Hi Ade, looking good so far. I am sure it will be much more useable with this beefing up you are doing. Oh dear, I think I may have given you a complex lol..... Sorry. I was grinning every time you picked the brush up to clean the tool holders and tool post! Thanks for spreading the word though, there are plenty that will benefit from this simple bit of house keeping. Cheers, Jon
Nice one Ade . It will be interesting to see how it goes , a lip seal instead of a labyrinth seal on a spindle will create a ton of heat . I just replaced the lip seals on the output drive for the change gears & input drive from the motor on my lathe & they run way hotter than the spindle bearings . Cheers .
It's usually a good practice, if you can, when starting with a square piece like that, to knock off the corners first and make it an octagon. When I say, "if you can", that usually means having a band saw or something capable of easily doing it.
Great machining video. you come up with some good ideas, especially about the oil seals. I was not too bad at machining but I was never a good designer really. Just a fitter machinist.
You showed the threads had pulled in the casting as they had been tightened. That is why it is good engineering practice to use the clearing size for the bolt into the part by 1.5 to 2 thread pitches. This will ensure that mating parts close properly. It also makes it easier for the bolts to start as they drop into the recess before starting. Also you get a nicer break edge with a plain hole rather than a tapped hole. I believe you have the oil seal the wrong way round. The spring side is usually on the side you DON'T want to leak / keep out the dirt. Your way at present is like a funnel, the dirt has an easy path into the seal edge.
Hi Dave. Yes indeed . If you look back at some of my older video's you will see me doing that fairly often. I started doing it when making press tool die's to allow for grinding for the life of the die whilst still leaving the top thread below surface. Cheers Ade.
I trust that you are aware that grease seals are fitted back to front compared to oil seals. This is because grease needs to be able to escape past its seals if too much grease is present. Yes there are occasions when this is a bad thing & you need to allow the grease to escape in a different direction. But these are few & should only be in exceptional circumstances. Lathe front & rear bearings are better protected by a normal close fitting multi grove semi labyrinth type seal grooved into the surface of the bore of the cover plate. This should be more than adequate, with the grease filling up the gap. excess grease can extrude out through the gap & the labyrinth grooves will give it somewhere to key into. & prevent the ingress of metals.
Don’t forget your basics Ade, that square section spinning and long sleeves is an accident waiting to happen. First thing I learned in year 2 secondary school. ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES…Stay safe and lead by example !.
Hi John. Your comment does have some merit , but I am not sure that I totally agree. I think there are two schools of thought here. I will say that loose baggy sleeves or clothing for that matter, is a bad idea but I was trained in a toolroom with 20 plus long time toolmakers who wore work coats at all times .This was also the case in college. oddly they wore a shirt and tie at all times also but the tie was tucked into the jacket well. Maybe we should agree to differ . Cheers and thanks for watching . Ade.
Nice work, Ade. You'll find it's far quicker to remove the corners of square or rectangular parts using a saw or a grinder, especially if there's no real accuracy involved. Also, white gas ("Essence F" over here in frogland, it's also sold as petrol heater fuel) or white spirit are just as good for lubing cuts on aluminium as WD40, and cost about a million times less. I'd also be *very* cagey about using grease on spindle bearings. Usually you use oil, if I were doing this I'd probably use cup or drip oilers mounted on the top of the headstock. Other people have talked about not using oil seals, "old school" technique is to use labyrinth seals and / or felt rings.
I fitted seals to my mini lathe spindle and it was the worst thing I have ever done - they run super hot and the chuck got so hot I couldn’t touch it - I ended up cutting the main sealing lip out with a sharp blade leaving the wiper in place and it solved about 75% of the problem . The heat actually transferred into the work from the chuck and caused all sorts of problems getting accurate sizes - I spent a lot of time waiting for things to cool down so I could measure them accurately . It should be the other way round - the chuck should be sinking the heat from the work .
Withdraw the tool back into the tool post 1/4" or more, to give you more clearance, the shorter the toll `sticks out` the better . I always add a thin piece of packing strip above the tool to clamp upon instead of the hardened tool holder body. Take care.
Hello Ade, enjoying the project, very good looking. If I may add mt 2 cents regarding lubrication, have you considered using oil on the bearings? It lppks like you could drill a gallery on the chamfered edge of the housing and have a couple of inconspicuous oil cups, or zeros, just a thought. Congrats on the subs and cheers!
Hi Ade, thanks for another great video. I've just noticed the riveted sheet panels on your lathe, did you extend the chip tray back? Does it help? I've got some dead space behind mine...
Hi Matthew. yes I did set it back . I think I did a video on it a few years back now . It does help with more capacity for swarf to be cleared from the job . bigger area to fall away. Cheers Ade.
Yes I have, more times that I care to remember . It has been a while though . Usually on the lathe but I have had occasion to do it on the mill as well. May do some one day to show it on the channel. Cheers Ade.
Very nice job/attention to detail/matching chamfers....
Great Minds Think Alike. I have mine drawn up in Fusion360 already and a few other modifications to the headstock. Great work keep it up.
Sure ENJOYED Ade ! great work man .. I like the seal you installed, should work well ..
Hi Ade, looking good so far. I am sure it will be much more useable with this beefing up you are doing. Oh dear, I think I may have given you a complex lol..... Sorry. I was grinning every time you picked the brush up to clean the tool holders and tool post! Thanks for spreading the word though, there are plenty that will benefit from this simple bit of house keeping. Cheers, Jon
Good idea Ade. This is one I should have done on my mini lathe as well. Spindles typically have a labrynth seal rather than rather than a rubber seal.
