What do you think about the 2 testing methods shown? Seem easy enough for the DIYer? Seems like a subject many homeowners think is beyond them. Would like to hear your feedback!
2 really good , easy videos that any home owner can do before calling out a hvac tech. testing capacitors and contactor is a test that can also be done before calling them, if you are comfortable with, many techs replace then resell those same units on a private separate site like offer up.
I like your videos! For the Megohm test verify the screw you attached the black connector to is truly grounded. Simply due a continuity check between the piping and the screw. Otherwise, a false reading could be displayed.
PLEASE HELP ON A DIFFERNT SUBJECT: I am extremely frustrated with a Raypk 266A natural gas pool heater I bought last year and it quit running this year. Could I pay (join the channel).for you to help me troubleshoot this unit? I've tried local HVAc, plumbers, Raypak (online, email...no answers). Thank you either way! Please let me know
Very informative, I'm not having any issues with mine atm thankfully🙏🏼 I've done a few things to it, not much. Replaced the capacitor a few times since 2013, and January '22 had to replace the fan motor cause it seized up. Saved some money taking the old one out and going to Grainger to match up a replacement and put it back myself. I'm pretty mechanical, so I'm definitely a DIY'er but the compressor has always been a curiosity of mine. I don't know anything about those. I don't know everything about any one thing and HVAC is certainly no exception to that. I know a few things (mainly cause I had to fix it already on one unit or another😆) so far my '07 HIEL has been good to me(bought the house in 2011) but I know everything's just a matter of time. You gained another subscriber today sir as I've just watched a few of your videos and I'm very impressed. This video was especially good for me cause I have that exact volt/ohm meter. So thank you for sharing your helpful knowledge✊️🙏🏼💯
I prefer to know what a meter is measuring, and not rely on "idiot lights" to vaguely indicate there's some issue. So I would prefer to use an ordinary ohmmeter and to understand what the measurements imply. Unfortunately, this video neglects to explain what it would mean if the RC impedance plus the SC impedance doesn't add up exactly to the RS impedance. In that scenario, we know it's not ideal, but we don't know whether the compressor is "good" or "bad" or how many more years of compressor life to expect. I presume an impedance mismatch would imply the insulation of the compressor's internal wiring is breaking down. Aren't there any other ways that a compressor could fail that don't involve the insulation (nor the impedances)? By the way, if the compressor surface is rusty, does it make sense to paint it with a rust-preventative coating? Also, does it make sense to construct a roof over the HVAC to protect it better from the weather, to reduce rusting?
These are great tests and are applicable to most, not *ALL* compressors. The other important thing to know about these tests is they only tell you about your compressors electrical health, they tell you nothing about the compressors mechanical components health. Also keep in mind, some of the newer fancy compressors out there (Trane fully variable speed compressors and some others) can be DAMAGED by using a MEGOHMETER on the windings. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, always verify with the manufacturer the safety of a test for their components before just taking someone's word for it on TH-cam. I greatly appreciate Your making this information available to homeowners so they can protect themselves from dishonest technicians, just be sure to include a BIT more context so homeowners don't get themselves in a bind or decide a technician is lying to them when they tell them the valves are failing on their compressor even though their electrical windings are still testing "VERY GOOD," based on what they learned in this video. Compressors can fail in other ways besides just electrically.
Great content for the average guy who's tired of being taken advantage of by varied technicians. After having a plumber charge me $530 just to replace the hardware inside of a toilets tank I will only call for help if/when a task is way above my abilities. Thank you for your content.
Thanks for the video. Not being an HVAC guy but this might help you to prepare for a hard start installation on a possible failing compressor. My Rheem was manufactured in 1984 and has a 5 2 1 potential relay with cap. I just bought the M500 that might help detect a possible future failure so I can prepare the landlord for a big bill.
