Would love to see the next step with the HVAC duct work and how it integrates with the support structure. We don't seem to spend much time on duct work, carrying beams, floor trusses or ijoists and really the soup to nuts of how they integrate, IMHO. Love the series but maybe a little more on those topics would be nice. That ductwork would be nice if it covered not just the vents or shape or flex vs not, but the path, the return, everything. One more thing usually with OSB for the floors you'd probably go over 1" - x-factor is only 23/32" according to the web site - any special recommendation for the distance between joists - there product spec says it will handle 24 OC - but often minimum requirements aren't ideal.
joist depth and centre spacing are specified as needed to carry load over spans, these numbers are spit out by the computer programs used by the suppliers, which have pre-factored the bearing needs and span lengths, etc., all input design data from architectural drawings turns into an engineered drawing, we framers call this the joist-plan. It will clearly state the on-centre spacing, most often 19.2" or over longer spans (18'-ish) we see 16" spacing and "beefy" I-joists, such as the 14" depth, 2 1/2" chord joists on my current build.
clearly LVL is not a sponser, Matt, you should know the advantages of laminated veneer lumber, both structurally and aesthetically perfect. Next to SPF#2, LVL shines like solid gold. RESPECT to the framers on the Island build!👊🏼🔨
One big problem with spray foam under a slab. Concrete always cracks in the future if there a water leak, (or in this case on a island flooding is common) water will get under the slab and have no where to go. Possibly even lifting the concrete floor.
I don't think the water from the building could burrow under the concrete and lift it up, because the water is much lighter than the concrete and so would instead just pool on top of it. It's also standard to put a membrane under a slab, so the foam is just a different material for that water/air/vapor barrier.
fiber mesh can be got off amazon no issue so i'm sure a mini batch plant can get it. hell my local super mini batch plant that rents those little 1 yard mixing trailers has mesh for sale.
the quality of the work is topnotch but as an architect I find the exterior volumetric and envelope quite dull and basic ... the windows proportions and placement seems to be the result of the plan layout without any consideration to the elevation composition... that's quite disappointing. I have a question about the foam in the basement : Foam is a good insulator thanx to it's porosity. If I understand correctly there will be a non structural slab poured on top. isn't the weight of the Slab going to compress the foam and make it much more compact with less pores and thus a worst insulator ? or are you going to use light concrete like Lafarge's Airium ? we use a similar technique for our flat roofs with polyester than a light slab than waterproofing and finishes
Interesting…. “I wonder if the spray foam under the concrete method”… would be a problem in my area… With a high water table, etc.… We have sump pumps that will kick on occasionally but if they failed it could cause the basement floor to rupture from the hydrostatic pressure…. Since there’s no crack around the edge for the French drain, Typically that would act as a “pressure relief valve”… 🤔 I have heard of concrete basement floors rupturing from the hydrostatic pressure… if such a situation arose…. Perhaps I’m overthinking this…any thoughts ?
I finished 84 of those hold downs in a commercial building slab on grade after the sheeting was on witch was a bit of a pain,but I'll have to say they are extra heavy duty.
Checking my email, this video was released at the end of November on The Build Show Network. I imagine they are giving a fair bit of lead time to their own site and newsletter to motivate folks to sign up. It's free, and there's usually 2-3 additional videos that I enjoy each week, so worth joining IMO.
the shot that was missing is the close up of the floor joining bracket in place... i know though we saw adequate to understand it if we could see between the ladder rungs...
Dang those ceilings lol man! The foam on the basement floor wow super hip idea so that will actually give you warmth as insulation does even through the concrete correct? Did I understand this correctly? Wade you are a master you can build me a home anytime bud!
As far as I understand, they pour a concrete slab on top of the foam. Thus the slab will have room temperature and the foam insulates it against the ground.
Not sold on the need for underslab spray foam. Typical subgrade temp is 15 Celsius, give or take. I would rather use that money for a good bentonite seal on the perimeter upturn, and save the difference.
i cant believe i know more than matt about hold downs .........im from calif /earthquake country ......he was holding a simpson HDU -8 should have threaded rod into the concrete
How does that foam "channel" up the edge of the basement slab perform to hold back groundwater or pests? That seems like a huge potential for failure later down the road.
