One of the more eye opening things for me about watching TH-cam channels like yours is that repairs such as this are possible, I went through most of my geek life thinking PCB damage usually meant death for any component. If you watch Tony at Northwestrepair do this type of repair on modern GPUs it is crazy especially when theres 12+ layers involved.
That makes sense though. A modern 12 layer board on a GPU is worth something. This old Asus board, even maxxed out would be beat by a Raspberry Pi. That is not to say that the skills employed aren't useful... This is just messing around with old tech for the sake of it.
All that board archaeology, then still bad IDE. Good it was just a bridged resistor pack. Thank goodness only 4 layer, very nice repair for very nice 440BX.
@@monad_tcp It is my understanding that full sized ATX motherboards usually have 4-6 layers still, actually. It gets way too expensive to get more layers on a board that big so they try very very hard to keep it at no more than 6. I do know that in some products they can use 12 or 14 layers, but I don't think any $100 motherboard has that.
@@monad_tcp Not really. A lot of value motherboards still use a 4 PCB layer construction. The higher end motherboards used 6-8 layer construction. This was the case when you compared a Gigabyte 'Durable' series to an 'Ultra Durable' series.
@@ABRetroCollections Well - My Asrock X670E Steel Legend has 8 layers and is considered a medium series motherboard, but even the higher versions (Tachi) motherboards won't go above 8 layer, so I think you are spot on.
As a viewer, the repair seems manageable until the second the GIGANTIC, ENORMOUS soldering iron tip comes into view and shows how freaking small these traces are. Well done!
Coincidentally several years back I broke the edge of a perf board when cutting it for some projects. I did the same fix with super glue, but used pcb saw dusts instead. When everything was fixed up, couldn't even visibly tell it was broken before.
I actually didn't know the grey was a bug! I always just assumed my crappy screen was being crappy as usual. Also, thanks to videos like this, I have now gotten into microsoldering, saved several badly damaged boards (torn off ic pins, lightning damage), and will start fixing my rtx4080 this weekend, after it randomly let the smoke out of a Vcore power stage last saturday. Let's hope the core survived the potential 12V spike.
Holy crap! Even the "dangerzones" looked small, it was packed with traces. Very impressive repair. A very nice board indeed. Back in the days i had a Soyo S370 Board. But the lower right corner, around one hole for stand offs was damaged and a small piece fell off. After that the board was dead because some important traces must have been there.
LOL :) I was shouting at the video "Wrong trace!" and a few seconds later, it appeared on the screen :-D Anyway, congratulations for bringing another board back to life ;) I'm so happy to see this venerable old hardware restored, and actually I'm taking much inspiration from you in similar endeavours, though at a much smaller scale (so far) :)
nice job on the repair. it was lucky it didnt mess up the other layers. ultraviolet activated epoxy is nice. i wonder if mixing fiberglass dust with super glue would give it more strength than the baking soda.
I like taking enamel wire from old inductors to repair traces. Some have very small wire. The best part is the the have an enamel coating so won't short out. All you need to do is burn off coating with iron until solder sticks. Find some small inductors and cut the bottom, you will have a whole spool of enamel wire.
Regarding your question at the end; I am partial to the TUV4X myself, supports the last word in P3 the Tualatin 1.4GHz part with the larger cache. As I am sure you know, these systems remained competitive well into the P4 era. Thank you for another very enjoyable repair!
I loved your repair technique, at first I thought you were going to put tape on the chipped part and fill it with something like uv resin or just uv mask for board repairs
in situations like this i always wonder how much do we actually know about what goes where and how much is a pure guessing game also before i knew wbout existence of uv solder masks i was using 2 part epoxy glue mixed with acetone to either build a mask layer or soaking in pieces of toilet paper as a replacement pcb substrate, i even glued circuit boards broken in half using this method, but only single and 2 layer ones
Awesome video as always! Might I suggest "Engineer PTN-01 Titanium Tweezers" for your replacement tweezers? They are made from titanium so solder doesn't stick to them and they are super fine and very strong. They are also made in Japan. I love them. As for your baking soda and superglue patch, that works just fine. but you can also use some epoxy resin for that task as well.
