I’m planning a layout and my main consideration is my grandchildren and along a positive impact on them. I need for them to see things easily and even take control (under supervision).
#1. Do you have time. Me? It always seems my biggest nemesis to building a sizable layout, time! For me 1) D&RGW, late 70's to early 80's, Grande Junction CO and westward. I'm bucking the trend of Rio Grande model RR at the Front Range. 2) Rail fan style layout with some switching. 3) Scope - Grande Junction and westward. Desert and canyon scenery. 4) Scale HO. 5) Standards: I've digested John Armstrongs book many times over. Minimum radius 32", siding 21 feet long. 11 track staging yard. etc.
I got started because I bought a n gauge western train. At first, I wanted it for under my Christmas tree, but that became too inconvenient when the cars derailed. The train got put away till the next Christmas season. I became interested in the beautiful village scenes. They were beautiful, but expensive . I thought about my train. I found western buildings on eBay. I bought some., but after I set them up, I felt my display didn't make me happy. I kept thinking about village scenes. I have little space where I live now. It is time to sell. One bonus is with the home I plan to buy, I can dedicate one bedroom to my train. I still don't want the large village structures so I’ve decided to do everything in n gauge. It will be a challenge, but I think when I get it built that I will have something unique I have found very little in the way of n gauge for Christmas so I plan to create it myself with 3 D pen and also in balsa wood and other materials I’m researching. I guess my theme title will have to be fanciful with a zoo, a circus, a carnival, a farm, a suburban town, an Eskimo village and of course on a shelve above my main display will be Santa’s North Pole home complete with reindeer and sleigh! As scenes come to mind, I will add them as space allows. Maybe an airport or who knows!
A lot of really good points being made in this video, and it is wise to consider these things before jumping too fast into making a layout. Otherwise you might spend a lot of hours and money making something that you aren't satisfied with.
my first consideration is storage. i live in an apartment and dont have an expansive space to dedicate to a permanent layout. im going to build modules inside a number of storage boxes. im going to cut holes where necessary and bridge the boxes with a section of track. all i have to do is pop some track apart, put the lids on, and stack the boxes to be put away.
What about your skill level with tools? I myself am very proficient at wood working, electronics, etc. However I wasn't when I started my first layout some 25 years ago. Because of that I built small layouts when I first started until I got more skills, got better tools, and was able to build better benches. I also kept wiring simple, relied on pre-made devices, and things like that. Now I'm wiring and running DCC, can program an Arduino, and make my own circuit boards. So for me - my goal was eventually a room sized layout but starting with a smaller layout really paid off. Of course time, $$$, and such will impact that decision.
As an experienced and successful model train builder, do you have any tips for someone quite possibly entering the field? I am a "tinkerer" so I have a lot of experience with soldering and doing highly detailed work. Any tips you could offer would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
After 25 years I'm back in the hobby. Using my old but still running beautifully Atlas/Kato yellow box locomotives I built a small layout based on the Penn Central in the 70's. Learned DCC and wired using NCE Power and Cabs. Converted said Atlas/Kato locomotives and just finished the benchwork this weekend! Starting to lay the trackwork using mostly Atlas code 83 flex and some juiced Shinohara turnouts which will need to be modified with isolated frogs and points. It is very interesting using older equipment with modern control (NCE/DCC) but I have to say I love it! My throttle pack days are over! Thanks for all the videos. I think your RR looks awesome!👍
Another thing to consider is what line you want to model, I myself will be in part modeling WSOR and though I would not have a great amount of space I have to do HO because they don't make any wsor in N
Sorry you feel that way… I'n in N scale building the WC in the fall of 1999... And rolling forward as if the CN take over never happened... walthers.com N scale WSOR Locomotives EIGHT items… listed N scale WSOR Rolling stock Zero items listed - But, since most WSOR rolling stock is “used” and shows its heritage, have fun doing patch jobs. However, over the past few years I have acquired 12 WSOR cars from: Atlas, Fox Valley Models, Micro-trains, and Athearn. You can build prototype WSOR trains with off the shelf equipment by decaling local customers cars. The real question is, how bad do you want to build the WSOR to scale in N scale? Never say never… More N scale stuff is coming every day… After all Scale Trains did build the UP Big Blow in N!!!
