@Bill Perkins engine has a CAV lucas pump. Completely different from rotary VE. It's best to take it to a Diesel workshop. Might have parts that need to be replaced. Yes, there are torque settings for bolts and other stuff. Especially the ones where fuel comes out to the pipes.
Does the knock pin must be aligned with the the driveshaft keyway, even if I didn't disassemble the whole pump? And could that be a reason why there is no fuel pressure?
I have a 2002 vw jetta tdi alh. For 8yrs I've had problems with lack of power. Never showed any engine codes even with the vagcom. Finally had the injection pump replaced and now it runs better than new. So my question is what the hell went bad with the pump????
Hi webslinger Great video! I disassembled my rd28t pump to fit 11mm plunger. Got it back together but no fuel out of delivery pipes. Solenoid works correctly. I'm insure if i may have the cam plate (think that's what it's called) 180 degrees out. Would this effect fuel flow or would it just fire the opposite fuel delivery pipe? Thanks for your assistance!
I didn't install my knock pin to keyway when I rebuilt my pump. My car is locked to tdc. Do I still need to take it apart and do it because car will not start ?
Hi Thank you for this awesome video.I did what you are showing, now i get a problem to start my engine up. My car is a Volkswagen golf 3 Tdi 90 PS. I have no gazoline out ot my pump, i mean the pump seems not to push the diesel till the injectors. Do you have any idea about the breakdown ? Regards
Basically, if it's good enough to hold the shims and plunger guides in place(on the hydraulic head). That should be enough. Careful not to put too much though. You might clog the inlet strainer.
hello and i have just a question and what is that " red " fluid that you use in hydraulic head?? i think its some especial glue but im not sure and would like you please confirm me that , and thankx for this video
Brilliant video thank you. Followed both videos putting mine back together. Just put it back on the engine but it fires for a second then cuts out. Any ideas? No plunger in the solenoid, seperate fuel supply, vanes all free in the pump.
Hi,The video was very useful and i really learned a lot from it.When i have a fuel pump that is leaking fuel i normally take it to a specialist to replace the seals but now thanks to this video i can do it my self.The only thing about the video is that when you are assembling something important you are out of the picture and we can't see how exactly to assemble.Another thing is where to buy the special sockets you use on the pump.Other wise its great.Thank you
ok man i undestand you but thats not what im asking , i mean i dont undestand that " grease" material , i have to gett that but i even dont know what to ask here in a shop case i dont undestand the mean of grease ...thats my problem and can you explain me whats that or where basicly that thing usually have aplication?
ok but now im portuguese and i went to translate the woard grease and i got some things howeveer i will have to ask you some help if you can be more especificy whit that grease because i dont have ideia what produt is or how can i ask in the shop....i will have to open my head and i falow your video here , now i just need to gett that grease so the job woarks fine ..thankx for your attencion
Can you give me some advise please? I was replacing rubber seal on a hydraulic cover and somehow I manage to broke the spacer of the plunger end. Can you please tell me what to do and does this pump is still for use?
Broke the small round spacer on top of the plunger? Replacing it would require taking K and KF measurement (Technical stuff based on Calibration data). If you're referring to the copper gasket on the other end(on the 3 sided plug of the rotorhead), There's plenty you can buy from diesel injection shops.
Hi there. I have replaced both timer cover O rings & the thermos wax O ring as well as the Distributive head O ring on my VE4 injector pump on my Hilux Surf. On fitting to the vehicle I found that I could prime diesel into the pump body but not out the delivery side to the injectors. I notice that in the Toyota service manual it recommends not tilting the pump past 45 degrees. I am wondering if in replacing the rear O ring where I had to tip the pump on end to stop the innards falling out I have upset something inside. Can you please help me?
Check for a loose wire on the shut-off solenoid. Did you put an 8mm shim on the cold start device before placing it back? There would be a problem if you forced it back in.
Dear Sir, I have a problem with calibration of bosch pump with the engine... I saw a lot of videos with dial gauge calibration while the pump is fully attached to engine, and I don't find that as a good way to do it. In videos they find one zero point (of four) and assume that this is the wright one and rotate pump for 0,8mm front while the engine is in zero point. I would appreciate any comment, regards.
Pump has to be timed on the engine. Zero point on the pump means the plunger is at it's lowest position. You will notice the gauge moves in advance then retards towards the lowest point when you rotate the engine's crankshaft. The moment it starts to move in advance is the zero point. Procedure is often stated in the manual. Some need to put a spacer if equipped with a cold start device.
