Watched this one again, as it is a very good one. You said somethig about getting a face showered with glass, this happened to me many moons ago. You see, my father was what you could call a conosour of Vodka, and drank up to a fifth a day of the clear gold. Back then things being as they were, all garbage was to be burned before the truck collected the ash, thus saving space in the dump and the truck. It was my chore, then a boy of 9 to carry out the garbage, and burn same each day, but garbage collection day. I used to really enjoy watching that fire, perhaps I was a fire bug in the making, however when one of dad's empty bottles exploded from the heat, throwing molten glass into my face and thankfully into my glasses, I quickly gave up the joy of watching fires, and began to dispare at taking out the garbage. The scars are still with me nearly 60 years latter but in the process of aging, have become quite hard to find.
In future versions of this floodlight, please remember to leave the earth wire to be the longest wire. The reason being, if the whole mains wire gets pulled out, the earth wire gets pulled out last. Just a small extra safety measure. Other than that, a great build, especially as you included a earth wire. Many people would leave that out because earthed cable costs more.
I think a lot of people on youtube try too hard to be impressive in some way or another, and it rarely ends up working out. The nicest things about your vids are the down to earth attitude, practical advice, a bit of fun and humor... it just never feels like a waste of time to watch. The pace is just right. Not too slow (ugh), not too fast where critical info is skipped (ughhh). Come to think of it, some people who shall remain nameless often say things like: "I'm not going to explain how this works because it's complicated/would take too long" - or something to that effect. Sorry but, it takes seconds to cover the basics of something in a general way, if you actually know what you're talking about. Better than leaving a big gap for the inexperienced viewers to have to fill in somehow. ANYHOW. I hope you realize how many people love you, whether they admit it or not haha. :D
wow 37 minutes and all i can remember is Rice, white wine like substance and chocolates with pink leds. I l also love how your not bothered about leaving the camera running while you quickly go away to grab something rather than editing that out. You have an amazing calming voice, just love listening to your videos/
Love your technique for holding the board and solder in one hand. You make it look so natural and easy. When I have to do it I’m about as graceful as a baby deer trying to walk for the first time. If you’ve never seen that it’s quite amusing but kind of pitiful at the same time.
It was great to see you take this all the way from an idea to an actual assembled unit. Good commentary as well, I really learned something from this. I think you would make a great college teacher!
Thanks BC for another great vid! Handy tip: If you make and install a bunch of these floods around your house, you wont need rose colored glasses to look at the world anymore! This is an excellent video from circuit design to layout to board manufacturer to final test showing all of the steps necessary, and good explanations of the reasoning why at each step...with amusing Cliveisms interspersed "...white wine-like substance for peasants...". Great stuff!
I was 40 years back in time when you were drilling the holes in the pw, thanks for the video and your way of doing it all, you are so relaxing and funny at the same time.
to hell with it ... I learned more from you then I ever had during my 5 years of study ... I'm not saying my teachers are to blame... but you just make it far more fun with visualization of what are you working on. Anyway ... if you ever get around to read this :) ... I salute you and send a BIG thank you.
Clive, I love how you are obviously knowledgeable about this stuff but it still find it cool to take stuff apart, explore and even improve things! Getting lost in the task is part of the fun! Best Regards!
Great job. I loved seeing the end-to-end on the whole project and seeing the PCB being actually developed. I hadn't even thought it was realistic to do that on a hobbyist level before now.
Liked the project. Long videos are great! The comments about the over blown reaction to lead solder are so true. I'm an electrician too and liked the supermarket story. I work in a hospital, and have gotten zapped in odd locations. An operating room was memorable.
Thanks for the video Clive, I quite enjoyed it. In regards to industry going lead free solder, it wasn't so much to protect workers from lead fumes, but to protect children and the environment near waste disposal sites who end up with lead flavoured drinking water when huge amounts of electronics are dumped.
+Audio Joe Clive's videos are oddly very soothing--almost zen-like! I usually tell myself I'll only watch one or two in the evening, and then I get caught up re-watching earlier installments.
It's been a long time since I etched a circuit board, though a little less than a long time since I soldered anything, but I think I could make this without too much problem. I enjoyed this a lot and there is much to be said for the experience of watching something being made, (probably more so if making it myself), especially when accompanied by Clive's dulcet tones.
I have a pair of 25+ year old xeron 170's I stole from my dad as a boy. They're great snips but, they look like these have lead the life of a pair of tin snips. One blade has the end missing and there is about 4mm of viable cutting surface but, still the best damn snips my dad ever bought!
I've been soldering for 56 years and no lead poisoning, yet, AFAIK. BTW you are correct to consider the voltage rating of resistors. I've seen many failures of lower voltage resistors connected across 350v DC. I prefer the 0.75 Watt/350v resistors sold by Farnell.
I bought an outdoor floor that runs on 12 V ac or DC. I bought a real outdoor transformer and so far it has been working for 5 years! The leds last forever but the supply lasts a year or two.
HELL yeah, Xuron! :D I LOVE mine. I use the cutters and a set of their pliers almost every single day. They have been nothing short of amazing in terms of quality and longevity.
The lead removal from solder is less about the person performing the soldering and more about landfills and improper disposal. It leaches into the environment and can end up contaminating aquifers and end up in people's drinking water, and there it really can cause serious issues.