I am just getting into model railroading so as you may guess I have some questions about the hobby. There are so many different systems and I don’t know if they can work together. Starting with the controls. I see the type of controls I remember as a kid. They are very basic like the Tyco 499. I have one of those for my HO set. I have had this set for years can’t remember where I got it. I have seen these DC systems and I see there is something call DCC. I also have a very old Lionel set with the fast track tubular tracks. I think it was one of the cheapest starter sets from the 40s or 50s. I bought it because it is the New York Central set and my wife’s father and grandfather worked for that railroad. The train set I setup and test ran and it works and with be building it on a 4X8. But that with be later this summer. For right now I am working on the HO. I have a controller ordered (Tyco 499) and as of yet no tested it set. The set was set on and 4’X8’ by whoever owned it before so that is what I am working with. So I have been looking at buying the plug in lights system and have tried building a building from card stock. I think that is going to work well thanks to one of your videos. Anyway can you make a video that talks about the different types the trains system (DC DCC) and what will work with what? I see that some engines have sound do you have to have something else in order for them to work with the sound? I see these controls that are hand held and you can have one engine out of three or four running or can have a number of engines running at different speeds etc. Can I buy an engine for my old HO set (1960?) like a DCC engine and will it work on my set up? Thanks for making your videos they have helped me a lot.
Well, there is a lot in that set of questions. What you have, as you mentioned is DC. DC as you know can run 1 train with 1 power pack on 1 block of track. To run multiple trains at once with DC you need to break your track into insulated blocks, have switches to route power to the right block, and have multiple power packs. DCC (Digital Command Control) uses a different kind of controller to send not only power but commands through the rails to a decoder on board the locomotives and allows different trains to run at different speeds, different directions, etc. on the same track. You should be able to run older DC equipment on any DC system. For DCC, however, you would have to convert your locomotives to DCC by installing decoders in each one. The sound you are hearing is connected to DCC using sound equipped locomotive decoders with speakers attached. Some old DC systems had sound associated with them, but it worked completely differently. Hope this helps.
Greg: Short reply: If the Tyco 499 came with a train set, use it for accessories only. Get a Railpower 370 or better unit for Direct Current (DC) control of your layout. There are plenty of resources out there to help you wire your RR. DCC is Digital Command Control and is a little more complicated. This system is NOT compatible with a DC wired RR. DCC puts a square wave digital signal on top of an AC sine wave and sends these signals from a controller, stationary or hand held, to a command station using a throttle bus (wires). The controller sends a signal to the track using a constant voltage of 14 to 16 volts AC at all times. You need a Decoder (computer chip) - equipped loco to respond to the signals being sent. DC controls the track, DCC controls the locomotive. Do your research, there is plenty of info out there. Good Luck. And oh, get yourself to your local NMRA Division and ask questions. They will be happy to answer. You can still get DC locomotives at swap meets and train shows. Some DCC-equipped locomotives will run on DC powered layouts, but you won't have all the functions, lights and sounds. Hope this is helpful to you.
It came with the Tyco 499 controller. I tested it with my Fluke meter and it worked. The next day I connected it up to the tracks and the engine didn’t move. I checked the engine and found a broken wire. I fixed the wire and the engine still didn’t move. I rechecked the controller and it didn’t work anymore. So I bought another on EBay. If the engine still won’t work I will buy another engine. I just didn’t want to buy one that doesn’t work with the set I have. I will check out the controller you suggested. Thanks.
Given your experience, I'd junk the Tyco controller and get a basic MRC power pack. Secondly, if you're using brass track, i'd junk that too. Replace it with nickel silver components and you'll be much happier.
