I've got one of these and i think it needs about one more inch of smoke shelf, which would be swinging, like my larger stove has. I'll probable make it out of some scrap sheet copper i saved. In my man-shack i used the included 3 3/8 pipe then continued with regular 4" galv. for about another 3 ft. using a reducer fitting. The little stove draws pretty well even with high wind. To avoid smoke back when starting it cold i point my propane tank-top heater right into the box for about five minutes to warm it up.. There is no doubt this stove would work better with a 4" pipe
I cut 1/4" steel plate to the same size of the fire brick so I can adjust the opening gap as needed! I used 4 plates! Instead of cutting the fire brick I just remove a plate to increase the gap of the opening!
Hope this helps ! Use washers on the sides of the brick so you can slide it out, clamp it all in place, tack weld & done. Start with full brick & remove an inch at a time if you need to.
@@davidyummus6259 Can you also just weld up a baffle made of sheet steel? Why the firebrick? Also, have you considered a secondary air source to ignite the smoke?
@@seanauth Haven't thought of secondary air,... The brick is so it's removable & adjustable by cutting off some brick if it's choking,... One dude used a removable metal baffle instead of the brick.
Depending on your altitude & timber burned, try 2 different length fire bricks as baffles,... I have one that is 6 inches long & one at full length of 9 inches & I find that if I burn crappy wood like pallet timber I use the shorter baffle to encourage a bit more air flow. If you find your not burning clean or hot enough with the full length baffle then switch to the 6 inch or cut your full brick down to 6 inch or 7 or whatever works for you :)
Instead of doing all that, why not just put a "FLU DAMPER" in the flu pipe? This way you can adjust the airflow as needed and not modify the stove. 🤔 .
It comes with a Damper but using the Damper slows the flow of air & smoke,... The Baffle just offers a wall for the air & smoke to pass around as the Baffle stops the Fire going straight up the pipe
@@davidyummus6259 Thanks for the FAST reply. I have a wood heater but it's not like what you have. My damper works Great at adjusting the air flow and slowing the burning rate of my 🔥 firewood. Also, my damper is close to the heater (inches), maybe that makes a difference ???? I'm an expert on Nothing.😁 Wishing you and yours the best. .
I've got one of these and i think it needs about one more inch of smoke shelf, which would be swinging, like my larger stove has. I'll probable make it out of some scrap sheet copper i saved. In my man-shack i used the included 3 3/8 pipe then continued with regular 4" galv. for about another 3 ft. using a reducer fitting. The little stove draws pretty well even with high wind. To avoid smoke back when starting it cold i point my propane tank-top heater right into the box for about five minutes to warm it up.. There is no doubt this stove would work better with a 4" pipe
Do you have a video of your mods?
I just bought one of these stoves today.
I apreciate the reviews and tips! your advise has made my stove a much more efficient box! thank you!
Have you made any changes ?
Thanks for the comment :)
I cut 1/4" steel plate to the same size of the fire brick so I can adjust the opening gap as needed! I used 4 plates! Instead of cutting the fire brick I just remove a plate to increase the gap of the opening!
Nice !... Have you tried it yet ?
This is what I've been looking for!
Hope this helps !
Use washers on the sides of the brick so you can slide it out, clamp it all in place, tack weld & done.
Start with full brick & remove an inch at a time if you need to.
@@davidyummus6259 Can you also just weld up a baffle made of sheet steel? Why the firebrick? Also, have you considered a secondary air source to ignite the smoke?
@@seanauth
Haven't thought of secondary air,... The brick is so it's removable & adjustable by cutting off some brick if it's choking,... One dude used a removable metal baffle instead of the brick.
One of those Flap Discs fitted to my 4 inch angle grinder removed that metal collar easily :)
Doing this tomorrow thanks for the tip
Depending on your altitude & timber burned, try 2 different length fire bricks as baffles,... I have one that is 6 inches long & one at full length of 9 inches & I find that if I burn crappy wood like pallet timber I use the shorter baffle to encourage a bit more air flow.
If you find your not burning clean or hot enough with the full length baffle then switch to the 6 inch or cut your full brick down to 6 inch or 7 or whatever works for you :)
How long of burn times do you get?
Depends on the wood but the baffle does stop a lot of heat shooting up the pipe.
3.99 now for fire bricks crazy times
First off thank you. Are you concerned about warping of the parts of the stove or have you seen any ?
Just the top a little because I put a heavy cast iron pan on it to cook,... I would use a lighter steel pan :)
Instead of doing all that, why not just put a "FLU DAMPER" in the flu pipe? This way you can adjust the airflow as needed and not modify the stove. 🤔
.
It comes with a Damper but using the Damper slows the flow of air & smoke,... The Baffle just offers a wall for the air & smoke to pass around as the Baffle stops the Fire going straight up the pipe
@@davidyummus6259 Thanks for the FAST reply. I have a wood heater but it's not like what you have. My damper works Great at adjusting the air flow and slowing the burning rate of my 🔥 firewood. Also, my damper is close to the heater (inches), maybe that makes a difference ???? I'm an expert on Nothing.😁
Wishing you and yours the best.
.
@@DD-uf2uo 😁
Someone sell me one? I don't have access to welding.
I went to a muffler shop & they welded it for me :)