Believe it or not my dad taught me shoot on his brownbess musket. 20 years later and many guns later the old Bess is still my go to gun for a fun day on the range. Thank you mike, loving this series!
I like the Harper Ferry 1832 with shortened barrel and percussion upgrade. Nice in the bush and a .69 cal, shooting .672 round balls in paper cartridges makes for a good day.
Yes modern arms are better in every way but that doesn’t take away from what a front stuffer can do! Same power you just use more powder and accurate as can be! The only drawback is you gotta load it every single round but thats just what they had back then, Im grateful for them because they made what guns are today!! Much respect!
Well after seeing this video I polished the note of my Fowler …. I too found it a little rough toward the muzzle now it’s shined and super smooth. Thanks Mike
I think this is the second video of yours I’ve seen where you polished the bore. That’s a lot of work, but worth it. Thanks for the instructional video.
Mike, Thank you for the information you presented on polishing and burnishing the bore. I use a .715 round ball with lubed paper in my Bess and can keep 4 of 5 hits within a 7in circle at 25yds using 120grs of 2f powder. I am definitely going to follow your information on polishing the bore and go to a .690 round ball. Keep up with your great videos!!! They are the highlight of my week! Steve
Great video, i have a Hawken 50 cal that gave me the same problem. i could get off 3 rounds then it would be hard to load. I started using a thinner and well lubed patch on the ball, which resulted in a better seal and better accuracy.
I know it's a bit late to answer but whatever. Hawken .45 here, had the same issue. Started to use thinner patches which I dipped in a solution made of 1 part ballistol, 7 parts water. Patches are not wet but damp. Now I am able to shoot 30ish times without having to clean the barrel. Love my hawken to bits.
I'm sure they wont be happy with us if we show up to do the woods walk with ol' bess looks to pulverize whatever that ball hits. Thank you for all of the material you've put together on this particular longarm it's been very helpful.
A great tutorial on how to improve the barrel of a smoothbore musket. I learned a lot and have 2 muskets that may benefit from a polish. I've watched several of your videos and enjoy all of them, especially the black powder ones.
Excellent presentation. I agree with your opinions on tactics and aiming. I shot an exact replica of the Lewis and Clark air rifle. It hit a small target at 50 yards.
I've shot a short naval brown bess accurately at up to 50 yards. It's not a tack driver but at 50 yards it will consistently hit a 1 foot by 1 foot solid steel plate from 50 yards away
Hmmm, I have that same issue with my 1853 British Enfield . I think I’ll get out the steel wool and the scrubber pad to do the same thing! Never thought of doing that before
When I was going thru the Mountain Phase of Ranger Training at Camp Merrill, the locals in Dahlonega, who were NOT very fond of what they called Federal Troops, but somehow took a shine to me; probably because I was a gun nut and a black powder enthusiast. (They also hadn't seen many Marines at that Army School...) I saw many Winchester 94's and '95 carbines a whole lot of military surplus (I do so Love Krag Carbines!!!) One acquaintance was a bearded gentleman who displayed his Brown Bess smooth bore which did my heart good!!! I'm sure this man was up against Winchester Model 70's Remington Model 700's and Ruger M77's but I was told he got his deer every year, as did his Father, and his Father, and his Father, and his Father etc. That was 1975, I don't believe they had a Black Powder Season yet but in those heavy woods, like it or not, they had the final word, no they were the final word. (They called paper targets Shermans.) I hope when the Good Lord calls me home I get to see them again.
Pedersoli and Uberti make some nice guns but they don't seem to take enough time to do things like properly polishing the bore as in your case. Great video!
Another great video Mike. I enjoy all your videos, but have really gotten a lot out of your recent smoothbore episodes. They have helped me get my new 28 gauge fowler ready for deer season. I have been pleasantly surprised by my round ball accuracy and have put to use many of your tips and suggestions. After watching this I am going to polish and burnish the bore as well. Thank you!