Hey Ron! Another great video! Like sharkz, I'm back in after a long break from the hobby. I'm sure I've learned these lessons the hard way, but it sure helps to be reminded! Thank you. Also I've found that working with tiny stuff is beneficial to dexterity, and patience.
Always get great advice from you Ron! Enjoy your videos much! I’m building an N Scale layout so I’ll definitely be looking for some great N scale material & trains from your site. :)
Back when I was a teenager my grandfather and I were going to build plan #63 from the 101 Track plans book, once he got his house remodeled. Fast forward 30 years and house was never finished and he had passed, I don't know why my interest has suddenly peaked again, maybe it was finding the book and looking at that plan again. I have been watching a lot of your videos to get re-familiar with model trains, and I have 1 question. Would like to go w the Peco 55 flex track and if possible the Atlas 55 turnouts, wye, and 3 way that it looks like that plan calls for. Is there anything I need to do put these 2 different brands together?
Great tips! Is there a standard spacing for parallel tracks? I'm building a shunting N scale Timesaver and Inglenook Wye with 10" curves. If I run a second track outside of the 10" can it be 11 1/2" or what is the closest distance for any and all types of cars and locos? I'm making all the tracks and jigs, so any radius is possible. I designed a 6" by accident - was supposed to be a 12"... Radius? Diameter?... it's like, your opinion man....
Hey Ron, I disagree with what you are saying.. I personally just want to lay track and run trains on the HO scale, I have a preference for steam locos. I do not intend to build scenery, no track ballast or even put in roads, towns or anything else similar... I am just wanting to get locos, and rolling stock of various types to run around a track and have ladders for yards to set up and store trains and engines. I have acquired some track and points (but not enough as yet), a turntable and a 6 space engine shed, all second hand and will probably go this way as it is much cheaper to do it this way as some of the prices I have seen for new engines and track is crazy (here in Melbourne Australia). The room that I intend to setup my layout is a 16ft long room with 2 doorways on one wall and is 9ft deep, so with that in mind, I am thinking of making an "m" shaped layout possibly with 1 or 2 helixes at the ends so as to get to a lower and or upper section for a fiddle yard........ I am presently going to use only DC as the loco's I have acquired are only DC, but I might go to DCC in the future and I will probably wire the layout for DC and DCC as I lay it. I am in the research and design stage at present and watching many videos like yours and others to get info to help me design and get more of an idea of what I want and how to do it... I do like your videos and have watched many of them so far and sub'd to your channel several months ago. I used to have a HO scale model train set when I was a child but got out of that when I joined the Royal Australian Navy, now that I have retired I am now in a position to go back to model trains and rekindle my passion for the hobby. Cheers Tim.
I know this video is at least a few years old, but I hope you see this Ron!!!! I've been thinking about getting into model trains for quite some time now, but it is so extensively involved the vast number of directions it can go in has become a bit overwhelming for me. What first peaked my interest in model building was the model in Beetlejuice! 😆😅 The point of trying to reach out to you is an attempt to find some direction from people that have (what presently seems like) infinitely more knowledge on the subject of building model trains. If you could please respond I would be very grateful!!! Thank you in advance, Randy.
Why set it in the real world rather than designing your own custom layout? I ask because if you want to run your model railroad as you see fit rather than have people who are way too uptight tell you how you should run it or display it which pushes people out of the hobby (weathering, design, etc should be up to the person the model railroad belongs to rather than the opinions of others after all). Joining a club generally means having the club make all the decisions about your layout rather than making it your own decisions about design, weathering, what locomotives you want to be able to use, what rolling stock you want to be able to use, etc and that pushes more people out of the hobby than the cost of starter sets they're aware of (read most expensive).