That hand-drilling routine brings back memories, but these days I wouldn't give up my mini CNC mill for anything - engrave the traces, drill the holes, route out the board all in one... :)
On RoHS: “RoHS and other efforts to reduce hazardous materials in electronics are motivated in part to address the global issue of consumer electronics *waste*.” Lead has been shown to have extremely negative effects as a pollutant: cognitive difficulties etc.. Waste incineration (possibly with energy recovery) springs to mind as a risk where discarded electronics are not separated from general household waste. With that said, the best way of reducing the hazards of e-waste would be to create less of it: Right To Repair and mandatory MTBF requirements at minimum, and ideally, an attempt to combat psychological behavioural manipulation (or "influence" if you prefer) by advertisers intended to promote excessive and wasteful consumption.
Using some SMD resistors and an SMD bridge rectifier, you could probably squish another row of LEDs in there. Also if you're worried about the isolation, you could use some nylon screws instead, and have nylon (eh, almost any plastic will do) spacers as well, to keep the board off of the back of the housing.
great work, Clive! thanks for sharing it with us. One day soon, I'd like to build my own modestly bright, appropriately coloured wash light. since you mentioned detonation: I saw recently that the Isle of Man had a small incident with some unexploded WW2 ordnance. That looks like it was rather exciting.
Glad to see you consuming sustenance and an adult beverage during construction and design. Must keep that energy level up, keep those neurons perking! Great vid, as usual.
Great project, love your vids! Lead soldier can be toxic if used in plumbing as it leaches into the water, that was my understanding to why there was a big push for its ban
Lead solder is banned in commerdial products not because it's dangerous to handle, but because it's polluting when the product eventually goes to the trash. Also heavy metals are neurotoxic long before they're deadly.
Don't eat it and wash your hands. No soldering iron I've ever seen will gasify lead. If you were to get a hand full of dirt, lead would most likely be somewhere around 0.001-0.0001% of that pile.
Your Supermarket Story reminded me of a Job during my Apprentice Time :) I worked in a Supermarket where they put Mains Voltage on the Metalgrid of the Hung Ceiling, apparently to get rid of Rats :D The Store was closed so there weren't many people around. But it kicked me off the Ladder, and I couldn't stop yelling when I found out why I got a Shock.
I wish it would have been that. The Ceiling wasn't grounded, but there was a Junction Box with a Single Brown Wire coming out, and attached to the Grid with one of those Fork Cable Lugs and a Self Tapping Screw.
Great vid! Very interesting to see circuit design and repurposing. Glad to see from the comments below that you're planning on doing some more vids like these. I'll be watching them all with a tin of cheap aussie lager in hand. Keep it up
Hey Clive, I am a retired Contract Plumber and cut my first teeth as an apprentice pouring lead joints and sweating copper with 50/50. The lose marbles in my noggin are the same lose one's I was born with in"56". I have my own personal theory on the ban. It goes to x-ray protection from Nukes for underground bunkers built too protect those who lead us like hogs to slaughter
Shouldn't the earth wire be longer than L and N so it will be the last wire to get disconnected I case the cable gets 'pulled' too much. Nice lamp. I can just listen to you for hours. It's wery therapeutic.
Those small project videos are my favourites! :) And maybe someone pointed this out already or you have discovered it yourself: you can layout the 3x5 LEDs in a way that the positive and negative contacts end up at the same side. Instead of making three long rows going from side to side just make it one row running to the other side and fill the other two rows in a zig-zag-pattern.
Lead solder was banned for manufacturing because it's difficult/not cost effective to remove the lead when the PCBs become waste, not because of any user health concerns. In fact, soldering with lead free solder is worse for the operator than using 60/40 solder. The fumes from the resins in lead free solder are more acrid and the smoke particulates are finer, meaning they get absorbed into the bloodstream easier.
Oh, and about prototypes failing on powerup. I had one the other week. I heard the telltale "ptss" -sound and, as the smoke wafted up to me, I stood there thinking: "Hmm, yeah, putting a standard 47 Ohm resistor directly across an unregulated 24Vdc supply may not have been my brightest idea". :-P
Thanks Clive. Nice build. I've always enjoyed using this mnemonic I came up with whilst trying to remember resistor colour codes. 'B'ad 'B'oys 'R'ape 'O'ur 'Y'oung 'G'irls 'B'ut 'V'iolet 'G'ives 'W'illingly without a 'S'econd 'G'uess.
"a smoky, flamey fuse, but a fuse nonetheless". I had a boss who was fond of saying "everything is a fuse". And for sufficient voltages and currents, he's right, which was his point.
Speaking of getting a slight shock, brings to mind an incident in Viet Nam, back in 1971. I was assigned to a communications Center running the landline teletype system for an Engeneer Group Headquarters. Because of the heat in Nam, and the nature of the equipment, an air conditioner was included in our fiberglass dome type structure, covered with sand bags and withing a chain-link/barbed wire fence with a 24 hour armed guard at the tunnel like door into the structure. Our immediate leader was a very small Staff Sergeant named Tinny. Now one day that air conditioner failed, and Tinny was called to repair it. Remember, in the US Army, the leadership thought that anyone in communications knew all about electricity and could repair any sort of equipment that plugged into the wall. So SSG Tinny went at it, trying to work on that air conditioner, which was located at the far end of the building, in a sort of tunnel that was about 4 feet high, Tinny being all of 5 feet tall himself. He really was a communicator, but not an electrician. Every time he tried to hook up the wiring to the new unit he had installed, he came in contact with the live line and jumped straight in the air, smacking his head in the tunnel. In the end, there were three of us laying on the cement floor, Tinny from the shock, and the two of us working that day in laughter. After SSG Tinny backed off, I went forward and wired the unit, well after cutting the mains first much to the anger of both SSG Tinny and our commo chief who thought our landlines had to be on line 24/7. We were down for about 3 minutes while I made the necessary connections and then back up and running. That said, every time I think back to that day I have to chuckle, SSG Tinny came through it pretty much allright save a few bumps on his head, and a slight burn on one finger.