very nice repair and board. i still have my first PIII 500MHz Slot 1 CPU and the intel RC440BX ATX board, based on the 440BX with the Riva 128/128Z onboard GPU and the Creative SB 64V sound chip. very rudimentary BIOS but i like it so much. the weird thing is that with the battery in place, it doesn't start, with the battery off, it starts :)) so happy my mom didn't recycle or sold the PC, even the case i still have it
You've done a solid work on repairing this CUBX-E. This was a very well known motherboard and it represents its era nicely. I've fixed 2 of them in the past, one had a broken traces cause of the million back scratches, a second one had a dead SuperIO chip. Glad it came to the right hands. And it is highly pleasurable to see a work done right, your content is amazing. 😀
You should use a thinner wire for those traces, it would be much easier to work with. Incredible repair anyway! You have improved a lot in your skills! 😊
Indeed. My favourite board at the time. It was in an overclocked and custom water-cooled rig. Memory is fading but I think it also had a thermo-electric Peltier device in there too. I can’t remember the cpu and it’s clock speed. I still have the board and plan to build system around it soon.
The 440BX is an absolutely _classic_ chipset, so much so that it's still regularly the target used for emulated platforms in virtual machines, owing to its broad compatibility.
Awesome work, perfect video. And some words about Tualatins btw... My practice and my own work with such processors says some chipsets for Pentium III seem not working at its full speed, and usually that are non-Intel chipsets. I have a good case of installing Celeron Tualatin via Slocket instead of Pentium II slot 1 here in MOW, after ROM.by bios update, and it became to work like a jet fighter. The same time I have an opposite example (Asus TUSL2C) with Pentium III 133 Tualatin - slow and poor. Perhaps this is a BIOS version issue...
If I ever need brain surgery, I would like you to do it. Please also check datalines, I think something is wired incorrectly at the factory :) Anyway, very nice work! I often wondered if populating the empty capacitor spots on a mainbord makes any difference when pushing the board to the limit. Does it help in minimizing ripple / maximizing stability in any other way? Do you no longer need a stable power supply when populated? Perhaps interesting stuff for a follow up video.
Socket 370 was such an incredible overclocking platform. I used to have a Celeron 667Mhz, easily running at 1050Mhz. Unfortunately I got rid of that system, because I am sure it was capable of doing even more on a better motherboard.
I once had (in 1998) an OCed Celeron 533 OC'ed and stable at 850Mhz. Celerons of the S370 era were OC mad houses. shame to see CPUs of today's generation either locked or they can only OC around 150mhz higher than their OTB specs. without mad cooling requirements like LN2.
I do not know if it is better or not, but back in early 2000s i used an Asus TUSL2-C Mainboard with i815ep chipset. I really want to know how it compares with other ones.
very nice board and very nice repair. i still have my p3b-f with a socket 370 adapter and a p3 933mhz paired with a geforce 256. it's an absolute beast.
I had the P2B-F as my main box, then traded up to a fully populated CUSL2 Dlx. I later inherited a P3B F1 which I still have. All of them were excellent performers. Though that P3B is an absolute rocket.
The baking soda trick is nice, but if you ever need to redo the joints the kraze glue is literal poison. I know that because I work fixing phones, and I've had phones that the owner tried to "Jerry rig" with that stuff. I recomend use some UV Mask instead for a more "Pro" result. Great video nevertheless.
Just a small question regarding the baking soda + superglue - isn't baking soda going to be corrosive to the surrounding areas long term? Or does reaction with superglue create a completely inert non-reactive compound?
its brother was the Asus CUSL2 with the 815EP chipset, I had the black perl Edition it was rare and its very rare now so if you see them grab them restore, i went for these boards as i was sad when all the PIII back then including many of the PII had integrated Audio now while some not bad i always had creative labs card of some sort. I really loved these boards. now days its copy and past and they hide somethings as well.
I suggest doing some testing with superglue acelerator in spray. It hardenes instantly the superglue, but keeping it transparent. Is amazing, as the result is still rock hard, but it looks very tidy, as the hardened part is indistinguisible from the wet superglue. No idea how it performs with stressed parts. This is not necessarily a replacement but could be a great card to have in the toolbox. Just a gente breeze of spray (leaving some mist around the part) does the trick. Another one for superglue I recently found was using cotton instead of baking soda. I use makeup cleaning pads, as you can cut thin squares pretty flat and easy to work with. For example gluing a side you can bent them to create supports, etc. It is also not a replacement but an extra option. Cigarrete filters seem to also do the same, but I haven´t tested. Anyway, as always, an absolute joy to wach, and that music of Povedeniya is just magical. Thanks!
