I bought the course last year and it’s worth it for twice the price , it breaks down film metering , the zone system and getting the correct exposure for film photography in easy bite size lessons that you quickly understand as well as many other aspects of film photography .. it’s great a reference resource to go back to time and time again. And truly has helped me improve my exposure and photography over the course of the year .. for me this is money well spent and great investment ... I don’t think there is a course out there that has the quality of teaching and production for the same sort of money ... it’s pretty much everything you need to know from a basic level upwards and will help improve your film photography whether it be 35mm or large format ...
Wish i had watched this before i shot my first roll of film at the weekend - all long exposures - 1 min plus. Might as well throw it in the bin instead of paying to have it developed. Bought the course btw and its looking like great content so far ! Would highly recommend it.
Great explanation as ever Nick. Interestingly, one of the reasons I shot Fujichrome Provia is because it has a bizarrely strong ability to endure exposures of about 120 seconds before RC kicks in. I have no idea how (or why) they engineered that film in that way when most films (including Velvia as you showed) are in the region of several seconds. So I can happily use Provia for 30s or 60s exposures without having to think about RC (just colour casting potentially). Fun fact...though I suspect you already know that.
I just looked up the data on Provia. You’re right. It has excellent reciprocity. That’s one of the reasons I’ve usually preferred Velvia 100 over 50. It’s good until about 45 seconds.
I think I will try the app. Some sources give the correction factor for reciprocity as an exponent e.g. 1.31 for Ilford HP5 which means a calculation of meter time raised to the power of the exponent. Most calculators can handle that but not so easily done in the head.
Hello Nick, a doubt each film has its reciprocity right, would you know how to tell me the reciprocity value of the kodak pro image 100, kodak color plus 200 and fujisuperia 400 films, I have these films here, and soon I will be taking long night photos exposure with them. I would love to get the exposure right, I always use a photometer, but I always measure in high lights, I will apply a tip I saw in a channel to measure in shadows and midtones now... What a tip could you give me. Your channel is awesome congratulations!.
Nick, you are an excellent teacher. You have a fantastic delivery. I'm not a film shooter, but I really like your YT channel. On the page for course purchase the link to testimonial is broken.
Knowing things and be able to explain things are two different things. You master both in extend and mom (hope she is still alive) can be proud ;-) Thanks for sharing
Maybe I misremember but IIRC the reciprocity failure is entirely and specifically a function of the film. The photochemical reaction of the photons and the film chemistry goes nonlinear outside a certain range.
Everyone is ignoring the data sheet information hidden in the plain sight for the RVP50 and other color films: the color cast correction filter itself takes 1/3 of the stop of the exposure. So, if you choose not to use one, no correction needed for 4 second exposure. It is not much of the difference, but technically, it should be accounted for.
I don’t believe the recommended 1/3 stop increase is factoring in the use of the filter. I think they’re expecting you to add the filter factor yourself on top of it. But I could be wrong. I should reach out to my Fuji contacts.
@@nickcarverphoto They put this in the specs: "Exposure correction values when using a filter relative to unfil- tered exposure results. A “+” followed by a number indicates the required increase in the lens opening", so yeah, they even indicate that the correction should be made using the aperture, not the time, so they were very scientific (using aperture vs time should not produce a significantly different outcome). Funny though, they didn't mention temperature as a significant factor. This is the ONLY real-world report when temperature affect the reciprocity: th-cam.com/video/YAPt_DcWAvw/w-d-xo.html
The automatic setting won’t compensate for reciprocity failure. The camera doesn’t know how much time to add to compensate nor that it even needs to compensate at all. You have to manually compensate via wider aperture or longer shutter.
Can someone explain to me what it means to add 2/3 of a stop? Like if I'm shooting a 16sec long exposure should I add 2/3 of that time for it to be 21sec?
