Scott, I occasionally like to clean my guitars in the washing machine and then dry them off in the microwave -- before this I just used a jet washer and a wire brush.
Ah yes the old pressure washer method. I like to combine it with a little steel wool and nail polish remover for that extra deep clean. Best to use a commercial washer with at least 4000 psi, and make sure the nozzle is about half an inch from your finish. The closer, the better, especially on your $5000+ Gibsons. That nitro needs a thorough cleaning, my dudes.
I just discovered you a few months back. I'm a 15 year beginner. I've just now discovered my "chops".....and your videos have helped tremendously. You've convinced me against oiling the fingerboard. I believe you said a while ago that sweat and spit are the only things to ever put on your fingerboard. Thanks for all you do Mr. Grove' May you and yours have a healthy and prosperous holiday.
Hi Scott, I'm watching your stuff from Sydney Australia. I wanted to let you know that you have helped me immeasurably with guitar stuff . I would be taking my guitar to guitar shops and paying 80$ USA just to get my truss rod adjusted and oiling my fingerboard 4 times a year if I hadn't been watching you vids. You have obviously been through a lot in your life and lived through a lot of crap (but good stuff too). I'm totally with you in ignoring the haters. Screw them. Keep it up you are reaching guitarists all over who get some cool info from your experience. Cheers!Soul from Sydney
+Saul Gerber Many thanks my friend! I'm so glad that you are getting the information you need and aren't scared to do the adjustments yourself. As you can now see...music stores make a LOT of money for turning the truss rod or simply changing a set of strings. Then they oil (and over oil) your fingerboard to a point that your frets can fall out and guess what.....yep, you get to pay MORE to have new frets put in because the cause things to happen to guitars to get you back in. I'm glad that people are not getting cheated as much these days. This Internet thing is actually good for SOMETHING. I'm proud to have you checking out some of the things that I post, very appreciated!
Thank you Scott! I've been saying the same for years. Now I can just point them to your video for a professional fact. Your the best. Keep posting the videos please.
I learned more in a half hour than I have in years of reading about/discussing these subjects. Thanks! Unfortunately, I oiled my fretboard today. I wished I would have seen this sooner. Cheers
I live in a very dry climate (south Spain) and have guitars since 1998 or so. Never had a problem due to not oiling them, even without using an humidifier.
Well, I can say what I do but I can easily see some using the wrong type of oil or perhaps soaking it, leaving it on which I agree completely. OK Rosewood, I have an extra think Gibson fretboard, it is not sealed and fact of nature wood continues to dry and simply degrade into nothing in time. While I agree it is not "needed" as plenty of oil comes off your fingers, but, does tend to get dirty and my Rosewood will get lighter and dry looking which also does not lend itself to holding the frets perfectly over time/ What I do is maybe once a year, remove all the strings, take a cloth put a drop or two of my non food related conditioner and rub vigorously to remove the dirt and grime, a minute amount of the oil conditioner goes into the wood and it is slight but I think that sort of thing is never going to hurt anything and I prefer not letting my expensive guitars turn to crap. I use this petroleum based oil but only as a medium to wipe and clean a fretboard which yeah makes it nice but also extends its life. Wood needs to dry to be sure but there is such a thing as too dry as well. Rosewood is the only thing I have ever had to mess with as it does dry out unless you enjoy just having your finger grime serve as its oil source..
Great info man! I agree! it took me about 20 years but you're right. I have a strat with maple neck. I learned to use a dry toothbrush around the frets just to get some of the small dirt off the frets then wipe with a dry cloth. Great video man.
If I hadn’t taken your advice from previous videos I would have treated the fingerboard during every string change. I hope you had a very Merry Christmas Scott.
If it’s what you say, I believe it. You’ve been around guitars for years and I appreciate you sharing. I always check with a couple guys videos before I do anything to a guitar.✌🏻
Awesome Scott! So glad I found this video. Was just about to linseed oil my rosewood fretboard because I was 'told' that's what you need to do! Thanks for being the voice of reason....
I've been using bowling lane oil on my ebony fingerboard for about 13 years now and it hasn't hurt it at all. it actually plays faster. use it on the back of the neck and body as well. so far so good. lol
Your previous vid about oiling frets was enough to never let any kind of oil touch any of my fretboards ever. Per your advice, I only clean my frets with water and nothing else. Still very satisfied with your advice. Rock on, man.
GREAT INFO! Wood, like sponges, swells and shrinks based on moisture volume. Different woods have different densities, will shrink/swell at different rates/amounts. Oiling (ESPECIALLY only treating selected areas of the instrument) is messing with nature/natural balance. All my instruments are naturally maintained by keeping them properly humidified (as you pointed out), nothing more, and they have served me well for decades.
Right; linseed oil will leave almost a varnish type finish if you put it on thick enough and/or often enough. It`s great for axe handles though, seals them right up and keeps the handle from shrinking and loosening up in the head....if anybody cares.
I once oiled the back of my guitars neck with a little drizzle of olive oil. It got a satin finish feel to it, even though its lacquered. I think I broke the finish, but it got better😂
That Music Nomad F-ONE OIL is fantastic for oiling my wood lemon juicer and the wooden spoons I use for making Tomato sauce. I'm not joking. Some of my Olivewood spoons were 80 bucks and this stuff is great. As for the rosewood fretboards. If you leave it on too long it will soften the wood so you can gouge it with your fingernail. Scott is right, leave the fretboard alone!
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Interesting information here. I wish I've known that back in the 70s. Though, I used Stewart-Mac fingerboard cleaner (has petroleum distillates) you leave it overnight. Before that I use Naphtha (hard to get in Calif. these days) on fingerboard, then 0000 steel wool wipe off use the Stew-Mac stuff.....no problem. Year later Music Nomad F-One oil. Looking back... all that stuff really unnecessary. The Gibson Acoustic '76 and the '98 Carvin Bolt fingerboards are fine...no problems. As someone told me," man, you like spending money on this junk". Reminds me of P.T. Barnum saying, "There's a sucker born.........well, you know the saying. As Dan Erlewine in his book of guitar repairs says sometimes SPIT can do a real good job of cleaning the guitar, but he only does that in his own guitars sometimes. Good advice....keep it simple and saves $$$$ in the long run. Thanks Scott for the videos.
Guilty as charged! Have to admit I had a guitar in its case for what seemed to be over a decade and the fretboard looked a-ok when I started playing it again. This past summer I bought a schecter guitar and when I got it I thought the fretboard looked mighty dry, or at least I was not a fan of the light colored wood, so I oiled it and did so every string change (3-4 months). Thank you for your videos, I'll have to give the humidifier a try instead of rubbing oil!
Thanks for the intelligent info on oils !!! What you are saying Makes perfect sense and thanks for the no nonsense...No bullshit Videos!!! Rock on Brother Groovy !!!
Scott’s right you don’t need anything extra oil , my main guitar has an unfinished neck and fretboard the natural oils from my hands makes it fast and smooth
i took your advice, I was going to buy an oil a couple months ago, then seen this, I just wet at towel with some water and it works great.... sometimes your fingers will stick in the neck or on the strings after it gets dirty, just wipe it down with a wet paper towel and it becomes fast again
I'm with you Scott .Have a D25 Guild I got second hand over 40 years ago never done anything to it other than replace the strings as with all my guitars, with the same gauge that came off, love the tone of the guild better than guitars that cost a lot more ,Have a good Christmas great channel
Mostly agree with you. I am a busy touring bassist with generally sweaty/greasy hands. Many climates, humidities, dusty environments. Sometimes my fretboards gunk up so bad. I'm not one to keep my instruments squeaky clean but the gunk gets all over the strings and generally kinda gross and I WANT to remove it. I don't have to but I want to. I clean it off with lemon juice and a plastic scrubber pad. Comes off instantly. I use a very small amount of Johnson Paste Wax to put a little moisture back on to the fretboard because a dry fretboard feels rough and it bugs me. Usually the paste wax lasts a couple of days and starts drying out but by then I've probably sweat all over it and the process begins again. Usually takes about a year or two to get to that point.
Good video. Haven't watched you channel in a few months. Looks like your doing pretty well health wise now compared to when I watched you last. I got myself a Rainsong guitar a few months back and it's such a great guitar. I feel it must be a good choice if it's in your arsenal collection.. Take care and keep on rockin' buddy.
