Best of luck.
I always use singer sewing machine oil to clean my machines, my great grandma taught us not to use anything else and all of our machines are still in fantastic condition, yes there is obviously wear and tear damage but that is from regular use of the machines (which is what they were built to do) ☺️ She taught us to use a soft paint brush to paint on the oil then leave it on overnight and then in the morning you use a soft cloth to polish off the remaining oil on the surface. ☺️
Hi Andy I'm always using your videos as a reference library I come back and watch different videos for whatever I'm working on at the time. You have helped me so much along my journey of learning how to work on domestic machines and the information is also helpful for industrial machines. Thank you so much for spending the time to make so many videos
Thank you, Michael, for your continued viewership of my videos. I've never worked on industrial machines but it's nice hearing some of my videos are helpful for working on them. You really brightened my afternoon 🌞
Love your videos Andy! Thank you. I just bought a 1948 year 221. The finish is awful. I bought the FW Shop cleaner and wax. And I cleaned and cleaned and waxed and waxed. Rubbed and rubbed. Still had a lot of dullness on the finish and what I saw as imbedded dirt, nicotine or who knows. I had used sewing machine oil first to wipe it. Nothing. So I’ve used GOJO on ten 15-91s, three 99s and several 66s. I put the Gojo on with my. Fingers and rub gently. Then check to see if the crud is loosening. If not I do it again. Maybe let it sit a couple minutes. Max. Then wipe. Then wipe with the SMO to clean off gojo. That is very important to clean off the Gojo thoroughly. Then you get the shine. (But not so much for this crap machine finish) I was surprised and pleased at least the machine dulled crud had gone and the machine seems to shine a bit better when I wiped off the oil. Then I used that cleaner and wax from the FW shop. Finally started to look a bit better. Still a crappy finish but a smooth as glass finish and with the Gojo at least I know it is clean.
Thank you for taking this slow and simple approach. I have a 27 in used shape. I don't want to overdo it, but I am a total tyro at this and appreciate your thoughtful assessment of methods.
Andy, thank you as always! I should've watched the video first before I cleaned my FW. I can confirm too that the GoJo made my finish dull and I also tried the TriFlow because I was out of plain old SMO. Those were not good decisions and if I'd watched this video first, I wouldn't have made them! :) Thanks for all you do.
You're welcome, Kim. I'm sorry you had that happen, but don't feel alone. This was my first featherweight and I had heard many conflicting stories about cleaning, oiling, etc. I decided to try some of my own methods as you saw. I di have a few emails about the GoJo, both for and against. A fellow I have chatted with a few times told me about two different formulas for the GoJo and the one with pumice (I think it's what he called it) is bad for the machines, but the original formula without it was OK for the black finished machines. I hope you can wax your machine to get some of the shine back, but maybe like my wife you'll just love the way it sews and not worry about it. Either way, it was nice of you to comment and I'll pin your comment to the top in case others will see the GoJo and TriFlow info. Thank you for watching my channel, and take care.
Thank you for your video on this as I am wrestling with what to do with the finish on my 1916 66-1. I have been using smo on it to clean the outside for the last year but began to notice further deterioation as time went on. I believe I am beginning to understand that if the clear coat finish has worn away, the smo can seep under it and do some more damage. I did try the GoJo you used (before I saw your video) and I did see it seemed to cut through a lot of old oil build up and where there was actually clear coat left under that it did bighten it up. It at least left a clearer picture of where clear coat is completely gone and where it remains. Now am trying to decide whether to french polish or to use zymol precleaner/finishing wax first to see if I can at least protect what is left. As you concurred, not sure I would use GoJo on a machine with a decent finish on it though. I have seen it used mostly prior to doing a french polish.
Hi Andy, the oil bath is exactly what I strive for. On newer machines I use Pbblaster or even transmission fluid. I set the machine over a baking pan, soak all of the internals and run it. I filter the fluid through a coffe filter and use the fluid several times. In the end I wash out with sewing machine oil or spray triflow. Over the years I've had very positive results. A good lazy man's approach. On the old black machines I use only the sewing machine oil. When all dried out I oil with tri flow at the oil points. Thought you might find interesting. Thanks
I do find that interesting! Maybe someday when you have the time you could do a couple of videos about that method. I think people would really like to know about it.
