Nice of you to be honest about this! I have seen so many videos where non 2K primer and paint has been used on bike builds. It is just not durable enough for a motorcycle. 2K is absolutely the way to go, and etch or epoxy primer on bare metal. It will be expensive to buy 2K paint on rattle cans on the long run, and well - you are putting a lot of effort into your build so you should consider getting an air compressor (if you do not have one) and a paint gun :-)
2 steps forward & 'Eight' back eh mate!! I 100% feel your frustrations... I'm sure it won't stop you though. And I like to think, we always learn something from these times. 😉🏴🤘🙏
Hey Ben, Look into SprayMax paints, I can totally recommend those. Painted my engine covers with 2k primer and 2k clearcoat from them, so far so good. It’s been holding up really well against the fuel sprays when removing the tank...😊 they’re resistant to fuel/oils and heat resistant up to 125 celsius. Cheers
Ive just had the same with pj1 engine paint today, pissed off is an understatement. Spent the day fixing it. Intention always was to get it powder coated as this is a temp measure because its now on the road and I don't want it in pieces for the good weather.
That's very dissappointing. Especially as i have done my block in the vht primer, barrell paint & clear. Took me 6 weeks to prep the block. No sign of deterioration yet but my 2k rattle can painted swingarm, gearbox and final drive are on a different level on durability and appearance.
I just painted my covers, alternator and a few more things with VHT. I followed everything to the letter and even baked all parts for 1 hour at 90 degrees. This paint is even worse than you tell it is. It falls right off and even rubbing it makes it go dull. I'm really disappointed in this paint and I'm also saying this once. DON'T BUY VHT PAINT, IT IS UTTER CRAP!
Yes brother I don’t post much but still watching 😁. My heart sinks for u, I’ve just sprayed my engine with vht we did speak before about it and u said not that impressed but I got it anyhow and used it.I found it layered beautifully and impressed with the end result but yeah it does peel easy putting my starter on and knocked the case it peeled easy but it’s under it so not too bad reason I used it 1. The body shop we use for the lorries in work I work in the vmu department and there reputable boys highly recommended it 2. I spoke to frost who I bought it from very helpful And they both said be careful really careful rebuilding the bike and u must bake it or run the engine to heat and cure the paint or it be worth jack shit . I feel u brother mix emotions hurt anger. I also am using 2k on everything I got is down to the body shop supplying it for a favour tbh. I got my garage to 24 degrees before I sprayed same with callipers vht red made a difference 👍 still loving the vids chin up 👍👊 if your looking for pistons for callipers put the size in the eBay search bar not the bike model I’m doing a complete rebuild on them I got seal kits and 5 pistons £100
Terrible about the paint being ruined. It is possible to get access to the radiator fill tube without removing the tank, if the supply and return hoses on the tank are long enough to allow the tank to be slid to the side. If you need to remove the tank, let the tank sit for several minutes if you've recently pressurised the fuel system (i.e. cranked the engine or run it). That will allow the pressure to dissipate significantly. When removing the hoses, don't just yank them straight off. Twist them slowly off the spigot while wrapped in a rag and, as the end begins to come free, expose one side. Any pressurised fuel will be released into the cloth and not spilt onto the engine.
Great advice, I have now cut longer hoses so I can do this. I wanted to find some quick disconnect fittings but I'm having no luck finding anything small enough to be descrete.
Deep down, I have a feeling that K bikes just don't enjoy being too nice and showroomie. I think they down on a atomic level want's to look greasy, scuffy and all round rough, through and through! :-)
@@Eight20 Any acid etch is fine for engine head and block. Normal paint is good for 200c Your fan and thermostat keeps the block under 120c. You only really need VHT on exhaust pipes. I use simoniz tough paint satin black. Great finish and chip resistant. Watch dell boys last video. He paints his cam cover in the same paint. really is a top paint product.
@@Eight20 I always prime most things before top coat, just works better, especially aluminium. Pretty much all decent 2k primers and top coats are fine with engine heat. And these days it doesn't have to be acid etch, you can get 2K epoxy primers that can go straight to properly prepped alloy. Good luck sorting it, when it comes time to paint mine properly I will be going with 2k primer and 2k satin top coat. Nothing worse than petrol ruining your finish.
Hey man. I got some matt black from Motip that i am going to try out on mine. It says not to prime and bake the paint on. I am curious on why VHT writes that you should prime. And also now nervous if i should prime or not. Because im thinking that the primer would weaken the bonding between the engine paint and the metal. Any advise on it?
Nice of you to be honest about this! I have seen so many videos where non 2K primer and paint has been used on bike builds. It is just not durable enough for a motorcycle. 2K is absolutely the way to go, and etch or epoxy primer on bare metal. It will be expensive to buy 2K paint on rattle cans on the long run, and well - you are putting a lot of effort into your build so you should consider getting an air compressor (if you do not have one) and a paint gun :-)
100% agree buddy, luckily I do have a compressor.
2 steps forward & 'Eight' back eh mate!! I 100% feel your frustrations... I'm sure it won't stop you though. And I like to think, we always learn something from these times. 😉🏴🤘🙏
I have a K100 and am about to start the painting, really glad I watched your Video but sorry for your pain
Good video mate. One step forward, two back.
