Thanks Bob, very helpful, but when I needed to replace the wires on my 201, I discovered that someone had used crimped male/female connectors, which made the first 1 1/2 inches out of the coil very stiff. They crimped the connections so diligently that I would have lost many strands trying to separate them, leaving little to solder to. I had to bend the crap out of that mess to reassemble the motor. Still not sure I could have done differently.
Yeah Gary, I too have seen some real butchering of coil leads. I can usually get in super tight and fix them, but occasionally, it's best to go through the parts bin and find a replacement...
Make new coils? Sorry, that's just not in my skill set I'm afraid. Winding motor coils is a very specialized skill. Define what you mean by "toast"... Many times, they can be fixed.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop the copper wire that makes up the coil itself is jet black, and cracked in several areas. Someone had previously retired it and did a terrible job.
Great information and video. Is it always necessary to remove field coil and the middle commutator motor when adding new wires? And if you don't how do you check with the multimeter for OHM's measurement as brush holder would still be in the end cover cap. thanks
Yes, and that, my friend, is NOT something you want to have to do... It's easier to source a new (used) coil. I've had it happen three times over the years, and once I had to replace the coil.
It happened to me too on a potted 101 motor. What I found most difficult was getting the coil back into position after I repaired the lead. And surprisingly, the motor runs like a champ. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@@tanyajones5821 Kapton tape isn't intended for such uses and isn't very flexible. I would think that a vinyl adhesive tape, such as standard electrical tape, would be a better choice.
On my machine all of the insulation around the field coil is like a cotton material and it is all peeling off. The machine itsself has great percing power, but it now idles and has started to smoke. What should I do to fix this problem. Or, can it be fixed at all without converting to a belt driven system?
The motor may still be salvageable, but it won't be if you use it while it's smoking. Depending on how bad the internal burning is, you might need to source a replacement.
So neat.
Thanks!
Gosh, beautiful!!! Thank you, Bob!! I learned a lot, watching!
Thanks Sam!
Thanks for the video! Apparently we were on the same page today because I just did this on my 15-91 this afternoon haha!
Awesome! send pix!
Working on this today. Thanks for the video once again.
This was great, Bob! Thanks so much!
Thanks, hope it helped!
Thanks Bob, very helpful, but when I needed to replace the wires on my 201, I discovered that someone had used crimped male/female connectors, which made the first 1 1/2 inches out of the coil very stiff. They crimped the connections so diligently that I would have lost many strands trying to separate them, leaving little to solder to. I had to bend the crap out of that mess to reassemble the motor. Still not sure I could have done differently.
Yeah Gary, I too have seen some real butchering of coil leads. I can usually get in super tight and fix them, but occasionally, it's best to go through the parts bin and find a replacement...
I appreciate your videos! Can you make a video on how to make new coils? I just tore into a 15-91 I just bought and the coils are toast… 😩
Make new coils? Sorry, that's just not in my skill set I'm afraid. Winding motor coils is a very specialized skill. Define what you mean by "toast"... Many times, they can be fixed.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop the copper wire that makes up the coil itself is jet black, and cracked in several areas. Someone had previously retired it and did a terrible job.
@@fr8builtmotorco.176 email me at argosybob@gmail.com...
Great information and video. Is it always necessary to remove field coil and the middle commutator motor when adding new wires? And if you don't how do you check with the multimeter for OHM's measurement as brush holder would still be in the end cover cap. thanks
I don't know how you would do it without taking it apart...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop okay thanks. Just can't get the motor out of the field coil on my Singer 222k :)
Bob, have you ever had a lead break completely off a field coil and have to open the field coil ti reattach to the solid wire in the coil?
Yes, and that, my friend, is NOT something you want to have to do... It's easier to source a new (used) coil. I've had it happen three times over the years, and once I had to replace the coil.
It happened to me too on a potted 101 motor. What I found most difficult was getting the coil back into position after I repaired the lead. And surprisingly, the motor runs like a champ. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Bob, do you know what kind of wrap or coating is on those field coils? The wrap on mine is a little fuzzy in spots and I wonder if it needs fixing?
They used some kind of cloth based tape, probably linen. Quite obsolete by todays standards.
Would using kapton tape work for wrapping the windings? @@BobFowlerWorkshop
@@tanyajones5821 Kapton tape isn't intended for such uses and isn't very flexible. I would think that a vinyl adhesive tape, such as standard electrical tape, would be a better choice.
Beautiful job!. Makes me want to take apart a motor or two just to try it out! What size shrink tubing do you use for this?
Thanks! With 18 gauge wire, 3/16".
On my machine all of the insulation around the field coil is like a cotton material and it is all peeling off. The machine itsself has great percing power, but it now idles and has started to smoke. What should I do to fix this problem. Or, can it be fixed at all without converting to a belt driven system?
The motor may still be salvageable, but it won't be if you use it while it's smoking. Depending on how bad the internal burning is, you might need to source a replacement.