I will set engin to zero, then loose the fuel pipes on engine and see what's happening when turning bosch pump ... i will roughly set it on first , then adjust it by gauge on 0,8 mm forward
What should be the right thickness of that spacer? Or do I need to put the one with same measurements? Does it effect the proper functioning of the engine?
Iv marc Too much thickness will damage the rotor. Too little will lag injection timing. I suggest watching my other video explaining the inner workings of the pump.
Iv marc Proper measurement of K and KF dimension must be observed to select the right thickness needed. It would be best to let diesel shops to fix it. Doin it your way is not advisable.As always, I won't be held liable to other people's actions.
It is small one on top of the plunger, with a small-diameter hole in the middle. So just to take measurements of it and replace it with the right one and that's it? Thank you and excellent educational video. by the way.
mic the broken button order the same size, if there is little power at full throttle and fuel pressure is at its max, order the next size in button (shim ) .02 mm thick. that will bring back fuel delivery at injectors(assuming injectors are good). saves time and money for shop to repair it. 1500 is our norm charge here.
What would cause the pump to prevent fuel flow through the rear output lines up to the injectors when cranking or priming? Will only pressurise the return line back to the tank.
I rebuilt the pump the same as yours ( just the top bit where springs and rollers are. Recorded it and bled the pump and my engine will not start. But runs fine on easy start spray
awesome video, I manage to service my ve injection pump but have run in a problem now. engine starts on starter fuel and goes to high rpms instantly and stay high. when accelerator is pressed rpm drops slightly. what I must have gone wrong with?
Might be something wrong between the governor lever and control sleeve on the hydraulic head. It should slide freely during assembly. Also, Tiny specs of dirt inside is bad for the pump.
outstanding video!! it must take a genius to engineer stuff like this. i have a problem with my Perkins engine that quit running. i cleaned out the lift pump, cleaned & blasted air through all the tubes, removed & dismantled all the injectors (of which all were filthy) yet still wont run. the only thing left is the injector pump. i removed the high pressure side tube & at best the pump spit fuel only 2-3ft. that seems a bit weak for ~1,700psi. if i can find a rebuild kit for it, would that fix it or is it damaged beyond that point? also, are there any critical torque settings? cast aluminum is mighty touchy. Thanks once again for making this video, it has been invaluable!!!
That fuel squirting can be misleading. It’s not volume, it’s pressure. If you,re getting fuel out of the port, then it’s pumping fuel. If the pump is on the engine, put the high psi line on, attach to injector, see if it gets wet at the injector. If so, tighten the nuts on all the lines and crank engine. If it’s putting fuel in the engine, you should see smoke at the exhaust.
Common wear items on the ve pump are, gov weights, drive shaft bushing, throttle bushing.there’s a big soft plug on the head that’s supposed to be replaced every time the pump is overhauled. These are about the best, most durable pumps out there. Usually they came in because of leaking, not performance.
I have a problem with this type of pump. It is for a marine application. The engine was commissioned in 2012 and has done 90hrs. The fuel filters have been changed each year by a yanmar agent. The filters were clean on service ie no water or any other contamination. On this particular day the engine had run for three hours at various speeds. When we entered the marina the engine was put into neutral ie tick over. Within a matter of 10 seconds the engine started to misfire. This happened for approx. 5 seconds. The engine then started to pick up speed and kept going past the max and then slow to stop.It stopped because the pistons hit the valves etc. The pump was clean inside virtually new the fuel bobbin has seized to the shaft and bent the governor fulcram so allowing it to aver rev. Are you able to give me some idea of what could have caused this. All I can think at this time when slowing from 1200 revs to 600 revs (tickover) the fuel bobbin would have closed the fuel flow and the shaft would have maybe run dry and started to seize.Any help would be appreciated.
If the engine sat for a very long time, these VE pumps get rusted internally. Wear is another factor, but mainly dirt or water contamination can cause the control sleeve to seize.
Hi, great videos I'm learning a lot. I have a ZEXEL VE pump but need it to operate in the opposite direction. Whats parts do I need to change to achieve this? Thanks
Repair center's rely on a database to locate specific parts for a particular pump. It would be hard to find(if not impossible) all the needed parts for the conversion. The pump housing in particular is designed for one direction only. Either fixed for right or left rotation. Rotor head has a right or left orientation as well.
Thank you so much for the quick and thorough answers. Fro the workshop gave me the exact thickness of the spacer. I assembled the pump and install it on the car. When I was trying to start the engine there wasn't any fuel coming at the injectors, at all. Not a single drop. But the fuel is coming into the pump. Any idea?
I assume it's a VE pump. Check the stop solenoid at the back of the pump. Disconnect and supply power. If you hear a clicking sound, then it's working.