Hey Ben,
Look into SprayMax paints, I can totally recommend those. Painted my engine covers with 2k primer and 2k clearcoat from them, so far so good. It’s been holding up really well against the fuel sprays when removing the tank...😊 they’re resistant to fuel/oils and heat resistant up to 125 celsius.
Cheers
Nice one, cheers dude!
Thats such a disappointment, crazy that paint, that does suck. Set backs are never welcomed events. Im sure you'll have her back in form soon.
Ive just had the same with pj1 engine paint today, pissed off is an understatement. Spent the day fixing it. Intention always was to get it powder coated as this is a temp measure because its now on the road and I don't want it in pieces for the good weather.
Shame that pal .honestly i apreciate and starting a project good information to know
I was on the fence about applying a clear coat to my engine, but now my mind is made up! I used a ceramic paint and so far so good 🤞🏻
Few your pain with the engine paint man. Agree with 2k paint, heading that route for my engine etc, pretty sure you get them in rattle cans.
Yeah eastwood sell a 2k paint I might try.
That's very dissappointing. Especially as i have done my block in the vht primer, barrell paint & clear. Took me 6 weeks to prep the block. No sign of deterioration yet but my 2k rattle can painted swingarm, gearbox and final drive are on a different level on durability and appearance.
Same thing happend to me. Spilled fuel all over my engine covers and they look shit now...
Ah mate, I feel for you.
I just painted my covers, alternator and a few more things with VHT. I followed everything to the letter and even baked all parts for 1 hour at 90 degrees. This paint is even worse than you tell it is. It falls right off and even rubbing it makes it go dull. I'm really disappointed in this paint and I'm also saying this once. DON'T BUY VHT PAINT, IT IS UTTER CRAP!
Yes! 100% agree
Yes brother I don’t post much but still watching 😁.
My heart sinks for u, I’ve just sprayed my engine with vht we did speak before about it and u said not that impressed but I got it anyhow and used it.I found it layered beautifully and impressed with the end result but yeah it does peel easy putting my starter on and knocked the case it peeled easy but it’s under it so not too bad reason I used it
1. The body shop we use for the lorries in work I work in the vmu department and there reputable boys highly recommended it
2. I spoke to frost who I bought it from very helpful
And they both said be careful really careful rebuilding the bike and u must bake it or run the engine to heat and cure the paint or it be worth jack shit . I feel u brother mix emotions hurt anger. I also am using 2k on everything I got is down to the body shop supplying it for a favour tbh. I got my garage to 24 degrees before I sprayed same with callipers vht red made a difference 👍 still loving the vids chin up 👍👊 if your looking for pistons for callipers put the size in the eBay search bar not the bike model I’m doing a complete rebuild on them I got seal kits and 5 pistons £100
Terrible about the paint being ruined. It is possible to get access to the radiator fill tube without removing the tank, if the supply and return hoses on the tank are long enough to allow the tank to be slid to the side. If you need to remove the tank, let the tank sit for several minutes if you've recently pressurised the fuel system (i.e. cranked the engine or run it). That will allow the pressure to dissipate significantly. When removing the hoses, don't just yank them straight off. Twist them slowly off the spigot while wrapped in a rag and, as the end begins to come free, expose one side. Any pressurised fuel will be released into the cloth and not spilt onto the engine.
Great advice, I have now cut longer hoses so I can do this. I wanted to find some quick disconnect fittings but I'm having no luck finding anything small enough to be descrete.
Keep up the good spirit!
Gutted for you buddy... I sprayed mine to..😬👍🏻..
Deep down, I have a feeling that K bikes just don't enjoy being too nice and showroomie. I think they down on a atomic level want's to look greasy, scuffy and all round rough, through and through! :-)
You need to paint aluminium with acid etch primer first, normal primer will not stick. That is why it is peeling off.
But what acid etch primer is heat resistant?
@@Eight20 Any acid etch is fine for engine head and block. Normal paint is good for 200c Your fan and thermostat keeps the block under 120c. You only really need VHT on exhaust pipes. I use simoniz tough paint satin black. Great finish and chip resistant. Watch dell boys last video. He paints his cam cover in the same paint. really is a top paint product.
@@Eight20 I always prime most things before top coat, just works better, especially aluminium. Pretty much all decent 2k primers and top coats are fine with engine heat. And these days it doesn't have to be acid etch, you can get 2K epoxy primers that can go straight to properly prepped alloy.
Good luck sorting it, when it comes time to paint mine properly I will be going with 2k primer and 2k satin top coat. Nothing worse than petrol ruining your finish.
Im not shure wich enginepart ist out of aluminium. Alu needs a special primer.
Hey man. I got some matt black from Motip that i am going to try out on mine. It says not to prime and bake the paint on. I am curious on why VHT writes that you should prime. And also now nervous if i should prime or not. Because im thinking that the primer would weaken the bonding between the engine paint and the metal.
Any advise on it?
I would say make sure you clean everything really well and maybe look at an etch primer. Good luck
If your getting brake lines made up, custom ones are about £15 a line.
Hel custom lines