Adjustable Angle Plate Part - 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- Gday, this video I get the pretty much all the angle plate finished, I can't decide on what to do on the top plate, not sure if I should put slots or tapped holes, please leave a comment and let me know what you would do, Cheers Matty
I would do drilled and tapped holes. I believe that cutting a tee slot would induce (or relieve) stresses that would cause the top plate to bow. It would also create a weak spot in the top plate. It looks great by the way. 👍👍
Gday Jim, drilled and tapped holes are the most popular comment so far, lots have also mentioned slots will bow the top plate, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
1) I wouldn't cut the bottom plate. Doing that would reduce the rigidity of the device.
2) I'd litter the top plate with holes. Slots would reduce the rigidity.
3) If you can achieve all angles in one direction of tilt, I'd be happy with that.
4) I'd make rigidity the primary concern.
Thanks for doing these videos! Very much appreciated!!!! :)
Gday, all 4 are spot on mate, i really appreciate the feedback, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop you're most welcome!
Thanks again for sharing what you do!
Lovely piece of work Matty. Leave the base as is, make the top plate into a pallet with drilled & tapped holes thus preventing any bowing. Another idea would be to make up a couple of extended tapped caps with hex / flats to fit the 'ears' to allow you to use a socket/spanner to lock /tighten top plate, easier than just the nut set up as is.
Gday, I like the idea of longer nuts on the pivot pins, great idea, certainly be easier the using a spanner, a series of taped and reamed hole are the way to go mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Lovely angle plate, even if you shortened the base I don’t think you would get 45 degrees so I would keep the base as big as possible. What to do with the top, wait until the first project then decide.
Gday Chris, yes your right about the base plate, a lot of people have commented and it sounds like drilled and taped holes are the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Hi Matty ,
Great looking angle plate !
Leave the base as is but add two holes or slots in the middle and at the same pitch as the other mounting holes so you can spin the whole thing 90 deg on the mill table and still have 4 mounting bolts and it will let you hang it off the front or rear of the table a bit if needed .
I would use tapped holes on the top and make up a tee slotted plate that can be fitted to the top surface using the tapped holes - you have the best of both worlds then . I would also drill and tap some holes around the periphery of the top plate so you can fit a fence or fences , these can be handy when making multiple parts .
Gday Ian, I like the idea of removable tee slots, definitely will be putting more mounting holes in the base, really appreciate you sharing your thoughts mate, cheers
Matty,
I realize you've probably already completed the angle plate. My thought was drilling more holes for the cap screws, loosen, move the plate up to allow the plate to go 45 to the left. Drilling additional holes in the base plate for he "hinges" would also be an option.
Beautiful finish and craftsmanship!!!!!!
Fantastic result Matty, well done mate. That will be really useful in the workshop. Cheers, Jon
Gday Jon, hopefully it will get some use over time, don’t think it’ll wear out any time soon, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Great result Matty. Personally I would leave the base as is. For the top, I think I would decide which chucks/vices I intend to use and tap holes to match. T-slots could weaken the top.
Cheers
Andrew
Gday Andrew, I’m going to put some more mounting holes in the base to be able to fix the plate in the y axis direction and x axis direction, still undecided what to do with the top but sounds like drilled and tapped holes sounds the best option, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Beaut build Matty. +1 for tapped holes. I'd also make a stiffener for the cantelivered table that can adjust with the angle. It may feel rigid but under cutting forces it may vibrate
Gday Max, I was looking at how I can make a stiffing arm today, I haven’t tried the angle plate out yet so it’ll be interesting to see what the cutting forces do, thanks for watching mate, cheers
There's a thousand ways to make an adjustable plate Matty. This is a nice simple design. I like it. Gilles
Gday, thanks very much, sometimes simple is the best way, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Looking good, Matty.
I suggest short keys in the base for quick register in the mill T-slots. For the top I'd do a pattern of tapped holes with a few added drilled and reamed holes for alignment pins such that 30, 45, 60 and 90 degrees can be easily referenced. You could also make removable fences (like on a magnetic chuck) from which to run a sine bar for "fussy stuff". Alternatively, you could make an auxiliary pallet with the above features that registers either with pins or keys and bolts to the top plate.
I'd leave base and top plate sizes as they are until a job requires a change.