The pump is completely full with fuel. Even the inlet channel and the entire chamber where the plunger sits. When I am turning the plunger by hand inside the head it makes pressure, but when I assemble the pump nothing.
Hello, i have a discovery 300tdi and when i take down the timing belt i notice that the bosch pump pulley moves a litle bit back and forward ( axial play). It is normal?
As long as it gets tight when you turn, then it does the same about 90 degrees, its fine. Have a look at my other vid explaining the inner parts of the VE.
I have one of these pumps on a Nissan LD20 engine used in a boat. The engine needs to crank for about a minute before it fires. Once it is running, it behaves well, responds to the throttle and runs well under load. . Fuel filters and lines are all clear. I had a tech look at it - he pronounced "water damage" , recommeded fuel additive and was going to look at it until he tested positive for covid 19 and has now dropped off the radar. I hope he's alright - he's a nice guy. If I disconnect the injector fuel lines and crank it, very little fuel comes out. It's almost like the feed pump isn't building up pressure. Is there any way to measure this pressure ?
We put a special fitting at the outlet side on the top cover of the pump and connect a pressure gauge in between the pump and the overflow bolt to measure pressure on VE pumps.
On start, my engine idles, but does not respond to the throttle, I have to get over 1.200 rpm by 'bumping' before it works. Espace with VE turbo. mech pump. As long as I keep it over 1200 it works fine, just fancy footwork to keep it there in traffic. Any clues, before I strip it down? Thanks
Andrew Eckford check accelerator cable. Might be stretched. Opening the pump must be the last option. Also, a sticky control sleeve on the plunger might be a cause as well.
Thanks for getting back. Not the cable, the quadrant goes to the stop with no effect. It has to be something Inside. Giving it a go tomorrow and will let you know.
Well, had the top off in situe and could see no obvious probs like broken springs or other parts. So put it back together and will look for a s/h pump, as the local 'specialists' are arm & leg prices. Changing it envolves pulling the front off the car, so trying a look was worth it. It happened quite suddenly and is consistent, so a sticking sleave does not sound likely.
To add, it has a switch on the quadrant that turns on (or off?) after the first bit of movement and three wires to the plastic cover that is over the stop solenoid. Any chance that these can influence things? I would have thought not, but..
That might be an anti theft device over the solenoid. Nope it won't cause that problem. I would check if there's enough pressure building inside the pump.
I have a 1998 Nissan Terrano II does anyone know if the metering block mg/str is the same on all these VE pump most videos are showing reseal on 1.9 VW how do you adjust a metering block without OBDII port any old school way ?
I asked Igor? about the mg/str setting for a 2.7 L as his video is a 1.9 engine. Adjustment using vag.com through OBDII port says the setting is between 3 and 4 i am a where of the the hammer adjustment and have seen a Russian use a altimeter / resistance for this adjustment I was hoping Igor would know. I will not be giving a diesel mechanic my pump to rip me off on a seal kit repair as my pump runs fine apart from a top seal leak
Geoffrey Barton for an edc or covec pump not only requires a controller but the pump's calibration data. The insides is different from the ordinary mechanical pump. Besides, a leaking top cover means the seals are already brittle.
Nice job. one thing is bothering me. I have a 1.9 ALH and the injection pump is making a strange noise: th-cam.com/video/u8rxoJqV7c4/w-d-xo.html could be this due to the constant bubles that are circulating in the fuel line? thanks.
If it’s a belt driven pump, then the belt was too tight, causing the drive shaft to rub hard on one side of bushing.very common. Needs a new bushing. Can only be done by a specialist.on gear driven pumps, we never saw this problem.
Webslinger Why would it be bad if i get it wrong ? It is a very simple procedure to replace the top metering block seals. If i mark the metering block on three sides before removing it when reinstalling the metering block it should be within the same values mg/str 2- 4 mg/str for a 1.9 L engine . when reinstalling the metering block you must make sure that the metering arm lines up with the hole in the governor. If you miss the hole in the installation of this process the car will over rpm on start indicating that you have missed the hole. This will not damage the pump but you will need to open and reinstall. For bad mg/str this will deliver more or less fuel . More will use excessive fuel bad economy and blow smoke and less will lean the engine which will cause the engine to run hot. Before the age of computers this was done how? do you know how Your video is interesting but does not cover a none mechanical VE pump . My original Question was if you have an answer is ? IS a 1.9L ve pump mg/str the same as a 2.7L engine .
Geoffrey Barton Short answer: 1.9L is totally different from a 2.7. It requires more fuel. As you have mentioned, an engine overrun might damage your engine. Setting too little and you won't be able to start. I guess you know how to work things out. As always I will not liable for anything.