Hi Andy! As a matter of fact I purchased a bottle of Krud Kutter after I saw your videos. I usually get a bit of "cloudy" feeling after using it on the surface of my machines (even as a solution with 50% water) and the way to remove that cloudiness is to apply a bit of sewing machine oil over it. It usually works for me. Thanks for your video! Edit: I only use KK when cleaning machines that have been exposed to nicotine or that are covered with old grease.
Good tip. I like the way the oil worked on this machine. On most of the others, I use the wax afterward. The oil costs much less and looks nice. Thanks for sharing.
I usually test any cleaner on the back of the bed along the base of the motor. The SMO (plain) worked well on this featherweight. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thank you. I liked it best for this machine, but be sure and read the comments below for other methods that viewers have also shared. I appreciate you watching and commenting on my channel. Take care.
I won't tell you that here in coastal Connecticut we haven't used the a/c in 5 days. It's midnight as I write you and outdoor temp is 64. With respects to the Featherweight, she looks like she was very much loved and used ❤. I've had good luck with "Sew Serious" Restoration Polish. You can find it on eBay. Look up singer 221, 201, and you'll find it. I do find that one application isn't enough. 3 or 4 then some car paste wax (I use Nu Finish). I restored a 66-16 this way and man, almost like new, except for the scratches. Would you happen to know of a source for touch up paint for the pistachio green Kenmores? Love the work you do. God bless and stay well.
That is a cool night. Our low today was 90 at 6AM and it's only going up to 113 today; a cooling trend, haha. Here is the info on the SewSerious Restoration Polish for interested viewers: www.sewserious.com/products/restoration-polish Thanks for sharing your experiences with it. I've never bothered with paint touch-up, but a few years back I bought some parts from a fellow who was doing a restoration of a Singer 337. He had touched up a few nicks and scratches and was letting it dry. He told me he just buys a sample 8 oz container of paint at home depot and has them color match what he needs. It costs less than $5. www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Colors/8-Ounce/N-5yc1vZcaw8Z1z1dqqg I do not know if it was acrylic or latex or what. It looked good though. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks so much for this demo. I've watched all the same videos over the years and it's all been a little over my head from a chemical standpoint. I ended up at a standstill and seeing that what was recommended by Singer seemed to be sewing machine oil and kerosene (and I'm not sure where I would store kerosene). I had thought maybe the Mcguires followed by wax but I was watching car restoration videos simultaneously and wasn't sure if that was influencing me for the better or worse. Thanks for ruling out the Krud cutter, gojo, (and kerosene).
Welcome and thanks for watching. I did use the Krud Kutter on the inside parts of the machine and that worked very well th-cam.com/video/lz2xV3zfvJE/w-d-xo.html
I've used liquid Turtle Wax since the early 90's on all my black Singers. It can take several applications, wiping it off while still moist, to thoroughly remove the dirt. It won't repair damage but it shines the surface. The last application I let dry to a haze and then buff the surface. It helps protect from further degradation.
Hi, I had very damaging results with gojo on a beautiful old White. I think the finishes change over the years. Originally, I'm told they were a baked on Japan finish. I'm afraid to do anything other than the sewing machine oil. Then I buff and leave it. Looks pretty good. Not! Perfect. Thanks for your information. I'm going to try the Cleaner wax on an experimental machine.
Kenneth, thanks for sharing. If you get a chance, read some of the other comments of what people use. The howard wax-n-feed sounded very interesting. I appreciate your watching my channel.
Since black sewing machines are clear coated with the same thing that was used on furniture you can use Howard Feed-N-Wax which helps restore some life to the old clear finish and also leaves a shine that stays longer than what is left from coating with sewing machine oil. Like the sewing machine oil, a little goes a long way. I am sure you will instantly see the advantage it has over sewing machine oil.
Thank you for sharing this, Randy. I never would have considered using a product for wood, but it makes a lot of sense. Singer oil is 100% petroleum distillates, hydrotreated light paraffinic Saftey Data Sheet link: blessington.app.box.com/s/xveh0lkq72uwriru3fxdffqd6wezl3su The Howard product is about 80% combination of petroleum distillates, 5% paraffin wax and 5% Terpenes and Terpenoids Safety Data Sheet Link: www.howardproducts.com/files/Feed-N-Wax%20Wood%20Polish%20and%20Conditioner%20-%20US%20-%20English%20(2020).pdf I can see that it would have a deeper and longer-lasting shine with the wax. Terpenes are aromatic compounds found in many plants. I guess to leave the furniture smelling pleasant which would be OK on a sewing machine. Howards is like a one-step, longer-lasting product. A great tip, Randy! Nice to hear from you. Take Care.