Gday Russell, that’s a brilliant idea making short keys to register in the T slots of the table, I do have more plate so I could possibly have a few different options, just a matter of swapping top plate, definitely go with the fence idea, appreciate you taking the time to give ideas mate, Cheers
All good additions. You'll never regret the T- slot keys and the reamed pin holes!
If the base and the top are mirror images, you could drill your mounting holes for the other machine in the top plate, then fixture holes for the specific fixture you'd be using on the other machine in the bottom plate. I agree no tee slots , they would reduce the rigidity. Beautiful job.
Gday, I don’t think slots are the way to go, good idea using both sides, thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
It will be a lot of work but I would be going tapped holes.
Have you thought about adding an edge fence to align the work piece square to the plate, or possibly keep some of the holes untapped to take alignment pins.
If you really want get fancy some spring loaded detents for 90,60,45, etc and some knobs to make for toolless adjusting perhaps.
Eric
Gday Eric, I think drilled and taped holes are the way to go, quite a few people have suggested making a fence which is on the to do list, the spring loaded detents has got me thinking now, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Use as is. if you need it to tilt to 45 both ways then change it then. I would make a pallet of the top. It's turned out amazing. great work Matty.
Gday Malcolm, I’m thinking I don’t need to get 45 in both directions, pallet layout is the most popular idea mate, thanks for watching, cheers
G'Day Matty, looks bloody nice there Mate!! Like others suggested, I'd go the pallet top but make your holes align with 1-2-3 or 2-4-6 blocks for easy fixturing. Tapped holes around edges for fences. Bottom plate - either cut channels or tapped holes for a pin or a key to align with the table T-slots for quick setup. Alignment pins are good for top plate 0º to 90º work alignment - different diameter pins can give you half degrees or fractions of degrees (I can explain more if needed). Catch you again soon. Stay safe and well :)
Gday, great idea aligning the holes to suit 123 blocks, I will probably end up putting alignment keys in the base to make it quicker to setup and a fence for the top plate, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Just to add, bloody love the shaper work 👍
You really need a shaper mate, trust me you won’t regret buying one…
What a nice-looking job! I would go for the pallet idea myself. I think it's best to buy an angle plate with slots already milled in it because mass production cast angle plates are normally very accurate. Only my opinion.
Gday Dermot, I honestly think if I put slots in the top plate will definitely warp, taped and reamed holes are the way to go, thanks for watching, cheers
Lovely job Matty 👍👍👍 Superb finish with that fly cutter. I wouldn't worry about getting 45 degrees in both directions, you can always turn it round. Leave the base as it is, you have good rigid support there. Technically the best solution for the top plate would be tapped holes and guide pin holes rather than slots but I guess it depends on what you want to use it for. Cheers, Alan.
Gday Alan, I think taped and reamed holes are the way to go, I don’t know why I wanted to get 45° in both directions, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Beautiful job! I think the pallet ideal would serve me best.
Bloody nice surface finish from that fly cutter!
Thanks Tristan, rigidity is the key for a good finish, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Thanks for sharing - great project.
Made my afternoon much more informative than it was headed. LOL.
All the best
Dan
Gday Dan, the video come out at the right time by the sounds of it mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
once again you have turned out something that is useful and looks bloody good
Thanks very much mate, really appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Very nice job Matty!!!
What about separating the two plates a little more to get to both 45 deg. angles, using either shims under the pivot ear mounting points or a second set of pivot holes in the base plate ears away from the base plate itself to get more separation between the two plates? And have you thought about holes in the base plate to mount it at 90 deg. to the mill table. YES, I know this isn't what was asked. 😁
Gday, thinking about it I don’t think I need to have 45° in both directions, the base will get extra holes so it can be mounted either way, I really appreciate your thoughts mate, cheers
Young Matty
There's my 2 bobs worth I went up the shed and looked at my angel plate which I got from a closing down machine shop.
Leave the base as is for rigidity and clamping force, with the width you will be able to hang it over the edge of the table for sum applications.
The faces have been drilled and tap, pined , slotted and mill for production runs.
I would tap and slot it for your next project the holes are very in the right place!
Old apprentice from wet Queensland
Gday Christopher, I received your parcel the other day and thank you very much truly appreciated, from what I’m reading in all the comments I think tapped and reamed holes are the way to go, slot may course the top plate to warp, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Pekerjaan yang bagus dan halus pak..
