Great advice. My first E1 (10a here in the US) trad lead was a big overhanging fist crack in VT I really wanted to onsight, but I decided to do it on TR first. I groveled up it on my birthday on TR and was glad I did. I would have flailed off for sure if I was placing gear. I sussed out the gear and found the good spots on TR, then redpointed it two ascents later, first try on lead. Onsighting is cool but its also just cool to crack into the grade and realize you're capable of doing what you set your mind to!
Nothing better than the sound of crashing waves under you when you climb! Another cracking video JB💪🏻 I’m going to have to buy a t-shirt too, they look really nice. Keep up the good work👍🏻
I'm really liking the sea cliff videos. Something to aim at for sure. Got to get something booked in this Summer I reckon. Thanks for sharing! The artwork is still in play for you. Busy ML training & that thing called work! Cheers Jez! Great videos & find myself revisiting past ones.
Bagged this one a few weeks ago. Absolute mega pitch. Second only to cemetery gates for me at this point which would be another great one for you to film!
Looking to start studying at Bangor this September - your videos are getting me so psyched for the climbing in North Wales! This and the vid for A Dream of White Horses are amazing motivation to get out, learn skills and get stronger before then :) Will be a nice change from everything being a thrutchy offwidth here in the peak...
That route looks amazing! Just come back from the Gower and did a couple of first easy leads, one with gear in place and one independently with my own rack etc before the drizzle turned into proper rain. Living in the West Midlands I fall into the category of not being able to get to the crag regularly, but it does give me options of Lakes, N Wales, S Wales, Avon, Peak and even south coast. I'd love to second/toprope to that sort of grade just to see if it's possible for me. Question, does the fact that route is multipitch up the grade, ie would it be VS/HVS type climbing if it were a single pitch?
It's one of the best! Not normally, but exposure and escapability etc may effect it a bit. For example A Dream of White Horses is only VS climbing really but gets HVS due to the seriousness for both leader and second.
In general the crux of a multi-pitch HVS is as hard as the crux of a single pitch HVS but the climbing often isn’t as intense as there is more of it so there is likely to be more easy stuff. A typical multi pitch VS will have lots of 4a climbing on it with a couple of short sections of 4c climbing however a typical grit VS would be 4c most of the way.
Helps with rope drag if on a wandering route and spreads force of a fall between pieces of kit and if alternating ropes on a straight up climb it means u can high clip while still being safe
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! bit.ly/3vhJwab
Or buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! bit.ly/3clZ1pc
Did this 27 years ago, great memories of Gogarth.
Great advice. My first E1 (10a here in the US) trad lead was a big overhanging fist crack in VT I really wanted to onsight, but I decided to do it on TR first. I groveled up it on my birthday on TR and was glad I did. I would have flailed off for sure if I was placing gear. I sussed out the gear and found the good spots on TR, then redpointed it two ascents later, first try on lead. Onsighting is cool but its also just cool to crack into the grade and realize you're capable of doing what you set your mind to!
Nothing better than the sound of crashing waves under you when you climb! Another cracking video JB💪🏻 I’m going to have to buy a t-shirt too, they look really nice. Keep up the good work👍🏻
Very kind! Sea cliff stuff is always extra special!
Amazing video! Really enjoyed and some great advice❤️
Liked the positive encouraging message and helpful summary/reminder of the different elements to consider, thank you
Absolute pleasure!
I'm really liking the sea cliff videos. Something to aim at for sure. Got to get something booked in this Summer I reckon. Thanks for sharing! The artwork is still in play for you. Busy ML training & that thing called work! Cheers Jez! Great videos & find myself revisiting past ones.
I love sea cliffs!
Bagged this one a few weeks ago. Absolute mega pitch. Second only to cemetery gates for me at this point which would be another great one for you to film!
Nice one! What a pitch hey?!
Looking to start studying at Bangor this September - your videos are getting me so psyched for the climbing in North Wales! This and the vid for A Dream of White Horses are amazing motivation to get out, learn skills and get stronger before then :) Will be a nice change from everything being a thrutchy offwidth here in the peak...
Nice one! Hard to beat N Wales for the variety of ace climbing :)
That route looks amazing! Just come back from the Gower and did a couple of first easy leads, one with gear in place and one independently with my own rack etc before the drizzle turned into proper rain. Living in the West Midlands I fall into the category of not being able to get to the crag regularly, but it does give me options of Lakes, N Wales, S Wales, Avon, Peak and even south coast. I'd love to second/toprope to that sort of grade just to see if it's possible for me. Question, does the fact that route is multipitch up the grade, ie would it be VS/HVS type climbing if it were a single pitch?
It's one of the best!
Not normally, but exposure and escapability etc may effect it a bit. For example A Dream of White Horses is only VS climbing really but gets HVS due to the seriousness for both leader and second.
In general the crux of a multi-pitch HVS is as hard as the crux of a single pitch HVS but the climbing often isn’t as intense as there is more of it so there is likely to be more easy stuff. A typical multi pitch VS will have lots of 4a climbing on it with a couple of short sections of 4c climbing however a typical grit VS would be 4c most of the way.
Another super vid. 35k subs by xmas I reckon 😉
Cheers!
Haha, in my dreams!
why do you always use twin ropes for trad routes?
Helps with rope drag if on a wandering route and spreads force of a fall between pieces of kit and if alternating ropes on a straight up climb it means u can high clip while still being safe
A few reasons!
1. Less rope drag
2. Full length abs
3. Some redundancy if a rope gets damaged
4. They're nice to use
Think I'll do a video on it soon!
Ridiculously unnecessary intro length
Turned off
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