+Robert Liles Welcome back! Yeah....someone asked me what guitars I would keep if I could only pick a couple out of my collection and had to sell the rest. The Rainsong was the only acoustic that was on that list I made. I love it that much. Thanks again for checking back in and have a super GROOVY New Year!
First I would like to say you gave me a really good belly laugh when you said people can keep their opinions to themselves on my TH-cam site. I’ll probably delete 200 or more comments. Ha Ha. Thanks so much Mr. Grove for this video about oiling the guitar fretboard. My mind was suggesting I oil my acoustic guitar fretboards, and I had everything ready, but first I was researching TH-cam videos on the matter… then I discovered your TH-cam video on Oil Your Guitar’s Fretboard. I know very little about guitar care, but I’ve watched videos on Guitar Luthiers constructing acoustics. Your explanation as to why you for sure you should not oil your fretboard... I really get it. I've never oiled my acoustic guitar fretboards, and now after listening to your video I will only clean my guitar with a damp cloth, and not use any liquid on it whatsoever. One statement you said I really like, the tree is dead, the wood has been just about completely dried out.
Many thanks, I'm glad that SOMEONE gets my humor. lol I'm glad you found the video and that it put some sensible thoughts in your head. I love it when someone can make that decision over the other methods that sheeple all follow. lol Play well and stay GROOVY!
i just switched to the poly web strings you like and wow they really dont go dead lol. im still trying to relearn after loosing my middle fretting finger but were getting there.
If my Rosewood fingerboard is dry, I wipe a thin layer of forehead oil on it. It's natural, not plant or animal derived and provides just the right amount of slickness for those fingers to work like they should.
+Martin PDX We are still considered to be animals (mammals). For the people who don't know this guy, he's HONESTLY more correct in doing exactly THAT than the retailers and manufacturers are being. YOUR NATURAL OILS ARE ALL YOU NEED.....NOTHING ELSE. I you actually PLAY your instrument, it doesn't NEED anything else added to it. Playing it is simply enough to keep everything "Conditioned" and keeps your wood "Healthy". So, being as serious as a heart attack...between Martin's post and my response, you could copy/paste the 2 out to real wood workers and makers of SUPERB INSTRUMENTS who do not do ANYTHING other than build the instruments (meaning they have no financial interests nor endorsements nor kickbacks of any kind to companies who make and sell instrument polishes or conditioners and oils).....you will 100% get the affirmed nod from each of them that playing your instrument is all it needs. Nothing more needs to be said to all of you all and nothing else needs to be said to me on this subject. This sums it up and is simply THE TRUTH.....not just my opinion. Cheers.
+Groovy Music Lessons I was half way kidding with my post. But I did get a strat recently with a rosewood fingerboard. It's brand new out of the box. But, the wood was so dry that bending was a bitch. So I just wiped a bit of forehead oil over the wood (super thin, cant see it) and it helped. Mind you it wasn't slick, but it helped. Of course over time the wood will wear in and all will be groovy. So yeah, playing it will get those finger oils one needs, but for a new neck, it wasn't helping me out so I resorted to this.
+Martin PDX I hear you. New....you never know what you're gonna get. I just try to hang them up for about a week and let the humidity level do its thing and then all is good. So, if you have to give your axe foreHEAD....rock on! lol I had to do it. lol
Great vid. Furniture polish? Linseed? Lemon oil? Mineral oil? Gibson guitar polish? Fast Fret? Most people need realize they're spreading a petroleum byproduct on their instruments. Linseed is industrialized flax oil. So, what you're saying Scott, most things people apply to their guitars will actually damage the guitar in the long run. Do not wet a soft cloth with tap water, wring it out, and clean your guitar. Use purified or distilled H2O. This is what is coming from Scott's humidifier. This is why Oasis humidifiers demand distilled water in their product, in which people of most do not follow directions and use tap water. Do not use tap water.
+TangeOrheen My tap water is made pure for my guitars through the special filtering and double softeners. I use up between 8 and 14 gallons per day in that single room with the doors always closed. I did use distilled for a while week last month when 2 of my water softeners were down (They are then purified 3 more times before they reach the tap). The water here in the desert is hard enough that you will NEVER, EVER see out your car windows again if you park too close to the edge of your driveway when the lawn sprinklers pop up. Most of the cars here have little to no finish on them. It's quite amazing. No need to wring out the rag at all. There's not enough on there to squeeze one single drop out of the rag BEFORE I touch it to the fingerboard. It's quite funny to read all of the "Professional" suggestions for this. Premier Guitar wants people to DOUCHE their guitars......yep....vinegar and water. lol Gibson wants distilled water mixed with all 48 of their branded products on there. Most companies will ask that you used distilled water for those little guitar case humidifiers. So, it made a lot more sense for me, in this location of the nation, to have all that installed instead of hauling semi truck loads of distilled to be delivered monthly.
Groovy Music Lessons We may have a new vision here : ) point: how can ya hear "tonewood" if your guitar is smudged? I just watched a vid with an asian guy dumpin' a bunch of f-oil or some shit on his fretboard and scrapin' it off with steel wool. WTF? I use a Q-tip, and I have VERY clean guitars. As you do. So my question, of course, is does a dirty guitar affect tone? I would say yes. LOL! Yeah, we got one here. I'll never buy a black guitar again. Fingaz~
yep the good at opening up those. boiled linsead oil has a drier in it that's what I'd use they put it on expensive gun stocks.but I'd wipe it all off after it was on for a sec or two that's it!
I do restain my rosewood fingerboards with jell stain every couple of years to darken them back up. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and happy holiday season Scott. Take care of yourself Bro!
Hi Scott, Took my telecaster to get humbuckers replaced at SAM ASH, for active pick ups told the guy not to add oils to my fingerboard at all because I clean it with water and a rag which is great, therefore he tells me water is BAD because it’ll swell the wood😃 thought he could change my mind lol
Hey Scott, I've used a product called "Scott's (coincidence?) Liquid Gold" on my ebony fret board for many years, mostly to clean it. Don't do it often and not sure what's in it but I never had any issues with that product. Wondering if you or your viewers can shed some light on it. Thanks friend!
To use humidifiers you need to have a separate guitar room....I have cheep but lovely Peavy JF 1 I boght it b stock. It looked like it hunger it the Shop for a few years. I used some leanseed oil on the fingerboard after cleaning and it looks just great the second months already. I put some ballestoll, gun oil, on the deck. The same way i treat my shoutgun stock. It looks also great. Will see although.
Mr. Doctor Groovy Man, thanks for the video , it keeps all of us that are concerned informed of the good and the bad ways to do things. The Right and the Wrong, The Good, The Bad , The ugly.. I Personally like the Gibson Tone Polish video, LOL, If you are a Git -Fiddle Player it gave you a Great Workout. LOL, to be serious, thank you for all of your Knowledge of Guitars, and everything that you know how to play, those of us who give a Damn, like what you have taught us, Thank You, Happy Holidays my Friend, Cousin Figel
Lots of truth in your videos, which I appreciate. I like a way an oiled fretboard looks, but it doesn't make any difference other than cosmetic. And good googly moogly you've got to use as little oil as possible because otherwise all your dead skin cells and all the dust in your life will attach itself to your guitar. Keep making these awesome videos!
I was told, years ago by a luthier at Atlantic Violin Supplies, that light olive oil is the best thing for ebony finger boards. Put on and wiped completely off immediately. I believe light olive oil is a partially drying oil. Some oils like lemon oil or Tung oil are drying oils and dry to form a varnish. Other oils like many vegetable oils or petroleum oils don't dry and tend to remain wet. Light olive oil lies somewhere in the middle. According to the luthier I spoke with light olive oil has been used on ebony fingerboards some of which are a century old and still are fine. Avoid getting it on the body of an acoustic instrument. Anyhow, I am certainly no expert, and am only relaying what was told to me regarding ebony boards.
Yeah, that's where rumors get started and continue. One guy just repeats that stuff. Of course Olive oil would be harmful since it is a food oil and would get in there and simply spoil and rot. The wood would rot and you would eventually have white mold on your fingerboard. It's cool of you to realize that it COULD be an old wives tail etc. and in this case, it was. It's refreshing to have a guy with an open mind posting on here. Thank you.