Gday, I’m really happy with how it has turned out so far, I enjoyed your livestream yesterday, great to see the workshop in full swing, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Great video matty, that fly cutter done a excellent job, mirror finish.
Thanks very much mate, the fly cutter is preforming well lately, the rigidity of the Cincinnati makes a big difference there, thanks for watching, cheers
Matty, Go with the pallet style with drilled and tapped holes. I think you'll get distortion if you mill slots..
Excellent work...looks great !
Gday, I think that’s the way to go, a lot of people have said the plate will warp if I put slots in, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Wow! That finish gets me every time. Looks great, I'd go with a pallet I think, depends what your gonna be milling on it I suppose 😁.
Cheers!
Gday Chris, you can get the same finish on you mill to, give it a go and experiment with you spindle speed and feed rate, you’ll get it I’m sure, thanks for watching mate, cheers
I would make the top plate a pallet with alternating tapped and reamed holes. You can then use dowel pins to align work or other fixtures and clamp using the tapped holes. I would leave the base as is for more stability.
Nice bit of machining there, Matty. I love the finish that fly cutter leaves. I'd leave it. You're still going to be limited by the height of the pivot. If you cut that bottom plate, you're still not going to get 45 degrees. Tapped holes all day long. I imagine you could find some stainless steel mesh for those drains.
Gday, afte thinking about it for a little while I don’t really need to have 45° in both directions, tapped holes are the way to go by the sounds of it mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Slots and leave it great job MATTY All the best PAUL 🍻🇦🇺
Gday Paul, I still haven’t done anything with the top yet, I’ve been a bit lazy mate, thanks for watching, cheers
The Angle Plate turned out Incredible Matty. If you shorten the Base, you may need to also cut a Angle on the underside of the Top Plate to get to 45 Degrees. As far as the Slots or Holes on the Top Plate, I don’t really know for sure. Maybe you could do both? Anyways, Great Job as always.👍 every time I watch one of your Videos, it inspires me to try and build something. I really enjoy All your Videos. You definitely deserve the Certified TH-cam Machinist designation.
Gday, after thinking about it and reading the comments I’m thinking I don’t need to tilt the table 45° both ways, I’m thinking I put taped and reamed holes in top plate and more mounting holes in the bottom plate, it’s great to hear my videos are inspiring and you enjoy what I do here, thanks for the kind words mate, truly appreciated, Cheers
This is going to be a very useful addition to your shop! Very ridgid. Definitely drilled and tapped holes.Great build videos! Thanks for your time and sharing! 👍😎✌
Gday James, I’m in the middle of making a fence for the long side atm, definitely going with reamed and tapped holes, thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
I would leave the base plate alone. Perhaps adding a bumper to the base and bottom of the upper plate so that you could use it as a sine bar would be a useful addition. Upper plate with an array of tapped holes.
Gday, I have thought about setting it up for a sign bar, I need to get a set of gauge blocks one day, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
G’day Matty what a lovely job that you did on that, really nice finish I’ve kept this in my favourites so I can make it later on. Take care John Tassie
Gday John, thanks for the kind words mate, this is really an easy build, I had no plans, just made it up as I went, thanks for watching, cheers
Great job Matty
Looks like from the indications from most, leave the base and do tapped holes👍👍👍👍👍👍👍then alter it if needed in the future
cheers
Kev
Gday Kev, it’s looking like taped holes and leave the base as is will be the way to go mate, Cheers
The ducks nuts! 🤣🤣 I'd live with the angle range just as it is. Then drill and tap lots of holes in the top face. Great project thanks for sharing.
Gday, nothing wrong with the ducks nuts mate😉, drilled and taped holes sounds like the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
hello from spain..very good job mattys
Gday, hope your going well mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Hi Matty. You mill has performed brilliantly on this project with you at the controls. Great job it'll be very useful.