Hi again, I tried different oils on a old black singer. I won't go into much detail but coconut oil worked good must be careful. I've used the stuff to remove stickers and the like. Howards does not recommend on painted surfaces (scared of that). The sewing machine oil seemed to do the best. Oh I wash out the insides of these old singers with the sewing machine oil. I scrub it around and kinda rinse it. I like it and safe. Just thoughts. Thank you so much for your in depth videos.
I did not even think of using oil for inside cleaning! So, kinda rinsing, does that mean flushing the parts with more fresh oil? That's an interesting idea. Like an oil bath and totally harmless. I'm not sure about using a plant oil, but if I did, coconut would probably be my choice too. Fractionated. thanks for sharing and watching my channel.
Great video as always Andy. After watching your latest LaLa installment, coincidentally, I went to PROJECT FARM and watched his latest video entitled, “Best Car Paint Scratch Remover? Let’s find out! Turtle Was, Meguiar’s, 3M, Nu Finish, Carfidant.” I thought you might want to watch this related subject while laying out in the back yard enjoying your "warm" weather.
Thank you. Hey, that is an interesting video th-cam.com/video/m8OU5J6OSt0/w-d-xo.html I don't think it would work on a shellacked finish or the decals, but who knows? I would try it maybe on a slant-O-Matich when they have all those tiny scratches that dull the paint. I've used a couple other polishes, but the Meguiars and 3M products in the video looked good. Thanks for sharing, ChuckRich. Take Care.
After using pounds of Gojo on my Vintage Industrial sewing machines some have 80 years of oil build-up inside and out . I have found that Gojo takes a minimum of 20 minutes up 8-12 hours depending on the thickness of oil ,per layer ,sew it seams! To remove 80 years of oil down to the original finish has taken months and pounds of Gojo!
So having watched a bunch of your videos I have to ask what brand is the brass handled screw starter that you use I like its design better than others I've found on line thanks?
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks yeah there hard to find a friend of mine dad had some like that I like that design better then others. Thanks for making these vids I'm watching your 400 series vids so I can recondition my 401a and your vids are great like going to a school on sewing machines so thanks.
Ah yes - those famed screw-starters. We all want them - oh to have a friend like Andy's who gifted him those. I've got some modern ones that kind-of do the same job and they're good enough, I'd think them rather good but for Andy's which are the kind you dream of finding like a lost Matisse hiding in an otherwise anonymous box of bits at a second-hand store. You snaffle them up as nonchalantly as you can in the Oscar-winning performance of your life and then torture yourself in the wee, dark hours of the night wondering whether you robbed the store owner when you only paid them their $2 asking price. Oh - the fantasies I have about Andy's screw-starters!
This week there was an eBay listing for 4 of them. Average condition. The winning bid was about $50. If I was a younger man I'd try to buy the patent and start making them again. I have some of the other, modern ones, but the ones I was given, HJJ CO, are just slimmer and better. Never give up your fantasies, right?
Muchas gracias por ver mi canal. Disfruté restaurando el modelo 338 para mi hija y le encanta coser con él. Felicitaciones por obtener el juego de accesorios. Estoy muy feliz por tí.
@@andytubesewing1953 muchas gracias a ti ahora estoy viendo tus videos para aprender a usar los accesorios y como todo el manual está en inglés pues lo voy traduciendo poco a poco...
I don't have a 15-91, but here is the series for restoring a 99K to give you some ideas. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html I used this guide for the 99K and it has info for the 15K also: www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/ The 15-91 has a potted motor, of course, and that seems to concern people the most. Here is a good guide for rewiring the motor: vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-re-wire-potted-motor-part-1-wire.html I sure there are TH-cam videos about it by now, also. eBay even has an $11 kit for rewiring it: www.ebay.com/i/283961886050?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
This was the only Featherweight I've worked on. I'm not doing restorations at this time. The only person I recommend for restoration work is Scott; th-cam.com/users/CowCountryEnterpriseabout People usually already have a machine and send it to him for restoration, but he may also acquire one for you, IDK. Contact him if you are interested and tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
I just got my mint featherwieght today , 1951 and there was a reciept from a singer store from 1978 , the lady paid 1000 used i got it for 250 today and in my area they never go less then 500 so i was very excited to get such a deal , the decals are all there and in great shape but there is crackling in the black , any tips ? Also has the original instruction booklet , only thing missing i can see is the oil can . Keep up the great content Andy 👍
Congratulations! Everything I know about featherweights is in my videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html Here is a link to whom I believe to know the most about them, and this is just their cleaning/polishing page; singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/cleaning-and-polishing You could spend days on their website, I'm sure. Good Luck, and happy sewing.
