Me personally,i would have pressure washed with heat the whole engine bay and frame and painted and made the engine bay look good and new clean! That's just my OCD kicking in though. Lol
Hey Justin, I like your video's. Keep up the good work. I was fine with everything you done on the overhaul. I personally would have a problem with not torqueing every one of the Main and Rod Cap bolts. I realize they are a torque to yield bolt. But, if the torque was off even a little bit, for any reason with your gun. Then you go to turn the bolt an additional 1/4 turn. Long story short, I just wouldn't be able to sleep at night, if I didn't hand torque each one. Lot of work, but, peace of mind. Other then that, Great job Friend.
The red rings that go between the block and the head inside the head gasket spacer is called water ferrules. And for the love of God please use the 1 E Specs to torque everything on that engine, there’s a reason why we bust ourselves to do the engineering for how things should be torqued! It’s not a whim it’s actual science behind those crazy high torque numbers or sequences.
Sort of a first time watcher here. Love this series. Love myself a 3406 or C15/C-15 CAT. Done some very light machining in them once upon a time but cool so see this side of the work. That elongated hole in your rocker bridge is to give that valve stem tip a chance at living. Lol The downward motion towards the circular hole will be directly down whereas that farther out valve would see more of a down and sideways load. Gives the bridge room to move down and over without trying to pull that valve over and down.
I agree with Josh. I'll tell you a story and try to keep it short. My son in law whom I generally refer to as son wanted to get into the logistics business after a prior business just sort of died. So he bought a Mack with an engine designed to run between 415 and 480 hp - not enough to pull a step-deck fully loaded. It was set at 415 hp. for all 800,000 miles of its life and had run 68 hours over speed. The tech did no diagnostics but uprated the engine to its maximum power. 603 miles later the engine blew with valves and piston heads though the head and rods through he wall of the block. We got out investment back and I bought a 2003 Kenworth W900L with a CAT 15L engine. He is a diesel mechanic so he went from end to end with the help of a certified CAT mechanic. And he leased a RGN trailer. There is a song they taught us in Sunday School: "Count your blessings, count them one by one. Count your blessings and see what God has done>" Well, we had the truck in good shape and a long list of "Must do", "Should do" and "Stuff to play with when you have some play money". Then he had a delivery near my home but chose to park his truck at a reserved space at a Pilot fueling center. While he was here having a nice dinner, some driver backed into him. $47,000 later we put the truck back on the road. We put the truck on his RGN and borrowed a tractor to haul it 250 miles to the dealer and took the head off. One of the valve springs was sheared on impact and the insurance company paid for an in line rebuild. I paid for the warranty and the turbines. Runs great and the mileage went up over 6 mpg. So we sort of went whole hog by changing the tranny to 18sp., swapping the clutch for a HD clutch, changing the radiator and added a fourth axle which is liftable and steerable and added a 55 ton RGN. The loads are getting a lot more interesting. The two "first trailers" were sub-leased to two drivers who had their own trucks and now are sub-contractors to us. Actually we now have seven independent owner operators working for us. For a fellow who has spent 56 years building and fixing companies, this is fun! You fellows seem to really enjoy what you do so, like me, you really don't work! A good friend of mine from GM said to me "You know Grits you are undeniably genetically mechanically sterile." He got that right. So I watch videos like yours and now I know what they did to the truck. Thank you very much for the educational video. By the way, that blue stuff is likely cosmoline which is basically a wax used when shipping steel or iron products around the world.
I have a 96 freight liner with the same engine 18 speed it’s a power house I have learn so much from you guys I love it washing you all the way from Brooklyn New York good job keep up the good work I love it
The elongated hole to the outside of the valves is to allow for travel when the cam depresses the valve train assembly otherwise movement would be restricted. ALWAYS TORQUE MAINS TO MANUFACTURERS SPECS, DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN. Impact gun vibration can cause bolts to stretch unnecessarily, use a breaker bar for the 90 degree turn. Feel and visual inspection is the best way to ensure they are tightened correctly. Just do it as your told to do it! It covers your ass! Love the videos guys! Keep em’ comin! 👍👍 🔧 🔧
Bigger seat hole on the valve bridge is to take account of that side of the bridge being further away from the pivot/fulcrum point causing a less linear movement more arc shaped, really just to avoid it jamming up or causing excess wear IMO👍
Every new cam comes with cosmoline. If he didn't know what it was, maybe he should be asking for more experienced help when working on expensive diesels? Any decent shop has a solvent wash tank big enough to hold that size head.
