excellent video... the last 10 years I am using an extra rear light at my helmet. It's a led that is very bright and a lot of times, other bikers mention to me that I was visible from 1 and more klm... keep batteries fully charged all the time in the traffic only the helmet light is clear visible
2:20 Most modern ICE vehicles (internal combustion engine) have engines that are very quiet. There is often more noise from the car’s tires than from the engine. Frequently the biggest obstacle to hearing a car coming from behind is the wind rushing past one’s ear - created as a result of the moving bicycle.
3:50 - bike lights and the law in UK: it's no joke - unlit bicycles are terrifying for pedestrians and other cyclists. Now I'm 69, most of my friends and relatives have reduced vision, hearing, reactions such that an unlit bike can make them almost jump out of their skin with surprise, then fear, then all the post shock reactions, then fear of going out. It's not just unlit and inadequately lit bikes on the road but also those on the pavement (illegally) and jumping traffic lights, bombing through zebra crossings, etc. When I walk back from central London to our home on Shooters Hill, I see many examples of criminally reckless cycling. It all spills over into collective hatred of us.
Bought the Magic Shine Allty 1200U earlier today. Wanted one to mount under my Wahoo out front mount (GoPRo mount), wireless remote, USB-C, decent running hours at around 400Lm for normal use, with scope to crank it up much higher when needed. That was the best choice I could find.
What rear light do you use on your helmet and how do you mount it to your helmet? Are there universal mounts that can be used to mount rear lights on helmets?
Despite all the innovations of bicycle lights we still need to remember your lights , regardless of the number of Lumens or mode settings need to have constant beam at all times. Of course if you have more than one front or rear light you can apply any settings you want as long as it doesn't hinder other road users.
The German lights are really good for beam pattern as its the regs there I really like my Busch and Muller front light (Dynamo) as the beam pattern is really good.
The Chinese are now making similar stuff - I replaced my B+M Ixon IQ (battery powered, no dynamo here sadly) that served me for about five years with a Lumintop B01 and with a very similar, well distributed beam pattern I get 40+ hours out of a single 21700 cell on high beam or 210+ on DRL/eco low beam… Plus they are anodised aluminium and quite sturdy. A big issue with B+M battery powered headlights is how they destroy the rechargeable batteries and how even on brand new 4×2700 mAh you barely get 5 hours of what they call high beam (90 lux).
It's all well and good setting up a bike light to point down to the road and slightly to the left, to minimize dazzling drivers, but you've got a light on your head doing exactly that. A front light on a helmet should be banned on roads.
There have been a few turn/ indicator lights for cyclists over the years, but they generally fail to catch on. TBH until it is a law, I don't see them being popular. Liam
LOL, who freaking needs a remote control? the damn button is located right next to the light that has a button already on it! The insanity of modern technology. I've been riding with lights for 50 plus years and never once said to myself, "gee, I wish I had remote control!" And I bet no one else has either! If your lights are aimed correctly you're not going to blind anyone. Electric cars have one thing in common with gasoline cars, they have tires, those tires are rolling on pavement, and as they do they make noise, in fact EV tires are louder than non-ev tires because they're made of a harder rubber compound to get the most amount of miles out of a charge, those harder tread compounds are louder. I can hear a car coming up behind be from at least 1/8th of mile away, and I'm 73 years old! A radar system is another technological waste of money, I've never had the need for one in over 50 years and still don't see the need it, I know when there is a car coming up behind me, I don't need a set of idiot lights to tell me that. This guy basically took stuff I've been saying for years on cycling forums right down to the letter as far as how to use lights, with two exceptions. I don't think 100 lumen taillight is bright enough for daytime use. I tested a 100 lumen light with direct sunlight hitting it and I could barely tell if it was on when I walked a half a block away and looked at it, no where near bright enough to attract the attention of a motorist. When I found that out I bought a 300 lumen light, retested it and that one I could see easily even a block away. The second exception is, I think 1700 lumens for a headlight is overkill, I think 1,200 lumens is plenty, but just like him, I rarely exceed the middle setting which on my brightest light would be 750 lumens, at age 73 I can see just fine with that setting, and I still have 2 more settings to go, a 900 and a 1200 should for some reason I need that much more power like in a dark rain storm. Keep in mind, this is road biking, for a mountain bike and riding offroad you will need at least 2000 lumens. No matter the lumens you need to aim that light as the video says.
excellent video... the last 10 years I am using an extra rear light at my helmet. It's a led that is very bright and a lot of times, other bikers mention to me that I was visible from 1 and more klm... keep batteries fully charged all the time
in the traffic only the helmet light is clear visible
2:20 Most modern ICE vehicles (internal combustion engine) have engines that are very quiet. There is often more noise from the car’s tires than from the engine. Frequently the biggest obstacle to hearing a car coming from behind is the wind rushing past one’s ear - created as a result of the moving bicycle.