"rule of thirds" keep this in mind, I drop the ball on this too. But it will make the 2nd camera not look like we are looking into your ear. "rule of thirds grid interview"
Your cameras should be able to display a rule of third grid in them. All mine do that. When I set up my shots, I try to put myself in one of the sweet spots. I also look at the grid in my viewfinder and again TRY to keep within that spot. If we had a real camera crew and a co host at the same time. It would not make us look as awkward when talking to a camera. The classic talking to the back of the head shots you see in most TV shows and interviews today. I was thinking of just getting a Styrofoam head put a wig and a cap on it and call it Randy, That way I looks like I'm talking to someone :)
I’m planning a layout and my main consideration is my grandchildren and along a positive impact on them. I need for them to see things easily and even take control (under supervision).
#1. Do you have time. Me? It always seems my biggest nemesis to building a sizable layout, time! For me 1) D&RGW, late 70's to early 80's, Grande Junction CO and westward. I'm bucking the trend of Rio Grande model RR at the Front Range. 2) Rail fan style layout with some switching. 3) Scope - Grande Junction and westward. Desert and canyon scenery. 4) Scale HO. 5) Standards: I've digested John Armstrongs book many times over. Minimum radius 32", siding 21 feet long. 11 track staging yard. etc.
I got started because I bought a n gauge western train. At first, I wanted it for under my Christmas tree, but that became too inconvenient when the cars derailed. The train got put away till the next Christmas season. I became interested in the beautiful village scenes. They were beautiful, but expensive . I thought about my train. I found western buildings on eBay. I bought some., but after I set them up, I felt my display didn't make me happy. I kept thinking about village scenes. I have little space where I live now. It is time to sell. One bonus is with the home I plan to buy, I can dedicate one bedroom to my train. I still don't want the large village structures so I’ve decided to do everything in n gauge. It will be a challenge, but I think when I get it built that I will have something unique I have found very little in the way of n gauge for Christmas so I plan to create it myself with 3 D pen and also in balsa wood and other materials I’m researching. I guess my theme title will have to be fanciful with a zoo, a circus, a carnival, a farm, a suburban town, an Eskimo village and of course on a shelve above my main display will be Santa’s North Pole home complete with reindeer and sleigh! As scenes come to mind, I will add them as space allows. Maybe an airport or who knows!
A lot of really good points being made in this video, and it is wise to consider these things before jumping too fast into making a layout. Otherwise you might spend a lot of hours and money making something that you aren't satisfied with.
So true.
my first consideration is storage. i live in an apartment and dont have an expansive space to dedicate to a permanent layout. im going to build modules inside a number of storage boxes. im going to cut holes where necessary and bridge the boxes with a section of track. all i have to do is pop some track apart, put the lids on, and stack the boxes to be put away.
What about your skill level with tools? I myself am very proficient at wood working, electronics, etc. However I wasn't when I started my first layout some 25 years ago. Because of that I built small layouts when I first started until I got more skills, got better tools, and was able to build better benches. I also kept wiring simple, relied on pre-made devices, and things like that. Now I'm wiring and running DCC, can program an Arduino, and make my own circuit boards.
So for me - my goal was eventually a room sized layout but starting with a smaller layout really paid off. Of course time, $$$, and such will impact that decision.
As an experienced and successful model train builder, do you have any tips for someone quite possibly entering the field? I am a "tinkerer" so I have a lot of experience with soldering and doing highly detailed work. Any tips you could offer would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
After 25 years I'm back in the hobby. Using my old but still running beautifully Atlas/Kato yellow box locomotives I built a small layout based on the Penn Central in the 70's. Learned DCC and wired using NCE Power and Cabs. Converted said Atlas/Kato locomotives and just finished the benchwork this weekend! Starting to lay the trackwork using mostly Atlas code 83 flex and some juiced Shinohara turnouts which will need to be modified with isolated frogs and points. It is very interesting using older equipment with modern control (NCE/DCC) but I have to say I love it! My throttle pack days are over! Thanks for all the videos. I think your RR looks awesome!👍
Welcome back to the hobby. Sounds like you came back in force. 👍
what if your kind of doing everything. what I am doing is mixing diesel and steam. I'm not really choosing an era, I'm just doing it to have fun
When Doing N Scale Which I am doing Patience And time on it will Be the Essence.