I shot my carbine version at 50 yards from a bench and bag, three groups of five on a 11x8.5" piece of paper. Two groups were five for five on, the other was four of five. All fifteen shots being military paper cartridged .69 caliber roundball with 120gr of Goex FF, 16gr FFFF in the pan. No cleaning in-between groups.
I bought one of Pedersoli's Brown Bess kits and they drilled out the ramrod pipe pin holes all crooked so there wasn't but a 6th of an inch of wood holding them on. I'd be afraid to draw or replace the ramrod with any kind of urgency in fear of cracking the stock. The touch hole was also positioned at the base of the pan just like yours.
I tear my paper cartridges with my fingers. Holding cartridge and barrel in one hand tear with other. I know historically mouth tearing is correct, but I don't need the paper taste. After I watched hour video using the scouring pads I used scouring pads on my rifle and it helped loading also.
You put so much work into Italian guns to improve them. For the benefit of the thousands of black powder enthusiast who buy them. I would like to see what you could do with an Inda made musket. There are several companies that import them. They are not that expensive which is why people buy them. Thanks for all you do. John Davis Jax Fl
At the beginning I thought you were going to use valve grinding grease on a patch like you would if you were lapping a rifle barrel. Looks like you did it right though.
A friend of mine has a Fusil de Tulle custom built I forget the gun smith who did it for him but it is a very accurate musket with a patched ball. It has the turtle front sight like most the Tulle musket but Jerry has a rear sight on it also. My 1816 war fairly accurate (pederosoli) and so is my Armi Sport 1842. I sold the 1816 sorry I did but I wanted an 1876 Winchester on 45-60 but I swapped it for an 1860 Henry by Uberti, You helped my figure out how to cut down 45-70 brass to make 45-60. that worked out great
I have one, going from cartridge guns to this, the delay in videos doesn't seem like a whole lot, but trust me it takes a lot of practice because when you're the one shooting the delay feels like forever.
Hi Mike! Great job with your Bess! I would love for you to demo/explain your sight picture/hold for this weapon...since it has no rear sight. I'm not as consistent when live shooting and aiming with my Brown Bess. Some of it is a little flinching I'm sure, but it is also getting an established sight picture/hold with only the front bayonet lug to guide me. You seem to be putting them right in there, so how are you aiming to compensate for no rear sight? Thanks much!!
I've shot several deer over the years with 68 cal. round balls and there simply leave a hole where they passed through. Same as shooting them with a 12 gauge slug.
Looks great! You always get the best out of your guns while being informative and engaging. The average soldier didn't have a musket as well polished as yours is now. The Bess and Charleville muskets were chosen for rate of fire(3 to 4 per minute) not so much accuracy. I have read accounts of cartridges made with smaller ball to account for many more shots before barrel fouling made loading the musket problematic. The manual of arms I have seen(Von Steuben's Blue book page 17), had the soldier prime the pan before charging the barrel. So getting a consistent charge on the barrel was unlikely. By the same token, some table hunters or market hunters may have gone to more pains to squeeze accuracy out of their muskets. If they couldn't get enough accuracy, they would load "Buck n Ball" to wound an animal sufficiently to assure harvesting.
I love your content. You make me want to get into muskets. I already shoot cap and ball revolvers, but now you have me interested in flintlocks and swords. Take care!
Italians have a long, 3 hour lunch" at about 1 pm. You may have gotten your Brown Bess from the afternoon shift. I'm thinking of getting the Brown Bess To ndians Trade musket. I like the idea of having the option of shot or ball.
I wonder if that process done to a lesser extent would help a rifled piece. I had a few .50 cal long rifles some you could shoot all day long without cleaning and some you would have to swab it out after two shots because of how hard it was to load.
I was checking out those flex hones for a slightly pitted Damascus shotgun I want to shoot black powder shells from, but they are ungodly expensive for a home hobbyist working on a cheap old gun. I like your technique and am going this route, thanks! I wonder if following up the burnishing with degreasing and some cold bluing in the bore might further prevent corrosive action, especially with home brew primers I'm using?