The pressure required to push water through that thin of a tapered section (.5-2in) over that large of an area (looked about 12in high) would have to be much higher than ground water pressures. Unless there was a systematic adhesion issue with the foam to the sidewall. Even then, the concrete slab will apply compressive force to the foam which will seal it even more. I would be very surprised if it leaked.
No fines in the rock, washed and like Dead Lata said "Looks like he has 3/4” stone instead." The foam needs to pernitrate 2-3 inches in the rock to form a mat. Spray Jones might have gone over this.
@+❶❺❶❽❻❾❸❽❽❻❷What'sapp you keep talking about these things being installed all over the place... and not once did he pan to have a look... we had to peak between the ladder...
Hey Matt, can you do some good building techniques for us peasants? I’m not sure how many of these million dollar houses are being bought, but I’m pretty sure there’s more of us poor people watching.
why your country only build houses by wood material ,guy? i am an architect and structure engineer , if i design house by reinforcement conscrete structure house i wonder i can sell them tocustomer in your country ?, thank so much
Y'all need to stop spreading fake information that you can staple wiring to the bottom of the joists. It's a code violation. I have an electrical license and it's extremely frustrating to hear you mislead your viewers. PS linkseal is everywhere. It's used on commercial jobs.
Don’t come up to New England states then. Most house ceilings get strapping for drywall to be hung, and electrical is commonly stapled to bottom of joists. It is completely code compliant here.
Its against code to staple romex perpendicular to floor joists in an UNFINISHED basement or living space. It is completely within code to staple romex to perpendicular floor joists when they are between furring strips and will be behind a finished ceiling.
This is the exact reason that I had to learn the hard way to check my research and information that I saw on videos like this. I like Matt Risinger overall but my local Schluter representative was trying to make a point with me that I DIDN’T listen to or understand… at first. First, don’t trust secondhand videos on the Internet. They might mean well but they do not speak for the manufacturer and you cannot guarantee that they are specifying the details of THAT the manufacture specifies. Schluter would not recommend a tile contractor for my projects that had taken their free workshops. I stubbornly fought against this until I realize that the certificate was a “certificate of participation”. Not a “certificate of certification” that they were competent and good at what they did. I got to see that first hand in the workshop how so true that was. Alarmingly concerning. Second, actually check with the manufacturer or codes in question for your area of what you’re actually wanting to do or trying to learn. There is a TH-cam channel with a very good name that I really believed in until I realized how flawed his TH-cam videos were sometimes. What discretion, liberties, decisions that we’re not in line with the actual manufacturer specifications for installation we’re being demonstrated in his videos. I think this person means well and believes strongly in what he is trying to do but it is concerning how close I came to following one of his videos like an instructional manual that I could trust. Third, the next time I write a contract to have a project done then the “details” that I liked from a Matt Risinger video will be sure to specify those “details” in the contract and not just point them out in a video to the contractor and fail to understand that they were acceptable “modifications to an installation” of that product but was not the minimum standards and requirements to install that product. I now realize that every time Matt Risinger says “detail(s)” or “That/this is a neat detail” every 3 to 5 seconds to pay attention that if I actually want that specified in my project then I better compared against the manufacturer specifications to ensure that it works for me and that I actually specify it in the contract. Basically make sure I actually do my research outside of a TH-cam video, check with the actual manufacturer of the product, code or resource in question and make sure you actually read it, I understand it and ensure that it will work for you and that it is still what you actually want. 🙄🤣😏👍 Great life lesson that I learned. 💯👍 Fourth, Matt Risinger brings allot of good content that you should check and verify for yourself but if there is a way for him to do something on overkill or find the most expensive product or installation possible on the market then he is great at doing that! 🤣😅💯👍 There are some things he does that I just find silly stupid but for the most part then I appreciate allot of the content that he brings. Thank you!