I'd take Doug's advice at Metalworks Machine Shop channel and put tapped holes in it and holes for pins. Tony
Gday Tony, the Cincinnati still does a great job, it does have wear in the ways but it getting some age on it now, I think tapped holes are the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Nice work on the tilting angle plate Matty it turned out great mate 👍
Thanks very much John, should be a handy tool to have in the future, thanks for watching, cheers
G'day Matty, great stuff as always buddy, I'm thinking drilled and tapped over T slots, treat it like a posh fixture plate, stronger and more straightforward too
Gday Randy, drilled and tapped holes are the way to go by the sounds of it mate, it’s definitely an industrial angle plate that’s for sure, won’t wear it out in a hurry, thanks for watching mate, cheers
I'd join the others and advise that slots will distort the top, plus you don;t really have enough thickness in the top plate for slots. I can tell you that (many years ago) I put T slots in a 1" thick piece of quality steel and soon after the steel bowed about .375 thou across a 14" length (14" x 5" x 1"). That WAS a waste of good steel!☹ Tapped holes is the way to go.
Perhaps, if you think you may want to use a chuck on this, consider drilling any chuck mounting holes FIRST and THEN drill the pallet holes at a convenient and compatible measurement.
I'd suggest you consider installing some push in dowel pins at convenient angle (preset) 30°, 45°, 60° (if you can fit them all in 😁)
Based on my observation of your plate, even if you cut the base narrower, the top plate will not reach 45° before the top plate edge touches the mill table. You will need to make the top plate narrower too.
Contemplate putting holes in the base too. This could provide a great setup option for machining the occasional "weird" object. (using the top plate mounting holes from the underside of the top plate.
BTW, great job on the project.
Gday, thanks for sharing the experience you had, certainly makes my mind up about putting slots in, definitely going to put more mounting holes in the base, If I was going to put a chuck on the plate it would need to be a low profile chuck, same with a vice to, something else I need to look into a buy, I like the idea of pin to setup the angle at 30°,45° & 90°, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Im glad you didn’t brake fingers great job thanks
Gday, it definitely holds well, thanks for watching and commenting, cheers
Glad I found your Channel mate, great videos and love the work you do. Keep up the great videos. 👍👍
Gday Mark, I’m glad you found my channel and I really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment, Cheers
Glad to see you using the counter bore’s Matty. Nice job. Will have to try and make one of these for myself. I believe the previous comment on slots would possibly cause stress to warp the plate. Keep the videos coming brother. Really enjoy them. Take care, be safe and may God bless you and the family.
Gday Dale, the counter bores are brilliant and I’ve used them many times, I really appreciate your generosity, very handy to have that’s for sure, I hope you are all we there mate, please take care, Cheers
Nice work Matty... I am off to watch your follow up video now...
Gday Paul, thanks mate and I really appreciate you watching, Cheers
Some slots and add a bunch of tapped holes in-between. I personally prefer holes but a slot it very useful for a standard clamps which usually dont fit any hole spacing practically. I love what you have have done and personally wouldn't worry about not getting 45 both sides, my interest would be having the table area but having said that I only work in soft materials Al etc so I can afford the leverage on the pivots. I'm going to have a go at exactly what you have done but out of Al and I want to put an adjustment screw on the plate somehow so I can adjust the angle easier at least around the zero position, maybe 20 degrees either side or just 90 on one side I don't know but I hate having to hold the plate and tighten it. I enjoy watching your work especially after you explain what you are doing and then comment "that was a lot of talk for bugger all" :)
Gday, Aluminium will be good to build one from, I still think on what to do with the top, tapped and reamed holes will be the go id say, ive been looking at how I can put an adjustment screw on as well, Cheers
Looking good . 👍
Thanks mate, cheers
Stop by your local $1 store and grab a small stainless steel filter for kitchen/bathroom sinks. Shape it to fit and "silicone"/glue it in place upside down over the drain hole at the back of your milling table.
