46/17 started riding fixed when I moved to CO., After many years off, due to a hip injury. Hills, no worries. Flats....groovie, and tracklocross. Oh yeah. ❤ I love the video. Thanks for the content you make.
Im running 49/15 and just set my PB solo ride on a 100km loop around my city at 2h52. Yes, I am subtlety tooting my own horn because its a personal goal achievement, not a flex and having achieved that goal, I treated myself to a gorgeous Kappstein Pro-Line chainring. High RPM and 47/17 is perfect for aerobic fitness.
@@balasquin No, its super flat. If you install a 49/17 (2.88) you'll basically have the same ratio as a 46/16 (2.85) which is a really friendly ratio imo.
My bike came with 28c tires, 170mm crank arms, 48X17 gearing. I took a long layoff from cycling between 2005 and 2020 and I purchased this first fixie in 2021, in my mid-50s. After riding for a few months, I found that gearing just a little too stiff and my regular mechanic (a fixed-gear aficionado) suggested that I step all the way down to 44X17. Apart from one nerve-wracking but isolated experience of nearly spinning out, I've actually come to embrace higher cadence riding. Right now, I can comfortably spin 105RPM (translating to roughly 35km/h) on downhills, easily pull away from dead stops, and climb without worrying about dying (usually!). I could see moving back up to 45X17, 51X19, or even 46X17 in order to squeeze out a bit more top-end speed but not much heavier.
48/17 is the most efficient ratio. I use to run 48 /15 for a decade. When I switch ,at first spinning at a high level felt uncomfortable . Over a few months I gotten better at spinning . Spinning is really something much different than mashing and relying on pure strength. It's about having better strokes. And when you have better strokes you can move your legs faster and with a smaller ratio the faster you can spin the more rotation you can achieve with the back wheel versus Purely relying on a big gearing to do that
My ratio is 48/18. Commuting and hills are my challenges. I'm 62 with small fibre polyneuropathy and my neurologist was the "guy", whom recommended I get into fixed gear cycling.
@@JitinMisra Not my hands: my balance in my feet is impacted along with severe "shooting pains" and muscular foot tremors. My specialist suggested being on a bike would improve my mental focus and balance. He wanted me to focus on the feeling in my feet and he was completely Correct! My walking balance improved and I can walk without a cane.
47/17+19 Here. Pretty easy ratio, tons of skid patches and I like having dual rear cogs incase I'm going to be doing any tough climbs. Sure, it can take a few minutes to flip your wheel for the descent, but not too bad. Honestly, the older you get, the less you will skid. You just tend to backpedal more and hop-skip to slow down. Tires ain't cheap and skidding, whilst fun in the beginning, it loses that fun factor over time.
I can feel a huge difference between 47/17 and 49/17... 47 just doesn't feel fast enough for regular riding, sure it feels a bit quicker to get up to speed and it feels a little easier on the hills but its just not enough top end, at least for NYC. The most popular ratio in NYC, at least among people who race alleycats is 49/17 and with good reason, its quick but it still has a fair bit of top end. I don't race that much any more but is still feels like the best gear to get around the city on.
I'm running 48/16. My Logic when I chose this ratio was speed and strength training. But after almost a year of riding, I'd be quite happy to get a 17 cog. 😅 Thanks for explaining nicely about other advantages of 48/17. Cheers
I’m turning 50 this fall, I’m running 45-17 (single speed) and it’s just fine. Can still get up to 22mph on flat ground, and climb hills without dying…..average speed on rides is always about 16mph…..
@@event4216 I have rode in the past- I had a major knee injury 4 years ago and don’t have an ACL currently, so fixed riding is a bit too risky on the knee. Like most Americans I don’t have health insurance, soooooo…. Knee surgery is too expensive.
@@stevekelly6544 Oh, knees are assets! Even having both brakes (fixed doesn't mean bike can't have brakes) there's temptation to adjust speed by resisting crank rotation - even with no full stopping power, no skip stops, no skidding. Also freewheeling could be needed for delicate knee just to rest during ride. #kneesmatter! Stay healthy, be active - no matter what tranny is on a bike!
I am road biker that added a track bike in my collection. I ride quite heavy gear: 53/16 and while I am perfectly fine going on flats and uphill, I am totally not comfortable with descending. Too scary and I can't skid.
In my Red Bull days… aka when I was really fit… I climbed Onion Valley Road, an Hors Categorie climb and California’s hardest climb, on 50/18 which is like a half inch lighter than 48/17. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done on a bike. I skidded through a brand new tire on the descent and the tube blew out right at the end haha. In Chicago, I bounce between 48-49-50/17. If I’m trackpacking or riding in the mountains, I throw on a 47 and its great. The 17 tooth cog works well with just about any front chainring for most riders. If you like 48/16 try a 50/17 and you’ll get a much better skidding experience.
I can't stress this enough saying to all beginners in our community here in our country. 44:17 or 48:17 is the best for beginners or want to try fixed gear. This video nails it I'm going to share this to all that wants to ride a Fixed Gear. Btw 48:17 gang here. 🔥
I have a singlespeed 20" folding bike. Have 48x16 stock. Once replaced with 48x12. Very hard to pedal on moderate hills. Much worse if you go off a long ride. Then replaced it with 14t on the rear. Pretty much the same, then ended up to stick with the original ratio again. Turned out really to be the best out of the tryouts. Man.. japan bikes are practical.
I fear that rather like the abattoir or the sausage factory, a tour of the Wabi factory might not quite give the sensation hoped for. Be careful what you wish for.
I have 2 fixed gear set ups one is a fairdale “2016 coaster” turned into a tracklo style with 38c tires and i run a 42x15/17 (double fixed hub) depending on the ride. My second set up is a leader cure and that ones running a 47x14. I mainly just bring this one out when i do solo rides or when i ride with friends who are trying to put the miles down at a fast pace.