I saw a video recently that showed a young man loading with paper cartridges. He said everyone is doing it wrong. He put the ball in first , then tore off the extra paper. I did some research and there was some supporting text of this approach. It would seem that loading all of the paper cartridge under the ball does not seat the ball firmly against the powder and could or would lead to air spaces or voids in the loaded charge. I have no experience in this matter , my question is merely from observation. What do you think ?
after watching your vids on the Bess I searched youtube for more and found one Hickok45 did a while back and in a closeup it looks like his Bess has a low touch hole as well. Also its looked like his was an India pattern Bess, I think thats what the shorter one is called.
Have you ever tried saturating a patch with lapping compound and grease/oil? It worked well on my Ruger Flat Top's forcing cone... though using lead bullets and no patch.
Nice shooting Mike! Does the brown bess have a rear sight (seems like those old muskets didn't have one - am I correct)? Do you just become adept at using the front sight, or is there a recommended way to sight in a target?
Most all military smoothbore muskets only have a front sight, much like shotguns, that doubled as a bayonet lug, it wasn't until you came across a rifled musket that you'd get both a front and rear sight
I just got this gun and it’s my first flintlock. No rear sight but windage is pretty easy because you can align the front sight with the tang that you can see just below the front sight when looking down. As for elevation, I’m still figuring out what the correct reference to the tang is for elevation when looking down the barrel.
@@duelist1954 eras gone used to carry one but it was pointed not the domed and hollow and long discontinued. I've seen lots of mutterings mover the years that a Lyman 2654012 foster mould is quite close to the original. I'll ask around at the club!
Always informative. So is there ever a need to use lube for a smoothbore? Or is it only rifled barrels that tend to need lube to keep fouling soft? Obviously it is hard to incorporate lube into a paper cartridge. But would you be using a lube on the Brown Bess if you were loading individual components? I always use a lube for my percussion revolvers, but I don't own a smoothbore (yet) so I'm a little confused about when it is necessary to use a lube. I realize that lube is always optional (I've shot my revolvers without lube for a few shots), but I'm curious about what the experts have to say on the subject. Obviously, shooters can choose to use lube or spit when shooting patched round ball in competitions or on the range. But given that a lot of countries used paper cartridges during wars, there would have been no lube being used in many battles and evidently that was just fine. Can you add your thoughts on the subject?
Mike I'm wondering if your Brown Bess is a #1 0r a #2 ? Plus I'm wondering if your musket is an older model, I have a #2 that is a whole lot brighter exterior polish on the barrel is like it was chrome plated, plus mine was purchased in 2019, from Dixie Gun works. Also would using a longer rod attachment with carbide lapping compound give you a finer end result quicker. Great video, I really enjoy your show!
That’s a great smoking habit ya got Mike!😉👍 How does that ramrod stay in mike? It looks like a real sloppy fit in the tube... is there a mechanism that retains it?
Believe it or not my dad taught me shoot on his brownbess musket. 20 years later and many guns later the old Bess is still my go to gun for a fun day on the range. Thank you mike, loving this series!
I agree, the Pedersoli Brown Bess is loads of fun. I would also recommend their Hapers Ferry Model 1816 musket as well.
I like the Harper Ferry 1832 with shortened barrel and percussion upgrade. Nice in the bush and a .69 cal, shooting .672 round balls in paper cartridges makes for a good day.
That thing shoots like a boss Mike. Thanks for sharing.
An hour of burnishing? Oof, that sounds tiring but the results speak for themselves.
I was like, Did he just say an HOUR? *REWINDS* YES, yes he did.
With results like this? I'd pay two hours gladly :))
An hour really isnt that long, ive gotten lost in work before and came out of the shop with the sunrise.
Yes modern arms are better in every way but that doesn’t take away from what a front stuffer can do! Same power you just use more powder and accurate as can be! The only drawback is you gotta load it every single round but thats just what they had back then, Im grateful for them because they made what guns are today!! Much respect!