Where does he get these led lights from? We have old skool incandescent flood lights with two 150w bulbs each that burn all night and I'd like to be able to substantially cut that usage down.
+khachaturian at least he's smart enough to mix it with chocolate! Never seen that brand here in the states. I like the Andes mints and the anything swiss chocolate. Russel Stover is the poor man's Godiva over here.
Just in case someone at Xuron is following Clive I'd like to mention that because of this video I just bought a (genuine) Xuron 170-II Flush Cutter and a 440 Precision Scissor. I haven't had a chance to use them much yet but they certainly have a nice look and feel to them.
The Xuron snips aren't even that expensive, are they? I paid about £8 for a pair of Xuron 170-IIF (Micro-Shear® Flush Cutters with Lead Retainer) in the UK. They aren't the strongest snips in the world, so I have a pair of Engineer brand snips, model NS-06, that I use for most purposes, leaving the Xuron snips for cutting off component legs with that nice flat cut that they give. The lead retainer feature of the 170-IIF is super handy as well. It's not 100% reliable, but most of the time the snips actually hold on to the lead that you've just cut off, rather than letting it go flying across the room, which is super handy :)
The good thing about embarrassing yourself in public with highly painful or intense experiences is that the experience itself tends to overshadow the embarrassment. If you're lucky your mind is too scattered by the event to register people's reactions lol. Man, social dynamics are weird
nice cliveWork - I also like the green sticks helping to bite the copper from the PCB - never seen it before. How are they called (I'd like to get some)?
at 6:37 isnt the live trace not a bit too close to the screw in the bottom left? I'd put a little bit more distance between the screw and trace just to be sure.
+Godfrey Poon Yeah, that's costly. At those RPMs even a simple brad snipped at an angle will "drill" a clean hole. If you want it to last longer heat it to red hot and quench it some peanut oil or tranmission fluid. Saltwater brine works well for low carbon alloy steels also.
Very neat repurposing project, it'd be fun to see the superflux one too... :) And a possible idea for other videos, Clive's storytime, just talking about things you've done that ended with hilarity, embarrassment or otherwise, that supermarket story was quite a good one... :D
On the 5x3 design 5 1/2 minutes in, couldn't you have gone up & down on the 1st 2 rows then along the bottom to avoid the neutral line along the bottom?
Clive, is it possible that a Littlefuse or small Buss fuse for a low wattage device that has been working perfectly up until the moment it went dead (a Heathkit indoor/outdoor thermometer with a neon Panaplex display from the early '70s) might have failed due to the old age of the fuse?
+BobEckert56 Yes. Fuses can fatigue over time and fail for no particular reason. Make sure you replace it with the exact correct type, and get a spare or two just in case.
bigclivedotcom I built it back in the 1970s and if I do say so myself did a super job. Great quality components. I still have the assembly manual of course, but I appreciate the reminder about using the exact same fuse type and rating, it can't be said too often. The fact that it has worked perfectly for that long (save for a replacement of the Panaplex display once) made me wonder about this. I'll check the fuse with a ohmmeter (also Heath of course), hope I find it open and when I replace it, hope the patient pops back to life. Thank you for your answer. Really like your channel a lot!
I have to say, etching the PCB in a bag like that is genius...... I remember the old days of using a make-shift tank that bubbled crap everywhere and always makes a mess..... I've been learning too much from your channel... This has to stop :P
Had you ever considered opening up an online shop where you resell low-volume quantities of items such as these? Because while you can't compete in mass with china, you can certainly compete with hand-finished quality. And nobody would complain about paying for quality, save for the ignorant among us. At the very least you could buy a bunch of low-quality products, spiff them up and flip a bunch for a modest profit.
+bluephreakr I agree. BigClive does a great job of making his builds serviceable in the future, which is so uncommon in today's use-and-throw-away electronics industry. I would buy his stuff simply because I know I would be able to keep it working for decades into the future.
+bluephreakr +1 for this! I'd buy something by +bigclivedotcom over other products any day! I find myself in shops and online asking myself "Would it be good enough for BigClive / Dave Jones / Mike / etc. to buy and use it?"...
+Doug Reed IT's probably the g o 0 g le version of an idiot light. They suspended my right to post for two weeks (which is probablynext for you!) because I wrote a friend 3 comments in a row .... now he has to specifically OK my comments, individually. Hickock45 lost his channel for a few days and I suspect its a similar issue. They have way too many comments to do any kind of manual review. I did "challenge" it and lost -- surely computerized, too. Now I think I see a bit of both sides -- so many people making second names (while I never have) versus people losing their rights over nothing. couldnt find much about this when i g00gled it -- no surprise there!. its brother g00gle! ;D
Too bad I live in the states ... if Clive did something like that, I'd totally go to his place to help out :P The problem is, it just takes too much time, and doesn't get you enough money ... unless you have things overpriced (well, excessively marked up).
bigclive, My first soldering iron was one that you had to heat on the gas cooker, lrg head 1/2" by 1/2" X 2" with 6" long bar and handle. very early 70's couldn't afford a expensive electric one. I made some good things with that, mind you boards were bigger!
great build Clive, when using your new cutters does the slicing of them stop the wire from shooting out, i noticed you place your finger over the end, if i tried that with my standard side cutters the wire would embed its self into my finger.
While you are drilling holes, I will add this. For the 15 LEDs, run along one long row and zig-zag (can I say that?) back the other two rows. Also, how bad would it be to put the paper printout ON the component side of the board and leave it there?
HI Clive, could you tell me what make your plug in Amp, Watt, Volt meter is? Also, any chance of you doing a review of different makes? I've been looking at a few (and other YT reviews) but respect your methods and opinions on such things. Thanks, Stuart.