Real World Advice: Do not do fast descents without brakes. Ever. I ride on the hills of the Welsh Marches (UK) and have used a homebuilt fixie (among other bikes) for many years. Two of my kids -they are all now adults - also ride fixed or single-speed quote often. They grew up around it. Many of the descents here are an easy 35mph on fixed. That means spinning at 170+ rpm. At those crank speeds, there is NO WAY anything other than a traditional brake will slow you safely. Add wet weather to the mix and you can double the danger. Seriously, NEVER descend at speed in the fantasy that skidding is a safe way to stop without brakes. Fun to pretend it is when chatting on a bar... Suicide to believe it is when actually heading at 35mph/170rpm towards a car or truck that just pulled out of a side road. Other than for showing off or gentle urban commutes, all fixies should have at least a front brake. For fast descents, a front and a rear. My gearing? It varies, but currently 52/20 on 700c x 23. Approximately 20mph at 100rpm on the flat. At my advanced years (60) that is fast enough on most rides.
Yea no way am I doing fast descents ever. Like, I live on top of a hill on one side it has a 10% gradient. I do go down it brakeless, but I'm backpedaling the whole thing and occasionally skidding to reduce speed even more and shitting my pants the entire descent. Brakeless descents are no fun.
I've got a front brake, but still I get nervous that my cable fails and I won't be able to slow down fast enough on a descent. My main fear is just spinning so fast that I won't be able to un-clip and my momentum will just cause/force me to wipe out because my legs can't control the RPM's. I just try and stay on flatland as much as possible.
@@alienrefugee51 This makes sense. But believe me, climbing and descending on fixed are both wonderful things. If you put on a rear brake, you will have confidence in the descents and it opens up a whole new aspect of fixed-gear riding. My great fear on fast descents is getting a cramp on my leg. That would stop the rear wheel pretty suddenly and the whole thing would become a bit of an unguided missile. It's never happened on fixed-gear, but it has with gears and I've been able to just slow down and roll quietly onto the floor in quiet agony. I do not feel good about it happening when I'm descending fast on fixed .... But seriously, fit a rear brake and go up into the hills. Then find a descent you know and like, one with few intersections with other roads, and just point the thong down hill and let it roll. Let your legs do what they want (you can't make much useful input over 150rpm anyway) and enjoy the ride. I promise you, it is intoxicating. You will repeat the exercise.
42/16 here, on a 26" old MTB frame. It's the sweet spot for me for my daily commute. I seldom need a higher gear and it's low enough that I can climb most hills where I live.
46/16 is only 1.5ish gear inches higher, gets 16 patches for ambidextrous skidders, and because the teeth are even front and rear, you can use the same drivetrain much longer. I’ve been using 46/18 for my tracklocross bike for the same reasons.
I ride 47/18. I found that 47/17 hurts my knees as it not that flat here in Paris. I started with 47/19 and after several mouth I got stronger removed a tooth on the back because it was a little bit to spinny on the descents even if it was nicer on the climbs. I love the 47 tooth chainring, it's an odd number so your get the maximum skid patches with every cog sizes.
I’ve been riding bikes my whole life, (26yrs old) but I just got a fixed gear from my local bike shop, they set me up with 48/16 cause I basically traded tattoos for most the parts so they just got me stuff to get me rolling( slowly upgrading now). But I’ve tried to skid and it feels impossible, but she’s fast at least
39/18 here with my tracklocross with 35mm tires, lots of hills in the woods. It's my first fixed gear build and sure I'm gonna add brakes soon, but wanted to learn how to manage the speed just with my legs. Lots of adrenaline but the descents are terrifying 😂
Hi, I'm building a tracklocross and live mainly on flats, not too many hills so is 38/18 good for you like speed and climbing? I'm going to be running 40/18 & 700c 38mm tires
My Bianchi runs on 50/14 My Gazelle has flipflop 47/16 or 47/18 for climbing And my Cinelli runs on 50/17 (which is the same ratio as 47/16 (2.94) just that it runs a lil rounder bc the chain makes more contact)
That explains it, I run 48/18 and I don’t have a problem skid stopping but then with my 48/16 48/14 and 44/13 the most comfortable one is the 44/13. Once you pick up speed you are good to go but stopping is a different story.
I've been riding 48/17. I've been trying to conquer the climb up to my house on my fixed gear. There's one section, about 10 meters, that shoots up in grade that I can't get up yet. But I refuse to push a smaller gear ratio, because it feels so nice on the flats!
Try dropping to a 47t or a 46t there’s really not that much of a difference in the flats, but it might give you that tiny little bit to help you get up the hill.
@@brandonnunez3644 thanks for the tip! I actually just made it up for the first time a few days ago! I feel like I can finally switch over to my fixed gear for daily use!
@@HEYMANGRAMPS very comfy, super versatile. I'm on 49:18 atm and it's definitely easier to zip about a hilly city. I'm not a very powerful rider though so ymmv
Nowadays I'm running 49/16, which is slightly higher, but I have strong legs and tend to mash gears. 48/17 would work better for most people, because it can do it all.
Climbed and descended once with a 53x19t. Never again. I couldn't keep up with the damn pedals. There's a reason the freewheel exists. Now I just use my fixie for comuting with a 53x16t. Sucks getting started at a light, but feels great once I get the RPMs up.
Dude im just about the same ratio! I live a bit north of Seattle and 50×15 is pretty great for commuting. I prefer pushing hard uphill to spinning out downhill
Mine’s 48/15 on large diameter tyres old-British 27 inch. It’s a heavy gear and in my 30’s and 40’s (years old) it was fine for my daily commute. It’s too heavy a gear for hills though. Now I use it on the converted railway path (quite flat) and it’s fine for that. However, now I’m in my sixties and I desire an easier ratio, so I can solve the mild uphills with a little bit of easy grace.