@@deadlata9767 300.4(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members. (1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1 1 ∕ 4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm ( 1 ∕ 16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring
@@CybekCusal This code is applying to wiring that is going through wood members that are going to be used for driving screws or nails into. The way you would apply this code to running romex perpendicular to the joists and between strapping would be making sure it is a safe distance away from the furring strips in case of accidental misplacement of a screw or nail. Also, many states have specifically amended this code to clarify that romex can be run in this manner. While furring strips may not be commonplace in certain regions, they are used exclusively in many areas and the wiring done exactly that way and they are completely within code.
Would love to see the next step with the HVAC duct work and how it integrates with the support structure. We don't seem to spend much time on duct work, carrying beams, floor trusses or ijoists and really the soup to nuts of how they integrate, IMHO. Love the series but maybe a little more on those topics would be nice. That ductwork would be nice if it covered not just the vents or shape or flex vs not, but the path, the return, everything. One more thing usually with OSB for the floors you'd probably go over 1" - x-factor is only 23/32" according to the web site - any special recommendation for the distance between joists - there product spec says it will handle 24 OC - but often minimum requirements aren't ideal.
joist depth and centre spacing are specified as needed to carry load over spans, these numbers are spit out by the computer programs used by the suppliers, which have pre-factored the bearing needs and span lengths, etc., all input design data from architectural drawings turns into an engineered drawing, we framers call this the joist-plan. It will clearly state the on-centre spacing, most often 19.2" or over longer spans (18'-ish) we see 16" spacing and "beefy" I-joists, such as the 14" depth, 2 1/2" chord joists on my current build.
Ohh Radon blocker too! That is a big win!
Look out Bob Vila. There is a new legend in town. Matt is taking over.
clearly LVL is not a sponser, Matt, you should know the advantages of laminated veneer lumber, both structurally and aesthetically perfect. Next to SPF#2, LVL shines like solid gold. RESPECT to the framers on the Island build!👊🏼🔨
Living in Iowa I can see a lot of those island building techniques being necessary here as well.
Especially after the derecho.
Nice clean looking Job
Nice build!! Love the quality!! I wish there were more contractors like y’all out there!
They need more customers first. Most people won't pay for these features.
Stunning ceilings!’n
Great episode!
Nice WKP participation in the parade
Thanks Matt learned something new didn’t know the color difference was associated with the thickness of the wall sheetings..
Link seal is the best. I adopted it from my commercial days.
One big problem with spray foam under a slab. Concrete always cracks in the future if there a water leak, (or in this case on a island flooding is common) water will get under the slab and have no where to go. Possibly even lifting the concrete floor.
I don't think the water from the building could burrow under the concrete and lift it up, because the water is much lighter than the concrete and so would instead just pool on top of it. It's also standard to put a membrane under a slab, so the foam is just a different material for that water/air/vapor barrier.
Very informative...great stuff
Great video!
fiber mesh can be got off amazon no issue so i'm sure a mini batch plant can get it. hell my local super mini batch plant that rents those little 1 yard mixing trailers has mesh for sale.
the quality of the work is topnotch but as an architect I find the exterior volumetric and envelope quite dull and basic ... the windows proportions and placement seems to be the result of the plan layout without any consideration to the elevation composition... that's quite disappointing. I have a question about the foam in the basement : Foam is a good insulator thanx to it's porosity. If I understand correctly there will be a non structural slab poured on top. isn't the weight of the Slab going to compress the foam and make it much more compact with less pores and thus a worst insulator ? or are you going to use light concrete like Lafarge's Airium ? we use a similar technique for our flat roofs with polyester than a light slab than waterproofing and finishes
That's what I thought too. The building is pretty cookie cutter style. Very disappointing.
Interesting…. “I wonder if the spray foam under the concrete method”… would be a problem in my area… With a high water table, etc.… We have sump pumps that will kick on occasionally but if they failed it could cause the basement floor to rupture from the hydrostatic pressure…. Since there’s no crack around the edge for the French drain, Typically that would act as a “pressure relief valve”… 🤔 I have heard of concrete basement floors rupturing from the hydrostatic pressure… if such a situation arose…. Perhaps I’m overthinking this…any thoughts ?
The temporary nature of US building never ceases to amaze. No bricks to be seen, just wood to rot.