The white silkscreen seems to be there for protection. When you install a card, the bracket tang can cause some damage, and a layer of paint doubles the scratch resistance. I can see why they haven't felt the need to do this across the bottom of the board, since the very edge of the board is clear of traces, but why not near the AGP slot? I think they forgot.
Yea, TUSL2 is also a great board, but supports only 512MB RAM and it has no ISA slots. The RAM is not a real issue and 512MB would be more than sufficient for Windows 98, but missing ISA slot in a retro machine is a bummer.
Currently testing a pii-350, 440bx now. I’ll soon post my tests on Vogons, but using FASTVID some PCI & AGP cards show remarkable improvements, and others none. YMMV 😎
Suggestion for you for PCB damage mending, use acrylic epoxy resin in combination with colored dye for a good looking Mend. Also they do make trace kits for trace repair and would look very well done in the end.
I've had this board and unfortunately for me it was awful. It was very unstable, every single slot on the board was loosing contact upon swapping components... In my opinion TUSL2-C is way better, but no ISA slot tho. Anyway, great video! It's very impressive that you've been able to resurrect it :)
For that generation, I bought a PIII 700e SLACR stepping. They'd all hit 933mhz. Huge performance boost and one of the legendary OC'ing chips of history. I also ran a BX board, I think it was a SOYO however? Not sure about that stepping. I just remember it sounding like a slacker...heh
If you have a well ventilated area to work in and an appropriate vapour mask, using fiberglass resin to replace missing areas of a PCB is the most permanent where bare traces are concerned. The alkaline nature of baking soda will eventually damage the metal.
A bit of two-part epoxy would be a much stronger brace for that sort of thing, imho. (Plus, if you really wanted to, you could mix in some green nail polish with it)
I had a CU-BX(E) model; I must've owned that thing for 3 years? Got it new, and when I finally sold the system it was really tricked out. SCSI2 CDR/RW and CD-ROM (buffer underruns? What are those? LOL), don't recall the graphics card I had. But I had a gigabyte of RAM on that board, and a 750mhz P3.
i am runing my 1,4G Tualatin on MSI 815EPT PRO V5 had some issues with artifacts in games but problem solved bad cap near agp slot replaced so happy now🥰
Fantastic video as always. Love the new music as well! 2 question: What guage wire did you use for the trace repair, and what soldering iron do you regularly use? Sorry if these questions have been answered elsewhere. I would love to know though. Also is the angled tip preference or does it just do this type of repair better? Thanks a lot.
Thanks. The wire is AWG30 and the angled tip is thinner on the very end, that's why I sometimes use it. It needs some practice though to use a thin tip, because it's hard to get the heat to the right spot. Wider tips have better heat distribution, but also are a bit more clunky.
late model bx chipset boards always command a premium these days. My bx board of choice is asus p2b, but a newer revision with updated voltage regulator so it supports coppermine voltages.
I have a couple CUSL2-Cs and TUSL2-Cs. I also have an TR-DLS dual Tualatin server board. Such sweet stuff. Too bad ASUS let itself become a corporate money grubber.
off the top of my head I can't think of any S370 440BX boards that were better than Asus' CUBX boards. maybe close competitors were other BX chipset boards but the Asus CUBX was by far the best Gaming MB of the era.
I always wanted to build a top Tualatin system using that board but either no boards or no adapters avaialble. We have only TUSL2-C 815 chipset of TUSL2-C supports only 512mb of RAM and sucks in overclocking. But I had no other option and built a system using that. It makes retro gaming so much limited. Like a huge "no go" sign over all games starting from 2004
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One of the more eye opening things for me about watching TH-cam channels like yours is that repairs such as this are possible, I went through most of my geek life thinking PCB damage usually meant death for any component.
If you watch Tony at Northwestrepair do this type of repair on modern GPUs it is crazy especially when theres 12+ layers involved.