I live in Ventura county, and do riding between Ventura & Oxnard Ca. There is a decent amount of hill climbing, but the closer you get to the coast it flatens out. I ride with a Hustle group and most of us run a 49x16 gear ratio. We choose 49t CR because it has the most skid patches regardless of the rear cog (I believe a 52t CR that also provides a good anount of skid patches, however Im not sure). There are at lest 5 of us who ride a 49x13, and that is my present gear ratio
48/18 and thinking about adding 48/17 ( maybe 16) for tailwind rides. This summer caught tailwind on longish ride and experienced descends when all I wanted was to sooner start ascending.
i love fixed gear bike. but there are 2 major reasons why i don't ride them anymore.. 1) roads are absolute menace here in my city. 2) don't have an option here in my city to buy a good quality or to built a decent fixed gear bike. (India/Maharashtra/Nagpur). Loving your videos since you have started on TH-cam, keep them coming ❤
I don't have many climbs in my area, so I run ratios with a similar energy, only a bit taller- 47x16 and 49x16. Still got 16 skid patches even as a non-ambidextrous skidder, and with limited skids, it's perfect. One reason why 48x16 is popular is that many crank+chainring combos come with limited options. I ran 48x16 for a bit because that's all I could get from the factory for my Miche Primatos. Sucks if you're trying to save money. And yeah, you could run a 17t cog, but that's a tad short for my usecase.
I'm thinking of doing either 48/17 or 52/19. I'm moving to a more hill focused area, so I'm leaning more towards a spinnier ratio for the hills, thinking more 52/19. Going to be building up a Tyrant Legacy with American Classic Kimberlite 35mm tires.
46x16 thinking about 46x14 for training, riding flats, etc....22mph at 85rpm......any thoughts on this kind of riding mostly flats and 1-4 mile loops in neighborhoods with little to no traffic. Thanks for all the info Zach. #wabiclassic
I really enjoy climbs with my single speed bike! I'm running a 44x18 gearing. It's so fun and easy to pedal with it. Used to be 48x17 gang but the traffic in our small town is so severe that I can't maximize running that ratio. Adding with the reckless motor cycle riders. 44x18 just hits the sweet spot for me!
I used to run this ratio and it really is great for city riding. You could get up to speed quickly and maneuver super easily because of the high RPM that came with the ratio. I climbed Griffith Park on this too. Super solid 👌🏼
i went from a 48:15, wanted to go faster and jumped up to a 50:15 but then that got tough to maintain speed. Went down to a 50:16 and now I spin out lol. May need to give a 51t chainring a shot next
I like a 42-16/17 on a double fixed hub. About 70/65 gear inches on a 28mm tyre and enough to get you anywhere whilst being relatively spinny. Anyone else like the smaller chainrings up front?
I've put together several single-speed or fixed-gear bikes over the years and I confess I pay little attention to the size of the chain ring. I just use what I have. Because of the fluctuations of fashion and trend, I often have quite a lot of 39 or 42-tooth rings. I think one of my kids is running around on a 42/15 that I built many years ago. The aesthetic of a smaller chain ring is appealing, but in a mad way there is a beauty also to the huge chain rings of the "hour record" bes of several decades ago. Fore, as long as it makes around 68-69 gear inches, I'm happy. 🙂
I am 59 and ride 17/50 prefer working my legs. Little hard on hills but rewarding for exercise.I love speed once you get going nothing beats speed.Dont like high condense.
You forgot about one problem. I am using 60/17 and... I am unable to ride normal bike with gears as my chain starts to skip immediately when I start to accelerate ;( Obviously I am not riding on uphills much (expect this sweet finish close to my house which is about 400m long and 60m up). I have just noticed... why there is no chain tensioner on your bike ?!? My rear axis would immediately shift no matter how hard I tighten the screw.
It also depends on crank length. If you're running big cranks, they'll give you more leverage, meaning you can still skid a bigger gear. But at the same time, your cadence is going to slow down, so no, going to bigger cranks with bigger gears won't increase your max speed. (Just saying that crank length should be mentioned while discussing gear ratios as ppl with longer cranks will need a bigger front chainring)
48 /17 . I'm a spinner. I also think spinning is an art. And the better the form and strength the more fluid it looks and faster you can spin . Spinning is fun.
I ride 39/16 and get a pretty good pump from each pedal rotation but I’m on a smaller bike a 20 inch bmx so it’s a bit different. I know most old school bmx bikes do 44/16 but I felt decent at 36t chainring so I just wanted to try something slightly bigger so I went with the 39t
I’ve noticed you have different types of handlebar setups on your builds. What is your favorite/ most comfortable? I’m having trouble choosing which one to buy on the wabi site
I’m currently riding 46/16 ratio a lot of spinning and not high enough rpm than what Im pushing mostly flat/city riding. Thinking of upgrading to 49/17 or 49/16? Any suggestions or tips would be helpful! Thank you 🙏🏼
42/16 on my Cooper and 46/18 on Schwinn cutter . long hills around 6% make for a grind to the top. Both set as single speeds. The Schwinn is a tank, but I love it :)
Old Schwinn steel frames are works of art, with their completely smooth welds. This year, I will be celebrating 50 years of ownership of my '74 Schwinn. Yes, it's heavy, but there is a special joy about riding an old classic like that.
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49/16 here. On a mostly flat city. Ideal to go fast and to stop easy.
I ride 52-16 some of my friends ride 52-14 and 48-14/13 and id say it’s pretty good even for traffic and rough terrain and uphills (given you have momentum) and for me 52-16 is a really comfortable ratio and enough for drag sprints and everyday use
UK; Tradition 1950s Cyclist Touring Club (CTC), heavy bikes and hills, add to this Time Trialling ( a very British obsession as for many years mass start racing was banned), and an event known as the 'medium gear' TT for those on single speed/fixed which was a max of 72" (48/18) at the beginning of the racing season. This has been the go-to ratio for 40-100 mile rides. The 18 sprocket is the starter. The whole skidding thing was not even on the radar at that time. Yours truly, 48/18, winter bike (weighs a ton, gas tubing etc), Uni bike (parts bin special if it gets stolen, then not such a loss) 49/18, and steel summer bike (Wabi Sub 1500g wheels, Campag record) at 8KG 50/18 (75") almost identical to 48/17. Note: All 165mm cranks, why? They produce less fatigue from a smaller circle over a long ride, taken from 45+ years of experimenting. So the natural gears haven't really changed as power output has remained a human constant, ie 48/18 heavy and steep hills (UK), town riding 48/17 (UK 50-52/18 for non-skidders) I've been riding fixed wheels on and off since 1978. Footnote: As in the rest of the world, the fixie fad is over, but those of us who just like riding bikes and/or use them for commuting continue to ride fixed (ie Occam's Razor; if you have two competing ideas to explain or provide a solution, you should prefer the simpler one).