The black machines are clear coated with shellac. Water based products (Krud Kutter) are not a good idea with shellac. Gojo is oil based and will soften and loosen the dirt. Cleaner waxes have a microabrasive component that will bring out a nice shine as a final step. Have to be careful not to wear through the clear coat.
Thanks for sharing, Paul. I know there are fans of the Gojo and agree the KK was not a good choice for the shellac machines. I've been experimenting with the oil and then a coat of carnauba wax. BTW, the second listed ingredient on the Gojo is water. Main ingredient is petroleum distillates, and then water,and then 12 others. Thanks for watching and commenting.
HEY 💖😀 I can't believe that could happen 👀 I mean with a fulltime job and two homeschooled kids, what's the problem? Sure, the KK cleans kitchens very well, even at 15% solution. You can go stronger with stovetops or those dog prints on the floor if needed, haha. I like if for the tiled floors in the house, too. Your Home Depot has a 32 0Z spray for $7 www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-32-oz-Original-Concentrate-Cleaner-Degreaser-KK326/203396788 Or a gallon of concentrate for $14 (It's twice that price at Amazon) Thanks for watching, and happy cleaning. Love You Sparky, Sparkle, Twinkle & Captain. 😍✨
In a few of the older service manuals I have for Singer machines they mention if the machine is very dirty or gummed up to remove the electric and rubber parts and soak in a bucket of kerosene until it is loosened; even overnight if required. Then "wipe the machine down" and apply fresh oil.
@@andytubesewing1953 yes, I read the same thing. I did it years ago worked fine. Alot of kerosene though. The mixture of auto trans fluid and kerosene worked best for me. I keep it away from the exterior.
Oh lord, all those products! Vintage machine experts always recommend cleaning with Singer Oil and it's demonstrable that works very well. Why chance ruining the finish? Makes me a bit queasy to watch.
I'm sure vintage machine experts always get it right. Nothing. I did harm the finish really. I'm sorry if you felt queasy I hope you didn't lose your lunch and thanks for watching my channel
Yes, I see that you tested in some place unobtrusive. Very wise! I'm such a 221K/222K fan. I have both and am teaching my granddaughter on the 221. They're brilliant machines. Fortunately mine had been completely gone-over when I got them and I didn't have to guess what to do with anything. These machines are so beautiful you just can't imagine them being damaged -- and yet you do see some pretty incredible things happen -- especially when an amateur decides to paint one. It's heart-wrenching! @@andytubesewing1953
Sorry, Connie, I've never worked on one. These people know all there is to know about featherweights (IMO) and they have a cleaning tutorial you may find helpful singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/cleaning-and-polishing Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Hi Andy :D Listen, I'm currently working on a derelict 221 that I thrifted and found that "Meguiar's Ultimate Compound" does wonders on dull & cloudy shellac finish. It removes the dull layer of the shellac coating to reveal the glossy shine hidden underneath. It won't make disappear shellac flakes but will mitigate them a wee bit, it will also make disappear dull spots caused by a spill of Krud Kutter or IPA (I've been there too haha).
Hey! Thank you so much for this great information. I love when people share this kind of stuff because I know my viewers. Many of my viewers at least read into the comments so I pin this comment to the top because I get a lot of visits on this page where people are searching how to clean their featherweight or other black shellac singer iron lady. Thanks again for taking time to share that
I'm going to begin cleaning my roomates 1936 221 Featherweight pretty soon. My roomate is 81 and this machine was her mother's. I've been doing the research online and collecting supplies. I've watched so many videos and I just discovered yours a few days ago, so I see I'm going to be watching lots more. I think I'm in love; with you, the machines, all this amazing information. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge, experience, methods and love of the machines. And a special thank you for sharing your time.
It's an amazing machine. I only worked on the one I named "Lala" th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html I appreciate your very kind comment 🙏 In case you did not come across these folks here are the true Pro's for model 221 (IMO) singer-featherweight.com/ I mean when folks send their machines from out of the country to them I figure they know what's going on. I appreciate what you are doing to restore that machine and for your friend. Best of luck.