Another thing to consider is what line you want to model, I myself will be in part modeling WSOR and though I would not have a great amount of space I have to do HO because they don't make any wsor in N
Sorry you feel that way… I'n in N scale building the WC in the fall of 1999... And rolling forward as if the CN take over never happened...
walthers.com
N scale
WSOR Locomotives
EIGHT items… listed
N scale
WSOR Rolling stock
Zero items listed - But, since most WSOR rolling stock is “used” and shows its heritage, have fun doing patch jobs.
However, over the past few years I have acquired 12 WSOR cars from: Atlas, Fox Valley Models, Micro-trains, and Athearn. You can build prototype WSOR trains with off the shelf equipment by decaling local customers cars.
The real question is, how bad do you want to build the WSOR to scale in N scale?
Never say never… More N scale stuff is coming every day…
After all Scale Trains did build the UP Big Blow in N!!!
Been there Done that.This is The Gospell of Model Railrading AMEN!
I am just getting into model railroading so as you may guess I have some questions about the hobby. There are so many different systems and I don’t know if they can work together. Starting with the controls. I see the type of controls I remember as a kid. They are very basic like the Tyco 499. I have one of those for my HO set. I have had this set for years can’t remember where I got it. I have seen these DC systems and I see there is something call DCC. I also have a very old Lionel set with the fast track tubular tracks. I think it was one of the cheapest starter sets from the 40s or 50s. I bought it because it is the New York Central set and my wife’s father and grandfather worked for that railroad. The train set I setup and test ran and it works and with be building it on a 4X8. But that with be later this summer. For right now I am working on the HO. I have a controller ordered (Tyco 499) and as of yet no tested it set. The set was set on and 4’X8’ by whoever owned it before so that is what I am working with. So I have been looking at buying the plug in lights system and have tried building a building from card stock. I think that is going to work well thanks to one of your videos. Anyway can you make a video that talks about the different types the trains system (DC DCC) and what will work with what? I see that some engines have sound do you have to have something else in order for them to work with the sound? I see these controls that are hand held and you can have one engine out of three or four running or can have a number of engines running at different speeds etc. Can I buy an engine for my old HO set (1960?) like a DCC engine and will it work on my set up? Thanks for making your videos they have helped me a lot.
Well, there is a lot in that set of questions. What you have, as you mentioned is DC. DC as you know can run 1 train with 1 power pack on 1 block of track. To run multiple trains at once with DC you need to break your track into insulated blocks, have switches to route power to the right block, and have multiple power packs. DCC (Digital Command Control) uses a different kind of controller to send not only power but commands through the rails to a decoder on board the locomotives and allows different trains to run at different speeds, different directions, etc. on the same track. You should be able to run older DC equipment on any DC system. For DCC, however, you would have to convert your locomotives to DCC by installing decoders in each one. The sound you are hearing is connected to DCC using sound equipped locomotive decoders with speakers attached. Some old DC systems had sound associated with them, but it worked completely differently. Hope this helps.
Greg: Short reply: If the Tyco 499 came with a train set, use it for accessories only. Get a Railpower 370 or better unit for Direct Current (DC) control of your layout. There are plenty of resources out there to help you wire your RR. DCC is Digital Command Control and is a little more complicated. This system is NOT compatible with a DC wired RR. DCC puts a square wave digital signal on top of an AC sine wave and sends these signals from a controller, stationary or hand held, to a command station using a throttle bus (wires). The controller sends a signal to the track using a constant voltage of 14 to 16 volts AC at all times. You need a Decoder (computer chip) - equipped loco to respond to the signals being sent. DC controls the track, DCC controls the locomotive. Do your research, there is plenty of info out there. Good Luck. And oh, get yourself to your local NMRA Division and ask questions. They will be happy to answer. You can still get DC locomotives at swap meets and train shows. Some DCC-equipped locomotives will run on DC powered layouts, but you won't have all the functions, lights and sounds. Hope this is helpful to you.