Progressing very nicely, plenty of swarf to clean up.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Gday Ade, your doing a brilliant job on the headstock, it will definitely be better then it was new, Cheers
Nice one Ade . It will be interesting to see how it goes , a lip seal instead of a labyrinth seal on a spindle will create a ton of heat . I just replaced the lip seals on the output drive for the change gears & input drive from the motor on my lathe & they run way hotter than the spindle bearings . Cheers .
Good work Ade... I am enjoying this series...
Coming along nicely ade, excellent job. 👍
Hi Ade, You might want to remove the springs from the Lip seal to reduce drag and stop premature wear on the seal itself.
Good job Ade.
I would have moved your turning tool back in the holder before alter the 45 tool.
Great video though. Nice one
It's usually a good practice, if you can, when starting with a square piece like that, to knock off the corners first and make it an octagon. When I say, "if you can", that usually means having a band saw or something capable of easily doing it.
Great machining video. you come up with some good ideas, especially about the oil seals. I was not too bad at machining but I was never a good designer really. Just a fitter machinist.
I stopped watching this video at 7:37 then went outside to watch grass grow I found that more interesting.
Very interesting Ade.
You showed the threads had pulled in the casting as they had been tightened. That is why it is good engineering practice to use the clearing size for the bolt into the part by 1.5 to 2 thread pitches. This will ensure that mating parts close properly. It also makes it easier for the bolts to start as they drop into the recess before starting. Also you get a nicer break edge with a plain hole rather than a tapped hole. I believe you have the oil seal the wrong way round. The spring side is usually on the side you DON'T want to leak / keep out the dirt. Your way at present is like a funnel, the dirt has an easy path into the seal edge.
Hi Dave. Yes indeed . If you look back at some of my older video's you will see me doing that fairly often. I started doing it when making press tool die's to allow for grinding for the life of the die whilst still leaving the top thread below surface. Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug did you see my update about the oil seal
@@daveticehurst4191 looking now
@@ade63dug you could also use a double lipped oil seal
Very nice sir!
Nicely done!
I trust that you are aware that grease seals are fitted back to front compared to oil seals. This is because grease needs to be able to escape past its seals if too much grease is present. Yes there are occasions when this is a bad thing & you need to allow the grease to escape in a different direction. But these are few & should only be in exceptional circumstances. Lathe front & rear bearings are better protected by a normal close fitting multi grove semi labyrinth type seal grooved into the surface of the bore of the cover plate. This should be more than adequate, with the grease filling up the gap. excess grease can extrude out through the gap & the labyrinth grooves will give it somewhere to key into. & prevent the ingress of metals.
Thanks Ades
Don’t forget your basics Ade, that square section spinning and long sleeves is an accident waiting to happen. First thing I learned in year 2 secondary school. ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES…Stay safe and lead by example !.
Hi John. Your comment does have some merit , but I am not sure that I totally agree. I think there are two schools of thought here. I will say that loose baggy sleeves or clothing for that matter, is a bad idea but I was trained in a toolroom with 20 plus long time toolmakers who wore work coats at all times .This was also the case in college. oddly they wore a shirt and tie at all times also but the tie was tucked into the jacket well. Maybe we should agree to differ . Cheers and thanks for watching . Ade.
Nice work, Ade. You'll find it's far quicker to remove the corners of square or rectangular parts using a saw or a grinder, especially if there's no real accuracy involved. Also, white gas ("Essence F" over here in frogland, it's also sold as petrol heater fuel) or white spirit are just as good for lubing cuts on aluminium as WD40, and cost about a million times less.
I'd also be *very* cagey about using grease on spindle bearings. Usually you use oil, if I were doing this I'd probably use cup or drip oilers mounted on the top of the headstock.
Other people have talked about not using oil seals, "old school" technique is to use labyrinth seals and / or felt rings.
I fitted seals to my mini lathe spindle and it was the worst thing I have ever done - they run super hot and the chuck got so hot I couldn’t touch it - I ended up cutting the main sealing lip out with a sharp blade leaving the wiper in place and it solved about 75% of the problem .
The heat actually transferred into the work from the chuck and caused all sorts of problems getting accurate sizes - I spent a lot of time waiting for things to cool down so I could measure them accurately .
It should be the other way round - the chuck should be sinking the heat from the work .
Try some lube they get hot run dry and relax the bearings pressure.
Good one mate enjoyed it a lot
Withdraw the tool back into the tool post 1/4" or more, to give you more clearance, the shorter the toll `sticks out` the better . I always add a thin piece of packing strip above the tool to clamp upon instead of the hardened tool holder body. Take care.
Hello Ade, enjoying the project, very good looking. If I may add mt 2 cents regarding lubrication, have you considered using oil on the bearings? It lppks like you could drill a gallery on the chamfered edge of the housing and have a couple of inconspicuous oil cups, or zeros, just a thought. Congrats on the subs and cheers!
Hi Ade, thanks for another great video. I've just noticed the riveted sheet panels on your lathe, did you extend the chip tray back? Does it help? I've got some dead space behind mine...
Hi Matthew. yes I did set it back . I think I did a video on it a few years back now . It does help with more capacity for swarf to be cleared from the job . bigger area to fall away. Cheers Ade.
Thanks for sharing 👍 Have you ever tried Trapaning?
Yes I have, more times that I care to remember . It has been a while though . Usually on the lathe but I have had occasion to do it on the mill as well. May do some one day to show it on the channel. Cheers Ade.
Just out of curiosity Ade, why didn’t you get the lathe with the power cross feed option? Just wondered. Love your vids! - Too Many Lates
Why would you have dirt in the tool post?Dah
How to make a Cadillac out of a Chevy. Well at least when there use to be a quality difference.🤣 I'll spray paint my plastic caps aluminum. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great when someone has to remind you to clean the tool post.why bother doing videos?
Thanks Ade