I'll be doing more about using a lens like this... Please just ask if you've any questions? Don't forget the full categorised index of all my videos at www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/ If you'd like to make a small donation, I have a Kofi page: "Buy me a coffee" ko-fi.com/keithcooper
I am a camera nerd, but I have to say Keith has the nicest looking sunroom and backyard (garden?) on TH-cam. I love the cacti, colors, interior design and the greenery outside. Super cozy. Looks like a great place to read a book or have a nap.
Thanks - yes, the print stuff comes in 'waves' mainly due to me only having each printer here for a limited period ;-) I'm looking to expand this area, even if perhaps it puts off some who think this is a channel about printing ;-)
Nice video as usual! 👍🤓👍 ... Indeed, these ultrawide lenses are usually good to get artistic, unusual views. They can really be fun but require us to think and shoot differently. The photos you took with that lense are really great! ... Showing what a good, experienced photographer can do with just about any focal length: Making great photos no matter the subjet, location, and gear. (Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!)
@KeithCooper Maybe, since it's so wide, an exposure of 30 sec (or even more) will allow enough Iight to hit the sensor without showing start trail (?) but I agree that a wider aperture is better for astrophotography.... Anyway, I'm looking forward to your next video. Have a nice day.
8:07 The night filters are usually filtering out the part of the spectrum where most artificial lights are emitted. Good quality filters can help get a little darker vue of the sky when doing astrophotography in a light polluted area. It may be useful but it won't replace being in an area without light pollution, obviously.
After reading one of your reviews, I just picked up the Laowa 15mm f/4.5 Shift lens for Sony to replace the Laowa 12mm f/2.8+Magic Shift Convertor (which acts as a 17mm f/4) and am having to remember how to work effectively with that additional angle of view. 9mm or 10mm on full frame does look interesting - my previous widest was the Fuji 8mm on X-T3 (so equivalent to about 12mm on full-frame). I really like how you're creating your pictures - especially the interiors. I've been working more on exteriors but starting to think inside as well (so far mainly cathedral type shots). How easily do you get access to the university? Do you have a special pass or anything? I visited a few unis on open days with my daughter so felt "invited" on those occasions but I would really like to take more of the building interiors as well and worry about how best to get access.
Thanks I do some occasional teaching at DMU, in the architecture department [not the photography dept- my work is far too practical ;-)] - that and I did some photography for the architects for some of their new buildings. That means I'm 'known' to security [well, the people in charge] Of course, the real key is to look as if you ought to be there - confidence ;-)
Thanks, I’ll take your suggestion to take slightly different angles with my Laowa 15mm macro. I have been trying to get interesting pictures of some massive oak trees that have fallen and it is difficult to show the girth and length of the trees at the same time.
Yes - camera placement is the thing. It's something I get to use photographing interiors as well. An architect I know watched me 'explore' a space he'd designed and was fascinated how I walked/moved directly to different points in the space and captured views he'd not specifically thought of, but 'worked' as photos. Practice... ;-)
After using the Laowa 10 for 6 months I'll point out that this is not just a mm or two difference. I've been shooting 14mm since they came out and if I need wider switch to the phone with 13mm effective. I wasn't prepared for the incredible difference the 10 produced. I did consider sending it back as it really is a special purpose lense. Put it this way, you must think different using something that wide. So what I'm getting at they're not for everyone and buyers need to consider the vendor's return policy when buying. It's really hairy to use but produces very unique results when done right.
Good points - I remember the differences, the first time I got a 14, compared with my previous widest 16-35. When it works... yes definitely, but needs a lot of practice.
Keith one thing I noticed between this lens and its TArtisan sister, with the same lens prescription, is the DoF scales are different. I did a rough calculation on the Brightin Star version and it seems to imply the DoF is calculated with a CoC of around 8 microns. I would be interested in your perspective on this as, knowing what CoC has been assumed is useful when infinity focusing between the hyperfocal and ‘infinity’, as well as deep focus bracketing.