I was looking for a bike for college and I found my favorite but I don’t know if it’s good or not so the bike is call the sole bike can you tell me if it’s good or not
My merckx is 46/16, it's my first fixed gear and it feels a bit too stiff. I've not been able to skid it I thought because I was a newbie but maybe this is the problem!
47X17 gives 73 gear inches, rounded. Wouldn't a lighter drive train choice be 39X14, 73.5, a lighter, more compact choice? Smaller sprocket, and cog could be slightly, and yes, a minute advantage. Is there an advantage using larger sprockets?
@@JohnLong_Silver i think it's too slow on high speed. But acceleration is good for me. Is change from 44t to 48t too much, i mean, do It affect too much to acceleration?
@@teppotepponen6652 I also drive best that way. Surely it goes faster and faster.. the compromise with hills or mountains is not a priority. 44/18 is therefore ideal for my needs.
@@teppotepponen6652 It just depends on where you drive. City? Country? Mountains? This is crucial for your choice. You will have to compromise. Fast is great, stupid mountains on hills. Then it’s too hard. If it’s easy for you on the hill, but you’re not fast on the straight.
It'll get the job done🤷 Like, I don't know how your financial situation is, but more expensive stuff is more better in every regard. If you're strapped for cash, just ride cheap stuff for now and save up for nice things, that's what I do 🤷 Just, I wouldn't change components one by one, but collect them instead and then swap everything over in one go.
I think a secondary bike with gears for big climbs and descends is the only reasonable approach. It'll be cheaper than the health of your knees in the future.
56x15 and yes I climb. Did a century on 53x15, 4130 state coreline on risers and pizza rack. Used to do 54x13 until I realized that a 13 causes too much rolling resistance on the chain. Saving up for a nice 64 chainring now
46/17 started riding fixed when I moved to CO., After many years off, due to a hip injury. Hills, no worries. Flats....groovie, and tracklocross. Oh yeah. ❤ I love the video. Thanks for the content you make.
Im running 49/15 and just set my PB solo ride on a 100km loop around my city at 2h52.
Yes, I am subtlety tooting my own horn because its a personal goal achievement, not a flex and having achieved that goal, I treated myself to a gorgeous Kappstein Pro-Line chainring.
High RPM and 47/17 is perfect for aerobic fitness.
dude that's awesome, is your town hilly? thinking of installing a 49T crank but afraid that I'm going to suffer on my town's steep long hills
@@balasquin No, its super flat. If you install a 49/17 (2.88) you'll basically have the same ratio as a 46/16 (2.85) which is a really friendly ratio imo.
Well done man! 👍
My bike came with 28c tires, 170mm crank arms, 48X17 gearing. I took a long layoff from cycling between 2005 and 2020 and I purchased this first fixie in 2021, in my mid-50s. After riding for a few months, I found that gearing just a little too stiff and my regular mechanic (a fixed-gear aficionado) suggested that I step all the way down to 44X17.
Apart from one nerve-wracking but isolated experience of nearly spinning out, I've actually come to embrace higher cadence riding. Right now, I can comfortably spin 105RPM (translating to roughly 35km/h) on downhills, easily pull away from dead stops, and climb without worrying about dying (usually!). I could see moving back up to 45X17, 51X19, or even 46X17 in order to squeeze out a bit more top-end speed but not much heavier.
47/19 for climbing
51/19 for everyday
Don’t be afraid of big cogs! Tons of skid patches too
48/17 is the most efficient ratio. I use to run 48 /15 for a decade. When I switch ,at first spinning at a high level felt uncomfortable . Over a few months I gotten better at spinning .
Spinning is really something much different than mashing and relying on pure strength. It's about having better strokes. And when you have better strokes you can move your legs faster and with a smaller ratio the faster you can spin the more rotation you can achieve with the back wheel versus
Purely relying on a big gearing to do that
My ratio is 48/18. Commuting and hills are my challenges.
I'm 62 with small fibre polyneuropathy and my neurologist was the "guy", whom recommended I get into fixed gear cycling.
what does that mean, does that impact your hands from changing gears ?
@@JitinMisra Not my hands: my balance in my feet is impacted along with severe "shooting pains" and muscular foot tremors.
My specialist suggested being on a bike would improve my mental focus and balance. He wanted me to focus on the feeling in my feet and he was completely Correct!
My walking balance improved and I can walk without a cane.
a doctor recommended fixed gear cycling?
Interesting, have you heard of bare foot shoes?
@@theinnerdreamer7043 I don't believe I have?? Where can I get them?
I've been using 47/15 for the past year but started out on 47/17 and used it for three years. I swap in the 17t cog for Tracklocross on 650B wheels. 😁
tried almost all available options for my hilly city, finally came to 50/17 for summer and 46/19 for winter (snow/ice) riding on fixed gear
46:16 is my sweet spot. Spinny enough for the climbs where I live, but not too spinny for the descents.
46/16 has been the best I've done so far. It's consistent and is close in ratio to 48/17
fr
47/17+19 Here. Pretty easy ratio, tons of skid patches and I like having dual rear cogs incase I'm going to be doing any tough climbs. Sure, it can take a few minutes to flip your wheel for the descent, but not too bad. Honestly, the older you get, the less you will skid. You just tend to backpedal more and hop-skip to slow down. Tires ain't cheap and skidding, whilst fun in the beginning, it loses that fun factor over time.
I run 44 x 16 on a 650b x 42 conversion. A great multi purpose ratio for me!