Weblinger is this your name what do i call you? Thanks for the reply . I understand your concerns and appreciate your input and don't hold any one responsible for my actions. Unfortunately i am in the middle of Australia and getting the Nissan Terrano II 1998 to a diesel mechanic is not a option . So i am left with a bush fix and my mechanical ability to sort this out. Luckily their are videos online to only guide me through the process. VAGCOMS would be great if this model had a OBDII port but it doesn't so i have to take a chance when setting it and as you have said too little would give low power and too much would increase smoke. I was only hoping that an old diesel mechanic would know another way to gauge this quantity meter. Are you in Australia?..... I have ordered a running second hand Pump, if all fails. I would be happy to have you recondition my old one if you are in Australia?...... Until then your knowledge and input is always welcome . At this stage the seals are in and the car but it will not start. Is low cracking a factor or just the quantity meter set to low or a combination of the two ..... I am forced to buy a new starter motor as i have ruled out the battery being the issue . I have cracked open the injectors to bleed them and no signs of fuel is ejected. In all the videos i have seen bleeding the injectors is not necessary when replacing top seals only is this true or false?...... Once again your input is valued and appreciated as a guide only.
Sorry, but I've left Oz. Mechanical pumps deliver excess fuel for starting. Same applies on covec pumps such as yours. Cranking speed to about 200rpm on the engine. You can move the governor a tiny bit closer to the rotor head for more fuel. Not necessary to bleed the injectors unless you've loosened up the lines. Have you heard of MTQ engine systems? They have a few branches around Australia or you could find Gary or ibby at Hi-tech Diesel in Adelaide.
Hi, Could you please tell me what the start of injection timing should be (in crank angle BTDC) for an IDI engine. What should should it be at fully retarded (low idle) and at max rpm. Thanks
There's a solenoid the opens to give fuel. Also broken valves and springs at the distributor head.
We cast this VE pump and machine it in our company....so proud to see an assembly video of it
Thanks!
@Bill Perkins engine has a CAV lucas pump. Completely different from rotary VE. It's best to take it to a Diesel workshop. Might have parts that need to be replaced. Yes, there are torque settings for bolts and other stuff. Especially the ones where fuel comes out to the pipes.
Does the knock pin must be aligned with the the driveshaft keyway, even if I didn't disassemble the whole pump? And could that be a reason why there is no fuel pressure?
@amar It's either the seal has failed or it has eaten away part of the driveshaft. Best to have it repaired at a diesel injection workshop.
@Kenny could you describe what problems you're having with it? Crank no start, no fuel coming out from the pipes etc...
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Trabalho na fabricação da carcaça da VE. Muita precisão . para ter um perfeito focionamento.
@lv marc Did you loosen the full load screw when you took off the top cover? It should be adjusted on the calibration test bench.
I have a 2002 vw jetta tdi alh. For 8yrs I've had problems with lack of power. Never showed any engine codes even with the vagcom. Finally had the injection pump replaced and now it runs better than new. So my question is what the hell went bad with the pump????
Hi webslinger Great video! I disassembled my rd28t pump to fit 11mm plunger. Got it back together but no fuel out of delivery pipes. Solenoid works correctly. I'm insure if i may have the cam plate (think that's what it's called) 180 degrees out. Would this effect fuel flow or would it just fire the opposite fuel delivery pipe? Thanks for your assistance!
I didn't install my knock pin to keyway when I rebuilt my pump. My car is locked to tdc.
Do I still need to take it apart and do it because car will not start ?
Hi
Thank you for this awesome video.I did what you are showing, now i get a problem to start my engine up. My car is a Volkswagen golf 3 Tdi 90 PS. I have no gazoline out ot my pump, i mean the pump seems not to push the diesel till the injectors.
Do you have any idea about the breakdown ?
Regards
If it's an electronic pump, Adjustment is thru the head.Maybe you've set to low. Or it's not installed properly.
Basically, if it's good enough to hold the shims and plunger guides in place(on the hydraulic head). That should be enough. Careful not to put too much though. You might clog the inlet strainer.
@joao It's not glue, it's grease.
hello and i have just a question and what is that " red " fluid that you use in hydraulic head?? i think its some especial glue but im not sure and would like you please confirm me that , and thankx for this video
Superb assemble very nice tnks for uploading this video keep it up
Kick Me Thanks!
webslinger2011 my name salman
Brilliant video thank you. Followed both videos putting mine back together. Just put it back on the engine but it fires for a second then cuts out. Any ideas? No plunger in the solenoid, seperate fuel supply, vanes all free in the pump.
Feed Pump liner in correct orientation? Does pressurized fuel come out when cranking?
You brave, brave man!