I always use singer sewing machine oil to clean my machines, my great grandma taught us not to use anything else and all of our machines are still in fantastic condition, yes there is obviously wear and tear damage but that is from regular use of the machines (which is what they were built to do) ☺️ She taught us to use a soft paint brush to paint on the oil then leave it on overnight and then in the morning you use a soft cloth to polish off the remaining oil on the surface. ☺️
Hi Andy I'm always using your videos as a reference library I come back and watch different videos for whatever I'm working on at the time. You have helped me so much along my journey of learning how to work on domestic machines and the information is also helpful for industrial machines. Thank you so much for spending the time to make so many videos
Thank you, Michael, for your continued viewership of my videos. I've never worked on industrial machines but it's nice hearing some of my videos are helpful for working on them. You really brightened my afternoon 🌞
Love your videos Andy! Thank you. I just bought a 1948 year 221. The finish is awful. I bought the FW Shop cleaner and wax. And I cleaned and cleaned and waxed and waxed. Rubbed and rubbed. Still had a lot of dullness on the finish and what I saw as imbedded dirt, nicotine or who knows. I had used sewing machine oil first to wipe it. Nothing. So I’ve used GOJO on ten 15-91s, three 99s and several 66s. I put the Gojo on with my. Fingers and rub gently. Then check to see if the crud is loosening. If not I do it again. Maybe let it sit a couple minutes. Max. Then wipe. Then wipe with the SMO to clean off gojo. That is very important to clean off the Gojo thoroughly. Then you get the shine. (But not so much for this crap machine finish) I was surprised and pleased at least the machine dulled crud had gone and the machine seems to shine a bit better when I wiped off the oil. Then I used that cleaner and wax from the FW shop. Finally started to look a bit better. Still a crappy finish but a smooth as glass finish and with the Gojo at least I know it is clean.
Thanks for the detailed sharing of your experience with the finish. Always something to learn about these wonderful machines.
Thank you for taking this slow and simple approach. I have a 27 in used shape. I don't want to overdo it, but I am a total tyro at this and appreciate your thoughtful assessment of methods.
You can do it! 👍Take it easy and good luck.
Andy, thank you as always! I should've watched the video first before I cleaned my FW. I can confirm too that the GoJo made my finish dull and I also tried the TriFlow because I was out of plain old SMO. Those were not good decisions and if I'd watched this video first, I wouldn't have made them! :) Thanks for all you do.
You're welcome, Kim. I'm sorry you had that happen, but don't feel alone. This was my first featherweight and I had heard many conflicting stories about cleaning, oiling, etc. I decided to try some of my own methods as you saw. I di have a few emails about the GoJo, both for and against. A fellow I have chatted with a few times told me about two different formulas for the GoJo and the one with pumice (I think it's what he called it) is bad for the machines, but the original formula without it was OK for the black finished machines. I hope you can wax your machine to get some of the shine back, but maybe like my wife you'll just love the way it sews and not worry about it. Either way, it was nice of you to comment and I'll pin your comment to the top in case others will see the GoJo and TriFlow info. Thank you for watching my channel, and take care.
Thank you for your video on this as I am wrestling with what to do with the finish on my 1916 66-1. I have been using smo on it to clean the outside for the last year but began to notice further deterioation as time went on. I believe I am beginning to understand that if the clear coat finish has worn away, the smo can seep under it and do some more damage. I did try the GoJo you used (before I saw your video) and I did see it seemed to cut through a lot of old oil build up and where there was actually clear coat left under that it did bighten it up. It at least left a clearer picture of where clear coat is completely gone and where it remains. Now am trying to decide whether to french polish or to use zymol precleaner/finishing wax first to see if I can at least protect what is left. As you concurred, not sure I would use GoJo on a machine with a decent finish on it though. I have seen it used mostly prior to doing a french polish.
Hi Andy, the oil bath is exactly what I strive for. On newer machines I use Pbblaster or even transmission fluid. I set the machine over a baking pan, soak all of the internals and run it. I filter the fluid through a coffe filter and use the fluid several times. In the end I wash out with sewing machine oil or spray triflow. Over the years I've had very positive results. A good lazy man's approach. On the old black machines I use only the sewing machine oil. When all dried out I oil with tri flow at the oil points. Thought you might find interesting. Thanks
I do find that interesting! Maybe someday when you have the time you could do a couple of videos about that method. I think people would really like to know about it.
Hi Andy! As a matter of fact I purchased a bottle of Krud Kutter after I saw your videos. I usually get a bit of "cloudy" feeling after using it on the surface of my machines (even as a solution with 50% water) and the way to remove that cloudiness is to apply a bit of sewing machine oil over it. It usually works for me. Thanks for your video!