I can feel a huge difference between 47/17 and 49/17... 47 just doesn't feel fast enough for regular riding, sure it feels a bit quicker to get up to speed and it feels a little easier on the hills but its just not enough top end, at least for NYC. The most popular ratio in NYC, at least among people who race alleycats is 49/17 and with good reason, its quick but it still has a fair bit of top end. I don't race that much any more but is still feels like the best gear to get around the city on.
in europe when you buy a new bike it's generally 16/46,
but after a lot of people change for 14-16/46-48-50 (i am a french bike repairer)
salut cool tu me consielle quoi ?
yeah, 46 is the most common, and 48 is also fairly popular, and they usually do come with 16t cogs. Sucks odd number chainrings aren't more common.
48/14 is a 90 gear-inch equivalent, which is commonly used in track racing events.
I'm running 48/16. My Logic when I chose this ratio was speed and strength training. But after almost a year of riding, I'd be quite happy to get a 17 cog. 😅 Thanks for explaining nicely about other advantages of 48/17. Cheers
48/16, one skid patch. You must go through a shit load of tires.
@@Flashback_Jack
Or maybe he has enough sense not to use skid braking.
My Kilo TT came with 48/16. Track racers consider that to be a warmup gear.
I agree if you’re an experienced & fit rider, you really shouldn’t have to skid much
I’m turning 50 this fall, I’m running 45-17 (single speed) and it’s just fine. Can still get up to 22mph on flat ground, and climb hills without dying…..average speed on rides is always about 16mph…..
Your greatest gift to yourself at 50 would be flopping wheels and at least trying fixed gear.
Just turned 62, and still mainly ride fixed gear about 90% of riding. Currently riding 47-15 and hills can challenging for me.
Shit... you guys wanna ride? I'm in Maine, will travel if there's a couch.
@@event4216 I have rode in the past- I had a major knee injury 4 years ago and don’t have an ACL currently, so fixed riding is a bit too risky on the knee. Like most Americans I don’t have health insurance, soooooo…. Knee surgery is too expensive.
@@stevekelly6544 Oh, knees are assets! Even having both brakes (fixed doesn't mean bike can't have brakes) there's temptation to adjust speed by resisting crank rotation - even with no full stopping power, no skip stops, no skidding. Also freewheeling could be needed for delicate knee just to rest during ride. #kneesmatter!
Stay healthy, be active - no matter what tranny is on a bike!
I am road biker that added a track bike in my collection. I ride quite heavy gear: 53/16 and while I am perfectly fine going on flats and uphill, I am totally not comfortable with descending. Too scary and I can't skid.
49:19 or 17 or 13 is best. Odd number chainring means ambidextrous skidding, and 19, 17, or 13 skid spots (all times 2, so 38, 34, or 26 skid places
In my Red Bull days… aka when I was really fit… I climbed Onion Valley Road, an Hors Categorie climb and California’s hardest climb, on 50/18 which is like a half inch lighter than 48/17. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done on a bike. I skidded through a brand new tire on the descent and the tube blew out right at the end haha. In Chicago, I bounce between 48-49-50/17. If I’m trackpacking or riding in the mountains, I throw on a 47 and its great. The 17 tooth cog works well with just about any front chainring for most riders. If you like 48/16 try a 50/17 and you’ll get a much better skidding experience.
I can't stress this enough saying to all beginners in our community here in our country.
44:17 or 48:17 is the best for beginners or want to try fixed gear. This video nails it I'm going to share this to all that wants to ride a Fixed Gear.
Btw 48:17 gang here. 🔥
That's a big jump in gear
44:17 for me, near French alps. Most people in this community run way too big ratios in my opinion.
48/22 here. Im a biggie at 270lbs so it is helpful to have it. I save hills amd going fast for my heared bikes.
I have a singlespeed 20" folding bike. Have 48x16 stock. Once replaced with 48x12. Very hard to pedal on moderate hills. Much worse if you go off a long ride. Then replaced it with 14t on the rear. Pretty much the same, then ended up to stick with the original ratio again. Turned out really to be the best out of the tryouts. Man.. japan bikes are practical.
I use 51/16 in Costa Rica, here it is very hilly, and I’m ok with it, but it is definitively on the hard for climbs, but I’m use to it.
Please make documentary about wabi factory
Ooh yea that'd be nice
I fear that rather like the abattoir or the sausage factory, a tour of the Wabi factory might not quite give the sensation hoped for. Be careful what you wish for.
I have 2 fixed gear set ups one is a fairdale “2016 coaster” turned into a tracklo style with 38c tires and i run a 42x15/17 (double fixed hub) depending on the ride. My second set up is a leader cure and that ones running a 47x14. I mainly just bring this one out when i do solo rides or when i ride with friends who are trying to put the miles down at a fast pace.
I’ve been riding 53 13(4.08) ratio for almost 15 years!! Speedy street Racer! Hills always suck
44x9 my thighs and calves are huge
Real World Advice: Do not do fast descents without brakes. Ever.
I ride on the hills of the Welsh Marches (UK) and have used a homebuilt fixie (among other bikes) for many years. Two of my kids -they are all now adults - also ride fixed or single-speed quote often. They grew up around it.
Many of the descents here are an easy 35mph on fixed. That means spinning at 170+ rpm. At those crank speeds, there is NO WAY anything other than a traditional brake will slow you safely. Add wet weather to the mix and you can double the danger.
Seriously, NEVER descend at speed in the fantasy that skidding is a safe way to stop without brakes. Fun to pretend it is when chatting on a bar... Suicide to believe it is when actually heading at 35mph/170rpm towards a car or truck that just pulled out of a side road.
Other than for showing off or gentle urban commutes, all fixies should have at least a front brake. For fast descents, a front and a rear.
My gearing? It varies, but currently 52/20 on 700c x 23.
Approximately 20mph at 100rpm on the flat. At my advanced years (60) that is fast enough on most rides.