I certainly didn't mean to contradict your words of wisdom and cause someone to wreck their guitar. I have (and have read) an instrument finishing book by Dan Erlewine which he describes the various oils used in wood finishing, along with just about any of the major types of paints, varnishes and lacquers used in instrument finishing. It is an interesting read to anyone interested in finishing or refinishing musical instruments.
***** Hmm. I have heard that linseed is not that good in that it is a drying oil which leaves a varnish behind after it has dried. I think lemon oil is the same. I think olive oil is a semi drying oil which does not polymerize when it contact oxygen.
You shouldn't use any oils. They will rot your fingerboard. If you spoke to a REAL luthier who makes violins, he would know better and cringe at the thought of you putting food oils on your wood, which will spoil (because they are food) and it will mold and ruing anything you put that junk on. Stop talking to people, they really have less than zero idea what they are talking about. Linseed oil is a varnish, not a wood conditioner. There is no wood conditioner. You simply want to moisten the wood a bit. Any REAL luthier will tell you to simply buff it really hard, use a slight bit of water or spit. This is the 100% truth. Any sort of alcohol will ruin fine instruments like violins, violas, cellos etc. Classical musicians laugh at guitarists on this matter. They always say that we go retarded as soon as frets are installed on our instruments. They are correct. I could go on all day...you axe, if you want to ruin it...go right ahead. Do yourself a favor, just Google, violin/fingerboard/water/spit and learn something. You will have 12 year olds spouting off about alcohol etc. and the masters will quickly jerk a knot in their tail. Some things are cut and dry right and wrong. Having sex with your sister is just as wrong as putting ANYTHING other than water and spit on a classical instrument fingerboard. How many times have you oiled a tree to watch it grow? Think it through.
Groovy Music Lessons Sounds good. As I said before, I spoke years ago with the guys at Atlantic Violin Supplies who did recommend light olive oil on ebony fingerboards for violins. atlanticviolinsupplies.com/HelpfulHints.asp And I was impressed when speaking with them about varnishes, glues, repairs, luthier tools and other subjects. I think the term "going rancid" is not specific enough. When some oils oxidize they will certainly taste a little foul. But the oxidation process which creates a polymer is exactly what you want if for example if you are seasoning a cast iron pan. Other food products like milk "go rancid" through bacterial processes. I don't think that is necessarily true of what happens to a clear oil when they oxidize. The violin is also a little different in that you are always trying to fight off rosin buildup on the fingerboard. (And everywhere else) So it is a much bigger battle than what a guitarist has to deal with. Interesting that you bring up spittle. Those same guys said always use the least offensive solvent when cleaning an instrument. A little water and a soft clothe to start out with. If that doesn't work use spit as a solvent and a soft clothe. If that doesn't work, try to live with the stained instrument as it is. Thanks for all your reviews.
Love your videos. Not opening a can of worms but make an interesting comparison. Ebony and rosewood fret board wood in its natural state does NOT need conditioner ...Because it is protected by the trees outer layer of bark skin etc. But remember when it is taken from that state, and cut into a slab..it is then exposed to temp changes, dry air...moisture changes..etc. You could keep all of your guitars in the humidifier room for its life. ( Collectors more so than players ) I keep a humidifier in my acoustic guitar room because acoustics wood is always exposed. You asked the question in your title... Do you oil the body? Answer.. yes. ( eye creams.... facial moisturizer.... elbow cream etc) Now.. I heard you mention clear coat. So I present your own theory? Why would you clear coat a fingerboard? Do you clear coat the body? Point being... your clear coat board confirms that open grain wood needs protection. That's one of the reasons most guitars are finished or painted ( not just to be pretty ). Lemon oil Canola oil...vegetable oil is a SIN ! Like you said.. they are food products. Lemon oil actually dries the wood because of the acidic properties. Maple boards don't need conditioner because it is a tight closed grain wood and is usually clear coated ( again... proves that the wood needs protecting ) You do know guitars brother...but Im offering up this builders wood knowledge for your consideration. Wood like geology.. is a science...more than just the given names that people memorize. There is much more to wood biology than just memorizing names of woods. Taking finish off... wont change the tone..... but watch the wood after 10 years. Now you will probably delete this or block because its not a worshipful message of confirmation. But at least you read it and... will often recall it. Much like the guy that walks into a room and shouts BLUE BLUE BLUE at the top of his lungs ! People will think hes a nut job.. and dismiss him. But they will always..at some point...remember him shouting those words. Tung oil or tru oil does the trick..a little once a year.
The picture shows the oil can guitars. I bought a Bohemian guitar (the Moonshine) and couldn't keep it in tune. I finally noticed that the tailpiece is pulling out of the wood. Cheap ass guitar made in china. Bitching done. Have a great Christmas and much success and health in the upcoming year.
this is the first topic where im not on the same page... the first thing that comes in mind is my wooden house facade.. if you do nothing it gets silver in about a year, if you oil it it gets darker and silver in 5.. so for me its about water protection (also sunlight protection is a thing so store it right) the problem is overuse of oil i agree... swollen frets, moving neck, backbow (for some guitars just dead) wrong oil can corrode the board, some oils can bleach the fret board .. that's the reason why im not so sure about lemon oil (lemon juice is bleaching a lot of materials).. but smells nice.. for me a not aggressive way would be some kind of mineral oil (a not aggressive one, not evaporating, maybe food save, no color, no smell).. oil on the body.. for me.. only the parts i touch and that are wood.. so yes you could oil our body....guitar body but im not using oil directly i use a microfiber towel (there are good ones and there are bad ones).. feels a bit like leather.. and i don't apply the oil on the towel or the guitar.. i oil a piece of wood with the towel till i get no gloss finish.. some would call it "dry" and apply mor oil.. for me thats what i want and i use that to polish the gunk of my guitar away.. all you notice is a slight color change when you stoke 5 times the same fret.. why this way? because that way there is not enough oil to soak the neck.. if you soak it the first time 2 mm into the wood.,. the next time it's 3 mm into the wood.. 10 years later the whole neck is filled with oil, 1kg heavier.. a vibrating spring drowned in oil.. at least that is my imagination and for me the question "should you or should you not oil" is answered in how much do you play the thing.. and how sweaty are you ... water is the enemy i play in a little room with two tube amps my gaming pc.. 3 screens.. in in the roof floor.. the 70's AC30 always tries to kill me because of overheat so i swat (42°C, 107°F room temp measured last year).... and i play each day... sometimes 6h on the same guitar.. so when i feel that my fingers are wet i know it would damage more than a bit of oil... if my body is startig to get his own atmosphere i know the humidity in the room is climbing.. .. i play on 2 of my 5 instruments since 16 years the 1980's gibson from my father still look's and play's great so i think i did nothing wrong.. .. well soon she needs a sister because of the fret hight..thinking about a "PRS S2 Custom 22 Semi-Hollow" or "Düsenberg Starplayer TV Plus" the one with Piezo pickup in the Bridge.. so if its a good build guitar.. and you watch about sun and humidity.. you can play that thing the next 50 years.. probably on a daily basis without anything.. can you kill your guitar with oil.. sure.. can you kill your guitar with water.. sure.. .. so if you would kill your guitar with water regardless.. maybe a drop of oil can leed to a longer life?
I can PROVE this really fast. The humidity in my house averages 10%. I go through about 10 gallons of water per day in the humidifiers in my music room only. Without all that WATER to keep the humidity at 50% I wouldn't have any guitars. SOOOOO, it's WATER that saves every single instrument I own daily. It takes care of the instruments from head to toe. A drop or a gallon of any oil CAN'T do that. There it is. I must literally soak my guitars in what amounts to a green house in order to keep them from drying out and blowing away.