Gday, thanks for the idea mate, I didn’t give that idea a thought, Cheers
Hi Matty…
I reckon tapped holes in top plate, and some tapped holes along the edges( for fixing reference ‘fences’), or alternatively, a set of holes foe dowel pins
Gday Robert, yes taped holes sounds like the best option, I’ll be putting reamed holes in as well for dowel pins, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
G'Day Matty, nice work and a pleasing result. I would keep the base wide to give as much stability and rigidity as you can, just plan ahead with your machining operations to orientate the plate. For me, I like the plate tilting toward so I can see what I'm doing when setting up and machining. If you have it tilting back toward the mill you may be machining blind and setting up can become awkward. I did a series of holes in the base so I can set the table at 90 degress and also side shift so it can over hang further on either end just to give some more flexibility. I went with Tee Slots to give maximum flexibility for setups. If you look at the photos, I fitted a rib underneath to stiffen the top plate up. It was quite springy when I first cut the slots but the rib it sorted that issue out and its extremely ridged. The rib also had clearance grooves at each Tee Slot location so I could slide the Tee Nuts under the rib. I also machined a recess slot under the slot so the nuts fit reasonably flush, I think it shows it on that rough drawing. I run a 10th indicator over the top each time I use it, and it is always within 1/2 thou in all directions showing I have had no flexing issues.
Cam
Gday Cam, I’ve nbeen studying you photos again and the extra plate on the underneath side is brilliant, i really appreciate your help mate, Cheers
As I was saying in the SMS message Matty. It’s a work of art and a real thing of beauty 👏. You might need to pop over and lean on it 😂
Thanks mate, turned out alright so far, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
I have two cast iron adjustable angle plates of different sizes, and neither of them fold to anywhere near 45 degrees. As long as it goes to 45 in one direction, that should do all you want.
Gday, after I looked at it for a while I realised I didn’t need to get 45° in both directions, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Thanks for sharing 👍
Appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Nice job Matty. I'd make it a pallet. Way more rigid and easy to do with a DRO.
Gday Preso, the DRO has been a god send lately, I’ve really become dependent on it now, wish I had one years ago, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, cut a bit off the back of the top plate and chamfer the underside edge of the rear of the top plate to get the angle you want, three slots in the top would be good, but probably the drilled and tapped pallet idea gives you a lot of possibilities, great project mate and the fly cut finish is awesome.
Gday, after a bit of thought I don’t really need 45° in both directions, I’m worried if I put slots in I’ll warp the top plate and loose rigidity, tapped holes might be a better plan, thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Very nice!
Good luck finding a place to store it!!
Gday Dave, I’ve got a place to store it here, just hope I don’t need it to often with w much it ways, it’s a bit on the industrial side, thanks for watching, cheers
I would go with a pallet set up and a grid of drilled and tapped holes.
Also, shorten base and maybe chamfer backside of the top to achieve 45° if possible.
Second set of holes in base to allow it to be turned 90° on the table as well.
Looks great! Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Gday Paul, I think a grid of taped and reamed holes will be the way to go, definitely going to put more holes for mounting in the base, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
If it were mine, I would do the tapped holes, IMHO slots are somewhat limiting.
On the bottom I would just add 2 more holes to line up with the center T slot but leave the plate the same size as you have it now, you could always hang it off the front and turn it 180 degrees from what it is now.
You asked :-)
Gday, ready through a lot of the comments tapped holes seem the best way to go, I will be adding more holes to the base plate to allow the angle plate to hang off the side, yes I did ask and I really appreciate you commenting, thanks for watching mate, cheers
If you want 45 in both directions drill an extra set of holes in the top plate and have the pivot in the middle. I expect someone else suggested it but there are too many comments for me to check them all.
You could also drill and ream for locating pins between the screws for easy realignment if you swap from middle pivot to the original.
Other than the above suggedtios that turned out really nice.
Gday Chris, there’s certainly a lot of comments to get through, I’ve spent quite a few hours answering them all so far, after looking at the comments and angle plate I really don’t need to be able to tilt it 45° in both directions, one ways good enough, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Beautifully engineered angle plate! While it's easy to criticise from an armchair, I would have loved to see this rotated with some sort of screw mechanism for more precision and flexibility in adjustment. Also some sort of ball or pin locking mechanism for the most used angles like 15, 20, 30 and 45 degrees?
Gday, having a mechanism to rotate the table is a great idea, not sure how I’d do it but worth thinking about, the table really needs locating pins for common angles, this is something I need to do, thanks for watching and commenting mate, cheers
An array of threaded holes. Maybe the central zone left plane for a chuck mount. Start onthe chuck first and then run the array. Nice project indeed !