Yea no way am I doing fast descents ever. Like, I live on top of a hill on one side it has a 10% gradient. I do go down it brakeless, but I'm backpedaling the whole thing and occasionally skidding to reduce speed even more and shitting my pants the entire descent.
Brakeless descents are no fun.
I've got a front brake, but still I get nervous that my cable fails and I won't be able to slow down fast enough on a descent. My main fear is just spinning so fast that I won't be able to un-clip and my momentum will just cause/force me to wipe out because my legs can't control the RPM's. I just try and stay on flatland as much as possible.
@@alienrefugee51 This makes sense. But believe me, climbing and descending on fixed are both wonderful things. If you put on a rear brake, you will have confidence in the descents and it opens up a whole new aspect of fixed-gear riding. My great fear on fast descents is getting a cramp on my leg. That would stop the rear wheel pretty suddenly and the whole thing would become a bit of an unguided missile. It's never happened on fixed-gear, but it has with gears and I've been able to just slow down and roll quietly onto the floor in quiet agony. I do not feel good about it happening when I'm descending fast on fixed .... But seriously, fit a rear brake and go up into the hills. Then find a descent you know and like, one with few intersections with other roads, and just point the thong down hill and let it roll. Let your legs do what they want (you can't make much useful input over 150rpm anyway) and enjoy the ride. I promise you, it is intoxicating. You will repeat the exercise.
This is whom I call grown up! Bravo, sir.
I don't think you need to worry about cramps that much... Happened to me but they are generally not strong enough to make the tyre stop
42/16 here, on a 26" old MTB frame. It's the sweet spot for me for my daily commute. I seldom need a higher gear and it's low enough that I can climb most hills where I live.
46/16 is only 1.5ish gear inches higher, gets 16 patches for ambidextrous skidders, and because the teeth are even front and rear, you can use the same drivetrain much longer. I’ve been using 46/18 for my tracklocross bike for the same reasons.
I ride 47/18. I found that 47/17 hurts my knees as it not that flat here in Paris. I started with 47/19 and after several mouth I got stronger removed a tooth on the back because it was a little bit to spinny on the descents even if it was nicer on the climbs.
I love the 47 tooth chainring, it's an odd number so your get the maximum skid patches with every cog sizes.
I ran 58 - 16 for 2 years, hoping to build my my strength.
Dropped down to 46 - 16 was too slow
Went back up to 52 - 16 and I found my sweet spot.
I’ve been riding bikes my whole life, (26yrs old) but I just got a fixed gear from my local bike shop, they set me up with 48/16 cause I basically traded tattoos for most the parts so they just got me stuff to get me rolling( slowly upgrading now). But I’ve tried to skid and it feels impossible, but she’s fast at least
39/18 here with my tracklocross with 35mm tires, lots of hills in the woods. It's my first fixed gear build and sure I'm gonna add brakes soon, but wanted to learn how to manage the speed just with my legs. Lots of adrenaline but the descents are terrifying 😂
Hi, I'm building a tracklocross and live mainly on flats, not too many hills so is 38/18 good for you like speed and climbing? I'm going to be running 40/18 & 700c 38mm tires
44x16 700x25c single speed with brakes. So far, so fun.
My Bianchi runs on 50/14
My Gazelle has flipflop 47/16 or 47/18 for climbing
And my Cinelli runs on 50/17 (which is the same ratio as 47/16 (2.94) just that it runs a lil rounder bc the chain makes more contact)
That explains it, I run 48/18 and I don’t have a problem skid stopping but then with my 48/16 48/14 and 44/13 the most comfortable one is the 44/13. Once you pick up speed you are good to go but stopping is a different story.
48/16 on my single speed with brakes, no worries about brake patches. Flat, uphill, downhill, no problem. 😃
Wabi special is definitely my favorite bike I've had.
My knees had to adjust a lot, but I'm running a track chainring, 52/15
dude that ratio is crazy for anything except track racing, please ride something reasonable like 49/16
I just bought a track bike second hand and it has a 50/13 with 165 crank arms
I've been riding 48/17. I've been trying to conquer the climb up to my house on my fixed gear. There's one section, about 10 meters, that shoots up in grade that I can't get up yet. But I refuse to push a smaller gear ratio, because it feels so nice on the flats!
Try dropping to a 47t or a 46t there’s really not that much of a difference in the flats, but it might give you that tiny little bit to help you get up the hill.
@@brandonnunez3644 thanks for the tip! I actually just made it up for the first time a few days ago! I feel like I can finally switch over to my fixed gear for daily use!
@@tay-lore nice 😃 👍🏼 glad to hear, definitely give it a try you got it!
Yep I’m using 48 - 17 and it’s good for a few hills as well. 👍
upgraded from 47:17 to 49:17 in a mildly hilly city, a touch more challenging to bang skids out but otherwise enjoying it a lot more
How did you feel on the 47:17
@@HEYMANGRAMPS very comfy, super versatile. I'm on 49:18 atm and it's definitely easier to zip about a hilly city. I'm not a very powerful rider though so ymmv
Currently running 50x12 but will soon be back to 48x17 for the spinning effect
Only had my fixie for a couple months, I’ve got 46-17 and it’s workin great, I’m not even in a super hilly area but it’s been working great for me
Nowadays I'm running 49/16, which is slightly higher, but I have strong legs and tend to mash gears. 48/17 would work better for most people, because it can do it all.
New to fixed and single speed riding. The used bike I just bought has a 46T chainring and 16t cogs, both fixed and freewheel.
48 x 16 🦵🦵- but I ride single speed, not fixed. Too old to keep riding fixed without brakes.
The ride fixed with brakes?
My man I'm 39, you're not too old
I'm about to go 44/17 on a 26" wish me luck.
look like a ninja perched on that bike at 3:53 makes me want to ride fixie for the cool factor alone!
super helpful content dude!
What is the popular fixed gear ratio for 16 inch wheel. Thank you
Climbed and descended once with a 53x19t. Never again. I couldn't keep up with the damn pedals. There's a reason the freewheel exists. Now I just use my fixie for comuting with a 53x16t. Sucks getting started at a light, but feels great once I get the RPMs up.