If you ever have trouble getting the cam bolts out DEW to the red lock tight, take a propane tourch and heat the bolt up for a few seconds .then it will come out without any problems...
Junkie, I absolutely love these videos. Don't get me wrong, the regular videos are great as well, but these rebuilding videos are completely fascinating to me
I agree with measuring the bearings but It's looks a little odd when he just chucks them on the ground when he's done I'm sure they will be fine but I probably wouldn't do that
The "Blue shit" as you called it is actually a protective coating to prevent corrosion until the head is ready for install, prior to install the head should preferably be cleaned in a shop cleaning wash basin with an order less mineral spirits solution and brush connected to the wash basin hose, once cleaned remove from the wash basin and using a air gun to blow any residual solution from bolt holes,ports, and any other small areas were there may be some solution left, blow dry clean and then inspect the head for any damages or problems. The head is now ready to be installed.
push rod goes straight up and down the valve side needs to slide just a little bit as it goes up and down. Please make sure you check the electrolyte in the antifreeze cat's are very picky
One trip to the Dr to get something removed from his eye and he'll be wearing safety glasses to go down on the missus. I learned my lesson the hard way, lucky I didn't lose an eye.
Awesome video as always. Can't wait to see the next one. Oh, any way for a future video with a interview with Jim, he seems like a very knowledgeable diesel mechanic.
I am so excited , i just bought a 379 Pete day cab, with 3406e with same problem. just what i always dream of tearing engine apart. I am to cheap to pay someone else.
The way you put the main bearing bolts in was way wrong. Torque to yield bolts need to be stretched a specific amount otherwise they wont apply the right clampimg force. It blows my mind that you'd ignore a torque spec on a bearing cap. Its not like it's hard to do it correctly. The amount of torque an impact wrench puts out will change based on the pressure in the line... Crazy....
Not to mention the sheer hammering effect the impact is putting in and on those bolts. Nice and smooth torque is required for torque to yield. Could this method work? Sure. I personally couldn't do it.
when i do mains i always remove 1,4,7 in first section, then 2,3,5,6 in second. also, i have removed 3 last mains once on 6nz, and immediately after the rear main seal let go. hopefully you wont have to drop transmission and clutch just to change rear main.
Thanks it was a great video I have a lot of interest in the 3406 Cat engines of course and the new C7 and kind of like the Detroit Diesel inline 6 as they have now that are run right there next to the caterpillar engines the ones I used to have a full just as good and run just as good as a as a cat thanks for the video
That Rocker bridge with the slotted end is so there is no valve stem binding when the rokcer arm pushes on the bridge, if it was to bind you stand the chance of bending the valve stem.
not going to set the gear lash on the cam gear after installing a new head and gasket? its going to be outta wack, this is a older cat with a single cam position sensor, but the newer cats with a cam and a crank position sensor with throw a code if not adjusted correctly
As a cat technician 1 that is simply grease so all of the Reman parts don't trust as they get shipped by containers over seas and take a while to be applied 2 u should never pressure wash a assembled cylinderhead as it there will always be water left no matter how well u clean the wire off with will induce rust +u might damage the rotor coils on the valve assembly and have water in the camshaft galleries 3 it just needs less then a hour and like 0.5l of gasoline to clean all the shmou and shit To make the thing spark in and out Good work tho
Totally enjoying each and every video.. STAY WITH IT love every minute. Just one question about the install with O rings, in the old days I would use a rocker gauge to make sure I didn't roll an O ring. How do you ensure an O ring didn't roll?