Really love this video. Bigclive I would like to power a 40vdc wall pack led board and fixture. The driver is no longer working. I would like to use one of my ryobi 40v tool batteries to power it with an infrared remote control circuit. The battery is being charged thru mppt dc conversion. What kind of cc cv switching board would be used? Would make an interesting video.
Nice little project Clive- Anyone know the name of the housing for the board? I would like to build a few of these with brighter LEDS for DIY work lights Thanks
I recommend the standard 10/20W LED floodlights as work lights. Preferably the traditional ones with drivers so that you can service then when needed. The floodlight adapted in this video was an unusual style.
It would appear that the LEDs on this module might be individually replaceable by using a SMS rework station hot air wand. Even allowing for the destruction of the defective parts. What do you think?
+James M DeLuca The original LEDs were non standard multi-chip devices. Not easy to get. The PCB is also a fibreglass/aluminium laminate making it harder to solder devices due to its high thermal absorption.
Nice - although do be aware if you are going to use white helmet LEDs that used to be popular in early LED lamp designs - they will have a real world L50 of between 2000 and 5000 hours. L50 being the time before its down to 50% of its light output. They also commonly fail completely in this time spam. Always best to avoid the older leaded helmet white LEDs for any design thats going to have some long duty - not a problem for a PIR driven device. This only applies to the white LEDs that are UV excited phosphor - coloured LEDs have greater lifespans (depending on power output of course)
You could have partially removed the first clip. I though you were going to do that. In fact, would it have worked if you just let some of the etchant in and resealed?
The bad LED would have had to fail shorted in order for the rest of them to stay lit, what would be the best way to find a failed one if it had failed open? Is testing one at a time going to be the fastest, or is there a trick for figuring it out with less hassle?
+Das Grinch The open circuit voltage is so high that they usually fail short circuit. To find an open circuit one you'd either bridge them individually (or in large groups to narrow it down quickly) or for a safer test use a meter on diode test to make the LEDs glow individually.
Speaking of the silkscreen transparency, how do you know that "it takes shitloads of ink"? What indicator do you have, from a given print setting, that it hadn't had its "shitload" yet? Also, the Seno GS components can be had easily off ebay. The clips are "Turbo Clips", the PE tube is either industrial stuff (try "layflat polythene tube"), vacuum sealer bags (if you don't mind the structured surface), or possibly freezer bags. By the way, the Turbo Clips don't just come in assortments of several sizes, there are also packs of ~10 of a single size.
+Anvilshock When using the highest ink setting it all instantly absorbs into the film with high definition. Lesser films end up with wet unabsorbed ink on the surface. It would be nice if I could actually increase the amount of ink to see just how much of a shitload it could take.
big clive im using express pcb how are you flipping the letter to show properly when you etch your pcb? right now if i flip my design all my letter are backwards. or are you designing your pcb upside down so the letters are right?
+Aikouka Ookami When I put text on the top silkscreen it's the right way up. When text is placed on the back copper side it is automatically flipped so it reads correctly from that side.
Could one replace the ink mask w/ direct-print 3d filament mask (petg, pla... tpu?) The process would be one-time use, but would be great for one-offs, prototyoing, etc.
the lm 2576s adj p+ is a great soulution for parralel wired high power led like cree 3 w or rgbw 10w tota load or similar 3.3v 270 ma incredible results iv had im blown away with the output and duration
Watched this one again, as it is a very good one. You said somethig about getting a face showered with glass, this happened to me many moons ago. You see, my father was what you could call a conosour of Vodka, and drank up to a fifth a day of the clear gold. Back then things being as they were, all garbage was to be burned before the truck collected the ash, thus saving space in the dump and the truck. It was my chore, then a boy of 9 to carry out the garbage, and burn same each day, but garbage collection day. I used to really enjoy watching that fire, perhaps I was a fire bug in the making, however when one of dad's empty bottles exploded from the heat, throwing molten glass into my face and thankfully into my glasses, I quickly gave up the joy of watching fires, and began to dispare at taking out the garbage. The scars are still with me nearly 60 years latter but in the process of aging, have become quite hard to find.
In future versions of this floodlight, please remember to leave the earth wire to be the longest wire. The reason being, if the whole mains wire gets pulled out, the earth wire gets pulled out last. Just a small extra safety measure. Other than that, a great build, especially as you included a earth wire. Many people would leave that out because earthed cable costs more.
I think a lot of people on youtube try too hard to be impressive in some way or another, and it rarely ends up working out. The nicest things about your vids are the down to earth attitude, practical advice, a bit of fun and humor... it just never feels like a waste of time to watch. The pace is just right. Not too slow (ugh), not too fast where critical info is skipped (ughhh). Come to think of it, some people who shall remain nameless often say things like: "I'm not going to explain how this works because it's complicated/would take too long" - or something to that effect. Sorry but, it takes seconds to cover the basics of something in a general way, if you actually know what you're talking about. Better than leaving a big gap for the inexperienced viewers to have to fill in somehow. ANYHOW. I hope you realize how many people love you, whether they admit it or not haha. :D
wow 37 minutes and all i can remember is Rice, white wine like substance and chocolates with pink leds. I l also love how your not bothered about leaving the camera running while you quickly go away to grab something rather than editing that out. You have an amazing calming voice, just love listening to your videos/
Love your technique for holding the board and solder in one hand. You make it look so natural and easy. When I have to do it I’m about as graceful as a baby deer trying to walk for the first time. If you’ve never seen that it’s quite amusing but kind of pitiful at the same time.
Your videos are contagiously addictive in a very nice calming way.