Dude im just about the same ratio! I live a bit north of Seattle and 50×15 is pretty great for commuting. I prefer pushing hard uphill to spinning out downhill
Mine’s 48/15 on large diameter tyres old-British 27 inch. It’s a heavy gear and in my 30’s and 40’s (years old) it was fine for my daily commute. It’s too heavy a gear for hills though. Now I use it on the converted railway path (quite flat) and it’s fine for that. However, now I’m in my sixties and I desire an easier ratio, so I can solve the mild uphills with a little bit of easy grace.
I live in Ventura county, and do riding between Ventura & Oxnard Ca. There is a decent amount of hill climbing, but the closer you get to the coast it flatens out. I ride with a Hustle group and most of us run a 49x16 gear ratio. We choose 49t CR because it has the most skid patches regardless of the rear cog (I believe a 52t CR that also provides a good anount of skid patches, however Im not sure). There are at lest 5 of us who ride a 49x13, and that is my present gear ratio
48/18 and thinking about adding 48/17 ( maybe 16) for tailwind rides. This summer caught tailwind on longish ride and experienced descends when all I wanted was to sooner start ascending.
i love fixed gear bike. but there are 2 major reasons why i don't ride them anymore.. 1) roads are absolute menace here in my city. 2) don't have an option here in my city to buy a good quality or to built a decent fixed gear bike. (India/Maharashtra/Nagpur). Loving your videos since you have started on TH-cam, keep them coming ❤
I don't have many climbs in my area, so I run ratios with a similar energy, only a bit taller- 47x16 and 49x16. Still got 16 skid patches even as a non-ambidextrous skidder, and with limited skids, it's perfect.
One reason why 48x16 is popular is that many crank+chainring combos come with limited options. I ran 48x16 for a bit because that's all I could get from the factory for my Miche Primatos. Sucks if you're trying to save money. And yeah, you could run a 17t cog, but that's a tad short for my usecase.
I don't know anything about fixed gear biking but i love how everyone has a different opinion on it
I'm thinking of doing either 48/17 or 52/19. I'm moving to a more hill focused area, so I'm leaning more towards a spinnier ratio for the hills, thinking more 52/19. Going to be building up a Tyrant Legacy with American Classic Kimberlite 35mm tires.
Do you think 52/20 would be good for climbing hill area?
46x16 thinking about 46x14 for training, riding flats, etc....22mph at 85rpm......any thoughts on this kind of riding mostly flats and 1-4 mile loops in neighborhoods with little to no traffic. Thanks for all the info Zach. #wabiclassic
I really enjoy climbs with my single speed bike! I'm running a 44x18 gearing. It's so fun and easy to pedal with it. Used to be 48x17 gang but the traffic in our small town is so severe that I can't maximize running that ratio. Adding with the reckless motor cycle riders. 44x18 just hits the sweet spot for me!
I used to run this ratio and it really is great for city riding. You could get up to speed quickly and maneuver super easily because of the high RPM that came with the ratio. I climbed Griffith Park on this too. Super solid 👌🏼
@@milocino_ Amen!
Ditto.. I get along best. 44x18 fit perfectly. High start and the whole thing also works very well on climbs. I live in the Alps 👍🏼
i went from a 48:15, wanted to go faster and jumped up to a 50:15 but then that got tough to maintain speed. Went down to a 50:16 and now I spin out lol. May need to give a 51t chainring a shot next
I rode a 42:15 fixed for 508 miles & 36,000 vertical ft in the Mojave in 36 hrs.
I ran 48/17 for a while but swapped to 42/17 recently because of how hilly and windy my city is. It's a lot easier to skid on too which is a plus
I like a 42-16/17 on a double fixed hub. About 70/65 gear inches on a 28mm tyre and enough to get you anywhere whilst being relatively spinny. Anyone else like the smaller chainrings up front?
I've put together several single-speed or fixed-gear bikes over the years and I confess I pay little attention to the size of the chain ring. I just use what I have. Because of the fluctuations of fashion and trend, I often have quite a lot of 39 or 42-tooth rings. I think one of my kids is running around on a 42/15 that I built many years ago.
The aesthetic of a smaller chain ring is appealing, but in a mad way there is a beauty also to the huge chain rings of the "hour record" bes of several decades ago.
Fore, as long as it makes around 68-69 gear inches, I'm happy. 🙂
I am 59 and ride 17/50 prefer working my legs. Little hard on hills but rewarding for exercise.I love speed once you get going nothing beats speed.Dont like high condense.
I actually really like my 46-17 ratio, on an Kilo TT. Thanks for the info!
Maybe a 48t crankset is in my future!
Lol i ride 48/16!!! I'm still playing around with ratios, but i like 48/16 for now..also not much of a skidder anyways.
Miss you Zach
You forgot about one problem. I am using 60/17 and... I am unable to ride normal bike with gears as my chain starts to skip immediately when I start to accelerate ;( Obviously I am not riding on uphills much (expect this sweet finish close to my house which is about 400m long and 60m up). I have just noticed... why there is no chain tensioner on your bike ?!? My rear axis would immediately shift no matter how hard I tighten the screw.
It also depends on crank length. If you're running big cranks, they'll give you more leverage, meaning you can still skid a bigger gear. But at the same time, your cadence is going to slow down, so no, going to bigger cranks with bigger gears won't increase your max speed. (Just saying that crank length should be mentioned while discussing gear ratios as ppl with longer cranks will need a bigger front chainring)
Yup! I run 165s and would like to try 160s, and whenever I've tried my friends' bikes with 175s, my comfortable cadence drops noticeably.
52:12. Yes, my knees are fine.
48 /17 . I'm a spinner. I also think spinning is an art. And the better the form and strength the more fluid it looks and faster you can spin .
Spinning is fun.
I live in a very hilly area, and since I run single speed I opted for a 46/18 and it runs pretty fast on flats while letting me climb no issues ^^
I'm running a 50-17 ratio, which seems ideal for my longer 33 inch leg length ~ I tend to spin a lower rpm.