The whole is oblong on the outer valve because when the valves stroke down the clearance between the valves change. With out it the top of the valve would bend and fatigue?
The blue stuff is exactly what Jim said it was, Rust Preventive. If I remember correctly its 26 Head bolts. I dont think red loctite is necessary on the cam gear bolts. Not a bad idea but we dont do it at the factory. I work in the facility where C9-C18s are built.
CSiev17 oh my god did you work at the plant that the engines are actually build out that's totally awesome I hope I did a good job explaining how to rebuild one and thank you for coming to my channel and watching what I've been doing but I hate that blue shit you got to tell him to stop use that shit and also if you could get me a six in Z out of the plant that would be awesome
You are doing great! When we receive the cylinder heads they are bare with no RP. Unfortunately no luck sneaking stuff out. CAT is very secretive. Its cool for me to see this engine being rebuilt and see how many things have changed on the engine from then to now.
CSiev17 already released I'm doing good and I got it as it builds cats yeah I thought it would be a very interesting thing to show people how much work there really is go into it and I was kind of just joking on getting a whole engine out of cat I didn't think that that could happen but I know there's no hurt in asking
Ha well you are absolutely right! Never know!. The only thing i haven't seen at the plant yet is those new water jacket seals for the head. We still use the black ones.
Rocker shafts. See a lot of scored rocker shafts on these engines. If you change one, you might as well change all three. Yeah great packaging, don't you hate the Blue preservative cleanup.... The fast way is hot pressure wash, immediately followed by compressed air and SPRAY OIL. C15 cam, now that puppy's HEAVY.
Cool videos man, been watching the Cat rebuild so far. I'm a diesel tech too of about 10 years. Getting ready to overhaul a C13 myself. Any ways, the blue goo is actually made by a company called ChemTool called Enviro Armor Blue. It's a rust inhibitor meeting a Cat standard for parts that could be in storage for up to 5 years. It's kind of like Cosmoline. Keep the vids coming!
Nick dominic Good question. I would be awful nervous about using any method to tighten rod and main bolts other than what the book says. Especially since I think it specifically says not to use impact wrenches to tighten them.
I would liked have seen the outside of the old liners. Many I have pulled have significant cavitation erosion. This is caused by poor cooling system care. Some engines were overhauled because the liners completely eroded causing coolant in the crankcase..
Ducati Parts used 3/4 impact on many Detroit’s and Cummins what’s the fuckin difference moving a bolt 180 degrees with an impact and marker vs a torque wrench it’s 180 degrees regardless. Keep it simple stupid.
@@chancependergrass711 unfortunately you sound more like "keep it stupid, simple." Because how are you supposed to know what amount of torque you're going 180 deg from if you never set it with a torque wrench in the first place. This assembly is a dumpster fire and knowing that there are people like you and those in this vid makes me shudder to think how shoddy some people's workmanship is.
Hey Justin I'm liking the rebuild series a lot I also love doing this shit all day at work then on my own time in my own shop to at my farm. But I totally know how you guys feel on the head bolts because on a cat track ag tractor you have to torque a lot of the track bolt to 600 foot pounds when you move the to different widths. Keep up the good work 👍🏻👌
One of the most beautiful videos I've ever seen. But I want some information you can provide me like measuring the connection of the nails in full and what is the liquid that you put on the top nails
Allows movement on at Least 1 side of the rocker arm to prevent wear if they were both perfect circles it would crack the rocker arm causing 1 big fuk up
I have a C15 caterpillar, it's got 1,120,000 miles. I'm debating if I'm going to over haul the engine or buy a new engine. What is the advantages of buying one vs the over haul?
Hey bro are you talking about the Trust Bearing that live's on one of the crank main's ? Say Trust Bearing !!! Don't forget those Main cap's have got to go back exactly where they came out of ... No foolin ...Well your certainly on your way , now imagine a few hundred of those and god only knows how many Clutch assembly's and power divider's and so on ....Remember your finger's are your friend's ........