He's the Bob Ross of Electronics. :) XD
It was great to see you take this all the way from an idea to an actual assembled unit. Good commentary as well, I really learned something from this. I think you would make a great college teacher!
Thanks BC for another great vid! Handy tip: If you make and install a bunch of these floods around your house, you wont need rose colored glasses to look at the world anymore!
This is an excellent video from circuit design to layout to board
manufacturer to final test showing all of the steps necessary, and good
explanations of the reasoning why at each step...with amusing Cliveisms
interspersed "...white wine-like substance for peasants...". Great stuff!
I was 40 years back in time when you were drilling the holes in the pw, thanks for the video and your way of doing it all, you are so relaxing and funny at the same time.
to hell with it ... I learned more from you then I ever had during my 5 years of study ... I'm not saying my teachers are to blame... but you just make it far more fun with visualization of what are you working on.
Anyway ... if you ever get around to read this :) ... I salute you and send a BIG thank you.
+RoPo 0101 Glad to inspire. I intend to do more custom builds like this in the future.
Clive, I love how you are obviously knowledgeable about this stuff but it still find it cool to take stuff apart, explore and even improve things!
Getting lost in the task is part of the fun!
Best Regards!
Great job. I loved seeing the end-to-end on the whole project and seeing the PCB being actually developed. I hadn't even thought it was realistic to do that on a hobbyist level before now.
well done my friend
Speaking of relaxing, your videos very much fall into that category.
I watch them in bed. Relaxes the day away.
Liked the project. Long videos are great!
The comments about the over blown reaction to lead solder are so true.
I'm an electrician too and liked the supermarket story. I work in a hospital, and have gotten zapped in odd locations. An operating room was memorable.
Lol I think I got too engrossed watching the video as I tried blowing away as he was drilling
+WM2869 I thought it was just me that did that.
Imagine it in VR
You blew some in my ear !!!
I always do that. I also want to grab the screws he ejects so he doesn't lose them!
lol no way!!
Thanks for the video Clive, I quite enjoyed it. In regards to industry going lead free solder, it wasn't so much to protect workers from lead fumes, but to protect children and the environment near waste disposal sites who end up with lead flavoured drinking water when huge amounts of electronics are dumped.
i love these longe project videos. Could watch you all day long
+Audio Joe Clive's videos are oddly very soothing--almost zen-like!
I usually tell myself I'll only watch one or two in the evening, and then I get caught up re-watching earlier installments.
+Benjamin Shelton Same with me. always ending in watching like 10 of them
Whenever I tinker, I just start with one of his videos and then let TH-cam's Autoplay have a go.
It's fun to see you tear apart stuff, but I like it better when you make something BETTER than it was. Keep it up.
That is a very clever way of cleanly etching and drilling a small PCB! Bravo!
It's been a long time since I etched a circuit board, though a little less than a long time since I soldered anything, but I think I could make this without too much problem. I enjoyed this a lot and there is much to be said for the experience of watching something being made, (probably more so if making it myself), especially when accompanied by Clive's dulcet tones.
loved every minute. thank you. I'm currently experimenting with a Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet red type substance
I have a pair of 25+ year old xeron 170's I stole from my dad as a boy. They're great snips but, they look like these have lead the life of a pair of tin snips.
One blade has the end missing and there is about 4mm of viable cutting surface but, still the best damn snips my dad ever bought!
I've been soldering for 56 years and no lead poisoning, yet, AFAIK. BTW you are correct to consider the voltage rating of resistors. I've seen many failures of lower voltage resistors connected across 350v DC. I prefer the 0.75 Watt/350v resistors sold by Farnell.
I bought an outdoor floor that runs on 12 V ac or DC. I bought a real outdoor transformer and so far it has been working for 5 years! The leds last forever but the supply lasts a year or two.
HELL yeah, Xuron! :D I LOVE mine. I use the cutters and a set of their pliers almost every single day. They have been nothing short of amazing in terms of quality and longevity.
The lead removal from solder is less about the person performing the soldering and more about landfills and improper disposal. It leaches into the environment and can end up contaminating aquifers and end up in people's drinking water, and there it really can cause serious issues.
That hand-drilling routine brings back memories, but these days I wouldn't give up my mini CNC mill for anything - engrave the traces, drill the holes, route out the board all in one... :)
On RoHS: “RoHS and other efforts to reduce hazardous materials in electronics are motivated in part to address the global issue of consumer electronics *waste*.” Lead has been shown to have extremely negative effects as a pollutant: cognitive difficulties etc.. Waste incineration (possibly with energy recovery) springs to mind as a risk where discarded electronics are not separated from general household waste. With that said, the best way of reducing the hazards of e-waste would be to create less of it: Right To Repair and mandatory MTBF requirements at minimum, and ideally, an attempt to combat psychological behavioural manipulation (or "influence" if you prefer) by advertisers intended to promote excessive and wasteful consumption.
Using some SMD resistors and an SMD bridge rectifier, you could probably squish another row of LEDs in there.
Also if you're worried about the isolation, you could use some nylon screws instead, and have nylon (eh, almost any plastic will do) spacers as well, to keep the board off of the back of the housing.
great work, Clive! thanks for sharing it with us. One day soon, I'd like to build my own modestly bright, appropriately coloured wash light.
since you mentioned detonation: I saw recently that the Isle of Man had a small incident with some unexploded WW2 ordnance. That looks like it was rather exciting.
Glad to see you consuming sustenance and an adult beverage during construction and design. Must keep that energy level up, keep those neurons perking! Great vid, as usual.
Great project, love your vids! Lead soldier can be toxic if used in plumbing as it leaches into the water, that was my understanding to why there was a big push for its ban
Lead solder is banned in commerdial products not because it's dangerous to handle, but because it's polluting when the product eventually goes to the trash. Also heavy metals are neurotoxic long before they're deadly.