Hi,The video was very useful and i really learned a lot from it.When i have a fuel pump that is leaking fuel i normally take it to a specialist to replace the seals but now thanks to this video i can do it my self.The only thing about the video is that when you are assembling something important you are out of the picture and we can't see how exactly to assemble.Another thing is where to buy the special sockets you use on the pump.Other wise its great.Thank you
ok man i undestand you but thats not what im asking , i mean i dont undestand that " grease" material , i have to gett that but i even dont know what to ask here in a shop case i dont undestand the mean of grease ...thats my problem and can you explain me whats that or where basicly that thing usually have aplication?
ok but now im portuguese and i went to translate the woard grease and i got some things howeveer i will have to ask you some help if you can be more especificy whit that grease because i dont have ideia what produt is or how can i ask in the shop....i will have to open my head and i falow your video here , now i just need to gett that grease so the job woarks fine ..thankx for your attencion
Basically if the grease is light enough to dissolve in diesel, it should be fine.
Can you give me some advise please? I was replacing rubber seal on a hydraulic cover and somehow I manage to broke the spacer of the plunger end. Can you please tell me what to do and does this pump is still for use?
Broke the small round spacer on top of the plunger? Replacing it would require taking K and KF measurement (Technical stuff based on Calibration data). If you're referring to the copper gasket on the other end(on the 3 sided plug of the rotorhead), There's plenty you can buy from diesel injection shops.
Thank you again for your patience and help. I done it and there is no a single drop of fuel. Do you have some video of adjusting the wrong degree?
Check the overflow valve. It should be placed on the top cover and not on the inlet side of the pump.
Iv marc Have you resolved it?
this pump it's the one on the alh engine?
Hi there.
I have replaced both timer cover O rings & the thermos wax O ring as well as the Distributive head O ring on my VE4 injector pump on my Hilux Surf.
On fitting to the vehicle I found that I could prime diesel into the pump body but not out the delivery side to the injectors.
I notice that in the Toyota service manual it recommends not tilting the pump past 45 degrees.
I am wondering if in replacing the rear O ring where I had to tip the pump on end to stop the innards falling out I have upset something inside.
Can you please help me?
Check for a loose wire on the shut-off solenoid. Did you put an 8mm shim on the cold start device before placing it back? There would be a problem if you forced it back in.
Thanks for the tips God blezs
@Sunil Look on the engine cover or on the chasis. If there's nothing there, refer to your service manual.
Dear Sir, I have a problem with calibration of bosch pump with the engine... I saw a lot of videos with dial gauge calibration while the pump is fully attached to engine, and I don't find that as a good way to do it.
In videos they find one zero point (of four) and assume that this is the wright one and rotate pump for 0,8mm front while the engine is in zero point.
I would appreciate any comment, regards.
Pump has to be timed on the engine. Zero point on the pump means the plunger is at it's lowest position. You will notice the gauge moves in advance then retards towards the lowest point when you rotate the engine's crankshaft. The moment it starts to move in advance is the zero point. Procedure is often stated in the manual. Some need to put a spacer if equipped with a cold start device.
I will set engin to zero, then loose the fuel pipes on engine and see what's happening when turning bosch pump ... i will roughly set it on first , then adjust it by gauge on 0,8 mm forward
What should be the right thickness of that spacer? Or do I need to put the one with same measurements? Does it effect the proper functioning of the engine?
Iv marc Too much thickness will damage the rotor. Too little will lag injection timing. I suggest watching my other video explaining the inner workings of the pump.
Iv marc Proper measurement of K and KF dimension must be observed to select the right thickness needed. It would be best to let diesel shops to fix it. Doin it your way is not advisable.As always, I won't be held liable to other people's actions.
hello i need a workshop manual for zexel bosh pump ve4 can you help me?
Thank u sir nice video
hello I have a 1992 dodge with the ve pump, and its leaking fuel out of the bottom of the housing which I think is connected to timer piston.
Worn O-ring can cause a leak. If the pump hasn’t been serviced in years, chances are the seals are worn.
It is small one on top of the plunger, with a small-diameter hole in the middle. So just to take measurements of it and replace it with the right one and that's it? Thank you and excellent educational video. by the way.
It wears over time. That's why you must follow as per calibration data. Thanks!
mic the broken button order the same size, if there is little power at full throttle and fuel pressure is at its max, order the next size in button (shim ) .02 mm thick. that will bring back fuel delivery at injectors(assuming injectors are good). saves time and money for shop to repair it. 1500 is our norm charge here.
Yes. I run the test light.
Iv marc Open all the lines to the injectors. Crank engine to see if fuel comes out of the pump. Hope it's not 180 degrees out of sync.