I finished 84 of those hold downs in a commercial building slab on grade after the sheeting was on witch was a bit of a pain,but I'll have to say they are extra heavy duty.
awesome
Gotta watch the spray foam under high load concrete
If wade is reading this what does the k in wkp stand for? I'm betting it's either Kenny or Keith.
damn this is back from August? Quite a bit of leadtime to see for sure.
Checking my email, this video was released at the end of November on The Build Show Network. I imagine they are giving a fair bit of lead time to their own site and newsletter to motivate folks to sign up. It's free, and there's usually 2-3 additional videos that I enjoy each week, so worth joining IMO.
the shot that was missing is the close up of the floor joining bracket in place... i know though we saw adequate to understand it if we could see between the ladder rungs...
I miss Block Island.
Dang those ceilings lol man! The foam on the basement floor wow super hip idea so that will actually give you warmth as insulation does even through the concrete correct? Did I understand this correctly? Wade you are a master you can build me a home anytime bud!
As far as I understand, they pour a concrete slab on top of the foam. Thus the slab will have room temperature and the foam insulates it against the ground.
@@ReadersOfTheApocalypse okay thanks for this knowledge as well very cool idea for sure
Not sold on the need for underslab spray foam. Typical subgrade temp is 15 Celsius, give or take. I would rather use that money for a good bentonite seal on the perimeter upturn, and save the difference.
They don’t use strapping everywhere?
So not this old House...
The Windows don't do this place justice. Anderson isn't giving those away for part of the sponsor deal?🤣
@14:10
“Is there a huge Anderson Door there or something?”
“Yep that’s a big Anderson sliding door unit”
Everyone: 😐😑🙄😒
i cant believe i know more than matt about hold downs .........im from calif /earthquake country ......he was holding a simpson HDU -8
should have threaded rod into the concrete
How does that foam "channel" up the edge of the basement slab perform to hold back groundwater or pests? That seems like a huge potential for failure later down the road.
THIS
The pressure required to push water through that thin of a tapered section (.5-2in) over that large of an area (looked about 12in high) would have to be much higher than ground water pressures. Unless there was a systematic adhesion issue with the foam to the sidewall. Even then, the concrete slab will apply compressive force to the foam which will seal it even more. I would be very surprised if it leaked.
I was going to post were you going to tie the Floors and Roof down for Wind and Storms... ;-D
Its amazing when he said the location is always wet, raining, windy and harsh...why would you want to build your dream home in that climate?
Make strapping great again
so much wood...
Please elaborate stone vs gravel. 5:19 Regional variation of terms I suppose. I these parts gravel is a whole bunch of stones
Gravel is 3/8” stone generally. Looks like he has 3/4” stone instead.
No fines in the rock, washed and like Dead Lata said "Looks like he has 3/4” stone instead."
The foam needs to pernitrate 2-3 inches in the rock to form a mat. Spray Jones might have gone over this.
@@deadlata9767 interesting. Round these parts we can get 3/4 gravel
*hey... the isle of man....* what will they think up next?...
This seems like a really good use case for a 3d printed home. Less planning, logistics, labour, and probably more resistant to storms.
You aren’t that far from Padre island, Tx. I’m sad you aren’t interested in building/builders down here.
Yeah, not buying this foam longevity bs
You shouldn’t. Spray foam especially will not last well. No idea why they keep peddling it. Only foam I use is EPS.
Primo
i hear the discussion how strapping allows for micro-adjustments but i can't recall anybody ever really making any?...
@+❶❺❶❽❻❾❸❽❽❻❷What'sapp
wow... how generous... all for mouthing off too...
@+❶❺❶❽❻❾❸❽❽❻❷What'sapp
you must be the camera man...
@+❶❺❶❽❻❾❸❽❽❻❷What'sapp
you keep talking about these things being installed all over the place... and not once did he pan to have a look... we had to peak between the ladder...
Seems to be just lip service to me as well
@@aayotechnology
i honestly don't know if i would have thought of that?...
Sharpies are for amateurs, real tradies use pencils. Pencils can write on wet surfaces, sharpies wish they could.
meh.
there are sharpies that write on wet and oily surfaces.
it is easier to write with than pencil and more visible.
maybe do some more research?