Every round is, at least can be, a custom round.
Enough power in the right circumstances sure, but nowhere near the same as modern. I take your meaning tho.
So knowledgeable and so generous! Thank you Mike for sharing your treasure trove of knowledge.
Wow! Impressive accuracy from a smooth bore!
Thanks Mike, Another fun day at the Dualist Den
Been shooting muzzle loaders for 45 years and I'm still learning new stuff. Your an excellent resource and a great teacher.
Well after seeing this video I polished the note of my Fowler …. I too found it a little rough toward the muzzle now it’s shined and super smooth. Thanks Mike
Thanks for the great video. We are never too old to learn new tricks. 'Old and Wise has the Eyes.'....Tim
I think this is the second video of yours I’ve seen where you polished the bore. That’s a lot of work, but worth it. Thanks for the instructional video.
Mike,
Thank you for the information you presented on polishing and burnishing the bore. I use a .715 round ball with lubed paper in my Bess and can keep 4 of 5 hits within a 7in circle at 25yds using 120grs of 2f powder. I am definitely going to follow your information on polishing the bore and go to a .690 round ball.
Keep up with your great videos!!! They are the highlight of my week!
Steve
Great tutorial.
Can’t wait for your practical accuracy test.
Great video, i have a Hawken 50 cal that gave me the same problem. i could get off 3 rounds then it would be hard to load. I started using a thinner and well lubed patch on the ball, which resulted in a better seal and better accuracy.
I know it's a bit late to answer but whatever. Hawken .45 here, had the same issue. Started to use thinner patches which I dipped in a solution made of 1 part ballistol, 7 parts water. Patches are not wet but damp. Now I am able to shoot 30ish times without having to clean the barrel. Love my hawken to bits.
I'm impressed. Enough said.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the polishing & burnishing processes.
I'm sure they wont be happy with us if we show up to do the woods walk with ol' bess looks to pulverize whatever that ball hits. Thank you for all of the material you've put together on this particular longarm it's been very helpful.
A great tutorial on how to improve the barrel of a smoothbore musket. I learned a lot and have 2 muskets that may benefit from a polish. I've watched several of your videos and enjoy all of them, especially the black powder ones.
Great info . I have done similar to a used Hawken I got but I used Tooth paste and also some of my wife’s emulsifying cream , very minimal grit .
fixed, and you hit that small target, great job all around.
Excellent presentation. I agree with your opinions on tactics and aiming. I shot an exact replica of the Lewis and Clark air rifle. It hit a small target at 50 yards.
Thank you Mike for answering my question on the Griswald & Gunnison.
Glad you mentioned this during your talk yesterday at Fort Loudoun. I missed it when you originally posted it. I will need to try it
Thank you for your videos! Your awesome knowledge taught me so much about these guns and now I have several including an original 1771 brown bess!
I miss “the bad guys view.”
It would have been interesting to have seen some before and after photos of the inside of the barrel, to see how much the barrel changed.
The changes are nearly microscopic, but the ifference in loading ease is obvious to the shooter
I've shot a short naval brown bess accurately at up to 50 yards. It's not a tack driver but at 50 yards it will consistently hit a 1 foot by 1 foot solid steel plate from 50 yards away
Great video Mike, thanks!
Hmmm, I have that same issue with my 1853 British Enfield . I think I’ll get out the steel wool and the scrubber pad to do the same thing! Never thought of doing that before
Another great video Mike. Thanks. I love my Pedersoli Brown Bess also.
Awesome video Mike! Really enjoying these brown bess videos I really have a soft spot for these 1700s type firearms.
Nice shooting!