Don't eat it and wash your hands. No soldering iron I've ever seen will gasify lead. If you were to get a hand full of dirt, lead would most likely be somewhere around 0.001-0.0001% of that pile.
i have the 12v ver and its the best by far less power and just keeps working 18 months and still going strong :)
Clive you're such a big role model for me. Keep up the great work.
Your Supermarket Story reminded me of a Job during my Apprentice Time :) I worked in a Supermarket where they put Mains Voltage on the Metalgrid of the Hung Ceiling, apparently to get rid of Rats :D
The Store was closed so there weren't many people around. But it kicked me off the Ladder, and I couldn't stop yelling when I found out why I got a Shock.
+DJ1812 That sounds more like leakage on an ungrounded ceiling. Not that uncommon.
I wish it would have been that.
The Ceiling wasn't grounded, but there was a Junction Box with a Single Brown Wire coming out, and attached to the Grid with one of those Fork Cable Lugs and a Self Tapping Screw.
Hope you get to half a million soon Clive you sure do deserve it! Love your videos
Great vid! Very interesting to see circuit design and repurposing. Glad to see from the comments below that you're planning on doing some more vids like these. I'll be watching them all with a tin of cheap aussie lager in hand.
Keep it up
Hey Clive, I am a retired Contract Plumber and cut my first teeth as an apprentice pouring lead joints and sweating copper with 50/50.
The lose marbles in my noggin are the same lose one's I was born with in"56".
I have my own personal theory on the ban.
It goes to x-ray protection from Nukes for underground bunkers built too protect those who lead us like hogs to slaughter
Shouldn't the earth wire be longer than L and N so it will be the last wire to get disconnected I case the cable gets 'pulled' too much.
Nice lamp. I can just listen to you for hours. It's wery therapeutic.
I can relax with his voice
Those small project videos are my favourites! :)
And maybe someone pointed this out already or you have discovered it yourself: you can layout the 3x5 LEDs in a way that the positive and negative contacts end up at the same side. Instead of making three long rows going from side to side just make it one row running to the other side and fill the other two rows in a zig-zag-pattern.
Lead solder was banned for manufacturing because it's difficult/not cost effective to remove the lead when the PCBs become waste, not because of any user health concerns. In fact, soldering with lead free solder is worse for the operator than using 60/40 solder. The fumes from the resins in lead free solder are more acrid and the smoke particulates are finer, meaning they get absorbed into the bloodstream easier.
Oh, and about prototypes failing on powerup. I had one the other week. I heard the telltale "ptss" -sound and, as the smoke wafted up to me, I stood there thinking: "Hmm, yeah, putting a standard 47 Ohm resistor directly across an unregulated 24Vdc supply may not have been my brightest idea". :-P
And possible contributed to cancer - though the smoking of woodbines on the workbench in the 1950s contributed too
Thanks Clive. Nice build.
I've always enjoyed using this mnemonic I came up with whilst trying to remember resistor colour codes.
'B'ad 'B'oys 'R'ape 'O'ur 'Y'oung 'G'irls 'B'ut 'V'iolet 'G'ives 'W'illingly without a 'S'econd 'G'uess.
I recently had to enter rehab after playing the "I'm not sure" game. The bill is in the mail swimming in cheap Chinese LEDs, Clive.
Your videos relax me. Thanks for sharing.
"a smoky, flamey fuse, but a fuse nonetheless". I had a boss who was fond of saying "everything is a fuse". And for sufficient voltages and currents, he's right, which was his point.
So incredibly informative and also enjoyable to watch. Cheers to you Clive!
What a brilliant little kit for a newcomer into electronics.
👍👍👍👍
I think i will ask the local brothel if they want some of these.
Both as working lights and streetlights ;)
im sure you'll get something you desperately want in return
They have to be Red. Wait; maybe not. "Roxanne! You don't have to put out the Red Light!" (The Police).
Speaking of getting a slight shock, brings to mind an incident in Viet Nam, back in 1971. I was assigned to a communications Center running the landline teletype system for an Engeneer Group Headquarters. Because of the heat in Nam, and the nature of the equipment, an air conditioner was included in our fiberglass dome type structure, covered with sand bags and withing a chain-link/barbed wire fence with a 24 hour armed guard at the tunnel like door into the structure. Our immediate leader was a very small Staff Sergeant named Tinny. Now one day that air conditioner failed, and Tinny was called to repair it. Remember, in the US Army, the leadership thought that anyone in communications knew all about electricity and could repair any sort of equipment that plugged into the wall. So SSG Tinny went at it, trying to work on that air conditioner, which was located at the far end of the building, in a sort of tunnel that was about 4 feet high, Tinny being all of 5 feet tall himself. He really was a communicator, but not an electrician. Every time he tried to hook up the wiring to the new unit he had installed, he came in contact with the live line and jumped straight in the air, smacking his head in the tunnel. In the end, there were three of us laying on the cement floor, Tinny from the shock, and the two of us working that day in laughter. After SSG Tinny backed off, I went forward and wired the unit, well after cutting the mains first much to the anger of both SSG Tinny and our commo chief who thought our landlines had to be on line 24/7. We were down for about 3 minutes while I made the necessary connections and then back up and running. That said, every time I think back to that day I have to chuckle, SSG Tinny came through it pretty much allright save a few bumps on his head, and a slight burn on one finger.
Where does he get these led lights from? We have old skool incandescent flood lights with two 150w bulbs each that burn all night and I'd like to be able to substantially cut that usage down.
+Loren Husky Just search for LED floodlight online.