That makes sense though. A modern 12 layer board on a GPU is worth something. This old Asus board, even maxxed out would be beat by a Raspberry Pi. That is not to say that the skills employed aren't useful... This is just messing around with old tech for the sake of it.
Check out GadgetUK if you want to see some insanely damaged and corroded "scrap boards" restored and repaired.
All that board archaeology, then still bad IDE. Good it was just a bridged resistor pack. Thank goodness only 4 layer, very nice repair for very nice 440BX.
Mind blowing! I would call it mad skills in extreme surgery.
Neurosurgeon for an old hardware.
Modern motherboards have much more than just 6 layers. It's amazing you can even fix anything with inner layers.
@@monad_tcp It is my understanding that full sized ATX motherboards usually have 4-6 layers still, actually. It gets way too expensive to get more layers on a board that big so they try very very hard to keep it at no more than 6. I do know that in some products they can use 12 or 14 layers, but I don't think any $100 motherboard has that.
@@monad_tcp Not really. A lot of value motherboards still use a 4 PCB layer construction. The higher end motherboards used 6-8 layer construction. This was the case when you compared a Gigabyte 'Durable' series to an 'Ultra Durable' series.
@@ABRetroCollections Well - My Asrock X670E Steel Legend has 8 layers and is considered a medium series motherboard, but even the higher versions (Tachi) motherboards won't go above 8 layer, so I think you are spot on.
As a viewer, the repair seems manageable until the second the GIGANTIC, ENORMOUS soldering iron tip comes into view and shows how freaking small these traces are. Well done!
I had a CUBX back in the day and loved that board. Today I own an Abit BX133 RAID with a Pentium III Tualatin 1400. That thing is a beast.
I've never seen a multi-level board repair before. I didn't know anyone even attempted such a feat. Kudos.
Incredible skill. Never seen anybody do a repair like this.
This is really next level repair!
I like how you do repairs with what you can find, rather than having all the "proper" stuff. It still gets great results
Coincidentally several years back I broke the edge of a perf board when cutting it for some projects. I did the same fix with super glue, but used pcb saw dusts instead. When everything was fixed up, couldn't even visibly tell it was broken before.
I actually didn't know the grey was a bug! I always just assumed my crappy screen was being crappy as usual. Also, thanks to videos like this, I have now gotten into microsoldering, saved several badly damaged boards (torn off ic pins, lightning damage), and will start fixing my rtx4080 this weekend, after it randomly let the smoke out of a Vcore power stage last saturday. Let's hope the core survived the potential 12V spike.
Didn't expect to see baking soda in a PCB repair.
Awesome job!
Man, not even MikeTech would work on this, very fantastic repair, congrats on bringing another mobo back to life
You seem to know that I hold Pentium II and III in high esteem.
This is truly great.
Yup, that's some fine looking soldering... WHY DOESN'T MINE LOOK LIKE THAT?!?
Holy crap! Even the "dangerzones" looked small, it was packed with traces. Very impressive repair. A very nice board indeed. Back in the days i had a Soyo S370 Board. But the lower right corner, around one hole for stand offs was damaged and a small piece fell off. After that the board was dead because some important traces must have been there.
I also had a Soyo board but that was a Slot type board with an adapter for socket 370, fond memorys of that pc.
Unbelievable how much damage can still be repaired.
LOL :) I was shouting at the video "Wrong trace!" and a few seconds later, it appeared on the screen :-D
Anyway, congratulations for bringing another board back to life ;) I'm so happy to see this venerable old hardware restored, and actually I'm taking much inspiration from you in similar endeavours, though at a much smaller scale (so far) :)
Hands down, one of the best motherboard repairs I've ever seen. Great stuff, thanks for sharing 😁
that break in thwe board you fixed was pretty nuts at first I thought that was unfixible, I stand corrected good job mate.
This soldering is art!
Thats what I call "board level repair" :)
nice job on the repair. it was lucky it didnt mess up the other layers. ultraviolet activated epoxy is nice. i wonder if mixing fiberglass dust with super glue would give it more strength than the baking soda.
Such a classic! Ballsy effort mate!