What would cause the pump to prevent fuel flow through the rear output lines up to the injectors when cranking or priming? Will only pressurise the return line back to the tank.
plungers are stuck
@@johnnybegoodyeah Solenoid plunger could also be sticking.
Quisiera que dijeran lo que se hace en cada momento.
I rebuilt the pump the same as yours ( just the top bit where springs and rollers are.
Recorded it and bled the pump and my engine will not start. But runs fine on easy start spray
Did you bleed the injector lines? You might have an airlock?
Did you ever figure out the problem as I'm having same issue on my skid steer and I don't think anything in that part needs to be clocked/ timed
awesome video, I manage to service my ve injection pump but have run in a problem now. engine starts on starter fuel and goes to high rpms instantly and stay high. when accelerator is pressed rpm drops slightly. what I must have gone wrong with?
Might be something wrong between the governor lever and control sleeve on the hydraulic head. It should slide freely during assembly. Also, Tiny specs of dirt inside is bad for the pump.
outstanding video!! it must take a genius to engineer stuff like this. i have a problem with my Perkins engine that quit running. i cleaned out the lift pump, cleaned & blasted air through all the tubes, removed & dismantled all the injectors (of which all were filthy) yet still wont run.
the only thing left is the injector pump. i removed the high pressure side tube & at best the pump spit fuel only 2-3ft. that seems a bit weak for ~1,700psi. if i can find a rebuild kit for it, would that fix it or is it damaged beyond that point?
also, are there any critical torque settings? cast aluminum is mighty touchy. Thanks once again for making this video, it has been invaluable!!!
That fuel squirting can be misleading. It’s not volume, it’s pressure. If you,re getting fuel out of the port, then it’s pumping fuel. If the pump is on the engine, put the high psi line on, attach to injector, see if it gets wet at the injector. If so, tighten the nuts on all the lines and crank engine. If it’s putting fuel in the engine, you should see smoke at the exhaust.
Common wear items on the ve pump are, gov weights, drive shaft bushing, throttle bushing.there’s a big soft plug on the head that’s supposed to be replaced every time the pump is overhauled. These are about the best, most durable pumps out there. Usually they came in because of leaking, not performance.
pls add direction to order ve type rotary pump spareparts
@Jack See my other video explaining VE pump parts and functions.
I have a problem with this type of pump. It is for a marine application. The engine was commissioned in 2012 and has done 90hrs. The fuel filters have been changed each year by a yanmar agent. The filters were clean on service ie no water or any other contamination. On this particular day the engine had run for three hours at various speeds. When we entered the marina the engine was put into neutral ie tick over. Within a matter of 10 seconds the engine started to misfire. This happened for approx. 5 seconds. The engine then started to pick up speed and kept going past the max and then slow to stop.It stopped because the pistons hit the valves etc. The pump was clean inside virtually new the fuel bobbin has seized to the shaft and bent the governor fulcram so allowing it to aver rev. Are you able to give me some idea of what could have caused this. All I can think at this time when slowing from 1200 revs to 600 revs (tickover) the fuel bobbin would have closed the fuel flow and the shaft would have maybe run dry and started to seize.Any help would be appreciated.
If the engine sat for a very long time, these VE pumps get rusted internally. Wear is another factor, but mainly dirt or water contamination can cause the control sleeve to seize.
it would be great if you could explain in written or speaking in this video presentation. thanks
I am fascinated and want to learn more...
Nice one Best wishes 🛠️🚜
Thanks!
how to set r p m not dawon i meen rpm50 loding in i want 50 50 not dawon rpm i want stand rpm i want one stand rpm not low rpm
Hi, great videos I'm learning a lot. I have a ZEXEL VE pump but need it to operate in the opposite direction. Whats parts do I need to change to achieve this? Thanks
Repair center's rely on a database to locate specific parts for a particular pump. It would be hard to find(if not impossible) all the needed parts for the conversion. The pump housing in particular is designed for one direction only. Either fixed for right or left rotation. Rotor head has a right or left orientation as well.
@@webslinger2011 thanks for the info.
Buena la explicación me gustaría ver bomba más clásica
I check it already immediately and it's working properly. There is clicking sound.
Is there power going in the stop solenoid when you crank the engine?
Привет с 2021 года! С 1Мая!
thank you
Thank you so much for the quick and thorough answers. Fro the workshop gave me the exact thickness of the spacer. I assembled the pump and install it on the car. When I was trying to start the engine there wasn't any fuel coming at the injectors, at all. Not a single drop. But the fuel is coming into the pump. Any idea?
I assume it's a VE pump. Check the stop solenoid at the back of the pump. Disconnect and supply power. If you hear a clicking sound, then it's working.