13:55
"... and a glass of a white wine-like substance for peasants".
Brilliant!
+khachaturian at least he's smart enough to mix it with chocolate! Never seen that brand here in the states. I like the Andes mints and the anything swiss chocolate. Russel Stover is the poor man's Godiva over here.
That clip is crazy! 100% seal? Wow.
brilliant big clive I really like the bare bones working of your circuits all on show it looks great
Just in case someone at Xuron is following Clive I'd like to mention that because of this video I just bought a (genuine) Xuron 170-II Flush Cutter and a 440 Precision Scissor. I haven't had a chance to use them much yet but they certainly have a nice look and feel to them.
Nice Work Clive. Cool Lamp. Keep up the great work. Nick.
Well done as usual, Clive! Thank you.
"Big fat industrialized fingers" omg nice ! Your channel is really a nice find. Also it makes me want to improve my interest in electronics.
Thanks, Clive for the memories loved it as always a good video
Only found your channel recently, and I love it!
Just bought some of those Xuron shears!! Nice recommendation.
I did too, as my knipex are wearing down after all the time
The Xuron snips aren't even that expensive, are they? I paid about £8 for a pair of Xuron 170-IIF (Micro-Shear® Flush Cutters with Lead Retainer) in the UK. They aren't the strongest snips in the world, so I have a pair of Engineer brand snips, model NS-06, that I use for most purposes, leaving the Xuron snips for cutting off component legs with that nice flat cut that they give. The lead retainer feature of the 170-IIF is super handy as well. It's not 100% reliable, but most of the time the snips actually hold on to the lead that you've just cut off, rather than letting it go flying across the room, which is super handy :)
The good thing about embarrassing yourself in public with highly painful or intense experiences is that the experience itself tends to overshadow the embarrassment. If you're lucky your mind is too scattered by the event to register people's reactions lol. Man, social dynamics are weird
Clive I have 2 cob lights that have black dot units if I short out the blown ones will it still work?
+Phil Thomas Yes, but it's sometimes a short term fix until another goes.
+bigclivedotcom thank you for your reply greatly appreciated.
nice cliveWork - I also like the green sticks helping to bite the copper from the PCB - never seen it before. How are they called (I'd like to get some)?
at 6:37 isnt the live trace not a bit too close to the screw in the bottom left? I'd put a little bit more distance between the screw and trace just to be sure.
+tHaH4x0r nvm just saw you made a v2 already which is a bit better
+tHaH4x0r The circle around the pad is also just a clearance zone.
+bigclivedotcom Yeah i noticed it on the actual pcb. Well i'd rather have too much creepage than too little haha
14:40 - If I attempted this, I would have approximately 12,000 broken carbide drills.
(±10k)
+Godfrey Poon Yeah, that's costly. At those RPMs even a simple brad snipped at an angle will "drill" a clean hole.
If you want it to last longer heat it to red hot and quench it some peanut oil or tranmission fluid. Saltwater brine works well for low carbon alloy steels also.
food in your videos makes them 10 times better haha, they're already brilliant
Very neat repurposing project, it'd be fun to see the superflux one too... :)
And a possible idea for other videos, Clive's storytime, just talking about things you've done that ended with hilarity, embarrassment or otherwise, that supermarket story was quite a good one... :D
On the 5x3 design 5 1/2 minutes in, couldn't you have gone up & down on the 1st 2 rows then along the bottom to avoid the neutral line along the bottom?
Clive, is it possible that a Littlefuse or small Buss fuse for a low wattage device that has been working perfectly up until the moment it went dead (a Heathkit indoor/outdoor thermometer with a neon Panaplex display from the early '70s) might have failed due to the old age of the fuse?
+BobEckert56 Yes. Fuses can fatigue over time and fail for no particular reason. Make sure you replace it with the exact correct type, and get a spare or two just in case.
bigclivedotcom I built it back in the 1970s and if I do say so myself did a super job. Great quality components. I still have the assembly manual of course, but I appreciate the reminder about using the exact same fuse type and rating, it can't be said too often. The fact that it has worked perfectly for that long (save for a replacement of the Panaplex display once) made me wonder about this. I'll check the fuse with a ohmmeter (also Heath of course), hope I find it open and when I replace it, hope the patient pops back to life. Thank you for your answer. Really like your channel a lot!
I have to say, etching the PCB in a bag like that is genius...... I remember the old days of using a make-shift tank that bubbled crap everywhere and always makes a mess..... I've been learning too much from your channel... This has to stop :P
Had you ever considered opening up an online shop where you resell low-volume quantities of items such as these? Because while you can't compete in mass with china, you can certainly compete with hand-finished quality. And nobody would complain about paying for quality, save for the ignorant among us.
At the very least you could buy a bunch of low-quality products, spiff them up and flip a bunch for a modest profit.
+Doug Reed I found the "Knob controller software upgrade chip"...
I laughed most immaturely.
+bluephreakr I agree. BigClive does a great job of making his builds serviceable in the future, which is so uncommon in today's use-and-throw-away electronics industry. I would buy his stuff simply because I know I would be able to keep it working for decades into the future.
+bluephreakr +1 for this!
I'd buy something by +bigclivedotcom over other products any day!
I find myself in shops and online asking myself "Would it be good enough for BigClive / Dave Jones / Mike / etc. to buy and use it?"...
+Doug Reed IT's probably the g o 0 g le version of an idiot light. They suspended my right to post for two weeks (which is probablynext for you!) because I wrote a friend 3 comments in a row .... now he has to specifically OK my comments, individually.
Hickock45 lost his channel for a few days and I suspect its a similar issue. They have way too many comments to do any kind of manual review. I did "challenge" it and lost -- surely computerized, too.