I sure appreciate the time you spend on each of your videos. I don’t see myself doing those calculations BUT I learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thank you and keep it up 👍🏼
Thank you for presenting the multimeter method. Most people have one of those. What a useful troubleshooting video. Between this and your troubleshooting the condenser video that covers a lot of ground.
Megohmmeter will tell you if the compressor electrical insultation is good for the voltage used. It creates a very low current high voltage to do so, and is safe to use. One could also test the run capacitor while the start/aux lead is removed.
Some further explanation of the C, R, S numbers would be helpful. For example, if CR + CS = 1.9, but RS = 1.8, is that a "complete fail" or "on the way to failing" or an insignificant difference?
My ac condensor fan was turning backwards. Replaced capacitor , found the common wire to it had melted replaced wire. Fan is running in the right direction now. However it's not getting cold. Used the Megohmmeter on the compressor and it says everything is ok. So probably low freon from a leak. All I know is that if repairman says compressor is bad I know it's not. Thanks for the help.
It looks like these checks are ensuring the insulation of the windings are in good working order, so basically the check is that there is no "third path" directly between run (R) and start (S) that bypasses common (C), which would make the R-S measurement read lower than the demonstrated R-C + C-S measurements. Over time the enamel insulation breaks down, and current starts to bypass windings, making the compressor weaker while also burning more power.
Assuming the windings are good, you only need to check ONE terminal to ground! (whether with the DMM or MEGohmeter (not megAWmeter ;-)) Surely tho, aren't compressor mechanical failures much more likely than electrical?? Maybe not?
While most units have 5/16" screw heads, I've seen several that have 1/4" screw heads. Also, some units (ex. Rheem) have one side of the condenser covered with a panel and the compressor is also under that cover, not below the fan.
Hi. I checked my compressor using your instructions. I couldn't access the compressor directly because I can't reach it (5 ton system). I disconnected the wires from the contactor and the capacitor. I first checked for ground shorts. No shorts. I then checked resistance. My readings are a bit off. I'm reading 1.4, 1.0, 2.0. So it's not adding up correctly. Does this mean my compressor is going bad? I checked the amperage draw while running. I get different reading before and after the contactor. I get 16A (terminal side) and 21A (load side). Is it normal to get different Amp readings before and after the contactor? The RLA is 26A on a 5 ton heat pump. Thanks.
Hi, need help, I was checking my hvac today and noticed I have 3 return ducts going into my air handler. But my house only has 2 returns that I change filters on and both only on the second floor. Could it be possible that the builder forgot to put a hole on the 3rd return on the first floor? My neighbor has 3 returns, two upstairs and one downstairs. And who do I call to fix this? Been in my house 5yrs now.
This is true 50 0/0 and misleading the other 50 obviously your not a trained HVAC tech, compressor could still be bad and not working even with those tests, need to put gauges on and know what the system as whole is doing, temperatures, super heat, sub cooling and many more factors can determine if it's bad, compressors don't die home owners kill them
What do you think about the 2 testing methods shown? Seem easy enough for the DIYer? Seems like a subject many homeowners think is beyond them. Would like to hear your feedback!
2 really good , easy videos that any home owner can do before calling out a hvac tech. testing capacitors and contactor is a test that can also be done before calling them, if you are comfortable with, many techs replace then resell those same units on a private separate site like offer up.
I like your videos!
For the Megohm test verify the screw you attached the black connector to is truly grounded.
Simply due a continuity check between the piping and the screw. Otherwise, a false reading could be displayed.
PLEASE HELP ON A DIFFERNT SUBJECT: I am extremely frustrated with a Raypk 266A natural gas pool heater I bought last year and it quit running this year. Could I pay (join the channel).for you to help me troubleshoot this unit? I've tried local HVAc, plumbers, Raypak (online, email...no answers). Thank you either way! Please let me know
Very informative, I'm not having any issues with mine atm thankfully🙏🏼 I've done a few things to it, not much. Replaced the capacitor a few times since 2013, and January '22 had to replace the fan motor cause it seized up. Saved some money taking the old one out and going to Grainger to match up a replacement and put it back myself. I'm pretty mechanical, so I'm definitely a DIY'er but the compressor has always been a curiosity of mine. I don't know anything about those. I don't know everything about any one thing and HVAC is certainly no exception to that. I know a few things (mainly cause I had to fix it already on one unit or another😆) so far my '07 HIEL has been good to me(bought the house in 2011) but I know everything's just a matter of time.