It came with the Tyco 499 controller. I tested it with my Fluke meter and it worked. The next day I connected it up to the tracks and the engine didn’t move. I checked the engine and found a broken wire. I fixed the wire and the engine still didn’t move. I rechecked the controller and it didn’t work anymore. So I bought another on EBay. If the engine still won’t work I will buy another engine. I just didn’t want to buy one that doesn’t work with the set I have. I will check out the controller you suggested. Thanks.
Given your experience, I'd junk the Tyco controller and get a basic MRC power pack. Secondly, if you're using brass track, i'd junk that too. Replace it with nickel silver components and you'll be much happier.
Hey Ron! Another great video! Like sharkz, I'm back in after a long break from the hobby. I'm sure I've learned these lessons the hard way, but it sure helps to be reminded! Thank you. Also I've found that working with tiny stuff is beneficial to dexterity, and patience.
Excellent advice. Thanks for posting.
I voted... oddly for someone who's currently in the middle of the pack, but I think they're hands down the best choice.
Thanks for your votes. (You get 3 BTW.)
Thanks for playing! Now is it Mr. Weirdo or just Weirdo? I do enjoy you channel
Great tips for new comers and as well as ppl in the hobby.
I'm having trouble picking n scale track I see you use peco can you explain why you chose that brand
Always get great advice from you Ron! Enjoy your videos much! I’m building an N Scale layout so I’ll definitely be looking for some great N scale material & trains from your site. :)
Thanks Ron for the ideas.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work..Lance
Back when I was a teenager my grandfather and I were going to build plan #63 from the 101 Track plans book, once he got his house remodeled. Fast forward 30 years and house was never finished and he had passed, I don't know why my interest has suddenly peaked again, maybe it was finding the book and looking at that plan again. I have been watching a lot of your videos to get re-familiar with model trains, and I have 1 question. Would like to go w the Peco 55 flex track and if possible the Atlas 55 turnouts, wye, and 3 way that it looks like that plan calls for. Is there anything I need to do put these 2 different brands together?
Great video, Ron! Now that's some really practical, well-thought-out advice for planning to build a model railroad.
-from Tom Pilling
Thanks, Tom.
Sir can you explain what lighting do you used for early video on two wall bench bracket? Its so beautiful
I'm not sure I understand exactly what you are asking. Which lighting do you want to know about?
Hi Ron you’ve probably said it somewhere what height do you run your layout at I’m going off the freemo standards which are 1200mm cheers Cody
I have 2 decks, one at 36 inches, the other 60 inches.
Great tips! Is there a standard spacing for parallel tracks? I'm building a shunting N scale Timesaver and Inglenook Wye with 10" curves.
If I run a second track outside of the 10" can it be 11 1/2" or what is the closest distance for any and all types of cars and locos?
I'm making all the tracks and jigs, so any radius is possible.
I designed a 6" by accident - was supposed to be a 12"... Radius? Diameter?... it's like, your opinion man....
Hey Ron, I disagree with what you are saying.. I personally just want to lay track and run trains on the HO scale, I have a preference for steam locos. I do not intend to build scenery, no track ballast or even put in roads, towns or anything else similar... I am just wanting to get locos, and rolling stock of various types to run around a track and have ladders for yards to set up and store trains and engines. I have acquired some track and points (but not enough as yet), a turntable and a 6 space engine shed, all second hand and will probably go this way as it is much cheaper to do it this way as some of the prices I have seen for new engines and track is crazy (here in Melbourne Australia).
The room that I intend to setup my layout is a 16ft long room with 2 doorways on one wall and is 9ft deep, so with that in mind, I am thinking of making an "m" shaped layout possibly with 1 or 2 helixes at the ends so as to get to a lower and or upper section for a fiddle yard........ I am presently going to use only DC as the loco's I have acquired are only DC, but I might go to DCC in the future and I will probably wire the layout for DC and DCC as I lay it.