I like taking enamel wire from old inductors to repair traces. Some have very small wire. The best part is the the have an enamel coating so won't short out. All you need to do is burn off coating with iron until solder sticks. Find some small inductors and cut the bottom, you will have a whole spool of enamel wire.
Regarding your question at the end; I am partial to the TUV4X myself, supports the last word in P3 the Tualatin 1.4GHz part with the larger cache. As I am sure you know, these systems remained competitive well into the P4 era. Thank you for another very enjoyable repair!
This is beautiful, I love old hardware
I loved your repair technique, at first I thought you were going to put tape on the chipped part and fill it with something like uv resin or just uv mask for board repairs
Amazing work, I hope to have this kind of skill some day. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Thatk you so much for keeping full repair process. As a DIY / repair / hack doer I appreciate seeing the process and not only money shots.
this is so good to watch, nice
Another fantastic repair! Love the Pentium III era, so another one is saved for now ;) Thanks for sharing your knowledge, really appreciated!
Excelente vídeo, muito boas as musicas também! Parabéns pelo reparo da magnifica placa mãe. Um abraço do Brasil!
Minimum Requirements For Windows 8 Developer Preview Are:
1GB Of SDRAM
1GHz Intel Pentium /// Or Celeron
I'd love to see a video of this board getting the socket mod to support Tualatin chips
Nice video! I still have an Asus CUSL2 with the i815 chipset. I remember it was slightly faster than 440BX in benchmarks
awesome rescue!
great repair.. cheers
Well done Necroware, clean repair. I approve
Impressive repair talents, absolutely love watching you with your skills ❤
Totally amazing repair!!
Wonderful work!!! Keep up the amazing repairs!
in situations like this i always wonder how much do we actually know about what goes where and how much is a pure guessing game
also before i knew wbout existence of uv solder masks i was using 2 part epoxy glue mixed with acetone to either build a mask layer or soaking in pieces of toilet paper as a replacement pcb substrate, i even glued circuit boards broken in half using this method, but only single and 2 layer ones
Awesome video as always! Might I suggest "Engineer PTN-01 Titanium Tweezers" for your replacement tweezers? They are made from titanium so solder doesn't stick to them and they are super fine and very strong. They are also made in Japan. I love them. As for your baking soda and superglue patch, that works just fine. but you can also use some epoxy resin for that task as well.
Thank you. Those titanium tweezers are the second ones which you see in the video after I tried to use my usual steel ones in the beginning.
@@necro_ware Awesome! it's hard to tell under a microscope! LOL.
Wait, there is a VBIOS fix for the black level on S3 cards? And I learn this after 25 years? Thank you!!
Meanwhile most channels would've thrown away this otherwise perfectly fine board in the trash. Shame. You did excellent work.
Very impressive!
very nice repair and board. i still have my first PIII 500MHz Slot 1 CPU and the intel RC440BX ATX board, based on the 440BX with the Riva 128/128Z onboard GPU and the Creative SB 64V sound chip. very rudimentary BIOS but i like it so much. the weird thing is that with the battery in place, it doesn't start, with the battery off, it starts :)) so happy my mom didn't recycle or sold the PC, even the case i still have it
You've done a solid work on repairing this CUBX-E. This was a very well known motherboard and it represents its era nicely. I've fixed 2 of them in the past, one had a broken traces cause of the million back scratches, a second one had a dead SuperIO chip. Glad it came to the right hands. And it is highly pleasurable to see a work done right, your content is amazing. 😀
You should use a thinner wire for those traces, it would be much easier to work with. Incredible repair anyway! You have improved a lot in your skills! 😊
Awesome job once again. Repairs like this are always interesting to watch.
Ah I remember that board well. I had one back 25 odd years ago... Loved the BX chipset
Same, she was a nice board!
Indeed. My favourite board at the time. It was in an overclocked and custom water-cooled rig. Memory is fading but I think it also had a thermo-electric Peltier device in there too. I can’t remember the cpu and it’s clock speed. I still have the board and plan to build system around it soon.
The 440BX is an absolutely _classic_ chipset, so much so that it's still regularly the target used for emulated platforms in virtual machines, owing to its broad compatibility.
Great video! Thanks!