You're the best.
Thanks!
Thank you poh sa video sir..
You're welcome.
Why i never have the same idle,sometimes is 600 sometimes 800 or 1000 rpm ? Golf mk2 diesel
Can be pump ?
Check for restrictions on the fuel line. Fuel filters. Accelerator cable.
Yes, there is power.
is there enough power to turn on a test light?
Excellent.
hai can anyone show me the wire connection diesel pump for Mitsubishi storm l200...pls
The pump is completely full with fuel. Even the inlet channel and the entire chamber where the plunger sits. When I am turning the plunger by hand inside the head it makes pressure, but when I assemble the pump nothing.
Did you dismantle only the top part of the pump?
I removed only the cylinder head, to replace leaking seal.
you mean the top cover?
Hello, i have a discovery 300tdi and when i take down the timing belt i notice that the bosch pump pulley moves a litle bit back and forward ( axial play). It is normal?
As long as it gets tight when you turn, then it does the same about 90 degrees, its fine. Have a look at my other vid explaining the inner parts of the VE.
@@webslinger2011 thank you
Sir Ji tata indigo ecs engine pump diesel axi liter spring say diesel likej ho Raha hei
I have one of these pumps on a Nissan LD20 engine used in a boat. The engine needs to crank for about a minute before it fires. Once it is running, it behaves well, responds to the throttle and runs well under load. . Fuel filters and lines are all clear. I had a tech look at it - he pronounced "water damage" , recommeded fuel additive and was going to look at it until he tested positive for covid 19 and has now dropped off the radar. I hope he's alright - he's a nice guy. If I disconnect the injector fuel lines and crank it, very little fuel comes out. It's almost like the feed pump isn't building up pressure. Is there any way to measure this pressure
?
It's supposed to deliver more fuel during start. Seems plunger may be worn.
@@webslinger2011 Thanks for your reply. I take it, this needs a new pump - is it normal that these available as reconditioned units?
@@GraemeSPa Yes, reconditioned pumps usually have internal parts that been replaced to bring it back to specifications.
@@webslinger2011 thanks
Can you tell me where to check the feed pump output pressure?
We put a special fitting at the outlet side on the top cover of the pump and connect a pressure gauge in between the pump and the overflow bolt to measure pressure on VE pumps.
On start, my engine idles, but does not respond to the throttle, I have to get over 1.200 rpm by 'bumping' before it works. Espace with VE turbo. mech pump. As long as I keep it over 1200 it works fine, just fancy footwork to keep it there in traffic.
Any clues, before I strip it down?
Thanks
Andrew Eckford check accelerator cable. Might be stretched. Opening the pump must be the last option. Also, a sticky control sleeve on the plunger might be a cause as well.
Thanks for getting back. Not the cable, the quadrant goes to the stop with no effect. It has to be something Inside. Giving it a go tomorrow and will let you know.
Well, had the top off in situe and could see no obvious probs like broken springs or other parts. So put it back together and will look for a s/h pump, as the local 'specialists' are arm & leg prices. Changing it envolves pulling the front off the car, so trying a look was worth it. It happened quite suddenly and is consistent, so a sticking sleave does not sound likely.
To add, it has a switch on the quadrant that turns on (or off?) after the first bit of movement and three wires to the plastic cover that is over the stop solenoid. Any chance that these can influence things? I would have thought not, but..
That might be an anti theft device over the solenoid. Nope it won't cause that problem. I would check if there's enough pressure building inside the pump.
I have a 1998 Nissan Terrano II does anyone know if the metering block mg/str is the same on all these VE pump most videos are showing reseal on 1.9 VW how do you adjust a metering block without OBDII port any old school way ?
It uses and electronic governor. Adjustment is by a "hair's thread". It would be bad if you get it wrong.
I asked Igor? about the mg/str setting for a 2.7 L as his video is a 1.9 engine. Adjustment using vag.com through OBDII port says the setting is between 3 and 4 i am a where of the the hammer adjustment and have seen a Russian use a altimeter / resistance for this adjustment I was hoping Igor would know. I will not be giving a diesel mechanic my pump to rip me off on a seal kit repair as my pump runs fine apart from a top seal leak
Geoffrey Barton for an edc or covec pump not only requires a controller but the pump's calibration data. The insides is different from the ordinary mechanical pump. Besides, a leaking top cover means the seals are already brittle.
And what kind of grease, red? What is the name and code. Do not hurt the plunger it at work.
Light grease will work. As long as it dissolves in diesel.
Very good. Fron in Brasil.
Thanks!