You might benefit from longer cranks.
Love the triode, btw.
@@marianneoelund2940 I stuck with the 165 crank length for both cornering and toe clip to tire clearance :)
I ride 39/16 and get a pretty good pump from each pedal rotation but I’m on a smaller bike a 20 inch bmx so it’s a bit different. I know most old school bmx bikes do 44/16 but I felt decent at 36t chainring so I just wanted to try something slightly bigger so I went with the 39t
how about 46:17? Any feedback?
You will be smoking cigars next or stroking a cat like a Bond villain 😉😁
Style
48/17 here for my grocery getter with occasional loops around the city. You cant really go wrong with 48/17.
Anyone know if i can use quill stem on a threadless fork?
48 19 here and I love it on my state black label v2.
I’ve noticed you have different types of handlebar setups on your builds. What is your favorite/ most comfortable?
I’m having trouble choosing which one to buy on the wabi site
I’m currently riding 46/16 ratio a lot of spinning and not high enough rpm than what Im pushing mostly flat/city riding. Thinking of upgrading to 49/17 or 49/16? Any suggestions or tips would be helpful! Thank you 🙏🏼
42/16 on my Cooper and 46/18 on Schwinn cutter . long hills around 6% make for a grind to the top. Both set as single speeds. The Schwinn is a tank, but I love it :)
Old Schwinn steel frames are works of art, with their completely smooth welds. This year, I will be celebrating 50 years of ownership of my '74 Schwinn. Yes, it's heavy, but there is a special joy about riding an old classic like that.
49/16 here. On a mostly flat city. Ideal to go fast and to stop easy.
oops, was not aware of skid patterns and I ride 50/14, but I live in a super flat city and mainly slow down through the pedals.
I ride 52-16 some of my friends ride 52-14 and 48-14/13 and id say it’s pretty good even for traffic and rough terrain and uphills (given you have momentum) and for me 52-16 is a really comfortable ratio and enough for drag sprints and everyday use
Ive tried 48-17/16 and 52-17 and id say they’re too light cause im spinning way too much even at uphills
UK; Tradition 1950s Cyclist Touring Club (CTC), heavy bikes and hills, add to this Time Trialling ( a very British obsession as for many years mass start racing was banned), and an event known as the 'medium gear' TT for those on single speed/fixed which was a max of 72" (48/18) at the beginning of the racing season. This has been the go-to ratio for 40-100 mile rides. The 18 sprocket is the starter. The whole skidding thing was not even on the radar at that time.
Yours truly, 48/18, winter bike (weighs a ton, gas tubing etc), Uni bike (parts bin special if it gets stolen, then not such a loss) 49/18, and steel summer bike (Wabi Sub 1500g wheels, Campag record) at 8KG 50/18 (75") almost identical to 48/17. Note: All 165mm cranks, why? They produce less fatigue from a smaller circle over a long ride, taken from 45+ years of experimenting.
So the natural gears haven't really changed as power output has remained a human constant, ie 48/18 heavy and steep hills (UK), town riding 48/17 (UK 50-52/18 for non-skidders)
I've been riding fixed wheels on and off since 1978.
Footnote: As in the rest of the world, the fixie fad is over, but those of us who just like riding bikes and/or use them for commuting continue to ride fixed (ie Occam's Razor; if you have two competing ideas to explain or provide a solution, you should prefer the simpler one).
is there a way you can tell? i bought my bike already assembled
count the teeth?
I was looking for a bike for college and I found my favorite but I don’t know if it’s good or not so the bike is call the sole bike can you tell me if it’s good or not
My merckx is 46/16, it's my first fixed gear and it feels a bit too stiff. I've not been able to skid it I thought because I was a newbie but maybe this is the problem!
I'm running 49/15 but felt it max spinning on downhill i love downhill I'll soon be changing to 53/15 or 53/14 what you guys think?
47X17 gives 73 gear inches, rounded. Wouldn't a lighter drive train choice be 39X14, 73.5, a lighter, more compact choice? Smaller sprocket, and cog could be slightly, and yes, a minute advantage. Is there an advantage using larger sprockets?
Is 44/18 bad? Its quite popular in europe🤔
Correct 👍🏼 it always depends on the circumstances
@@JohnLong_Silver i think it's too slow on high speed. But acceleration is good for me. Is change from 44t to 48t too much, i mean, do It affect too much to acceleration?
Im new on singlespeed/fixie biking. Newer test different tooth options
@@teppotepponen6652 I also drive best that way. Surely it goes faster and faster.. the compromise with hills or mountains is not a priority. 44/18 is therefore ideal for my needs.
@@teppotepponen6652 It just depends on where you drive. City? Country? Mountains? This is crucial for your choice. You will have to compromise. Fast is great, stupid mountains on hills. Then it’s too hard. If it’s easy for you on the hill, but you’re not fast on the straight.
Ik I'm going to get hell for this but I'm runing a 44 14tooth is that a bad gearing to run
Is kmc s1 a good chain?
Izumi
Yeah, Using it on my fixie rn.. Doesn't have any time to save up for better chains. Kmc is already good
is there fake kmc s1? ifbthere are, hot to spot one?
@wreckz9145 yep, super toughness lasts about 3x the brakeless miles compared to KMC in my personal experience
It'll get the job done🤷
Like, I don't know how your financial situation is, but more expensive stuff is more better in every regard. If you're strapped for cash, just ride cheap stuff for now and save up for nice things, that's what I do 🤷
Just, I wouldn't change components one by one, but collect them instead and then swap everything over in one go.
I think a secondary bike with gears for big climbs and descends is the only reasonable approach. It'll be cheaper than the health of your knees in the future.
bro got the lifetime sponsor by wabi cycle
56x15 and yes I climb. Did a century on 53x15, 4130 state coreline on risers and pizza rack. Used to do 54x13 until I realized that a 13 causes too much rolling resistance on the chain. Saving up for a nice 64 chainring now
😂😂
😂😂
That Panama is cool...