^^ well.. also when you store wood for a longer time you soak it in water... but that is not what i meant average humidity in gemany is with 68% .. but also 10%-95% depending on the season and you are right to average this with a humidifier because every change equals stress and the chance to move on you (will wood easier moves with high humiditi and temperature but also cracks easyer with both low) but what would you say to the idea that i give you a wet towel..water.. and you clean your fingerboard.. once a day for about an hour or 2.. and i mean soaking wet... or stand out in the rain... i guess you would agree direct water is the enemy... and if you would play your guitar sweating like Angus Young.. it is exatly that.. rubbing a wet towel for about 2h a day on it.. not wat you want to clarify why i think water is the enemy.. your reason is right.. because of the hard change in humidity and stress it gets with every change.. 0-30 gram / m³ water equals 0-100% humidity so actual water content of the air is less than 1%.. you worry between 0,0-0,5% (0,3% on 100% humidity if i'm guessing right) difference in actual water content of the air.. i'm worried about 100% pure water that also means when you get a swaty hand on your fingerboard the humidity around the water will climb to 100% while it vaporizes before it is mixed with the surrounding air.. in the wood is no surrounding air (minimal but no movement) yes in a normal case all of the water vaporizes fast enough to have nearly no impact on the humidity of the wood (thats the reason why i said the most people will play a guitar 50 years with no problem) but in some cases you play in 95% humidity, sweat like a beast in 35°C .. enough that you hand on the mirror will leave a huge print of condensate .. so when you got 30 guitars in a humidity room.. you probably will not oil them.. but when you gig with it.. in a club where the sweat drop's from the sealing.. play while it rains.. the bit of oil will extend the time the wood humidity changes (you neck and the wood is a room with 50% humidity.. close the door to the surrounding rooms and that will never change) by the way that would mean you humidify 240m³ air a day .. you should really think about closing a door :P
Hey Scott, Thanks!! The humidifier is a great idea. I am buying one. What is a good humidity you use for your room? I am also going to buy a Digital Humidity and Temperature Monitor. They are about $10. Thanks!!
Yeah, the unit that hangs there on your wall is a Hygrometer....your price is right, sometimes even less. Perfect conditions are around 70 degrees and about 50% humidity will do just fine.
I'm so glad I saw your page. I believe in the guy saying don't buy shit and you stand by it and thats cool. Question.My fender strat has that black thick gunk around the frets left there by the previous owner. It's does have a gloss layer on the neck but I'm hesitant to throw chemicals on it. I don't know anything about wood care but I saw all the products and saw it's all marketing bs. Plus Ever notice furniture surfaces and how they get nasty if you stop using those special cleaners? I agree i lightly wet thing is best best. So back to the question. Should I scrape very gently to all the frets and go paleontologist stupid on it or ummm .... any ideas? Any suggestion would be very appreciated.
I have a blond maple top to my solid body. Very well made custom guitar, but it didn't get enough coats of finish on it. Now I have this rough gray areas due to my right hand rubbing it. Funny how natural wood furniture never goes gray..so I'm not sure how to get the finish and color back. Super fine sand paper and alcohol?
Hey thanks Dr groovy for all that I was just about to clean my guitar and rub a bit oil on the fret I think I will use a little water 💦 So is it good or ok to have steamer in your room every now and then
What about feed and wax? I saw that tip from someone. I've used it to clean the unsealed fretboard (rosewood). Wipe on and wipe off. Just would like your opinion. Thanks.
Hi Scott, I hope you can advise me what to do here.I have a 76 Fender Jazz bass that was stripped down to the Alder/Maple ''real wood''Whomever did this clear coated after the fact but here's the problem.I've had the bass since 1992 and gig'd a plenty with her, over the years sweat and dirt have worn the lacquer off and invaded the wood in the body where my arm rests above the bridge, also where I rest my thumb over the neck pickup, How do I clean this beautiful old girl of a bass properly.Thank You and keep up the good work You Rock
Question for you Scott, Thanks for the info about the oils. I havent really played in years and have an Ibanez RG 350EX. I've never replaced the strings on its been in a bag. So if I shouldnt use a food based oil what can you recomend. And do most polish clothes have lemon based in them if so whats my best alternative?
Informative and I dig your opinion backed by your experience. You have definitely given me something to think about. What's opinion on using 4 OT steel wool for cleaning and polishing fret-boards and frets?
So I sometimes use a ultra fine oil on my strings. I try and keep the strings new longer as I play one guitar for a week and then another and so on. My reasoning is that it will keep my salty sweat from rusting the strings before I get back to it. It does seem to work. What poetical harm am I causing Groovy? It seems to me that you would have te same problem with a wall of guitars. What do you do?
Hello and happy new year Scott! +Groovy Music Lessons I am really wondering about getting aGuitar's fretboard back in shape when purchased from a pawnshop or 2nd hand when they are dirty and grimy... sometimes they are beautiful but you really want to get that.. dna ... of the guitar. I always try cleaning the body with damp cloth or very light cleaner and compressed air... but the fretboard... what do you think? Oh yea i usually leave them in my jam room for a few days next to the humidifier before i start checking them out. thanks
lol, next thing you know stp,pensoil,castrol,ect will be a guarantee five Minute oil change at guitar center or next one free lol lol, MERRY CHRISTMAS DR. GROOVY AKA SCOTT GROVE, have a wonderful holiday you & family!!
Doctor Groovy, A friend of mine is a wood carver, i have many of his carvings in my living room.. He told me that the wood called Purple Heart is the hardest wood that he has ever worked with, Very Very Tight Grain, But the wood is heavy, he said that if someone made guitar neck & fretboard out of it , that you probably would Never have any problems with the neck. Have you ever heard of any Guitar wood made of Purple Heart?, Cheers bro, Cousin Figel
+Cousin Figel Yeah, a lot of the really high end guitars of yesteryear used Purple Heart. Basses mainly from Alembic, Moonstone etc. It looks great once it's worked with though. Pretty stuff.
I have only used Howard's Feed-N-Wax once I don't know if it has lemon oil in it though. I'm not sure what to think of it right now That was the first time I have ever used anything like that. I honestly can say I haven't had a guitar yet that has really needed fingerboard conditioner on my guitars. They all look fine really apart from the fingerboards needing cleaned.. So many people keep telling me it is necessary to use this stuff. It was Wills easy guitars who recommended the Howard's Feed-N-Wax He did say to use it very sparingly. What do you think of that stuff is it bad too ? I always just used a cloth and some slightly warm water again just a little.Its your advice I follow because I trust you. Anyways at the moment I'm actually using your method to polish up my frets. Once again Scott thank you. It really helped.
In a previous video I saw Nigel inseminating one of your guitars. How did that turn out?☺ LOL Thanks again for all your good advice! I noticed that this vid was very comprehensive, clear and to the point. Great job! I like how you referenced a professional guitar shop. I have been 'there' and I can coroborate what you said about them. Although i don't remember seeing a humidifier in their new store, but perhaps the humidity is added through the ductwork??
Scott, I occasionally like to clean my guitars in the washing machine and then dry them off in the microwave -- before this I just used a jet washer and a wire brush.
+Mick Kennedy So few people know of that method. "Ancient Chinese Secret"!
I dump bleach on mine and leave it on for a day then throw it in the wash.
Ah yes the old pressure washer method. I like to combine it with a little steel wool and nail polish remover for that extra deep clean. Best to use a commercial washer with at least 4000 psi, and make sure the nozzle is about half an inch from your finish. The closer, the better, especially on your $5000+ Gibsons. That nitro needs a thorough cleaning, my dudes.
Well hell.......When I think of all the money I wasted with the car wash.............................
I just discovered you a few months back. I'm a 15 year beginner. I've just now discovered my "chops".....and your videos have helped tremendously. You've convinced me against oiling the fingerboard. I believe you said a while ago that sweat and spit are the only things to ever put on your fingerboard. Thanks for all you do Mr. Grove' May you and yours have a healthy and prosperous holiday.
Great video! I love Phenolic resin fret boards (ebonal) Hagstrom has been using them also.
Hi Scott, I'm watching your stuff from Sydney Australia. I wanted to let you know that you have helped me immeasurably with guitar stuff . I would be taking my guitar to guitar shops and paying 80$ USA just to get my truss rod adjusted and oiling my fingerboard 4 times a year if I hadn't been watching you vids. You have obviously been through a lot in your life and lived through a lot of crap (but good stuff too). I'm totally with you in ignoring the haters. Screw them. Keep it up you are reaching guitarists all over who get some cool info from your experience. Cheers!Soul from Sydney
+Saul Gerber Many thanks my friend! I'm so glad that you are getting the information you need and aren't scared to do the adjustments yourself. As you can now see...music stores make a LOT of money for turning the truss rod or simply changing a set of strings. Then they oil (and over oil) your fingerboard to a point that your frets can fall out and guess what.....yep, you get to pay MORE to have new frets put in because the cause things to happen to guitars to get you back in. I'm glad that people are not getting cheated as much these days. This Internet thing is actually good for SOMETHING. I'm proud to have you checking out some of the things that I post, very appreciated!