Awesome work, perfect video. And some words about Tualatins btw... My practice and my own work with such processors says some chipsets for Pentium III seem not working at its full speed, and usually that are non-Intel chipsets. I have a good case of installing Celeron Tualatin via Slocket instead of Pentium II slot 1 here in MOW, after ROM.by bios update, and it became to work like a jet fighter. The same time I have an opposite example (Asus TUSL2C) with Pentium III 133 Tualatin - slow and poor. Perhaps this is a BIOS version issue...
Damn fine work! What kind of wire did you use to fix those traces?
I love gour videos so much
A neuro surgeon has nothing on you
good job!!
Impresive work with such carnage!
Отличный некровар!
super video sir 👍
If I ever need brain surgery, I would like you to do it. Please also check datalines, I think something is wired incorrectly at the factory :)
Anyway, very nice work!
I often wondered if populating the empty capacitor spots on a mainbord makes any difference when pushing the board to the limit. Does it help in minimizing ripple / maximizing stability in any other way? Do you no longer need a stable power supply when populated? Perhaps interesting stuff for a follow up video.
I was wondering if you were going to fill that gap somehow. Glad to see you did, it'd have driven me crazy otherwise. Great job!
Socket 370 was such an incredible overclocking platform.
I used to have a Celeron 667Mhz, easily running at 1050Mhz.
Unfortunately I got rid of that system, because I am sure it was capable of doing even more on a better motherboard.
I once had (in 1998) an OCed Celeron 533 OC'ed and stable at 850Mhz. Celerons of the S370 era were OC mad houses. shame to see CPUs of today's generation either locked or they can only OC around 150mhz higher than their OTB specs. without mad cooling requirements like LN2.
I do not know if it is better or not, but back in early 2000s i used an Asus TUSL2-C Mainboard with i815ep chipset. I really want to know how it compares with other ones.
You truly brought a piece of necroware to life.
very nice board and very nice repair.
i still have my p3b-f with a socket 370 adapter and a p3 933mhz paired with a geforce 256. it's an absolute beast.
I had the P2B-F as my main box, then traded up to a fully populated CUSL2 Dlx. I later inherited a P3B F1 which I still have. All of them were excellent performers. Though that P3B is an absolute rocket.
Thank you! Wonderful job! Please tell me what type of wire you used to fix the traces?
I believe what you see in this video is AWG32
The baking soda trick is nice, but if you ever need to redo the joints the kraze glue is literal poison. I know that because I work fixing phones, and I've had phones that the owner tried to "Jerry rig" with that stuff. I recomend use some UV Mask instead for a more "Pro" result. Great video nevertheless.
Master-class repair.
Well done!
Just a small question regarding the baking soda + superglue - isn't baking soda going to be corrosive to the surrounding areas long term? Or does reaction with superglue create a completely inert non-reactive compound?
its brother was the Asus CUSL2 with the 815EP chipset, I had the black perl Edition it was rare and its very rare now so if you see them grab them restore, i went for these boards as i was sad when all the PIII back then including many of the PII had integrated Audio now while some not bad i always had creative labs card of some sort. I really loved these boards. now days its copy and past and they hide somethings as well.
You are a hero.
I suggest doing some testing with superglue acelerator in spray. It hardenes instantly the superglue, but keeping it transparent. Is amazing, as the result is still rock hard, but it looks very tidy, as the hardened part is indistinguisible from the wet superglue. No idea how it performs with stressed parts. This is not necessarily a replacement but could be a great card to have in the toolbox. Just a gente breeze of spray (leaving some mist around the part) does the trick.
Another one for superglue I recently found was using cotton instead of baking soda. I use makeup cleaning pads, as you can cut thin squares pretty flat and easy to work with. For example gluing a side you can bent them to create supports, etc. It is also not a replacement but an extra option. Cigarrete filters seem to also do the same, but I haven´t tested.
Anyway, as always, an absolute joy to wach, and that music of Povedeniya is just magical. Thanks!
The white silkscreen seems to be there for protection. When you install a card, the bracket tang can cause some damage, and a layer of paint doubles the scratch resistance. I can see why they haven't felt the need to do this across the bottom of the board, since the very edge of the board is clear of traces, but why not near the AGP slot? I think they forgot.
❤❤❤❤
You repaired my old CUBX-E.