Now I think I see a bit of both sides -- so many people making second names (while I never have) versus people losing their rights over nothing.
couldnt find much about this when i g00gled it -- no surprise there!. its brother g00gle! ;D
Too bad I live in the states ... if Clive did something like that, I'd totally go to his place to help out :P
The problem is, it just takes too much time, and doesn't get you enough money ... unless you have things overpriced (well, excessively marked up).
bigclive, My first soldering iron was one that you had to heat on the gas cooker, lrg head 1/2" by 1/2" X 2" with 6" long bar and handle. very early 70's couldn't afford a expensive electric one.
I made some good things with that, mind you boards were bigger!
great build Clive, when using your new cutters does the slicing of them stop the wire from shooting out, i noticed you place your finger over the end, if i tried that with my standard side cutters the wire would embed its self into my finger.
While you are drilling holes, I will add this. For the 15 LEDs, run along one long row and zig-zag (can I say that?) back the other two rows.
Also, how bad would it be to put the paper printout ON the component side of the board and leave it there?
HI Clive, could you tell me what make your plug in Amp, Watt, Volt meter is? Also, any chance of you doing a review of different makes? I've been looking at a few (and other YT reviews) but respect your methods and opinions on such things. Thanks, Stuart.
Really love this video. Bigclive I would like to power a 40vdc wall pack led board and fixture. The driver is no longer working. I would like to use one of my ryobi 40v tool batteries to power it with an infrared remote control circuit. The battery is being charged thru mppt dc conversion. What kind of cc cv switching board would be used? Would make an interesting video.
Nice little project Clive- Anyone know the name of the housing for the board? I would like to build a few of these with brighter LEDS for DIY work lights Thanks
I recommend the standard 10/20W LED floodlights as work lights. Preferably the traditional ones with drivers so that you can service then when needed. The floodlight adapted in this video was an unusual style.
It would appear that the LEDs on this module might be individually replaceable by using a SMS rework station hot air wand. Even allowing for the destruction of the defective parts. What do you think?
+James M DeLuca The original LEDs were non standard multi-chip devices. Not easy to get. The PCB is also a fibreglass/aluminium laminate making it harder to solder devices due to its high thermal absorption.
Very cool clive. Thanks for the PCB file. I will give it a try.
Nice - although do be aware if you are going to use white helmet LEDs that used to be popular in early LED lamp designs - they will have a real world L50 of between 2000 and 5000 hours. L50 being the time before its down to 50% of its light output. They also commonly fail completely in this time spam. Always best to avoid the older leaded helmet white LEDs for any design thats going to have some long duty - not a problem for a PIR driven device. This only applies to the white LEDs that are UV excited phosphor - coloured LEDs have greater lifespans (depending on power output of course)
Antex soldering Irons. Wow that takes me back. The Red X25 or yellow X15. So much simpler that the new soldering stations.
You could have partially removed the first clip. I though you were going to do that. In fact, would it have worked if you just let some of the etchant in and resealed?
hi Clive I have just found a Clare a255 pat tester are they still used?
Heath presents: Exclusive line of BigClive boutique kits!
Hi I’m trying to build a 5w or 10w flashing led to see my radio controlled car at 1000ft+ have you made a video on anything like this in the past ?
The bad LED would have had to fail shorted in order for the rest of them to stay lit, what would be the best way to find a failed one if it had failed open? Is testing one at a time going to be the fastest, or is there a trick for figuring it out with less hassle?
+Das Grinch The open circuit voltage is so high that they usually fail short circuit. To find an open circuit one you'd either bridge them individually (or in large groups to narrow it down quickly) or for a safer test use a meter on diode test to make the LEDs glow individually.
Speaking of the silkscreen transparency, how do you know that "it takes shitloads of ink"? What indicator do you have, from a given print setting, that it hadn't had its "shitload" yet?
Also, the Seno GS components can be had easily off ebay. The clips are "Turbo Clips", the PE tube is either industrial stuff (try "layflat polythene tube"), vacuum sealer bags (if you don't mind the structured surface), or possibly freezer bags. By the way, the Turbo Clips don't just come in assortments of several sizes, there are also packs of ~10 of a single size.
+Anvilshock When using the highest ink setting it all instantly absorbs into the film with high definition. Lesser films end up with wet unabsorbed ink on the surface. It would be nice if I could actually increase the amount of ink to see just how much of a shitload it could take.
Got it, thanks!
You mentioned that getting the spacers in was difficult. Have you tried using a little bit of superglue? I believe it's non-conductive.
big clive im using express pcb how are you flipping the letter to show properly when you etch your pcb? right now if i flip my design all my letter are backwards. or are you designing your pcb upside down so the letters are right?
+Aikouka Ookami When I put text on the top silkscreen it's the right way up. When text is placed on the back copper side it is automatically flipped so it reads correctly from that side.
Clive - where did you get your photo sensitive board from? I like the white finish.
Did you use your USB vacuum cleaner?
Could one replace the ink mask w/ direct-print 3d filament mask (petg, pla... tpu?)
The process would be one-time use, but would be great for one-offs, prototyoing, etc.
would it be tricky to minimize the design down to run on a 9 volt battery kinda wanna make a spot light for lamping rabbits
I have a pair of Klein flush cutters that are virtually indistinguishable from the Xuron. I wonder if Xuron actually made them.
what is the size of the traces you used in this case and is the max current the traces can handle?
Have you done anything on the Chinese "Cree" LED Cycle torches?
You make that look so easy.
the lm 2576s adj p+ is a great soulution for parralel wired high power led like cree 3 w or rgbw 10w tota load or similar 3.3v 270 ma
incredible results iv had im blown away with the output and duration