Edit: I only use KK when cleaning machines that have been exposed to nicotine or that are covered with old grease.
Good tip. I like the way the oil worked on this machine. On most of the others, I use the wax afterward. The oil costs much less and looks nice. Thanks for sharing.
Try Howards Feed and Wax for the shellac finishes
Thank you Andy, I had heard of cleaning with SMO before, now, with your approval, I will try it on my 222K.
I usually test any cleaner on the back of the bed along the base of the motor. The SMO (plain) worked well on this featherweight. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Andy, great video!!! I’m a fan of sewing machine oil to clean the outer surfaces too! Great to share!!! : )
Thank you. I liked it best for this machine, but be sure and read the comments below for other methods that viewers have also shared. I appreciate you watching and commenting on my channel. Take care.
I won't tell you that here in coastal Connecticut we haven't used the a/c in 5 days. It's midnight as I write you and outdoor temp is 64. With respects to the Featherweight, she looks like she was very much loved and used ❤. I've had good luck with "Sew Serious" Restoration Polish. You can find it on eBay. Look up singer 221, 201, and you'll find it. I do find that one application isn't enough. 3 or 4 then some car paste wax (I use Nu Finish). I restored a 66-16 this way and man, almost like new, except for the scratches. Would you happen to know of a source for touch up paint for the pistachio green Kenmores? Love the work you do. God bless and stay well.
That is a cool night. Our low today was 90 at 6AM and it's only going up to 113 today; a cooling trend, haha.
Here is the info on the SewSerious Restoration Polish for interested viewers: www.sewserious.com/products/restoration-polish Thanks for sharing your experiences with it. I've never bothered with paint touch-up, but a few years back I bought some parts from a fellow who was doing a restoration of a Singer 337. He had touched up a few nicks and scratches and was letting it dry. He told me he just buys a sample 8 oz container of paint at home depot and has them color match what he needs. It costs less than $5. www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Colors/8-Ounce/N-5yc1vZcaw8Z1z1dqqg I do not know if it was acrylic or latex or what. It looked good though. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks so much for this demo. I've watched all the same videos over the years and it's all been a little over my head from a chemical standpoint. I ended up at a standstill and seeing that what was recommended by Singer seemed to be sewing machine oil and kerosene (and I'm not sure where I would store kerosene). I had thought maybe the Mcguires followed by wax but I was watching car restoration videos simultaneously and wasn't sure if that was influencing me for the better or worse. Thanks for ruling out the Krud cutter, gojo, (and kerosene).
Welcome and thanks for watching. I did use the Krud Kutter on the inside parts of the machine and that worked very well th-cam.com/video/lz2xV3zfvJE/w-d-xo.html
Wonderful, thank you ❤
I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for leaving a nice comment
I've used liquid Turtle Wax since the early 90's on all my black Singers. It can take several applications, wiping it off while still moist, to thoroughly remove the dirt. It won't repair damage but it shines the surface. The last application I let dry to a haze and then buff the surface. It helps protect from further degradation.
Carolyn, I don't know why I was not notified of your comment but thanks for much for sharing the info on my channel.
Hi, I had very damaging results with gojo on a beautiful old White. I think the finishes change over the years. Originally, I'm told they were a baked on Japan finish. I'm afraid to do anything other than the sewing machine oil. Then I buff and leave it. Looks pretty good. Not! Perfect. Thanks for your information. I'm going to try the Cleaner wax on an experimental machine.
Kenneth, thanks for sharing. If you get a chance, read some of the other comments of what people use. The howard wax-n-feed sounded very interesting. I appreciate your watching my channel.
Since black sewing machines are clear coated with the same thing that was used on furniture you can use Howard Feed-N-Wax which helps restore some life to the old clear finish and also leaves a shine that stays longer than what is left from coating with sewing machine oil. Like the sewing machine oil, a little goes a long way. I am sure you will instantly see the advantage it has over sewing machine oil.
Thank you for sharing this, Randy. I never would have considered using a product for wood, but it makes a lot of sense.
Singer oil is 100% petroleum distillates, hydrotreated light paraffinic Saftey Data Sheet link: blessington.app.box.com/s/xveh0lkq72uwriru3fxdffqd6wezl3su
The Howard product is about 80% combination of petroleum distillates, 5% paraffin wax and 5% Terpenes and Terpenoids
Safety Data Sheet Link: www.howardproducts.com/files/Feed-N-Wax%20Wood%20Polish%20and%20Conditioner%20-%20US%20-%20English%20(2020).pdf
I can see that it would have a deeper and longer-lasting shine with the wax. Terpenes are aromatic compounds found in many plants. I guess to leave the furniture smelling pleasant which would be OK on a sewing machine. Howards is like a one-step, longer-lasting product. A great tip, Randy! Nice to hear from you. Take Care.