Second.
Hey Matt, can you do some good building techniques for us peasants? I’m not sure how many of these million dollar houses are being bought, but I’m pretty sure there’s more of us poor people watching.
Lots of videos out there with mediocre builds... Not Matt's style
You can apply the expensive techniques on a budget, sacrifices may need to be made but I think in some cases it’s worth it.
All the building science can be applied on a budget, you just have to get creative about materials.
Usher this peasant out.
why your country only build houses by wood material ,guy? i am an architect and structure engineer , if i design house by reinforcement conscrete structure house i wonder i can sell them tocustomer in your country ?, thank so much
your staged pegboard makes me not want to watch ... at all. but good luck with the series.
Y'all need to stop spreading fake information that you can staple wiring to the bottom of the joists. It's a code violation. I have an electrical license and it's extremely frustrating to hear you mislead your viewers. PS linkseal is everywhere. It's used on commercial jobs.
Don’t come up to New England states then. Most house ceilings get strapping for drywall to be hung, and electrical is commonly stapled to bottom of joists. It is completely code compliant here.
Its against code to staple romex perpendicular to floor joists in an UNFINISHED basement or living space. It is completely within code to staple romex to perpendicular floor joists when they are between furring strips and will be behind a finished ceiling.
This is the exact reason that I had to learn the hard way to check my research and information that I saw on videos like this. I like Matt Risinger overall but my local Schluter representative was trying to make a point with me that I DIDN’T listen to or understand… at first.
First, don’t trust secondhand videos on the Internet. They might mean well but they do not speak for the manufacturer and you cannot guarantee that they are specifying the details of THAT the manufacture specifies. Schluter would not recommend a tile contractor for my projects that had taken their free workshops. I stubbornly fought against this until I realize that the certificate was a “certificate of participation”. Not a “certificate of certification” that they were competent and good at what they did. I got to see that first hand in the workshop how so true that was. Alarmingly concerning.
Second, actually check with the manufacturer or codes in question for your area of what you’re actually wanting to do or trying to learn. There is a TH-cam channel with a very good name that I really believed in until I realized how flawed his TH-cam videos were sometimes. What discretion, liberties, decisions that we’re not in line with the actual manufacturer specifications for installation we’re being demonstrated in his videos. I think this person means well and believes strongly in what he is trying to do but it is concerning how close I came to following one of his videos like an instructional manual that I could trust.
Third, the next time I write a contract to have a project done then the “details” that I liked from a Matt Risinger video will be sure to specify those “details” in the contract and not just point them out in a video to the contractor and fail to understand that they were acceptable “modifications to an installation” of that product but was not the minimum standards and requirements to install that product. I now realize that every time Matt Risinger says “detail(s)” or “That/this is a neat detail” every 3 to 5 seconds to pay attention that if I actually want that specified in my project then I better compared against the manufacturer specifications to ensure that it works for me and that I actually specify it in the contract. Basically make sure I actually do my research outside of a TH-cam video, check with the actual manufacturer of the product, code or resource in question and make sure you actually read it, I understand it and ensure that it will work for you and that it is still what you actually want. 🙄🤣😏👍 Great life lesson that I learned. 💯👍
Fourth, Matt Risinger brings allot of good content that you should check and verify for yourself but if there is a way for him to do something on overkill or find the most expensive product or installation possible on the market then he is great at doing that! 🤣😅💯👍 There are some things he does that I just find silly stupid but for the most part then I appreciate allot of the content that he brings. Thank you!
@@deadlata9767 300.4(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.
(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1 1 ∕ 4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm ( 1 ∕ 16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring
@@CybekCusal This code is applying to wiring that is going through wood members that are going to be used for driving screws or nails into. The way you would apply this code to running romex perpendicular to the joists and between strapping would be making sure it is a safe distance away from the furring strips in case of accidental misplacement of a screw or nail. Also, many states have specifically amended this code to clarify that romex can be run in this manner.
While furring strips may not be commonplace in certain regions, they are used exclusively in many areas and the wiring done exactly that way and they are completely within code.