I'm afraid I've long regarded such scales as mostly decorative, and rarely [in practice] use any hyperfocal based focus methods especially at shorter focal lengths. An article I wrote several years ago [updated last year with a video] www.northlight-images.co.uk/when-hyperfocal-focusing-is-no-good/ Note the 2nd Merklinger reference at the end of the article
@@KeithCooperagreed, but such a scale is still useful if you wish to focus bracket, ie rotate the lens a fixed amount each time. Which is why I always estimate what CoC the manufacturer has used ;-)
Yes, I can see how that could be helpful in some situations. Where do you use it and why? Stacking isn't something I really use other than for my macro/close work.
@@KeithCooperI personally find the draw of using ultra wide angle lens is their deep focus cover, however, even an ultra wide lens such as this one can’t handle covering infinity to minimum focus at a sensible aperture, ie focused at both ends, without focus bracketing. With a depth of field scale you can easily carry out focus bracketing, ie rotate the lens a fixed amount each time. But for me I like to control the image to image defocus blur, ie at the overlap. I’ve ordered this lens, so I’m looking forward to experimenting with it.
It’s an interesting lens, for now I bought the pergear 14mm 2.8 ii lens instead but I may add this one too in the future, unfortunately my copy doesn’t seem to focus to infinity ( I want to test it for astro to confirm) but this is a common issue with these Chinese mf lenses, you never know whether or not they are properly calibrated…
![Printing a HUGE 10 foot [3m] panoramic photo print on the Canon PRO-1100 17" width printer](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oofTe8FVaSw/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll be doing more about using a lens like this... Please just ask if you've any questions? Don't forget the full categorised index of all my videos at www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/ If you'd like to make a small donation, I have a Kofi page: "Buy me a coffee" ko-fi.com/keithcooper
I am a camera nerd, but I have to say Keith has the nicest looking sunroom and backyard (garden?) on TH-cam. I love the cacti, colors, interior design and the greenery outside. Super cozy. Looks like a great place to read a book or have a nap.
Thanks - Cacti are my doing... The garden and decor are all Karen's doing...
Karen says thanks!
Nice review, but even more appreciate your insights into composition and scale. This old dog just learned new tricks.
Thanks - glad to have helped.
This is one reason I like doing this stuff!
Excellent review and commentary. Makes a nice occasional change from printers
Thanks - yes, the print stuff comes in 'waves' mainly due to me only having each printer here for a limited period ;-) I'm looking to expand this area, even if perhaps it puts off some who think this is a channel about printing ;-)
Nice video as usual! 👍🤓👍 ... Indeed, these ultrawide lenses are usually good to get artistic, unusual views. They can really be fun but require us to think and shoot differently. The photos you took with that lense are really great! ... Showing what a good, experienced photographer can do with just about any focal length: Making great photos no matter the subjet, location, and gear. (Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!)
Thanks - glad it was of interest!
Some night shots to come - let's see how no IS and only f/5.6 do hand held ;-)
@KeithCooper Maybe, since it's so wide, an exposure of 30 sec (or even more) will allow enough Iight to hit the sensor without showing start trail (?) but I agree that a wider aperture is better for astrophotography.... Anyway, I'm looking forward to your next video. Have a nice day.
8:07 The night filters are usually filtering out the part of the spectrum where most artificial lights are emitted. Good quality filters can help get a little darker vue of the sky when doing astrophotography in a light polluted area. It may be useful but it won't replace being in an area without light pollution, obviously.
Thanks - perhaps not for me in the midst of largish city... ;-)
Nice 1 Keith
Thanks!
After reading one of your reviews, I just picked up the Laowa 15mm f/4.5 Shift lens for Sony to replace the Laowa 12mm f/2.8+Magic Shift Convertor (which acts as a 17mm f/4) and am having to remember how to work effectively with that additional angle of view. 9mm or 10mm on full frame does look interesting - my previous widest was the Fuji 8mm on X-T3 (so equivalent to about 12mm on full-frame).