When I was going thru the Mountain Phase of Ranger Training at Camp Merrill, the locals in Dahlonega, who were NOT very fond of what they called Federal Troops, but somehow took a shine to me; probably because I was a gun nut and a black powder enthusiast. (They also hadn't seen many Marines at that Army School...) I saw many Winchester 94's and '95 carbines a whole lot of military surplus (I do so Love Krag Carbines!!!) One acquaintance was a bearded gentleman who displayed his Brown Bess smooth bore which did my heart good!!! I'm sure this man was up against Winchester Model 70's Remington Model 700's and Ruger M77's but I was told he got his deer every year, as did his Father, and his Father, and his Father, and his Father etc. That was 1975, I don't believe they had a Black Powder Season yet but in those heavy woods, like it or not, they had the final word, no they were the final word. (They called paper targets Shermans.) I hope when the Good Lord calls me home I get to see them again.
Good job Mike!
That bess is thunderous
Mike! Thank you so much, I know I was not supposed to do this to an original Brown Bess but I did this and by God it is very accurate!
Pedersoli and Uberti make some nice guns but they don't seem to take enough time to do things like properly polishing the bore as in your case. Great video!
I would have used a cloth mop (like the steel wool one) and a generous helping of Solvol Autosol (chrome polish) to finish up with.
Impressive results
Is it possible for a video to make you want a flintlock? YES YES I want a Brown Bess!! Love your videos sir I’ll be back for sure
Another great video Mike. I enjoy all your videos, but have really gotten a lot out of your recent smoothbore episodes. They have helped me get my new 28 gauge fowler ready for deer season. I have been pleasantly surprised by my round ball accuracy and have put to use many of your tips and suggestions. After watching this I am going to polish and burnish the bore as well. Thank you!
Odd, Pedersoli is very proud of their barrel making.
Great video Mike, I love the Bess.
Eagerly awaiting the video where you see how far the Bess can shoot accurately
I shot my carbine version at 50 yards from a bench and bag, three groups of five on a 11x8.5" piece of paper. Two groups were five for five on, the other was four of five. All fifteen shots being military paper cartridged .69 caliber roundball with 120gr of Goex FF, 16gr FFFF in the pan. No cleaning in-between groups.
I scrubbed my Lyman GPR 54 caliber with the 3m pad before re I ever shot it. It is as slick as can be and loads as baby as you can stand.
Great video! I’ve wanted a smoothbore trade musket or officer’s fusil for a while now, and you may have just pushed me over the edge.
I bought one of Pedersoli's Brown Bess kits and they drilled out the ramrod pipe pin holes all crooked so there wasn't but a 6th of an inch of wood holding them on. I'd be afraid to draw or replace the ramrod with any kind of urgency in fear of cracking the stock. The touch hole was also positioned at the base of the pan just like yours.
Good shooting Mike. Thanks
as always, a good video mike,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I tried the 3M method on my new GPR fainter. Haven't shot it yet, but you can tell the bore gets smoother from less resistance when swabbing it.
I tear my paper cartridges with my fingers. Holding cartridge and barrel in one hand tear with other. I know historically mouth tearing is correct, but I don't need the paper taste.
After I watched hour video using the scouring pads I used scouring pads on my rifle and it helped loading also.
Actually, tearing the cartridge by hand was standard for the British army. The colonial and French used their teeth.
Very Enjoyable. Thank you Mike . Love to watch you shoot. And swordplay. All the things im intrested in. Have a Great Week. Joe.
Great fun!
Thanks.
Nice shots and you did an awesome job on the bore. I'm impressed.
You put so much work into Italian guns to improve them.
For the benefit of the thousands of black powder enthusiast who buy them. I would like to see what you could do with an Inda made musket.
There are several companies that import them. They are not that expensive which is why people buy them.
Thanks for all you do.
John Davis Jax Fl
Okay now I'm on a mission to own a brown bes great video.
At the beginning I thought you were going to use valve grinding grease on a patch like you would if you were lapping a rifle barrel. Looks like you did it right though.