Adrian Esquivel yes we put main bearings in it and then answer your first question how much does it cost like total parts like if you had a buy all brand-new if you had to pay all the court charges and you didn't have anything you're looking at about $45,000
Yeah, I would have taken that blue coated cylinder head right down to my local CAT dealer and demanded that they toss it in their automatic parts washer. For the price you pay for their kit which usually includes used parts that meet spec and might not even have been re-worked, they owe you at least that courtesy. Just out of curiosity, how long did this rebuild last? Hours / miles before it let go?
always use a torque wrench brother cats use a torque turn bolt on just about everything it has to stretch then be turned then retorqued and the head bolts you take em down then torque then turn then release and repeat process but im tahnkful you are helping guys out.
Me personally,i would have pressure washed with heat the whole engine bay and frame and painted and made the engine bay look good and new clean! That's just my OCD kicking in though. Lol
Hey Justin, I like your video's. Keep up the good work. I was fine with everything you done on the overhaul. I personally would have a problem with not torqueing every one of the Main and Rod Cap bolts. I realize they are a torque to yield bolt. But, if the torque was off even a little bit, for any reason with your gun. Then you go to turn the bolt an additional 1/4 turn. Long story short, I just wouldn't be able to sleep at night, if I didn't hand torque each one. Lot of work, but, peace of mind. Other then that, Great job Friend.
The red rings that go between the block and the head inside the head gasket spacer is called water ferrules. And for the love of God please use the 1 E Specs to torque everything on that engine, there’s a reason why we bust ourselves to do the engineering for how things should be torqued! It’s not a whim it’s actual science behind those crazy high torque numbers or sequences.
Sort of a first time watcher here. Love this series. Love myself a 3406 or C15/C-15 CAT. Done some very light machining in them once upon a time but cool so see this side of the work. That elongated hole in your rocker bridge is to give that valve stem tip a chance at living. Lol The downward motion towards the circular hole will be directly down whereas that farther out valve would see more of a down and sideways load. Gives the bridge room to move down and over without trying to pull that valve over and down.
I agree with Josh.
I'll tell you a story and try to keep it short. My son in law whom I generally refer to as son wanted to get into the logistics business after a prior business just sort of died. So he bought a Mack with an engine designed to run between 415 and 480 hp - not enough to pull a step-deck fully loaded. It was set at 415 hp. for all 800,000 miles of its life and had run 68 hours over speed. The tech did no diagnostics but uprated the engine to its maximum power. 603 miles later the engine blew with valves and piston heads though the head and rods through he wall of the block. We got out investment back and I bought a 2003 Kenworth W900L with a CAT 15L engine. He is a diesel mechanic so he went from end to end with the help of a certified CAT mechanic. And he leased a RGN trailer.
There is a song they taught us in Sunday School: "Count your blessings, count them one by one. Count your blessings and see what God has done>"
Well, we had the truck in good shape and a long list of "Must do", "Should do" and "Stuff to play with when you have some play money". Then he had a delivery near my home but chose to park his truck at a reserved space at a Pilot fueling center. While he was here having a nice dinner, some driver backed into him. $47,000 later we put the truck back on the road. We put the truck on his RGN and borrowed a tractor to haul it 250 miles to the dealer and took the head off. One of the valve springs was sheared on impact and the insurance company paid for an in line rebuild. I paid for the warranty and the turbines. Runs great and the mileage went up over 6 mpg. So we sort of went whole hog by changing the tranny to 18sp., swapping the clutch for a HD clutch, changing the radiator and added a fourth axle which is liftable and steerable and added a 55 ton RGN. The loads are getting a lot more interesting.
The two "first trailers" were sub-leased to two drivers who had their own trucks and now are sub-contractors to us. Actually we now have seven independent owner operators working for us. For a fellow who has spent 56 years building and fixing companies, this is fun! You fellows seem to really enjoy what you do so, like me, you really don't work!
A good friend of mine from GM said to me "You know Grits you are undeniably genetically mechanically sterile." He got that right. So I watch videos like yours and now I know what they did to the truck. Thank you very much for the educational video.