I really like how you're creating your pictures - especially the interiors. I've been working more on exteriors but starting to think inside as well (so far mainly cathedral type shots). How easily do you get access to the university? Do you have a special pass or anything? I visited a few unis on open days with my daughter so felt "invited" on those occasions but I would really like to take more of the building interiors as well and worry about how best to get access.
Thanks
I do some occasional teaching at DMU, in the architecture department [not the photography dept- my work is far too practical ;-)] - that and I did some photography for the architects for some of their new buildings.
That means I'm 'known' to security [well, the people in charge]
Of course, the real key is to look as if you ought to be there - confidence ;-)
Thanks, I’ll take your suggestion to take slightly different angles with my Laowa 15mm macro. I have been trying to get interesting pictures of some massive oak trees that have fallen and it is difficult to show the girth and length of the trees at the same time.
Yes - camera placement is the thing. It's something I get to use photographing interiors as well. An architect I know watched me 'explore' a space he'd designed and was fascinated how I walked/moved directly to different points in the space and captured views he'd not specifically thought of, but 'worked' as photos.
Practice... ;-)
Hi Keith, it might be worth to experiment a little bit with DxO ViewPoint 5 and this lens.
Yes - I'm doing a review of the latest Viewpoint at some time and it will likely feature...
After using the Laowa 10 for 6 months I'll point out that this is not just a mm or two difference. I've been shooting 14mm since they came out and if I need wider switch to the phone with 13mm effective. I wasn't prepared for the incredible difference the 10 produced. I did consider sending it back as it really is a special purpose lense. Put it this way, you must think different using something that wide. So what I'm getting at they're not for everyone and buyers need to consider the vendor's return policy when buying. It's really hairy to use but produces very unique results when done right.
Good points - I remember the differences, the first time I got a 14, compared with my previous widest 16-35.
When it works... yes definitely, but needs a lot of practice.
Keith one thing I noticed between this lens and its TArtisan sister, with the same lens prescription, is the DoF scales are different. I did a rough calculation on the Brightin Star version and it seems to imply the DoF is calculated with a CoC of around 8 microns. I would be interested in your perspective on this as, knowing what CoC has been assumed is useful when infinity focusing between the hyperfocal and ‘infinity’, as well as deep focus bracketing.
I'm afraid I've long regarded such scales as mostly decorative, and rarely [in practice] use any hyperfocal based focus methods especially at shorter focal lengths.
An article I wrote several years ago [updated last year with a video]
www.northlight-images.co.uk/when-hyperfocal-focusing-is-no-good/
Note the 2nd Merklinger reference at the end of the article
@@KeithCooperagreed, but such a scale is still useful if you wish to focus bracket, ie rotate the lens a fixed amount each time. Which is why I always estimate what CoC the manufacturer has used ;-)
Yes, I can see how that could be helpful in some situations. Where do you use it and why?
Stacking isn't something I really use other than for my macro/close work.
@@KeithCooperI personally find the draw of using ultra wide angle lens is their deep focus cover, however, even an ultra wide lens such as this one can’t handle covering infinity to minimum focus at a sensible aperture, ie focused at both ends, without focus bracketing. With a depth of field scale you can easily carry out focus bracketing, ie rotate the lens a fixed amount each time. But for me I like to control the image to image defocus blur, ie at the overlap. I’ve ordered this lens, so I’m looking forward to experimenting with it.
Yes - I can see how that could work if you wanted that style - thanks
Speaking of yet another 50mm lens, they do an f/0.95 one for people who can't afford the Noctilux.
Yes, noticed that one ;-)
I'd perhaps compare it with my Olympus f/1.2 One I actually purchased some 40 years ago - that and my EF50/1.4
It’s an interesting lens, for now I bought the pergear 14mm 2.8 ii lens instead but I may add this one too in the future, unfortunately my copy doesn’t seem to focus to infinity ( I want to test it for astro to confirm) but this is a common issue with these Chinese mf lenses, you never know whether or not they are properly calibrated…
Yes - I always give them a solid basic test to make sure I don't have a 'lemon'
This one was rock solid...