Nick Carver unfortunately i have only full stops to choose from in my app, but it's better to add a full stop right? I've heard it's better to overexpose that to underexpose
You should start worrying about it when you are over about one second, and to calculate it you should: a) look up the reciprocity table in the info sheet for you specific film. That will tell you how the manufacturer suggests adjusting the exposure b) if (a) is unavailable, a possible approximation is to use the following formula: T=t*(1+(log(t))^2), where t is the metered time (the time you read off of your light meter) and T is your adjusted time. This is a last-resort formula you should use only when you have no other info though, it's not accurate because reciprocity failure varies from film to film!
@Nick Carver and when a photographer does not take reciprocity into account then disappointment happens into the darkroom!!! Lots of swearing words follows!
@@nickcarverphoto yes the worst nightmare! I am missing developing a good rack of spirals full of 120 diaposive film (well that happened 25 years ago when I worked in a studio in Lisbon)
This has been the best explanation of reciprocity failure. Thank you.
I bought the course last year and it’s worth it for twice the price , it breaks down film metering , the zone system and getting the correct exposure for film photography in easy bite size lessons that you quickly understand as well as many other aspects of film photography .. it’s great a reference resource to go back to time and time again. And truly has helped me improve my exposure and photography over the course of the year .. for me this is money well spent and great investment ... I don’t think there is a course out there that has the quality of teaching and production for the same sort of money ... it’s pretty much everything you need to know from a basic level upwards and will help improve your film photography whether it be 35mm or large format ...
Thank you for this testimonial!
Wish i had watched this before i shot my first roll of film at the weekend - all long exposures - 1 min plus. Might as well throw it in the bin instead of paying to have it developed. Bought the course btw and its looking like great content so far ! Would highly recommend it.
Thanks for praising the course! And I’d still get that roll developed. Might not be as bad as you think.
If I start a garage band, it will either be named "Reciprocity Failure," or "Circle of Confusion."
Pretty sure Circle of Confusion is playing at Coachella next year.
How about Chromatic Aberration? I don't know if I would rather be an aberration or a failure.
Great explanation as ever Nick. Interestingly, one of the reasons I shot Fujichrome Provia is because it has a bizarrely strong ability to endure exposures of about 120 seconds before RC kicks in. I have no idea how (or why) they engineered that film in that way when most films (including Velvia as you showed) are in the region of several seconds. So I can happily use Provia for 30s or 60s exposures without having to think about RC (just colour casting potentially). Fun fact...though I suspect you already know that.
I just looked up the data on Provia. You’re right. It has excellent reciprocity. That’s one of the reasons I’ve usually preferred Velvia 100 over 50. It’s good until about 45 seconds.
Best explanation yet. Thanks, educative and enjoyable to watch as usual.
Now Ambassador, you are spoiling us... (Ferroro Roché ad)
I think I will try the app. Some sources give the correction factor for reciprocity as an exponent e.g. 1.31 for Ilford HP5 which means a calculation of meter time raised to the power of the exponent. Most calculators can handle that but not so easily done in the head.
My brain is far too simple for that. I need an app to tell me “use 15 seconds instead of 8, dummy”
This is especially good to know if you are doing pinhole photography. You are usually in multiple seconds, and I like the slowest film I can find.
Excellent video! great way of breaking RF down.
Ean Miller thank you!
Hello Nick, a doubt each film has its reciprocity right, would you know how to tell me the reciprocity value of the kodak pro image 100, kodak color plus 200 and fujisuperia 400 films, I have these films here, and soon I will be taking long night photos exposure with them. I would love to get the exposure right, I always use a photometer, but I always measure in high lights, I will apply a tip I saw in a channel to measure in shadows and midtones now... What a tip could you give me. Your channel is awesome congratulations!.
Bless you. I've been looking for just this video for a while.
Anybody got a recommendation for an app to use on android?
Would love to find one too!
Thanks for sharing the info Nick 👍🏻👍🏻
Nick, you are an excellent teacher. You have a fantastic delivery. I'm not a film shooter, but I really like your YT channel.