I am in the research and design stage at present and watching many videos like yours and others to get info to help me design and get more of an idea of what I want and how to do it... I do like your videos and have watched many of them so far and sub'd to your channel several months ago. I used to have a HO scale model train set when I was a child but got out of that when I joined the Royal Australian Navy, now that I have retired I am now in a position to go back to model trains and rekindle my passion for the hobby. Cheers Tim.
Best N-Scale starter book to help a beginner?
Best book for any beginner, any scale, is Track Planning for Realistic Operations by John Armstrong. amzn.to/2VqV391
Great advice Ron, thanks
Found your channel from Michael Fifer. New subscriber. Thanks for posting such neat content.
Welcome aboard.
[thank, you for youre video]👍
Like. 👍. I would say paint your walls a sky blue with clouds / also built a Classic Lionel Toy Train Layout / be a kid again 🚂
Sometimes I think model railroading takes more planning than my wedding did!
That may be true. LOL.
Hi Ron. I injoy videos I've learned a lot. I have a question what do you use to unhook cars?
I use a bamboo shishkabob skewer.
I know this video is at least a few years old, but I hope you see this Ron!!!! I've been thinking about getting into model trains for quite some time now, but it is so extensively involved the vast number of directions it can go in has become a bit overwhelming for me. What first peaked my interest in model building was the model in Beetlejuice! 😆😅 The point of trying to reach out to you is an attempt to find some direction from people that have (what presently seems like) infinitely more knowledge on the subject of building model trains. If you could please respond I would be very grateful!!! Thank you in advance, Randy.
Nice video again.
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
✔✔✔✔✔ got it! Thank for your help, since this is the stage in at now.
You also need to determine how long you have before your health crashes and you almost can't do it at all any more.
That is pretty hard to predict, but that is a serious thing to have to deal with. Thanks for your comment.
That is pretty hard to predict, but that is a serious thing to have to deal with. Thanks for your comment.
#6 is how big is your wallet. this hobby takes money, money, money.
Yep. Cover that in the previous video. th-cam.com/video/sGug6AspxYk/w-d-xo.html 👍
Lets be real... ANY great hobby takes money... The trick is to plan ahead and look for deals.
Pre-ordering is the key 🔑 for me. And I stick to my contemporary era. This worked out in the long run.
yes it does.............if you count the hours of entertainment per dollar its about average
what is kit bashing?
Why set it in the real world rather than designing your own custom layout? I ask because if you want to run your model railroad as you see fit rather than have people who are way too uptight tell you how you should run it or display it which pushes people out of the hobby (weathering, design, etc should be up to the person the model railroad belongs to rather than the opinions of others after all). Joining a club generally means having the club make all the decisions about your layout rather than making it your own decisions about design, weathering, what locomotives you want to be able to use, what rolling stock you want to be able to use, etc and that pushes more people out of the hobby than the cost of starter sets they're aware of (read most expensive).
I am all for a person participating in the hobby in whatever way gives them enjoyment and relaxation.
"rule of thirds" keep this in mind, I drop the ball on this too. But it will make the 2nd camera not look like we are looking into your ear. "rule of thirds grid interview"
Yeah, this was my first attempt. Thanks.
Your cameras should be able to display a rule of third grid in them. All mine do that. When I set up my shots, I try to put myself in one of the sweet spots. I also look at the grid in my viewfinder and again TRY to keep within that spot. If we had a real camera crew and a co host at the same time. It would not make us look as awkward when talking to a camera. The classic talking to the back of the head shots you see in most TV shows and interviews today. I was thinking of just getting a Styrofoam head put a wig and a cap on it and call it Randy, That way I looks like I'm talking to someone :)
did you see a light at the end of the tunnel?
That is a hilariously awesome idea!!!
Ron's Trains N Things to
I don't approve of weathering or graffiti! I think it ruins the beauty of the railroad
I'm not your Laddie... just saying ;)
I'm an old Irish descendant, so I felt entitled. LOL.