By the way, that blue stuff is likely cosmoline which is basically a wax used when shipping steel or iron products around the world.
Cherish every moment you have with Jim............Not too many left like him
festus of the midwest
Jim dropped that first line pretty hard hope rod didnt damage the journal.
Wow. Eh is close enough! Good god I wouldn’t be surprised if your doing this again very shortly.
Running mains on "feels right to me" physics is really good for the gambling man
Hahahaha....just put it PFT! Pretty Fk'n Tight?
Fuckin clown lol
I am an automotive technician and looking to move on up in the world. You are definitely persuasive enough. It looks fun!
I have a 96 freight liner with the same engine 18 speed it’s a power house I have learn so much from you guys I love it washing you all the way from Brooklyn New York good job keep up the good work I love it
love the series - real life stuff most people never hear about; I surely developed a lot of respect for you guys.
the dog bone on the valves 1 old is elongated just a little bit to allow for the valves to move independently. gives the old cat The purr.
This is like watching Red Green Show
Very professional! Nice talk! Yo Mama is proud of how well you have mastered the
language......There is nothing else to learned in the 5th grade.
capnchip fucking eh !!
The elongated hole to the outside of the valves is to allow for travel when the cam depresses the valve train assembly otherwise movement would be restricted. ALWAYS TORQUE MAINS TO MANUFACTURERS SPECS, DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN. Impact gun vibration can cause bolts to stretch unnecessarily, use a breaker bar for the 90 degree turn. Feel and visual inspection is the best way to ensure they are tightened correctly. Just do it as your told to do it! It covers your ass! Love the videos guys! Keep em’ comin! 👍👍 🔧 🔧
The main bearing caps are as tight as you can get the gun to go lmao keep up the great work guys
Bigger seat hole on the valve bridge is to take account of that side of the bridge being further away from the pivot/fulcrum point causing a less linear movement more arc shaped, really just to avoid it jamming up or causing excess wear IMO👍
DO NOT PUT OIL on the lower liner seals. Cat requires tire rubber lubrication, make sure seals are not twisted.
actually they just say liquid soap. but o-ring lube is also good to use. the top band still requires engine oil
Dude yet again I really am enjoying this series. I'm excited to see the next video. Thanks for the time you put in, and know it's appreciated.
Bryan Bethea thanks dude
That blue stuff is called cosmoline they use it to prevent rust
Every new cam comes with cosmoline. If he didn't know what it was, maybe he should be asking for more experienced help when working on expensive diesels? Any decent shop has a solvent wash tank big enough to hold that size head.
If you ever have trouble getting the cam bolts out DEW to the red lock tight, take a propane tourch and heat the bolt up for a few seconds .then it will come out without any problems...
Jim's and amazing mechanic. And the junkie is a good shop helper
Junkie, I absolutely love these videos. Don't get me wrong, the regular videos are great as well, but these rebuilding videos are completely fascinating to me
mdlee52 i'm glad that you like them or all my other videos
I agree with measuring the bearings but It's looks a little odd when he just chucks them on the ground when he's done I'm sure they will be fine but I probably wouldn't do that
Andy Wheeler that was an old bearing that he threw on the ground you just measure the old one to make sure the new ones matched
The Snap-On Junkie!!! Oh good guess I didn't catch that I thought that was a little odd
You and Jim, what a great TEAM ! Bravo Zulu
The "Blue shit" as you called it is actually a protective coating to prevent corrosion until the head is ready for install, prior to install the head should preferably be cleaned in a shop cleaning wash basin with an order less mineral spirits solution and brush connected to the wash basin hose, once cleaned remove from the wash basin and using a air gun to blow any residual solution from bolt holes,ports, and any other small areas were there may be some solution left, blow dry clean and then inspect the head for any damages or problems. The head is now ready to be installed.
nah, not ideal but it aint gonna hurt nothing
push rod goes straight up and down the valve side needs to slide just a little bit as it goes up and down. Please make sure you check the electrolyte in the antifreeze cat's are very picky
Scott Pearson no pushrods here buddy just a overhead cam....