Thank you Scott! I've been saying the same for years. Now I can just point them to your video for a professional fact. Your the best. Keep posting the videos please.
I learned more in a half hour than I have in years of reading about/discussing these subjects. Thanks! Unfortunately, I oiled my fretboard today. I wished I would have seen this sooner. Cheers
Understand your points. I think it comes down to personal preference which is what it is.
+Bryan Hopkins Exactly. It's if you prefer the fingerboard to rot and the frets to fall out or not. I prefer...not. Cheers.
I live in a very dry climate (south Spain) and have guitars since 1998 or so. Never had a problem due to not oiling them, even without using an humidifier.
i never oiled my 63 model you do. the. math its still perfect
Well, I can say what I do but I can easily see some using the wrong type of oil or perhaps soaking it, leaving it on which I agree completely. OK Rosewood, I have an extra think Gibson fretboard, it is not sealed and fact of nature wood continues to dry and simply degrade into nothing in time. While I agree it is not "needed" as plenty of oil comes off your fingers, but, does tend to get dirty and my Rosewood will get lighter and dry looking which also does not lend itself to holding the frets perfectly over time/
What I do is maybe once a year, remove all the strings, take a cloth put a drop or two of my non food related conditioner and rub vigorously to remove the dirt and grime, a minute amount of the oil conditioner goes into the wood and it is slight but I think that sort of thing is never going to hurt anything and I prefer not letting my expensive guitars turn to crap.
I use this petroleum based oil but only as a medium to wipe and clean a fretboard which yeah makes it nice but also extends its life. Wood needs to dry to be sure but there is such a thing as too dry as well. Rosewood is the only thing I have ever had to mess with as it does dry out unless you enjoy just having your finger grime serve as its oil source..
Great info man! I agree! it took me about 20 years but you're right. I have a strat with maple neck. I learned to use a dry toothbrush around the frets just to get some of the small dirt off the frets then wipe with a dry cloth. Great video man.
If I hadn’t taken your advice from previous videos I would have treated the fingerboard during every string change. I hope you had a very Merry Christmas Scott.
Thanks Scott! As they say at Faber College,
KNOWLEDGE IS GOOD !
If it’s what you say, I believe it. You’ve been around guitars for years and I appreciate you sharing. I always check with a couple guys videos before I do anything to a guitar.✌🏻
Awesome Scott! So glad I found this video. Was just about to linseed oil my rosewood fretboard because I was 'told' that's what you need to do! Thanks for being the voice of reason....
hi scott i use hand cream on fret hand before playing my hand sldes great
I've been using bowling lane oil on my ebony fingerboard for about 13 years now and it hasn't hurt it at all. it actually plays faster. use it on the back of the neck and body as well. so far so good. lol
Your previous vid about oiling frets was enough to never let any kind of oil touch any of my fretboards ever. Per your advice, I only clean my frets with water and nothing else. Still very satisfied with your advice. Rock on, man.
I have never had a guitar break down on me. For 25 years, not one.
I *clean* my frets with water. I don't soak them. Moist cloth is all it needs.
GREAT INFO! Wood, like sponges, swells and shrinks based on moisture volume. Different woods have different densities, will shrink/swell at different rates/amounts. Oiling (ESPECIALLY only treating selected areas of the instrument) is messing with nature/natural balance. All my instruments are naturally maintained by keeping them properly humidified (as you pointed out), nothing more, and they have served me well for decades.
Right; linseed oil will leave almost a varnish type finish if you put it on thick enough and/or often enough. It`s great for axe handles though, seals them right up and keeps the handle from shrinking and loosening up in the head....if anybody cares.
Scott you are one of a kind brother
I once oiled the back of my guitars neck with a little drizzle of olive oil. It got a satin finish feel to it, even though its lacquered. I think I broke the finish, but it got better😂
That Music Nomad F-ONE OIL is fantastic for oiling my wood lemon juicer and the wooden spoons I use for making Tomato sauce. I'm not joking. Some of my Olivewood spoons were 80 bucks and this stuff is great. As for the rosewood fretboards. If you leave it on too long it will soften the wood so you can gouge it with your fingernail. Scott is right, leave the fretboard alone!
Interesting information here. I wish I've known that back in the 70s. Though, I used Stewart-Mac fingerboard cleaner (has petroleum distillates) you leave it overnight. Before that I use Naphtha (hard to get in Calif. these days) on fingerboard, then 0000 steel wool wipe off use the Stew-Mac stuff.....no problem. Year later Music Nomad F-One oil. Looking back... all that stuff really unnecessary. The Gibson Acoustic '76 and the '98 Carvin Bolt fingerboards are fine...no problems. As someone told me," man, you like spending money on this junk". Reminds me of P.T. Barnum saying, "There's a sucker born.........well, you know the saying. As Dan Erlewine in his book of guitar repairs says sometimes SPIT can do a real good job of cleaning the guitar, but he only does that in his own guitars sometimes. Good advice....keep it simple and saves $$$$ in the long run. Thanks Scott for the videos.
I like the 12 string you grabbed
Guilty as charged! Have to admit I had a guitar in its case for what seemed to be over a decade and the fretboard looked a-ok when I started playing it again. This past summer I bought a schecter guitar and when I got it I thought the fretboard looked mighty dry, or at least I was not a fan of the light colored wood, so I oiled it and did so every string change (3-4 months). Thank you for your videos, I'll have to give the humidifier a try instead of rubbing oil!
Thanks for the intelligent info on oils !!! What you are saying Makes perfect sense and thanks for the no nonsense...No bullshit Videos!!! Rock on Brother Groovy !!!
Scott’s right you don’t need anything extra oil , my main guitar has an unfinished neck and fretboard the natural oils from my hands makes it fast and smooth
i took your advice, I was going to buy an oil a couple months ago, then seen this, I just wet at towel with some water and it works great.... sometimes your fingers will stick in the neck or on the strings after it gets dirty, just wipe it down with a wet paper towel and it becomes fast again
I'm with you Scott .Have a D25 Guild I got second hand over 40 years ago never done anything to it other than replace the strings as with all my guitars, with the same gauge that came off, love the tone of the guild better than guitars that cost a lot more ,Have a good Christmas great channel
Thanks. I always wondered about oils from my hands getting into the plank.
Mostly agree with you. I am a busy touring bassist with generally sweaty/greasy hands. Many climates, humidities, dusty environments. Sometimes my fretboards gunk up so bad. I'm not one to keep my instruments squeaky clean but the gunk gets all over the strings and generally kinda gross and I WANT to remove it. I don't have to but I want to. I clean it off with lemon juice and a plastic scrubber pad. Comes off instantly. I use a very small amount of Johnson Paste Wax to put a little moisture back on to the fretboard because a dry fretboard feels rough and it bugs me. Usually the paste wax lasts a couple of days and starts drying out but by then I've probably sweat all over it and the process begins again. Usually takes about a year or two to get to that point.
+83Adrock WOW, it's your axe. lol I just wouldn't want to be your axe. Cheers.
Great to hear you say to keep your own opinions to yourselves and start your own site. Cheers from NZ
Good video. Haven't watched you channel in a few months. Looks like your doing pretty well health wise now compared to when I watched you last. I got myself a Rainsong guitar a few months back and it's such a great guitar. I feel it must be a good choice if it's in your arsenal collection.. Take care and keep on rockin' buddy.
+Robert Liles Welcome back! Yeah....someone asked me what guitars I would keep if I could only pick a couple out of my collection and had to sell the rest. The Rainsong was the only acoustic that was on that list I made. I love it that much. Thanks again for checking back in and have a super GROOVY New Year!
great information and truth. the world need more rational people like you
great topic scott.from now on ill just wipe off the dust with a clean rag only.
That Rain Song sounded outstanding.