I am very courios about the Intel Board 😋
Great repair as always. Those traces are very small...
Asus TUSL2-C (with Tualatin support) is my favourite socket 370 board.
Yea, TUSL2 is also a great board, but supports only 512MB RAM and it has no ISA slots. The RAM is not a real issue and 512MB would be more than sufficient for Windows 98, but missing ISA slot in a retro machine is a bummer.
Ouch, nasty. Great bit of repair work.
Currently testing a pii-350, 440bx now.
I’ll soon post my tests on Vogons, but using FASTVID some PCI & AGP cards show remarkable improvements, and others none.
YMMV 😎
Suggestion for you for PCB damage mending, use acrylic epoxy resin in combination with colored dye for a good looking Mend. Also they do make trace kits for trace repair and would look very well done in the end.
I've had this board and unfortunately for me it was awful. It was very unstable, every single slot on the board was loosing contact upon swapping components... In my opinion TUSL2-C is way better, but no ISA slot tho. Anyway, great video! It's very impressive that you've been able to resurrect it :)
Absolutely -- TUSL2-C gang. I mean, 440BX for a Pentium III? Naw, yeah, nah mate. That's a PII chipset. Get that outta here. :-D
@@nickwallette6201 Exactely! P2 and P3 Katmai team up great with BX, but CuMine is kinda stretched
Nice job!
Nice!
For that generation, I bought a PIII 700e SLACR stepping. They'd all hit 933mhz. Huge performance boost and one of the legendary OC'ing chips of history. I also ran a BX board, I think it was a SOYO however?
Not sure about that stepping. I just remember it sounding like a slacker...heh
If you have a well ventilated area to work in and an appropriate vapour mask, using fiberglass resin to replace missing areas of a PCB is the most permanent where bare traces are concerned. The alkaline nature of baking soda will eventually damage the metal.
beautiful
A bit of two-part epoxy would be a much stronger brace for that sort of thing, imho.
(Plus, if you really wanted to, you could mix in some green nail polish with it)
I have this board. It is pretty good. Can be used with Tualatin with some kind of adapter.
New video, time to finish it up
I had a CU-BX(E) model; I must've owned that thing for 3 years? Got it new, and when I finally sold the system it was really tricked out. SCSI2 CDR/RW and CD-ROM (buffer underruns? What are those? LOL), don't recall the graphics card I had. But I had a gigabyte of RAM on that board, and a 750mhz P3.
i am runing my 1,4G Tualatin on MSI 815EPT PRO V5 had some issues with artifacts in games but problem solved bad cap near agp slot replaced so happy now🥰
Check the Asus chip on the bottom-right, I believe the two legs on the top-right are shorted.
Very nice work.
Now can we see this board really flex its muscles?
Will probably need a fan on the northbridge too lol
Fantastic video as always. Love the new music as well! 2 question: What guage wire did you use for the trace repair, and what soldering iron do you regularly use? Sorry if these questions have been answered elsewhere. I would love to know though. Also is the angled tip preference or does it just do this type of repair better? Thanks a lot.
Thanks. The wire is AWG30 and the angled tip is thinner on the very end, that's why I sometimes use it. It needs some practice though to use a thin tip, because it's hard to get the heat to the right spot. Wider tips have better heat distribution, but also are a bit more clunky.
Thanks for this rescue! (BTW I need a microscope ...)
late model bx chipset boards always command a premium these days. My bx board of choice is asus p2b, but a newer revision with updated voltage regulator so it supports coppermine voltages.
I have a couple CUSL2-Cs and TUSL2-Cs. I also have an TR-DLS dual Tualatin server board. Such sweet stuff. Too bad ASUS let itself become a corporate money grubber.
off the top of my head I can't think of any S370 440BX boards that were better than Asus' CUBX boards. maybe close competitors were other BX chipset boards but the Asus CUBX was by far the best Gaming MB of the era.
I always wanted to build a top Tualatin system using that board but either no boards or no adapters avaialble.
We have only TUSL2-C
815 chipset of TUSL2-C supports only 512mb of RAM and sucks in overclocking. But I had no other option and built a system using that. It makes retro gaming so much limited. Like a huge "no go" sign over all games starting from 2004