A friend of mine has a Fusil de Tulle custom built I forget the gun smith who did it for him but it is a very accurate musket with a patched ball. It has the turtle front sight like most the Tulle musket but Jerry has a rear sight on it also. My 1816 war fairly accurate (pederosoli) and so is my Armi Sport 1842. I sold the 1816 sorry I did but I wanted an 1876 Winchester on 45-60 but I swapped it for an 1860 Henry by Uberti, You helped my figure out how to cut down 45-70 brass to make 45-60. that worked out great
Great video! I would love to see what that bore looks like after all that work.
I have one, going from cartridge guns to this, the delay in videos doesn't seem like a whole lot, but trust me it takes a lot of practice because when you're the one shooting the delay feels like forever.
I've shot flintlocks for over 40 years. The lock time doesn't ever feel slow to me.
Always enjoy your videos
Hi Mike! Great job with your Bess! I would love for you to demo/explain your sight picture/hold for this weapon...since it has no rear sight. I'm not as consistent when live shooting and aiming with my Brown Bess. Some of it is a little flinching I'm sure, but it is also getting an established sight picture/hold with only the front bayonet lug to guide me. You seem to be putting them right in there, so how are you aiming to compensate for no rear sight? Thanks much!!
Excellent tutorial Mike, great info thanks...
I am waiting right now for Dixie to send me my Pedersoli Brown Bess and I am looking forward to it for sure.
Very cool Mike.
I'd really like to see you test fire buck and ball load for the brown bess.
Imagine taking that deer hunting.
With a .690 ball, I think you will only come back with hamburger.🤣
@@ericdee6802 Oh, it's not that bad. Now a .378 Whetherby, yes.
I've shot several deer over the years with 68 cal. round balls and there simply leave a hole where they passed through. Same as shooting them with a 12 gauge slug.
@@ericdee6802 it isn't like a 7mm Ultra Mag or .30-.378 Weatherby at 50 meters. Those make a mess out of a whitetail even with proper shot placement.
Just load it with some buckshot and you're ready to go
Thanks for all your videos. Fun and great information.
Looks great! You always get the best out of your guns while being informative and engaging.
The average soldier didn't have a musket as well polished as yours is now. The Bess and Charleville muskets were chosen for rate of fire(3 to 4 per minute) not so much accuracy. I have read accounts of cartridges made with smaller ball to account for many more shots before barrel fouling made loading the musket problematic.
The manual of arms I have seen(Von Steuben's Blue book page 17), had the soldier prime the pan before charging the barrel. So getting a consistent charge on the barrel was unlikely.
By the same token, some table hunters or market hunters may have gone to more pains to squeeze accuracy out of their muskets. If they couldn't get enough accuracy, they would load "Buck n Ball" to wound an animal sufficiently to assure harvesting.
Deepen the pan for a low vent hole. Would you deepen it by how much higher the vent should have been? 16th” maybe?
Good job
THANK YOU. MIKE!!!
Nice work great Gun top shooting Cheers Mike
Good job thank you
Great shooting!!
Just found out what to do to my French 20 gauge fusil!
I love your content. You make me want to get into muskets. I already shoot cap and ball revolvers, but now you have me interested in flintlocks and swords. Take care!
Love it thanks brother
Italians have a long, 3 hour lunch" at about 1 pm. You may have gotten your Brown Bess from the afternoon shift. I'm thinking of getting the Brown Bess To ndians Trade musket. I like the idea of having the option of shot or ball.
You can use shot in a Bess. I bought 11 gauge cards from Dixie Gun Works, and put shot through mine. I got a nice grouse the first time I took it out.
I wonder if that process done to a lesser extent would help a rifled piece. I had a few .50 cal long rifles some you could shoot all day long without cleaning and some you would have to swab it out after two shots because of how hard it was to load.
I was checking out those flex hones for a slightly pitted Damascus shotgun I want to shoot black powder shells from, but they are ungodly expensive for a home hobbyist working on a cheap old gun. I like your technique and am going this route, thanks! I wonder if following up the burnishing with degreasing and some cold bluing in the bore might further prevent corrosive action, especially with home brew primers I'm using?