3:50 - bike lights and the law in UK: it's no joke - unlit bicycles are terrifying for pedestrians and other cyclists. Now I'm 69, most of my friends and relatives have reduced vision, hearing, reactions such that an unlit bike can make them almost jump out of their skin with surprise, then fear, then all the post shock reactions, then fear of going out. It's not just unlit and inadequately lit bikes on the road but also those on the pavement (illegally) and jumping traffic lights, bombing through zebra crossings, etc. When I walk back from central London to our home on Shooters Hill, I see many examples of criminally reckless cycling. It all spills over into collective hatred of us.
BikeRadar wrote this: " The Ultimate Bike Light Setup Is… "
Weight Weenies saw this: "The Ultimate Light Bike Setup Is…"
We see through the eyes of our heart 😍
Bought the Magic Shine Allty 1200U earlier today. Wanted one to mount under my Wahoo out front mount (GoPRo mount), wireless remote, USB-C, decent running hours at around 400Lm for normal use, with scope to crank it up much higher when needed. That was the best choice I could find.
It's certainly a very neat solution and we love a clean front end. Liam
Bontrager do a nighttime mode - constant which increases luminosity to a non dazzle moderate flash then back to constant on. Works well enough.
What rear light do you use on your helmet and how do you mount it to your helmet? Are there universal mounts that can be used to mount rear lights on helmets?
Despite all the innovations of bicycle lights we still need to remember your lights , regardless of the number of Lumens or mode settings need to have constant beam at all times. Of course if you have more than one front or rear light you can apply any settings you want as long as it doesn't hinder other road users.
StVZO setup is the way to go. You won't dazzle or annoy anyone and you'll see what's going on ahead.
Great video it has shine some light on the subject.
There were so many more light-based puns we could have made. Shame they'll never see the light of day... Liam
The German lights are really good for beam pattern as its the regs there I really like my Busch and Muller front light (Dynamo) as the beam pattern is really good.
The Chinese are now making similar stuff - I replaced my B+M Ixon IQ (battery powered, no dynamo here sadly) that served me for about five years with a Lumintop B01 and with a very similar, well distributed beam pattern I get 40+ hours out of a single 21700 cell on high beam or 210+ on DRL/eco low beam… Plus they are anodised aluminium and quite sturdy.
A big issue with B+M battery powered headlights is how they destroy the rechargeable batteries and how even on brand new 4×2700 mAh you barely get 5 hours of what they call high beam (90 lux).
Handy when you own a di2 setup.. but 105 still king with me..
One of my biggest frustrations with 105 Di2 was the lack of the hood buttons. Liam
4 X 26650 battery pack 36,000 mAh with 1800 lumen 3 output level headlamp .
I'm sure bike helmets are not certified for their crash protection with lights fitted on them
It's all well and good setting up a bike light to point down to the road and slightly to the left, to minimize dazzling drivers, but you've got a light on your head doing exactly that. A front light on a helmet should be banned on roads.
Though I understand the sentiment on running the front light on slow strobe mode, I personally find it annoying from a rider POV.
what about turn lights?
I don't think they would be far enough apart to really be of any use
There have been a few turn/ indicator lights for cyclists over the years, but they generally fail to catch on. TBH until it is a law, I don't see them being popular. Liam
I have sold them and in my area , they have caught on .
Hey😊
5:21 don't duzzle the driver but be sure he will duzzle you😂.Isn't against the law to have a front light on helmet?
LOL, who freaking needs a remote control? the damn button is located right next to the light that has a button already on it! The insanity of modern technology. I've been riding with lights for 50 plus years and never once said to myself, "gee, I wish I had remote control!" And I bet no one else has either! If your lights are aimed correctly you're not going to blind anyone.
Electric cars have one thing in common with gasoline cars, they have tires, those tires are rolling on pavement, and as they do they make noise, in fact EV tires are louder than non-ev tires because they're made of a harder rubber compound to get the most amount of miles out of a charge, those harder tread compounds are louder. I can hear a car coming up behind be from at least 1/8th of mile away, and I'm 73 years old!
A radar system is another technological waste of money, I've never had the need for one in over 50 years and still don't see the need it, I know when there is a car coming up behind me, I don't need a set of idiot lights to tell me that.
This guy basically took stuff I've been saying for years on cycling forums right down to the letter as far as how to use lights, with two exceptions.
I don't think 100 lumen taillight is bright enough for daytime use. I tested a 100 lumen light with direct sunlight hitting it and I could barely tell if it was on when I walked a half a block away and looked at it, no where near bright enough to attract the attention of a motorist. When I found that out I bought a 300 lumen light, retested it and that one I could see easily even a block away.
The second exception is, I think 1700 lumens for a headlight is overkill, I think 1,200 lumens is plenty, but just like him, I rarely exceed the middle setting which on my brightest light would be 750 lumens, at age 73 I can see just fine with that setting, and I still have 2 more settings to go, a 900 and a 1200 should for some reason I need that much more power like in a dark rain storm. Keep in mind, this is road biking, for a mountain bike and riding offroad you will need at least 2000 lumens. No matter the lumens you need to aim that light as the video says.
lezyne Period…