Brave guy Jim for not wearing safety glasses while under the truck
One trip to the Dr to get something removed from his eye and he'll be wearing safety glasses to go down on the missus. I learned my lesson the hard way, lucky I didn't lose an eye.
i don't think there is anything more painful than a scratched eye lens!!
That's what I was thinking.
Awesome video as always. Can't wait to see the next one. Oh, any way for a future video with a interview with Jim, he seems like a very knowledgeable diesel mechanic.
George Vearling I will ask him
Your the MAN Justin, just a fellow junkie, keep on trucking !
steve bush thanks Bush you the man to
Jim said "it would just fuck shit up". Man I had a good laugh.
Yep a thin coat of paint between exhaust , gasket and head usually ends with exhaust manifold leaks in time..
Like this series vids, keep going!!!!!
I am so excited , i just bought a 379 Pete day cab, with 3406e with same problem. just what i always dream of tearing engine apart. I am to cheap to pay someone else.
The way you put the main bearing bolts in was way wrong. Torque to yield bolts need to be stretched a specific amount otherwise they wont apply the right clampimg force. It blows my mind that you'd ignore a torque spec on a bearing cap. Its not like it's hard to do it correctly.
The amount of torque an impact wrench puts out will change based on the pressure in the line... Crazy....
LOL
Do R/C! that's how they do it the local caterpillar
Not to mention the sheer hammering effect the impact is putting in and on those bolts. Nice and smooth torque is required for torque to yield. Could this method work? Sure. I personally couldn't do it.
Keep them coming. Especially cat 3406e vids 👍
Hi everyone, both of you guys are awesome, very professional, you guys know your business.
my girlfriend does all my head cleaning
lol
stuknda80z ain't that a coincidence, your girlfriend does all of my head cleaning, too!!
Mine too they must be sistas lol
do not marry her, if you do the head cleaning will stop
😂😂😂😂
when i do mains i always remove 1,4,7 in first section, then 2,3,5,6 in second. also, i have removed 3 last mains once on 6nz, and immediately after the rear main seal let go. hopefully you wont have to drop transmission and clutch just to change rear main.
just watched the ending.
Dawid Marcisz thank
The injector bolts are 3/8" the head is 9/16".
Thanks it was a great video I have a lot of interest in the 3406 Cat engines of course and the new C7 and kind of like the Detroit Diesel inline 6 as they have now that are run right there next to the caterpillar engines the ones I used to have a full just as good and run just as good as a as a cat thanks for the video
That Rocker bridge with the slotted end is so there is no valve stem binding when the rokcer arm pushes on the bridge, if it was to bind you stand the chance of bending the valve stem.
not going to set the gear lash on the cam gear after installing a new head and gasket? its going to be outta wack, this is a older cat with a single cam position sensor, but the newer cats with a cam and a crank position sensor with throw a code if not adjusted correctly
Great series keep them coming.
JIM IS THE REAL BRAINS HERE. WITHOUT HIM KID, YOU ARE GOING BROKE! LOL
Awesome video, I like to see people lubing things up correctly and remembering to put loctite on and not just throw it all together and prey.
"Just paint the fkng head from the factory!" LMAO
the bridge goes that way for expansion of the valve stem ?
As a cat technician
1 that is simply grease so all of the Reman parts don't trust as they get shipped by containers over seas and take a while to be applied
2 u should never pressure wash a assembled cylinderhead as it there will always be water left no matter how well u clean the wire off with will induce rust
+u might damage the rotor coils on the valve assembly and have water in the camshaft galleries
3 it just needs less then a hour and like 0.5l of gasoline to clean all the shmou and shit
To make the thing spark in and out
Good work tho
So you don't break the stem off the valve when the rocker arm comes down
Totally enjoying each and every video.. STAY WITH IT love every minute. Just one question about the install with O rings, in the old days I would use a rocker gauge to make sure I didn't roll an O ring. How do you ensure an O ring didn't roll?
