Why not? I'm not doubting, just willing to understand. I'm going to be going back in on that side relatively soon to replace kickstart parts so I'd rather not feck anything up.
It may be that the worm needs adjusting. The worm adjustment screw lives inside the center of the worm, you can access it from the outside. I have no clue how or what it's adjusting (worm rotation distance, maybe?) but when I had mine too far out I couldn't get the clutch to engage. The only other "huh?" moment I had was with the clutch release disc bolts (the weird looking, long shank, internally threaded, grooved head, things); they needed to be screwed in way more than I first had thought (3/16" clearance from their inner face to the face of the release disc). Good luck!
@@averageguyadventures ok I’ll take a look at it all again I even have a factory service manual and still am having trouble but thanks for the fast reply
Re: the "cable" issue, did you line up the rectangular head of the clutch pushrod with the center rectangular indent of the pressure plate? I'd bet not. That doesn't sound like the cable itself is the problem.
@@averageguyadventures If you are certain that everything is assembled correctly on the clutch side, the next step is to remove you kicker cover and carefully inspect the worm gear and clutch pushrods. Something is jamming up to cause that slack in the cable. The cable itself is likely fine. It also almost looks as though there is no stop for the cable housing at the kicker cover. The housing moving in and out like that isn't correct.
@@averageguyadventures Was the clutch operating OK before you disassembled it? No matter what, I don't think that this will need any deep or complicated work. The clutch system is pretty straightforward on those machines.
@@averageguyadventures The clutch systems on those old machines are pretty straightforward and you shouldn't run into any deep or complicated repair processes. As a start, loosen the worm gear locknut on the kicker cover and back off the pushrod adjustment screw and see if that makes any difference in how the cable works. If no change, remove the kicker cover for a thorough inspection
Keep plugging’ away at it.
Don't worry, I'm still out here wrenching.
I'm in Northeast Ohio and it got cold so I decided that my bones deserved a break from the garage.
BTW I live over in the western side of Cleveland so we’re both waiting for it to warm up! Always happy to give unsolicited free advice on Ironheads.
You really need a factory service manual and parts manual. Search, they are available. Also, your clutch basket looked nice and dry.
I've got the Spare Parts Book and it's come in handy a time or two already.
The factory service manual is still on my list.
Never take the friction plates apart. Never necessary
Why not?
I'm not doubting, just willing to understand.
I'm going to be going back in on that side relatively soon to replace kickstart parts so I'd rather not feck anything up.
I desperately need to know how to adjust the clutch cable I have a 1970 everything is new full rebuild and my clutch just slips it’s driving me nuts
It may be that the worm needs adjusting.
The worm adjustment screw lives inside the center of the worm, you can access it from the outside.
I have no clue how or what it's adjusting (worm rotation distance, maybe?) but when I had mine too far out I couldn't get the clutch to engage.
The only other "huh?" moment I had was with the clutch release disc bolts (the weird looking, long shank, internally threaded, grooved head, things); they needed to be screwed in way more than I first had thought (3/16" clearance from their inner face to the face of the release disc).
Good luck!
@@averageguyadventures ok I’ll take a look at it all again I even have a factory service manual and still am having trouble but thanks for the fast reply
Is this from lane split boulevard?
No.
From Pant Split Down Your Arse.
Re: the "cable" issue, did you line up the rectangular head of the clutch pushrod with the center rectangular indent of the pressure plate? I'd bet not. That doesn't sound like the cable itself is the problem.
It took me a couple tries but I did.
Had to verify it with a flashlight.
@@averageguyadventures If you are certain that everything is assembled correctly on the clutch side, the next step is to remove you kicker cover and carefully inspect the worm gear and clutch pushrods. Something is jamming up to cause that slack in the cable. The cable itself is likely fine. It also almost looks as though there is no stop for the cable housing at the kicker cover. The housing moving in and out like that isn't correct.
@@billvandyne4685 that's next on my list. Not looking forward to it though. The way my luck goes it'll be something that won't be easy or quick.
@@averageguyadventures Was the clutch operating OK before you disassembled it? No matter what, I don't think that this will need any deep or complicated work. The clutch system is pretty straightforward on those machines.
@@averageguyadventures The clutch systems on those old machines are pretty straightforward and you shouldn't run into any deep or complicated repair processes. As a start, loosen the worm gear locknut on the kicker cover and back off the pushrod adjustment screw and see if that makes any difference in how the cable works. If no change, remove the kicker cover for a thorough inspection