Gday, I think I’ll need a low profile chuck just to save on Z height, I’ll be putting series of taped and reamed hole in the top plate, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
G'day Matty; I didn't read all the comments, so someone might have already suggested it...why not mill the face of the bottom plate to 45 degrees. It'd maximise the stability given by the bottom plate and give a sort of 'automatic' stop for 45 degrees. Of course you need to position the whole unit so the bottom corner of the top plate went into the t-slots of the mill bed, which might be inconvenient sometimes.
Id also probably make it a grid of holes you could even do a large grid to leave it free to add extra holes as needed
What a wonderful problem to have !!!
Thanks for watching
My vote is for dilled and tapped holes. Makes it more versatile. Also I would not cut down the base. Keep it wide for a more solid platform. If you came upon an odd job where you needed 45 degrees in both ways I would just make another smaller base.
Gday Tom, most of the comments I’ve reed so far also suggest tapped hole also reamed holes for pins, I’m thinking I really don’t need to 45° in both directions, I’ve never needed up till now anyway, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
The angle plate turned out really nice. to get 45 degrees both ways just make and taller set of vertical uprights, and I would just drill and tap holes as needed. and on the uprights you could drill and ream holes for locking pins just as secondary lock to make sure the angle can not change just a thought may be overkill. Cheers
Gday, drilling hole in the pivot is a great idea, I can use these in set it a 30, 45, 60 and 90°, nice and quick, thanks for watching mate, cheers
I'd drill and tap the top plate. You can make a sacrificial aluminum pallet that bolts to that pattern if you need a custom layout that doesn't work with the regular bolt pattern on the angle plate. I'd leave the bottom plate. 45 both ways seems like you'd have to remove too much to get there and getting to 39.73deg isn't any better than where you're at. I might consider adding a sine roll to the bottom of the upper plate, or adding doweled holes in the pivot ears at convenient angles (30-45-60). This is a project I think I will make for myself.
Gday Barry, that’s a great idea have a sacrificial plate for custom set ups, I’ve been thinking of adding a series of holes in the pivot plates for quick setups, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Matty it sure is a work of art got to be proud of that.
To make the tilt angle reach 30^ chamfer the underside edge at least you then have 60^/30^. To get 45^ can you undo the pivots, flip the plate side for side with shorter edge now facing the other way? This could be an advantage when milling.
OR Make 2 or 4 taller base Pivot plates a simple fix.
As for ways to attach I reckon 2 or 3 long slots Plasma cut? and a few holes for good measure. If some reckon slots will weaken T-slots would also?
Gday, I’m really happy with how it’s turned out so far, I’m think to set the 30°,60° and 45° I could drill and ream holes in the pivot arms and use a very neat fitting pin to lock it in place, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
my, that fly cutter makes a nice shiney surface
Gday, It does alright with cheap import inserts, thanks for watching, Cheers
Very interesting project. As someone else suggested t slots would weaken the top. I think you could make a pass with the fly cutter on the top now that it is attached to the base ,after you've indicated it at 0 degrees, in order to make it parallel to the table of the machine in case the two hinges aren't perfectly at the same height.
Gday, I’m certainly worried if I slot the top plate it will warp, tapped and reamed holes are the way to go I think, I’m going to check the table again with a different indicator just to see if I get the same reading, thanks for watching, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop I've just seen your new video where you check for parallelism and i think the result is pretty good
Keep the base the same. Consider putting additional mounting holes under the base plate to allow you to move the supports closer to the rear (as it's sitting on the machine near the end of this video) and with care you could create an automatic 45 degree angle. Just a thought - I would not reduce your contact area of your base without good reason. Drilled and tapped holes will be a lot more universal and potentially a lot more solid than two or three slots to my way of looking at it. Probably a lot less effort and stress than trying to machine T slots too. That fly cutter sure does a good job. I have to stop looking at my lathe and start setting it up properly...
Gday,, I’m definitely going to put in more mounting holes in the base and by reading all the comments tapped and reamed holes are definitely the way to go, I hope you get your lathe setup soon and I hope you enjoy it mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
That's one heck of a tablet mount😉😉😅🤣😂, but in all seriousness, it looks great sir, believe just start drilling holes and tapping them, maybe 2 different sizes, like drill alway through with ¼-20 drill tap size, and the drill half way down with some like ½-13 tap drill, way you'd have 2 different size holes to maximize uses of this amazing work!! That's just our idea of course, but make a nice video to upload 😉😉!!!