First I would like to say you gave me a really good belly laugh when you said people can keep their opinions to themselves on my TH-cam site. I’ll probably delete 200 or more comments. Ha Ha. Thanks so much Mr. Grove for this video about oiling the guitar fretboard. My mind was suggesting I oil my acoustic guitar fretboards, and I had everything ready, but first I was researching TH-cam videos on the matter… then I discovered your TH-cam video on Oil Your Guitar’s Fretboard. I know very little about guitar care, but I’ve watched videos on Guitar Luthiers constructing acoustics. Your explanation as to why you for sure you should not oil your fretboard... I really get it. I've never oiled my acoustic guitar fretboards, and now after listening to your video I will only clean my guitar with a damp cloth, and not use any liquid on it whatsoever. One statement you said I really like, the tree is dead, the wood has been just about completely dried out.
Many thanks, I'm glad that SOMEONE gets my humor. lol I'm glad you found the video and that it put some sensible thoughts in your head. I love it when someone can make that decision over the other methods that sheeple all follow. lol Play well and stay GROOVY!
i just switched to the poly web strings you like and wow they really dont go dead lol. im still trying to relearn after loosing my middle fretting finger but were getting there.
If my Rosewood fingerboard is dry, I wipe a thin layer of forehead oil on it. It's natural, not plant or animal derived and provides just the right amount of slickness for those fingers to work like they should.
+Martin PDX We are still considered to be animals (mammals). For the people who don't know this guy, he's HONESTLY more correct in doing exactly THAT than the retailers and manufacturers are being. YOUR NATURAL OILS ARE ALL YOU NEED.....NOTHING ELSE. I you actually PLAY your instrument, it doesn't NEED anything else added to it. Playing it is simply enough to keep everything "Conditioned" and keeps your wood "Healthy". So, being as serious as a heart attack...between Martin's post and my response, you could copy/paste the 2 out to real wood workers and makers of SUPERB INSTRUMENTS who do not do ANYTHING other than build the instruments (meaning they have no financial interests nor endorsements nor kickbacks of any kind to companies who make and sell instrument polishes or conditioners and oils).....you will 100% get the affirmed nod from each of them that playing your instrument is all it needs. Nothing more needs to be said to all of you all and nothing else needs to be said to me on this subject. This sums it up and is simply THE TRUTH.....not just my opinion. Cheers.
+Groovy Music Lessons I was half way kidding with my post. But I did get a strat recently with a rosewood fingerboard. It's brand new out of the box. But, the wood was so dry that bending was a bitch. So I just wiped a bit of forehead oil over the wood (super thin, cant see it) and it helped. Mind you it wasn't slick, but it helped. Of course over time the wood will wear in and all will be groovy. So yeah, playing it will get those finger oils one needs, but for a new neck, it wasn't helping me out so I resorted to this.
+Martin PDX I hear you. New....you never know what you're gonna get. I just try to hang them up for about a week and let the humidity level do its thing and then all is good. So, if you have to give your axe foreHEAD....rock on! lol I had to do it. lol
30 years on my rosewood fret board. clean it with a dry cloth after a sweaty gig. that's it.
Great vid. Furniture polish? Linseed? Lemon oil? Mineral oil? Gibson guitar polish? Fast Fret? Most people need realize they're spreading a petroleum byproduct on their instruments. Linseed is industrialized flax oil. So, what you're saying Scott, most things people apply to their guitars will actually damage the guitar in the long run. Do not wet a soft cloth with tap water, wring it out, and clean your guitar. Use purified or distilled H2O. This is what is coming from Scott's humidifier. This is why Oasis humidifiers demand distilled water in their product, in which people of most do not follow directions and use tap water. Do not use tap water.
+TangeOrheen My tap water is made pure for my guitars through the special filtering and double softeners. I use up between 8 and 14 gallons per day in that single room with the doors always closed. I did use distilled for a while week last month when 2 of my water softeners were down (They are then purified 3 more times before they reach the tap). The water here in the desert is hard enough that you will NEVER, EVER see out your car windows again if you park too close to the edge of your driveway when the lawn sprinklers pop up. Most of the cars here have little to no finish on them. It's quite amazing. No need to wring out the rag at all. There's not enough on there to squeeze one single drop out of the rag BEFORE I touch it to the fingerboard. It's quite funny to read all of the "Professional" suggestions for this. Premier Guitar wants people to DOUCHE their guitars......yep....vinegar and water. lol Gibson wants distilled water mixed with all 48 of their branded products on there. Most companies will ask that you used distilled water for those little guitar case humidifiers. So, it made a lot more sense for me, in this location of the nation, to have all that installed instead of hauling semi truck loads of distilled to be delivered monthly.
Groovy Music Lessons We may have a new vision here : ) point: how can ya hear "tonewood" if your guitar is smudged? I just watched a vid with an asian guy dumpin' a bunch of f-oil or some shit on his fretboard and scrapin' it off with steel wool. WTF? I use a Q-tip, and I have VERY clean guitars. As you do. So my question, of course, is does a dirty guitar affect tone? I would say yes. LOL! Yeah, we got one here. I'll never buy a black guitar again. Fingaz~
Car oil 10W30 works the best to be honest. Preferably used car oil because it darkens the fingerboard nicely!
Nice to see you back man
yep the good at opening up those. boiled linsead oil has a drier in it that's what I'd use they put it on expensive gun stocks.but I'd wipe it all off after it was on for a sec or two that's it!
I do restain my rosewood fingerboards with jell stain every couple of years to darken them back up.
Hope you have a Merry Christmas and happy holiday season Scott. Take care of yourself Bro!
Scott Grove thank you for all your videos and great info..
Thank you Scott. I can dig it.
Hi Scott, Took my telecaster to get humbuckers replaced at SAM ASH, for active pick ups told the guy not to add oils to my fingerboard at all because I clean it with water and a rag which is great, therefore he tells me water is BAD because it’ll swell the wood😃 thought he could change my mind lol
Hey Scott, I've used a product called "Scott's (coincidence?) Liquid Gold" on my ebony fret board for many years, mostly to clean it. Don't do it often and not sure what's in it but I never had any issues with that product. Wondering if you or your viewers can shed some light on it. Thanks friend!
happy christmas Groovy fans
To use humidifiers you need to have a separate guitar room....I have cheep but lovely Peavy JF 1 I boght it b stock. It looked like it hunger it the Shop for a few years. I used some leanseed oil on the fingerboard after cleaning and it looks just great the second months already. I put some ballestoll, gun oil, on the deck. The same way i treat my shoutgun stock. It looks also great. Will see although.
That Taylor is impressive, from a woodworking perspective. Would have liked to hear it.
th-cam.com/video/yoaS-9Vw3wM/w-d-xo.html there's my review on it.
Mr. Doctor Groovy Man, thanks for the video , it keeps all of us that are concerned informed of the good and the bad ways to do things. The Right and the Wrong, The Good, The Bad , The ugly.. I Personally like the Gibson Tone Polish video, LOL, If you are a Git -Fiddle Player it gave you a Great Workout. LOL, to be serious, thank you for all of your Knowledge of Guitars, and everything that you know how to play, those of us who give a Damn, like what you have taught us, Thank You, Happy Holidays my Friend, Cousin Figel
Very educational!
Lots of truth in your videos, which I appreciate. I like a way an oiled fretboard looks, but it doesn't make any difference other than cosmetic. And good googly moogly you've got to use as little oil as possible because otherwise all your dead skin cells and all the dust in your life will attach itself to your guitar.
Keep making these awesome videos!
I've never oiled any of my fretboards. Someone once suggested that I should and I rolled my eyes so hard they almost got stuck.
Thanks Scott
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and all all the best to you and all your family,
Be Groovy
yours truly
Bojan
You're a beautiful and inspiring person :) thanks for the info.
I was told, years ago by a luthier at Atlantic Violin Supplies, that light olive oil is the best thing for ebony finger boards. Put on and wiped completely off immediately. I believe light olive oil is a partially drying oil. Some oils like lemon oil or Tung oil are drying oils and dry to form a varnish. Other oils like many vegetable oils or petroleum oils don't dry and tend to remain wet. Light olive oil lies somewhere in the middle. According to the luthier I spoke with light olive oil has been used on ebony fingerboards some of which are a century old and still are fine. Avoid getting it on the body of an acoustic instrument. Anyhow, I am certainly no expert, and am only relaying what was told to me regarding ebony boards.