Asembal me Jo itam lagta hai us itam ya samagri ko spich dorra asembal kre
Nice job.
one thing is bothering me. I have a 1.9 ALH and the injection pump is making a strange noise:
th-cam.com/video/u8rxoJqV7c4/w-d-xo.html
could be this due to the constant bubles that are circulating in the fuel line?
thanks.
I removed the part of the to which the pipes of the injectors are screwed.
Delivery Valve holders?
Watch my other video explaining the ve pump
Next video assembly plzz sir
Hey that vid was really use full,thanks, regards bhoward
i have a problem......... that there is a fuel leak from the drive shoft .. i need a help to solve this problem if one can hep please !!
If it’s a belt driven pump, then the belt was too tight, causing the drive shaft to rub hard on one side of bushing.very common. Needs a new bushing. Can only be done by a specialist.on gear driven pumps, we never saw this problem.
What cause diesel leaking into oil
For VE pumps, a worn drive shaft or seal is one.
แหวนกันรุนยังไม่ใส่เลย...?
mui buenoo
Many important details were not filmed ‘ please repeat an other video with more details for the correct adjustment
Any help please ? All set to tdc
You'd have to remove and dismantle the pump again. Driveshaft keyway must align on the cam plate's knock pin. Otherwise, it won't start.
nice
Hola amigos tengo una bonba de un motor 2L queno me trabaja en bajas iprende con maña quien sería capas de ayudarme
Sorry can't understand well. Using google translate.
se e sesera sola la bonba
Kenny Mercedes .
Nissan cd 17 pumo or td seeries
I didn't.
Bonjour j'aime votre métier si vous pouvez m'envoyer votre adresse comple et électronique je suis en RDC
Webslinger Why would it be bad if i get it wrong ? It is a very simple procedure to replace the top metering block seals. If i mark the metering block on three sides before removing it when reinstalling the metering block it should be within the same values mg/str 2- 4 mg/str for a 1.9 L engine
. when reinstalling the metering block you must make sure that the metering arm lines up with the hole in the governor. If you miss the hole in the installation of this process the car will over rpm on start indicating that you have missed the hole. This will not damage the pump but you will need to open and reinstall. For bad mg/str this will deliver more or less fuel . More will use excessive fuel bad economy and blow smoke and less will lean the engine which will cause the engine to run hot. Before the age of computers this was done how? do you know how Your video is interesting but does not cover a none mechanical VE pump . My original Question was if you have an answer is ? IS a 1.9L ve pump mg/str the same as a 2.7L engine .
Geoffrey Barton Short answer: 1.9L is totally different from a 2.7. It requires more fuel. As you have mentioned, an engine overrun might damage your engine. Setting too little and you won't be able to start. I guess you know how to work things out. As always I will not liable for anything.
I've have always used a bench controller on a covec pump to set and not on the engine.
Weblinger is this your name what do i call you? Thanks for the reply . I understand your concerns and appreciate your input and don't hold any one responsible for my actions. Unfortunately i am in the middle of Australia and getting the Nissan Terrano II 1998 to a diesel mechanic is not a option . So i am left with a bush fix and my mechanical ability to sort this out. Luckily their are videos online to only guide me through the process. VAGCOMS would be great if this model had a OBDII port but it doesn't so i have to take a chance when setting it and as you have said too little would give low power and too much would increase smoke. I was only hoping that an old diesel mechanic would know another way to gauge this quantity meter. Are you in Australia?..... I have ordered a running second hand Pump, if all fails. I would be happy to have you recondition my old one if you are in Australia?...... Until then your knowledge and input is always welcome .
At this stage the seals are in and the car but it will not start. Is low cracking a factor or just the quantity meter set to low or a combination of the two ..... I am forced to buy a new starter motor as i have ruled out the battery being the issue . I have cracked open the injectors to bleed them and no signs of fuel is ejected. In all the videos i have seen bleeding the injectors is not necessary when replacing top seals only is this true or false?...... Once again your input is valued and appreciated as a guide only.
Also in the case of over run at start this would be done with hands on the ignition key ready to stop before a over run could happen
Sorry, but I've left Oz. Mechanical pumps deliver excess fuel for starting. Same applies on covec pumps such as yours. Cranking speed to about 200rpm on the engine. You can move the governor a tiny bit closer to the rotor head for more fuel. Not necessary to bleed the injectors unless you've loosened up the lines. Have you heard of MTQ engine systems? They have a few branches around Australia or you could find Gary or ibby at Hi-tech Diesel in Adelaide.
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Hi, Could you please tell me what the start of injection timing should be
(in crank angle BTDC) for an IDI engine. What should should it be
at fully retarded (low idle) and at max rpm. Thanks