And that surface finish looks like you do have a surface grinder squirreled away somewheres 😀 😏😉, those surface grinders aren't cheap, trust we've been looking, guess we'll be making one after we get our home made from scratch lathe built, give or take a year or 3 😁
Gday, I wish I had a surface grinder hidden away in the background, there not getting any cheaper that’s for sure, thanks for the advice on the hole sizes, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Better than my bought one! It's a bit late now, but if you had the pivots in the centre of the plates you would get 45 degrees both ways. I think I would drill the top plate as required.
Gday Mark, if the pivots were in the middle I wouldn’t be able to get 90°, I think I’ll be putting taped and reamed holes in the top plate, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Mine has taped holes and a few reamed holes with pins, tee slots would be very handy, surprise us!!
Gday, I’d say it’ll have tapped and reamed holes at this stage, cheers
Nice work!
Thanks very much Adam, appreciate you watching, Cheers
If you added some more mounting holes in the top plate , you could move the plate closer to center of the pivot pins and get your 45 degrees from either side. maybe. Nonetheless, that is a nice piece of work. I vote Holes, no t-slots.
Gday, definitely be doing hole and not slots and extra mounting holes, thanks for watching and commenting, cheers
I would leave it exactly as is. The next time you need it, you can adapt whatever you want.
Gday Rustinox, I’ll probably put in taped and reamed holes at this stage, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
For me make it a pallet style for fixing. For the angle put a chamfer on the bottom so it's tilts to dead nuts 30 degrees then use the other ay to get 0 to 90. Add some stops in the base to get dead on 90
Gday, great idea adding stops adjustable stops to get the angle spot on, thanks for sharing your thoughts mate, cheers
If you wanna keep the rigidity of the full plate but just wanna drop the back past that 30 degrees you could keep the bottom plate and bevel the back edge .to drop down against the table you could also bevel the back of the top plate to sit flat against the table when tilted 👍👍👍
Gday, I’ve had a few comments suggesting the same, good food for thought mate, thanks for watching, cheers
You could use a mounting plate on the top. To fit a chuck or vice if you sloted the swivelling plate
Gday, thanks a great idea, thanks, cheers
Thanks glad you liked the idea the fixing plate only needs to be max 10mm or so all the best
Looking at your top piece, you could turn it in the horizontal plane and get your 45 degrees to the centre of the bottom plate. If you were to do this (assuming it worked) I would look at the fastening based on that option. May give you more options on the machine. Also if you are looking to put a turntable on this won't you lose too much headspace?
Enjoying your thinking as normal, good luck.
Paul
Gday Paul, after thinking about it I don’t really need to get 45° in both directions, I have to be careful what I put on the to, I’m limited to Z height, may need a low profile chuck and vice, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
If you drill and countersink more holes on bottom and top plate you can move the hinges towards the center and likely get 45 in both directions. If you cant make it perfect, make it adjustable...
Gday, good idea for more mounting holes, definitely on the list to do, thanks for watching and commenting, cheers
If you need T Slots, simply fabricate some from 12mm square bar with 32 x 8 flat bar counterbored bolted to the top. Then bolt from underneath each square bar to you nice new plate at your desired T Slot centres. That way you won't lose any strength on your plate. Fly cut the top of the flat bars to ensure the new T Slot assemblies are flat.
Gday, I think I’ll do reamed and threaded holes, you idea on how to do the T slots is really good, I could always make a second top plate and do your idea, good project for the future, thanks very much for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
I would do drilled and tapped holes as well as dowel pin holes. I think a plate made this way is more useful. My self would make one each drilled and tapped and tee slots once I get Material found thanks for the tutorial.
Gday Mike, taped and reamed holes sounds like the way to go, I’m worried if I do T slot it might warp the plate, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop The top plate with tee slots start with thicker material and machine and flat grind the stresses out of it through out the process. That is my plan. Might even build it modularly and bolt it together and finish machine and flat grind it.
@@MattysWorkshop What are the dimensions on the 4 plates with the radiuses? L x W x H and the radius. Thanks
Mornin Sir,
It seems the consensus is for a pallet and I think that makes sense.
How many 45's does one man need ? Can't see you wanting 45 each way in one set up very often.