You gained another subscriber today sir as I've just watched a few of your videos and I'm very impressed. This video was especially good for me cause I have that exact volt/ohm meter. So thank you for sharing your helpful knowledge✊️🙏🏼💯
I prefer to know what a meter is measuring, and not rely on "idiot lights" to vaguely indicate there's some issue. So I would prefer to use an ordinary ohmmeter and to understand what the measurements imply. Unfortunately, this video neglects to explain what it would mean if the RC impedance plus the SC impedance doesn't add up exactly to the RS impedance. In that scenario, we know it's not ideal, but we don't know whether the compressor is "good" or "bad" or how many more years of compressor life to expect.
I presume an impedance mismatch would imply the insulation of the compressor's internal wiring is breaking down. Aren't there any other ways that a compressor could fail that don't involve the insulation (nor the impedances)?
By the way, if the compressor surface is rusty, does it make sense to paint it with a rust-preventative coating? Also, does it make sense to construct a roof over the HVAC to protect it better from the weather, to reduce rusting?
These are great tests and are applicable to most, not *ALL* compressors. The other important thing to know about these tests is they only tell you about your compressors electrical health, they tell you nothing about the compressors mechanical components health. Also keep in mind, some of the newer fancy compressors out there (Trane fully variable speed compressors and some others) can be DAMAGED by using a MEGOHMETER on the windings. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, always verify with the manufacturer the safety of a test for their components before just taking someone's word for it on TH-cam.
I greatly appreciate Your making this information available to homeowners so they can protect themselves from dishonest technicians, just be sure to include a BIT more context so homeowners don't get themselves in a bind or decide a technician is lying to them when they tell them the valves are failing on their compressor even though their electrical windings are still testing "VERY GOOD," based on what they learned in this video. Compressors can fail in other ways besides just electrically.
Great content for the average guy who's tired of being taken advantage of by varied technicians. After having a plumber charge me $530 just to replace the hardware inside of a toilets tank I will only call for help if/when a task is way above my abilities. Thank you for your content.
Perfect troubleshooting video! Thank you sir, I especially appreciated you showing two methods and a way to validate your testing.
Thanks for the video. Not being an HVAC guy but this might help you to prepare for a hard start installation on a possible failing compressor. My Rheem was manufactured in 1984 and has a 5 2 1 potential relay with cap. I just bought the M500 that might help detect a possible future failure so I can prepare the landlord for a big bill.
Great job in explaining every step
I sure appreciate the time you spend on each of your videos. I don’t see myself doing those calculations BUT I learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thank you and keep it up 👍🏼
Thank you for presenting the multimeter method. Most people have one of those. What a useful troubleshooting video. Between this and your troubleshooting the condenser video that covers a lot of ground.
Excellent video and the testing methods you use . Thank you your information was very valuable. 👍
Thanks for another great video, very helpful!
Thanks Very Helpful!!
Have you ever tried resistance readings by removing the compressor wires from the contactor and capacitor? Great video !
Megohmmeter will tell you if the compressor electrical insultation is good for the voltage used. It creates a very low current high voltage to do so, and is safe to use. One could also test the run capacitor while the start/aux lead is removed.
Great video thanks
Some further explanation of the C, R, S numbers would be helpful. For example, if CR + CS = 1.9, but RS = 1.8, is that a "complete fail" or "on the way to failing" or an insignificant difference?
I was thinking the same thing too. compressor specs from the manufacturer might answer this question fully.
I came here to say the same thing.