The whole is oblong on the outer valve because when the valves stroke down the clearance between the valves change. With out it the top of the valve would bend and fatigue?
use ky lube on liner seals it eliminates damage from oil to coolan o rings on the liners
That is SO TRUE ABOUT THE CAPS
The blue stuff is exactly what Jim said it was, Rust Preventive. If I remember correctly its 26 Head bolts. I dont think red loctite is necessary on the cam gear bolts. Not a bad idea but we dont do it at the factory. I work in the facility where C9-C18s are built.
CSiev17 oh my god did you work at the plant that the engines are actually build out that's totally awesome I hope I did a good job explaining how to rebuild one and thank you for coming to my channel and watching what I've been doing but I hate that blue shit you got to tell him to stop use that shit and also if you could get me a six in Z out of the plant that would be awesome
You are doing great! When we receive the cylinder heads they are bare with no RP. Unfortunately no luck sneaking stuff out. CAT is very secretive. Its cool for me to see this engine being rebuilt and see how many things have changed on the engine from then to now.
CSiev17 already released I'm doing good and I got it as it builds cats yeah I thought it would be a very interesting thing to show people how much work there really is go into it and I was kind of just joking on getting a whole engine out of cat I didn't think that that could happen but I know there's no hurt in asking
Ha well you are absolutely right! Never know!. The only thing i haven't seen at the plant yet is those new water jacket seals for the head. We still use the black ones.
CSiev17 well that's pretty cool that I can show you some yeah Jim is excited that we got that he said those are a lot better than the black ones
Rocker shafts. See a lot of scored rocker shafts on these engines. If you change one, you might as well change all three.
Yeah great packaging, don't you hate the Blue preservative cleanup.... The fast way is hot pressure wash, immediately followed by compressed air and SPRAY OIL.
C15 cam, now that puppy's HEAVY.
Cool videos man, been watching the Cat rebuild so far. I'm a diesel tech too of about 10 years. Getting ready to overhaul a C13 myself.
Any ways, the blue goo is actually made by a company called ChemTool called Enviro Armor Blue. It's a rust inhibitor meeting a Cat standard for parts that could be in storage for up to 5 years. It's kind of like Cosmoline.
Keep the vids coming!
rexdriver85 that shit suck
never use brake clean for it. it will make it turn green and make it stickier and tougher to remove. dry rags is best method for me.
so on these motors you can get away with torquing the mains to 10 ugu dugguhs with your impact? wouldnt that unevenly set the crank in the journals?
Nick dominic Good question. I would be awful nervous about using any method to tighten rod and main bolts other than what the book says. Especially since I think it specifically says not to use impact wrenches to tighten them.
Yes it does. Besides that if you just use an impact you have no idea how tight those bolts are. Nothing good happens when one of the bolts backs out.
I would liked have seen the outside of the old liners. Many I have pulled have significant cavitation erosion. This is caused by poor cooling system care. Some engines were overhauled because the liners completely eroded causing coolant in the crankcase..
You should delete this video if you need warranty on this engine. How can you install mains with a 3/4 impact.
Shut up dummy
Best reply ever.
Ducati Parts used 3/4 impact on many Detroit’s and Cummins what’s the fuckin difference moving a bolt 180 degrees with an impact and marker vs a torque wrench it’s 180 degrees regardless. Keep it simple stupid.
@@chancependergrass711 unfortunately you sound more like "keep it stupid, simple." Because how are you supposed to know what amount of torque you're going 180 deg from if you never set it with a torque wrench in the first place. This assembly is a dumpster fire and knowing that there are people like you and those in this vid makes me shudder to think how shoddy some people's workmanship is.