What I'd like to see is for you to tram the plate true to the X axis of the Cincinnati and then run a dti down the X axis of the top plate at a couple of different angles to see if you have any tapering. Course if that that might make your lower lip quiver then disregard this idea.
Thanks for your vids I thoroughly enjoy them especially as your twin brother lives next door to me and he's usually good for shits and giggles .
John
Gday John, I put out another video show the angle plate mounted to the table and used an indicator to see how good it is, have a look mate, it’s not too bad really, I reed this comment earlier on today so this made me do the short video, thanks for the idea mate, cheers
No matter what you decide for the top for mounting you'll wish you did it the other way sooner or later, my inclination would be to tap a series of holes for a mini pallet first, or perhaps make a matching one with T-slots at some point. Sure looks great though.
Gday, yep your definitely right there, it will be the wrong decision somewhere along the way, I do have another piece of plate the same size so I could have the best if both worlds, thanks for the idea mate, appreciate you watching, Cheers
May be an additional support on the end of the plates would be something to consider to make it really rigid. Now all the forces are taken up in the pivot. Also having a support on the end would make it really rigid
Gday, I was looking at this today, definitely something to add to the job mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop i was thinking on how to achieve this which is not trivial. You want to support the rotating plate over a large distance and quite precisely. My guess is that you set the height with this support contraption and then lock the two hinge mechanisms.
Make the top plate slide able instead of three drilled holes. You could slide it back towards you allowing you to pivot more.
Gday, that’s not a bad idea mate, thanks,
So typical of inserts, they are bloody complicated and work really well when they do or put a hole in your pocket when they don't. I'm sure these are designed for CNC machines, high speeds and deep cuts to increase throughput. If you are a home machinist and trying to take light cuts and have all the time in the world all to often these are expensive options. So much easier than sharpening HSS but you have to change your mindset I recon.
maybe drill some extra holes in the top plate for the pivot ears , you could move it ahead to get more tilt if needed. I'm not sure what type of steel that is, but T-slots might introduce a warp so I think pallet. thanx for sharing
Gday, great idea being able to shift the top plate with extra mounting holes, I worried if I do slots it will bow, my lunch it’ll be a banana, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
On your angle question,How often will you need to swing it both 45* in one setup. I’d keep it the way you have it till you need to have it both ways. On your pallet or T Slots, I’d try to work it so you have both. Thanks for being able to look over your shoulder.
Gday Norris, I think I won’t worry about trying to get 45° in both direction, your right, how often is it needed, I think a series of drilled and tapped holes are the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
gday matty great job there mate i would drill and tap to keep the strength of the top plate to keep the rigidity for the workpiece where you get 29 degrees i would put a 16 degree bevel on the under side edge to get a 45 both ways plus it will give you 3 point contact and even more solid work support or 16 degree on the bottom plate just a thought cheers wayne
Gday Wayne, tapped holes sounds like the way to go, I’m going to give it a bit of use to see if I need 45° in both directions, I really don’t think I will at this stage, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Drill and tap holes..for my thinking..I reckon that if you put T slots you are going to weaken the plate and you will get some movement and instability at times…
Gday Gary, I’m think tapped and reamed holes is the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
I would put taped holes in it and holes for pins. It looks really good.
Gday, great idea putting holes for pins as well and taped hole, thank for watching mate, cheers
Personaly I would go with the taped holes and and drill another set of holes in the middle to move the pivot point back towards the centre and try to achieve 45 deg either way just some thing to think about but great work 👍👍
Gday, tapped holes sounds like the most popular idea, I don’t think I’ll worry about trying to get 45° in both directions after a bit of thought, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Do holes, if you do T-slots I don’t think it will stay flat. Great project, Thanks
Gday Rodney, I think your right there mate, slots will be more drama then what it’s worth, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Nice work. I would do a palet . And if you need more angle make some blocks to lift it off the pivot
Gday Joseph, I think a pallet is the way to go, thanks for watching mate, cheers
very impressive!
I think I would make 2 horizontal T-slots and 2 vertical T-slots all the way edge to edge, leaving some center space for chuck mounting holes.
Gday, I’m a bit worried about the top plate warping if I put slots in, still a bit of thinking to do yet, thanks for watching, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop yes I read other comments worrying about that.
The plate is quite beefy but it's better to think it over and over again