The readings you gave is ok, it’s when you have a large amount of difference like 0.5 plus
Great video two questions. Does that M500 also check the capacitors? And if you have a short to ground, how do you fix it? Thank you for your time.
My ac condensor fan was turning backwards. Replaced capacitor , found the common wire to it had melted replaced wire. Fan is running in the right direction now. However it's not getting cold. Used the Megohmmeter on the compressor and it says everything is ok. So probably low freon from a leak. All I know is that if repairman says compressor is bad I know it's not. Thanks for the help.
what reading indicates a bad compressor when using the ohm meter ? what would the resistances be? open? short? hi or low?
It looks like these checks are ensuring the insulation of the windings are in good working order, so basically the check is that there is no "third path" directly between run (R) and start (S) that bypasses common (C), which would make the R-S measurement read lower than the demonstrated R-C + C-S measurements.
Over time the enamel insulation breaks down, and current starts to bypass windings, making the compressor weaker while also burning more power.
Nice, thank you for sharing this.
hi there can u use this test on a refrigerator??? great video
Another informative video. Thanks
Assuming the windings are good, you only need to check ONE terminal to ground! (whether with the DMM or MEGohmeter (not megAWmeter ;-)) Surely tho, aren't compressor mechanical failures much more likely than electrical?? Maybe not?
Yes helpful vid for sure. How do we know when freon is needed. Have a vid on that topic? Subscriber here. Thanks!
Hello sir , thank a lot for your explain, but lm confused about connect Run and Start I thought Run right hand and start left hand 😮🤔!!?
Great Video!
While most units have 5/16" screw heads, I've seen several that have 1/4" screw heads. Also, some units (ex. Rheem) have one side of the condenser covered with a panel and the compressor is also under that cover, not below the fan.
Hi. I checked my compressor using your instructions. I couldn't access the compressor directly because I can't reach it (5 ton system). I disconnected the wires from the contactor and the capacitor. I first checked for ground shorts. No shorts. I then checked resistance. My readings are a bit off. I'm reading 1.4, 1.0, 2.0. So it's not adding up correctly. Does this mean my compressor is going bad? I checked the amperage draw while running. I get different reading before and after the contactor. I get 16A (terminal side) and 21A (load side). Is it normal to get different Amp readings before and after the contactor? The RLA is 26A on a 5 ton heat pump. Thanks.
you are awesome - thank you again
Hi, need help, I was checking my hvac today and noticed I have 3 return ducts going into my air handler. But my house only has 2 returns that I change filters on and both only on the second floor. Could it be possible that the builder forgot to put a hole on the 3rd return on the first floor? My neighbor has 3 returns, two upstairs and one downstairs. And who do I call to fix this? Been in my house 5yrs now.
If your compressor is going bad, can you just replace the compressor or should you get a new Condenser Unit?
Can the compressor pass these tests (i.e., will start/run) but still fail to actually compress the refrigerant due to faulty internal seals?
Like others have said, what numbers am I looking at to tell the compressor is bad?
I thought you were also going to show how to check the Amperage draw. That's kind of important, too.
You are obviously only testing the windings. Compressors can have other failure modes.
What about mechanical condition?
Rust looking like this, no issue. Just surface.
Exactly! Thanks Clarence!
yea my mini frigure make sa tic noise every 5-8 minutes, the doesn't get cool .
So, what is a polite way of telling the A/C guy that he's pulling the wool over our eyes? i.e., he's lying to us.
LITERALLY LITERALLY
Huh
Showing opens/shorts doesn't prove a compressor is good.....
So true, doesn’t show if you are getting leakage from high side to low that can happen in compressors at times
This is true 50 0/0 and misleading the other 50 obviously your not a trained HVAC tech, compressor could still be bad and not working even with those tests, need to put gauges on and know what the system as whole is doing, temperatures, super heat, sub cooling and many more factors can determine if it's bad, compressors don't die home owners kill them