Hey Justin I'm liking the rebuild series a lot I also love doing this shit all day at work then on my own time in my own shop to at my farm. But I totally know how you guys feel on the head bolts because on a cat track ag tractor you have to torque a lot of the track bolt to 600 foot pounds when you move the to different widths. Keep up the good work 👍🏻👌
One of the most beautiful videos I've ever seen. But I want some information you can provide me like measuring the connection of the nails in full and what is the liquid that you put on the top nails
enjoy it and like your sense of humor. good job.. love the monster blue beast of a toolbox, jealous
My god what are these guys doing I would never let them work on anything for me
Shaking my head...you checked protrusion after you installed the liner???
How do you do it?
Thanks for sharing Justin god bless bro
Allows movement on at Least 1 side of the rocker arm to prevent wear if they were both perfect circles it would crack the rocker arm causing 1 big fuk up
I would say maybe wrong I don't know
I like the stainless cart.
Excellent video, I'm a rookie mechanic with a question...Why wasn't the Crankshaft polished?
I have a C15 caterpillar, it's got 1,120,000 miles. I'm debating if I'm going to over haul the engine or buy a new engine. What is the advantages of buying one vs the over haul?
If you rebuild it, you know exactly what's in it.
A impact gun is not a torque wrench
That is the reason why it's called
an impact gun🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
Hey bro are you talking about the Trust Bearing that live's on one of the crank main's ? Say Trust Bearing !!! Don't forget those Main cap's have got to go back exactly where they came out of ... No foolin ...Well your certainly on your way , now imagine a few hundred of those and god only knows how many Clutch assembly's and power divider's and so on ....Remember your finger's are your friend's ........
Did you replace the harmonic balancer ?
These videos are awesome man
😎👍🏼 Good Series I'm a Detroit n Cummins Man
are you also replacing the upper main bearing shells
Adrian Esquivel yes we put main bearings in it and then answer your first question how much does it cost like total parts like if you had a buy all brand-new if you had to pay all the court charges and you didn't have anything you're looking at about $45,000
Do you not check injector height on this model engine?
I believe the mains are 450 ft lbs.
190 ftlbs and 120 degree turn on mains.
you have to make sure you get the cosmoline off the bow shafts otherwise she'll tear up the bearing or the sleeves guides whatever you want to call
variance on the long gated it needs room on the up and down? Am I right
william obrien yeah you're on the right track
I just can't figure out how to say it in the right correct away LOL but at least I'm on the right track :-)
Was told by my instructor at cat that it is just there for ease of bridge removal while the rocker arms on and they go wide side towards the cam.
I didn't see you guys check liner protrusion.
what is that blue stuff , Cosmoline ?
So what happened that you needed to rebuild?
Tag k you for showing this!
The blue shit is cosmoline rust preventative
EUI bolts torque loosen and retorque. NEVER reuse these bolts.
Well done so far
Cosmoline, it protects the metal.
Yeah, I would have taken that blue coated cylinder head right down to my local CAT dealer and demanded that they toss it in their automatic parts washer. For the price you pay for their kit which usually includes used parts that meet spec and might not even have been re-worked, they owe you at least that courtesy.
Just out of curiosity, how long did this rebuild last? Hours / miles before it let go?
why didnt you show installing the cam?
Fuck when im alone im hearing someone screaming stroke stroke im thinking its someone in my closet peaking at me or its my conscious
is the elongated side to allow for some play due to vibration?
Justin D maybe for exhaust brake. ?
always use a torque wrench brother cats use a torque turn bolt on just about everything it has to stretch then be turned then retorqued and the head bolts you take em down then torque then turn then release and repeat process but im tahnkful you are helping guys out.
Take a shot every time he says shhhit
Nice video Justin, I think your tools just paid for themselves!
e36m3 Jeff Kennedy yeah they're paying for themselves slowly but definitely worth having all that stuff there
There is a service letter from Cat to not use those red water grommets. They will eventually start leaking.
Ever have trouble with peanut cover bolts???
Throw them away and use regular bolts. Double hard washer each bolt, and use a longer bolt.
Throw them torx bolts away and order the same short bolts that hold down the valve cover base.
Jim smokes like a chimney lol
could the blue stuff be like an assembly lube of some sort?
After watching a few cat engine builds im gonna start calling that blue stuff smurf goo