I saw a video recently that showed a young man loading with paper cartridges. He said everyone is doing it wrong. He put the ball in first , then tore off the extra paper. I did some research and there was some supporting text of this approach. It would seem that loading all of the paper cartridge under the ball does not seat the ball firmly against the powder and could or would lead to air spaces or voids in the loaded charge. I have no experience in this matter , my question is merely from observation. What do you think ?
after watching your vids on the Bess I searched youtube for more and found one Hickok45 did a while back and in a closeup it looks like his Bess has a low touch hole as well. Also its looked like his was an India pattern Bess, I think thats what the shorter one is called.
Have you ever tried saturating a patch with lapping compound and grease/oil? It worked well on my Ruger Flat Top's forcing cone... though using lead bullets and no patch.
Yes, but I used it on a patch. I think it is a good way to finish, but it isn't abrasive enough to smooth a rough muzzleloader bore.
What will be the effective range of this brown bess musket???🤔🤔🤔
I like this gun.
Good Video
Great Video!!
Nice shooting Mike! Does the brown bess have a rear sight (seems like those old muskets didn't have one - am I correct)? Do you just become adept at using the front sight, or is there a recommended way to sight in a target?
Most all military smoothbore muskets only have a front sight, much like shotguns, that doubled as a bayonet lug, it wasn't until you came across a rifled musket that you'd get both a front and rear sight
I just got this gun and it’s my first flintlock. No rear sight but windage is pretty easy because you can align the front sight with the tang that you can see just below the front sight when looking down. As for elevation, I’m still figuring out what the correct reference to the tang is for elevation when looking down the barrel.
This was a great video!! 👍👍👍
Awesome, welldone what fun.👍
Thanks
Hi Mike, great video as always! Have you ever tried Nessler balls in your smoothbores and if you have was there an accuracy difference?
I haven't tried them. Sorry
@@duelist1954 future video :) ?
@@lukedealberdi3713 Do you know of a source for them, or for a mold for Nessler balls for the Bess?
@@duelist1954 eras gone used to carry one but it was pointed not the domed and hollow and long discontinued. I've seen lots of mutterings mover the years that a Lyman 2654012 foster mould is quite close to the original. I'll ask around at the club!
@@duelist1954 Just found that Robert Bradley makes them for .69 muskets, may also do Brown Bess moulds for them.
Always informative. So is there ever a need to use lube for a smoothbore? Or is it only rifled barrels that tend to need lube to keep fouling soft? Obviously it is hard to incorporate lube into a paper cartridge. But would you be using a lube on the Brown Bess if you were loading individual components? I always use a lube for my percussion revolvers, but I don't own a smoothbore (yet) so I'm a little confused about when it is necessary to use a lube. I realize that lube is always optional (I've shot my revolvers without lube for a few shots), but I'm curious about what the experts have to say on the subject. Obviously, shooters can choose to use lube or spit when shooting patched round ball in competitions or on the range. But given that a lot of countries used paper cartridges during wars, there would have been no lube being used in many battles and evidently that was just fine. Can you add your thoughts on the subject?
They did not use lube in 18th century smoothbores, so I don't, but lubed wads would keep the fouling softer.
Nice one
Mike I'm wondering if your Brown Bess is a #1 0r a #2 ? Plus I'm wondering if your musket is an older model, I have a #2 that is a whole lot brighter exterior polish on the barrel is like it was chrome plated, plus mine was purchased in 2019, from Dixie Gun works. Also would using a longer rod attachment with carbide lapping compound give you a finer end result quicker. Great video, I really enjoy your show!
@duelist1954
I got a similar problem with my Investarm .54 smoothbore. You think it would be worth even trying with a chrome lined bore?
Is that dark colored metal finishing pad more or less aggressive than the red 3m metal finishing pad?
Thanks for all you do.
Time to attemp making this musket.....
That’s a great smoking habit ya got Mike!😉👍
How does that ramrod stay in mike? It looks like a real sloppy fit in the tube... is there a mechanism that retains it?
leaf spring inside the stock