Yeah, that's where rumors get started and continue. One guy just repeats that stuff. Of course Olive oil would be harmful since it is a food oil and would get in there and simply spoil and rot. The wood would rot and you would eventually have white mold on your fingerboard. It's cool of you to realize that it COULD be an old wives tail etc. and in this case, it was. It's refreshing to have a guy with an open mind posting on here. Thank you.
I certainly didn't mean to contradict your words of wisdom and cause someone to wreck their guitar. I have (and have read) an instrument finishing book by Dan Erlewine which he describes the various oils used in wood finishing, along with just about any of the major types of paints, varnishes and lacquers used in instrument finishing. It is an interesting read to anyone interested in finishing or refinishing musical instruments.
***** Hmm. I have heard that linseed is not that good in that it is a drying oil which leaves a varnish behind after it has dried. I think lemon oil is the same. I think olive oil is a semi drying oil which does not polymerize when it contact oxygen.
You shouldn't use any oils. They will rot your fingerboard. If you spoke to a REAL luthier who makes violins, he would know better and cringe at the thought of you putting food oils on your wood, which will spoil (because they are food) and it will mold and ruing anything you put that junk on. Stop talking to people, they really have less than zero idea what they are talking about. Linseed oil is a varnish, not a wood conditioner. There is no wood conditioner. You simply want to moisten the wood a bit. Any REAL luthier will tell you to simply buff it really hard, use a slight bit of water or spit. This is the 100% truth. Any sort of alcohol will ruin fine instruments like violins, violas, cellos etc. Classical musicians laugh at guitarists on this matter. They always say that we go retarded as soon as frets are installed on our instruments. They are correct. I could go on all day...you axe, if you want to ruin it...go right ahead. Do yourself a favor, just Google, violin/fingerboard/water/spit and learn something. You will have 12 year olds spouting off about alcohol etc. and the masters will quickly jerk a knot in their tail. Some things are cut and dry right and wrong. Having sex with your sister is just as wrong as putting ANYTHING other than water and spit on a classical instrument fingerboard. How many times have you oiled a tree to watch it grow? Think it through.
Groovy Music Lessons Sounds good. As I said before, I spoke years ago with the guys at Atlantic Violin Supplies who did recommend light olive oil on ebony fingerboards for violins.
atlanticviolinsupplies.com/HelpfulHints.asp
And I was impressed when speaking with them about varnishes, glues, repairs, luthier tools and other subjects. I think the term "going rancid" is not specific enough. When some oils oxidize they will certainly taste a little foul. But the oxidation process which creates a polymer is exactly what you want if for example if you are seasoning a cast iron pan. Other food products like milk "go rancid" through bacterial processes. I don't think that is necessarily true of what happens to a clear oil when they oxidize. The violin is also a little different in that you are always trying to fight off rosin buildup on the fingerboard. (And everywhere else) So it is a much bigger battle than what a guitarist has to deal with. Interesting that you bring up spittle. Those same guys said always use the least offensive solvent when cleaning an instrument. A little water and a soft clothe to start out with. If that doesn't work use spit as a solvent and a soft clothe. If that doesn't work, try to live with the stained instrument as it is. Thanks for all your reviews.
happy Christmas and a very good new year Scott....I did put some Gibson tone oil on my mic...I sound like Barry White now....
Hope you are doing well, Scott
Gotta agree, dry cloth and damp at max.
Tried linseed oil once, never again, smells to fishy. 🤣
There's only a couple of things that should smell fishy...your guitar is not one of them. lol
Thanks Scott !!!
Great vid and good info, thanks.
Next Gibson will make a polish that makes nitro breath... And people will still get it
Love your videos. Not opening a can of worms but make an interesting comparison. Ebony and rosewood fret board wood in its natural state does NOT need conditioner ...Because it is protected by the trees outer layer of bark skin etc. But remember when it is taken from that state, and cut into a slab..it is then exposed to temp changes, dry air...moisture changes..etc. You could keep all of your guitars in the humidifier room for its life. ( Collectors more so than players ) I keep a humidifier in my acoustic guitar room because acoustics wood is always exposed. You asked the question in your title... Do you oil the body? Answer.. yes. ( eye creams.... facial moisturizer.... elbow cream etc) Now.. I heard you mention clear coat. So I present your own theory? Why would you clear coat a fingerboard? Do you clear coat the body? Point being... your clear coat board confirms that open grain wood needs protection. That's one of the reasons most guitars are finished or painted ( not just to be pretty ). Lemon oil Canola oil...vegetable oil is a SIN ! Like you said.. they are food products. Lemon oil actually dries the wood because of the acidic properties. Maple boards don't need conditioner because it is a tight closed grain wood and is usually clear coated ( again... proves that the wood needs protecting ) You do know guitars brother...but Im offering up this builders wood knowledge for your consideration. Wood like geology.. is a science...more than just the given names that people memorize. There is much more to wood biology than just memorizing names of woods. Taking finish off... wont change the tone..... but watch the wood after 10 years. Now you will probably delete this or block because its not a worshipful message of confirmation. But at least you read it and... will often recall it. Much like the guy that walks into a room and shouts BLUE BLUE BLUE at the top of his lungs ! People will think hes a nut job.. and dismiss him. But they will always..at some point...remember him shouting those words. Tung oil or tru oil does the trick..a little once a year.
Your just awsome man!!!!!
Haha! That's a great shirt, very groovy. Merry Christmas my friend :-)
Merry Christmas Mr&Mrs WoodWorker!!!
The picture shows the oil can guitars. I bought a Bohemian guitar (the Moonshine) and couldn't keep it in tune. I finally noticed that the tailpiece is pulling out of the wood. Cheap ass guitar made in china. Bitching done. Have a great Christmas and much success and health in the upcoming year.
Merry Christmas Scott!
I bought Lemon oil, thank god I haven't used it. I'll rebrand, bottle and sell it to people who listen to guitards.
Hey Dr. Humidity Nice looking pair of Gibson Les Paul Studio Lite M-IIIs..
The truth hurts lots of people's feelings..
Merry Christmas Scott.
I love you man! I love your videos!
Glad you like them!
I totally agree. Im
No expert guitarist. But I kno about wood..
this is the first topic where im not on the same page... the first thing that comes in mind is my wooden house facade.. if you do nothing it gets silver in about a year, if you oil it it gets darker and silver in 5.. so for me its about water protection (also sunlight protection is a thing so store it right) the problem is overuse of oil i agree... swollen frets, moving neck, backbow (for some guitars just dead)
wrong oil can corrode the board, some oils can bleach the fret board .. that's the reason why im not so sure about lemon oil (lemon juice is bleaching a lot of materials).. but smells nice.. for me a not aggressive way would be some kind of mineral oil (a not aggressive one, not evaporating, maybe food save, no color, no smell)..
oil on the body.. for me.. only the parts i touch and that are wood.. so yes you could oil our body....guitar body but im not using oil directly i use a microfiber towel (there are good ones and there are bad ones).. feels a bit like leather.. and i don't apply the oil on the towel or the guitar.. i oil a piece of wood with the towel till i get no gloss finish.. some would call it "dry" and apply mor oil.. for me thats what i want and i use that to polish the gunk of my guitar away.. all you notice is a slight color change when you stoke 5 times the same fret..
why this way? because that way there is not enough oil to soak the neck.. if you soak it the first time 2 mm into the wood.,. the next time it's 3 mm into the wood.. 10 years later the whole neck is filled with oil, 1kg heavier.. a vibrating spring drowned in oil.. at least that is my imagination
and for me the question "should you or should you not oil" is answered in how much do you play the thing.. and how sweaty are you ... water is the enemy
i play in a little room with two tube amps my gaming pc.. 3 screens.. in in the roof floor.. the 70's AC30 always tries to kill me because of overheat so i swat (42°C, 107°F room temp measured last year).... and i play each day... sometimes 6h on the same guitar.. so when i feel that my fingers are wet i know it would damage more than a bit of oil... if my body is startig to get his own atmosphere i know the humidity in the room is climbing.. .. i play on 2 of my 5 instruments since 16 years the 1980's gibson from my father still look's and play's great so i think i did nothing wrong.. .. well soon she needs a sister because of the fret hight..thinking about a "PRS S2 Custom 22 Semi-Hollow" or "Düsenberg Starplayer TV Plus" the one with Piezo pickup in the Bridge..
so if its a good build guitar.. and you watch about sun and humidity.. you can play that thing the next 50 years.. probably on a daily basis without anything.. can you kill your guitar with oil.. sure.. can you kill your guitar with water.. sure.. .. so if you would kill your guitar with water regardless.. maybe a drop of oil can leed to a longer life?
