If you find a good setting, I would start there with each observation. Things can change slightly depending on temperature, how much atmosphere you are looking through and even the speed of the prominences coming off the sun toward you (they can doppler shift due to their speed). Assuming you don't change your telescope or setup, in general, it should be close.
Please, can you help me? I ordered a Daystar Quark and I was worried now. I have an AT65EDQ Astrotech refractor (quadriplet, 65mm F/6). It's compatible? Is ERF indispensable? Thank you.
Good morning, I’m setup right now 1/10/2020 6:30 am waiting for the sun to rices, as for a focal reducer do I put on the camera or in front of the quark. Please help me.
You normally put it on the rear of the Quark otherwise you will reduce the f-ratio going into the Quark and this can reduce the sharpness of the image. There is a nice example in this video: th-cam.com/video/h_SQe2MLOvw/w-d-xo.html Chuck uses a ZWO ASI183MM camera, some people have had problems with this camera with H-alpha because of a grid pattern showing on the images. A lot of people have had good results with a ZWO ASI174MM.
With solar h alpha viewing it's in for a dime, ain for a dollar. Think of it this way. With solar it's really extremely logical to use an equatorial mount with tracking. So you're going to need a power supply.
@@tim71pos lunt and Coronado have entry 40mm sizes they start at about $400 us about, that can work A cg4 or 3 could easily work and you can have the drives power from 8x d batteries. Regular drives don’t need a lot power it’s slewing it’s goto that need more power. Joe
Hi LaKeshia, For the standard Quark, I would recommend a scope with a focal ratio of f/5 to f/9. The Vixen ED80Sf at f/7.5 is a good choice, and you don't need an UV/IR or ERF for that size.
That f9.8 is a stretch. Since the Quark is 4.3x Barlow, it puts you out of the happy range of F/17 to F/38. You'll definitely be too "zoomed in" and will probably lose some detail. You certainly won't get the solar disk. I'd say buy an inexpensive 60mm-70mm APO.
This video does not explain why I was urged repeatedly to get 2x and 4x Powermates, and it doesn't indicate "order of assembly" with UVIR and powermates in place. I imagine the image must be very small without the Powermates.
When you find a good setting using the tuning knob, is that fixed or do you need to reset it each time you use the Quark?
If you find a good setting, I would start there with each observation. Things can change slightly depending on temperature, how much atmosphere you are looking through and even the speed of the prominences coming off the sun toward you (they can doppler shift due to their speed). Assuming you don't change your telescope or setup, in general, it should be close.
Please, can you help me? I ordered a Daystar Quark and I was worried now. I have an AT65EDQ Astrotech refractor (quadriplet, 65mm F/6).
It's compatible? Is ERF indispensable? Thank you.
Did the Quark work for your AT65EDQ? I also have one and I'm considering the Quark
According to what he said YES you should use a ERF in front of the OTA, heating the tube is a big risk!
The ERF, where do you get that, which isn't a $300 Baader?
PS: next time, set your exposure to manual
Good morning, I’m setup right now 1/10/2020 6:30 am waiting for the sun to rices, as for a focal reducer do I put on the camera or in front of the quark. Please help me.
You normally put it on the rear of the Quark otherwise you will reduce the f-ratio going into the Quark and this can reduce the sharpness of the image. There is a nice example in this video:
th-cam.com/video/h_SQe2MLOvw/w-d-xo.html
Chuck uses a ZWO ASI183MM camera, some people have had problems with this camera with H-alpha because of a grid pattern showing on the images. A lot of people have had good results with a ZWO ASI174MM.
for me having to plug it in is a deal killer. ok sure i could buy that power pack but how much does that cost?
With solar h alpha viewing it's in for a dime, ain for a dollar. Think of it this way. With solar it's really extremely logical to use an equatorial mount with tracking. So you're going to need a power supply.
@@tim71pos lunt and Coronado have entry 40mm sizes they start at about $400 us about, that can work
A cg4 or 3 could easily work and you can have the drives power from 8x d batteries. Regular drives don’t need a lot power it’s slewing it’s goto that need more power. Joe
New to hobby I am gearing up for the eclipse in 2017. What scope do you recommend for this Quark I want to be able to see more of the chromosphere.
Hi LaKeshia,
For the standard Quark, I would recommend a scope with a focal ratio of f/5 to f/9. The Vixen ED80Sf at f/7.5 is a good choice, and you don't need an UV/IR or ERF for that size.
Hello, what would you recommend for a celestron 102gt it's f9.8
That f9.8 is a stretch. Since the Quark is 4.3x Barlow, it puts you out of the happy range of F/17 to F/38. You'll definitely be too "zoomed in" and will probably lose some detail. You certainly won't get the solar disk. I'd say buy an inexpensive 60mm-70mm APO.
Solar powered solar scope. :)
This video does not explain why I was urged repeatedly to get 2x and 4x Powermates, and it doesn't indicate "order of assembly" with UVIR and powermates in place. I imagine the image must be very small without the Powermates.
The Quark Chromosphere does not require a Powermate since this model has a built in Barlow just before H-alpha filter.