On the page for course purchase the link to testimonial is broken.
Thank you! And thanks for telling me about the broken link. I couldn’t find any link that wasn’t working on that page. I’ll keep digging.
Never heard of this, thanks for making this video!
Knowing things and be able to explain things are two different things.
You master both in extend and mom (hope she is still alive) can be proud ;-)
Thanks for sharing
Thank you! She is. Sometimes too much...
Maybe I misremember but IIRC the reciprocity failure is entirely and specifically a function of the film. The photochemical reaction of the photons and the film chemistry goes nonlinear outside a certain range.
That Pentax meter looks awesome.
is there any like general rule? for maybe some rare film stocks that either don't have clear instructions or it's just hard to find
Basically if you are going 30 sec. you might add 1/2 a stop.. go to 45 sec. over a minute double that, longer you are on your own.
Welp looks like I’m buying another course from you Nick, I just need to get a light meter first 😅
What about if I use #10 ND filter how do you calculate for that.
Everyone is ignoring the data sheet information hidden in the plain sight for the RVP50 and other color films: the color cast correction filter itself takes 1/3 of the stop of the exposure. So, if you choose not to use one, no correction needed for 4 second exposure. It is not much of the difference, but technically, it should be accounted for.
I don’t believe the recommended 1/3 stop increase is factoring in the use of the filter. I think they’re expecting you to add the filter factor yourself on top of it. But I could be wrong. I should reach out to my Fuji contacts.
@@nickcarverphoto They put this in the specs: "Exposure correction values when using a filter relative to unfil- tered exposure results. A “+” followed by a number indicates the required increase in the lens opening", so yeah, they even indicate that the correction should be made using the aperture, not the time, so they were very scientific (using aperture vs time should not produce a significantly different outcome). Funny though, they didn't mention temperature as a significant factor. This is the ONLY real-world report when temperature affect the reciprocity: th-cam.com/video/YAPt_DcWAvw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the vid, can you tell me who's app you use as I have searched the app store and can't find the same one?
It's called Reciprocity Timer
Does this only happen manual mode?
Will a shutter mode corect this?
The automatic setting won’t compensate for reciprocity failure. The camera doesn’t know how much time to add to compensate nor that it even needs to compensate at all. You have to manually compensate via wider aperture or longer shutter.
Have you ever hypered film?
Excellent
Can someone explain to me what it means to add 2/3 of a stop? Like if I'm shooting a 16sec long exposure should I add 2/3 of that time for it to be 21sec?
Or should I add 2/3 in the compensation tab i have in my light meter app?
You should add 2/3 in the compensation tab.
Nick Carver unfortunately i have only full stops to choose from in my app, but it's better to add a full stop right? I've heard it's better to overexpose that to underexpose
@@singleaspringle6941 If it's print film (not reversal film), then yes you're better off over-exposing.
How do u know when to calculate for Reciprocity Failure? Never know how u do it
You should start worrying about it when you are over about one second, and to calculate it you should:
a) look up the reciprocity table in the info sheet for you specific film. That will tell you how the manufacturer suggests adjusting the exposure
b) if (a) is unavailable, a possible approximation is to use the following formula: T=t*(1+(log(t))^2), where t is the metered time (the time you read off of your light meter) and T is your adjusted time. This is a last-resort formula you should use only when you have no other info though, it's not accurate because reciprocity failure varies from film to film!
@Nick Carver and when a photographer does not take reciprocity into account then disappointment happens into the darkroom!!! Lots of swearing words follows!
Nothing brings out the swear words like seeing a negative that’s too thin.
@@nickcarverphoto yes the worst nightmare! I am missing developing a good rack of spirals full of 120 diaposive film (well that happened 25 years ago when I worked in a studio in Lisbon)
Good lord. I haven’t heard “reciprocity failure” since 1991.
❤️ ❤️ ❤️