Hi again, I tried different oils on a old black singer. I won't go into much detail but coconut oil worked good must be careful. I've used the stuff to remove stickers and the like. Howards does not recommend on painted surfaces (scared of that). The sewing machine oil seemed to do the best. Oh I wash out the insides of these old singers with the sewing machine oil. I scrub it around and kinda rinse it. I like it and safe. Just thoughts. Thank you so much for your in depth videos.
I did not even think of using oil for inside cleaning! So, kinda rinsing, does that mean flushing the parts with more fresh oil? That's an interesting idea. Like an oil bath and totally harmless. I'm not sure about using a plant oil, but if I did, coconut would probably be my choice too. Fractionated. thanks for sharing and watching my channel.
Great video as always Andy. After watching your latest LaLa installment, coincidentally, I went to PROJECT FARM and watched his latest video entitled, “Best Car Paint Scratch Remover? Let’s find out! Turtle Was, Meguiar’s, 3M, Nu Finish, Carfidant.” I thought you might want to watch this related subject while laying out in the back yard enjoying your "warm" weather.
Thank you. Hey, that is an interesting video th-cam.com/video/m8OU5J6OSt0/w-d-xo.html I don't think it would work on a shellacked finish or the decals, but who knows? I would try it maybe on a slant-O-Matich when they have all those tiny scratches that dull the paint. I've used a couple other polishes, but the Meguiars and 3M products in the video looked good. Thanks for sharing, ChuckRich. Take Care.
After using pounds of Gojo on my Vintage Industrial sewing machines some have 80 years of oil build-up inside and out .
I have found that Gojo takes a minimum of 20 minutes up 8-12 hours depending on the thickness of oil ,per layer ,sew it seams!
To remove 80 years of oil down to the original finish has taken months and pounds of Gojo!
So having watched a bunch of your videos I have to ask what brand is the brass handled screw starter that you use I like its design better than others I've found on line thanks?
Those were a gift to me. The company seems to have gone out of business. One is marked HJJ CO MADE IN USA
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks yeah there hard to find a friend of mine dad had some like that I like that design better then others. Thanks for making these vids I'm watching your 400 series vids so I can recondition my 401a and your vids are great like going to a school on sewing machines so thanks.
@@samellowery Oh, thank you, and good luck with the 401A.
Ah yes - those famed screw-starters. We all want them - oh to have a friend like Andy's who gifted him those. I've got some modern ones that kind-of do the same job and they're good enough, I'd think them rather good but for Andy's which are the kind you dream of finding like a lost Matisse hiding in an otherwise anonymous box of bits at a second-hand store. You snaffle them up as nonchalantly as you can in the Oscar-winning performance of your life and then torture yourself in the wee, dark hours of the night wondering whether you robbed the store owner when you only paid them their $2 asking price. Oh - the fantasies I have about Andy's screw-starters!
This week there was an eBay listing for 4 of them. Average condition. The winning bid was about $50. If I was a younger man I'd try to buy the patent and start making them again. I have some of the other, modern ones, but the ones I was given, HJJ CO, are just slimmer and better. Never give up your fantasies, right?
Saludos amigo cada vídeo tuyo lo veo, sabes ya tengo todos los aditamentos de mi máquina singer 338... Saludos desde México
Muchas gracias por ver mi canal. Disfruté restaurando el modelo 338 para mi hija y le encanta coser con él. Felicitaciones por obtener el juego de accesorios. Estoy muy feliz por tí.
@@andytubesewing1953 muchas gracias a ti ahora estoy viendo tus videos para aprender a usar los accesorios y como todo el manual está en inglés pues lo voy traduciendo poco a poco...
@@MariaSorianopch
¡La mejor de las suertes para ti!
@@andytubesewing1953 muchas, muchas gracias por leerme...
I need this level of take down for a 15-91!
I don't have a 15-91, but here is the series for restoring a 99K to give you some ideas.