I can PROVE this really fast. The humidity in my house averages 10%. I go through about 10 gallons of water per day in the humidifiers in my music room only. Without all that WATER to keep the humidity at 50% I wouldn't have any guitars. SOOOOO, it's WATER that saves every single instrument I own daily. It takes care of the instruments from head to toe. A drop or a gallon of any oil CAN'T do that. There it is. I must literally soak my guitars in what amounts to a green house in order to keep them from drying out and blowing away.
^^ well.. also when you store wood for a longer time you soak it in water... but that is not what i meant
average humidity in gemany is with 68% .. but also 10%-95% depending on the season and you are right to average this with a humidifier because every change equals stress and the chance to move on you (will wood easier moves with high humiditi and temperature but also cracks easyer with both low)
but what would you say to the idea that i give you a wet towel..water.. and you clean your fingerboard.. once a day for about an hour or 2.. and i mean soaking wet... or stand out in the rain... i guess you would agree direct water is the enemy...
and if you would play your guitar sweating like Angus Young.. it is exatly that.. rubbing a wet towel for about 2h a day on it.. not wat you want
to clarify why i think water is the enemy..
your reason is right.. because of the hard change in humidity and stress it gets with every change..
0-30 gram / m³ water equals 0-100% humidity
so actual water content of the air is less than 1%.. you worry between 0,0-0,5% (0,3% on 100% humidity if i'm guessing right) difference in actual water content of the air.. i'm worried about 100% pure water
that also means when you get a swaty hand on your fingerboard the humidity around the water will climb to 100% while it vaporizes before it is mixed with the surrounding air.. in the wood is no surrounding air (minimal but no movement) yes in a normal case all of the water vaporizes fast enough to have nearly no impact on the humidity of the wood (thats the reason why i said the most people will play a guitar 50 years with no problem)
but in some cases you play in 95% humidity, sweat like a beast in 35°C .. enough that you hand on the mirror will leave a huge print of condensate ..
so when you got 30 guitars in a humidity room.. you probably will not oil them.. but when you gig with it.. in a club where the sweat drop's from the sealing.. play while it rains.. the bit of oil will extend the time the wood humidity changes (you neck and the wood is a room with 50% humidity.. close the door to the surrounding rooms and that will never change)
by the way that would mean you humidify 240m³ air a day .. you should really think about closing a door :P
Long story short, I'm doing the right thing and you should follow my example, say thank you and go enjoy some more of my videos.
well i will enjoy some of your videos ^^..
but i'm stubborn so i won't follow your lead this time
Nope.
Hey Scott,
Thanks!! The humidifier is a great idea. I am buying one. What is a good humidity you use for your room? I am also going to buy a Digital Humidity and Temperature Monitor. They are about $10.
Thanks!!
Yeah, the unit that hangs there on your wall is a Hygrometer....your price is right, sometimes even less. Perfect conditions are around 70 degrees and about 50% humidity will do just fine.
Hey Scott,
Thank you for the info!! I greatly appreciate it!!
I'm so glad I saw your page. I believe in the guy saying don't buy shit and you stand by it and thats cool. Question.My fender strat has that black thick gunk around the frets left there by the previous owner. It's does have a gloss layer on the neck but I'm hesitant to throw chemicals on it. I don't know anything about wood care but I saw all the products and saw it's all marketing bs. Plus Ever notice furniture surfaces and how they get nasty if you stop using those special cleaners? I agree i lightly wet thing is best best. So back to the question. Should I scrape very gently to all the frets and go paleontologist stupid on it or ummm .... any ideas? Any suggestion would be very appreciated.
I have a blond maple top to my solid body. Very well made custom guitar, but it didn't get enough coats of finish on it. Now I have this rough gray areas due to my right hand rubbing it. Funny how natural wood furniture never goes gray..so I'm not sure how to get the finish and color back. Super fine sand paper and alcohol?
Hey thanks Dr groovy for all that
I was just about to clean my guitar and rub a bit oil on the fret
I think I will use a little water 💦
So is it good or ok to have steamer in your room every now and then
What about feed and wax? I saw that tip from someone. I've used it to clean the unsealed fretboard (rosewood). Wipe on and wipe off. Just would like your opinion. Thanks.
Hi Scott, I hope you can advise me what to do here.I have a 76 Fender Jazz bass that was stripped down to the Alder/Maple ''real wood''Whomever did this clear coated after the fact but here's the problem.I've had the bass since 1992 and gig'd a plenty with her, over the years sweat and dirt have worn the lacquer off and invaded the wood in the body where my arm rests above the bridge, also where I rest my thumb over the neck pickup, How do I clean this beautiful old girl of a bass properly.Thank You and keep up the good work You Rock
Question for you Scott, Thanks for the info about the oils. I havent really played in years and have an Ibanez RG 350EX. I've never replaced the strings on its been in a bag. So if I shouldnt use a food based oil what can you recomend. And do most polish clothes have lemon based in them if so whats my best alternative?
Excellent Grove. Common sense prevails!
Informative and I dig your opinion backed by your experience. You have definitely given me something to think about. What's opinion on using 4 OT steel wool for cleaning and polishing fret-boards and frets?
So I sometimes use a ultra fine oil on my strings. I try and keep the strings new longer as I play one guitar for a week and then another and so on. My reasoning is that it will keep my salty sweat from rusting the strings before I get back to it. It does seem to work. What poetical harm am I causing Groovy? It seems to me that you would have te same problem with a wall of guitars. What do you do?
Hello and happy new year Scott! +Groovy Music Lessons
I am really wondering about getting aGuitar's fretboard back in shape when purchased from a pawnshop or 2nd hand when they are dirty and grimy... sometimes they are beautiful but you really want to get that.. dna ... of the guitar. I always try cleaning the body with damp cloth or very light cleaner and compressed air... but the fretboard... what do you think? Oh yea i usually leave them in my jam room for a few days next to the humidifier before i start checking them out.
thanks
You are the god
Water and spit is all you need? Groovy!
lol, next thing you know stp,pensoil,castrol,ect will be a guarantee five Minute oil change at guitar center or next one free lol lol, MERRY CHRISTMAS DR. GROOVY AKA SCOTT GROVE, have a wonderful holiday you & family!!
Doctor Groovy, A friend of mine is a wood carver, i have many of his carvings in my living room.. He told me that the wood called Purple Heart is the hardest wood that he has ever worked with, Very Very Tight Grain, But the wood is heavy, he said that if someone made guitar neck & fretboard out of it , that you probably would Never have any problems with the neck. Have you ever heard of any Guitar wood made of Purple Heart?, Cheers bro, Cousin Figel
+Cousin Figel Yeah, a lot of the really high end guitars of yesteryear used Purple Heart. Basses mainly from Alembic, Moonstone etc. It looks great once it's worked with though. Pretty stuff.
hi scott. merry christmas!
I have only used Howard's Feed-N-Wax once I don't know if it has lemon oil in it though. I'm not sure what to think of it right now That was the first time I have ever used anything like that. I honestly can say I haven't had a guitar yet that has really needed fingerboard conditioner on my guitars. They all look fine really apart from the fingerboards needing cleaned.. So many people keep telling me it is necessary to use this stuff. It was Wills easy guitars who recommended the Howard's Feed-N-Wax He did say to use it very sparingly. What do you think of that stuff is it bad too ? I always just used a cloth and some slightly warm water again just a little.Its your advice I follow because I trust you. Anyways at the moment I'm actually using your method to polish up my frets. Once again Scott thank you. It really helped.
Thanks for the info, But If you store a solid body in the case, should a humidifier be used?
+avalon747 Check the humidity level in the case. If it's below 35%, then get one for sure.
In a previous video I saw Nigel inseminating one of your guitars. How did that turn out?☺ LOL Thanks again for all your good advice! I noticed that this vid was very comprehensive, clear and to the point. Great job! I like how you referenced a professional guitar shop. I have been 'there' and I can coroborate what you said about them. Although i don't remember seeing a humidifier in their new store, but perhaps the humidity is added through the ductwork??
happy holidays