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html
I used this guide for the 99K and it has info for the 15K also:
www.tfsr.org/product/sewing-machine/
The 15-91 has a potted motor, of course, and that seems to concern people the most. Here is a good guide for rewiring the motor: vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-re-wire-potted-motor-part-1-wire.html
I sure there are TH-cam videos about it by now, also.
eBay even has an $11 kit for rewiring it: www.ebay.com/i/283961886050?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Andy Have you restored any Featherweights and have one for sale? If not who would you recommend?
This was the only Featherweight I've worked on. I'm not doing restorations at this time. The only person I recommend for restoration work is Scott; th-cam.com/users/CowCountryEnterpriseabout People usually already have a machine and send it to him for restoration, but he may also acquire one for you, IDK. Contact him if you are interested and tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
I just got my mint featherwieght today , 1951 and there was a reciept from a singer store from 1978 , the lady paid 1000 used i got it for 250 today and in my area they never go less then 500 so i was very excited to get such a deal , the decals are all there and in great shape but there is crackling in the black , any tips ? Also has the original instruction booklet , only thing missing i can see is the oil can . Keep up the great content Andy 👍
Congratulations! Everything I know about featherweights is in my videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html Here is a link to whom I believe to know the most about them, and this is just their cleaning/polishing page; singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/cleaning-and-polishing
You could spend days on their website, I'm sure. Good Luck, and happy sewing.
The black machines are clear coated with shellac. Water based products (Krud Kutter) are not a good idea with shellac. Gojo is oil based and will soften and loosen the dirt. Cleaner waxes have a microabrasive component that will bring out a nice shine as a final step. Have to be careful not to wear through the clear coat.
Thanks for sharing, Paul. I know there are fans of the Gojo and agree the KK was not a good choice for the shellac machines. I've been experimenting with the oil and then a coat of carnauba wax. BTW, the second listed ingredient on the Gojo is water. Main ingredient is petroleum distillates, and then water,and then 12 others. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Dad!! Do you think the Krud Kutter is strong enough for my kitchen?! Keep in mind it's gotten even worse since COVID 🤯😂😵😭
HEY 💖😀 I can't believe that could happen 👀 I mean with a fulltime job and two homeschooled kids, what's the problem? Sure, the KK cleans kitchens very well, even at 15% solution. You can go stronger with stovetops or those dog prints on the floor if needed, haha. I like if for the tiled floors in the house, too. Your Home Depot has a 32 0Z spray for $7 www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-32-oz-Original-Concentrate-Cleaner-Degreaser-KK326/203396788
Or a gallon of concentrate for $14 (It's twice that price at Amazon) Thanks for watching, and happy cleaning. Love You Sparky, Sparkle, Twinkle & Captain. 😍✨
Thanks! Rain this AM in Mesa!
Welcome, and you got rain? Jealous here in Tempe, haha.
Oh, I forgot, I've also used kerosene and various mixes of kerosene and fluids with very good cleaning results.
In a few of the older service manuals I have for Singer machines they mention if the machine is very dirty or gummed up to remove the electric and rubber parts and soak in a bucket of kerosene until it is loosened; even overnight if required. Then "wipe the machine down" and apply fresh oil.
@@andytubesewing1953 yes, I read the same thing. I did it years ago worked fine. Alot of kerosene though. The mixture of auto trans fluid and kerosene worked best for me. I keep it away from the exterior.
@@kennethjones5173 Yes, I thought to myself who needs 5 gallons of kerosene sitting around? Thanks for info; good to know.
@@andytubesewing1953 the thought of putting kerosene anywhere on the exterior finish of a machine strikes fear into my heart.
Oh lord, all those products! Vintage machine experts always recommend cleaning with Singer Oil and it's demonstrable that works very well. Why chance ruining the finish? Makes me a bit queasy to watch.
I'm sure vintage machine experts always get it right. Nothing. I did harm the finish really. I'm sorry if you felt queasy I hope you didn't lose your lunch and thanks for watching my channel
Yes, I see that you tested in some place unobtrusive. Very wise! I'm such a 221K/222K fan. I have both and am teaching my granddaughter on the 221. They're brilliant machines. Fortunately mine had been completely gone-over when I got them and I didn't have to guess what to do with anything. These machines are so beautiful you just can't imagine them being damaged -- and yet you do see some pretty incredible things happen -- especially when an amateur decides to paint one. It's heart-wrenching!
@@andytubesewing1953
What about cleaning a white FW.
Sorry, Connie, I've never worked on one. These people know all there is to know about featherweights (IMO) and they have a cleaning tutorial you may find helpful singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/cleaning-and-polishing
Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.